Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2024 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p90 My best friend Olivia is building a house in Greece, on the small island of Poros (not to be confused with the much larger island of Paros, which we visit on page 124). Neither she nor her husband are Greek but, like so many before them, they fell in love with the spot while holidaying there and sailing the Med. Later, they invited their friends to discover the tiny island when they married there in 2018. And when they spied an old shop for sale two years ago, they bought it and embarked on converting it into a beautiful waterfront home, where their friends and family will be warmly welcomed to create more happy Greek memories for years to come. They are certainly not the…

COYO GREEK STYLE COCONUT YOGHURT Bright and acidic while maintaining a distinct rounded and fruity sweetness, this is an excellent dairy-free yoghurt. It uses live vegan cultures and straining to create its thick consistency. $8.50 for 500gm, woolworths.com.au SCHULZ ORGANIC DAIRY NATURAL GREEK YOGHURT With a layer of dense cream on top, this gently pasteurised yoghurt is rich and velvety. Hailing from Timboon, Victoria, the all-rounder is a superb example of local dairy. $6.75 for 500gm, allaboutorganicsonline.com.au MEREDITH DAIRY NATURAL SHEEP MILK YOGHURT Tangy and deeply savoury, this sheep’s milk yoghurt from one of Victoria’s most decorated dairies is ideal for dolloping on top of veggies or using as a marinade for either lamb or chicken. $7.69 for 500gm, harrisfarm.com.au BARAMBAH ORGANICS SWEETENED GREEK YOGHURT A honey-like sweetness is at…

I had the privilege of connecting with contemporary artist Shane Jenek aka Courtney Act, during Sydney WorldPride 2023. Shane is an exceptional creative talent, yet what I am most inspired by is Shane’s staunch advocacy for the queer community. Shane’s thoughts, words and daily actions continue to have a profound and positive impact on the lives of so many young people. Especially those who are still navigating their true path. For me, as someone who was once a young, confused, anxious teenager grappling with her own “queerness”, I certainly know and appreciate how important and comforting Shane’s voice is in our community. The eyelash extensions are off. Contour too. There are no sequins today. And still Shane Jenek’s message sparkles. “If I could advocate for anything it would be empathy,…

THERE FRESH Perth Boorloo QUICK LOOK 2/776 Beaufort St, Mount Lawley, WA threecoins.com.au CHEFS Chris Caravella and Frank Trequattrini OPENING HOURS Dinner Mon-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT A modern classic There is a restaurant in Fremantle called Capri. It turns 70 this year and doesn’t look like it’ll be closing any time soon. Capri is properly iconic and is as famous for its longevity as it is its crowd-pleasing Italian cooking. (Pasta! Fried seafood! Free soup and bread with mains!) Freo is lucky to have it. Threecoins & Sons, while barely six months old, is cut from a similar old-school gingham tablecloth as Capri. Its windows are dressed in lace. Its awning is red and white. Enthusiastic waitstaff uphold the exuberant traditions of Italianate hospitality. Their service style…

Greece’s culinary traditions stretch back millennia. The very word “gastronomy” is of Greek origin, translating to “stomach knowledge”, and you can find references to Greek cheese in Homer’s epic poem, The Odyssey. Given there are thousands of islands in the Greek archipelago, there are subsequently countless local iterations of cheeses that take into account specific climatic, environmental, and cultural elements. But there is also a core line-up of all-star Greek cheeses that you can seek out to imbue your cooking with a distinctly Hellenic flavour. To guide us on our own epic delicatessen adventure, we asked Dimitri Kapernaros for the lowdown on all the Greek cheeses he and his father import into Australia. Together, they run the Lakonia Group, which has been bringing the taste of home to Sydney’s tight-knit…

