Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2024 i Gourmet Traveller

+ SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p78 Editor’s letter It’s somewhat ironic that I write this letter – introducing you to our Australian summer issue – as I sit aboard a flight to Aotearoa New Zealand. But there’s nothing like time away from Australia to remind you just how unique this country is. As a New Zealander, I thought I knew a fair bit about Australia before I moved here four years ago. It didn’t take me long to realise how much I had to learn; how much there was to explore. One of the great privileges of my role is I get to travel quite a bit and have been lucky enough to experience first-hand just how diverse each and every region is. Of course, there’s still plenty more to…

COFFEE SUPREME LONG BLACK Crisp and rich, this vibrant long black is cold brewed to bring out subtle sweet notes. In the evening it could be poured over ice-cream and liqueur for a cool take on an affogato. $22 for 4 x 240ml, coffeesupreme.com INDUSTRY BEANS COLD BREW SPARKLING Bold and curiously bubbling may sound off-putting at first, but as summer peaks this carbonated cold brew delivers the goods. Hints of red cherry balance the smooth but full-flavoured sip. $19 for 4 x 250ml cans, industrybeans.com ALLPRESS ESPRESSO LATTE ICED This dairy option tastes similar to one of the most popular international cold coffee offerings. Creamy, sweet and punchy, the Allpress latte is best enjoyed shaken vigorously with ice and served chilled. $5 for 240ml, allpressespresso.com SINGLE O ICED LATTE…

Advocate Grace Tame has sparked a revolution as one of this nation’s most influential voices for positive change who continuously puts her heart and soul right out there. As she says, with the intention of supporting other sexual assault victim-survivors, “when we share we heal”. I am in awe of the way Grace skilfully and courageously harnesses the intense emotions of rage and anger within herself, channelling them into constructive, definite outcomes for all. A true changemaker and powerful force for good in our community. Grace Tame – powerhouse, changemaker – is on the call. Unrelenting advocate who fought to remove the word “relationship” from child sexual abuse laws across Australia (Northern Territory becoming the final jurisdiction in July 2023). Best-selling author. Foundation CEO. Steely campaigner who took on the…

THE NEW COMER Perth Boorloo QUICK LOOK 41 Market St, Fremantle, WA eatlolas.au CHEFS Drew Dawson & Harry Peasnell OPENING HOURS Dinner Wed-Mon; Lunch Sat-Sun PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT A perfect slice Italian food purists, please sit down. We’re about to have a difficult conversation. Like all eaters, I am grateful for the precious gift of pizza that la cucina vera has given the world. But while pizza might have been born Italian, it is now a global citizen. American pizza? A lexicon of diverse regional styles. One of the planet’s best Naples-style pizza is no longer in Campania but resides in Tokyo, while banana curry pizze are a thing in Sweden. And then there’s Australian pizza culture complete with its Super-Supremes, end-of-year wind-ups and delivery drivers named…

MELBOURNE Ho Jiak, CBD Sydney chef Junda Khoo (pictured) will bring his clever take on Malaysian flavours to Melbourne later in 2024. Landing a three-level site on Bourke Street with an entrance on Royal Lane, Ho Jiak Melbourne will offer a different menu for each floor. “So, it’s like having three different Ho Jiak concepts under one roof,” says Khoo. On the ground floor, the kitchen will power the whole venue, with plans for a kiosk to the side for takeaway and alfresco dining on Royal Lane. The menu here will call on a street food concept as an homage to the original Ho Jiak in Sydney’s Strathfield. “Stuff like nasi lemak, Hainan chicken rice, and a bain marie with different dishes, similar to the ‘chap fan’ stores on the…

French chef Guillaume Zika earned his stripes cooking in some of the most acclaimed restaurants in France; working the pans at Paris icons including Le Grand Véfour and Relais Louis XIII. But where some chefs spend their careers working up to Michelin-starred kitchens, Zika has spent his trying to get away from them – first moving to Bali, before making the Gold Coast his home. These days, you’ll find him at The Burleigh Pavillion, where he is executive chef across The Pav – as locals call it – and The Tropic, where these cool, coastal recipes come from. “Before the Covid lockdowns, we were trying hard to be trendy, and in doing so, we were making the menu unnecessarily complicated,” laughs Zika. “Who wants to eat fancy foams or mousses…

1 Edie bio acetate sunglasses in Chalk, $470, Mulberry. 2 Johanna Ortiz printed rashguard swimsuit, $609, My Theresa. 3 DiorClub V1U perspex and cotton-blend jacquard visor, $910, Net-A-Porter. 4 Poppler rashguard top in Volcano, $180, Abysse. 5 Paloma sun hat, $149, Lack of Color. 6 Dolce & Gabbana Portofino printed cotton minidress, $2400, My Theresa. 7 Gucci oversized sunglasses in Yellow, $780, Sunglass Hut. 8 Le Bas sun hat in Playa Minizo, $104, Faithfull The Brand. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS.…

