Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2023 i Gourmet Traveller

October is perhaps the most surreal time of year to work in magazines, when it’s easy to lose track of the seasons and the real world outside. As I write this letter, daylight saving has yet to begin and there is still a crisp chill in the air. And yet next door, my team is testing January recipes and calling in products for the Christmas gift guide. In our world, 2023 is almost over – even as spring produce is only starting to come into season. The nature of this strange, fast-forward world we operate in means we can often forget to stop and smell the white asparagus – or new season mangoes. There was once a time when Rodney Dunn was part of this mad world of ours, working…

It’s the taste of chewing gum, toothpaste, mouthwash, and trips to the dentist. Mint’s sweet aroma and cool aftertaste epitomises freshness and cleanliness. However, the use of mint pre-dates chewing gum by thousands of years, dating back to at least the Greeks and Romans. Most early references to mint discuss it in medical terms. Mint is credited with curing everything from sore eyes to sleeplessness. Nicholas Culpeper asserts that it is “singularly good” for 49 ailments in his 1653 work, Complete Herbal. John Gerard noted in his Herball of 1597 that “it is applied with salt to the biting of mad dogs” (i.e. rabies – good luck with that), and that “the smell rejoiceth the heart of man”, a sentiment most of us can get on board with. Although the…

Sydney, NSW QUICK LOOK 5 Kensington St, Chippendale, NSW longshore.com.au/ CHEF Jarrod Walsh OPENING HOURS Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Mon, Thu-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$$ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT An inner-city coastal cruise Lisbon, Tokyo, Palermo, Boston; by name alone these cities conjure fresh seafood, plucked from the ocean and prepared shoreside by both generational merchants and top chefs. Sydney too has become synonymous with the seafood scene, buoyed by the ever-growing Niland empire, the pioneering work of Doyle, Hodges and Susman, and the wealth of aquatic produce from our coastline. Longshore tips the fishy scales in our favour, filling the Chippendale space in which Automata sat with a lively pescatarian experience that combines accomplished cooking with fun. Executive chef Jarrod Walsh’s snacky numbers avoid kingfish sashimi clichés in favour of hefty mussels…

ARTISTIC PURSUITS Debating the art of wine, in conversation with Scotland’s first female whisky master, Ned Goodwin’s Top Drops, and how to make a Hanky Panky. SPOTLIGHT ON James Audas & Tom Sheer, co-owners of Lo-Fi Wines and Bar Heather, Byron Bay. Tom: Lo-Fi Wines started a decade ago as an attempt to get out of restaurant work but keep our love of wine alive. A rather ironic starting point that led to Bar Heather. We began importing wine when it was relatively unknown and overlooked, only a handful of importers could be counted on to explore these styles of wine and to our eye there was so much more to discover. James: I am loving the new wave of winemakers across Victoria especially those working with cabernet sauvignon. Some…

Not many chefs can lay claim to being maverick liqueur producers, but then not many chefs are possessed of such talent as Dave Verheul. Two years before Melbourne’s Covid lockdowns, the Kiwi began making vermouth for customers at Embla, the Russell Street institution he co-owns with Christian McCabe. Instead of the traditional spice-andcaramel-forward route, Verheul focused on fresh ingredients, using his wood oven to maximise flavour. Late in 2020, he released his first commercial bottling under the Saison banner, though he didn’t start out with the idea to take his product to market, he says. “I just love bitter drinks and working with alcohol and flavour development is fascinating.” The House Vermouth is an infusion of roasted hazelnuts, vanilla and smoked fig leaves in a base of moscato and shiraz,…

V VEGETARIAN GF GLUTEN FREE DF DAIRY FREE COVER STAR To turn this into an entertaining showstopper, serve a whole side of trout atop a generous platter of salad. PREPARATION TIP For an even crisper and crunchier texture, you can double-coat the eggplant by repeating the egg and breadcrumb steps. SERVING SUGGESTION Serve with your favourite fresh bread and top with fresh herbs. COOKING TIP If you’re using wooden skewers, soak them in water for about 30 minutes before threading the pork on them. This will prevent them from burning during cooking. MAKE IT GF To make this recipe gluten free, substitute udon noodles for flat rice noodles or konjac noodles. ORIGINS Skordalia is a Greek dip made with a base of mashed potato blended with garlic, olive oil, vinegar…

