Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2022 i Gourmet Traveller

By the time you read this, I will finally be home, reunited with my family in New Zealand, after yet another long year apart. Aside from bringing me obvious joy, this marks a significant milestone for other reasons. Because finally – after two years of focusing solely on when I can go home – I can begin to plan my next adventure. I can allow myself to start researching Roman restaurants and Venetian galleries and Puglian beach clubs. I can begin to plot elaborate itineraries based on the many excellent recommendations that come my way – including several featured in this issue. The Italian issue is a perennial favourite but this year’s is especially poignant as it comes two years after the world shut down. In March 2020, our Italian…

The Mysa Motel, Gold Coast, Qld Part of the thrillingly great trend of breathing new life into 1950s and ’60s-era motels, The Mysa Motel, is a tiny seven-room cutie in Palm Beach that blends light-filled rooms in gelato colours with terrazzo floors and spacious bathrooms, plus a magnificent kidney-shaped magnesium pool. Assemble your besties and have the whole place to yourself. Michael Harden, Vic state editor Mummucc’, Perth Laksa, I’m pretty certain, isn’t a traditional Italian dish. Yet somehow, this thrilling plate of sopressa and prawn tortellini sauced with sea urchin butter suggests Asian soup noodles and la cucina vera have more in common than one might think. 6/46-56 Grantham St, Wembley, WA Max Veenhuyzen, WA state editor Lion Sands River Lodge, South Africa It’s been an unforgettable experience to…

Spicy honey is fast becoming a hot ticket condiment, but Neutral Bay eatery Against the Grind has taken the fiery-sweet combo a step further creating its own ’nduja honey. The salty, funky and fragrant spread can be enjoyed on toast, dolloped over roast veggies or served on a charcuterie board. $17, atgneutralbay.com Swiss watchmaker Longines has opened a new flagship store in Chadstone. The boutique is the luxury brand’s second flagship store in Melbourne, stocking a complete range of timepieces and is home to a dedicated Watchmaker Bar. longines.com/en-au…

ITAL IAN CERAMICS 1 Studio Medea These bright Sicilian Moor’s head vases can be used to store fruit or display flowers. The Studio Medea founders wanted to share a slice of their Italian upbringing by importing recognisable Italian ceramics for Australian homes. From $955, studiomedea.com 2 Di Lunedi These Australian-made, Italian-inspired ceramics are handmade and painted. Whether it’s an elegant plate emblazoned with “Ciao” for serving, or a sardine plate ready for aperitivo hour, the plates are as unique as they are practical. From $110, dilunedi.com 3 Bitossi Illustrated citrus fruits adorn this classic white porcelain plate. The Tuscan brand has been producing ceramics since 1537, with pieces that have helped establish the Italian design aesthetic globally. From $110, bedthreads.com.au…

INTERNATIONAL Hilton Singapore Orchard has opened, and is the largest hotel by the group in the Asia-Pacific region. With eyes to reassert its position as a global business and events hub, the sprawling 1080-room hotel is located within the city’s renowned shopping and hospitality district. The hotel will also offer five dining concepts, including Osteria Mozza by chef Nancy Silverton; Ginger Lily for botanical-inspired afternoon tea and artisanal pastries; and locally loved Hainanese chicken rice purveyor Chatterbox. The Orchard Road hotel will also integrate sustainable features, including motion sensors to control air-conditioning and lights in every room and suite. AUSTRALIA Surry Hills’ Ace Hotel Sydney has scored chef Mitch Orr to lead its rooftop restaurant Kiln. The ex-Acme chef will oversee the kitchen 18 storeys above Surry Hills. Centering his…

One of the earliest recorded trolling incidents had nothing to do with social media; it was caused by a quince. Greek legend has it that all of the Gods and Goddesses were invited to a celestial wedding banquet, except Eris, the Goddess of Discord. Discovering she had been snubbed, Eris took her revenge by lobbing a “golden apple” – which was almost certainly a quince – into the banqueting hall, with the words “For the Most Beautiful One” inscribed on it. This caused a fight to break out between Athena, Aphrodite and Hera, who each thought they had the best claim to that title. Paris, prince of Troy, was given the unenviable task of deciding who should win the prize. He chose Aphrodite. She rewarded him by making the most…

