Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2022 i Gourmet Traveller

SUBSCRIBE NOW magshop.com.au/gmt Details p84 The last time I swam in the Mediterranean was three years ago, in the grey half light that fills the sky just before dawn. Our early morning dip capped off a night of endless dancing and laughter as we celebrated my best friend’s wedding on the tiny island of Poros in Greece. Together with about 70 other guests, we took over a small seaside resort and embarked on a week of festivities that saw us spend our days floating in the Med and our evenings eating at different tavernas around the island. It was heaven. Imagine my surprise, as I sat poolside at Brisbane’s lush Calile Hotel last year, to find myself transported back to that halcyon holiday, as I dined at Hellenika for the first…

Cloudy Bay and East 33’s Natural Wonders tour With vistas like this, the journey is nearly as delightful as the destination, when you hop aboard a seaplane to visit East 33’s oyster farm at Wallis Lake in NSW. There, you’ll be treated to an oyster-inspired three-course lunch with matching Cloudy Bay wines. Jordan Kretchmer, writer Mosconi, Brisbane Catherine Anders’ cooking is a Mediterranean masterclass in how to make the best produce taste even better. These tender Freemantle octopus tentacles, resting on a simple white bean purée, brightened by a sauce vierge, tastily illustrate her deftness of touch. 164B Arthur St, Fortitude Valley, Qld. Fiona Donnelly, Qld state editor El Grotto, Perth Perth’s favourite beachside cantina pays tribute to the beloved tortas of Mexico via this flank steak, refried black bean…

Can you tell us about how you developed the menu at Lola’s Level 1? When I met [the owners] Manny and Marco, the idea was to do something more Mediterranean, not just Italian. I’m from Argentina but I have a Spanish background in my family, so I grew up in an Italian-Spanish environment. I’m not afraid to see new things, to learn new things, and to taste. What are some of your favourite dishes on the menu? I love the socarrat. It’s a crisp rice, which is not like a risotto or a paella – it’s a bit different. It took me a while to train the staff to do it because it’s quite tricky. I also love the pan tumaca, which is like a bruschetta, the only difference is…

Food For Everyone founder and artist Gemma Leslie has just released a third round of her recipe-meets-charity posters. Made in collaboration with long-standing and upcoming chefs and authors, the series creates visual representations of recipes, with half of all profits from sales being donated to food banks, including OzHarvest, SecondBite and Asylum Seeker Resource Centre. The latest series of A2 posters includes recipes by Guillaume Brahimi (apple tarte Tatin with vanilla bean crème anglaise), author Emiko Davies (tagliolini al limone) and this month’s Gourmet Traveller cover star Simon Gloftis (Hellenika’s htapodi). Growing since its inception last year, Food For Everyone now includes plates, a colouring book and tea towels. “It began as a project to raise money for those struggling at the height of the pandemic, and today we’re a…

ROZA’S DILL AND PARSLEY Chopped herbs are a vibrant addition here, giving Roza’s velvety spread a wonderfully garden-fresh flavour. This one is as versatile as it is delicious and works wonders with seafood. Layer on toasted sourdough and serve with mussels; pair with chunky hot chips and battered fish; or elevate your dinner-party blinis with a generous dollop.  $9 for 240ml, harrisfarm.com.au KEWPIE WASABI Japanese mayo label Kewpie is a cult-classic the world over, and for good reason. The OG mayonnaise is silky, sweet and packs a perfect umami punch – add wasabi oil and horseradish to the mix and the result is this bright, sinus-clearing condiment. Drizzle over rice bowls or pair with miso-roasted salmon for a piquant kick. $5.85 for 300ml, twoprovidores.com.au GIN MAYO The brightly illustrated tube…

Most vegetable varieties have ancient pedigrees. Pumpkins were domesticated in Central America around 9,000 years ago. Egyptian frescoes from 3000 BCE depict lettuces and onions. The sugar snap pea is the youngest vegetable we grow; a baby at just 50 years old. Sugar snap peas’ roots are ancient, however. We know that wild peas, native to the eastern Mediterranean, were foraged from nature since Neolithic times. The first evidence of their domestication is in Turkey, in around 7500 BC. It took a further 1500 years for them to spread westwards to Europe, and another 5000 for them to travel eastwards to Asia. These were not the shiny green nuggets we shake out of freezer bags today, however. For most of their history, peas were dried and used as a “grain”,…

