Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2022 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p118 I once had an argument with a friend about art and whether or not it was essential. In a particularly churlish mood, I argued that while art enhanced life, it was superfluous; humans don’t need art to survive. A decade later, I would like to formally retract that argument. I was wrong. The older I get, the more I’ve come to appreciate the power of art and its ability to help us understand and process the world around us. It connects us and helps us communicate shared experiences. As Lisa Havilah wisely sums it up in this month’s Community x Kylie column: “Art gives life meaning.” Havilah is the chief executive of Sydney’s Powerhouse Museum and the woman who transformed Carriageworks into one of Australia’s…

Bar Mammoni, Sydney The new laneway bar offshoot of Hinchcliff House in Circular Quay reminds you just how fun after-work drinks can be, with the lure of puffy pizzette, a bodacious Spritz selection and service that’ll have you staying for an extra Spritz and snack for certain. Shop 3 Loftus Ln, Sydney, NSW Jordan Kretchmer, writer Lizard Island, Far North Queensland It may have been the wet season but the sun came out to say goodbye as we farewelled this island paradise and enjoyed a sensational scenic flight back to Cairns. No wonder this is one of David Attenborough’s favourite spots in the world. Glorious. Joanna Hunkin, editor Cecconi’s, Melbourne No matter how short our stint in Melbourne is, we always make time for a lunch (usually to refuel mid-shop)…

1 Lard Ass Butter She grew up on a dairy farm but it was a holiday to France that saw Lard Ass owner Monica Cavarsan fall in love with cultured butter. Returning to Australia, she set about making her own, researching and testing extensively. She even travelled to Wisconsin to complete a Butter Makers apprenticeship, before creating her signature recipe. The creamy artisanal butter is made from single batch churned cream, ripened with a starter, before being hand kneaded and wrapped. $12 for 225gm, lardass.com.au 2 CopperTree Farms This widely available but excellent cultured butter has a nice acidity to it, which balances out the natural creaminess of the butter. The salted variety has the stamp of approval from Neil Perry, while Mark Best is behind their signature truffle butter.…

Landing in Mparntwe (Alice Springs) from Sydney is a grounding experience. It feels like coming home. Even as a young child, I recognised the beauty and power of the desert: the deep vibrant colours, the intricate geometry of the landscape, and the arid heat. It’s a sensory overload. As a kid, meals in Alice Springs were about coming together and sharing space as a family. My aunt Rachel [Perkins, the filmmaker] is a beautiful cook and would make us spanakopita, spaghetti Bolognese and salads. I remember going hunting for honey ants, goannas and kangaroos, making damper over the fire, and learning about the medicinal herbs and plants out in the bush. Indigenous people have 60,000 years of knowledge and a finely tuned understanding of how much can be taken from…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Hasselback beetroot and cabbage with dukkah SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS 2 beetroot (220gm each), scrubbed and halved2 tbsp chilli infused extra-virgin olive oil (see note)80 ml (⅓ cup) malt vinegar2 tbsp honey½ sugarloaf cabbage (about 250gm), cut into wedges200 gm store-bought hummus1 cup (firmly packed) baby amaranth leavesDUKKAH2 tbsp smoked almonds, chopped1 tsp pink peppercorns1 tbsp each toasted sesame seeds, cumin and coriander seeds 1 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Using a small sharp knife, thinly slice beetroot widthways just short of cutting through base. Place oil, vinegar and honey in a small bowl and stir to combine. Place beetroot on a large roasting tray lined with non-stick baking paper. Brush liberally with vinegar mixture and season to taste.…