Andrew Leung Hong Kong Dim Sum, Melbourne, Vic “I was the chubby one of my three brothers so I got called fei zai, which means ‘fat boy’. We didn’t get emotionally traumatised in those days!” laughs Andrew Leung of his days growing up in Melbourne’s Box Hill. His dad, Kong Choi Leung was one of the city’s first dim sum master chefs, working at classic Melbourne Chinese restaurants such as Janbo and Flower Drum after arriving in Australia in 1982. “Sometimes I’d get lost in Chinatown so I’d go into the restaurants and the chefs all knew I was Kong Choi Leung’s son. They’d call him up and say ‘Your kid’s here’ and then they’d feed me. There’d always be duck and noodles ready for me wherever I’d go.” These…

With its excess of beautiful scenery and good, sparsely trafficked country roads, Tasmania is an instant frontrunner on the great road trips bingo card. Add the island’s increasing variety of excellent accommodation and an astonishing range of small artisanal businesses – wineries, oyster farms, furniture makers, distilleries, patisseries, bakeries, jewellery and fabric designers, breweries, fisheries, heroically committed paddock-to-plate restaurants, coffee roasters, farm gates, farmers’ markets – and you’d be right to question your sanity and your life choices if you’ve not yet taken advantage of all the abundance. Admittedly, Tasmania does keep things low-key. The flashiest parts of the island are its natural assets – all those cinematic thickly forested, cloudshrouded mountains and endless stretches of ruggedly handsome coastline – with its commercial side taking a more subtle approach that…

THE STAY Newly renovated, Burrawang House seamlessly blends polished modern living with warm country character to create the perfect spot for group getaways or multi-generational gatherings. Set on an acre of land, this sprawling country home can sleep up to 16 guests across its five bedrooms, including a cleverly designed bunk room that sleeps eight. With indoor and outdoor dining areas and a fully equipped farmhouse kitchen, the house is made for entertaining, with plenty to occupy guests of all ages, including a separate games room located away from the main house. And as you sip a glass of rosé and lounge poolside (fully heated with a spa) it’s easy to forget you’re still only a two-hour drive from Sydney and not in the south of France. Sunsets are best…

Spring fair Chic market totes, botanical beauty and blushes to try, handcrafted interiors, and luxe vases. 1 Harper large tote, $499, Oroton. 2 Well Being canvas tote bag in Olive, $149, Pony Rider. 3 Printed velvet bag, $8080, Chanel. 4 Escape tote in Svtone, $355, State of Escape. 5 The Jacksons jute tote bag, $179, Collector Store. 6 Everyday large tote in Navy, $165, July. 7 Large cabas in raffia effect textile with Celine embroidery in Natural/Tan, $3500, Celine. 8 Large Dior book tote in Ecru and Blue Toile de Jouy embroidery, $5000, Dior. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING JACQUI TRIGGS. MERCHANDISING CHARLOTTE WISHHART.…

HOME INSPIRATION 1 Gervasoni Brass 95 pendant, $1590, Anibou. 2 ZA Collective 2 piece salad server set, $50, Shop Charlies Interiors. 3 Otta in Chevron Natural Grade, $142 per square metre, Tongue & Groove. 4 Fisher & Paykel Integrated French Door fridge, $6099, Harvey Norman. 5 Blanco Carena-S Goosneck pull-out tap, $879, Harvey Norman. 6 Tom Dixon Fat dining chair, $2685, Living Edge. 7 78cm Induction cooktop, $2099, Ilve. 8 Champagne cooler in Verde, $795, Corey Ashford. 9 50s Style Mini kettle in Black, $199, Smeg. 10 Emerald Haze Quartzite, POA, CDK Stone. 11 Miyazaki Bon stool, $1010, Apato. 12 Atlas Catchall bowl in Fiore, $395, Corey Ashford. 13 Kristalia Holo dining table, $11,695, Fanuli. PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART. STYLING CLAIRE DELMAR (MIRROR IMAGE KITCHEN). MERCHANDISING HOLLY DORAN.…

