Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2023 i Gourmet Traveller

The future. Two little words that carry so much power and potential; that represent hope and promise, or can strike fear and uncertainty into us all. Looking to the future can be thoroughly overwhelming – or it can lift you up, buoyed by the promise of better things to come. Which is the feeling we have tried to capture in this, our Next Gen issue. In this future-focused edition, we explore some of the fascinating new trends that will shape how we eat in the future – and meet some of the artisans preserving old traditions for a new generation. Chef Jo Barrett shares recipes that embody the lessons she learned as part of the Future Food System project, and we join a group of citizen scientists as they set…

SYDNEY Kolture is a new Korean-focused hospitality outfit, with three restaurants opening across Sydney. Founder David Bae follows in his father’s footsteps (who was one of the first to bring Korean barbecue restaurants to Sydney in the ’90s) hoping to further establish Korean cuisine in Sydney. Tokki focuses on anju (Korean snacks with drinks) in Surry Hills; while Soot in Barangaroo will level up the Korean barbecue experience. Taking cues from high-end Australian steakhouses and classic Korean barbecue restaurants, self-manned smokeless grills will be ready to sizzle up premium and aged wagyu cuts alongside Australian cuts not typically found on Korean menus. Finally Leemix will open in Circular Quay, and is set to create a chef’s table experience for just eight people per seating. The Korean wave continues with Soul…

Like many, for Charlotte Ree, cooking is a language of love. But love doesn’t always forge a straightforward path, and in her new book Heartbake, Ree details the bittersweet journey from divorce to dating and beyond. What initially started out as a commission for a cookbook turned into a memoir-meets-cookbook. The first half of the yolk-yellow hardback details Ree’s childhood growing up with a mother with mental illness; the blossoming and then breakdown of her marriage; and the discovery of her identity in her 30s. While there are hardships, it’s never pitiful or hopeless, but instead a soulful and real account of a life well lived. “No one’s life is perfect and you never know what’s going on – it’s messy and imperfect. But no matter what happens, just by…

Like so many, we were shocked and saddened to learn of the death of chef and restaurateur Jock Zonfrillo in May. As a chef, he was instrumental in shaping Australia’s food identity over the past decade, championing the use of native ingredients and educating diners, one brilliant dish at a time. His creativity, passion and precision saw his Adelaide restaurant Orana named Gourmet Traveller’s Restaurant of the Year in 2017. At the time, our judges wrote: “It’s Australian food as we’ve never eaten before – confident, assured and original…. Seeking inspiration and knowledge through interacting with Aboriginal communities is central to Zonfrillo’s mission.” That mission saw Zonfrillo establish the not-for-profit research project The Orana Foundation in 2016, which went on to create the country’s first Indigenous food database, cataloguing more…

I first learned of dynamic young community leaders, Bridget Cama and Allira Davis, co-chairs of the Uluru Youth Dialogue, when they co-hosted the webinar, “Women Of The Voice” for this year’s International Women’s Day. I was struck by their grounded, powerful presence, deep knowledge and ancient wisdom, which has been handed down to them by their Elders. I am grateful to have these two important young mentors in my life, who speak directly from the heart and communicate honestly and authentically. It’s May 21 last year and Allira Davis is at a party in Brisbane, glued to her phone. Meanwhile in Sydney, her Uluru Youth Dialogue co-chair Bridget Cama is at home looking after her sick toddler, tied to the same text thread. This was the night the Australian Labor…

LIINAA BERRY Wine curator Olivine Wine Bar, Melbourne Olivine is an elegant wine bar in Melbourne’s new billion-dollar dining precinct at Pentridge. Heritage cells have been transformed into booths and a walk-in cellar. Our menu emphasises local produce. Think scallop tarts with yuzu emulsion and tomato powder, or house chicken liver parfait with muscat and brown butter tuile. The wine list features more than 500 labels and is called the Book of Wine. It’s written in chapters with a foreword, synopsis, and epilogue. We have an entire range from Champagne producers in distinct sub regions. Like Frederic Savart from Montagne de Reims or the wines of Olivier Horiot from Côte des Bar. We’re proud to have Domaine Hauvette. Dominique Hauvette learnt from Eloi Dürrbach from Domaine de Trevallon. Her Roussanne is probably…

