Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

Broome, Western Australia Raw pearl meat. The Chinese New Year fish salad, yee sang, made with saltbush. Live music from Yawuru man and Broome legend, Steve Pigram. Shinju Matsuri’s annual sunset long table dinner had it all, including a typically cinematic Cable Beach sunset to kick off this celebration of Broome’s many cultures. Max Veenhuyzen, WA state editor Fratelli Paradiso, Sydney Fratelli’s assortment of doughy, sugar-dusted domes filled with silky cream make for a luxurious Sunday morning pit-stop. I opted for the pistachio, which I tore up bit by bit and dunked in hot coffee. 12-16 Challis Ave, Potts Point, NSW. Georgie Meredith, writer and editorial coordinator Baba’s Place, Sydney The samk-et-harra, aka “Lebo Filet-O-Fish”, from Baba’s Place is a masterclass in texture: pink ling coated in crisp crumbs, plus…

HERBIE’S SPICES Green peppercorns Green peppercorns are black peppercorns that have been picked early before they change colour. While usually found preserved in brine, they can also be freeze-dried to retain a fuller, more rounded flavour, just like these fragrant little spheres from Herbie’s. They’re an ideal companion for red meat – simply grind and rub over your favourite steak before cooking. $7.15 for 15gm, herbies.com.au SPICE & CO. Pink peppercorns Pink peppercorns are the fully ripened berries of the peppertree, giving them an unmistakable fruity essence. Much milder than their black or green counterparts, they bring sweet, floral notes that do well to complement light fish dishes – think fresh kingfish crudo or swordfish carpaccio. $3.30 for 10gm, harrisfarm.com.au GEWÜRZHAUS Australian black peppercorns This Melbourne-based spice trader dabbles in…

Flaunting one of the most hedonistic drives to a wine region, Orange has always been a food and drink lover’s paradise. You can stop to pick up award-winning apple pies in Bilpin, forage for native botanicals when you hit the ridge along Bells Line of Road and grab a few handcrafted spirits in Bathurst before you even make it to Orange’s doorstep. There’s a reason why it has Australia’s longest-running regional food and wine festival, which brings thousands of people to the area each year to experience this flavoursome place. While Orange is a relatively young wine region when it comes to vine age (the first commercial vines were planted in 1980), there is a sense of community, of bringing people and ideas together, prevalent among the wineries that makes…

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There is a widely told tale that steak tartare started out as a horsemeat dish, made by migrant Mongols who travelled across Europe from Central Asia in the 13th century. This claim, though, is murky at best. While the elegant yet polarising dish has no clear birthplace, and could even be linked to the ground raw beef dish of Ethiopia, known as kitfo, it began to appear on restaurant menus in France in the early 20th century, under the title ‘steak à l'Américaine’. Today, steak tartare has become synonymous with French bistros the world over, although comes in the form of other colourful variations across the globe, such as crudos in Chile, yukhoe in Korea, and råbiff in Sweden. No matter the meat, its vehicle should always be something salty…

VIC JUNG EUN CHAE, CHAE There’s nowhere to hide in a tiny six-seat diner that’s attracting increasingly noisy applause, but Jung Eun Chae’s one-woman-show apartment-restaurant has nothing to hide. In fact, there’s so much good stuff going on you wish more people could see it (an upcoming move to a farm in Cockatoo will not see capacity increase, we’re told). Chae, a calm and hospitable presence, crafts amazing Korean dishes, many of them centred on fermentation and house-made seasonings. It’s finely hewn, exquisite stuff. Chae, as much artisan as chef, has created something truly original. In short: Pioneering flair. QLD NATHAN DUNNELL, ELSKA The only fine dining listed on Nathan Dunnell’s resumé is a stint at Brisbane’s now defunct Stokehouse Q. But this hasn’t impacted creativity or technicality at Elska.…

Fish is the main source of protein for almost 1 billion people globally, yet more than 30 per cent of commercial fisheries are operating at unsustainable levels. It is an increasingly pressing problem, without easy solutions. But what’s key is challenging the system by shifting the focus towards valuing diverse species and all parts of their edible components. My priority is to maximise the yield from one single fish, which I firmly believe should not be seen as something we only take the fillets from. There is a minimum of 90 per cent delicious potential in each and every fish in good condition, a number that represents nearly double the commonly accepted yield. What does this mean? Well, ultimately, for every fish caught we can generate the yield of two.…

