Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

I have the cold sweat of dread tickling my neck as I write this, wary of tempting fate to prove me wrong, once again. But all going to plan (remember those?) by the time you read this, Sydney’s restaurants will once again be open for business, with Melbourne just moments away from joining them. Like everyone, I’ve been dreaming about where to go first (…and second… and third). In fact, I have booked about 10 meals out in the next fortnight, and I intend to relish every one of them. Several will be at establishments featured in this issue, as we present the 2022 Restaurant Awards and Guide. In addition to our individual award winners, we have also rounded up the Top 80 restaurants across Australia. And of course, we…

Abrolhos Islands, Western Australia Yes, the water really is that blue. And no, that shoreline hasn’t been photoshopped. East Wallabi Island, part of the spectacular Abrolhos Islands, was the perfect backdrop for the inaugural Abrolhos Long Table, an all-day beach party with Vasse Felix chef Brendan Pratt tending the (local seafood) barbie. Start planning now for the return of Shore Leave Festival in May. Max Veenhuyzen, WA state editor Frank’s Deli, Sydney Waverley now beholds this deli cornucopia, where condiments reign supreme and the sandwiches are dressed and pressed to the nines. Opt for the scrambled egg and LP’s brisket breakfast sandwich; or the hearty Reuben. 279 Bronte Rd, Waverley, NSW. Jordan Kretchmer, writer Lyre’s Non-Alcoholic Amaretti Silly season will be a little less silly this year thanks to my growing…

1 Bed Threads These scalloped scene setters are made from 100 per cent French flax linen, and come in five contrasting colourways. $80 for set of four, bedthreads.com.au 2 Kip & Co This uniquely printed linen placemat bears an ikat design by the Melbourne-based brand. $99 for set of six, kipandco.com.au 3 The Collector Store These handwoven jute fibre placemats will add pizazz to any tablescape. Along with cute woven crabs, you’ll also find a lobster, octopus and pineapple designs. From $95, collectorstore.com.au GIVING BACK “What we’re concerned about in the next few months of the pandemic, is making sure people have access to services once [government] benefits stop, and really normalising asking for help,” says Plate It Forward co-founder Shaun Christie-David. In recent months the social enterprise has partnered with P&V, Young…

SALTBUSH KITCHEN Urban rub (1) Shiitake mushrooms and tomato powder give this dynamic rub a bright kick of umami. Lemon myrtle brings a sweet underlying layer of citrus, which is amplified by a touch of sugar. Turn this into a marinade for chicken thighs by stirring through olive oil, or even sprinkle through salads for a fun and textural spice boost. $17.90 for 100gm, saltbushkitchen.com.au SARAH TODD Lively vindaloo masala (2) A gem from chef Sarah Todd’s new spice range, made with a hard-hitting mix of Kashmiri chilli, pepper and cumin, plus cassia and mustard seed to balance out the fiery intensity. While it’s made for a traditional vindaloo curry, this blend is a great excuse to throw some skewers on the barbecue. $9 for 36gm, sarahtodd.com.au OLSSON’S Salt bush…

Whether you use a little or a lot, chilli oil is a sure-fire way to add intrigue to almost any dish, bringing heat, flavour and texture. While store-bought versions are a pantry essential, nothing beats the rich aroma that fills the kitchen as you fry golden shards of garlic and caramelise shallots until they’re sticky and sweet. Plus, you can customise the chilli factor to your own personal preference. Serving suggestions This chilli oil is the perfect spicy addition, elevating a multitude of dishes with both texture and flavour. Add to dipping sauces or spoon over salads, noodles, fried rice, steamed fish, eggs or avocado toast. Step by step 1 Thinly slice 10 garlic cloves; combine in a medium heavy-based saucepan with 500ml olive oil. Place pan over medium heat…

DOOR OPEN ASSIST It’s no secret our hands can get sticky while whipping up kitchen treats, so Door Open Assist is here to let you access your dishwasher’s interior without having to fiddle with a handle. Light pressure is enough to open the door so you can stack the dishes. INTENSE CLEAN The ideal feature to make life easier after a long night spent cooking and entertaining. The Chef70° program is specially designed to take care of heavily soiled and crusted plates, pots and dishes, so you don't have to. FLEXIBLE THIRD BASKET The extra drawer here provides a third level for mugs, bowls, cutlery, and especially those awkward items you just can't seem to find a place for. There’s also a removable inlay to keep your knives safe. VARIOSPEED…

Tedesca Osteria seemed to land on the Mornington Peninsula fully formed. From the day it swung open its impressive hand-tooled timber front door and fired up its sprawling bespoke hearth, the relaxed simplicity of the restaurant was so assured it was easy to forget this was a brand-new restaurant. It also masked the fact that Tedesca is doing something quietly radical: reimagining what a restaurant can be. Chef and owner Brigitte Hafner has been shaping Tedesca in her head for years, driven by frustration at the limits placed on her in the tight confines of her former business, Gertrude Street Enoteca and by the idea that the existing punishing-hours restaurant model was no longer working for her. “Tedesca sprung from something I’d been thinking about for a long time,” says…