Philoxenia is the Greek concept of being a friend to a stranger and forms part of the title of Kon Karapanagiotidis and his mother Sia’s cookbook. “I truly believe food humanises us, tearing down walls of predjudice and fear and creating a social scaffolding that allows us to embrace one another,” says the human rights advocate. These recipes are but a small taste of the family favourites compiled in A Seat at My Table: Philoxenia, from which Karapanagiotidis will donate 100 per cent of proceeds to the Asylum Seeker Resource Centre, the charity he founded in Melbourne in 2011. Inspired by the sustainable way his mother goes about the kitchen and his late father’s gardening, Karapanagiotidis’ book also speaks to filotimo, “being a friend of honour”. As Karapanagiotidis explains, “It…

STAY The Shed by Zin is not equipped with WiFi. There’s no TV, and mobile reception is spotty at best. Once the slow, majestic sunset begins over the distant hills, however, you’ll be thankful for the absence of distraction. This self-contained and warmly appointed former artist’s studio occupies a quiet patch of Tinja, the thousand-acre certified organic and biodynamic farm that winemaker David Lowe and chef Kim Currie are lucky enough to call home. Kitted out with a kitchenette, free-standing fireplace, barbecue and outdoor fire pit, it’s an ideal weekend hideaway for a solo traveller or couple, perhaps with a four-legged friend in tow. Warm touches like estate wines and olive oil sweeten the deal, along with freshly squeezed juice and sourdough from Althea by Zin, the couple’s bakery in…

Resort mode Vacation dressing, breezy interiors, summer beauty, and GT-approved coloured glassware. 1 Kenzo Nautical Stripes cropped cardigan, $652, Farfetch. 2 Large utility tote in Washed Yellow, $625, Haulier. 3 Contrast Trim Smock dress, $549, Oroton. 4 B-I sunglasses, $1328, Balmain. 5 Alight Tuck shorts, $395, Zimmermann. 6 Multi-Loop Anchor ring, $450, JW Anderson. 7 Dahlia Collectable saddle bag, $749, Oroton. 8 Granville espadrille, $1200, Dior. OPPOSITE Regatta Ring lilo, $1200, Oliver James Lilos. HOME INSPIRATION ♥ MARINE CORE So calming it’s almost a neutral – why kitchens are entering their blue period. 1 Nemo Applique de Marseille wall light, $1250, Cult Design. 2 Interior wall paint in Ol’ Blue Eyes, from $59 per litre, Tint Paint. 3 Oliveri Vilo Pull Out mixer in Brushed Gold, $1199, Harvey Norman. 4…

Mornington Peninsula, Vic A thrill-seeking drive from Mornington to Flinders via Arthurs Seat put the new Porsche Cayenne to the test while showcasing some of Victoria’s best views. Lunch by Scott Pickett’s team from Audrey’s was the cherry on top. Joanna Hunkin, editor Caravin, Sydney Salty, snacky good times are dished out in droves at this vibey streetside wine bar. Add in Potts Point people-watching, excellent bubbles and don’t-want-to-leave service, and it’s easy to enjoy its charm and simplicity. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor Wa Gyuto, Sydney Always order the nasu dengaku. The miso eggplant dish is my yardstick for distinguishing alright Japanese spots from the must-revisit gems. And this smoky, nutty-sweet nasu showered in shallots and sesame at Clovelly’s ever-bustling Wa Gyuto delivered. Cordelia Williamson, digital editor Kōst, Gold Coast…

Comfort food means something different to different people. Deep Blue Sea [the movie] was my first big project away from home, in Rosarito Beach in Mexico. And we were filming on this massive vacant lot in Mesa Rosatiro. They hadn’t built any studios there yet so we were working and living in a bunch of trailers. The biggest trailer was converted into a massive mess hall, where an amazing team of chefs were churning out masses of the most beautiful food I’d ever seen – ruby red lobsters on piles of ice, mounds of fresh fruit and gorgeous vegetables. But all I wanted was a cup of steamed rice and soy sauce. Comfort food. That was what my mum used to give me as a snack. It was cold and…

