Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2024 i Gourmet Traveller

Joanna Hunkin Editor Deputy Editor Anna McCooe Creative Director Jacqui Triggs Senior Designer Sam Yates Senior Food Editor Maxwell Adey Words Senior Sub Editor Suzanna Chriss News Editor Jordan Kretchmer Editorial Coordinator Alexandra Harris Digital Digital Managing Editor Sarah McInernay Digital Editor Cordelia Williamson Digital Content Producer Charlotte Wishart Contributors Elliot Baker, Alexandra Carlton, Rushani Epa, Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Matty Hirsch, Kylie Kwong, Tristan Lutze, Samantha Payne, Alley Pascoe, Georgie Meredith, Simon Rickard, Katie Spain, Dani Valent, Max Veenhuyzen. GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000, (02) 9282 8000. The trade mark Gourmet Traveller is the property of Are Media Pty Limited and is used under licence. ©2023 All rights reserved. Printed by IVE, Unit 1/83 Derby St,…

Through the local Redfern community I’ve connected with Elder Aunty Margret, one of the greatest and most highly respected First Nations educators in Australia. Aunty Margret has spent her life generously passing on her ancestral stories and her culture’s ancient wisdom. This life’s work continues with the IYORIA Aboriginal Belonging Estate project, which aims to reconnect First Nations Elders to their lifeblood. I am passionate about supporting Aunty Marget and her colleagues to realise this important vision. When Aunty Margret was a young girl growing up on Dunghutti country on the mid north coast of NSW, she was taught how to build a campfire. It was sitting around one such seasonal fire where she learned about the whales in the sky. Looking up at the stars, she could clearly see…

SHAKE IT UP Spicy conversations, hot openings, a lesson in pairing wine with heat, and how to make a Smoking Camel cocktail. SPOTLIGHT ON Pae Ketumarn, group beverage manager at F*nkytown, Bangkok In Bangkok, we’re witnessing an exciting blend of traditional Thai ingredients in contemporary cocktails. At F*nkytown we have a Som Tum cocktail, featuring fish sauce caramel and dried shrimp. The exploration of savoury flavours has piqued my interest. Cocktails lean towards sweetness, but there’s a growing movement towards savoury herbs, spices and vegetables. Bartenders are experimenting with savoury ingredients to create unique flavour profiles. The most underrated garnish is citrus peel.  The essential oils add depth and aroma to cocktails. Too much of it, and it tastes like you’re sucking on a lemon rind. I’m intrigued by Thai…

Samantha is a sommelier, writer and wine consultant. @sl_payne Spice is the bane of every sommelier’s existence; the ultimate test of our mettle. Because not all spices are created equal. From blazing heat to aromatic, it all alters a wine pairing. My journey through various culinary landscapes has illuminated the multifaceted nature of spice on the palate. These undertakings have taught me that we experience spice in three ways – through texture, flavour and level of heat. Fire engine-red birdseye chillies bring searing heat that will scare off any wine you try to pair with it. On the other hand, aromatic spices tend to present more texturally in the mouth. Think of those pleasant Sichuan mouth tingles that almost hint at sweetness suiting fruitier-style wines and drinks. Then there are…

THE NEW COMER Sydney Warrang QUICK LOOK 180 George St, Sydney, NSW matkim.com.au CHEFS Jacob Lee and Noel Lao OPENING HOURS Dinner Tue-Sun PRICE GUIDE $$$ BOOKINGS Essential VERDICT K-drama Take your spot at one of Matkim’s eight elevated counter seats and you’ll find yourself eye to eye with a fortress of beef, an imposing tower of various raw cuts arranged on a plinth that, along with the roaring ironbark fire behind it, suggests there’s something grandiose on its way. What follows turns out to be far more intricate than the mountain of meat suggests, though no less dramatic. After an invigorating sip of cool tea brewed from perilla leaves (a Korean shiso variety) and spiked with green mandarin juice, your journey begins with a tight disc of cubed raw…