A six-seat restaurant with a waiting list of 8000 is a clear sign of doing something right. A supply and demand issue might also be involved but anyone who’s eaten Jung Eun Chae’s food, prepared and served in an inner-Melbourne apartment, will understand that it’s worth the wait and the hype. The flavours of her cooking, so different to the more familiar Korean dishes in Melbourne, are reason in themselves to score a booking. But Chae also gifts us something extra: an exciting reminder that with many cuisines in Australia, we’ve only just scratched the surface. Chae’s cooking is heavily influenced by her mother who’s from South Jeolla province in South Korea. It’s a region renowned for seafood, salt and fermentation and the dishes Chae is serving – heavily reliant…

The kids call it a glow up; the process by which getting older makes you more attractive. At nine years old, Monopole had become a veteran of Sydney’s fickle hospitality landscape. So the time had come to cast off its dark and brooding persona and step into a new lighter, brighter era. That move saw it relocate from Potts Point to Sydney’s CBD and embrace a quirky, colourful new aesthetic. Chef and co-owner Brent Savage devised a snackable new menu, while Nick Hildebrandt, co-owner and wine guy, curated a fresh wine list of affordable French and Australian drops. Wines from the Jura feature extensively, which Hildebrandt explains are “like drinking Burgundy, but at half the price”. To accompany the 500-plus bottle collection, Savage serves up elegant snacks (baby cucumbers topped…

SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A MEZE //PREP TIME 20 MINS //COOK 15 MINS “This dish is all about the juices of the prawns mingling in a bath of garlicky saffron butter, so ensure you use the very freshest of prawns,” says Hafner. 125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil8 large green king prawns (650gm), peeled, heads and tails intact, cleaned4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley50 ml fino sherry10 saffron threads, lightly toasted25 gm butter2 pinches of cold-smoked pimento flakes (see note)Lemon wedges, to serve 1 Heat 60ml olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Cook prawns, turning occasionally, until just cooked and lightly golden on both sides (2-3 minutes), then set aside on a plate. 2 Drain excess oil from pan and reduce…

SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A MEZE //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 30 MINS (PLUS COOLING, STANDING) “We use this complex and delicious dressing over just about any vegetable – it’s particularly lovely on baby fennel and Dutch carrots,” says Hafner. 500 gm kipfler potates or small waxy potatoes1 bunch baby or young leeks, trimmed and cut into 1cm pieces DRESSING 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil1 banana shallot, finely chopped1 garlic clove, thinly sliced4 tsp coriander seeds, toasted, crushed2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted, crushed100 ml medium-dry sherry100 ml white wine vinegar2 tsp honey1 tsp finely grated orange zest1 thyme sprig 1 Place potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Place over high heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until cooked (20-25 minutes).…

SERVES 6-8 //PREP TIME 30 MINS //COOK 1 HR (PLUS SETTING) Spring and summer are the seasons for crabs. Whether you use blue swimmer or mud crabs, neither will disappoint with their sweet, delicate flesh. 2 tbsp lemon juice1 tsp Dijon mustard60 ml (¼ cup) lemon-infused extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling500 gm cooked blue swimmer or mud crab meat (see note)100 gm salmon roeBaby red vein sorrel, to garnish POTATO ROSTI 1.25 kg Desiree potatoes2 tbsp each finely chopped thyme leaves and chives2 tbsp plain flour1 egg, lightly beaten Grapeseed oil, for shallow-frying 1 Preheat oven to 160°C. Grease and line base and sides of a 20cm x 30cm x 3cm-deep tin with baking paper. For potato rosti, coarsely grate potato and place in a large clean tea…

MAKES 2 //PREP TIME 5 MINS //COOK 5 MINS (PLUS COOLING) Peppery ginger and delicate peach flavours make this spritz pop. 80 ml (⅓ cup) gin2 tbsp peach liqueur2 tbsp lime juice1 tbsp sugar syrup (see note)2 tsp ginger bittersIce cubes and crushed ice, to shake and serveSoda water, to servePeach and lime slices, and julienned ginger, to serve 1 Combine gin, peach liqueur, lime juice, sugar syrup and bitters in a large cocktail shaker with some ice cubes; shake well to combine. Pour between cocktail glasses. Add a little crushed ice, a few peach slices, a lime slice and ginger. Top with a splash of soda water and serve immediately. Note To make sugar syrup, combine equal parts caster sugar and water in a saucepan over medium heat, stir…

SERVES 2-4 4 eggwhites¼ cups caster sugar2 tsp cornflour1 tsp distilled vinegar1 tsp vanilla bean paste3 stems rhubarb2 tbsp honey¼ cup orange juice350 gm strawberries, hulled and quartered½ cup heavy cream Edible flowers, to serve Pure icing sugar, for dusting 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a bakingtray with baking paper. Using a 22cmpan as your guide, draw a circle ontothe paper, then flip the paper over sothat the markings are facing down. 2 Place eggwhites and a pinch of fine salt into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk on low speed to break up eggwhites, then slowly increase to high and whisk until mixture has a satiny appearance and soft peaks form. Add sugar, 2 tbsp at a time, and continue whisking until…

