Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2022 i Gourmet Traveller

Happy Birthday to us! This issue, we are celebrating another milestone in the history of GT, as we mark 55 years of the magazine. In truth, the official anniversary was last year but thanks to lockdowns and Covid, we were a bit late to the party. Of course, we could have let it pass unnoticed but where’s the fun in that? Plus, in the world of magazines 55 years is a BIG deal. A lifetime and then some. And frankly, surviving the past couple of years has taken a lot of hard work and more sleepless nights than I care to recall. So yes, we deserve a party. And fluoro cocktails. And fondue! You’ll find all of those things in this colourful retro cracker of an issue, which has been…

Norah Head, NSW Boarding a four-seater plane from the Central Coast Aero Club was an experience like no other. The tiny plane was minimal in tech but the knowledgeable pilot and coastal vistas made for a memorable journey. Jordan Kretchmer, news editor Silver Sands Beach Club, Aldinga Beach, SA This charming, sun-soaked beach club is run by hospitality legends Nick Stock and Mark Kamleh, who offer everything from beer to top notch wine. On the food front, head chef Alessandro Gramazio serves up freshly shucked oysters and line-caught char-grilled cape calamari. Katie Spain, SA state editor. RAAS Rajmahal, Jaipur Life imitated art as the Rajmahal staff checked umbrellas against an umbrella wallpaper backdrop. It’s one of dozens of custom wall coverings at this hotel, which was once home to a…

Why are you excited about this new chapter? I’m really excited to join Nomad and work with Jacqui Challinor, who’s the executive chef. To collaborate with a friend and someone that I’ve admired for a long time is amazing, especially after finishing Stanbuli. Beau will have two sections. How will that work? We’re going to have a casual eatery facing Reservoir Street, with a beautiful custom-built oven where we’re going to be doing man’ouche, which is the Lebanese flatbread. It’s a very casual eatery that’s geared for takeaway or eat in. Then you can also enter from Foster Street. When you walk up the laneway you’ve got the Beau Bar. It’s a wine bar and we are going to be doing really beautiful snacks and more contemporary cuisine. What can…

Kitchen Sync x Flour and Stone is a collaboration between chef Jane Strode (pictured) and baker Nadine Ingram. Friends for more than 20 years, Strode originally started Kitchen Sync years ago as a side hustle. Now it’s back and being dished out via the Flour and Stone kitchen. The range includes Strode’s super green sauce, which she developed while working at Two Good Co, alongside smoked garlic mayo, vegan spiced coconut labne and a classic tomato jam. Like much of Strode’s food, these condiments pack a flavour punch, while also being thoughtful and considered. From $15, flourandstone.com.au…

Thunderstorms weren’t enough to rain on our parade as Gourmet Traveller celebrated the 2023 Restaurant Awards at Shell House in Sydney, bringing the industry together in the Harbour City for the first time since 2019. The party began with a bustling cocktail hour in the Sky Bar, before guests headed downstairs to feast on an indulgent menu prepared by Shell House chefs Joel Bickford and Aaron Ward, featuring everything from crab and caviar, to perfectly cooked aged Txuleta beef. Industry veterans such as Neil Perry, Andrew McConnell and Ben Shewry mingled alongside rising stars, such as Dennis Yong and Helly Raichura, showcasing the breadth of talent and creativity to be found across Australian dining today. Victoria’s Thi Le made history becoming the first woman ever to win Chef of the…

CHÂTEAU DES FERRAGES Roumery Côtes de Provence 2021 A lovely translucent salmon pink colour lifts to peach and citrus scents with vibrant peach and fresh raspberry on the palate. Grilled prawns, garlic even a touch of chilli would pair perfectly. TORPEZ À SAINT TROPEZ Bravade Côtes de Provence 2021 Handpicked and made using only gravity in the winery, the Bravade has citrusy freshness, a lively redcurrant note, and a slight salt tang that will handle grilled fish and shellfish perfectly. FAMILLE RAVOIRE Manon Côtes de Provence 2021 Honeysuckle and jasmine blossom on the nose, building power and peachiness on the palate. Will handle richer flavours well, perfect with barbecued lamb cutlets and garlicy chicken.…