Clockwise from above left: Brian Tunks cut glass mini conical vase in Gold, $125, Bison Home. Katie Ann Houghton’s Hive short vase in Orange, $790, Rainbow Studios. Balloon vase in Green, $69, Marmoset Found. Global Views Tall Amber over Cobalt large vase (separate amber lid not shown) $580, Gramercy Home. Argot Studios The Capsule III, $172, Rainbow Studios. Global Views Ombre tapered medium vase in Grey/Amber, $175, Gramercy Home. Modern glass vase in Amber, $159, Saardé. Umpu glass vase in Clay, $199, Marimekko. Flower clear glass vase, $75, Marimekko. PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING & MERCHANDISING HOLLY DORAN.…

Yeye’s Warung, Bali Coconut-flecked beans, nutty tempeh curry, chicken satay and plenty of sambal were just a few of the elements that made this nasi campur terrific. Add in an ice-cold jamu (a turmeric ginger tincture) and you’ll be fuelled and ready to explore Uluwatu’s outstanding beaches. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor Hamilton Island, Qld Blue skies, ocean views and lounging poolside was just what the doctor ordered and what better place to find it in than in one lush, restorative package at Qualia on Hamilton Island. Delightful. Joanna Hunkin, editor Beach Shack, Kokomo Private Island, Fiji Not long before this photo was taken, my dinner – a sustainably caught Kadavu reef bug – was wriggling in my hands. Kokomo is the only resort in Fiji with a live shellfish program.…

SHORTHIVE SALTED HONEY Taking cues from salted caramel, this gorgeous golden honey uses Murray River salt to cut through and complement honey’s natural sweetness. Pour on popcorn, waffles or ice-cream for an unexpected honey hit. $24.95 for 295gm, shorthive.com SIMON JOHNSON TRUFFLE HONEY While the aroma of this combination is strong, on the palate a delicately balanced earthy honey reveals itself. The small pot is ideal for adding to cheeseboards, and would sit next to a brie or Gorgonzola beautifully. $20.75 for 100gm, simonjohnson.com MALFROY’S GOLD WILD HONEY Loved by chefs and beekeepers alike, this Red Stringybark honey possesses a deep toffee-like scent and a delicately floral and caramel flavour. The rare wild honey is best kept for special breakfasts and afternoon treats. $39 for 500gm, malfroysgold.com.au QUINBY’S CHILLI HONEY…

We are extremely fortunate to have Rachel Perkins’ critical and trailblazing voice in Australia. It’s the voice of a person I admire deeply, respect, and from whom I continue to learn so much. Rachel is one of Australia’s greatest storytellers and media talents – most recently winning both a Logie and a NSW Premier’s History Award for her SBS series The Australian Wars – who has dedicated her life to truth-telling, ensuring First Nations people’s stories, voices, and histories are seen and heard. Rachel Rachel Perkins hasn’t had a death threat yet. In stepping out from behind the camera to advocate for the Yes23 campaign for the Voice to Parliament referendum, she is putting herself in the line of fire. “But it’s my obligation to step up,” the Arrernte and…

Brisbane, Qld QUICK LOOK 740 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, Qld tamadining.au CHEF Richard Ousby OPENING HOURS Lunch Fri; Dinner Wed-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$$ BOOKINGS Recommended VERDICT A fitting glow up It’s the grit in the oyster that makes the pearl. It’s true of the mollusc world and proving to be the case at the Chinatown end of Fortitude Valley. Because, among the strip clubs, nightclubs and bars, against an electric and sometimes rowdy streetscape, Brisbane’s most lustrous new venue has taken form inside the heritagelisted General Post Office building, after a $9 million glow up. Turns out, grandeur feels fresh in this part of the city. From the outset, Tama’s opulent intentions are made clear by the menu, which opens with warm native Akoya pearl oysters in sake butter, or…

“There are so many other ways you can work on the culinary platform without being chained to a location. I’m a fringe-dweller.” It wasn’t supposed to happen like this. Analiese Gregory only ever meant to take six months off as executive chef at Hobart’s highly regarded Franklin to meet a book deadline. Three years later, she’s still roaming free – with gigs including cooking for guests on a private island, consulting to the Australian Open, catering for luxury elopements and developing a home-based food experience. “I’m happy with how it’s all happened,” she says, “even though it was unexpected.” Gregory is just one of a raft of chefs choosing to walk away from full-time restaurant work to explore other opportunities. Some of these decisions were carefully planned while others were…