The “next generation” connotes many things: better stewardship of vineyards, less manipulation in wineries and greater diversity amid a male dominion. From a vinous perspective, there remains a strong trajectory towards lighter, fresher, more transparent wines. After years of easy-going styles, often soupy, anodyne and bereft of structure, there is a hankering for moreishness. Wines to get the teeth into, with a chomp of tannin and a waft of freshness. Wines with enough of these structural elements to promote drinkability, versatility at the table, and savouriness over overt fruit. This next gen transcends the vapid mould of hipster sameness, delivering a soulful message of provenance and of place. These are wines of grapes grown in places that are right for them. Experimentation on these shores and ancient lessons of older…

With origins dating back to the 17th century in the French town of Pithiviers, this golden pie has long been a winter crowd-pleaser. Recently in Sydney, Lode Pies has made the radial-topped pie a hit with a rich chicken edition; while Meatsmith in Melbourne crafts an Aylesbury duck and foie gras version, wrapped in butter puff pastry. Here, we’ve opted for a vegetarian take, pairing charred carrots and garlic shoots with goat’s curd for a modern meat-free option. Note We used Carême All Butter Puff Pastry. Recipe can be made up to end of step 5 a day ahead for ease of preparation. Pies can also be frozen for 3 months and thawed, then cooked as below from step 6. 6 large carrots (about 1kg), thinly sliced lengthways100 gm garlic shoots…

I’m tasting blood and iron and rose petals says wine buyer Isy Szyman, sitting back in reverie. The all-rounder at indie wine store Rathdowne Cellars has just sipped one of her ride-or-die Champagnes, the Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Rosé NV, poured at a masterclass special enough to draw 40 of Melbourne’s top sommeliers to Cutler & Co restaurant on a Monday afternoon. The rosé is the sixth of 12 Egly-Ouriet Champagnes poured in four brackets of three to accompany an elegant, carefully matched five-course lunch by chef Jordan Clavaron. For the first hour, the air is electric. Bit by bit, sip by sip, restrained murmuring softens into grateful joy as more wines are poured and tasting glasses emptied – there are spittoons but few seem to be using them. “This…

Born in Malaysia and raised in Vancouver, Alex Chen is proud to represent not just his province of British Columbia, but Canada as a whole (in 2013, he was part of the Canadian team that competed in the Bocuse d’Or international cooking competition). After the competition, he opened Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar at The Sutton Place Hotel, an elegant fine diner that puts local seafood and produce front and centre. Chen is equally excited about celebrating Vancouver’s local dining scene, in particular, its wealth of Asian food options. SEAFOOD 101 Vancouver is a beautiful city surrounded by mountains, lakes, rivers and the Pacific Ocean. Our water system is still fairly pristine, so there’s an abundance of seafood: from sea urchin and geoduck clams to the famous Dungeness crabs that…

MAXIMALIST MOOD Colour and quirk replace “blank slate” aesthetics to warm up interiors this winter. VERDANT VIRTUE Green is the new black as local materials and passive design principles come together with enduring furnishings.…

Four Pillars Bloody Gins The creative cats at Four Pillars Distillery have two new gins to unleash on the world. The 2023 limited edition Bloody Shiraz Gin and Bloody Pinot Noir Gin. Best served on the rocks or with soda. fourpillarsgin.com Longines DolceVita The elegance of Longines’ DolceVita has stood the test of time for more than 25 years and now comes with a colourful new twist, including this green alligator version. longines.com Modern Country Homes Inside Out takes you inside some of Australia’s most innovative and exemplary modern homes in this beautiful hard cover book, featuring some of Australia’s leading photographers. aremediabooks.com.au A&K Reader Dinner Chef Paul Farag will take us on a journey to Egypt for our next reader dinner at his Sydney restaurant Aalia on June 6,…

