Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2023 i Gourmet Traveller

It never fails to fascinate me how food trends develop. How different people, in different places, can have near identical thoughts at the same time. One minute, no one will have ever heard of ’nduja… the next, it’s on every menu from here to Fremantle. That particular trend was the result of the 2019 wave of Italian diners that swept the country – bringing with it cacio e pepe-flavoured everything. In 2021, we saw a French revolution of sorts, as a burst of bistros and brasseries took over Australia’s cities. And now, it seems we are drifting south again, this time to Spain, with a raft of new Spanish-leaning openings firing up our tastebuds with their salty, snackable morsels. Of course, Spanish traditions have been influencing Australian food culture for…

1 Perelló Gordal Picante These pitted olives are almost meaty in texture, each being dense, succulent and nuanced. A star solo or ideal for spearing with a toothpick, they won’t last long on any snack plate. $9, drnks.com.au 2 Mount Zero Lemon & Thyme Mixed Olives Along with mastering olive oil, Mount Zero Olives produce these easy-to-serve fresh sealed packs that are a pantry essential for entertainers. A zippy marinade of lemon zest and thyme dials up the flavour. $4.60, mountzeroolives.com 3 Simon Johnson Gordal Olives Gordal olives are also referred to as queen olives, thanks to their fleshy and fruity style. Grown in Andalusia on Spain’s southernmost peninsula, the olives are harvested early in the season resulting in a deeply savoury flavour. $12.95, simonjohnson.com…

Craig Foster is a powerful “Force For Good” whom I met through volunteering at Addison Road Community Organisation. Craig’s tireless, skilful efforts within the community, around sport and social responsibility, alongside his ardent human rights activism drive very real and positive change for so many. Above all, I love Craig’s true nature, a person motivated by a deep care and compassion for all of humanity. Not all heroes wear capes. This we know. In Australia, they are more often seen in sporting jerseys. For Craig Foster, the hero status – or “Fozz Factor” – he wields as a former Socceroo captain grants him a certain power, one he uses for the good of humanity. “It’s a well-worn phrase; with privilege comes responsibility,” says the former foot baller-turned television commentator. Foster’s…

QUICK LOOK 67 Albion St, Surry Hills, NSW barcopains.com CHEFS Nathan Sasi and Morgan McGlone OPENING HOURS Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Thu-Mon PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended. VERDICT Knows the hits and knows how to play ’em. To pinpoint exactly what the people want and then deliver it is much easier said than done. Bar Copains manages to do exactly that, and does it with a relaxed, unshowy confidence that’s rare among new openings. If chef pals Nathan Sasi and Morgan McGlone are out to prove anything at the snug Surry Hills natural wine bar – their first venture together – then they certainly aren’t making too much noise about it. Instead, the respective Leigh Street Wine Room founder and former Belle’s Hot Chicken boss are leaning on familiar and almost…

Vinify’s portfolio focus is on terroir-led wines from the world’s great regions, both well-known and under-the-radar. My focus also now centres around developing our team. The producer I am particularly excited about right now is Bruno Giacosa. Ever since I started Vinify, Bruno Giacosa was a dream acquisition. We proudly welcomed them to our portfolio this year. I have had many memorable moments in Italy. I will never forget celebrating my wife’s 30th birthday in Rome over dinner for two with a bottle of 1997 Cepparello. We love sangiovese and it was a case of perfect location, perfect wine and perfect company. vinifywineco.com.au…

Vodka seems, at once, like the most logical and most counter-intuitive choice to anchor the Espresso Martini. On the one hand, it acts pretty much as a blank canvas, allowing the bitterness of the espresso and the liqueur’s sweetness to do the heavy lifting. On the other, that lack of complexity feels like a missed opportunity, especially when other spirits such as dark rum have so much more to offer. “Coffee and rum just go together,” says Jo Gamvros, who co-owns seminal Melbourne hangout Bar Lourinhã with her partner, chef Matt McConnell. Their venue’s take on the ever popular modern classic doubles down on richness with the inspired Iberian addition of Pedro Ximénez. The Spanish dessert sherry not only enhances the taste of both the coffee and the rum, but…