2021 MDI Pinot Grigio, $22 If there’s a wine that Kev McCarthy knows how to make in this country, it’s pinot grigio and this newest iteration is no exception. Taking a fresh look at Mildura and pinot grigio (with the help of friends and growers), the wine spends time on skins to create a textural, luscious wine to suit any occasion. mandi.wine 2021 Chalmers ‘Mother Block’ White Blend, $23 A vermentino-dominant blend alongside lesser-known varieties of ansonica, falanghina and pecorino all grown on the Mother Block, the heart of the entire Chalmers’ family vineyards. The grapes are co-fermented for an authentic savoury and crisp Italian white blend made in Australia. chalmers.com.au 2018 Handpicked Wines ‘Trial Batch’ Nero d’Avola, $29 Nero d’avola is a native Sicilian grape that finds itself at…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Duck cotoletta with pickled radicchio salad SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 6 MINS (PLUS PICKLING) 1 tbsp caster sugar2 tbsp each white wine vinegar and verjuice1 tsp juniper berries1 tsp sea salt flakes1 small radicchio, cut into wedges2 golden shallots, thinly sliced80 gm (2 cups) panko crumbs75 gm (¼ cup) plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper1 egg, lightly beaten2 duck breasts, skin removed, pounded to 0.5cm thick Olive oil, for shallow frying50 gm unsalted butter, chopped½ cup sage leaves 1 For pickled radicchio, combine sugar, vinegar, verjuice, juniper and salt flakes in a small saucepan over high heat and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Place radicchio leaves and shallots in a bowl, pour over pickling liquid and…

Preparing and cooking for a large Easter celebration is easier with the KitchenAid 13-Cup Food Processor. Generous capacity allows for large quantities of ingredients while the convenient 3-in-1 wide mouth feed tube and hinged lid let you add more ingredients while working. Comes with a multi-purpose blade, dicing kit, dough blade, and reversible fine and medium shredding discs. KITCHENAID 13-CUP FOOD PROCESSOR – BLACK MATTE (5KFP1319ABM), $449. HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU online | mobile | in store FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES…

Unlike its relative, potato gnocchi, where the conversation is ongoing as to which variety of potato is best and whether it should be boiled or baked, no debate is required with these ricotta and spinach dumplings that are surprisingly quick to make and a delight to eat. The name gnudi translates to “naked” and refers to the mixture, which is rather like the filling of ravioli – without any clothes (pasta). Here, we’ve laced them with dill, and dressed them with marjoram and pine nuts and golden burnt butter. Step by step 1 For gnudi, wilt 100gm just rinsed, baby spinach in a large dry frying pan over high heat (30 seconds - 1 minute). Transfer to a sieve and press out any excess moisture, then pulse in a food…

FIADONI ABRUZZESI Abruzzo cheese pies MAKES 10 // PREP TIME 1 HR // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS RESTING) In Abruzzo, you’ll find these shaped like large ravioli or pies, as in this version. We’ve sneaked butter into the pastry for a flaky shatter. 625 gm plain flour210 gm unsalted butter, chopped Small thyme sprigs, to decorate Lemon wedges, to serve FILLING 8 eggs, plus 1 extra, lightly beaten, for glazing400 gm Pecorino Romano, coarsely grated400 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano, coarsely grated20 thin slices spicy salami, finely diced1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1 For dough, combine flour and 1¼ tsp salt in an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and mix on low speed to combine. Add butter; beat on low speed to coat butter in flour (30 seconds). Increase speed to…