Banh Cuon Ba Oanh, Sydney, NSW Dunk silky-yet-toothsome folds of rice noodles into a heady sweet-salty broth. Then pair them with a bite of pickled carrot, a bright mint leaf and an array of pork; perhaps a slice of firm buttery cha lua or a smoky grilled strip. A Sydney must-do. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor Akkee, Nonthaburi, Thailand I’ve been visiting Thailand for years, and my go-to restaurant is situated 35 minutes north of Bangkok. On my recent trip this miang featured mangosteen with roasted coconut, torch ginger, peanuts, dried shrimp and herbs. It’s a one-bite explosion of sweet, sour and salty. Elliot Baker, contributor Coffin Bay, South Australia Consuming fresh oysters while semi-submerged in the ocean never gets old. Don a pair of waders and ready yourself for shucking…

When I started playing bass in a garage band with Ben Gillies and Daniel Johns, my mum and dad didn’t even have passports. We lived in the beachside Newcastle suburb of Merewether and my family’s idea of going on an exotic holiday was a trip to the Gold Coast. I was 14 when Silverchair – the band that started in Ben’s garage and took off with the single Tomorrow – signed with the Sony record label arm, Murmur. Our (eventual) manager John “Watto” Watson told us all to get passports. We were going to need them. At 15, we headed overseas to do our first American shows in June 1995. I remember we had to ask for time off school to do the gigs in Atlanta, Chicago and Detroit. On…

QUICK LOOK On the beach, Moore Rd, Freshwater, NSW pilu.com.au CHEFS Giovanni Pilu & Federico Porceddu OPENING HOURS Lunch Wed-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$$ BOOKINGS Essential VERDICT Ageing gracefully THE CLASSIC Freshwater Warrang So much has been written about the suckling pig at Pilu that it almost doesn’t bear repeating. Then, out it comes: a brick of meat practically waxy with richness, capped by a swarthy sheet of salty crackling that takes some muscle to puncture. It’s a signature dish still wholly deserving of its place on the refreshingly short and straightforward menu, one it has occupied for all of the restaurant’s staggering 20-year lifespan. You could say that signatures have become something of a signature inside this stately weatherboard house. Those impeccably crimped and supple pasta pockets known…

V VEGETARIAN GF GLUTEN FREE DF DAIRY FREE PRODUCE TIP Choose ripe, flavourful heirloom varieties or Roma tomatoes, but any ripe, fresh tomatoes will do. Pat tomato slices with paper towel to remove excess moisture. ORIGINS Tempeh (or tempe) is cultured cooked soy beans, sold in blocks. Originating in Indonesia, tempeh has a nutty flavour and is a great source of protein. MIX IT UP You can swap salmon for other firm fish such as ocean trout or blue-eye trevalla. SPEED IT UP Fresh broad beans are delicious but require double podding – to speed up this recipe use frozen broad beans instead. FLAVOUR TIP If time permits, season steak liberally with fine salt and stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before cooking. MIX IT UP Swap…

We’ve all been there: walked into bookshops and purchased a giant stack of novels, only to have them join the last giant stack of books that were bought and not read. They collect on the bedside table, threatening to fall on you like an avalanche in your sleep. You might make it through a few of them, but the pile remains mostly untouched. Life always gets in the way. You swear to yourself that you’ll read the rest of them when you take some time off. That time finally rolls around and you pack an enthusiastic stack to tackle over the holidays but there’s one problem: you’re not feeling it. Somehow that internationally best-selling crime novel doesn’t feel appropriate on Bondi Beach. That scathingly hilarious memoir is not grabbing you…

Food is forever changing,” says author and television presenter Adam Liaw in his new book 7 Days of Dinner. “The food that you eat today is probably very different from the food you grew up eating.” Liaw believes the way we cook, the ingredients available and the influences around us are constantly in flux, evolving along with our understanding of nutrition, and the food system around us. And where dinner can sometimes feel like it gets in the way of a busy schedule – “just another problem to solve” – Liaw sees evening cooking as more of a solution. “Yes, preparing it is one more task to add to an increasingly crowded schedule, but completing that task well does so much to help us with all the other problems we…