Hobart’s festival of the radical and surreal returns this winter, and its culinary tentpole event the Winter Feast is set to lure one of Central Europe’s most respected chefs to Nipaluna. Now in its 10th year, the midwinter bacchanalian dinner will see Ana Roš of Hiša Franko in Slovenia collaborate with The Agrarian Kitchen’s Rodney Dunn and Stephen Peak. Roš’s cooking has earned her many accolades in the past seven years, and is known to reflect the complexity of Slovenian history, where the three main European language families – Latin, Germanic and Slavic – converge. The municipality of Kobarid where her restaurant is located is just 40 kilometres from the border of Austria and nine kilometres from Italy. “Ours is a small country,” says Roš, “and our culinary traditions betray…

1 Basalt, Orange, NSW Pot belly indoor fireplaces, large standing stone baths and views overlooking the foothills of Canobolas make Basalt a cosy haven when exploring the Orange region. The new luxury accommodation boasts three beautifully appointed lodges situated on a family-run cherry orchard, just a short drive from the boutique wineries and fine dining establishments for which the wine region is famed. After a day of cellar door-hopping, sip your spoils while sitting by the roaring outdoor fire at dusk. basaltorange.com.au 2 Kyah Hotel, Blue Mountains, NSW A Palm Springs-inspired oasis in the Blue Mountains region may not instantly make sense, but add in slick service, pastel tones, a complimentary breakfast bar and wood-flanked hot tub and you'll understand Kyah’s lure. There’s also a small onsite garden, which supplies the modern…

Growing up, I spent a lot of time between Brisbane and Delungra in rural New South Wales. My mum lived in Brisbane and my grandparents out in Delungra, which is a tiny, little, dusty town. At my grandparents’ house we would have more of a sit down dinner that my grandmother would cook from scratch. She’s an incredible cook and my favourite thing that she would make for us were these fantastic little golden syrup dumplings. My mum was a single mother, which meant she was raising us while working and studying full time, so just by the demand of circumstance we would often get takeaway. My mum is very cool and a big foodie so it was never just Maccas or KFC, it would always be very interesting takeaway;…

Identifying a through line on Such and Such’s menu isn’t easy. A meal might begin with stellar sourdough flatbread that’s more like a crumpet, given glossy sheen from a smear of extra-sharp toum. From there it could zig to a bowl of crunchy fried school prawns and cashews, coated in a tingly “666 spice” mix that’s not quite as demonic as it sounds. Or zag to hibachi-grilled beef intercostals and enoki mushrooms designed to be wrapped in a sesame leaf kissed with perky miso sambal. The more sizeable plates are just as inspired, but offer no more in the way of cohesion. Chunks of salmon and markedly fresh mussels find favour alongside semi-dried tomatoes and al dente Great Northern beans in a delicately briny broth that recalls Neapolitan acqua pazza.…

Mauricio, where did you spend your childhood? I was born in Mexico City but grew up in Monterrey. My grandfather on my dad’s side was Spanish so I grew up drinking a lot of Spanish wine. Even though Mexico now has quite a sizable wine industry, 20 years ago there wasn’t much Mexican wine, so my introduction to the wine world was heavily influenced by imports, mostly from Spain and Argentina. How did the two of you meet? Over a cold shandy on our first day at the University of Adelaide, where we were studying viticulture and oenology. Tell us about your brands. Somos (meaning “we are” in Spanish) are wines I want to drink, made from the sustainably grown and climate appropriate varieties I want to work with. Seven…

If anyone’s positioned to forecast what lies ahead for Australian cocktails, it’s Evan Stroeve. In 2021, the Sydney bartender was named Australian Bartender of the Year in Diageo’s prestigious World Class competition – a fitting honour for a young gun who cut his teeth at the legendary Shady Pines Saloon, before assuming general manager roles at the sorely missed Bulletin Place and Matt Whiley’s pioneering waste-conscious bar, Re. “More now than ever, bartenders are using cocktails to tell stories that extend beyond spirit, syrup and juice, and to reconnect people to the things they consume,” he says. This decidedly holistic approach is front and centre in the Waratah Spritz, a produce-driven, low-ABV palate primer. To build it, Stroeve begins by infusing apera, or Australian dry sherry, with yuzu grown by…