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS RESTING) “This dish is centred around enhancing one ingredient – a good quality steak. We cook it over hot coals and serve with nahm jim jaew, my favourite dipping sauce,” says Mo. 2 T-bone steaks (700gm each), at room temperature2½ tbsp vegetable oilNAHM JIM JAEW2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, finely chopped1 golden shallot, thinly sliced60 ml (¼ cup) lime juice60 ml (¼ cup) fish sauce2 tsp finely grated palm sugar1 tsp chilli flakes2 tsp white rice, toasted, finely ground to a powder 1 For nahm jim jaew, pound lemongrass and shallot in a mortar and pestle to a smooth paste. Add lime juice, fish sauce and palm sugar and stir carefully until combined. Transfer to a serving…

SONNY, HOBART “We’re about good food, good drinks, good service, good music…and then that magic element that brings it all together” says Alister Robertson, manager and record gatekeeper at Hobart wine bar Sonny. Robertson will regularly treat punters (via a set of locally designed Pitt & Giblin speakers) to anything from King Gizzard to Al Green to a little 1970s Japanese funk. Generally, they’ll play half a record and then if it’s going down well, it’ll get flipped for its second side. “It’s about how the room feels, the eye contact,” Robertson says. “And sometimes, before you know it, everyone starts dancing and cheering.” There’s that magic right there. 120a Elizabeth St, Hobart, Tas, sonny.com.au SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS (PLUS STANDING) “We’re fortunate to have some amazing…

SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING, DRYING) “This has been one of my favourite dishes since I became a chef,” says Besseau, who uses a Swiss Gruyère in this classic dish. 40 gm unsalted butter, chopped, plus extra for greasing45 gm plain flour480 ml milk, warmed250 gm finely grated Gruyère, plus extra for scattering2 egg yolks4 egg whites300 ml pouring cream 1 Grease base and sides of six 180ml-capacity soufflé dishes or metal dariole moulds with extra butter. 2 Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add flour and stir continuously until sandy coloured (2-3 minutes). Gradually add milk, beating continuously until smooth, then stir continuously until thick (2-3 minutes). Reduce heat to very low, add half Gruyère and stir continuously until…

SERVES 4 “This is a rich tomato-based entrée or dip that makes a great start to a meal,” says Bero. “The bush tomato adds extra depth of flavour.” 1 kg whole squid, cut into 2.5cm slices, (leave tentacles whole if you like)1 garlic clove, crushed2 large onions, diced1 tbsp vegetable oil500 gm very ripe Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped A pinch of salt1 tbsp ground bush tomato4 mint leaves4 tbsp tomato paste Sea saltbush, to garnish (optional) Fresh bread or taro chips, to serve 1 Boil squid in a saucepan of salted water until partly cooked (7 minutes). 2 In a large pan, brown garlic and onion in oil over high heat, then add tomato to the pan with a pinch of salt, bush tomato and mint leaves. (If you prefer,…

SERVES 4 “This dish is prepared in a similar style to ceviche,” says Bero. “It’s always best to make it with fresh fish straight out of the ocean. The raw fish will cure in the citrus and coconut to create a smooth, fragrant and refreshing starter.” 800 gm kingfish, skin removed1 long red chilli, finely diced¼ bunch coriander, thinly sliced100 ml freshly squeezed lime juice250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut cream (such as Kara)2 tbsp dark soy sauce A pinch of sea salt Taro chips, to serve 1 Slice kingfish into thin sashimi slices and add to a bowl with the chilli, coriander and lime juice. Set aside for 10 minutes 2 Add coconut cream, soy sauce and a pinch of sea salt, then mix together. 3 Marinate in refrigerator…

MAKES A 25CM TART This tart uses bone marrow as one of its prime ingredients and was served at the coronation of King James II in 1685. We know this because of Francis Sandford’s History of the Coronation (1687). Turt de moil appears at number 98 on Sandford’s list of dishes and a plan of the king and queen’s banqueting table even shows us alongside which other dishes it was served: five partridge pies, cold marinated smelts and three soused pigs. 85 gm beef marrow500 ml (2 cups) double cream25 gm raw sugar1 cinnamon stick1 mace blade A pinch of ground nutmeg6 egg yolks½ 375 gm sheet shortcrust pastry (see note)25 gm candied orange peel25 gm candied lemon peel85 gm sponge cake1 tbsp rosewater (or, if you dislike the flavour,…