You learn a lot about a nation by how it travels. Confident, crowd-chasing and convivial, Italian tourists are among my favourite travel tribes. Here, based on 20 years of travelling in Italy and spying on Italian tourists abroad, are my five rules of holidaying like an Italian. Follow the crowd The idea of “having the place to yourself” is an anathema to an Italian. If there are no people there, it means the beach, gallery or bistro has something wrong with it. I first grasped this on a trip to Ischia, when some lovely locals listened in horror as I enthused about the quiet beaches. They were aghast that I’d only visited free beaches – la spiaggia libera – and proceeded to steer me to the bus stop and off…

DRIP FEED If you’re a little sensitive, tolerating actives can be challenging. Kiehl Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum, $118, has lower concentrations of retinol, so you can reap the benefits without the irritation. LAYER UP A powerful blend of antioxidants combines with our favourite line smoother to gently undo damage while protecting skin from oxidative stress. Alpha H Vitamin A Serum with 0.5% Retinol, $79.95. PLANT POWER The retinol in this plant-based serum isn’t actually retinol. Instead, Biossance Squalane + Phyto-Retinol Serum, $110, has a botanical alternative called bakuchiol, which has been shown to reduce fine lines, boost elasticity and improve skin tone. COMFORT FIRST For those with dry skin, these two formulas combine retinol with skin-nourishing ceramides. We love Drunk Elephant A-Gloei Maretinol Oil, $108; and Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide…

Zetta Florence This Melbourne institution has been delighting Brunswick Street shoppers since 1989 with its clever and colourful collection of hand-crafted stationery and gifts. We especially love their boxed card sets, printed on Italian paper. zettaflorence.com.au Linen House ReJeaneration Made from recycled denim, this new range of natural, sustainable bed linen is not only good for the environment but 10 per cent of all profits go to marginalised and vulnerable members of the community. linenhouse.com Breville Pizzaiolo Create restaurant-quality pizza at home in minutes with Breville’s benchtop pizza oven, which heats to a fiery 400°C to ensure a perfectly scorched crust every time. An essential addition for your next pizza party. harveynorman.com.au Pellegrino 2000 It may be the new kid in town but Sydney’s newest trattoria, from the team behind…

VICTORIA The team behind Tokyo Tina, Hanoi Hannah et al is heading to Balaclava, where it will open Moonhouse, fusing Asian flavours with classic bistro dishes. The corner restaurant will see executive chef Anthony Choi (Cumulus Inc and Firebird) joined by head chef Shirley Summakwan to power a menu of idiosyncratic snacks: think prawn toast amplified by a prawn bisque dipping sauce; or a club sandwich tricked up by replicating flavours found in Hainanese chicken rice. In the city, Chris Lucas will unveil his latest venture on Flinders Lane, Grill Americano. Drawing inspiration from Northern Italy and promising old-school hospitality, the menu will centre on fire-kissed produce cooked over a Josper grill and hand-built wood oven. In Fitzroy, young chef Ruby Haupt (Rosetta) and her father Graham Haupt have opened…

GUCCI OSTERIA, JAPAN Following a year-long delay Tokyo’s Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura has opened in Ginza. Merging Italian cuisine with the fashion goliath’s eclectic and immersive style, the restaurant is the third joint venture between the style maison and chef. gucciosteria.com/en/tokyo MOSTO, INDONESIA Indonesia has welcomed its first natural wine bar. Mosto is a 70-seat wine bar and Italian eatery from some of the team behind Motel Mexicola and Da Maria. The collective has a vested interest in vino, producing and bottling Indonesia’s first pet-nat last year. mostobali.com OCEANIA CRUISES, ITALY Oceania Cruises’ newest ship Vista has debuted in Sestri Ponente, Italy. Following the float-out ceremony, it will head on its maiden voyage from Rome to Barcelona followed by 12 additional European voyages. oceaniacruises.com…