Floral, sharp, sweet and sour, the Tommy’s Margarita has become a modern icon in the world of classic cocktails. Built from just a few staple ingredients, it’s simple enough to pull off at home, but must always be made with 100 per cent agave tequila and never mixto tequila, which has corn or cane sugar added prior to fermentation. A riff on the classic Margarita (which comprises tequila, triple sec and lime), the Tommy’s was first concocted in the late-1980s. “The inventor Julio Bermejo, who named the cocktail after his family’s San Francisco restaurant, wanted to create something that expressed the nuances of tequila and agave without any distraction of the salt,” says Liber Osorio, co-founder and director of Milpa Collective in Sydney. “By replacing the triple sec with agave…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Farinata with blistered tomatoes and chilli chickpeas SERVES 2 //PREP TIME 10 MINS //COOK 25 MINS (PLUS RESTING) 250 gm canned chickpeas, rinsed, drained, pat dry100 ml olive oil, plus extra to shallow fry½ tsp paprika1 long red chilli, thinly sliced250 gm vine-ripened cherry tomatoes1 avocado, peeled, stone removed, cut into wedges1 cup loosely packed watercress Lemon wedges, to serve FARINATA BATTER 100 gm chickpea flour250 ml cold water1 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and rosemary 1 To make farinata batter, blend all ingredients with 1 tsp salt in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a jug, cover and set aside at room temperature to rest (30 minutes). 2 Heat 1cm oil in a large, deep frying pan over medium-high heat. Add…

When Fofi Gourlas was a teenager, her parents gave her a nickname: hortofaga, or “weedeater”. It was a gently jibing, affectionate term. In Greek, the word refers to the idea of a certain bovine-slowness at the dinner table, as well as a love of eating greens. Growing up in suburban Sydney in the 1970s, Gourlas has happy memories of weekend expeditions to the Blue Mountains to forage for wild dandelions with her mother. Less pleasant are the memories of her classmates’ horrified reactions when they clocked what was in her lunchbox – which was invariably fragrant with the typical Greek flavours of garlic, oregano and parsley. “As soon as I unwrapped it, it just reeked,” she says. “I always felt really embarrassed.” She soon convinced her mother to pack her…

UP TO $200,000 cash* giveaway See if you’re an instant winner when you subscribe. Subscriber benefits 12 issues of Gourmet Traveller from $69.99 Save 42% Free home delivery and follow the instructions upon confirmation *This prize will be awarded as a $100 Visa or Mastercard gift card. Order online at magshop.com.au/xmas28 or call 136 116 and quote M21XGMT Yes, I would like to subscribe to Gourmet Traveller PAYMENT OPTIONS (Australian rates) I wish to subscribe for (tick one only) HURRY! OFFER ENDS JANUARY 31, 2022. SUBSCRIBING IS EASY 136 116 and quote M21XGMT, Monday to Friday 8am–6pm AEDT. Overseas dial +61 2 8667 5100 magshop.com.au/xmas28 Send original or copy of this coupon (no stamp required) to: Magshop Reply Paid 5252 Sydney, NSW, 2000 *Savings based on Gourmet Traveller cover price of $9.99.…

A steaming bowl of pasta is a very fine thing, but it’s the gelato eaten in the dappled sunshine a few hours later that really delights, and in a different way too, because it is a treat. The knowledge that it is something special, a little luxury, an indulgence, not just sustenance, makes the pleasure even more poignant. This is because, unlike the majority of savoury Italian dishes, the focus is not on harking back to times of poverty and ‘la cucina povera’, but instead a celebration of the arrival of sugar in Italy, introduced by the Arabs. Italians have a sweet tooth to rival my own, and while Italian sweets are sometimes internationally overlooked, there are enough cakes, biscuits and pastries to keep even the sweetest tooth content. The…