MAKES 1 PUDDING IN A 17 CM BASIN Mentioning this pudding to people unfamiliar with British food always generates great amusement. Its etymology is the culprit, though an entirely innocent explanation can be provided. “Dick” is simply an old dialect pronunciation of “dough”, just like “duff” in plum duff. 300 gm plain flour130 gm shredded suet50 gm raw sugar A pinch of ground cinnamon1 tsp baking powder1 egg200 ml milk150 g currants, soaked in water, brandy or rum Custard sauce, to serve (see Cabinet pudding recipe) 1 Preheat oven to 160°C. Generously grease the pudding basin with butter and cut a circle of baking paper the same size as the base. Place paper circle in the basin. 2 Combine flour, suet, sugar, cinnamon and baking powder together in a large…

GOURMET APPROVED Tilly’s Table Based in the Blue Mountains, cook and photographer Tilly Pamment combines her two passions to create linens, gift cards and limited-edition prints. tillystable.com.au Uncommon Vodka Scapegrace Distillery has partnered with Neville and Junko Chun, who pioneered growing organic yuzu and umeshu fruit in New Zealand, to produce these two new limited-edition vodka varieties. scapegracedistillery.com Tudor Black Bay GMT With the ability to track three time zones at once, Tudor’s Black Bay GMT is the ultimate watch for travellers. Now available in a steel and gold version, with a choice of three bracelet designs. tudorwatch.com Pasture, Auckland Ed Verner’s acclaimed Parnell restaurant has long been on global radars but there have been big changes since NZ closed ranks to the outside world. With borders now reopened, it’s…

SYDNEY Bondi is set to welcome a newcomer and a returning favourite, with chef Orazio D’Elia reprising his pizza-led bolthole Da Orazio. Some hallmarks of the restaurant will return (including most importantly, the rotisserie porchetta), while new tasty additions include a thoroughly tested and rested pizza dough recipe and a pint-sized new wine bar dubbed Orazietto next door. Nearby Blackwood Bondi will bring fresh talent to the suburb, with the team behind Cronulla’s Blackwood Pantry opening the Bondi outpost. Rounding out the Glenayr Avenue Seven Ways hub, the day-to-night diner is led by chef Rob Lechowicz, who earned his stripes learning from Tony Bilson, before heading to Europe. While there’s an Italian undercurrent to the menu, Australian brunch culture will also play a feature role. Think carrot and sweet potato…

With cookery, you apply a “method” to particular “ingredients”, in order to make food. It’s the same with composting; you combine particular ingredients in the correct proportions, using a bit of technique and intuition, and cook it for the required length of time, to make food for your soil. Traditional “hot composting” is a lot like preparing a lasagne. A lasagne is composed by alternating layers of pasta and sauce. Similarly, a hot compost pile is composed by alternating layers of materials high in carbon, and high in nitrogen. Just like a lasagne, a hot compost heap needs the ingredients to be layered in the correct proportions. Both need to have the correct moisture level prior to cooking. Too much sauce makes the lasagne soupy, while too much pasta renders…

The beauty of the Gimlet lies in its simplicity. The classic recipe, which is said to have originated on British naval ships in the 19th century, calls for a 50-50 mix of gin and Rose’s lime cordial. Not only did the preserved citrus combat scurvy, but it also masked the taste of the unrefined, overproof spirit. While the cocktail persevered, it wasn’t properly embraced until the early 2000s, when revolutionary bars like New York’s Milk & Honey began prioritising craft spirits and fresh produce. Slowly, that equal-parts ratio became a thing of the past as bartenders tinkered with the proportions and uncovered the potential for countless variations. At Gimlet at Cavendish House, Andrew McConell’s latest venture and winner of GT’s Best New Restaurant for 2022, bar manager Cameron Parish makes…