PETER WATSON HORSERADISH GRATED This grated horseradish serves as an ingredient more than a condiment, with the root preserved in a zippy vinegar. The coarse grate and powerful aroma makes this horseradish prime for creams, sauces and braises. $15.95 for 250gm, culinaryclub.com.au NEWMAN’S ORIGINAL HORSERADISH Hailing from the largest horseradish farm in Australia, this punchy paste is balanced out by a sweetened condensed milk. Restraint is everything here as the raw minced root packs a real punch so a little bit goes a long way. $6.25 for 250gm, harrisfarm.com.au ZIMMY’S HORSERADISH This slightly sweet horseradish is made in the Barossa Valley and has a smooth texture and slightly pickled taste. Lighter and brighter than other versions available, it would be excellent on sandwiches, or sit well on a cheese platter.…

Blacksmith and artist Matt Mewburn’s big heart, skillful hand and raw passion can be felt, seen and touched throughout Lucky Kwong. I met Matt through my wife Nell and felt an immediate draw to his soulful energy. You can see Matt’s craftsmanship in our signage, table numbers and art. And you can hear Matt’s strong sense of respect when he talks about his treasured Eveleigh Works, its historic significance and its role in shaping local community. Don’t tell Matt Mewburn blacksmithing is dead. In his eyes – and callused hands – the pulse is strong and steady. We’re standing in his Eveleigh Works workshop in the 130-year-old locomotive shed where Australia’s first railways were forged. There are Victorian-era anvils and presses all around us, an impossibly high raked ceiling above…

In theory, anyone can make a gilda. You get an olive, an anchovy, an acid-green guindilla pepper and you wriggle them onto a toothpick. Done. With that in mind I felt a smidge cynical about the gilda I’d get at Gildas, Lennox Hastie’s new wine and pintxos bar, an olive stone’s throw from his fire-fuelled flagship, Firedoor. He’s named the whole venue for this uncooked, ingredient-only snack but could he really blow me away with some things from a tin? Well, he did. I knew Hastie, along with head chef Zach Elliott-Crenn, had spent months auditioning olives (and other ingredients too) before he opened the doors to their 60-seater venue, and it shows. The balance in this single bite was bang-on: the gentle savouriness of the Olasagasti anchovy, the soft…

The pubs of Australia have gone through a lot. The six o’clock swill. The christenings. The wakes. The rock gigs in the back room. Drinks in between the ceremony and the reception. The footy grand final wins and grand final losses. The wedges, sweet chilli and sour cream era. A global pandemic. But despite what life throws at them, Aussie pubs persevere, twisting and turning and adapting to better reflect and serve their communities. As Australia prepares for life post-Covid, new-generation publicans have been rethinking both the role and potential of the pub. What if instead of poker machines, you created opportunities for musicians? What if you said no to multinational breweries, but yes to local brewers and vignerons? What if you expanded the definition of pub grub to include…

Village salad SERVES 4 AS A SIDE “This is a pretty simple Greek salad; what makes it unique are the barley rusks. You can substitute rusks for croutons,” says Ella Mittas. 2 Lebanese cucumbers4 tomatoes½ red onion100 gm feta4 barley rusks, broken into bite-sized pieces2 cups picked purslane DRESSING ¼ cup olive oil2 tbsp balsamic reduction1 tbsp pomegranate molasses1 tbsp red wine vinegar1 garlic clove, sliced 1 To make dressing, combine ingredients in a bowl, and leave for an hour or so to let the garlic steep. 2 Cut tomatoes and cucumbers into similar-sized pieces. I cut my tomatoes into eighths, and cucumbers on the diagonal, turning the cucumber as I go to form triangle-ish pieces. 3 Slice red onion as thinly as possible and add to a bowl with…