THE CLASSIC Adelaide Tarntanya QUICK LOOK 124B Henley Beach Rd, Torrensville, SA parwana.com.au CHEF Farida Ayubi OPENING HOURS Lunch Thurs-Sun, Dinner Tue-Sun PRICE GUIDE $ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT Trailblazing Afghan hospitality The Ayubi family never set out to be restaurateurs. It was the last thing on Farida and Zelmai Ayubi’s minds when they fled Afghanistan in 1985. After crossing the border into Pakistan, they eventually found refuge in Adelaide (via Melbourne), where they sought comfort in Farida’s ancestral Afghan recipes. The dishes provided a sense of calm and familiarity and since opening neighbourhood restaurant Parwana Afghan Kitchen in 2009, the flavours of their homeland continue to connect them with the community. Everything is made to be shared, from pesh ghezah (small appetisers) to mains. There’s ashak, fried dumplings filled with…

Kale, farro, almond and pomegranate salad with sweet, spiced yoghurt SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS COOLING) A dialled-up yoghurt and punchy dressing make this salad a satisfying delight. Serve as a light meal or as a side dish with grilled meats or roasted vegetables. Make a big batch, keeping the dressing and yoghurt separate. It’s even better the next day. 240 gm (1 cup) roasted farro 200 gm (1 cup) Puy lentils, rinsed, drained 3 cups shredded kale 40 gm (¼ cup) currants 1⁄3 cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted 1 pomegranate, arils removed 1½ cups mixed herbs, chopped (parsley, dill, mint and coriander) 1 small red onion, cut into thin wedges 280 gm (1 cup) Greek-style yoghurt 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tbsp…

Life less ordinary Exploring Mexico City’s food and cocktail scene, onboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, Phuket’s best eating and cool-climate escapes. Anna is a travel and lifestyle journalist, and author of the travel memoir Departures. @annadothart Every lapsed vegetarian can name the dish that vanquished them: mine is Moroccan lamb tagine. Tagine brought me back from the brink of veganism and turned me into a committed omnivore. But this is no simple tale of an adventurous and anaemia-weakened traveller succumbing to temptation in an exotic land. Certainly, tagine is one of the most seductive dishes on the planet. I’m Irish and descended from a proud stew culture, but the addition of cumin, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon and saffron – not to mention dates, apricots and figs – to braised lamb,…

Lumière Lodge, Hobart, Tasmania With stained glass windows, clawfoot baths and roaring fireplaces, you won’t want to step foot outside this Victorian heritage cottage, complete with a fully equipped chef’s kitchen – including induction stove top, steam oven and Thermomix – surrounded by a rambling kitchen garden. Rich, moody interiors pair perfectly with a bottle of East Coast pinot noir (Devil’s Corner Mt Amos is our pick) and a platter of local produce from the Salamanca Market (every Saturday from 8.30am). lumierelodge.com Moss Manor, Moss Vale, NSW Statement fabrics and marble fireplaces bring a modern elegance to this grand Georgian manor in the Southern Highlands town of Moss Vale. Once home to the mayor and his council chambers, the residence now features eight character-filled suites, including the opulent Sophia suite,…

THE INTELLIGENT EDIT Glitter and shimmers are to the beauty routine what spice is to cuisine – expressive, intriguing and set to dazzle. For those who dare, mastering the art of a luxurious lustre can be surprisingly simple. The first step is to ace the base. Lock in all-day glow by prepping the skin with a thick and hydrating moisturiser. This will bring on brightness and smooth the skin for a crease-free application. As always, balance is the watch word and a little goes a long way. Keep it polished by limiting slicks of shimmer to one statement feature (eyes, lip) or metallic hue (copper, gold). For subtle sparkle, opt for cream products with finer flecks such as Hourglass Scattered Light Glitter eyeshadow, $51 (4) or melt a matte into…