Can you ever have too many broad beans in spring? Rodney Dunn certainly doesn’t think so. “Eating locally means you’ll have the same thing in a short period. That’s what seasonality is,” says The Agrarian Kitchen owner. Dunn’s ardour for provenance and seasonality is what drove him and wife Séverine Demanet to leave Sydney in 2008 and set up The Agrarian Kitchen Cooking School and Farm in Lachlan, Tasmania. “It was about linking a food experience to a single place; to show people how good food can be when it is grown with integrity. “Growing up, I never remember getting excited because something was local. That’s the thing about Tasmania – it has this deep sense of its own identity,” says Dunn. After relocating to the former New Norfolk asylum…

It only takes a visit to Roberta Hall-McCarron’s two restaurants in the north of Edinburgh to understand why she’s one of Scotland’s most talented chefs. She is a champion for Scottish produce and for Leith, the port district in the north of Edinburgh where she and her husband Shaun live and run their two restaurants. The Little Chartroom and Eleanore have helped contribute to a thriving and ever-evolving culinary scene in the area. PERFECT COFFEE AND CAKES The coffee at Williams & Johnson Coffee Co. is fabulous and is roasted on the premises. They’ve recently built a little kitchen and have started making their own pastries to serve as well. It’s right by the water and a nice place to sit on a sunny day, drink delicious coffee and catch…

THE INTELLIGENT EDIT 1 NARS AFTERGLOW LIQUID BLUSH Lightweight with a luminous finish this buildable liquid is beauty’s answer to thinking sexy thoughts. The formula is long-lasting, hydrating and comes in six shades. That includes Orgasm, Nars’ cult peachy pink with subtle gold shimmer, loved by makeup artists for flattering just about everyone. $48, mecca.com.au 2 DIOR ROSY GLOW Tap this fine powder into the apples of the cheeks (or on cheekbones for lift) and bask in instant warmth. Known as Beautytok’s favourite blush, Rosy Glow contains eosin, which reacts to skin’s pH and moisture to create a long-lasting, radiant flush. Seen here in Rosewood, a summery neutral with big Amalfi Coast vibes. $72, dior.com.au 3 CHANEL LES SYMBOLES DE CHANEL OVERSIZE ILLUMINATING POWDER Delivering colour and glow to the…

1 Héctor Serrano Ballet pendant lights, from $1099, Mobilia. 2 Coastal carafe, from $170, Milly Dent 3 Gladstone throw, $415, Furtex. 4 Frankie lounge chair, $3995, Fanuli. 5 Speckled Moon vase $149, Polly Barton. 6 Kalahari rug in Natural & Chalk, $1240, Armadillo. 7 Tom Dixon Tank whiskey decanter in Black, $300, Living Edge. 8 Jacques coffee table, $18,250, Fanuli. 9 Calacatta marble, POA, CDK Stone. 10 Grace sofa, $8250, Fanuli. 11 New York pouf in White, $3220, Poliform. 12 HK Living tonal blush matte ceramic platter, $153, Trouva. 13 Kristalia Font small table, $3595, Fanuli. HOME INSPIRATION PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART.…

BRIGHT AND RIGHT Hot new openings to have on your dining and drinking radar, hotels to check into, artisan chickens and hot sauce, a country getaway, and cruise news. RESTAURANT NEWS THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND AUSTRALIA BRISBANE Acclaimed chef Martin Boetz has opened Shortgrain, a Thai restaurant-grocer in the Valley. After departing Surry Hills stalwart Longrain in 2013, followed by a time in the Hawkesbury running the Cooks Co-Op, Boetz settled in Brisbane in 2022. So far, the move suits him. “Brisbane is buzzing,” he says. “It reminds me of Sydney in the time before the Olympics, how it came alive.” For his Queensland concept, Boetz is going brighter and more casual with a day-tonight restaurant and a grab-and-go grocer adjoined. At lunchtimes Shortgrain will focus on…

We used to spend most summers in France when I was a child. I always remember eating loads of crisp French baguettes and cassis and white chocolate ice-cream. Those sticky flavours were so completely the tastes of my childhood holidays and they take me back instantly if I ever have them again. Cooking with my mum was such a treat while I was growing up. I think I was much more into cooking as a child because I really cherished that time I could spend with my mum, but being in the kitchen with her would also make me feel so grown up. She was such an amazing baker and she used to teach me recipes so that we could bake together. I can’t say I have that same passion…

