Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2022 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p116 As I sit down to write this in early 2022, the world is once again in a state of flux. I’ve never been one for making sweeping resolutions but if there’s one thing I could certainly benefit from this year, it’s a little more balance in my life. We’ve spent nearly two years in an all-or-nothing state, bouncing in and out of lockdown and never quite knowing what’s next. I’m sure I’m not alone in feeling that a little stability would go a long way right now. Frustratingly, we are but passengers on this wild ride, which is outside of our control. But we can bring some balance to our lives through our actions, particularly when it comes to what we choose to cook, eat and…

Carrington Falls, Southern Highlands, NSW The Southern Highlands is home to some unsuspecting summer havens, like these tranquil watering-holes hidden behind the town of Robertson. Streams run ice-cold, providing sweet relief from the heat for locals and visitors alike. Georgie Meredith, writer and editorial coordinator Ulur-u-Kata Tjut-a National Park, NT There has never been a better time to tick off some of those bucket list destinations in our own backyard. A trip to the Red Centre proved both replenishing and revitalising with its big skies, striking landscapes and rich, powerful history. A spiritual and eye-opening experience. Lauren de Sousa, art director Di Stasio Pizzeria, Melbourne This lobster, lard, fior di latte and herb pizza was $48. Was it worth it? Was I even a lobster on pizza kind of guy?…

Dubbed “that fish dip” by Northern Rivers locals, this smoked fish rillettes is a rich-yet-fresh take on the traditional French confit meat. The Bay Smokehouse uses sustainably sourced wild-caught fish – perhaps mullet, trevally or Spanish mackerel depending on what’s available from local fishermen – and hot smokes it. These fillets are then blended with raw cashew cream (making it dairy-free) and topped with olive oil, resulting in an unctuous and smooth dip that’s well worth seeking out. thebaysmokehouse.com.au…

Melbourne sisters Katianna and Yianna Velos are delivering a slice of their Greek heritage to Australia, launching Golden Groves Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Harvesting olives from their family groves in Mani, Greece, the oil is made from cold-pressed koroneiki olives, a variety native to Greece. The olives are harvested while green, resulting in a bright and peppery oil, ideal for drizzling over ripe tomatoes, just-fried haloumi, grilled meats, or just about any dish. You can even set up your own custom oil subscription to ensure you never run dry. $36 for 750ml, goldengrovesco.com…

1 Fressko Form and function combine into a perfect, portable package that saw Fressko win a Good Design Award for this effort. This insulated reusable cup is easy to wash, and will keep your latte hot or your iced coffee cool. Its screw-top lid also prevents any spillage. From $34.95, au.madebyfressko.com 2 KeepCup As one of the first homegrown cups to shift the way Australians get their caffeine fix, the KeepCup is one of the best reusable vessels around. The easy-to-use lid seals firmly to prevent leaks and the glass is sturdy, plus stays clean and odour-free. From $30, au.keepcup.com 3 Huskee Made from discarded coffee husks, this sustainable coffee cup can be used on the go or in the home. The sleek design is easy to hold and comes…

The smell of basil is a signature of the summer kitchen. It’s the heady scent of freshness, outdoor eating, and la dolce vita. When we speak of ‘basil’, we typically think of sweet basil, with its strong connection to Italian cuisine. In fact, there are dozens of species in the basil genus Ocimum, belonging to the mint family. Like all members of the mint family (think sage, rosemary and thyme), basils have square stems and lipped flowers. Most basils are native to Africa, although the most important culinary species hail from the Indian subcontinent. Edible plants tell us so many stories about ourselves. Take the recipe in which sweet basil plays the starring role, pesto. Pesto is famously associated with the port city of Genoa, through which all kinds of…

In the second part of our Tasmanian adventure, we head north to the Tamar Valley and Pipers River sub-regions, which boast a history of vineyards dating back to the 1820s. “The more information and detail we can give people about the wines from all these different sub-regions within Tasmania, the more they’ll engage with it,” explains winemaker Jim Chatto. This diversity of subregionality is a part of Chatto’s business model, as he only produces pinot noir wines from his estate vineyards in the southern Tasmanian region of the Huon Valley, and the northern regions of Tamar Valley and Pipers River. It keeps things simple: “If you’re buying Chatto, you’re buying pinot,” he jokes. However, this singular focus on pinot highlights the distinct regional differences in Tasmanian wines. “Pipers is significantly…