Dining out This month, we visit a Greek taverna in Collingwood, a royal Sydney newcomer, an old pub in the Sunshine Coast, and an Italian neighbourhood joint in Perth. THE NEWCOMER Sydney Warrang QUICK LOOK 171 Clarence St, Sydney, NSW bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au/kingclarence CHEFS Khanh Nguyen and Brent Savage OPENING HOURS Lunch and dinner daily PRICE GUIDE $$$ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT Royally fun When Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt open something new, people rock up. Simple as that. Never mind if it’s December, the pinnacle of party season. Or that we’re faced with an ongoing staff shortage. On opening night at King Clarence, the sixth addition to the restaurateurs’ esteemed stable, none of this seems to matter. Fresh off a fully booked lunch service, the 100-seater is somehow still fizzing with energy…

Samantha is a sommelier, writer and wine consultant. @sl_payne As someone who is ensconced in Australian wine, I rarely get to “deep dive” into foreign regions. So, with a fresh notebook, a bowl of olives (great for the theme and also for neutralising tannin on the palate), and an open mind, I tried more than 30 different styles crafted from native grape varieties across Greece. Through this process, I realised that Greek and Australian wines maybe aren’t so different after all. Greek wine has undergone many of the same teething issues that young wine regions experience. It’s not too long ago that Australian wines were also known to be concerningly big, bold, massively over-oaked and high in alcohol. Unsurprisingly, from the country that layed the foundations for science, Greek winemakers…

V VEGETARIAN GF GLUTEN FREE DF DAIRY FREE ORIGINS Fatteh is a Levantine dish that features pieces of grilled, seasoned flatbread covered with other ingredients that vary according to region. PRODUCE TIP When buying garfish, look for fish that have shiny, silvery skin, free from any discolouration. The scales should be intact, not falling off, and the fish should have clear, bright eyes that are not cloudy. KRITHARAKI ME KEFTEDES GLUTEN FRIENDLY Replace white bread with gluten-free bread and swap out orzo for long-grain rice to make a gluten-free version of this dish. PAPOUTSAKIA ORIGINS Papoutsakia (stuffed eggplant) translates as “little shoes” and epitomises the big-flavoured goodness of Greek home cooking. SKORDOMAKARONADA ORIGINS Pasta is not limited to Italian cuisine with kofto makaronaki (small tubes) and kritharaki (orzo) being popular…

On the surface, it seems like business as usual with George Calombaris. The chef’s trademark Tigger-like enthusiasm is on full display as he gives me the tour of his latest venture, The Hellenic House Project, a former chicken shop turned dual-level diner in sleepy, suburban Highett, in Melbourne’s south-east. His speech is liberally seasoned with the awesomes, amazings, and wonderfuls familiar to anyone who watched his decade on hit TV series MasterChef Australia. The Hellenic House Project feels familiar too, and not only because of the name. Downstairs is The Kitchen, a modern take on a trad souvlaki shop that nods to his former business Jimmy Grants. Upstairs, a leafy terrace leads to a relaxed and breezy restaurant called The Good Room. Here the excellent Greek-accented menu displays creativity and…

With its striking blue-and-white contrasts and landscapes that vary from coast to country to ancient architecture, Greece is a photographer’s dream. But how do you translate what you’re seeing into professional-looking holiday photography, without lugging around a ton of equipment or getting a master’s degree in fine arts? You learn some simple tricks and tips. Here, Gourmet Traveller photographers Taryn Peck and Elise Hassey share advice on shooting all of Greece’s beauty – from the Aegean to Athens – which can easily be applied to wherever you may be heading next. FILTERS AND EDITING Both Peck and Hassey use professional editing software: Hassey likes Adobe Lightroom with a few extra tweaks in Photoshop, while Peck likes Lightroom and Capture One. However, both photographers say that smartphones have a few neat…