Audo Copenhagen salt and pepper bottle ceramic grinders set in Sand, $385 for two, Design Stuff. Graupera tagine in Honey, $150, The Essential Ingredient. Alexander Mills modern pepper mill in Copper, $135, Gewürzhaus. Gary Bodker square oil and vinegar cruet in Rose, $155, Becker Minty. Gary Bodker tall oil and vinegar cruet in Charcoal, $155, Becker Minty. Handy Little Things double spoon, $33, Robert Gordon. Garden To Table salt pig, $34, Robert Gordon. Windsor marble mortar and pestle, $179, Country Road. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING SAM YATES.…

Scan here to subscribe or visit magshop.com.au/GMT I write this month’s missive from the technicolour splendour of the Eastern & Oriental Express as we gently roll our way out of the Malaysian jungle and back towards Singapore. Over the last three days we’ve been on a fabulous spice journey guided by chef André Chiang – and they have been three of the most delicious days of my life (and my life is fairly delicious most of the time!). Given the choice, I will always take a little spice over something plain. Of course, I know better than to smother everything in chilli crisp or sriracha but the temptation is always there (see our favourites in this month’s Five of a Kind on page 27.) Spices have the ability to transport…

OOMAMI THE SLOW BURN EXTRA HOT Rich, red and bitey, this new take on a chilli crisp has a coarse consistency thanks to nubs of almonds and sesame seeds. The original version is more savoury than spicy, while this extra hot edition centres on gochugaru (Korean red chilli peppers) for heat, balanced perfectly with just enough salt and sugar. $19 for 250ml, oomamibondi.com.au GINI MĀYĀ This flashy and fierce chilli oil is underpinned by the scent of curry leaves, alongside garlic and ginger, which gives it a citrusy and pungent edge. The Sri Lankan-style condiment celebrates the bright flavours of the cuisine, offering a unique flavour profile. $15 for 250ml, ginimaya.com.au SIX-EYED SCORPION This Melbourne-based chilli oil ups the ante with solid chunks of garlic and shallots, making it a…

Where did life start for you? I grew up in a small village named Antou in China’s Zhejiang Province, part of Jinhua which has a rich history of more than 1100 years. As a teenager, up until I graduated from high school, I worked as a farmer, which is where I got my first taste of working with the land. What flavours and aromas defined your childhood?  The aroma of fermenting rice wine, either red or white. Most red rice wine is stored in the cellar many years before it is ready to drink. Locals like to drink it warm and have a special vessel to warm the wine on fire. What led you to wine?  My first job was as a university teacher and following that I worked in…

Ras el hanout? In a cocktail? You’d be forgiven for thinking it would border on bizarre. But, it’s the thrill of the unexpected that makes the eponymous drink at The Smoking Camel – Byron Bay’s neon-tinged modern Levantine bar and diner – such a winner. “In the lead-up to opening, the kitchen team were playing with different spice mixes like vadouvan and ras el hanout,” says bar manager Reece Tocker. “We borrowed plenty of these ingredients in the bar during that experimental phase and found that ras el hanout had the perfect blend of savoury flavours and a touch of chilli heat, which marries itself nicely to a cocktail.” That cocktail is essentially a frothy Mezcal Sour, which pits the hero spirit’s smoky profile against the softness of pears and…

V VEGETARIAN GF GLUTEN FREE DF DAIRY FREE Red lentil fritters with green yoghurt V SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS 1 ½ tbsp olive oil ½ onion, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp coarsely crushed coriander seeds 2 tsp coarsely crushed cumin seeds 200 gm (1 cup) red lentils 2 eggs, separated 100 gm self-raising flour Finely grated rind of 1 lemon, plus lemon halves to serve Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying GREEN YOGHURT ½ cup (firmly packed) coriander 1/3 cup (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 long green chilli, coarsely chopped ½ tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp ground cardamom 70 ml olive oil 250 gm thick plain yoghurt Juice of 1 lemon 1 Heat oil in a…