Nobody goes to a Chris Lucas joint for a night of contemplative chin-stroking. After all, he’s the man who perfected the art of restaurant-as-nightclub at Chin Chin. Even when Lucas goes upmarket, as he emphatically, extravagantly has most recently at Society, party vibes remain front and centre on his mood board. At Society’s neighbour Yakimono, it’s like mainlining sugary, jittery good times. Yakimono is loosely based on the izakayas of Tokyo, but it’s a turbocharged version, more art installation than faithful recreation. It starts the moment you walk in from the street, via a “laneway” that funnels you into the 80 Collins Street precinct. Yakimono first douses you in baby pink and blue neon and reflective surfaces and then, as you climb the stairs, adds charcoal smoke and thumping beats…

The real magic of this dish lies in the contrast between the piping hot salty-sweet filling and the crunchy, chilled lettuce leaf that cradles it; each element brings different textures, temperatures and flavours, yet when they come together, they sing in complete harmony. Sang choi bau is an adored dish in the Chinese culinary canon, however its etymology is difficult to define. David Zhou from David’s in Melbourne says in Cantonese the words “sang choi” roughly translate to “lettuce” – a symbol of prosperity and wealth. “In China, sang choi bau is eaten at the end of winter as a welcome into spring,” says Zhou. “It’s symbolic of new life and energy.” A multitude of variations gives this dish a certain versatility, making it a go-to for home cooks; some…

Balance isn’t just about flavours, textures and colours on a plate. It’s not just following steps on a page or ensuring perfectly precise measurements. Rather, balance comes from within. It is shaped by our experiences, environments and memories. In eastern Asia, seeking harmony is a way of life. It is what gives the multitudes of cuisines a complexity that makes them so strikingly distinct from the Western palate. Philosophies rooted in balance may be impossible to grasp without lived experience, but putting them into practice in the kitchen is an easier task. To help us better understand how, we speak to six experts who share the guiding principles for their region’s cuisines. From flavours and ingredients, to history and culture, here are some key lessons. KOREA Bibimbap. Japchae. Gujeolpan. Banchan.…

p87 Thai chilli and mango mud crab SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 50 MINS // COOK 35 MINS Mangoes are key to this dish as they provide two of the four essential flavours of Thai cuisine; a hit of sourness balanced with a little sweetness. 60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced3 red shallots, thinly sliced4 long red chillies, finely chopped2 tbsp finely grated ginger1 small Kensington Pride mango, flesh finely diced, plus extra to serve2 jars massaman paste (195gm each)80 gm chilli paste with soybean oil400 ml coconut milk400 ml coconut cream250 ml (1 cup) fish or chicken stock4 live mud crabs, dispatched humanely (see note), cleaned, quartered, claws cracked (see note) Fried holy basil, steamed rice and lime wedges, to serve 1 Heat oil in…

p115 p112 Two years ago we released our first Two Good Cookbook, which celebrated gathering around a table to share good food and great stories. We only learned the word “commensality” during the making of the book – it means fellowship at the table; the positive social interactions associated with people eating together – but it is what we have unknowingly been practising for 15 years, since Two Good Co started life as a soup kitchen in Kings Cross. Two Good Co exists to fight gender inequality through rebuilding independence and self-worth. We do this through the careful creation of delicious, nutritious food and high-quality, sustainable products. You will hear many chefs talk about cooking with love; we are no different. Through good food and good things, we strive to…