SERVES 4 4 chicken thighs, bone in, skin on4 tbsp ras el hanout3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling1 golden shallot, sliced4 garlic cloves, finely chopped1½ cups chicken stock6 apricots, halved, kernels removed¼ cup pitted green olives¼ cup flaked almonds¼ cup coriander leaves 1 Place chicken thighs in a shallow dish with 2 tbsp ras el hanout and 1 tbsp olive oil; rub to coat. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight. 2 Preheat oven to 220°C. Heat remaining olive oil in a cast-iron frying pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken thighs, skin side down, and cook for 4-5 minutes or until skin is golden brown. Turn chicken over and cook for a further 2-3 minutes or until starting to colour. Remove…

I used to worry terribly about how to be a good guest – be it a guest in another country, or a guest at a dinner party. On a flight to, say, Bali, I would half-watch Crazy Rich Asians and sweat about how I hadn’t sufficiently swotted up on the history of the island to be a respectful tourist. And I’d arrive with a pervasive apologetic air that is rather ageing. In a bottle shop on the way to a dinner party, I’d stress over my choice of wine for the host, wrestling with conundrums such as: “I know that screwtop wine is no indication of quality, but does my boss know that a screwtop doesn’t mean cheapo?” My dad is a Protestant pastor, my mother an eye doctor who…

STAYING POWER Regardless of the shade you’re gravitating towards, one of the best ways to prep for longevity may sound a little counter-intuitive: skip balm. Makeup artists will instead hydrate lips with a fast-absorbing hyaluronic acid serum, allow it to absorb, and then finish with a dusting of setting powder. A matte formula, like Bite Beauty’s Power Move Soft Matte Lipstick in Hot Tomato, $42 (5), is also more likely to survive bubbly. GET LOUD The modern way to swipe on saturated colour is to do so with abandon, while keeping skin fresh. Use foundation only where you need it so skin feels slightly veiled, rather than done. Then, channel your inner screen siren with a classic red. For a warm-toned red, we love the Burberry Kisses Satin Lip Color…

Fico ITALIAN 151 Macquarie St, Hobart (03) 6245 3391 ficofico.net Chefs Federica Andrisani & Oskar Rossi Price guide $$$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes Fico has never been easy to categorise. Early days saw owner-chefs Federica Andrisani and Oskar Rossi embracing Italian and Japanese cuisines and those influences remain on the multi-course tasting menu – a superb sea urchin risotto flavoured with rice wine vinegar; a yuzu, white chocolate and miso caramel dessert – though the premier driving force now is Tasmania. Whether you’re talking cup-like shells of dehydrated beetroot filled with Tongola curd freckled with dried black olives, impeccably tender muttonbird drumsticks or raw morwong teamed with fresh horseradish and avocado, the commitment to the local combined with the chefs’ skill and originality is irresistible. Wine is sourced from…

Elska NORDIC 148 Merthyr Rd, New Farm 0451 955 084 elska.com.au Chefs Nathan Dunnell & Lauren Kinne Price guide $$$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes The antler on your table is a useful reminder that things can get a little wild at Elska. Not service-wise – floor staff at this intimate, Nordic-influenced, 12-seat dégustation-only fine-diner are exemplary. Décor too, avoids the outré – Scandi-blond dining chairs and sizeable round tables, and the odd reindeer skin hardly raising an eyebrow. It’s menu details that can sometimes feel mind-bending over 15 courses. Dried and savoury powdered crickets scattered (surprisingly tastily) over a disc of gamey Marburg-raised emu crudo, say, or the tart green ant garnishes on your crocodile tail dumpling, or perhaps that deeply flavoursome cream laced with marron brain and abalone…

KitchenAid food processor Give yourself the gift of time and treat yourself to KitchenAid’s new 13-cup food processor, which combines retro style with modern technology to slice, dice and blitz your way through party prep. harveynorman.com.au Krinklewood ‘Francesca’ Rosé For an Australian take on a classic Provençal rosé, we can’t go past the pale blush of this Hunter Valley drop. Made from certified biodynamic merlot and mataro fruit, it’s the perfect picnic accompaniment. And available in a magnum for extra good times. krinklewood.com Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bring a burst of sunshine to every day with this distinctive yellow dial from Rolex. If yellow’s not your speed, there are equally striking options available in bright blue, coral red, turquoise and more. rolex.com Dior Maison Heading straight to the top of our…

NSW La Salut has opened within Norfolk House and Hotel, bringing sought-after natural Spanish wines and Catalan leaning small plates to Surry Hills. Snack on three different types of jamón, Manchego and anchovies alongside glasses of pétillant-naturel from Nuria Renom or bottles of vino from the Canary Islands. In the CBD, Shell House has nabbed another talent, with Sixpenny’s Aaron Ward set to step into the head chef role in the sprawling venue’s Dining Room, working alongside culinary director Joel Bickford (ex-Aria). Nearby, pop-up bar and restaurant About Time is hoping to bring the casual frivolity of the backyard barbecue to the more serious end of town. Run by a team of seven owners – who have worked across The Baxter Inn, The Gidley and The Roosevelt – the pop-up…

Yuzu’s short and limited season in Australia means it is hard to come by, so this limited-release olive oil is a boon for fans of the Japanese citrus. Mount Zero has collaborated with specialty citrus growers, Mountain Yuzu, based in north-east Victoria, for this special bottle, which sees whole yuzu fruit and olives cold-pressed together resulting in a zingy and freshly flavoured oil. Drizzle over fresh pasta, raw fish, salads, citrus desserts or any dish in need of an Italian-meets-Japanese kick. $25.90 mountzeroolives.com…