OLD WORLD 2017 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino, $99 A message of provenance from a famous Italian region flowing across waves of darker fruit, walnut, mint and mahogany. The latticework of tannins and saline freshness, compresses the mass into one of savoury assertion and confidence. FRESH APPROACH 2021 Commune of Buttons Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, $40 Jasper Button has played the hipster card, but nothing gives him more satisfaction than returning to the land. In the Adelaide Hills, he sews mid-weighted wines with freshness, scents of orchard fruits and a weave and bob of chew and stony tension. Mellifluous stuff. CRISP & JUICY 2021 Domaine Mérieau Sauvignon, Touraine, $30 Dissociate from Australian sauvignon and its tropical clang of acidity. Instead, think of a clear river running over rocks. Think quince, apple and…

SALT KITCHEN CHARCUTERIE “Sometimes I break it down for people: What we do is we rub pork with salt, hang it and then we eat it. It’s as simple as that,” says Mick Nunn, director of Ballarat’s award-winning Salt Kitchen Charcuterie. Sure, some things have changed from centuries past when pork was first preserved, but also, some things haven’t changed at all. “The techniques are still very valid,” he says. “The things they have been doing for centuries are still what we do today,” albeit with a few modifications to keep up with various Australian hygiene regulations. Nunn started Salt Kitchen Charcuterie in 2014, after a career spent as a chef at Melbourne mainstays including Fitzroy’s Marios and Grossi Florentino. Following a stint working overseas in the UK and Europe,…

Sheraton Grand Mirage, Port Douglas Two hectares of saltwater lagoon pools signal swimming and relaxing are top priorities at this Far North Queensland resort. Poolside dining at Lagoon House, glowing sunset dinners at Harrisons restaurant, plus spacious rooms round out a trifecta of sunshine state glory. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor Minjerribah (North Stradbroke Island) There are whales passing by in winter and wallabies in the streets all year round. Sometimes you don’t have to stray too far from home to feel awestruck. Minjerribah is a short ferry hop from the mainland, but its quiet beauty and abundant wildlife makes it feel a million miles away. Fiona Donnelly, Qld state editor Printhie Wines Cellar Door, Orange The five-course menu at Printhie is led by the wines, but head chef Jack Brown…

Sandwiches may be one of the more humble food offerings – but it doesn’t mean they have to be short on creativity or pizzazz. Barry Enderwick capitalises on this in his Instagram series Sandwiches of History, which sees him assemble and critique sandwiches based on historical recipe books from the 1800s through to the present. Crafting classics (such as the fried oyster po’ boy or the Cuban sandwich), globe-trotting numbers (including a jamón bocadillo, croque-monsieur and roti John) and the totally cuckoo (like the “fruit meat sandwich” which uses blended nuts and dried fruits as a meat replacement) Enderwick tests them to see if the recipes have stood the test of time. So what – despite decades – makes a good sandwich? “The right ingredients for the mood you’re in,”…

Celery enjoyed enormous popularity in ancient times. It is native to the Mediterranean basin, where it was used in medicine and ritual. It was found in the tomb of the pharaoh Tutankhamun, from 1325 BC. It is mentioned in Homer’s The Iliad and The Odyssey. The sixth century Sicilian town of Selinunte took its name from the Greek word for celery, selinon, and its coinage depicted a celery leaf. For most of its history, celery would have not been recognisable to us. Rather than the familiar juicy-stemmed vegetable of today, celery existed in the form of the strongly flavoured herb smallage, used to flavour soups and stews, or eaten as a spring tonic to the stodgy cuisine of the winter season. It was not until the 16th century that celeries…