From Paris to Catalonia, Will Goldfarb has cooked in high-powered kitchens around the world (including El Bulli) – all while immersing himself in the local culture. At Room 4 Dessert, his dessert bar in Ubud, Goldfarb celebrates the province’s produce and diverse influences. Here, the nomadic chef shares his top dining recommendations for Bali, his island home for the past 13 years. ESSENTIAL INDONESIAN For the best Indonesian food in Bali, go to Kaum at Potato Head. The menu is a combination of Indonesian classics and creations inspired by different islands across the archipelago. I can’t say no to any of chef Wayan Kresna Yasa’s sates (satays), particularly the babi (pork). The rice dishes blow my mind, and when the moringa soup is on the menu, it’s a can’t miss.…

TAKE YOUR VITAMINS The powerhouse ingredient that belongs in every skin-brightening regimen is the potent antioxidant vitamin C. It helps reduce inflammation and irregular pigmentation, while handily promoting collagen production. Some of the most effective formulas we’ve discovered include Sunday Riley’s C.E.O. Glow, $114 (1), a lightweight oil; ESK Skincare’s C-Forte 2+, $95 (3), with vitamin E and ferulic acid; and Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma™ Fresh Day Serum, $111 (4), which nourishes while gently exfoliating. LIGHT TOUCH Without moisture, skin looks lacklustre. When we want a hit of hydration, nothing kicks-up glow faster than 111Skin’s Rose Gold Face Mask, $35 (6), which saturates skin with hyaluronic acid and peptides, alongside other skin-nourishing ingredients. Also look for daily brightening formulas such as Verso’s Daily Glow, $74 (2), which increases radiance by restoring…

Emro Designs Bundjalung artist Christine Slabb drew inspiration from the coast for her new collection of wool rugs for Emro Designs, a First Nations-owned and operated business. Fishing Season is one of three unique designs available. emrodesigns.com.au Malmo bar trolley Whether laden with Champagne and cocktails or set up poolside as a sunscreen and hydration station, this outdoor cart is the ultimate summer accessory when it comes to alfresco entertaining. cocorepublic.com.au Chappy’s You’ll be a very happy chappy when you treat yourself to a bag of these premium kettle chips, handmade in Melbourne. Flavours include mango habanero, dill pickle and prawn cocktail. chappysnacks.com.au WHERE WE’VE BEEN The Gold Coast Our recent travel guide to the Gold Coast was put to good use as I headed north for a summer getaway.…

NEW SOUTH WALES Despite an enormously trying start to 2022, the hospitality industry continues to power on with several new openings. Parlar is a new 50-seat Mediterranean diner in Potts Point from the team behind neighbouring Franca. Promising a refined, luxury fit out, the kitchen will focus on Catalan dishes, overseen by Franca’s executive chef José Saulog. The menu will be full à la carte with a strong bar snacks component, ideal for dropping in and pairing with a glass of Spanish wine. Ex-Sagra owner and chef Nigel Ward is set to open Passeggiata in Waverley. Ward has taken over an entire building and stripped it from top to tail to create a restaurant and wine bar that draws on his past and serves locals. “I’m trying to build the…

Melbourne is beloved for its rooftop bars, but now it has an elevated space with a difference. Melbourne Skyfarm is set to open this year, transforming a public rooftop carpark into a bountiful urban farm in the CBD. The education, hospitality and farming hub is the first of its kind in the state, and is set to have an education space, a café and eatery, alongside conference facilities and event spaces. With crops of vegetables and herbs already thriving, the next phase of the venue will allow visitors to tour the verdant oasis, visit and sample from the rooftop orchard and herb gardens, dine at the sustainable café and enjoy drinks with views of the Yarra and Melbourne’s skyline. There will also be classes centred on sustainable living, regenerative practices…

It’s become the alternative milk of choice for every other coffee order, and now the humble grain is shapeshifting into a meat alternative. Pulled Oats may sound like something found on a breakfast menu, but is actually a new plant-based protein. Hitting Australian shelves this year, Pulled Oats is made from oats, faba bean and pea protein, water, rapeseed oil and spices. Intended to be a protein option in its own right, the product was developed by Finnish brand Gold & Green. The soft texture resembles pulled pork, but with a muted, sweet-yet-savoury flavour. Try it as an alternative to tofu or in place of meat in your next lasagne. goldandgreenfoods.com…

