Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2022 i Gourmet Traveller

What a difference a year makes. This time last year, we were in the middle of a seemingly endless lockdown, frantically debating whether to go ahead with our annual Restaurant Awards as the industry remained shuttered. This year, as we announce our 2023 finalists, the industry is buzzing. Tourists are back, dining rooms are full, and new openings continue to raise the bar and prove that the Australian dining is some of the most dynamic and creative in the world. That’s not to downplay the ongoing struggles plaguing the industry – from chronic staff shortages to brutal price hikes – but compared to the state of the industry last year, things are much brighter. And so, it is our great pleasure to celebrate the industry this month and single out…

Kaua`i, Hawi`i The dramatic Kalalau Valley is one of the deepest and most recognisable on the Nā Pali coastline. The craggy ridges draw in moisture making for an ever-changing climate, meaning you could see clouds, blue skies and rainbows all within an hour. Jordan Kretchmer, writer The Arctic Circle A crisper glass of Champagne, you will never find. This moment marked our arrival at the 81st parallel north – around 900kms from the North Pole – aboard Le Commandant Charcot. Unforgettable. Joanna Hunkin, editor Lyon, France Our journey to Provence was punctuated with a sojourn at the freshly transformed InterContinental Hotel Dieu in Lyon, where 18th-century design, luxurious details and panoramic views of the Rhône made for a memorable stay. Karlie Verkerk, deputy editor Heifer Station vineyard, Orange Exploring the…

Chef Tony Schifilliti started growing koji (cooked rice, grains or beans that have been inoculated with a fermentation culture) to create miso, soy sauce and garum from home back in 2020. “At first it was just for fun, and to further my knowledge as a chef, but after a few months of doing so I became obsessed,” says Schifilliti. Now Cura Seasonings is the result of these trials, a range of peppy, koji-based condiments. There’s a malty, savoury black garlic paste, which bolsters a roast chook when rubbed under the skin with butter, and an umami salt that will give oomph to anything from avocado on toast to hot chips. The seasonings are also making an appearance on menus; be it Porcine’s raw tuna with liquid mushroom shio koji; or…

AUSTRALIA Following a $6 million refresh, Spicers Tower Lodge has been reborn in the Hunter Valley. Retaining the property’s Spanish mission-inspired architecture with cloistered walkways, terracotta tiles and timber beams, the 14 rooms have fresh bathrooms, alongside fireplaces, alfresco hot tubs and vineyard views. In-house restaurant Sebastian offers a five-course set menu that draws on dishes from the Basque region and uses Hunter Valley produce to create a changing menu, with guests who stay more than four days promised a personalised menu. In Queensland Hotel Indigo Brisbane has opened in riverside North Quay with 212 design-focused rooms. The hotel commissioned Queensland artists to look after murals and paintings throughout the hotel, including a large-scale work by artist Blends, which nods to Brisbane-based author Trent Dalton. A lobby-dwelling coffee cart and…

Last spring, I wrote about the phenomenon gardeners call the “hungry gap”; that time in spring when the birds are singing, the sun is shining, but the vegetable garden is bare. Winter veggies have all finished, but summer crops have not yet come on. We are compensated for this hiccup in the harvest schedule by the brief appearance of a few special treats. One is the globe artichoke. Not to be confused with its distant cousin the Jerusalem artichoke, which is a root vegetable, the globe artichoke resembles a small, fleshy cabbage. It is a member of the daisy family, related to lettuce, radicchio, and the Australian native yam daisy, which has been a staple of southern Australian Indigenous diets since time immemorial. Artichokes grow wild on the shores of…

When it comes to chasing the hair of the dog, some people swear by bubbles – a Spritz, Champagne or an ice-cold beer. Then there are others who believe the cure lies in something more substantial, like an Espresso Martini or the almighty Bloody Mary. Those limbering up for a long brunch, in search of a way to bring together some of columns A and B, might want to consider the Michelada. The drink hails from Mexico, where it’s known as a “cerveza preparada” – less a specific beverage than an entire category, comprising beer (usually an everyday lager) mixed with fresh citrus, salt and other ingredients. What designates a Michelada is the use of hot sauce. Purists might stick to just a few ingredients, while others often employ the…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Blistered tomato, potato and truffle salami breakfast bread SERVES 4-6 //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 20 MINS (PLUS STANDING, PROVING) 7 gm sachet dried yeast2 tsp caster sugar330 ml warm milk of choice400 gm ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling2 chat potatoes, very thinly sliced24 thin slices truffle salami (see note)500 gm cherry truss tomatoes2 tbsp thyme leaves, plus extra leaves to serve 1 Place yeast, sugar and milk in a jug and stir to combine. Stand in a warm place until foamy (15 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, place flour and 1 tsp fine salt in a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook and mix on low speed to combine. Gradually add in milk…