Provence is France’s oldest wine region and these days produces 91 per cent rosé wines, totalling 166 million bottles last year. As we enter the warmer months in Australia, Provence’s 2020 vintage wines are hitting shelves, which saw a dry and mild winter followed by good conditions for harvesting. This has resulted in bottles that typify the region – a light and bright pink tone, with a dry, aromatic palate. Expect hints of freshly cut flowers, melon, peach, red fruits, tropical fruits and marshmallows, lifted by a tangy freshness and an acidic backbone. vinsdeprovence.com/en Combating household waste is one of the most powerful things individuals can do to take climate action. OzHarvest’s new Use It Up Tape is a simple tool to help identify food that should be used up…

For me, the best part of this recent Sydney lockdown has been connecting with trailblazer and local community hero, Rosanna Barbero. I have been volunteering with the inspirational Addison Road Community Organisation during this time and have been so moved by the tireless efforts and compassionate work that the team offers, day-in-day-out. It is an absolute privilege to be a part of this grassroots community that makes such an effort to truly understand the specific needs of each of this city’s multicultural communities. Rosanna Barbero describes herself as a realistic optimist. The chief executive of Sydney’s Addison Road Community Organisation has been working in community development for nearly 30 years, and believes each of us has a vital part to play in building a just world to live in. “I’m…

In India, you will find these small, sticky spheres on show at weddings, birthdays and festivals, where they’re cooked and displayed en masse in large, round pans. They’re made from a milky, deep-fried dough, which is bathed in sugar syrup perfumed with cardamom, saffron and rose water. Originally a medieval Iranian creation, these celebratory sweets are now a much-loved mithai, or dessert, in India, particularly around the vibrant festival of Diwali, which is celebrated over five days in November by Hindus, Jains and Sikhs. The colour of the gulab jamun is usually a rich amber hue, but can turn almost black from caramelisation, depending on the style in which they’re made. Topped with crunchy nuts and sometimes served with ice-cream or creamy kulfi, these doughnut-like treats will have you finding…

SLIDE & HIDE® OVEN DOOR Fully retractable, this safe, stylish and unique feature ensures easy access to your food. The Slide&Hide® door lets you monitor your cooking, allows convenient lifting and provides more room to move around smaller kitchens. The revolutionary handle is easy on the wrist, so you can use it year after year, without strain. FULL STEAM AND VARIO STEAM FullSteam combines all the heating modes of a full-featured oven with those of a steam cooker, providing a quick and clean option for vegetables, fish, risottos, dumplings and puddings. VarioSteam, on the other hand, adds bursts of steam to the normal hot-air cooking process, for food that needs to be moist inside and crispy outside – think bread and meat. MULTI POINT MEAT PROBE Overcooked and undercooked meals…

PETER GILMORE Executive chef, Bennelong and Quay, Sydney I am beyond thankful that we were able to reopen the restaurants and get back to work between the two major NSW lockdowns. It has been a tough year for all and I am so glad that we were at home in Australia when we had to face a global pandemic – I feel that overall we have, and will continue to, get through this as best we can as a community by coming together. For all of its hardships, I am thankful 2021 allowed me to try my hand at ceramics, which has long been of great interest to me, having worked closely with my friend Paul Davis on a number of bespoke ceramics for Quay and Bennelong over the years.…

Humble. Quietly confident. Fiercely independent. These are the words that surfaced time and time again when we asked chefs to describe Daniel Puskas, chef and owner of Sydney’s Sixpenny and the recipient of this year’s peer-voted Chef of the Year award. Puskas, who has been working in the industry for more than 20 years and perfecting his craft at the lauded inner-west fine-diner for nearly 10, is not one to steal the limelight. Instead, he is the first to admit that it takes a village to run a restaurant – or in the time of coronavirus, a bakery. It’s this modest disposition, combined with sheer talent and determination, that truly sets Puskas apart. “Dan is a talented young chef who knows what he wants and really strives to push the…

When the going gets tough, Sharon Romeo gets going. The co-owner of South Australia’s Fino Seppeltsfield and Fino Vino is a whirlwind of energy at the best of times. But the past 18 months have only dialled up that legendary vip and vim, as Romeo has worked the floor to keep her busy winery restaurant humming at the same time as trying to bed-in a new CBD venue. Fino Seppeltsfield is both well established and well loved. But the city iteration, Fino Vino, opened just before Christmas in 2019 – the holiday season, when things are typically a little quiet in the city. Festival season kicked off in February, a period when everyone is out, but mostly at Adelaide Fringe venues. These are expected lulls. Just when things should have…

Ask Brigitte Hafner to describe the food she cooks at her Mornington Peninsula restaurant – and our Restaurant of the Year – Tedesca Osteria and the answer is something like the food: simple and complex at the same time. “It’s all about simplicity – cooking with fire, cooking in the moment as a response to all the things that are coming out of the garden – and then turning that into delicious food that spills out onto the table that everyone can share,” she says. “But while it is simple, it isn’t that easy to get it right; you need to pay attention to both how you’re cooking and the ingredients you’re cooking with.” At Tedesca, it’s all about the ingredients, but not all of us have access to large,…

SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A MEZE //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 40 MINS (PLUS PICKLING, COOLING) “This smooth, soft, earthy puddle is complemented by sharp, sour pickles, salty feta and the aniseed flavours of dill,” says Hafner. “You can also use wild fennel fronds, which grow along the sides of creeks and roads.” 250 gm yellow split peas1 pinch of dried Greek oregano (see note)1 garlic clove, halved lengthways120 ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzlingJuice of 2 lemons, or to taste10 gm feta, drained, crumbled Dill, to serve Sourdough, to serve PICKLED SHALLOTS 100 ml white wine vinegar90 gm caster sugar2 whole black peppercorns1 fresh thyme sprig2 large golden shallots, thinly sliced 1 To make pickled shallots, combine vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, thyme and 30ml water in a…

SERVES 6-8 AS PART OF A MEZE //PREP TIME 30 MINS //COOK 1 HR (PLUS RESTING, COOLING) “Our friend Mary Loucas taught us this traditional Cypriot dish. It does require some time and patience, however, the pastry is divine and worth the effort,” says Hafner. 200 gm plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting170 ml extra-virgin olive oil120 ml warm water50 gm unsalted butter FILLING 100 gm pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped6 spring onions, thinly sliced2 cups (firmly packed) coriander leaves (about 2 bunches), coarsely chopped 1 To make dough, place flour, 5gm sea salt flakes and 45ml olive oil in a food processor and process until sandy in texture. With motor running, gradually pour in 90ml warm water. The dough should form a ball. If not, add a little…

SERVES 6-8 //PREP TIME 30 MINS //COOK 10 MINS Jumbo king prawns are perfect for summer celebrations and require little in the way of embellishment. 250 gm lightly salted butter, at room temperature, chopped5 garlic cloves, crushed2 tbsp finely chopped preserved lemon1 tbsp each finely chopped flat-leaf parsley and dill2 tsp smoked paprikaFinely grated rind of 1 lemon20 extra-large green king prawns, peeled, deveined, heads intact Finger lime pearls and parsley, to serve 1 To make butter, place butter in the bowl of an electric stand mixer and whisk on high speed until pale and fluffy (3-4 minutes). Reduce speed to low, add garlic, preserved lemon, herbs, paprika and zest and mix until just combined and season to taste. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use. 2 Preheat…

SERVES 6-8 //PREP TIME 20 MINS //COOK 20 MINS Sweet Australian scallops pair perfectly with this vibrant Champagne and pea sauce, topped with nuggets of crisp chorizo for saltiness and texture. 24 Queensland scallops in the half shell, (see note) cleaned, roe removed60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling2 cured chorizo, finely chopped Micro chervil, to serve CHAMPAGNE AND PEA SAUCE 60 gm butter, chopped2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil3 golden shallots, thinly sliced2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced125 ml (½ cup) Champagne180 gm frozen peas, defrosted20 gm baby spinach 1 For Champagne and pea sauce, heat 30gm butter and oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallots and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally until softened (4-5 minutes). Deglaze pan with Champagne and simmer until reduced…

It all started with a vegetable box. Before this year, Flamingo Estate was just my home. I owned a creative agency and an art bookstore in Highland Park, Los Angeles, which suffered tremendous loss when the pandemic hit. And we weren’t the only ones. One morning, during the first week of the lockdown, Jeff, our horticulturist, told me about a farmer who was losing business because hotels and restaurants weren’t operating. Produce was rotting on the ground. She needed help, so we decided to sell her vegetables in our car park every Friday. We didn’t know it at the time, but this was the birth of a new business. The first farmer was joined by a second. And then a third and then a tenth. We met flower farmers, citrus…

SERVES 8 Pictured p105 1 cup milk½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped⅓ cup honey5 egg yolks1 tsp salt flakes1 cup heavy cream 1 Place milk, vanilla bean and seeds and honey in a medium saucepan over medium heat to warm. Stir to dissolve honey then remove from heat. 2 In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks for 3 minutes or until pale and fluffy. Slowly pour warm milk mixture over egg yolks while whisking continuously. Pour mixture back into the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until custard coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and discard vanilla bean. Add salt and stir to dissolve. Transfer custard to a bowl, cover tightly and refrigerate for 4 hours or until chilled. 3 When ready to churn the ice-cream, add…

MAKES ONE 25CM FRITTATA 3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling1 bunch medium asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2.5cm pieces10 eggs½ cup crème fraîche¼ cup chopped chives3 tbsp chopped mint leaves1 cup shelled broad beans170 gm goat’s cheese2 cups edible flowers1 cup chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, basil, chives, mint, tarragon and chervil 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. Heat olive oil in a cast-iron frying pan over medium heat. Add asparagus and cook for 2-3 minutes or until beginning to soften. 2 Meanwhile, place eggs, crème fraîche, chives and mint in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper; whisk to combine. 3 Add broad beans to the frying pan with asparagus and cook for 1 minute to warm through. Add egg mixture and immediately turn off heat.…