TASMANIA Located in the centre of Hobart’s Midtown, The Rox is a new luxury self-contained accommodation option in the CBD. With interior concepts completed by Tess Newman-Morris, (best known for her work on Satellite Island), each apartment showcases Tasmanian furniture makers, ceramicists and designers. The Rox has also joined forces with Sonny. Matt Breen and the team will deliver a slice of Hobart’s coolest vinyl and wine bar straight to your room, with a daily changing set menu. NEW SOUTH WALES The Southern Highlands is getting its own Cotswolds-inspired luxury boutique getaway via Osborn House. The 22-suite property in Bundanoon is being overseen by Adam Abrams (Matteo Double Bay and The Island) and Eddie Levy (Lobo Plantation and Kittyhawk). London-based designer Linda Boronkay (former lead creative at Soho House) has…

Having José Roca on our shores in Sydney is the greatest and most welcome gift. His global experience, compassion, and eloquent way of seeing the world is entirely unique. I particularly love José’s collaborative approach to his work, which has seen him enlist a local team of curators to enhance his concept for the Biennale of Sydney, weaving in their local knowledge and ideas. Humble, spacious and truly sustainable. Just like watercolour, acrylic or sculpture, exhibition is a medium in itself – a type of artwork, as well as the materials used to create it. This idea is central to José Roca’s approach to the 23rd Biennale of Sydney, set to take place between March and June. “The outcome is the exhibition, which is a creation that wasn’t there before,”…

NV House of Arras ‘A by Arras’ Rosé, Tasmania, $35 Sourced from premium vineyards across Tasmania, this new label by the House of Arras showcases the exceptional fruit the Apple Isle has to offer. This sparkling rosé is a blend of 55 per cent pinot noir, 32 per cent chardonnay and 13 per cent pinot meunier. The result? 100 per cent delicious. houseofarras.com.au 2020 Holm Oak Arneis, Tamar Valley, $28 Holm Oak boasts Tasmania’s only arneis, planted in 2007 after a long search for an “alternative variety” to grow on the estate. Originally hailing from Piedmont in Italy, the wine exhibits lean, riesling-like mineral characters, while fermentation in ceramic eggs and older barrels adds texture. holmoakvineyards.com.au 2020 Two Tonne Tasmania ‘TMV’ Chardonnay, Tamar Valley, $35 Crafted from two distinct sites…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE COOKING TIP If you don’t have any house bricks use two cast-iron frying pans to cover the Marylands in threes. Pollo al mattone with peach and barley salad SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 30 MINS 6 chicken Marylands4 garlic cloves, crushed1 cup firmly packed mint leaves Zest and juice of 2 lemons100 ml extra-virgin olive oil12 rosemary sprigs200 gm (1 cup) pearl barley2 tsp Dijon mustard1 each yellow and white peaches, cut into thin wedges60 gm Sicilian green olives, pitted, halved50 gm caperberries, half thinly sliced, half whole50 gm finely grated truffle pecorino (see note), plus extra to serve 1 Make 4 slashes crossways into skin of each chicken Maryland. Grind garlic, ½ cup mint leaves, lemon zest and 1 tsp…

ANNITA POTTER, VIAND David Thompson’s former right-hand woman brings her intimate, personal expression of Thai dining to Sydney’s Woolloomooloo neighbourhood. Restaurants throughout Australia, Asia and Europe. Hosting guided luxury boat tours along the Mekong. Consulting to Jaan Bai, a social enterprise in Battambang established by the Cambodian Children’s Trust: if keeping tabs on David Thompson’s (pre-Covid) movements was hard as an eater, spare a thought for Annita Potter. For close to a decade, Perth-born Potter was the Thai food authority’s executive chef and travelled the world working on Thompson’s myriad projects and eateries. After helping steer Thompson’s Hong Kong fine-diner Aaharn to a Michelin star in 2019, Potter went solo at year’s end to pursue, in her words, “a little slice of normality”. And then Covid hit. Unable to find…