Recently pundits have begun theorising about where is the best place for visitors to experience “new” Brisbane. They might mention The Calile Hotel precinct, or the humming riverfront destination of Howard Smith Wharves – and with reason. But if you’re looking for a venue to show how long the current cultural renaissance has been unfolding, you can’t bypass the Gallery of Modern Art and its culinary flagship. GOMA Restaurant occupies a light-filled corner on the ground floor of Australia’s biggest gallery of contemporary art and one of its most beautiful. It’sanunusualbeast – a government-run restaurant where dishes are regularly good enough to frame. Viewanexhibition, followwith lunch in the glassed-in dining room - or outside on the undercover deck - and you’ll see the capital in a new light. A clipped…

A harmonious balance of both flavour and texture, this popular noodle soup has become a signature dish of Chiang Mai, but has origins in Myanmar, where the Burmese dish ohn no khao swè translates to “coconut milk noodles”. Versions of the dish can be found throughout northern Thailand, Laos and Myanmar but the hallmark that features in every recipe is the curry paste, which forms the heart of this dish. Finally, the secret to a great khao soi is in the toppings, including crunchy bean sprouts and fried noodles and the unmistakable bite of pickled mustard greens. Slices of red onion, cucumber and pickled onion can be added for both colour and contrast, while fresh coriander leaves and a generous squeeze of lime complete the chorus. Step by step 1…

I’m that person who will stop the table talking when a good track comes on. “Is that…is that Bran Van 3000?” I cried on a recent visit to Ursula’s in Sydney’s Paddington, forcing my companion to eat in silence as I basked in this obscure, mid-90s, Canadian one-hit wonder. Music, to me, is as important to a restaurant as its food, its service, its décor. Get it right and customers will sense that the atmosphere feels right in a way they may not even be able articulate. Get it wrong – too loud, bad quality, inappropriate tempo – and expect to clear the room. In fact, music is so powerful that it can influence what you order, how much you spend or even how your food tastes. “There are studies…

MAKES 6 SKEWERS // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS SOAKING) “This dish reminds me of nights out in Tokyo, when we went to my favourite yakitori restaurant for their yaki onigiri (rice grilled over charcoal),” recalls chef-owner Jemma Whiteman. 460 gm (2 cups) glutinous rice6 wooden skewers, soaked in water for30 minutes to minimise burning2 spring onions, thinly sliced Kanzuri (see note), lemon wedges and baby purple shiso, to serve TARE (DIPPING SAUCE)125 ml (½ cup) light soy sauce2 tbsp each mirin, sake and honey1 tbsp caster sugarKATSUOBUSHI BUTTER1½ tbsp katsuobushi flakes (see note)2 tsp fried shallots100 gm unsalted butter, at room temperature1 tsp light soy sauce Finely grated zest of ½ lemon 1 Cover sticky rice with cold water and soak for 4…

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 20 MINS “Having such a small kitchen at Sonny has its challenges but it’s also been a great learning curve and has enhanced our creativity with our food,” says Breen. 4 skinless snapper fillets (200gm each), pin-boned500 ml (2 cups) fish stock Finely grated zest of 1 lemon150 gm cold unsalted butter, cut into1cm pieces300 gm small red seedless grapes, halved1½ tbsp lemon juice1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil120 gm baby gem lettuce leaves 1 Place fish in a deep-sided frying pan with stock over medium-high heat. Bring to the boil, reduce heat to low and simmer until just cooked (4-5 minutes). Remove fish and place on a large plate. Cover loosely with foil and keep warm. 2 Return pan to high…