Originally hailing from La Cova Fumada (one of chef Frank Camorra’s favourite bars in Barcelona) the bomba represents all of what should be in an excellent tapas dish: it may be smaller in size but it’s the perfect bite. “It’s a great way to start because of the acid content and big flavours,” says Camorra. His iteration is served with a mojo picón, Camorra’s interpretation of a classic Canary Island sauce. “It’s one of our go-to sauces.” This versatile sauce can also be made in double batches and served with other tapas dishes. “It can be used in so many things, with fish or grilled veggies.” Step by step 1 For chorizo filling, remove and discard casings from 2 chorizo (125gm each). Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large…

In the pintxos bars of San Sebastián, in the Basque Country, the humble toothpick is more than a serving item, it’s culture defining. Where pintxo means “to spike”, the skewers in reference not only construct the self-service mouthfuls that keep drinkers drinking but are used to tally the bill before revellers move on to the next bar. Of all these delicious, speared mouthfuls, it was the gilda that started it all. Named after the Rita Hayworth character in the 1946 film Gilda – for being spicy and salty – it combines a plump aromatic olive, a bright pickled pepper and anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea. Individually, each of these ingredients were typically served as a garnish at San Sebastiàn’s Casa Valles until, according to local legend, a hungry regular decided…

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If you’re fortunate enough to have spent time in Spain, you will be familiar with “its generous hospitality, rich cultural history and intensely regional gastronomy,” says Emma Warren in her new book Spanish at Home. The Mornington Peninsula-based chef and food writer’s own love affair with Spanish food began in 2001 while backpacking around Spain where she learned to cook in the humble homes of generous Spanish hosts. “This is where I discovered the resourcefulness and frugality of Spanish home cooking.” Warren spent the next two decades living between Spain and Melbourne, working for the likes of Philippa Sibley and Karen Martini. This collection of recipes is a celebration of Spanish home cooking, complete with lashings of olive oil and quality Spanish ingredients, “filled with a love of sharing food…

Dabiz Muñoz is best known for his courageous cuisine, his limitless fantasy, and for being the youngest chef to lead a restaurant to its third Michelin star in 2013, when he was aged 33. At his Madrid restaurant Diverxo, he has created a wonderland where pigs fly (inspired by the Spanish proverb “Los Cerdos No Vuelan”, which translates to “pigs can fly”) and it’s best to leave all presumptions at the door and succumb to the unprecedented ride. Muñoz believes Madrid hosts more gastronomic adventures today than it ever has. Here, he helps guide diners to discover them one at a time. A GASTRONOMIC EVOLUTION Catalonia and the Basque Country were always considered Spain’s gastronomic destinations, but over the last five years, Madrid has made itself heard and recognised. Thanks…

EAT & DRINK We can’t talk about Red Hill without starting with the very best – Tedesca Osteria, which was named Gourmet Traveller’s Restaurant of the Year in 2021 and retained the Victorian state crown in 2022. And yes, we promise, it’s still every bit as wonderful as we first said. Book well ahead and prepare to relax into an afternoon of refined elegance and some of the country’s warmest hospitality. Also serving up elegant plates – paired with panoramic views across Western Port Bay to Phillip Island – is Pt Leo Estate, where you’ll find not one but two excellent restaurants, including the award-winning fine-diner Laura and her less-formal sister Pt Leo Estate Restaurant. After spending much of last year closed due to fire, the sister eateries are running…

In the details Embracing natural tones at home and effortless Spanish style, plus bath essentials and carafes to love. WARM UP ACT From terracotta to cream and golden tones of timber, kitchens are getting toastier. FINCA FABULOUS Relax into a living room where natural forms and textures put the senses at ease. HOME IN SPIRATION…

Inspired by La Residencia, A Belmond Hotel, Mallorca…

Small Town Food + Wine, Milton The lobster rolls at this 20-seat gem of a venue are a buttery, crunchy, juicy delight. They are the perfect little upgrade to the $95 set menu by chef-owner Alex Delly (ex-Ezard and Circa the Prince). And reason enough to put the NSW South Coast on your to-do list. Anna McCooe, deputy editor Minerva Pool, Wedderburn, NSW The beautiful Minerva Pool is a sacred Aboriginal site located in the Dharawal National Park. Pack a picnic and enjoy the short bushwalk to the pool. As you wander keep an eye out for koalas nestled in the tree forks. Holly Doran, designer Ursula’s, Sydney The art of great hospitality is about being hospitable. Enter Phil Wood, who whipped up this fresh, gluten-free gnocchi to adapt his…