Rosé season As the days get longer and the nights warmer, it can mean just one thing: rosé season. And when it comes to a blushing pink drop, we can’t go past a classic Provençal rosé – famous for its bright berry flavours and refreshing acidity. The Greek Providore Also celebrating a birthday this month, the Greek Providore is turning two. Heroing Greek artisans, the online grocer sells all manner of premium produce, including this oh-so-chic Ladolea organic olive oil. thegreekprovidore.com.au Four Pillars Double Gin Martini Combining two of the distillery’s signature gins - Olive Leaf and Fresh Yuzu - this pre-batched Martini makes for dangerously easy drinking. Keep it in the fridge for instant aperitivi. fourpillarsgin.com Single O Sludge Cups Goodbye single-use, hello Single O. The sustainability focused coffee…

Ever curious podcaster, GT contributor and journalist Lee Tran Lam offers a new hungry take on history via her audio series, the Culinary Archive. Each episode is centred around an ingredient – including oysters, tomatoes and brewer’s yeast – and draws upon the Powerhouse Museum’s 500,000-plus collection of objects as inspiration. Idiosyncratic and interesting finds include a Ken Done pasta sauce from the 1990s (for an episode where we explore tomatoes); Vegemite’s PR nightmare that was iSnack 2.0; and news archives documenting the 1960s feminist fight for women to be allowed in public bars in pubs (they were only allowed in the ladies lounge). Chefs including Shannon Martinez, Aalia’s Paul Farag and Joseph Vargetto, also pop in to chat about the modern context of ingredients. maas.museum/event/culinary-archive-podcast/…

Here at Gourmet Traveller, we’ve been celebrating the art of entertaining for more than 55 years; the drinks, the food, the mood. And we know that nothing brings a soirée to life quite like a well-dressed table, which is why we adore Maison Balzac and its vibrant, joyful approach to glass and tableware. So when we learned that the Sydney-based design house was also celebrating a special birthday this year – turning 10 years old – it was the perfect excuse to collaborate and create something special. The result is the Pompom wine glasses in teal and azure – as featured on this month’s cover and available exclusively from Maison Balzac – designed to bring a little fun and flair to your next dinner. We know you’ll love them as…

Our love of pale and dry rosé shows no sign of slowing down and the original home of rosé, Provence in the South of France, is leading the way with exceptional winemaking, sustainable viticulture and wines of real character. Celebrated for its many shades of pink, wonderfully perfumed aromas, unequalled versatility and the uniqueness and elegance of its bottles, Provence rosé is taking over the world, Australia included. But what makes it so good? Know your Provence Rosé Rosé from Provence is known for being elegant, pale, dry, aromatically complex, and always balancing fruit characters with vibrant acidity. The wines must be blends of at least two grape varieties, specifically selected for their suitability with the terroir, such as Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, each grape bringing its own distinct…

CHÂTEAU SAINTE ROSELINE Roseline Prestige Côtes de Provence 2021 This organically farmed Côtes de Provence is made from Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah. Balancing fresh natural acidity with ripe strawberry, peach and dried thyme notes makes the Roseline the first Provence bottle to open for a long alfresco lunch with friends. MAISON SAINT AIX AIX Rosé Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2021 Just a whiff of the fresh and candied red fruits from a glass of AIX place you in classic Provence territory. Cranberry, blackberry and wild strawberry wrap around the fresh acidity and oyster shell minerality. Great length, and super refreshing! Made for long lunches. FIGUIERE Magali Signature Côtes de Provence 2021 Fresh and bright, loaded with just pressed peach and apricot juice, a cranberry tang and a long finish make the Magali a…

I travelled a lot for my job as a tennis player – and I’m definitely not being a sookie lala, it was a great job – but you don’t see much. I’m talking tennis courts, car, hotel, Uber Eats, every day. I’ve been to Italy a bunch of times and never been out of the hotel. So to be able to go away on a holiday in July was awesome, especially with [my partner] Chantelle. In Lake Como, we got to go out on a boat, and it was unbelievable. Such a beautiful experience. Amsterdam is another favourite destination. I’m half Dutch, so maybe I’m biased, but there’s something about Amsterdam – you can do whatever you want there. There’s food, wine, culture, parks, canals. It’s such a great place,…