Breakfast You’ll be spoilt for choice, so if decision fatigue hits just head for Market & Meander at Hotel Indigo. This new-ish hotel is fully integrated with Adelaide Central Market and dips into its incredible seasonal offerings. Fuel up on Adelaide Hills mushrooms with truffle oil and thyme, or wattleseed waffles with poached fruit. Casual with a cool sprinkle of South Australian political lore. @marketandmeander Lunch A cracking, interesting, adventurous lunch in a casino? Yes, it’s possible. Actually, it’s proven. Madame Hanoi – part of the SkyCity complex and accessible via North Terrace – is one of Adelaide’s best Vietnamese restaurants. Offering authentic and sensationally balanced Vietnamese fare in an upmarket setting, Madame Hanoi doesn’t compromise on taste (or spice) to suit western palates. They simply nail it, every time.…

It might seem a little perverse to release the Restaurant Issue at a time when much of the industry remains closed and dining out is but a distant memory for many of us. It was certainly something we thought twice about. But after speaking to our friends in the industry, we decided to stay the course and celebrate the joy of dining out and those who make it magical. The industry may be down at the moment but it is certainly not out – and with the end of lockdown finally in sight, the industry is ready and waiting to throw open its doors once again. In this issue, you’ll find the finalists for our 2022 Restaurant Awards. Last year, we had to cancel the awards after lockdowns prevented us…

SYDNEY Milpa Collective (Carbon, Taqiza and Calita) will soon be busy opening three new venues across Sydney, each showcasing different parts of Mexico. Casa Mérida will bring Mayan cuisine from the Yucatán Peninsula to Kellett Street in Potts Point. Mayan dishes will include ceviche, cochinita pibil (slow-roasted pork) and infladitas (puffed tortillas filled with meat, vegetables and cheese), while top-shelf tequilas, Mexican spirits and rare mezcals will be on show, too. In the CBD, Santa Catarina takes its name from Oaxacan municipality Santa Catarina Minas, and will fittingly draw upon its cuisine; while Londres 126 will open in Sydney’s new Quay Quarter, drawing on the snacks (or botanas) peddled in Mexico City. Nearby, Circular Quay’s Aria has welcomed new head chef Thomas Gorringe. Following a stint at Pier One’s The…

Spring is upon us in Australia and New Zealand. Birds are singing and tending their nests, flowers are abuzz with bees, and seedlings are jumping out of the ground. Yet, in the veggie garden, something strange is happening. Crops we have enjoyed through winter, such as leeks, brassicas and root vegetables, bolt to seed as the days lengthen. Although the days can be warm, the soil is still quite cool, so our summer crops, such as beans, zucchini and tomatoes, have not yet taken off. Paradoxically, right when nature is at her most luxuriant, there is suddenly very little to eat in the vegetable garden. We call this period the “hungry gap”. This natural lean time is not all bad, however. There are some wonderful seasonal treats we can plant…

The Sidecar is named after exactly that, a motorcycle sidecar. As to why? That fact is unclear, much like the cloudy orange liquid of the drink itself. It’s been around since the 1920s, appearing on bar menus across London and Paris shortly after World War I. Fuelled by citrus and brandy, the Sidecar is an underrated, old-world cocktail that’s sweetened with a sugar rim – a rewarding companion for the drink’s luxurious and tart flavours. Cognac and triple sec are the usual spirits of choice, but you can also mix it up with unique, citrus-infused drops. Classic Sidecar Add 30ml brandy, 30ml orange liqueur, 30ml lemon juice and ice to a cocktail shaker. Shake well. Rim a glass with lemon juice then dip in sugar. Strain drink into the glass…

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Named after the Dauphiné region of France, gratin dauphinois is a classic dish that defies eras but was especially popular in the ’70s. For a modern spin, we’ve added crisp, smoky bacon, parmesan and golden sourdough crumbs to dial up the savoury factor. This recipe serves eight as a side and makes for the perfect family meal when paired with roast chicken or pork and a fresh leafy salad. Set aside 20 minutes for preparation, plus 1 hour and 10 minutes for cooking. Step by step 1 Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease a 30cm diameter (3.25-litre capacity) round ovenproof dish with butter. 2 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 chopped rashers rindless smoked bacon and cook, stirring, until crisp (4-5 minutes). Add…

“I really love the small wall tiles in the bathrooms. They’re all slightly concave and are different in each bathroom. They exemplify the design consideration when we built Lee Ho Fook. It’s an odd detail but it’s the small things that bring joy.”– Victor Liong, Lee Ho Fook “Our timber shelves, because they are filled with our fave projects. They rotate between our fish prints, seasonal misos, vinegars, garum and pickles, and also just random things that make us happy. Ironically, they were never planned for this, and were originally designed to just store plates.”– Ben Devlin, Pipit “The painting Emerald Drift by Tim Storrier, which hangs at the western end of Catalina’s dining room. My late husband Michael commissioned it from his great friend Tim Storrier, referencing a photograph…