The prolific appeal and excellent marketing of the Champagne region and its wines are a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they are highly sought after and heralded as the “world’s best sparkling”. On the other, there’s the misconception that most Champagne houses have morphed into large-scale soulless affairs to keep up with the global mass consumption of their bubbly wines. Then there is a wine so full of soul and intrigue that you can’t help but tell the naysayers they got it wrong this time; Bollinger’s release of the 2008 R.D. Champagne is one such wine. To be fair, it was always going to be a spectacular wine – the 2008 vintage is categorically understood to be “the best vintage since 1928”. Bollinger’s R.D. is one of the last…

Pennyweight Constance Fino The Morris family’s commitment to organic, biodynamic farming comes through in their fino’s purity and brightness. $32 for 375ml blackheartsandsparrows.com.au Seppeltsfield DP117 NV Solero Dry Flor Apera Seppeltsfield’s take on fino sherry is briny, yeasty and desert-dry, with hints of green apple, marzipan and Sicilian olives. $35 for 500ml seppeltsfield.com.au Chambers Dry Flor Apera Now made by sixth-generation winemaker Stephen Chambers, this benchmark fortified hums with nuttiness, faint cheesiness, floral perfume and brisk salinity. $20 for 750ml chambersrosewood.com.au…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Salmon keftedes, winter rémoulade and grilled pita SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS REFRIGERATING) 1 small red onion, finely chopped1 garlic clove, crushed½ tsp allspice1 tbsp each finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, mint and oregano2 tbsp plain flour1 egg, lightly beaten600 gm piece salmon, finely chopped2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oilRoasted pine nuts, for scatteringLemon wedges, charred pita, pomegranate arils and baby rocket, to serve WINTER RÉMOULADE 180 gm celeriac, peeled, cut into julienne70 gm Japanese mayonnaise2 golden shallots, finely sliced2 tbsp finely chopped dill and tarragon, plus extra dill, for scattering 1 For salmon keftedes, place onion, garlic, all spice, herbs, flour, egg and salmon in a large bowl, season to taste and mix to combine. Divide mixture in to…

Predicting the future can be tricky, but it’s clear that climate change, changing diets, evolving technology and the rise of Indigenous ingredients will shape what we cook, serve and consume in the coming decade. Staples like meat and coffee are going to taste – and look – different, while uncorking a bottle of wine might become as old-fashioned as winding up a gramophone. Here are the innovations that could determine how we’ll be eating and drinking next. INDUCTION IS THE ECO-FRIENDLY WAY TO COOK Gas is on its way out – for environmental and health reasons – and induction cooking will be its sleek, safer and more energy-efficient replacement. The Global Cooksafe Coalition has linked gas stoves with childhood asthma and indoor pollution, and sees induction cooktops as a green…

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Vegans aren’t vegan because they hate flavour, that’s animal cruelty you’re thinking of,” writes recipe developer Zacchary Bird. Based in Melbourne, Bird is a master of plant-based meat alternatives. He believes going vegan (or cooking the occasional vegan meal) shouldn’t mean foregoing taste. “So many of the flavours assumed to be exclusive to meat are created through technique and seasoning,” he writes in The Vegan Butcher. “The same effort applied to plant-based food can achieve some seriously impressive results.” Baja fish tacos MAKES 6 Here we use Bird’s tempeh fish recipe though he has myriad fish-style recipes. Canola oil, for deep-frying6 small corn tortillasLime wedges, to serve TEMPEH FISH FILLETS 600 gm tempeh blocks, sliced into 12 fingers500 ml awase dashi or water60 ml lemon juice2 tbsp white miso paste2…

All over Melbourne doors are swinging open. Grand doors; attached to impressive thresholds; ushered by uniformed porters smoothing the transition from street to splendour. The year’s first landmark hotel opening (technically a reopening) belonged to The Royce in February, a dapper boutique stay, just south of the river in 3004 (the suburb of Melbourne). Then came the Marriotts, and the many pedigreed personalities belonging to the dynasty. In March this charge was led by the Australian return of Le Méridien, as the French-born stable brought a mid-century sensibility to the footsteps of the old Palace Theatre. A week later Champagne bottles were popping open again. This time for Marriott’s illustrious big hitter The Ritz-Carlton, which lends its sparkle to the CBD’s new leisure and hospitality precinct, West Side Place. So…