It’s the first week of October and it’s a balmy 26 degrees in Naoussa, a small fishing village on the Cycladic island of Paros. An air of peacefulness pervades the whole island. The boutiques are uncrowded, the streets empty and there’s never a line for the best loungers at Piperi beach. You can get a table at any of the Naoussa hotspots – including the buzzy seafood restaurant Barbarossa, wine bar Yemeni or Sigi Ikthios, famous for its trademark fiery prawn saganaki – without waiting. Paros is one of the most accessible Greek islands: a small airport links the hotspot via daily flights to Athens and the fast ferry from Mykonos will get you poolside at Naoussa hotel Avant Mar with a tequila cocktail and a dish of taramasalata in…

My city is not an easy city. A historic meeting (or collision) between the Middle East and Europe, Athens is chaotic, hot and frenetic. A soundscape of motorbikes, market sellers and characterful locals is what I wake to every morning but then again, so are the blue skies, warm spanakopita and lush bitter orange trees that line most pavements. Usually reserved merely as a stopping off point between the mainland and the islands by those seeking the white-washed, blue-shuttered houses of Instagram, Athens has only recently been getting the love and recognition it so deserves. Yes, people have travelled to the city to visit its Ancient Wonders (the majestic Parthenon, its ancient Agora) for centuries. Lord Byron and Henry Miller were fans but the Athens of the 21st century has…

Clockwise from left: Ichendorf Milano pink and amber cocktail glass, $60, Daily Food. Arlo HiBall tumblers in Indigo, $59.95 for four, Ecology. Tom Dixon Tank wine glasses in Black, $245 for two, Ecology. Elegance Champagne classic flute, $189 for two, Waterford. Fatto A Mano Champagne wine glasses, $750 for six, Riedel. Ichendorf Milano cocktail glass in Pink, $39, Daily Food. Cote d’Or Murano Champagne glass in Pistachio, $330 for two, Fairfax & Roberts. Mykonos stripe vino glass, $59 for two, Kip & Co. Camille tumblers in Marine, $69.95 for four, Ecology. Mykonos blue tumblers, $29 for four, No.22. Palmier wine glasses in Green, $149 for two, Maison Balzac. 1815 Wine in Blue, $139 for four, Royal Doulton. PHOTOGRAPHY KRIISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HOLLY DORAN.…

BEGIN AGAIN Restaurant openings for your radar, 2024 food festivals, Lunar New Year dining and a new beach club destination. THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND AUSTRALIA RESTAURANT NEWS SYDNEY Balmain is proud to welcome back The Dry Dock, following a full-scale renovation, making a solid argument for the waterside suburb to reclaim its Sydney pub capital title. Formally known as The Dry Dock Public House & Dining Room, the 330-capacity venue hits a variety of moods. These start with the classic (dog-friendly) public bar and extending to the lounge bar with wood-burning fireplace and, of course, the dining room. Here, Euro fare and a devoted oyster bar reimagine pub schtick for the 2024 diner. From a Josper charcoal grill and wood-fired oven, order a Barnsley lamb chop with…

Zucchini are so fast growing, and so bountiful, that we almost resent them for it. These plants swamp us with their generosity. Tender baby zucchini can morph into inedible baseball bats practically overnight, leaving us wondering how to cope with the glut. Buckets of oversize zucchini left on neighbours’ doorsteps are not always received as gratefully as we might hope. Yet the zucchini and its relatives have a fascinating history, and are versatile in the kitchen. Zucchini belong to a group of plants collectively termed “summer squash”. Summer squash are among the oldest of all domesticated plants. The earliest evidence for them dates from around 10,000 years ago, in the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Within a few thousand years, summer squash were being grown almost as far north as the…