Beef tataki with blood orange and puffed wild rice SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS COOLING, RESTING) Tart blood oranges give this traditional Japanese dish a lively, modern twist. Vegetable oil, for deep-frying2 tbsp wild rice2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling800 gm wagyu beef fillet, sinew removed, at room temperature1 tsp finely grated fresh wasabi or horseradish (optional)Baby lemon balm, to serve PICKLE 1 garlic clove, crushed1 tbsp white wine vinegar2 tbsp caster sugar2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil2 large golden shallots, thinly sliced into rings2 blood oranges, skin removed, segmented, juice reserved3 baby watermelon radishes, thinly shaved 1 Preheat a lightly greased barbecue plate or heavy-based frying pan to high heat. Drizzle beef all over with oil and season to taste.…

The Mornington Peninsula has been a magnet for food lovers for a long time. Ancient shell middens around Point Nepean attest to the longstanding fondness the local First Nations people, the Boon wurrung, had for the Peninsula’s shellfish. And while it was the abundant seas that originally attracted Europeans to this stretch of land 70km south of Melbourne, it was the fertile soil and diverse microclimates that kept them there. For a slice of land just 723km2, the Peninsula grows, produces and sells an astonishing variety of food and booze. Best known as one of Victoria’s premier wine regions, it’s also home to distilleries, cideries and breweries, and produces everything from brilliant potatoes (best sampled in the form of thrice-cooked chips at the Hawkes Farm Food Truck), cherries and truffles…

The secret is out: while everyone knows primer is an essential when you want your base to last, it’s also crucial to no-makeup-makeup, effortless summer skin. The best formulas serve the same purpose as your favourite IG filter, helping blur imperfections and add ring-light radiance. And as the step that bridges your skincare and makeup routine, it’s perhaps fitting that these days primers offer complexion-boosting benefits too. For those who want to look lit-from-within (that would be everyone, everywhere), primers now have ingredients that soothe and nourish skin, delivering a genuine glow that you might cover with makeup… or not. Dr Barbara Sturm Glow Drops, $206 (1), has hyaluronic acid to moisturise, as well as vitamin B5 to keep skin calm. You can add base, or simply touch-up with concealer…

Ruinart’s new look Champagne house Ruinart’s famed Blanc de Blancs is sporting a sustainable new look, ditching individual gift boxes in favour of a lightweight ‘second skin’ case that is fully recyclable and has a reduced carbon footprint. ruinart.com Merivale tunes The joy of dining out is about more than just good food, which is why we love Merivale’s paired playlists that accompany their takeaway orders and help transport you out of your kitchen. merivale.com.au East 33 oysters Help curb those restaurant cravings and treat yourself to a little luxury at home with a fresh delivery of East 33’s premium Sydney rock oysters. BYO Champagne and mignonette. Available across NSW, Vic and Qld. e33.sydney CopperTree Farms butter Top chefs Neil Perry, Corey Costelloe and Mark Best have teamed up with…

Your restaurant, Soi 38, recently moved into a new space. What’s it like? We had seven to eight months to design it, get the equipment and test the flow of the kitchen. Placing all the equipment is like playing with toys – it’s the dream for a chef to be able to lay out their kitchen. You were a tour guide in Thailand for 12 years – tell us about that. I became a tour guide not long after I finished my degree in environmental science in Thailand. As a trekking guide we explored the mountains, stayed in homestays and met different tribes. We also carried our own food and exchanged with farmers in the villages and cooked with them. I became interested in history, cultural learning and education after…

My first memory of learning to cook was with my mum. I can remember her making tomato sauce and always reducing it. It would take her hours to make a simple sauce. It was always sweet and flavoursome and tangy. I never wanted to go on Celebrity MasterChef; I said, “No way.” Then they called again and they said, “You’re going to have so much fun… As long as you can read the recipe, you’ll be fine.” I thought, “Okay, I’ll do it. I’ll throw myself right outside my comfort zone, I’ll throw myself right into reality television, which I thought never in my life I would ever do. What have I got to lose?” When I was in Melbourne shooting I went to Marion on Gertrude Street, and it…

I feel incredibly fortunate to call Lille Madden, proud Arrernte, Bundjalung and Kalkadoon woman from Gadigal country, a dear friend and close collaborator. Lille is one of several key young mentors in my life who continue to educate me and draw my attention to the most pressing local and global issues. I am so inspired by her powerful climate activism and skilful way of communicating clearly, compassionately and respectfully. Lille Madden is a storyteller, first and foremost. She brings a warmth to her words when she speaks, weaving her sentences together with clarity and confidence. While it may not seem like an immediate link, storytelling has been a pillar for Madden to lean on throughout her flourishing activist career. Madden is a proud Arrernte, Bundjalung and Kalkadoon woman from Gadigal…