Neolokal, chef Maksut Askar’s restaurant inside the SALT Galata museum, is one of Istanbul’s most exciting fine-diners and draws heavily on Askar’s southern Turkish heritage. Although Askar was born in Hatay – a province on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast – he has developed a strong understanding of the diversity of Anatolian cuisine. Best of all, he knows where to find these regional flavours in Istanbul. Prepare to have your Turkish food horizons broadened at these must-visit locations. A FARM-TO-TABLE CAFÉ I spend two weekends a month in Yeniköy, which is home to one of my favourite cafés: Apartıman. It’s run by four siblings. One brother is in charge of the restaurant, one sister is in charge of the morning menu and the other sister is in charge of the evening menu.…

THE INTELLIGENT EDIT A sweep of bronzer in the right shade can give your complexion an instant pick-me-up. Of course, that’s also the trickiest part of this seemingly simple transaction: the shade. Get it right, and you’re dining companions will ask which island paradise you’ve just returned from. Your skin will have a gorgeous hit of warmth (without the sun damage) and you’ll quietly glow. However, like many base steps, bronzer can easily go wrong if the shade doesn’t suit your skin tone, resulting in a muddy wash that will do little for your complexion or confidence. To find the right match, avoid any bronzer that looks too orange, as the result will be unnatural. Instead, opt for a shade that’s one or two tones darker than your skin. As…

Oroton for pets Just when you thought your best friend couldn’t get any cuter, Oroton has unveiled a stylish new range of pet accessories, including dog leads and leather collars in a range of sizes. oroton.com Aje x Local Supply Australian fashion house Aje has teamed up with ethical sunglass brand Local Supply to create an exclusive range of sunnies that are stylish, sustainable and support local charities with every purchase. localsupply.com Svante Officially a watering can, this playful creation by Swedish designers Mats Broberg and Johan Ridderstråle serves up both form and function. Available in copper, brass and nickel. robertplumb.com.au WHERE WE’RE GOING Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto After premiering in Paris in 2020, this must-see exhibition makes its international debut at the National Gallery of Victoria. Follow it up…

MELBOURNE Kata Kita is the second restaurant from the Sanusi family, opening on La Trobe Street in Melbourne’s CBD. Showcasing Indonesian hospitality by combining traditional recipes with locally sourced produce, order up babi guling (five-hour slow-roasted spiced pork) with lawar (vegetables with coconut and fried shallot sambal); and Indonesian-style hot and spicy crab. The family also want to familiarise people with bebek goreng madura, a slowly simmered duck dish, served with lemongrass and galangal sambal. Also in the CBD, QT Melbourne is bringing an extra hit of luxury to its lobby, with the arrival of the Champagne Bar. Bottles of vintage Champagne and Martinis can be enjoyed alongside the new snack menu replete with lobster rolls and oysters. Connie’s Pizza is moving on up to a bigger home above Heartbreaker.…

1. Which Italian cheese is named after sheep’s milk? 2. In wine terms, what does blanc de blancs mean? 3. Jollof rice is considered the national dish of which country? 4. Campari, red vermouth and soda water are the three ingredients for which classic cocktail? 5. What does bánh mì translate to? 6. Which celebrity does not have their own cooking show — Lady Gaga, Paris Hilton or Selena Gomez? 7. Now considered a culinary delicacy, what were Akoya originally farmed for? 8. True or false: jackfruit is the largest tree-borne fruit in the world. 9. Name two types of Japanese noodles. 10. What are juvenile oysters known as? 11. Name the three main types of grapes used to make Champagne. 12. What’s the name for a Korean paste made…