I found one of the best ways to teach people about my home was through the food I was raised with, in dishes such as yams in coconut cream (called sop sop) and semur, a chicken soy sauce dish with lots of lemongrass, ginger and vermicelli noodles. Did you know the Torres Strait was multicultural long before the rest of Australia? Our dishes have a strong Japanese and Southeast Asian influence. The islands traded food, plants, baskets and nets with Papua New Guinea and Indonesia for generations. The Japanese settled there as early as the mid-19th century, diving for pearls and bêche-de-mer (sea cucumbers) to send to Japan, and they married into our families and are a part of our community. Coming from a tropical island where I would catch…

SERVES 2-3 “This recipe reminds me of foraging for fresh seafood,” says Bero. “The mussels open up in just a few minutes in the peppery broth, and the lemon aspen gives a great zesty flavour without using lemons.” 1 kg mussels4 shallots, sliced4 native thyme sprigs1 tbsp olive oil5 gm pepperberry leaf3 tbsp tomato paste1 tsp chilli paste½ tsp ground pepperberry1 tsp lemon aspen powder A pinch of sea salt200 ml white wine A handful of chopped sea parsley3 tbsp karkalla 1 Make sure to clean the mussels before cooking. You will see a little hairy bit sticking out from the side – this is called the beard, and all you need to do is pull it downwards towards the smaller end of the mussel to remove it, and they’re…

SERVES 6 “Pakalolo is a typical island celebration dish which shows how traditional ingredients, such as cassava, can really shine,” says Bero. “Use the right combination of coconut milk and cream in the panna cotta – I use Kara.” COCONUT PANNA COTTA 10 gm powdered gelatine500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk250 ml (1 cup) coconut cream55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar Fruit of choice, to garnish (optional) BANANA PAKALOLO 2 kg cassava, peeled and grated55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar¼ tsp lemon myrtle3 ripe bananas, mashed75 gm (½ cup) plain flour2 50cm banana leaves800 ml thick coconut milk100 gm plain flour1 tsp ground cinnamon myrtle700 ml vegetable oil 1 To make panna cotta, activate the gelatine by adding it to 1 tbsp water to soften. 2 Place all ingredients in…

MAKES ENOUGH FOR TWO Shaped semolina puddings have been appearing in English cookery books since the beginning of the 19th century. The puddings are either prepared in a pastry shell like a pie, or baked or steamed in a mould. The soft porridge-like semolina pudding that is more common today was popularised during the Second World War, when packaged versions were sold and ingredients have rarely been added since then. 600 ml double cream70 gm raw sugar15 gm butter145 gm semolina A pinch of salt1 tbsp orange flower water2 eggs40 gm amaretti biscuits Butter, for greasing 1 Preheat oven to 160°C. In a saucepan, bring cream to a gentle simmer with sugar and butter. Pour in semolina, salt and orange flower water and stir until it starts to boil, turn…

MAKES 1 PUDDING IN A 1-LITRE FANCY MOULD This pudding is also sometimes called “Newcastle pudding”, “diplomat pudding” or “Chancellor’s pudding”, though the connection with politics isn’t clear. 190 gm stale sponge cake15 amaretti biscuits Cognac or dark rum, to taste Half quantity of custard sauce (see below)15 glacé cherriesCUSTARD SAUCE (MAKES 2 LITRES)10 egg yolks500 ml milk500 ml double cream50 gm raw sugar1 mace blade or cinnamon stick1 bay leaf (optional) 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. 2 Slice sponge cake in 1cm-thick pieces and arrange in a deep dish with the biscuits. Drizzle with a generous amount of cognac or rum and let it soak. 3 Lightly grease the mould (if you don’t want to take risks getting pudding out, line it with plastic wrap - the sort that…

Palm Springs is one of those classic Californian destinations that exists in our imagination long before we set foot on its asphalt; I believe I’ve dreamed of holidaying in Palm Springs since I was approximately eight years old. The name “Palm Springs” alone evokes swaying palm trees, poolside cocktails, decadent dinners, sunshine-on-tap, the strains of Sinatra. These things, Palm Springs has been delivering for decades. Less embedded in the imaginations of travellers, however, is Palm Springs’s gentle metamorphosis from a pleasure-seeker’s paradise into a cultural hotspot dedicated to 20th century art, architecture and design. I’m here for Palm Springs Modernism Week, an annual celebration of the city’s mid-century architecture, design and art. This February event of open house tours, double-decker bus tours, heritage walks, exhibitions and concerts is a broad…