Restaurant Botanic AUSTRALIAN Plane Tree Dr, Adelaide (08) 8223 3526 restaurantbotanic.com.au Chef Justin James Price guide $$$$ Bookings Recommended Wheelchair access Yes Clam jam? Well, yes please. It’s like a sweet fermented chilli paste. But it’s complicated. Complex. It comes with a duck fat scone. The Country Women’s Association would be shocked, but it’s perfectly salty and crunchy and sits next to a plump lemon-myrtle marron, which in turn sits next to a marron shell stuffed with native herbs grown in Adelaide’s tranquil Botanic Gardens. The lake outside ripples, ducks waddle, and on request a ridiculously large truffle is showcased, not long after its shavings have been delivered. The restaurant here has always been perfectly situated, and has now been injected with wild new life. A new fitout: sage and…

Saint Peter SEAFOOD 362 Oxford St, Paddington (02) 8937 2539 saintpeter.com.au Chef Josh Niland Price guide $$$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access No Every seasoned diner knows the best seat in the house is at the counter. So, it was perhaps logical for Josh Niland to reconfigure his petite Paddington restaurant to feature a single, marble counter stretching the length of the room. The fact it meant halving the number of diners in a sitting made it a little more radical. But fortune favours the bold and, a year on, Saint Peter is setting the bar for how diners want to eat in 2021 and beyond. As an experience, it’s intimate and informative; engaging and entertaining. Most importantly, it’s delicious. You don’t need to particularly like seafood to enjoy Niland’s cooking,…

Welcome to the 2022 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, celebrating the most exciting and exceptional dining experiences to be found across Australia in the year ahead. From new openings to established favourites, each of the restaurants featured in this guide can be relied upon to deliver both innovation and excellence. Together, they represent the diversity of fine-dining in Australia, presenting either something wholly original, or the very best of its kind. Service, atmosphere and ambience are critical. This year’s guide returns with a few changes. Instead of a national list, we have compiled separate lists for each state. Smaller states and territories, such as Tasmania, have shorter lists, while larger states, such as Victoria and New South Wales, have longer lists. In each, our editors have singled out an individual state…

Sydney is welcoming a slew of slick new hotels, ready to host tourists in the Emerald City. One of the most anticipated is The Ace Hotel – the first in the southern hemisphere. Located in the historic Tyne House in Surry Hills, the 264-room design focused hotel will showcase distinctive modernist interiors by Flack Studio. In the CBD, Kimpton Sydney (the first property for the brand in Australia) has enlisted Luke Mangan to oversee the dining offerings in the luxury hotel, located within Pitt Street’s heritage-listed former Water Board headquarters. The main restaurant is set to be Luke’s Kitchen, alongside a 1930s-inspired cocktail bar, an intimate wine bar and a poolside rooftop bar, plus a casual café.…

Former lawyer turned parfumier and candle-maker Craig Andrade (aka The Raconteur) understands the power of smell, working to create candles that trigger emotions and memories of places and experiences. Now, he’s helping light up Paddington, with his first immersive boutique called The Embassy. The multi-purpose space on William Street not only houses his native botanical-centred candles and teas, but also showcases carefully sourced Australian-designed furniture, natural beauty products by Megan Larsen and has its own fragrance garden out the back. Andrade has also worked with local chefs to create custom candles inspired by their restaurants. Take home a scent of Quay, Firedoor or Martin Boetz’s the Cooks Shed. “Taste is 80 per cent smell – when you eat, so much of what you’re experiencing is scent and aroma,” says Andrade.…

How did you become a chef? I started out in Adelaide in a café. Soon after, I answered a Twitter advertisement for a job at Cumulus and moved to Melbourne, where I ended up working at the Builders Arms Hotel under Josh Murphy. A couple of years ago I moved to London and worked at Leroy – a natural wine bar over there; and also The Laughing Heart, under some pretty great chefs. When Covid happened I moved back home to Adelaide. When I came back, I didn’t really see that much happening that I was super interested in. I took a job at Leigh Street Wine Room – which was the most similar to my experience. Then I heard that a couple of people were going to open up this…

We still cook in the same kitchen at Highclere, which has been used for hundreds of years. It’s the same space but very differently adapted. There’s still a patisserie with a cold marble top and it’s the best place for making pastry. There are two game larders – we’ve turned one into a walk-in freezer and the other into a walk-in fridge. There was a smoking house just above the stove. They would put hay in there and smoke fish and meat. It was really well set up to feed a large household. There were 100 gardeners in 1908. The cook would have gone up to the kitchen garden and would have given them a list of what she wanted for the day. In a larger house like this, you…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Grilled squid and zucchini spaghetti SERVES 4 400 gm spaghetti2 medium zucchini, thinly sliced (we used yellow and green)500 gm cleaned squid tubes, scored and cut into 3cm pieces80 ml (⅓ cup) extra-virgin olive oil35 gm (¼ cup) pistachios, finely chopped1 long red chilli, seeded, finely chopped1 tbsp salted baby capers, rinsed1 garlic clove, finely chopped¼ cup loosely packed tarragon leaves, finely chopped1 bunch chives, finely chopped60 gm (2 cups) baby rocket leaves, finely choppedLemon wedges, to serve 1 Cook spaghetti in a saucepan of salted boiling water until al dente (6-8 minutes). Drain, reserving 250ml cooking water. 2 Meanwhile, heat a lightly greased chargrill pan over high heat. Season zucchini and grill, turning, until tender and lightly charred (2 minutes). Set aside. 3 Season…