When Larry Gurruwiwi plays the didgeridoo, he means it. In Gurruwiwi’s hands, the didgeridoo – or, to use its traditional name, the yidaki – morphs, shapeshifts and seems to sing in a dozen different languages. One moment, it bubbles and swirls like a saxophone. The next, the ancient instrument buzzes like a high-tech synthesiser. I’m tempted to write that Gurruwiwi plays the yidaki like his life depends on it (which, in a way is true: he plays the instrument professionally and, together with his band Malawurr, has performed across Europe, Asia and Australia.) But today, as Gurruwiwi plays for a tiny audience on remote East Woody Beach, the stakes are much higher than that. Gurruwiwi is playing the yidaki for his Country. He’s playing the yidaki for his culture. He’s…

A good cellar door tells you a story of the people who made the wine, in the same way that a good wine tells you a story of the place it was made in. That’s my takeaway from almost a decade working as a wine consultant and travelling sommelier with no fixed restaurant address. Experience counts. Cellar doors can be spectacles for the senses, such as the striking d’Arenberg Cube in the McLaren Vale. While some are architectural feats that enthral in the vein of Marqués de Riscal in Rioja – one of Frank Gehry avant-garde monuments – others are more traditional and humble, letting the wines and vines do all the talking. In fact, some of my favourite drinking experiences have been in tin sheds as old as the…

HOME INSPIRATION 1 Yaamur metal hanging planter in Guava, $69, Saardé. 2 Lennox shower, $2420, Brooklyn Copper Co. 3 AYTM Globe small watering can in Gold, $176, Finnish Design Shop. 4 Angolo floor lamp, $2990, Fanuli. 5 The Amalfi umbrella in Rivie Pink, $250, Business & Pleasure Co. 6 Kun Design pillow sunlounger, $3050, Domo. 7 Cabana weave two-seater right sofa plus chaise, $9945, Globe West. 8 Castellain travertine platter, $119, No.22. 9 Kartell HiRay armchair in Rust, $830, Space Furniture. 10 Mila ribbed crystal glass carafe, $30, Pillow Talk. 11 Granada Hourglass side table in Brique, $715, Globe West. 12 Petra curve coffee table in Ivory, $1430, Globe West. 13 Esperance rug in Sand, $5817, King Living. PHOTOGRAPHY GLOBE WEST.…

1 ISLE OF PARADISE SELF-TANNING WATER Gloop no more, new generation waters have tanning on refresh. The clear mists hydrate as they tan without transferring onto clothes or sheets. This one also colour-corrects to neutralise redness. $43, mecca.com.au 2 SISLEY SELF TANNING HYDRATING FACIAL SKIN CARE The facialist’s favourite, this self-tanner delivers a burst of moisture to the complexion as the sun-kissed colour develops. $190, sisley-paris.com/en-AU 3 LUNA BRONZE TOTAL ECLIPSE EXPRESS TANNING MOUSSE Self-tanning at home is a high-stakes game (though not as risky as sunbaking). This coloured mousse adds a level of control. Apply with a mitt to clean, exfoliated dry skin and leave for one to three hours for gleaming results. $44.95, mecca.com.au 4 LUST MINERALS CLEAN SELF TANNING MOUSSE The bronzing agent in most self-tanners is…

1 Sun protection with a skincare bonus. Dawn to Dusk SPF 50+ Serum, $64.95, Alpha-H. 2 Whipped to perfection. To Save Body SPF30 Radiant Sun Mousse, $42, Mecca. 3 A burst of hydration after a day in the sun. After Sun Mist, $25, Bondi Wash. 4 Ultra sheer and reef friendly. Superstar Facial SPF 50+ Daily Sunscreen, $55, Liberty Belle. 5 Formulated to sit under makeup. Ultra Violette Supreme Screen SPF 50+ (Limited Edition), $72, Sephora. 6 SPF that sits on the skin like a primer. Mineral Mousse SPF50+ Dreamscreen, $49, Airyday. 7 Protection for reactive skin. Sensitive Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50+, $32.95, We Are Feel Good Inc. 8 So hydrating you can skip your moisturiser. UV Defence Daily Lotion SPF 50+, $55, Jurlique. Antibes Turkish beach towel, $79, Saardé.…

THE REFRESH Brisbane Meanjin QUICK LOOK 4/15 James St, Fortitude Valley, Qld gerards.com.au CHEF Jimmy Richardson OPENING HOURS Lunch Fri-Sat; Dinner Mon-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$$ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT New thinking at an old favourite There’s a raw kingfish dish on the menu at Gerard’s, but it’s unlike the dozens of others you’ve seen. Firm slices of fish are draped around semi-dried, chopped eggplant, based on an Egyptian dish called mesa’a’ah, and around the outside is a garlicky yoghurt sauce. It’s kingfish crudo, but not as you know it and a scene-setter for Gerard's new epoch. Recently reopening after a five-month renovation, the James Street mainstay has been bolstered by the hiring of executive chef Jimmy Richardson. Previously head chef under Adam Wolfers, Richardson left to pursue an executive chef role…