A few years back, I went with a friend to see a play at the Malthouse Theatre in Melbourne’s Southbank. Another friend was in the cast and so after the (excellent) show we had a drink at the lobby bar, waiting for her to emerge from backstage. When she appeared, she announced she was famished and wanted – no, needed – food and Champagne. This is the exact situation where it’s handy to know that France-Soir, the neon-signed French bistro in South Yarra that’s been packing them in for 36 years, is open until midnight every night of the week. It had just gone 10pm and so we jumped in a cab and 20 minutes later were seated at a linen-dressed table, toasting the success of the show with Champagne…

Exclusive culinary journeys Gourmet Traveller has partnered with luxury travel specialists Southern Crossings to curate two exclusive itineraries to showcase some of the best culinary experiences to be found around Australia. Our first tour, Wines to Wilderness, will take in highlights of New South Wales over seven days, exploring the vineyards of Hunter Valley, Mudgee and Orange, before ending with two nights at Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley, where guests will experience their own private Australian wildlife safari. Along the way, guests will be treated to a number of exclusive tasting experiences, as well as a scenic helicopter flight over Mudgee and Orange. In October, Allan Campion will host the Southern Flavours tour over 10 days, departing from Melbourne and exploring the Grampians and Daylesford, staying at Royal Mail and the…

WAYWARD BREWING CO. Raspberry Berliner Weisse The gentle tang of this berry-forward ale is Wayward’s interpretation of a Berliner Weisse beer. Despite its dazzling pink hue, it’s not overly sweet, combining the tartness of raspberry with a crisp, dry finish. A perfect gateway to sours. $20 for 4 x 375ml wayward.com.au CURRUMBIN VALLEY BREWING CO Mango Sour with Lemon Myrtle This zippy drupe-charged sour sees bright notes of juicy mango underscored with a shimmer of citrus, thanks to lemon myrtle. Ideal to pair with a curry, as the just-sweet and acidic number will cut through any spice.  $28 for 4 x 375ml currumbinvalley brewing.com.au SAILORS GRAVE BREWING Lemon Meringue Cream Sour Citrus plays the best supporting role in this beer rather than being the star, adding a subtle yet refreshing…

One of Lisa Havilah’s greatest qualities is her humility and joy in celebrating others. Lisa has had a major influence on my career over the last 10 years, inviting me to first curate the Carriageworks Summer Night Markets in 2017. This ignited a passion within me for collaboration and community that I never knew existed. The joy of gathering talented people and organisations in the same space, collaborating on a common, uplifting goal, and sharing stories and experiences with the world through delicious food, drink, music and art is now one of my favourite things to do. Sometimes in life, you have to make your own opportunities. As young art students in regional New South Wales, Lisa Havilah and her then boyfriend (now husband and established ceramicist Glenn Barkley) approached…

Cumulus Inc wasn’t the first restaurant to mark Flinders Lane as one of Melbourne’s premier food streets but it’s the most influential. From its design, which introduced local diners to the kitchen bar, to a menu that helped redefine the city’s version of all-day dining via meticulously sourced ingredients, precision cooking and excellent quality booze, Cumulus Inc immediately encapsulated a particular mode of Melbourne eating. That it shared a re-purposed rag trade building with both an art gallery (Arc One) and a cutting-edge theatre (fortyfivedownstairs) cranked its Melburnian credentials to 11. The originality of Cumulus Inc is perhaps best underlined by the fact that, after nearly a decade-and-a-half, it still feels fresh. The open airy room, with its soaring Victorian dimensions, timber floors, splashes of colour, moments of whimsy (those…