QUICK LOOK 380 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic reineandlarue.melbourne OPENING HOURS Lunch and dinner Tue-Sat CHEF Jacqui Challinor PRICE GUIDE $$$$ BOOKINGS Essential VERDICT Gorgeous French neo-gothic glamour Melbourne, Vic Advice for those entering Reine and La Rue for the first time: neck-limbering exercises are recommended. The latest outing from the Sydney-based Nomad Group (Nomad Sydney and Melbourne, Beau) is an immediate contender for Australia’s most beautiful dining space. The magnificence of the vast 1890s neo-gothic Cathedral Room, once home to Melbourne’s stock exchange, ensures unavoidable gawking. Then, as if all the glorious period detailing (sandstone, marble, tile, stained glass, soaring vaulted ceilings) have not tested your neck enough, the menu prices could conceivably induce whiplash too. Let’s be realistic though. Nobody coming to dine at an ambitious Collins Street restaurant…

Brioche is a rich, buttery, and slightly sweet bread of French origin. It is famous for its tender crumb, golden crust, and delightful taste. One of the defining features of brioche is its high butter content, which contributes to its rich flavour and soft, delicate crumb. Incredibly versatile, it can be served as a standalone bread or enjoyed with butter or jam. It is also commonly used as a base for French toast, sandwiches, or in modern times, hamburger buns. Step by step Begin this recipe a day ahead. 1 Whisk 14gm (4 tsp) yeast, 80ml warm milk and 1 tbsp caster sugar in a small bowl until yeast dissolves. Cover; stand in a warm place until mixture is frothy (10-15 minutes). 2 Mix 600gm plain flour, 1 tsp fine…

Ester opened in Chippendale in 2013 on the land of Gadigal of the Eora nation. In the restaurant and its food you might discern the Australian way of doing things. This is a restaurant built around an oven and a neighbourhood. The Ester oven is fired by wood and everything served by the restaurant is touched by that fire. Sometimes the contact is literal, the flames licking ingredients hot and fast, opening oysters, scorching heads of caulif lower. Other times, it’s more abstract, the soft warmth of the oven’s bricks nurturing ferments. Ester’s food is Mat Lindsay’s food. He grew up on the Central Coast of New South Wales and learned to cook working for Neil Perry and Kylie Kwong. His best advice for attempting these recipes at home? “Keep…

The first glint of the natural abundance that fuels the soul of Heckfield Place in Hampshire, England, is apparent the moment you step through the heavy doors: the flowers. It’s early spring when I arrive and every table and mantel is a tangle of sunrise-coloured poppies, yolk-yellow daffodils and creamy tulips, the latter with soft bowls of petals almost as large as my head. Then, as you meander through the different spaces of this 45-room and six-suite former Georgian family home, the sense that the earth’s bounty is the heartbeat of everything that happens here grows. There are chalkboards detailing that week’s farm produce haul (Jerusalem artichokes, rocket, bay, buttermilk, medlars and sloes), and tumbling baskets of ivy hanging over tables in Marle, one of the two restaurants overseen by…

1 Luxury Australian fragrance forged from finger lime. Bohemian Lime fragrance, $239, Goldfield & Banks. 2 Hydration powered by hemp seed oil. Nurture Face Moisturiser, $54.95, Musq. 3 Smoothing, purifying and enriched with rose fruit extract. Fresh Rose Deep Hydration Facial Toner, $69, Sephora. 4 Acold-pressed macadamia oil treatment for softer tresses. Bread Beauty Supply Macadamia Oil For Hair & Body, $46, Sephora. 5 Acocktail of Vitamin E, amino acids and antioxidants for the face made from a single super food. Sea Buckthorn Serum, $209.95, Mud Organics. 6 Spritz liberally for herbaceous trails of zippy basil. Officine Universelle Buly Eau Triple Verveine Basilic Perfume, $274, Mecca. 7 The goodness of grapes, extracted to hydrate complexions. Korres Santorini Grape Velvet Skin Drink, $81, Mecca. 8 Clean and green. Origins Plantscription Anti-Aging…