Ricotta, pea and parmesan crespelle SERVES 6 //PREP TIME 10 MINS //COOK 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING) 125 gm plain flour, sifted250 ml (1 cup) milk40 gm melted butter, plus extra for brushing2 eggs, lightly beaten150 gm baby frozen peas, thawed, chopped450 gm fresh ricotta, drained50 gm finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve1 tsp finely grated lemon zest1 egg, extra¼ cup (loosely packed) each flat-leaf parsley and tarragon, finely chopped Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling500 gm cherry truss tomatoes Sliced prosciutto, to serve 1 For crespelle, place flour in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, melted butter, eggs and a pinch of salt. Gradually add milk mixture to flour, whisking until smooth; cover and refrigerate (1 hour). 2 Place peas in a bowl with ricotta, parmesan, lemon…

For the uninitiated, Istanbul can seem like a lawless place – the kind of city where vibrant yellow taxis weave erratically between pedestrians, seagulls mug you for your simit on ferries, and Okey tiles tumble against tabletops in bars and cafés long after your hotel lights have dimmed. The smoke-scented chaos is often part of the charm, but happily for those who need a little reprieve, the antidote arrives daily in the form of kahvaltı, a meal that calls the locals – as well as a few insatiable visitors – into heaving eateries to share food (and many, many openly expressed feelings), with family, friends and colleagues. For the experience-hungry traveller, kahvaltı is the city’s holy grail. Not just for the food on the table but for the enticement to…

HELLENIKA AT THE CALILE Hellenika had us at “poolside” and the prospect of dining by Brisbane’s sexiest swimming spot still draws us in. But The Calile’s flagship delivers substance to go with all that style. For morning seatings, Simon Gloftis’s team serves an inventive menu with a produce-centred Greek spin. Modern classics like the Eggs with Eggs with Eggs (boiled eggs, taramasalata and bottarga) go equally well with Greek coffee, or a Bellini if the mood strikes. hellenika.com.au PAPER DAISY AT HALCYON HOUSE Breakfast is the best time of day at this retro-luxe haven on Cabarita beach. The experience is reserved for in-house guests but if the price of admission is a night of upbeat elegance, we’re in. The à la carte menu riffs on wholesome chia puddings with nashi…

Apulian Skies We may still be welcoming spring but Alex and Trahanas have us ready to fire up the grill and prepare an alfresco feast with their newest collection, inspired by the ancient olive groves and sparkling seas of Puglia. Bellissimo. alexandtrahanas.com Never Never x Maybe Sammy It’s no secret the team at Maybe Sammy makes some of the best cocktails in Australia. So it’s little surprise its new collaboration with Never Never Distilling – a beeswax and olive gin – is equally award-worthy. neverneverdistilling.com.au Sodastream Art Add a little spritz to your day with this new retro-chic model from Sodastream. Featuring a special carbonation lever for extra pizazz, this groovy number is a welcome addition to any kitchen bench. sodastream.com.au Loco Love Lover’s Box Every bite is a delight…

VICTORIA St Kilda has welcomed Loti, bringing Mediterranean vibes to the seaside suburb. Located within the new Saint Moritz precinct, Loti’s head chef Elijah Holland will showcase the skills he honed while working across Lume, Noma Australia, Aria and Quay, with a focus on fermentation, cooking over fire and coastal ingredients. Think butter-poached lobster pasta, where the whole lobster has been wrapped in kelp and barbecued with lemon scented tea tree; or turbot ribs with sea parsley, grilled lettuce and capers. QUEENSLAND In Port Douglas, the team behind Oaks Kitchen & Garden has opened Jungle Fowl, serving Thai dishes with produce plucked from the Oaks garden. The banquet menu features ma hor (caramelised pork with prawn served on pineapple), Penang curry with beef cheeks and coral trout with nahm jim.…