Across the country perceptions of cooking with spice are being challenged. This is owed to a new wave of restaurants uplifting cuisines typically associated with food courts, community gatherings and home cooking. With every new player that joins this movement, Australia’s (fine) dining landscape grows ever more global. Reinterpreting and championing lesser-known cuisines can be a challenge. Just ask Minoli De Silva, owner of Darwin’s modern Sri Lankan eatery, Ella by Minoli. “Sri Lankan food is about more than just adding curry powder to something,” says De Silva. Indeed, the word curry only appears on the Ella menu a handful of times. Instead, eggplant moju (pickle) features in the elawelu (Sinhalese for “vegetables”) section while diners’ punchi (“sides”) options include seasonal chutneys and ultra-flaky gothamba roti. Then there’s the spice-cured…

Flavour trail New-wave Thai recipes, a plentiful Middle Eastern spread, and desserts with a sprinkle of spice. Thai Tide serves regional dishes from all over Thailand, many of them contributed by our staff. They share their family recipes and we develop them in Melbourne, using Australian ingredients and Thai cooking techniques. We are always looking for the balance between pushing boundaries while still ensuring locals find our food tasty and approachable. One of the main differences between having a Thai restaurant in Thailand and one in Australia is the fondness for vegetables. We love herbs and garden produce in Thailand but we don’t see vegetarian dining so much. Sometimes we even surprise ourselves with how good classic Thai dishes can be when we make them plant-based. The Cauliflower Massaman Curry…

It sounds like a riddle my grandfather might have posed: What takes three days and spans decades and continents? The answer, in this case, is a Solaire Journey aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express, which recently resumed service after a four-year hiatus. My grandfather is on my mind as I am transported back in time. He used to ride this train back when it was known as the Silver Star – a luxury sleeper service that ran between Auckland and Wellington in the 1970s. His is just one of thousands of lives and stories tied to this piece of living history, which is now bedecked in the opulence you would expect from the sister of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. It begins the moment you board the platform at Woodlands Station in…

Touring Phuket, we can think of no better guide to the sweet, sour, spicy, salty and bitter delights than Merica Charungvat. Born in Bangkok and finishing high school in Phuket, Charungvat now splits her time between Thailand’s southern tropics and Melbourne, where she owns Thai Tide restaurant (see our recipe feature on page 84). “Phuket keeps drawing me back,” says Charungvat. “As well as being a destination for tourists all over the world, it’s long been a trade port, closer to Penang than Bangkok, and deeply connected to Hokkien foodways and traditions.” Charungvat’s favourite food experiences include old town street snacks, spicy noodles and thoughtful fine dining that celebrates the island’s culinary heritage. SATURDAY LUNCH AT JAMPA Awarded a Michelin Green Star for reducing waste and food miles, Jampa Restaurant…

Wan Chai, Hong Kong While the rate of construction and development taking over parts of Hong Kong is staggering, other pockets remain completely unchanged. Like this street scene in Wan Chai, where I was equal parts delighted and horrified to discover Joe Bananas is still going strong just around the corner. Joanna Hunkin, editor Salumeria Norcino, Sydney, NSW When the only dilemma in your day is trying to decide whether you prefer the cream- or custard-filled maritozzi, it’s a damn good day. This Pyrmont trattoria may specialise in salumi, but its Roman buns make an argument for lingering longer with an espresso post-lunch. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor The White Horse, Sydney, NSW Two bites! Two cracking bites of crisp chicken skin and silky liver mousse is all it takes to…

Fragrance is not a product in Dubai, it’s a culture. From the ouds to the spices, there are scents you’d never heard of in your life, everything is so rich and full of heritage. The thought of never creating another fragrance was one of the worst thoughts for me emotionally. It was making me anxious, not creating. Now I’m back in the market [with new fragrance brand Jo Loves] and at a point in my life where I’m seeing this business grow. Creating fragrance was never just a business or a career. When I create fragrance, I’m the best person I can possibly be. I’m happy, I’m fulfilled. I’m being creative, telling stories of life. And it makes people smile. Everywhere I go I’m looking at ingredients.  I was in…