THIRST TRAP Cocktail conversations, a new era of Greek wine, fresh releases, and how to make the signature drink at Yiamas, Perth. SPOTLIGHT ON Jai Lyons, bar manager, Smoke, Barangaroo House, Sydney I grew up in North Rocks in Sydney but I was living in England playing football when I decided it wasn’t for me and got a job in a bar. I fell in love with the social aspect – creating a drink that can positively influence a stranger’s day. The key driver behind the drinks menu at Smoke is produce first. We want to give guests a familiar flavour but combined in a way they haven’t experienced before. Surprise and delight. Smoke also leads the way with its low-waste approach. Creativity is a personal journey. I think the…

Cocktail names don’t get much more graphic than the Corpse Reviver No. 2, a notorious classic from Harry Craddock’s legendary 1930 publication, The Savoy Cocktail Book. The absinthe-accented, equal-parts blend of gin, triple sec, Lillet Blanc and lemon juice has long been a staple for sore heads looking to bounce back from a big night, but had a renaissance in 2007 thanks to Kiwi barman Jacob Briars. His tweak, dubbed the Corpse Reviver No. Blue, famously swaps triple sec for the far more colourful blue curaçao and also forms the basis for the George’s Reviver No. 2 – a house favourite at Perth’s modern Greek taverna of the moment, Yiamas. “The overall concept of the opening drinks list was to sort of wrap a Greek flag around a book full…

With ancient origins in the Hellenistic period, dolmades (also known as dolma, which is the Turkish word for stuffed) are enjoyed across Greece and Turkey and in Levantine cusine. With regional and seasonal variations, they can be served as a snack or as a part of a larger meze spread. SERVING SUGGESTION Dolmades can be prepared in advance but are best served warm. You can swap out minced lamb with minced chicken, beef or pork. PHOTOGRAPHY STEVE BROWN. STYLING BHAVANI KONINGS. RECIPE DOMINIC SMITH.…

I believe the best expression of Greek cuisine comes from the home,” says Stavros Konis, co-owner of Melbourne CBD pop-up Kafeneion with his wife Alex and restaurateur Con Christopoulos (City Wine Shop, The European, Kirk’s Wine Bar). “And that is what we are doing here: translating recipes from my family and Con’s family,” Konis adds. “You won’t find any of the food we serve in books. None of these recipes were written down before; we had to watch our mums make these dishes and then write them down ourselves and then train our chefs – who are all very qualified – to get back to basics.” Kafeneion was conceived as a pop-up, meant to last just a few months. Perhaps because of its temporary status and certainly because the food…

The best taverna in Crete has been built on a rocky outcrop where the Aradena Gorge spills out to the Mediterranean. The arid cliffs stand sentinel over a glassy aquamarine bay. Each morning the sun chairs are laid out on Marmara’s pebble beach, slowly filling as hikers make their way out of the gorge; their swim to be chased by one of the best lunches on the island. There are only two ways into this gustatory paradise: by boat or by foot. Crete is an island that rewards the hiker, with trails that zigzag all over. At 240 kilometres from east to west, it’s the largest island in Greece and the fifth largest in the Mediterranean, taking in fertile valleys and deep gorges along with a considerable mountain range in…

1 Dark vanilla and wood come to life in sultry evening air. Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder Eau de Parfum, $279, Libertine Parfumerie. 2 Made for rooftop bars and city nights. Maison Francis Kurkdjian 724 Hair Mist, $120, Mecca. 3 The next big cult fragrance featuring florals, citrus, suede and overtures of mystery. Byredo Animalique Eau de Parfum, $377, Mecca. 4 Trails of jasmine, plucked from Italy’s Medici Gardens. Santa Maria Novella Gelsomino Eau de Parfum, $285, Santa Maria Novella. 5 A citrus burst to transport you to a sun-drenched island in Greece. Maison Margiela Under The Lemon Tree Eau de Parfum, $215, Mecca. 6 Orange blossom meets lemon in a Mediterranean fever dream. Le Labo Fleur D’Oranger Eau de Parfum, $345, Le Labo Fragrances. 7 Radiance in a bottle. Tiffany…