In my mid-20s I was given the opportunity to work in the best Italian restaurant in the country, The Restaurant Manfredi. I was the luckiest young chef around, each service I had the privilege of learning directly from the family; Franca Manfredi and her two talented sons Stefano and Franco. A spirited young Izzi used to bounce in after school heading straight for her beloved Nonna and the family kitchen. I’ve loved feeding Izzi over the years and watching her blossom into an all-out rockstar, mother and, just like her formidable grandmother, an articulate, pioneering, powerful force. There’s a kind of hair flick only a seasoned rock god can pull off; an onstage power move that turns a room of individuals into a single entity and shifts crowds to their…

Everybody loves a Negroni – it’s the unofficial party starter for almost any occasion. Its lighter, slightly brighter sibling, however, is an absolute game changer. Renowned British bartender, Wayne Collins, is said to be responsible for concocting this floral and fragrant recipe at a cocktail-making expo in 2001. Lillet Blanc substitutes the usual vermouth, while Suze – a herbaceous and bitter gentian-based liqueur – takes the place of Campari. The gin, of course, is a mainstay, and here at GT, we tend to lean towards something that’s soft, classic and Australian-made. The white libation is just as bitter as its red-hued counterpart, but offers a little less sweetness, making it as much of an apéritif as a digestif. And just like any good cocktail, it’s topped off with a twist…

It’s a simple dish. Five sardines, heads and tails removed, plump bodies resting in a pool of zesty, chartreuse-coloured Tuscan olive oil. The silvery fish come laid out in a row, almost hidden by a soft tangle of sharply soused onion strands. Over the top is a scatter of toasted pine nuts and a scant fistful of raisins so plumped up they’re almost grapes again. La Lupa, a wine bar-pizzeria in Brisbane’s West End is best known for its Roman-style pizze, but the kitchen’s take on this Venetian classic, sarde en saor, is a tasty tutorial in how to layer flavours brilliantly. The first forkful lands a vinegary smack that speedily builds into a flood of sweet and sour, then finishes with a rich savoury backbeat. This antipasto, dressed with…

Transport guests to Italy. The Breville Pizzaiolo Benchtop Oven makes it easy to cook woodfired pizza everyone will love. The compact countertop oven can reach temperatures of 400°C with specific heating settings to ensure an even, classic char finish. The design replicates the heat of a traditional brick oven so the base maintains perfect crispness, the crust develops a signature ‘leopard spot’ and convective heat ensures perfectly melted and baked toppings. Buon appetito. BREVILLE THE SMART OVEN PIZZAIOLO BENCHTOP OVEN (BPZ820BSS), $999. HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU online | mobile | in store FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES…

Prepare a huge range of recipes handily with the retro-styled Smeg Hand Mixer. Featuring nine different speeds and an LED display on the handle to show the settings and timing, it’s easy to control your output and mix quickly and thoroughly. Comes with a pair of whisks, aluminium flat beaters and dough hooks to allow diverse preparation options. An intuitive automatic smooth-start option also helps to reduce splatter as you begin mixing. SMEG HAND MIXER – PASTEL BLUE (HMF01PBAU), $209. HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU online | mobile | in store FIND THE RECIPE AT HN.COM.AU/RECIPES…

“Nonna would never use a pre-made sauce, she’d make it in the summertime when the tomatoes were in season.” Lucia’s Pizza sauce, pasta sauce and tomato passata Bottling summer’s best harvest of ripe Roma tomatoes has been a long-term job and legacy for Lucia’s Simon Bugeja. “Lucia was my nonna, and my grandfather Pasquale was a prisoner of war, who fought for Italy and got sent to Australia,” says Bugeja. “He eventually ended up in Shepparton growing tomatoes.” In 1953, when Lucia and Pasquale moved to Adelaide, they began cooking pizze and making their own tomato passata. Pizza was virtually unheard of in Adelaide, and there was nowhere to get quality passata. “Nonna would never use a pre-made sauce, she’d make it in the summertime when the tomatoes were in…