PRESENTS NEW SLEEK GRAPHITE Your favourite cooking companions have had a makeover. The stainless steel strips and handles in graphite are as delightful to look at as they are to the touch, and perfect for any contemporary kitchen. HN.COM.AU/NEFF ONLINE | MOBILE | IN STORE…

POWER OF FLEXIBILITY The NEFF vented cooktop allows you to design your kitchen your way. Move your pots and pans anywhere within the FlexInduction zone and their size and shape will be automatically detected so that heat is applied to their exact location. DOWNDRAFT EXTRACTOR At the centre of the cooktop is a ventilation duct that gets rid of steam and smells before they can spread around the kitchen. This sensor-controlled system automatically adjusts the ventilation power level based on what you’re up to in the kitchen. TWIST PAD FIRE®…

Bubbles. Fizz. ‘Champers’. No matter what you call it, sparkling wine can’t help but evoke a sense of excitement in people as they hear the gentle hiss of a bottle being opened. With a resurgence of the traditional ways of making sparkling, there’s never been a more exciting time to enter into the world of fizz, from classic French styles to lively left-of-centre drops. SPARKLING WINE 1 2006 Arras ‘E.J. Carr’ Late Disgorged, Tasmania, $200 This is the ninth consecutive release of this extraordinary wine, named after the “Godfather” of sparkling wine in Australia, Ed Carr. It seems almost impossible that a 15-year-old sparkling wine could be fresh and vibrant, but that is the magic of this Tasmanian bottle from what is easily Australia’s best house of sparkling. houseofarras.com.au 2…

Andrew McConnell’s newest restaurant is a departure of sorts. The other diners in his Trader House group (Cumulus Inc, Cutler & Co, Marion, Supernormal etc) have featured a deliberate edginess in both design and food that has led in-the-know diners to perfectly understand the meaning of “an Andrew McConnell restaurant”. With Gimlet he’s flipped the narrative and turned to the familiar. It could well be a case of function following form. A sensational renovation has made the gorgeous corner space in the 1920s-era Cavendish House building in Melbourne’s CBD seem ready-made for a take on the big city restaurant in the mode of The Wolseley or Balthazar. Taking those places as reference rather than model, Gimlet’s central bar, tiered seating, open kitchen, horseshoe booths and uniformed waiters slinging cocktails, caviar,…

Balmy tropical breezes, appetising wafts of wood-smoke, and restful green-on green views into a lush jungle of exotic, edible plants. The best destination dining is nothing if not transportive – and taking a seat for the intimate, laid-back chef’s table at Oaks Kitchen and Garden will lift you as far from the high-street experience as it’s possible to be raised (that’s if you can still move when you’re feeling this de-stressed). But first, you have to get here. You’ll find Oaks Kitchen and Garden in the Far North Queensland coastal hamlet of Oak Beach. It’s a blink- and you’ll-miss-it stopover on the sweeping Great Barrier Reef Drive, 15 minutes drive from the marina town of Port Douglas. Bookended by Coral Sea and Wet Tropics Rainforest, it’s the kind of idyll…

MAKES 1 //PREP TIME 10 MINS //COOK 16 MINS (PLUS COOLING, STEEPING) “Our star behind the bar is Joseph Demoz – this is his twist on a classic spritz,” says Brigitte Hafner. 45 ml gin75 ml sparkling white wine¼ tsp rosewater, or to taste Large ice cubes, to serve Cold soda water, to serve ROSEMARY SHRUB 110 gm caster sugar½ bunch rosemary, plus extra to serve125 ml (½ cup) white wine vinegar 1 To make rosemary shrub, combine sugar and 100ml water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar dissolves (1-2 minutes); set aside to cool completely. Heat a large frying pan over medium-low heat, add rosemary and roast in pan, turning frequently, until fragrant (1 minute). Transfer rosemary to a medium saucepan with sugar syrup and…

SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A MEZE //PREP TIME 10 MINS //COOK 20 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING) “Eggplant is like a sponge so when you add the salt, vinegar and oil, let it sit for about half an hour then taste it again,” says Hafner. “This dish can be dull if you don’t push the acid and salt.” 3 eggplant (about 320gm each)50 gm (½ cup) walnuts, plus extra to serve3 garlic cloves, crushed2 tbsp coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus extra leaves to serve2½ tbsp red wine vinegar, or to taste125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil or to taste, plus extra for drizzling Sourdough, to serve 1 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue or char-grill pan to high. Cook eggplant, turning frequently, until completely charred on the outside (20 minutes).…

MAKES 4 //PREP TIME 15 MINS //COOK 10 MINS (PLUS SETTING, COOLING) “We like using a combination of yoghurt, buttermilk and crème fraîche – it adds just the right amount of sour and complexity to the sweetened cream,” says Hafner. 1½ titanium-strength gelatine leaves150 ml pouring cream75 gm caster sugar Peel of half a lemon1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped125 gm crème fraîche125 gm natural unsweetened yoghurt125 gm buttermilk HAZELNUT PRALINE 50 gm hazelnuts100 gm caster sugar POACHED CHERRIES 500 gm caster sugar1 cinnamon quill2 star anise300 gm cherries, pitted (see note) 1 Soak gelatine in cold water until softened (5 minutes). Remove from water and squeeze excess water from gelatine. 2 Meanwhile, combine cream, sugar and lemon peel with vanilla bean and seeds in a small saucepan over medium…