Those familiar with chef Clinton McIver’s Armadale diner Amaru won’t be shocked the bar snacks at Auterra, his new wine bar just up the road, are in a different stratosphere to cheese and charcuterie. McIver’s knack for precise, complex flavour bombs is focused on finger food at Auterra and the strike ratio is impressive, sometimes nudging spectacular. If you come hungry, the snack list can be retrofitted as a fuss-free, cutlery-free degustation. Word of advice? Come hungry. It’s tricky to play favourites (another reason to eat the lot), but the Port Arlington mussel, steamed in its shell, flavoured with XO oil and a yeasty-savoury rye bread mayonnaise and bundled in a lacto-fermented radicchio leaf will have your tastebuds high-fiving each other as the salty, sweet, oceanic, bitter, earthy wave washes…

Start with the smallest details. Puffed salmon skin, salty and crisp, with a pop of caviar, smoothed with sour cream and elevated with the silk of gin-cured salmon. Then zoom out. Aurora is surprising. Everyone wants to do something new, but Aurora actually does, because it’s part of something bigger. The Light project – with Aurora on the ground floor – is a sprawling space that brings together hospitality, art, music, and the community. What “they” have done with this space is revolutionary. “They” are a team of people who’ve taken over a space in Adelaide’s CBD and made it a centre. There’s a cool bar with festoon lights outside, open for late drinks. There’s a space for live music, and this extraordinary restaurant where chef Brendan Wessels – fresh…

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VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Saffron dahi murg with kachumber SERVES 4 200 gm natural Greek-style yoghurt½ onion, coarsely chopped4 garlic cloves Finely grated rind of 1 lemon, plus lemon wedges to serve2 tsp each ground cumin and ground coriander¼ tsp saffron threads½ tsp smoked paprika, plus extra to serve8 chicken thigh cutlets (250gm each), bone in, skin on Olive oil, for drizzling Steamed basmati rice, pappadums and baby coriander leaves, to serveKACHUMBER250 gm baby heirloom tomatoes, halve3 medium Lebanese cucumbers, halved lengthwise, chopped1 red onion, choppedJuice of 1 lemon 1 Process yoghurt, onion, garlic, lemon rind and spices in a food processor to combine. Transfer to a large bowl, add chicken and massage to coat; cover and marinate at room temperature for 15 minutes, alternatively if time permits marinate…

NSW A’MARE, SYDNEY Brought to us by Italian power couple Alessandro and Anna Pavoni (Ormeggio at The Spit), a’Mare is the shining jewel in Crown Sydney’s dining portfolio. With uninterrupted views of Barangaroo’s shimmering bay and interiors inspired by lavish palazzos, there’s no better spot to sip sangiovese and swoon over squid-ink risotto. To diners’ delight, dinner also comes with a show – vibrant basil pesto is made tableside in a large Carrara marble mortar; while gelato is scooped and topped in front of your eyes. It’s a sleek experience that justifies the high price tag. In short: An elegant affair NSW HO JIAK TOWN HALL, SYDNEY Two words perfectly describe Ho Jiak’s new Town Hall location: funky and fresh. Funky, for the rich and wonderfully smoky flavours we’ve come…

SA SHARON ROMEO, FINO VINO + FINO SEPPELTSFIELD Sharon Romeo has long been a powerhouse in the South Australian dining scene – a buzzing, compact energy force that enthusiastically guides you through an incredible evening. This legendary vip and vim has seen her work the floor at many of the state’s best restaurants, and is the beating heart behind both Fino Seppeltsfield and its CBD sibling, Fino Vino, which opened in December 2019. Keeping the city eatery alive throughout 2020 saw Romeo dig deep and take on multiple roles, working her magic across both sites without ever missing a beat (or an order). In short: Firecracker. NSW CAM FAIRBAIRN, CAFE PACI If you’re not looking to make any more friends, don't go to Cafe Paci. Because after one encounter with…

Above all, my life’s work has been to convince as many people as possible that cooking a lovely meal without anxiety adds so much to the joy of living. I am in rebellion against those who tell me that every recipe has to be simple, that every dish has to be ready in 10 minutes, or that only dishes with just three of five ingredients should be attempted. Some memorable meals can be made in minutes, but there are many others that will simmer for hours in a low oven, or even need to marinate overnight. Complex flavours usually need time to yield the best result and these dishes are worth waiting for. I encourage those starting on their culinary journey to consider their priorities. If you value something, you…