Pietro Demaio is a master preserver of both food and tradition. The retired GP of 40-plus years was born in Melbourne as the youngest of six children, but the story of his family begins in Varapodio, a small village in Calabria in Italy’s south. It was 1938 and Demaio’s father left Varapodio for Victoria, where he completed his internment period in Warbuton before farming in Swan Hill. The plan was to work in Australia for a few years before returning to his wife and four children, as was customary of many Italian families of the era. However, the war broke out and Demaio’s father became separated from his family for a decade with little communication between them. In 1948, the family was reunited in Swan Hill. By this time, Demaio’s…

Trapani might be part of Italy, but for chef Anissa Helou, the port town in Sicily’s northwest evoked vivid memories of growing up in Lebanon and Syria: so much so that the James Beard-winning author of Feast: Food of the Islamic World relocated there from London. For almost a decade, Helou has immersed herself in Sicilian life, adding a rich new layer to her understanding of Mediterranean and Islamic food cultures. In Helou’s Trapani, food is about family, regional traditions and an intimate relationship with both land and sea. It’s also a place where a little local knowledge goes a long way. AN HONEST MEAL OUT Eating out in Sicily feels like it hasn’t been touched by globalisation. It’s often very good, modest and honest food, and in the good…

Almost a decade on from what started as a side hustle, chocolate purveyor Loco Love is continuing to build a brand that’s innovative and delicious but still rooted in its humble beginnings. “Making healthy treats was a hobby of mine,” says founder Emica Penklis. “It wasn’t until we moved to Byron that it really became a proper business.” The model turned naturopath, herbalist and chocolate maker focuses on creating ethically sourced, vegan, soy and refined sugar-free artisanal chocolates. While there’s a long list of things the treats omit, Loco Love chocolates each hinge on both a pleasing mouthfeel and classic flavour combinations, be it truffles with thick almond butter caramel and salty umami tamari toasted almonds; or smooth raspberry ganache with sour cherries. Recently Loco Love introduced chocolate drops into…

How did you get into cooking? Food always played a huge role in my life. My mother would always give her maximum effort day after day to cook a rich, flavoursome meal after a long day at work. Around the age of 12, I wanted to be able to cook something on my own. I still remember my first ever dish, crepes with Nutella. The feeling of being able to transform a few ingredients into something delicious got me hooked. Growing up, I cooked more and more for friends and family and felt rewarded by the gift of pleasure given to those around me. This led me to start my career as a chef and I enrolled at Gambero Rosso chef academy in Rome. What dishes can people look forward…

GT TEAM FAVOURITE PASTA IROLLO Casarecce This Italian brand is dedicated to producing thoughtfully made gluten-free pastas. From its range, the casarecce is an standout, offering a slightly chewy texture and twined shape that captures sauces with delicious ease. We suggest pairing with a dairy-fuelled base to experience these golden jewels at their finest. $5.50 for 400gm essentialgourmet.com.au RUMMO Spaghetti Rummo is an excellent store-bought option for pasta lovers of any kind. These slim strands are crafted from wholemeal rice, and white and yellow corn, bringing a simple, rounded flavour that’s near identical to the real thing. They’re an easy, no-stick cook, too. Perfect for light sauces like aglio eolio, or even a classic vongole. $6.15 for 400gm twoprovidores.com.au MAIDEA Penne However contradictory to their flour-fuelled reputation, the Italians are…

There’s a slice of the Mediterraean in inland Australia. The summers are warm, winters are mild and the land sees a lot of sunshine. With such a Continental climate, it makes sense that Italian grape varieties would settle in nicely The first vines in Murray Darling were planted in 1888 when irrigation gave life to the virtual desert and with time, the region accepted its standing as a place to grow grapes in bulk. Geographically, the vineyards wind their way along the river, which means it doesn’t follow the rules as it spreads across New South Wales and Victoria (even stretching west to the border of South Australia). But this unpredictability gave newer winemakers license to try something different. Enter the Italians; vermentino, pinot grigio and nero d’avola for a…