1. GOODWOOD QUALITY MEATS DRY BOX BACON A smoky, pumpkin-sweet flavour cuts through this wonderful piece of cured meat, the result of being smoked with both beechwood and redgum. The thicker rind-on cut makes it ideal for oven-cooking rather than pan-frying and would be the hero in a BLT or classic bacon and egg roll. $34.99 for 1kg, goodwoodqualitymeats.com.au 2. KUROBUTA PORK X LP’S QUALITY MEATS DRY CURED AND SMOKED STREAKY BACON The glorious fat ratio on this finely sliced and subtly smoked bacon makes it an ideal candidate for carbonara. There’s also a sweetness to it, which would work nicely with waffles and maple syrup or other adventurous salty-sweet combinations. $27.50 for 500gm, vicsmeat.com.au 3. SAUCISSONS AUSTRALIA FREE RANGE SHORT LOIN SMOKED BACON If you’re after a versatile short-cut…

I feel extremely privileged to have connected with artist and activist Sally Scales (APY), a dear friend and young mentor, who smiles directly from her heart. Sally radiates deep, ancient wisdom and respect, through her art practice and the way she communicates and educates on the nation building project, Uluru Statement From The Heart. It’s morning on Kaurna land (Adelaide) and Sally Scales is dialling in with a wake-up call for us all. “We can do more. We can have deeper conversations; lean in harder.” Scales is an artist and an activist, a proud Pitjantjatjara woman from Pipalyatjara in South Australia’s remote Anangu Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands and a mother to six-year-old Walter, who mills around as she speaks. “I can’t believe we still have youth detention centres. I can’t…

For artistic inspiration and an intimate epicurean experience, take a seat at the table for The Culinary Arts Series. Over five consecutive weeks notable chefs from around the country will create their own unique perspective on edible art. The gourmet menus feature complementary beverage stories created by a master sommelier from fine wine connoisseurs Langton’s. The culinary masterpieces will be served in the heart of Winning Appliance showrooms, dishing up plenty of inspiration for living well from the centre and soul of the home. It’s fine fare meets fine art meets fine wine – and you’ll have fine company to enjoy it with, too, sharing the experience with select Gourmet Traveller representatives. Each week features food that reflects the culture of an art movement and the chef’s own ethos. Enjoy…

Stepping into the tight, booth-lined Ciao Mate dining room is like wandering into the kind of candle-lit Roman eatery you might jostle with locals for a table in; checkerboard tiles, Italian tomato tins stacked on benches, linographs of epicurean bacchanals by Sydney artist Allie Webb lining the walls. The journey starts, under advisement from my enthusiastic and brushed-up waiter, with a cocktail from the list of classics and a few snacks; warm focaccia sopping up oozy Byron Bay stracciatella topped with turmeric zucchini pickles and a sprinkling of pine nuts, or a pair of Ortiz anchovies, one pickled, the other salt-cured. Then it’s onto the pizza, where familiar toppings like salami and mozzarella meet habanero-infused honey, and chunks of potato and translucent slivers of guanciale sit on a slick of…

For many, congee is the ultimate comfort food and makes for a delicious breakfast on a chilly winter morning. The rice is cooked in such a way that results in a silky, smooth and luxurious texture. It’s also easy to make ahead and reheat before serving with a little extra stock or water. This version is made with chicken stock and flavoured with ginger, garlic, chilli, and shiitake mushrooms, but you can add any ingredients you have on hand. Step by step 1 For stock, place 4 spring onions cut into 10cm lengths, 50gm sliced ginger, 6 bruised garlic cloves, 100ml fish sauce, 2 tbsp light soy sauce and a 1.5kg chicken (rinsed, patted dry) with approximately 3½ litres cold water in a large stock pot and bring to the…

BEST NEW RESTAURANT SA ARKHÉ, ADELAIDE Chef Jake Kellie is fuelled by fire and since his new baby Arkhé opened in November, he’s worked open flame magic in the Adelaide suburb of Norwood. A stellar team keeps the cogs turning (and devoted lunch and dinner regulars returning). From front of house to sommeliers and the bustling kitchen – the camaraderie is palpable. This restaurant exudes energy; best observed from a perch overlooking the kitchen. It is slick, beautifully designed, and edgy but the welcome is always as warm as the wood-burning oven and elevation grills. In short: So hot right now. VIC DI STASIO CARLTON, MELBOURNE Rinaldo Di Stasio and Mallory Wall’s Carlton outpost is a masterclass in how to do a restaurant right. A series of rooms exuberantly dominated with…