Brandy and white crème de menthe: unlikely bedfellows, some might say. Together in equal parts, however, they form the basis of the Stinger – a minty-sweet bracer with a glittery, well-documented history that predates Prohibition. Said to have come about at the turn of the 20th century, the stiff classic is often attributed to American millionaire Reginald Vanderbilt, which goes a long way towards explaining its popularity among elite social circles in the 1920s. Over the ensuing decades, the hearty digestif became something of a pop culture icon, a beverage of choice for Cary Grant in comedies like The Bishop’s Wife and Kiss Them for Me, and none other than James Bond in Ian Fleming’s novels Diamonds Are Forever and Thunderball. While the drink fell out of fashion in the…

Before any discussion of Chauncy’s elegant, light and foliage-filled dining room in a Gold Rush-era surveyor’s office, its vintage crockery and cutlery, fastidiously ironed linen tablecloths or the impressive CVs of owners Tess Murray and Louis Naepels (Melbourne restaurants like Cutler & Co and Grossi Florentino, and a restaurant they ran in the Basque region of France), we must first talk about the chou farci. Louis Naepels’ version of the traditionally rustic French pork-stuffed cabbage leaf dish lands about halfway through Chauncy’s menu du jour, providing emphatic confirmation that something special is happening in this beautifully restored building in Heathcote. The pork, deftly minced, seasoned and wrapped in a velvety cabbage leaf, is free-range Berkshire from local producer McIvor. The parcel is accompanied by an exquisite, caramel-coloured pork stock-based sauce…

HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU online / mobile / instore BARISTA QUALITY From your morning espresso to an afternoon ristretto, the compact Breville the Barista Express™ Impress Coffee Machine delivers user-friendly precision, grinding your beans perfectly then transferring them directly into the portafilter whilst delivering the perfect dose and assisted tamp with less mess and fuss. Electronic PID temperature control offers increased temperature stability, and Breville’s unique Impress™ Puck system ensures a perfect water-to-pressure ratio for café-quality coffee, every time. TIP: If you’re serious about your coffee, a manual machine lets you create rich, flavour some coffee exactly the way you like it. Skip the line at the café and espresso yourself! FROM HOT CHOCOLATE TO ICED COFFEE, THE JURA Z10 AUTOMATIC COFFEE MACHINE LETS YOU EXPERIMENT WITH HOT AND COLD DRINKS TO TAKE YOU…

In the very first scene of Mad Men, the 1960s-era drama series which premiered in 2007, the cool and unknowable lead character, ad man Don Draper, sits at a table in a corner of a bar working on his pitch for Lucky Strike cigarettes. The room is noisy and packed with men in suits, downing a Martini or three before they go home to their wives. Cocktail waiters in white cropped jackets and black bowties move among the tables. As the camera pans to the bar, we see that every person seated around it is smoking furiously, even the women, while they clinch long stemmed Martini glasses or tumblers of hard liquor. New York bars in the Mad Men era were clearly health hazards. And yet, when the series launched…

We speak to Anthony Femia of Melbourne cheese shop Maker and Monger to get the lowdown on how to host the perfect fondue party. What do you need to ensure a fondue night goes off without a hitch? You definitely need a fondue pot and burner. Getting everyone to help make the fondue by gradually adding handfuls of cheese to the warm wine and constantly stirring is a great party engager and conversation starter. Tell us about your fondue mix, what roles do each of the different cheeses play? I always use a mix of different types of alpine cheeses in my fondue mix. Comté for its creamy texture and sweetness when melted and then Swiss Gruyère, which everyone sells for the bulkiness and richness of the fondue. Fontina Val d’Aosta…