QUICK LOOK 193 Swan St, Richmond, Vic clover.wine CHEF Charley Snadden-Wilson OPENING HOURS Lunch Thu-Sun; Dinner Tue-Sat PRICE GUIDE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended. VERDICT This excellent, beautifully conceived wine bar adds further lustre to Swan Street’s increasingly interesting mix. With wine bars and freshly renovated pubs proliferating across Melbourne at a fast clip, it’s hard not to surmise that we’re craving something more casual and less structured here in the south. But given that this new wave of more casual venues includes the likes of Richmond’s Clover Vin de Cav, it also appears we’re unwilling to compromise on the quality of booze, food and décor. Casual is all very well but if it doesn’t include a beautifully made grillo-catarratto blend from Sicily and a plate of crunchy pretty house-made pickles served…

What do you make and why? We make delicious wine from grapes with no additives or heavy manipulation, machinery or processes. All our wines are small batch, and made with respect to the winery’s origins as a garage operation and informed by the peasant wine of the Mediterranean. What are the misconceptions about zero-zero wines? The big one is that they’re faulty or that without sulphur you can’t have a stable wine. Of course, there are some bad examples out there but at its best zero-zero wine gives a fantastic purity and vitality that can’t be matched. We are militant about hygiene in our winery and we’re always finding ways to improve our process. It is not uncommon for us to produce totally additive free white wine (which is notoriously…

Ned Goodwin is a former sommelier, wine communicator and Master of Wine at Langton’s. @nedgoodwinmw I was speaking to a dear friend over the summer break, an importer and specialist of Spanish wines from as far afield as Catalonia, Galicia, Andalusia and the fashionable Gredos. After working for eons with French wines, he expressed his enthusiasm for all things Spanish, an exciting wine culture set in motion by the transition to democracy in 1975, following the passing of Franco. While certain bastions of Old World propriety remain, the country strides toward a society free of the bureaucratic paper shuffling and pompous anachronisms that mar other wine cultures close by. Spain has learnt from a past, long stifled by autocratic grappling, to become a symbol of free-thinking optimism. It possesses a…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Crab pil pil pasta SERVES 4 //PREP TIME 10 MINS //COOK 18 MINS 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil2 fresh bay leaves4 garlic cloves, crushed1 tsp finely grated lemon rind¼ tsp dried chilli flakes400 gm frozen raw blue swimmer crab meat, thawed, picked1 tbsp lemon juice400 gm orecchiette¼ cup (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsleyleaves, finely choppedLemon wedges, to serve 1 Combine oil, bay leaves, 1 tsp sea salt flakes, garlic, lemon rind and chilli flakes in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until oil is fragrant and just simmering (10 minutes). Add crab meat and lemon juice and simmer until the crab is just cooked through (8 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, cook pasta in boiling salted water until al dente (8-10 minutes). Drain reserving ½…

As part of my intensely privileged and highly personalised post-lockdown recovery program, I spent 2022 working remotely. After a couple of isolating and insular years, I resolved to prioritise two things: the people I love (who happen to be inconveniently smattered around the globe) and newness, glorious newness. As to the first, I rented Airbnbs close to family members in California and Ireland, and spent happy months running around with nieces and nephews, “saving” beached jellyfish and being asked important questions such as, “Is Jupiter made of burps”? Much as I’d hoped, this rapidly re-socialised me, and the loneliness of living alone during lockdowns finally felt like a weird memory, rather than a horrible reality I was doomed to live forever. But on top of missing the people I love…