Anyone in need of a refresher on how to fall in love with restaurants again should make a date with Di Stasio Carlton. Rinaldo Di Stasio and Mallory Wall’s most recent venture is a masterclass in attention to detail, both great (brilliant, wall-sized Reko Rennie art, custom-made furniture, a truly lovely piazza-channelling courtyard complete with gravel and a 17th-century Roman fountain) and small (Martinis served on silver trays with extra olives on ice, anchovies served draped fastidiously over a cheek of lemon, fior di latte soft serve presented in glass bowls the same shade of green as on the servers’ uniforms). Add a psychic-adjacent level of service and you have restaurant as artform or performance piece, a meal in every sense. It isn’t cheap but bespoke never is. Di Stasio…

If you haven’t yet succumbed to the mouth-wateringly healthy results from an air fryer, now is the time. The new Tefal Easy Fry & Grill Air Fryer also offers dual functionality to make it a hard-working kitchen essential. With high-quality design and features, it offers superior performance compared to budget air fryers. Features include adjustable temperature control, die-cast aluminium grill for tender meat and vegetables, plus a built-in timer to manage cooking times. TEFAL EASY FRY & GRILL AIR FRYER (EY5058), $349. HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU online | mobile | in store…

As we spend more and more time at home, preparing quality coffee for you and your guests is more important than ever. The Swiss-made Jura E8 offers flawless grinding, state-of-the-art brewing technology and feather-light milk foaming as well as an enviable range of automated features to make 17 different coffee types. This unit also includes a handy automated milk cleaning system. JURA E8 DARK INOX COFFEE MACHINE (E8INOX), $2390. Jura milk jug is sold separately. HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU online | mobile | in store SHOP ONLINE WITH YOUR LOCAL STORE HN.COM.AU/SMALLAPPLIANCES OR CALL 1300 464 278. HARVEY NORMAN STORES ARE OPERATED BY INDEPENDENT FRANCHISEES. PROMOTION ENDS 24/04/2022.…

“Venice at its heart is a model of a sustainable city – since its foundation it has learnt to survive in the midst of difficult environmental conditions.” It doesn’t take long for this city to work its magic on me. Just one look at that long, low horizon shaped by the lagoon and I find myself breathing a sigh. Venice never gets old: the water-lapped maze of streets and canals; the campi (squares) where people positioned themselves in the sun; ducking down side streets in search of the best sugar-crusted frittelle in a bar piled with baccalà mantecato (whipped cod). Enshrouded in fog or under a beaming sun, Venice continues to take my breath away. Experiencing Venice without mass tourism over the past two years was a highlight of the…

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A building site on a barren hill was not what my parents had in mind when they decided to raise a family in Tuscany. Arniano – the derelict farmhouse bought in 1989, in the then unfashionable southern region of Montalcino – had a roof and windows, but not much else. No electricity, no water, and certainly not the elegant loggias or rococo plasterwork they had hoped to find in their dream palazzo. There was not a single shrub or tree in the 30-odd acres of scrubland that fell away from the house on all sides, leaving it proud and exposed on the cross of its own hill. This was where I would spend the first 13 years of my life. One day in 2014, in a pub in West London,…

If you feel like you’re in a Fellini film while you’re here, it’s because the master based many of his scenes on this hotel. Today a kaleidoscope of parasols and beach lounges line the shores. But beyond the sand and behind the hotels, everyday Italian life is in full swing. For the discerning traveller who is curious enough to look for it, culture, history and great food await. Italian filmmaker Federico Fellini is Rimini’s darling, born and raised here, the Riviera informed many of his films in the 1950s and ’60s. So it’s fitting that a new Fellini museum opened in a 15th-century castle in Rimini last September. Even more fitting, the museum spreads across the Piazza dei Sogni to Palazzo Valloni, home of the iconic Fulgor cinema, which was…

RETRO POP Pastel blues and raw textures combine to create a fun and fresh palette with a subtle nod to the past. CLASSIC CUCINA If the relics of ancient Rome have taught us anything, it’s that clever design teamed with lashings of marble is a timeless combination.…