A Sri Lankan hopper, also known simply as a hopper, is made from a pancake-like batter with fermented rice flour. A specially made hopper pan with two handles and high-round edges is used to create a bowl shape for each hopper. At Kurumba in Sydney, Travin de Hoedt’s family-run restaurant has a devoted hopper bar, where the snacky staple gets made hot and on the spot. “The best way to eat hoppers is fresh off the hopper pan with some sambol and curry. This is how it’s served in Sri Lanka on the streets and we wanted to recreate that at Kurumba,” says De Hoedt. “I love their soft, spongy texture in the middle and the crisp outside and the way they soak up the flavours of the curry and…

People like to put all sorts of lovely adjectives around the idea of growing saffron,” says Gamila MacRury, from saffron farm Gamila at Beechworth in northeast Victoria. “My simple description is this: tedious.” When cultivated in Australia the prized deep red spice – the colour of sunset and fire, according to Hindu lore – sells for around the same price as gold, but it certainly makes those growing it work for their money. “I bought 100 corms [the bulb that produces the saffron crocus] in my first year. I got all these f lowers, which I thought was excellent so I bought 200 corms the next year,” she says. “And then I spent five years with the saffron kicking me in the arse.” Saffron’s finickiness takes many forms. For starters,…

Spice is often the party girl, the loud, bold, exuberant element in the mix,” says food writer Eleanor Ford in her new book A Whisper of Cardamom. “There is also another art, more subtle yet equally seductive. In sweet cookery, spice can provide a delicate fragrance, hard to put your finger on but one that gives backbone to a dish.” Ford lives in London but draws inpiration from her world travels. Described by Yotam Ottolenghi as a “culinary detective”, she gives talks on spice around the globe. For her latest book she explores how spice lends dimension to desserts. She writes, “Flavours can be enhanced by a thoughtful addition from the spice cupboard, making chocolate more chocolaty and fruit taste more of itself. Added not in shouts but in whispers,…

It might occur to you as soon as you pull past the front gates, into the long and gently sloping driveway. Then again, it could sink in once you’ve worked up a sweat in the barrel sauna and gotten lost in the views out over the front paddock. Or perhaps it’ll click later on, after drawing a hot bath and settling into the clawfoot tub. The point is, once you arrive at Leighton House, it won’t take long for you to realise you’ve landed on the paradigm for a winter retreat. Only a 20-minute drive from Launceston, the recently restored homestead occupies some 120 hectares of farmland along the South Esk River, anchored by a three-bedroom Georgian cottage that dates back to 1840. While stately original details – such as…

1 Max Mara March drawstring long-sleeved top, $456, Cettire. 2 Mohair checked scarf, $510, Acne Studios. 3 Dries Van Noten Alpaca-blend sweater, $515, Net-A-Porter. 4 Gentle Monster Rococo-OR2 sunglasses, $437, David Jones. 5 Linear tulip scarf in Fennel, $149, Oroton. 6 Anabela Chan 18-karat yellow gold vermeil Wing sapphire and diamond earrings, $3560, FarFetch. 7 Marni Tropicalia medium raffia tote bag, $890, My Theresa. 8 Twill slouch vest in Umber, $325, Silk Laundry. 9. Polspotten Steps glass vase, $517, FarFetch. DEEP THINKING Rich finishes and diffused lighting shine in this luxurious cavern of bold saffron hues. 1 House of Heras Cinnamon Bloom rug, $5100, Designer Rugs. 2 Glaronisi ceiling pendant, $199, Freedom. 3 Trudon Ernesto candle, $449, Harrolds. 4 Aura lounge chair in Richmond Spice, $1600, King Living. 5 Amphora…