America’s breakfast dishes represent every part of the country’s psyche: inventiveness, immigration, slavery, puritanism, capitalism. It’s 9am on a Tuesday morning in the coastal Southern town of Biloxi, Mississippi, and I’m sitting in a red vinyl booth in a down-home diner called Fill-up with Billups, scanning a menu that looks like it’s doing its best to shorten my life expectancy by several years. Every entry reads like it’s competing with every other to pile up more elements than the one before. One example: “Tender smoked brisket sandwiched between a double order of crispy hash, topped with cheddar-fried jalapeño rings, pico, sour cream, two eggs your way, finished with house BBQ sauce and green onion.” I could add sides if I chose: smoked bacon, grits, breakfast sausage, American cheese. I’d come…

E SPRESSO HIT Coffee colours create a warm and inviting vibe, especially in a breakfast nook.…

GT team favourite…

With lockdowns in the rearview mirror, many pandemic food trends have fizzled out – or have at least gone from a rolling boil to gentle simmer. But chef-made, finish-at-home meals are proving their staying power, with one of the country’s leading restaurant groups entering the game. Fix is a joint venture between Fink Group – whose restaurants include Quay, Bennelong, Firedoor and Otto – and Stix, a sustainability-focused caterer for businesses including Qantas (it makes the airline’s first-class meals), which also has a café in Marrickville and one to come in Hunters Hill. Fix will feature menus developed by some of Australia’s most feted chefs, including Paul Carmichael, Analiese Gregory, Peter Gilmore (pictured) and Lennox Hastie. Each has designed a range of ready-made meals, in a variety of multi-course and…

with ROB LECHOWICZ, BLACKWOOD BONDI One chef you trained under was Tony Bilson. How would you describe your cooking style now? I would definitely describe my style as eclectic, stemming from a strong foundation of classic French technique but also influenced heavily by Mediterranean flavours. Australian breakfast culture is renowned around the world – what makes it so well loved? Aussie breakfast menus are vast, colourful and abundant, not to mention delicious. Our breakfasts become the hero meal of the day, and with such great local produce and ingredients at our disposal in Australia it gives chefs an amazing platform to create menus. On top of this I think we Aussies know how to make breakfast fun. For breakfast, do you opt for sweet or savoury? That’s a tough one,…

I grew up at Whale Beach. In my 20s and 30s I lived in the east [of Sydney] and in my early 30s I moved back to Avalon and have lived there ever since with my husband and my son. It’s so beautiful, you have nature at your doorstep. We’re beach people and we have water all around us. There’s some great little holes in the wall on the northern beaches. There’s a place called Queen Ester Falafel, which opened recently. It’s a really small menu of Israeli street food and it’s just amazing. I think Sydney has one of the best restaurant scenes in the world. I like honest, simple food, I don’t like Michelin-starred dining – that’s not my thing. Apollo would be my number one, and Fred’s…

There is no denying destructive weather patterns across the country have affected farming. Winemakers are not immune to the impacts of climate change and have adopted methods to combat this, from changing which grapes are planted where, to planting more resilient varieties and adopting agricultural practices to withstand the rougher seasons. A benchmark example of a region adopting sustainable viticultural practices is the Margaret River, 270 kilometres south of Perth and home to some iconic biodynamic and organic wineries. Heralded as the “high priestess of biodynamics” in Australia, Vanya Cullen of Cullen Wines comes from a long line of climate advocates. “It’s come from an ancestral energy, which cares about the land. A lineage who fought for human rights and the environment,” says Cullen.“We grew up fighting bauxite mining on…

Filipino food is finally achieving some traction in Melbourne and, if places like Serai are a shape of things to come, it can’t happen fast enough. Perhaps it’s the multiple influences that delayed its local arrival. The Philippines’ distinct and varied Indigenous cuisine has been joined over the centuries with flavours from Spain and Portugal, Japan, China, the United States and Malaysia and, to that broad palette, is added a food culture unafraid to mix and match. It might be a little hard to define from a non-Filipino perspective but that palette and that fearlessness in the hands of an ingenious chef like Ross Magnaye in a stripped back laneway dining room in Melbourne’s CBD, has given us a modern Filipino restaurant that counts as one of this year’s genuinely…

Vegetable and plant consumption is fundamental to good health and, I would argue, a colourful and delicious way to eat. I’ve always found the basic concept of eating vegetables to be magical, especially when you really look at a display of fresh produce and take in the sheer range: the colour, the tastes, the shapes, the textures. How fantastical that we can prepare and consume these beautiful, fascinating things! They are infinitely tempting, and so representative of the changing seasons. Even more astonishing that we should utilise their energy as fuel, benefitting from their vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients, fibre and the like. How can we eat “well” every day? There’s a lot of complicated, patronising noise about what we should be doing and how we should be cooking. I try to…