It’s the sensory reaction that can deliver pure joy or abject horror. For chefs, it can define careers. And while it can’t be taught, you can train yourself to appreciate different flavours. So just what exactly happens when you put food in your mouth and why do we all experience it differently? “Taste and aroma work together to make flavour, but they are in fact different things,” explains molecular nutritionist Dr Emma Beckett. There are five basic tastes that occur in the mouth, which we are all familiar with: sweet, savoury, bitter, salt and sour. At the same time, we experience aroma through our nose.“This gives you the rest of the complexity of the food flavour experience – all the unique flavours like vanilla, chicken or strawberry. These exist in…

Beach has been in Byron for more thab 20 years – how does it feel to join the family? It just feels like the perfect group is here. You’ve got co-owners Ben and Belinda Kirkwood. They’ve been here for two decades, and are so passionate and have an amazing lay of the land. Fink group also joined, they are partners, so you’ve got that kind of support and knowledge from a big business perspective as well. I just can’t believe my luck. I’m really, really excited to be part of it. Byron Bay is increasingly becoming known for its quality produce – how are you hoping to bring this into your new role as head chef? Getting to know the farmers here has been a really natural progression. There is…

Beauty and respect are words Ronni Kahn uses repeatedly when talking about Refettorio, a new restaurant and community space in Sydney’s Surry Hills run by OzHarvest. “For me it’s about creating a public-facing space for OzHarvest, that highlights dignity and respect, by providing a beautiful gourmet-quality meal to our guests,” explains chief executive Kahn. The words ring true once you enter the space. The restaurant offers meals at no charge to those in need, on par with the neighbouring cafés and restaurants that line Crown Street and beyond. The considered three-course meal uses produce rescued by OzHarvest, and rather than being a hand-out, it’s a restaurant experience. “Within 5 kms of the space there are 5000 people in need. It doesn’t always look like it because of the gentrified shops,…

Sydney’s Marrickville is home to a new creative space where you can truly get behind the wheel. Clay Cartel is a new pottery studio from potters and ceramicists Shannon Lewis and Shinhee Ma, joined by chef-turned-potter Daniel Mulligan. After working in kitchens for 20 years and on the verge of burnout, Mulligan turned to pottery to help him find a sense of balance outside of the kitchen. In 2016 he traded his chef’s knives for trimming tools and throwing knives. These days he produces tableware for restaurants and cafés, and joined forces with Ma and Lewis to open the studio. The trio now hope to share their talents with the community, offering a studio space where people can learn the basics of throwing down clay and develop their practice. There’s…

I was born in Bangladesh. We migrated when I was six and I grew up all around Western Sydney: I’ve lived in Ashfield, in Blacktown, in Auburn, in Strathfield. My mum is an amazing cook. She learnt everything she knows from her mum, and I’ve learnt everything I know from her… Growing up in the ’90s, we didn’t have a lot of the ingredients that you can get now, all the Indian supermarkets weren’t really around back then. She used to have to experiment. I remember her making rotis with sheets of puff pastry; that was something she invented. It actually worked really well! Growing up in a South Asian family, I think mums don’t really think that their sons will want to learn how to cook. And I didn’t…

GT TEAM FAVOURITE 1. THE KIMCHI COMPANY VEGAN KIMCHI The Kimchi Company makes its kimchi with ingredients strictly sourced from the Chung-Cheong-Do region of South Korea. A key component is the high-altitude Napa cabbage, which offers a crisp yet chewy texture. There’s a confident kick of acidity, too. Mix through fried rice, add to noodles or try your hand at kimchi jeon (pancakes). $6.20 for 330gm, kimchicompany.com.au 2. SOUTH COAST KIMCHI CO DAIKON RADISH KIMCHI Kkakdugi, as it’s known in Korean, is defined by its solid cubes of radish; here, they’re sourced from the Southern Highlands and offer a bright, crunchy freshness. Fragrant garlic chives elevate the mix and add a herbaceous complexity, while ganjang (soy sauce) helps to round out the flavour. $16 for 500gm, southcoastkimchico.com.au 3. MOON MART…