Spreadable cheese may sound like something that should only appear in children’s lunch boxes, but hold that thought and trust cheesemonger Anthony Femia. Finca Valdivieso is a family-run dairy that began making Manchego in 1880 and its Manchego cream cheese combines summer truffle harvested from Soria with the raw milk cheese. It is now being exclusively imported by Melbourne’s Maker and Monger. “It’s best served alongside lightly toasted crusty sourdough that’s been rubbed with fresh garlic and thinly sliced Iberico jamón,” says Femia. $25, makerandmonger.com.au BOOK NOW Fresh from a successful season in Melbourne, Moulin Rouge! The Musical will touch down at Sydney’s Capitol Theatre in May. moulinrougemusical.com…

My parents moved to Australia from New Zealand when I was 16 and my brother stayed behind because he was already at university. What we didn’t know was that we would never, to this day, ever live in the same country at the same time, ever again. We haven’t had that home that you trek back to every Christmas; we’ve been much more of a literal and figurative moveable feast… But about three years ago, my brother and his wife bought a farm in the South Island of New Zealand. There was no house on it, but we decided that we would go camping there. So for three weeks, all of us descended. My mum produced a full Christmas dinner that we ate out in the middle of a field…

Something interesting is happening with the way we’re starting to discuss Tasmania as it relates to wine. “The sceptics would say Tasmania is all one GI, but it’s very easy to refute that when you see the wines coming out of all the different regions,” says winemaker Peter “Dredgey” Dredge. As he refers to it, GI stands for Geographical Indicator, a fancy (and legal) way of describing where a wine is made. Discussions around GIs often take place over time when the broader wine narrative of place pushes against the nuance of a sub-region. We’ve seen a similar push-pull tension when talking about GIs in Central Otago in New Zealand’s South Island. Similarly, winemakers have the option of labelling wines under the umbrella of one static region or a specific…

It’s an idyllic scene: people of all ages, small knives in hand, foraging for wild greens – “horta” – on rugged Greek cliffsides. The various deeply coloured leaves, bitter and delicious, are breezily thrown together with feta and herbs to fill crisp golden pastry. Just like its much-loved spinach-only relative spanakopita, this savoury pie is perfect shared warm from the oven or packed up for an alfresco picnic. Step by step 1 For olive oil pastry, process 400gm plain flour and a large pinch of salt in a food processor to combine to rough breadcrumbs; add egg and pulse until just combined. With motor running, gradually add 80ml extra-virgin olive oil and 100ml cold water and process until dough just comes together; turn onto a work surface and knead until…

GUY GROSSI, Grossi Florentino, Vic For me, there are two standouts that I just can’t wait to visit. The first is Dario Cecchini – the butcher of Panzano in Chianti, Tuscany. His food doesn’t just speak of heritage, region and tradition, it shouts it from the rooftops. Dario has a number of spots that show off the amazing bounty from the local Chianina cattle; one is his family’s macelleria, where you can enjoy meatballs made from lean meat, served rare and skewered with local rosemary. The other is the restaurant Officina, where you can have a quintessential bistecca alla Fiorentina experience, which involves a perfectly grilled T-bone weighing more than a kilo. The second destination has to be Uliassi, Mauro Uliassi’s amazing beachside dining room in Senigallia. It is a…

Dreaming of nabbing a lazy Mediterranean-style breakfast by the pool next time you’re in Brisbane? How about fat slices of oozy soft-boiled egg, scattered with salty bottarga, sitting on a bed of taramasalata on toast? Or as it’s described on Hellenika’s menu – eggs with eggs with eggs. It’s just one of the signature dishes served at the Sunshine State’s top Greek eatery. More than a decade after the opening of the first Hellenika on the Gold Coast – it’s now at the Calile Hotel – Hellenika has grown into something more elaborate. But the estiatorio’s warm taverna heart still beats strongly. For owner Simon Gloftis it’s all about respecting family traditions by using the best produce he can find. “I’m able to put the food I want on our…

The word “Mediterranean” is one of those transcendental words that we see, taste and feel the moment we hear it. Immediately evocative of grassy, aromatic olive oil, unctuous chunks of broken bread, the scent of lemons, the sweet sensation of sunshine and salt on bare skin, it’s useful shorthand for a way of eating, and a way of living, that we all aspire to. And yet despite its enviable global brand recognition, the word buckles under pressure. Some 20 sovereign nations are technically classed as Mediterranean, a wide variety of cultures with distinct cuisines, from Albania to Syria. Ever since the British cookery writer Elizabeth David first described a unified Mediterranean cuisine in her 1950 recipe book A Book of Mediterranean Food, chefs and writers have tried to pin down…