1 The Astor Motel, Albury, NSW Spruced up by Techn? architects (who also did Lee Ho Fook, Long Chim and Movida) the Astor Hotel Motel Albury combines mid-century modern exteriors with old-school hospitality. Alongside the 40-room motel, you’ll also find a bistro with 28 draught beer taps, a dry-aged beef cabinet and lush beer garden. astorhotelalbury.com.au 2 Loea, Maroochydore, Qld This petite but personable 10-room hotel on the Sunshine Coast offers laidback luxury. The reception doubles as a coffee van and cocktail bar, and cruiser bikes are on offer to all guests so they can explore the nearby beaches and ever growing dining scene. loea.com.au 3 Motel Molly, Mollymook, NSW The reimagining of this Mollymook mainstay sees the small rooms of the former Surfbeach Motel reconfigured into open and bright…

This month, Veuve Clicquot uncorks its impossibly chic take on the “solaire” lifestyle with the launch of Hotel Clicquot, an ultra-luxe pop-up hotel in Noosa, Queensland. Thought to be a test case for a global rollout, the pop-up translates the LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) brand to an immersive experience and Australia is treated to its first taste. After a 2021 preview just outside Byron Bay, the second iteration is an elegant expression of Madame Clicquot’s celebratory drop in a beachfront mansion. As it turns out 2022 is a great vintage for Hotel Clicquot, which enlisted David Moyle (Harvest Newrybar and ex-Franklin) for dinner service; a Garden Gastronomy dégustation matched with La Grande Dame Champagnes. Special mention goes to the kelp-wrapped tuna matched with a huge (and incredibly rare) three-litre…

CHÂTEAU DE L’ESCARELLE Jardin des Secrets Coteaux Varois en Provence 2021 All wild strawberry and citrus fruit on the nose, the wine opens up with briary red fruit on the palate, showcasing Coteaux Varois en Provence’s richer character pair this with charcuterie, terrines and summer vegetable tarts. CHÂTEAU MONT REDON Saint Max Côtes de Provence 2021 What makes a perfect picnic Provence Rose? Keeping things fresh and fruity with plenty of thirst-quenching acidity are key. The Saint Max delivers in spades, perfect with snacks, olives and salty things. CHÂTEAU DU CARRUBIER Clara Côtes de Provence 2021 A blend of Grenache and Shiraz all hand harvested from sloping vineyards literally a stone’s throw to the ocean, give this Côtes de Provence a saline tang, balancing the orange zest and fresh raspberry…

CHÂTEAU LES MESCLANCES Saint Honorat Côtes de Provence 2021 A pretty pale onion skin colour the wine shows grapefruit, peach and some mandarin rind notes, wrapping themselves in a long fine mineral finish and mouth filling viscosity. Elegance personified, perfect with roasted tomato tartlets, goat’s cheese or simply let it unfold in the glass. CHÂTEAU LA COSTE Grand Vin Rosé Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2021 Building such complexity and texture in a wine take real skill. Raspberry and redcurrant interplay with amaro notes and a touch of warm spice, but still fresh and bright all the way to the finish. Grilled meats, cream sauces all taken in the La Coste’s stride. CHÂTEAU DE SAINT MARTIN Grande Réserve Côtes de Provence 2021 Get your guests talking with the Grande Réserve and its moreish…

As spring turns into summer, we celebrate the return of mangoes to our markets. Fresh mangoes were almost unknown in southern Australia when I was a child. They were more likely to be found, somewhat over-sweetened, in tins. Their uncompromising exotic flavour was not to everybody’s taste. In my family, one aunty was often remarked upon for “liking mangoes”; the black sheep of the family. Nowadays, fresh mangoes are available all over Australia and New Zealand, and it seems we have all come to like them. Perhaps a little practice was all that was needed. Mangoes were domesticated in the area between northern India and Burma, a region that also gave us citrus fruits and eggplant. Mangoes belong to the same plant family as some other valuable food items: cashew…