From cottage blues to dynamic reds, these versatile freestanding cookers come in a range of new vibrant hues to spice up your entertaining. Integrated Gas Cooktop with Wok Burner Whether you’re cooking for a large family, throwing a dinner party or preparing freezer meals, the Richmond Deluxe Dual Fuel Range Cooker offers substantial room and flexibility. Pastas, curries and soups can easily be prepared on the multiple gas hob burners, while stir-fried dishes can be cooked on the specially designed wok burner. Nothing is too much for this cooker. Multi-Function Oven With a generous cooking capacity and multiple functions, such as slow cook or grill function plus bread proving and more, this four-door freestanding oven is a versatile and welcome addition to any kitchen. In addition, a set of double…

If you’re trying to understand the concept of cultural appropriation in the Australian food scene, Taco Tuesday can be a good place to start. “If there’s sombreros on the wall, skulls and chillies and you have to sign some waiver to eat some chilli that’ll make your colon fall out of your pants; that kind of stuff is really tacky,” says Toby Wilson, who runs Ricos Tacos in Sydney. “It’s not just questionable taste, either. You’re just trying to make money off a culture that you don’t care about,” he adds. Turning someone else’s cuisine into a theme park doesn’t feel right to Wilson. But Wilson isn't here to cancel anyone for seeking outside influence. He himself is a non-Mexican who cooks Mexican-inspired food for a living. He believes being…

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 50 MINS // COOK 2 HRS (PLUS COOLING) “This pork belly makes for an easy dinner party main course,” says Whiteman. “All the hard work is done long before guests arrive.” 375 ml (1½ cups) light soy sauce250 ml (1 cup) sake110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar50 gm piece of ginger, thinly sliced6 garlic cloves, bruised3 golden shallots, cut into wedges1 kg piece boneless pork belly, skin on2 tbsp honey APPLE AND YUZU KOSHO SAUCE2 Granny Smith apples (125gm each), peeled, cored, thinly sliced80 gm caster sugar120 ml apple cider vinegar1 tsp yuzu kosho (see note)1 tbsp lemon juice RADISH SALAD60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil1½ tbsp apple cider vinegar1½ tsp each honey and lemon juice2 each baby watermelon, breakfast and red radishes, shaved lengthways¼…

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 2 HRS 30 MINS (PLUS BRINING, DRYING, RESTING) Juicy and flavoursome, this is “a modern way of doing a Sunday roast with a traditional bread sauce,” says chef Alexis Besseau. 1 corn-fed chicken (1.8 kg)1.5 kg chicken wings1 brown onion, coarsely chopped1 carrot, coarsely chopped6 sprigs thyme, plus extra to serve1 fresh bay leaf100 ml grapeseed oil3 spring onions, white part removed, green part, thinly slicedBREAD SAUCE50 gm unsalted butter1 small brown onion, finely chopped2 tsp finely chopped thyme100 gm panko breadcrumbs500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock60 ml (¼ cup) pouring cream1 tsp white peppercorns, toasted, finely ground1 tbsp finely chopped tarragon, plus extra to serve 1 Place chicken, 1 litre water and 30gm sea salt flakes in a large non-reactive…

SERVES 4 “The wattleseed and saltbush make a delicious crisp coating,” explains Bero. “I call it ‘the Blak lady crumb’.” 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour1 tbsp paprika1 tbsp dried saltbush1 tbsp garlic powder1 tbsp onion powder40 gm finely ground wattleseed2 tbsp salt2 whole butterflied spatchcocks2 litres (8 cups) vegetable oil Sliced watermelon, to serve Karkalla, to garnish Fried saltbush (optional) and native currants (optional), to garnish MARINADE 1 litre (4 cups) buttermilk1 tbsp paprika1 tbsp dried saltbush 1 Mix flour, paprika, saltbush, garlic and onion powders, wattleseed and salt together on a plate and set aside. 2 Chop spatchcocks into pieces, cutting at the joints, thighs and wings. 3 Mix marinade ingredients in a bowl and let spatchcock pieces marinate for 20 minutes. 4 Heat oil to 160°C in…