Light blue water, white-washed buildings, bronzed bodies, golden beaches. The Mediterranean is more than the glittering basin between southern Europe and North Africa; it’s an aesthetic trigger. So harmonious is the sun-bleached colour palette to the eye, that mere memories switch the brain to holiday mode, suspending the senses in a glorious state where the full spectrum of the human experience pares back to in-the-moment bliss. Ah the Med, it’s been a while. But, while Australia had our walls up, the operators in this sunseekers’ paradise have upped the ante on their luxury tourism offering. Old properties were renovated, new terroirs were claimed by prestigious hotel brands, and modernday themes of sustainability and wellness have rippled through the coastline. All the while, we hung framed pictures of umbrella-lined beach bars…

Sydney’s usual mid-afternoon breeze is swaying the shoreside eucalypts and chopping the bottle-green waves as our ride pulls up at the Birchgrove jetty in the city’s inner west. Our skipper, Daniel Da Silva, expertly guides our vessel, La Dolce Vita, alongside the weathered white pylons. He looks the part in a crisp shirt and striped epaulettes. Da Silva may be pulling the levers and turning the wheel but the boat itself is the real star of the scene. La Dolce Vita is a classic Italian speedboat, complete with polished chrome accents. The 26-foot Comitti Portofino runabout was built in 2002 from a single African mahogany log and imported to Australia from its birthplace on Lake Como. Similar models, usually made by the better-known brand Riva, swept Brigitte Bardot around the…

If you’re not familiar with the wonders of sake, this new edition from the mountains of the Aichi Prefecture is the ideal introduction. Sake Sake’s Junmai is a contemporary take – replete with its Jonathan Zawada-designed label and unusual food pairing suggestions – on 2500 years of tradition. Direct from Sekiya Brewery, it uses rice, water and koji to create bright, balanced pure sake, with blossoming floral notes and a subtle, savoury backbone. $69, sakesake.me Christmas may be over but there’s still time to treat yourself with a subscription to Gourmet Traveller and the chance to win a share of up to $200k cash. magshop.com.au/xmas28…

When Anthony Puharich opened Victor Churchill in Sydney 12 years ago, he didn’t anticipate the global recognition the butchery would receive. Now, with some time to reflect and grow, he’s brought the concept to Melbourne. “They say, ‘If it ain’t broke don’t fix it,’ and Victor Churchill has been referred to as the most beautiful butcher shop in the world, so I’ve applied the same thinking,” says Puharich. “But I never would have gotten away with a copycat version of the Sydney shop. I had to give Melbourne their own thing. It’s got tweaks and improvements for them to feel proud of.” The familiarity of Churchill’s avant-garde meat market remains in all its marble-floored and copper-accented glory, with the spectacle of butchers at work and fat-marbled steaks arranged artfully, the…

I deeply admire Marlon Motlop for his talent as a professional sportsperson, musician, singer, songwriter and Indigenous grower and farmer. Marlon embodies and practices the ancient wisdom of his First Nations heritage channelling this powerful energy and becoming an incredible role model for all. Marlon Motlop has fond memories of growing up in Darwin, feasting on native citrus fruits such as lemon aspen and ocean-fishing for barramundi and mud crabs off the northern coastline. It was these small adventures that sparked a quiet interest in native foods for Motlop, but it wasn’t until later in life that it became a fully-fledged passion. The former AFL player, who enjoyed a five-year tenure kicking goals for Port Adelaide Football Club, is now farm manager at The Native Co – a family-run company…