GT team favourite…

We all know that winter is the season for pruning fruit trees, right? Well, yes and no. Pruning fruit trees at different times of the year encourages different growth responses in the tree. It can make them grow faster or slower, bigger or smaller, or make them more or less fruitful. We can use this knowledge to manipulate how our trees grow, for their benefit, as well as our own. The end of January until early March (depending on your local climate) is the best time to undertake “summer pruning” of deciduous fruit trees such as apples, pears, plums, apricots, peaches and cherries. Summer pruning has a different effect on deciduous fruit trees, compared with winter pruning. To understand why, we need to think about their annual growth cycle. In…

FLYING FISH A modern Australian seafood restaurant focusing on local and sustainable seafood, Flying Fish at The Star Sydney specialises in preparing its fresh fish produce both raw and cooked simply over a wood fire. In fact, this affinity with wood fire is one reason chef Adam Hall wanted to add the Leeuwin Coast Akoya to his menu – the other being its native, sustainable and carbon neutral qualities. “As a kid I enjoyed fishing and foraging along the beach,” explains Hall. “Having that close connection to the land and nature inspired me to always seek out the best quality and highlight Australian produce.” He finds the Akoya especially delicious smoked with paperbark, which complements its creaminess and fresh ocean brininess, with sea lettuce cream and brook trout roe –…

Is the gilda the cause or the effect of Australia’s latest culinary trend? The OG San Sebastián pintxo – a toothpick-skewered ménage à trois of guindilla pepper, olive and anchovy – is not only the snack of the summer but heralds the new Spanish wave cresting on our shores. Lennox Hastie’s Sydney bar Gildas pays homage to the skewered snack. “It’s what the Spanish do so well, taking a small palette of ingredients but making them sing.” The gilda is inescapable (Sydney is littered with examples, including at Newtown’s Continental Delicatessen, Potts Point’s Parlar and Coogee’s Una Más). But carbon dating the Spanish conquest of Antipodean palates requires a step further back in time. MoVida and its chef Frank Camorra are often credited with introducing Melbourne, and Australia, to tapas…

Subtlety isn’t in the Bar Louise playbook. Sophistication? Si. Consideration? Claro. But subtlety only dulls the “party in the mouth” scenario diners have lapped up since the tapas bar opened in September. If you’ve been to one of Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate’s establishments before you’d expect such fireworks. “Ever since Bodega opened [in 2006] this has been our cooking style,” says Milgate, referencing the duo’s first venue, now Wyno x Bodega. And while the chefs forged their names on Latin cuisine, notably at Porteño, this time they’re going for “something more Spanish,” says Abrahanowicz. “A bit Mediterranean,” adds Milgate. Coming to the fiesta is executive chef Marcelo Munoz, formerly of Continental Deli (a half sibling in this blended family of venues). Munoz has taken Abrahanowicz and Milgate’s three-part menu…

Four spectacular Spanish islands, with four very different flavours, all clustered together in the shimmering Mediterranean Sea. The Balearic Islands (Islas Baleares) have dazzled holidaymakers for decades, and for good reason. Ibiza has historically been the party island, Mallorca the crowd-pleasing holiday resort, Menorca the hiking haven and Formentera the tiny, remote outpost. In recent summers, however, all four islands have undergone a quiet reinvention, and the Balearic Islands are ripe for rediscovery by international travellers. This is the time to visit, as they settle comfortably into their new, more grown-up, and entirely distinct identities. Here’s our guide to the best of the Balearics. MALLORCA: CULTURE, CUISINE AND CINEMATIC SCENERY Mallorca has always been the big-hitter holiday hotspot, a multifaceted paradise offering holidaymakers everything from awe-inspiring mountain scenery and hiking…

If you head to the west of Spain and continue past the unpatrolled border, you will find yourself in Portugal, a country built on legend and glory. On the west coast, a lazy three-hour drive from Spain’s Mérida is Lisbon, a capital city rife with adventure. Said to have been discovered by Odysseus in a burst of lightning and fire, Lisbon invites wanderers to stroll down wonky cobblestone roads, between towering buildings in every rainbow shade, and discover hidden restaurants serving sweet pastéis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts), or local favourite bacalhau (dried and salted cod). If it’s respite you seek, a meandering three-hour car journey from Lisbon takes you to the seaside town of Olhão on the Algarve coast. In this sweet town, the welcoming sun warms white sandy…