SERVES 4 “Pawpaw is a very common tropical fruit that we use fresh and in all sorts of dishes,” says Bero. “The lean kangaroo makes a lighter sort of curry – it’s a real mix of sweet and savoury.” 1 green pawpaw (about 1 kg)80 ml (⅓ cup) macadamia oil1 tsp curry paste (see below)250 gm minced kangaroo steak5 cm piece fresh ginger, grated2 bacon rashers, diced1 tsp sugar1 tbsp sultanas100 gm karkalla Cooked rice or lettuce cups, to serveCURRY PASTE10 birdseye chillies1 tbsp coriander seeds1 tsp salt40 gm peeled ginger1 tbsp lemon myrtle1 tsp ground pepperberry2 tbsp chopped shallots4 garlic cloves 1 For curry paste, blend all ingredients to a smooth paste in a food processor or mortar and pestle and store in a screw-top jar in the refrigerator…

When we speak of pudding we will all, British or not, think of a sweet course concluding a meal. But the term “pudding” has only been connected to this part of the meal since the 20th century. In its early days, pudding started as a savoury dish, such as a haggis or a sausage. The etymology of the English word pudding leads in several directions. A possible explanation for its ancestry is the Latin word botellus, meaning sausage, from which very likely came the French word boudin. Another option is the West Germanic stem pud which meant “to swell”, or the Westphalian dialect puddek meaning “lump”. One that is close is the Low German pudde-wurst which was the word for their black pudding. Pudding is the name of a mixture…

This is a form of cheese-curd tart flavoured with elderflowers. The recipe first appears in the book of the Master Cooks of King Richard II, The Forme of Cury (1390). It is called sambocade after the Latin word for elderflower, sambucus. It may be one of the earliest cheesecakes of Britain, although we know that cheesecakes have been around since Ancient Greek times. 1 litre milk (yields 220-240gm cheese curd; see note)1 tbsp buttermilk or fresh lemon juice2 tsp vegetable rennet3 tbsp fresh or dried elderflowers (see note)40 gm raw sugar½ tsp rosewater1 tbsp plain flour3 egg whitesHOT WATER PASTRY225 gm plain flour150 ml boiling water 1 Make the cheese curd by pouring the milk into a clean saucepan and heat to 37°C, otherwise known as body temperature or blood…

You need to eat street food,” insists firebrand Indian-born chef Gaggan Anand. “If you’re coming to visit Bangkok, I’m not going to send you to eat in my restaurants.” It’s a strong opinion, but to be expected from a rebel famous for doing things his way. After an unprecedented four consecutive awards for Asia’s Best Restaurant, Anand is in his new self-titled restaurant Gaggan Anand and happily playing the role of disruptor. His fuel of choice? Street food, of course. THE BEST PORK SKEWERS I’m crazy for the moo ping (grilled pork skewers) from Moo Ping Hea Owen. It’s the best in Bangkok by far. He has a small cart right out the front of a 7-Eleven in Silom and he doesn’t start cooking until really late (11pm to 3am).…

In cooking, acids and enzymes are used as tenderisers, breaking down fibres to soften the tough bits. And so it is in skincare where an aptly applied exfoliant can dissolve dead skin cells to reveal the glow that lies beneath. It’s an addictive premise. And for anyone who has ever invested serious bank on serums, sloughing away an impervious outer layer clears the way for those active ingredients to work their magic. Biologically speaking, skin sheds on a 28-day cycle (for the young). With age, stress and the effects of winter, that process slows down. But exfoliation revs up cell turnover. Physical exfoliants, which use grit to scrub away old cells, are instantly satisfying – the beauty equivalent of taking a mallet to protein. But going too hard too often…