2019 Pooley ‘Cooinda Vale’ Chardonnay, Coal River Valley, $65 There are many examples of outstanding chardonnay from southern Tasmania, but this single-vineyard drop from the Pooley family is exceptional. Perfumed pears meet oyster shell salinity with a tightly wound acidity that is the perfect side to sunshine and prawns. pooleywines.com.au 2021 Meadowbank Gamay, Derwent Valley, $45 There’s a reason why this wine has a cult following; it’s a textbook example of a “crunchy, chilled red”. The combination of established vines (from 1987) and newer 2015 plantings create a depth of flavour rarely seen in this variety. meadowbank.com.au 2019 Hughes & Hughes Riveaux Road Vermouth, D’Entrecasteaux Channel, $45 This bitter-sweet vermouth is made with pinot noir and syrah from the Derwent Valley and the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, and aromatised with locally sourced…

One of Jerusalem’s most heroed plates, fattoush, sits on a throne above all other salads, and rightfully so. A fragrant jumble of crisp vegetables, golden pita and a flourish of sumac, all drizzled with lemon and olive oil, it’s an ode to the Mediterranean and the region’s long, hot summers. Deriving from the traditional Egyptian and Levantine fatteh (pita, topped with basically anything you like), this dish is almost as common in Jerusalem as hummus. In his cookbook, Jerusalem, chef and author Yotam Ottolenghi says: “Wherever you go in the city, at any time of the day, a Jerusalemite is most likely to have a plate of chopped vegetables – tomato, cucumber and onion, dressed in olive and lemon juice – served next to whatever else they are having.” Different…

1 Nagesh Seethiah cooks scallops in ghee over charcoal and serves them with fermented green mango at Manzé, Melbourne’s first Mauritian wine bar. His menu reflects the island’s Asian, French and African influences. Enjoy prawn samosas, lamb with masala and vegan vindaye with Mauritian beer, spiced rum or something great from Moira Tithra’s wine list, which showcases under-represented producers. manze.com.au 2 Sommelier Bridget Raffal cofounded Women and Revolution to promote female winemakers. Plot a trip and visit one of her recommended producers: Irina Santiago-Brown (Inkwell Wines, McLaren Vale, South Australia), who creates bright, minimal-intervention drops; Shashi Singh (Avani, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria), who “makes beautiful shiraz”; Charlotte Hardy (Charlotte Dalton, Port Elliot, South Australia), “her barrel-fermented semillon is a particular favourite of mine”; or Tessa Brown (Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown, Beechworth,…

Green shakshuka with Brussels sprouts, olives and labne SERVES 4 //PREP & COOK TIME 30 MINS Sicilian green olives and labne give this classic North African and Middle Eastern dish a Mediterranean twist, making it perfect for breakfast, lunch or tea. 80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil300 gm small Brussels sprouts, halved1 medium leek (350gm), thinly sliced2 cloves garlic, crushed150 gm kale, coarsely chopped125 ml (½ cup) vegetable stock8 eggs60 gm (¼ cup) pitted Sicilian green olives, chopped¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley2 tsp finely grated lemon rind125 gm (½ cup) labne 1 Preheat grill to high. 2 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large heavy-based ovenproof frying pan over medium heat. Add Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring, until browned and almost tender (3-4 minutes). Add leek, garlic…

On the Fleurieu Peninsula, just 40 kilometres south of Adelaide, McLaren Vale is an undulating, vineyard-latticed valley meandering down through a horseshoe of hills to a pristine coastline rimmed by aquamarine waters. Moderated by sea breezes and enlivened by immoderate winemakers and assorted other characters, it embodies a sweet spot of nurtured nature, what might even be called a Mediterranean state of mind, done in a distinctly Aussie way. “Gulf St Vincent sure resembles the Mediterranean, only we have better sand,” says Mark Lloyd of Coriole Vineyards. His son, Peter, adds, “We’ve certainly taken some cues from the Old World but, with our ease and openness, we’ve developed our own home-grown style.” A magnet for Italian immigrants after World War II, McLaren Vale became one of Australia’s first areas to…

AU NATUREL Strip back the colour palette and create a sense of calm with cork, linen and shapely earthenware. COUNTRY COOL Rustic farmhouse meets modern minimalism in this white, bright and welcoming kitchen. HOME INSPIRATION…