Few restaurants evoke the essence of Australian summer like Nu Nu in Palm Cove, which celebrates its 20th birthday this year. Pull up a seat metres from the Coral Sea, between reef and rainforest, and you’re instantly put into Tropical North Queensland’s holiday mood. While owner-chef Nick Holloway’s hyper-seasonal cooking has always been the drawcard, a cocktail under the palms is just as integral to the experience. “Our cocktails draw inspiration from tropical regions around the world,” says sommelier Hayley Wano. “We love to showcase local ingredients from Rusty’s Markets, just like Nick does in the kitchen.” Pineapples are a constant, and can often be found ripening along the venue’s wall. Here, Cuba’s signature Highball is very much its own thing – free of soda water, full of gingery kick…

With origins in ancient Persia (“sorbet” is derived from the Arabic “sharbat”, a fruitbased drink) this sweet treat eventually made its way to France and Italy. The key to fruit sorbet is to capture the essence of the fruit, by choosing ones that are ripe and fragrant. Balancing the quantities of sugar and water is essential: if there’s too much sugar, the sorbet will be too soft and sweet; too much water and it will freeze solid. This recipe ensures the correct density of sugar syrup and purée, ready to churn, freeze, scoop and serve. WHAT’S YOUR FLAVOUR? When it comes to flavour combinations, keep it simple and look to classic desserts for inspiration. Peaches and apricots work well with vanilla, while honeydew melon and pineapple are perfect with lemon…

You beauty Recipes to celebrate summer in Australia, beach eats from The Tropic at Burleigh Heads, Adam Liaw’s best weeknight meals and the dishes Danielle Alvarez cooks at home. GLOSSARY Bush tomato – an earthy native nightshade Finger lime, fresh or freeze-dried – tart with caviar-like pulp Karkalla – a green succulent with crunch Lemon aspen, freeze-dried – similar in flavour to lemon or grapefruit. Substitute lemon rind Lemon myrtle, ground – exhibits a strong citrus flavour Pepperleaf, ground – a mild, peppery flavour. Substitute black pepper. Saltbush – mild, salty, herbal leaf Samphire – crisp and salty with a texture similar to baby asparagus Sea blite – salty with a slight crunch Strawberry gum – a herbal and fruity leaf used to enhance flavour Warrigal greens – mild in…

At home, all I really care about is how delicious something is. If the goal of eating out is to indulge in something you can’t have at home, shouldn’t eating at home be a celebration of the dishes that are their very best there.” And so it is Danielle Alvarez is trading her chef whites for civvies giving us her homecooking almanac, Recipes for a Lifetime of Beautiful Cooking. “This collection of recipes is designed to offer flavours and textures that are easier to achieve at home than in a restaurant, to be enjoyed at your table with the people you care about most.” Alvarez, currently a top consulting chef, made her name at Sydney’s Fred’s. She loves French, Italian and Asian food and cuisine from her Cuban roots. With…

I’m sipping steaming coffee in the soft unfurling of the day’s first rays, barefoot and tousle-haired on the sundeck of the True North II. We’re slicing across the pure, mirrored surface of an endless blue, diamonds of dancing light chasing us on the water as we disappear between majestic ridges of glowing Kimberley rock into this vast and true wilderness. If there’s such a thing as peak Australia, it might lie here, within this 1.8-billion-year-old landscape: this rugged testament to the massive, ancient collision and rearrangement of rock, the groaning grandeur of giant building blocks locked at improbable angles along the coastline a reminder of the massive tectonic power that lies beneath us all. This wild place, full of wild things: deadly saltwater crocs, mesmeric manta rays, sharks, turtles, bottlenose…

1 Moooi Meshmatics chandelier, $4610, Space Furniture. 2 Coast Hinterland stool, $2200, Daniel Boddam. 3 Coast Oscar high cabinet in Natural Oak, POA, Daniel Boddam. 4 Ligne Roset Verone vase in Green, $475, Domo. 5 Flexform Perry Up sofa, $15,490, Fanuli. 6 Ligne Roset Bookends Tore, $225 Domo. 7 Malawi rug in Saffron, from $1770, Armadillo. 8 Dorik dining table, POA, Criteria Collection. 9 Oil burner, $220, Christopher Boots x Salus. 10 Cutipol Goa salad set, $98, Mud Australia. 11 Maxalto Caratos low chair, POA, Space Furniture. HOME INSPIRATION PHOTOGRAPHY PABLO VEIGA. STYLING ATELIER LAB.…