H by Hine VSOP Cognac An entry-level alternative to bottlings from “Big Four” houses, designed to add stone-fruit, vanillin depth and caramel sweetness to cocktails. $89.95 for 700ml danmurphys.com.au Hennessy VS Cognac In terms of straight-shooting benchmarks that don’t break the bank, few Cognacs hold a candle to the world’s bestseller. $70 for 700ml kentstreetcellars.com.au Pierre Ferrand 1840 Original Formula Cognac Higher proof adds oomph to this mature yet approachable expression, with notes of beeswax, dates and almonds. $100 for 700ml nicks.com.au…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Pastrami and spiced fennel slaw sandwich SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINS 4 thick slices country-style white sourdough Cultured butter, to spread Dijon mustard, to spread Baby snow pea tendrils, to serve250 gm shaved pastrami (we use LP’s Quality Meats)4 slices provolone SPICED FENNEL SLAW 2½ tbsp Sherry vinegar1½ tsp crushed Aleppo pepper2 tsp honey60 ml (¼ cup) lemon-infused extra-virgin olive oil1 baby fennel, trimmed, shaved lengthways1 Lebanese cucumber, shaved lengthways1 large golden shallot, shaved into rings¼ cup each (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley and dill leaves 1 For spiced fennel slaw, place vinegar, pepper, honey and oil in a large bowl, season to taste and whisk to combine. Add remaining ingredients and toss to coat; set aside until ready to…

Sticky coronation duck with mango salad SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 2 HRS Coronation chicken, flavoured with a curry powder mayonnaise, was invented in 1953 for Queen Elizabeth II. This modern version features duck and a tangy mango salad. ¾ tsp curry powder½ tsp garam masala1 tsp finely grated lemon rind1 tbsp finely grated ginger2 garlic cloves, crushed80 gm (¼ cup) mango chutney1 tbsp tamarind concentrate6 duck Marylands1 lemon, halved80 ml (⅓ cup) vegetable oil4 sprigs curry leaves150 gm soft white bread, crusts removed, cut into 1.5cm cubes1 green mango (300gm), peeled and shaved into ribbons2 firm mangoes (350gm each), peeled and thinly sliced1 cup each (loosely packed) coriander leaves and mesclun salad Whole-egg mayonnaise, to serve 1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Place curry powder, garam…

It’s a wake-up call like no other. As we luxuriate in the warmth and comfort of our stateroom, grateful for the blackout blinds that shut out the perma-daylight of June in the Arctic Circle, the dulcet French tones of our commandant, Captain Patrick Marchesseau, take over our room. “Good morning passengers,” he croons, a little after eight o’clock. “So, we have made good progress overnight and we will soon be entering the ice.” On any other ship, those words should rightfully spark fear and panic. But this is no Titanic. This is Le Commandant Charcot and the very reason we are here – on the world’s first Polar Class 2 passenger icebreaker – is to travel further north than any passenger ship before us. By comparison, every other passenger expedition…

Sardi’s Restaurateur Vincent Sardi opened his eponymous restaurant in its current theatre district location in 1927. As a gimmick, he hired Russian émigré Alex Gard to draw caricatures of its showbiz customers, who congregated there before and after the theatre. There are an estimated 1200 of these whimsical portraits covering the deep red walls and they’re still a huge drawcard for visitors. Happily, when Sardi’s survived the shutdown of Broadway during the pandemic its slightly tired interiors had a restoration. Head for the quieter second-floor bar where the legendary Joe Petrsoric has poured Martinis since 1972. 234 West 44th Street King Cole Bar The modern, spicy version of the Bloody Mary was supposedly first created at this classic drinking spot, which is tucked away in the Astor Court restaurant in…

It’s dinner. You’re somewhere fabulous and dressed for the occasion. You’re raising a glass by its elegant stem when the moment of truth presents itself. It’s right about now that the focus is all fingertips. If you’ve done your due diligence, well, you can toast to the win. If not, you might feel a lull in personal swagger. Our hands have a make-or-break effect on overall polish and they have had a rough ride over the past couple of years. Aside from the long spells without professional manicurists, they’ve been soaped, and sanitised and soaped again. The handwashing will, of course, continue, but that won’t stop us from getting them back to their best. The first step to rehabbing ragged hands is to moisturise – often. While a nightly slather…