Alcohol-free cocktails may not take the discerning drinker’s fancy at first, but when done well, they can be as invigorating as the real deal. Since opening in April, Australia’s first alcohol-free distillery and bar, Brunswick Aces in Melbourne, has attracted a solid clientele of sober and sober-curious drinkers as the team produces well-known cocktail flavours, sans the alcohol. Take The Brunswick – their twist on a gin sour. “The sour cocktail family is as renowned as it is delicious,” says Stuart Henshall, Brunswick Aces brand director. “It was important for us to be able to recreate an equally enjoyable non-alcoholic experience with The Brunswick. Texture, flavour and presentation are the headlining qualities of this drink.” It’s sweet, aromatic and bitter, with fragrant botanical complexities from the addition of their own…

Considered by many to be Sri Lanka’s national dish, this coconut-laden accompaniment is a flavourful yet simple recipe to add to your repertoire. A little bit sour, a little bit spicy, and naturally sweet – a spoonful sitting atop just-fried roti makes for a harmonious bite. Pol sambol can be consumed in countless ways. Add a spoonful to curries for some extra tang or bring a spicy kick to eggs on toast. Step by step 1 To make roti, combine 40gm desiccated coconut with 1 tbsp warm water in a large bowl. Stand for 5 minutes. Add remaining 1 finely chopped red shallot to coconut mixture with 300gm plain flour, 1 tbsp finely chopped curry leaves, 1 finely chopped long green chilli and 1 tsp fine sea salt; stir until…

At most restaurants, if diners get up and walk out on a regular basis, it’s cause for alarm. At Pino’s – a charming Italian spot in the Newcastle suburb of Islington – it’s something of a matter of course. “At least once a week, we'll get tables that just walk straight out,” says director and chef Dion May. On top of the walk-outs, there’s a pretty good chance of copping an earful of negative feedback. “It happens at least a good few times a week, if not nightly,” he says. These strong reactions aren’t about the quality of the food. Or even what’s on the menu. Rather, it’s what’s not on the menu that sends diners into a tailspin. Because although Pino’s is classically Italian – serving up a small,…

What does it mean to eat sustainably today? A commonly accepted definition is that sustainable eating is choosing food that is healthy for both your body and the environment. And, given that raising livestock consumes one-third of the world’s fresh water, guidelines often suggest moving to plant-based eating. What if we reduced our reliance on traditional agriculture by learning to love invasive species instead? That’s the premise of artist and curator Kirsha Kaechele’s project and lavish art book, Eat the Problem. “It’s the practice of turning shit into gold,” she writes in the book’s introduction. “And solving multiple problems at once, which is what systems-based thinking is. An action has to do more than one thing. Which also gets us off the hook for the failure of any single goal:…

p105 Crispy rice sushi MAKES 20 PREP + COOK TIME 50 MINS (PLUS STANDING, CHILLING) 1½ cups (300gm) sushi rice¼ cup (60ml) rice wine vinegar2 tbsp mirin4 red radishes, thinly sliced¼ cup (60ml) grapeseed oil2 cups (160gm) shredded green cabbage1 large avocado, thinly sliced1 spring onion, thinly sliced Shichimi togarashi and toasted black and white sesame seeds, to serve MISO LIME SAUCE 2 tsp white (shiro) miso paste2 tsp tamari2 tsp mirin2 tsp grapeseed oil2 tsp sesame oil2 tsp finely grated fresh ginger1 tsp finely grated lime rind 1 Place rice in a sieve and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Place rice and 450ml water in a medium saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for 10…

It’s a sacred site, revered as the birthplace of the creator being, the Rainbow Serpent. After bouncing about on a hot dirt track, there are few sights more welcome than a smiling lodge host bearing a chilled glass of bubbles. It’s an apt introduction to Mt Mulligan Lodge, a unique north Queensland getaway, which genuinely merits the description “outback escape”. Our original plan was to helicopter in – a quick 35-minute trip from Cairns – but a sudden tropical storm grounded air traffic, so we’ve switched to a 4WD. Since turning off at the small township of Dimbulah, we’ve passed just one dusty ute and a handful of floppy-eared Bos indicus cattle. I’ve been hanging out for a first glimpse of Mount Mulligan, our destination lodge’s namesake, since leaving Brisbane.…

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