SERVES 6-8 //PREP TIME 25 MINS Pair buttery brioche sliders or rolls with sweet lobster meat for the ultimate party favour. Pictured p103 8 small brioche rolls or buns, split1 tsp each white and black sesame seeds, toasted4 cooked lobster tails (200gm each), meat removed, thinly sliced (see note)2 tbsp lemon-infused extra-virgin olive oil250 gm baby cucumbers, shaved lengthways CELERIAC REMOULADE 1½ tbsp Dijon mustard2 garlic cloves, finely grated2 tsp each finely chopped cornichons and baby capers¼ cup each tarragon and flat-leaf parsley leaves, finely chopped170 gm Kewpie mayonnaise600 gm celeriac, cut into julienne2 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste Finely grated zest of 1 lemonPinch of cayenne pepper 1 For remoulade, combine mustard, garlic, cornichons, capers, herbs and mayonnaise in a bowl. Add celeriac, lemon juice and zest, and…

SERVES 4 4 cups vegetable stock12 baby artichokes4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil2 golden shallots, finely diced1 cup carnaroli or Arborio rice½ cup dry white wine4 tbsp unsalted butter, diced1 cup finely grated parmesan, plus extra for serving 1 Warm vegetable stock in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. 2 Remove the tough outer leaves of the artichokes to reveal the tender light green parts. Using a sharp knife, trim the top third of the artichoke. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the tough outer layers around the base and stem. Slice into 0.5cm thick slices. 3 Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a separate medium saucepan over medium heat. Add artichokes and sauté for 5-6 minutes or until tender. 4 Heat remaining oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add…

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP ½ tbsp ghee or coconut oil2 cups assorted mushrooms, such as oyster, lion’s mane, shiitake, portobello, coarsely chopped1 small golden shallot, sliced4 sprigs thyme, stems removed½ tbsp ground fennel½ tbsp ground turmeric¼ tbsp licorice root, ground (see note)1½ tbsp coriander leaves2 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp coconut aminos (see note)3 tbsp green olive brine liquid½ cup toasted walnutsCrusty bread and baby radishes, to serve 1 Heat ghee in a large frying pan over medium heat. Cook mushrooms and shallot until slightly caramelised. 2 Add thyme, fennel, turmeric and licorice root and cook for an additional minute. 3 Transfer cooked mushroom mixture to a food processor, add remaining ingredients and pulse until a textured purée. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve with crusty bread and baby radishes. Note Licorice…

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Millbrook AUSTRALIAN Old Chestnut Lane, Jarrahdale (08) 9525 5796 millbrook.wine Chefs Guy Jeffreys & Jamie Hembrow Price guide $$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes Eating your greens is a breeze at this airy cellar door restaurant in the Perth Hills. While the kitchen garden isn’t as conspicuous as the vines that greet guests on the drive in, it’s front and centre on a menu where deftly handled proteins – juicy steamed snapper, say, or thickly sliced porchetta – play second fiddle to estate-grown produce. So “beetroot salad, half heritage chicken, calamansi marmalade” features juicy grilled bird riding shotgun to the sweetest white beets; billowing leaves of Portuguese cabbage become a de facto tortilla for spiced lamb; and bitter citrus and baby mustards sharpen deep-fried duck hearts in a cool duck…

Pilot AUSTRALIAN Shop 5/6, 1 Wakefield Gardens, Ainslie (02) 6257 4334 pilotrestaurant.com Chef Malcolm Hanslow Price guide $$$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes The challenges of the past 18 months have no doubt tested Pilot, which was just over a year old when Covid first rained chaos down upon us all. But where others find themselves navigating the new landscape unsteadily, Pilot is soaring; confident, playful and polished. A move to a blind, 10-course dégustation menu has only sharpened the focus of chef Malcolm Hanslow and his team, as they prepare each Goldilocks-sized portion with precision. The kitchen and floor staff work in harmony to deliver a perfectly paced experience that never feels rushed – but will have you promptly out the door in two hours flat, even with relaxed…

Osteria ITALIAN 1175 Morning ton-Flinders Rd, Red Hill tedesca.com.au Chef Brigitte Hafner Price guide $$$$ Bookings Essential Wheelchair access Yes It starts at the front door, a hand-tooled thing of beauty that signals both attention to detail and a penchant for the singular and hand-crafted. It’s evident inside too, particularly with the kitchen being in the dining room, with chef-owner Brigitte Hafner rolling pasta on the blackened timber bench against a backdrop of the brick hearth’s flames licking at ducks, or pork, or vegetables. It has a dinner at a friend’s place vibe, underlined by the laidback service and the single seating policy, so lunch stretches to leisurely hours that include a visit to the wine cellar or a stroll around the gardens. The menu’s loose script is antipasto, pasta,…

Levantine Hill is proud to be the presenting sponsor of this year’s Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards. Ours is a story of what becomes possible when your ambition is to make truly world class wines. The type of wines to share with beautiful food when we want to celebrate special moments in our lives with loved ones, and the styles we want to share with anyone who is bold enough to embrace that perfection has no end point. We would like to congratulate all the winners in this year’s awards, in what has been a difficult time for the hospitality industry, and we look forward to celebrating your continued success.…