Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

Aløft With so much exciting food on offer during Hobart’s Dark Mofo festival, it was impossible to avoid doubling up on meals throughout the day. Exhibit A: this crunchy-creamy treat of coconut, coffee, honeycomb and fig, which punctuated the end of our second dinner of the evening at Aløft. Pier one, Brooke St, Hobart, Tas. Karlie Verkerk, deputy editor Baduzzi Australia may have more Italian restaurants than New Zealand but I’ve yet to find one that can top Baduzzi’s crayfish polpette. Sweet, tender and perfectly seasoned, they are an icon of Auckland’s dining scene with good reason. Jellicoe St, North Wharf, Auckland Joanna Hunkin, editor The Henry Jones Art Hotel, Hobart, Tasmania With its rough-hewn sandstone walls and preserved tin ceilings, you can literally feel the past at this historic…

The June issue’s focus on Japanese cuisine got me thinking about one of my favourite vegetables, which is at its best through the cooler months: daikon. Daikon means “big root” in Japanese. That describes this vegetable perfectly, as it does indeed have a very big root, routinely up to 50 centimetres in length, and six centimetres in diameter. You might also know daikon by its Hindi name, “mooli”, or its Korean name, “mu”, as this vegetable is used across Asia. Daikon is a kind of giant radish. Radishes get a bad rap in Anglo culture, as the tiny, red radishes more common in western cultures can taste unpleasantly acrid if not grown well. They don’t withstand handling and transport well, and are typically seen looking dull and flaccid on supermarket…

2021 Good Time Wines ‘Party White’, $40 for six When the team behind Pinot Palooza creates a drinks brand, you know it’s going to be unique. The white in the series is made by Neil Prentice from Moondarra Wines using 100 per cent Gippsland ribolla grapes left for 30 days on their skins. Textural with just a hint of white florals – it’s made for good times. goodtimewines.com 2020 Fleet South Gippsland Chardonnay, $39 Winemakers Lisa and Justin Jenkins use chardonnay planted in the ’90s from two sites in South Gippsland to craft a genuinely superb white wine. Textural and mineral-driven with hints of Granny Smith apple and nashi pear. fleetwines.com.au 2020 Dirty Three Wines ‘All The Dirts’ Pinot Noir, $45 In comparison to Marcus Satchell’s single-vineyard pinots, All The…

For decades, Rigoni’s was a mainstay of the Adelaide lunch scene. The Italian restaurant would fill with suits, and the suits would fill with pasta and wine. Deals would be done over hefty steaks and heftier bottles of shiraz. Now, the elegant old Leigh Street building is home to Fugazzi Bar & Dining Room. The new owners made a noble pledge to bring back the long lunch. And they have – with fewer suits. It’s still a little blokey, but definitely not stuffy. Fugazzi is boisterous. It’s fun. The proven team of Max and Laura Sharrad, along with proprietor Simon Kardachi, have served up a long-anticipated experience that surpasses their other venture, Nido. A cheerful Laura steers us through the lush interior, and a chirpy sommelier deftly guides us through…

Anew home. A Nordic influence. Native ingredients. And all delivered in a 12-seater, dégustation-only format. If Elska were a circus act there would be a highwire involved. And possibly no safety net. The husband-and-wife owners of this Brisbane venue, Nathan and Danish expat Freja Dunnell don’t mind long odds. In December 2019 they closed their popular café, Freja’s. Their plan? Turn it into an ambitious fine diner. Their daring paid dividends, with Elska 1.0 collecting hundreds of bookings in its first weeks. Then Covid wrought havoc. Earlier this year the Dunnells rolled the dice again – relocating to inner-city New Farm – in time for another hard lockdown. Ever since, the word has been building. These days nabbing a booking for one of the twice-nightly, 15-course, $135 dégustations requires tenacity.…

These bite-sized beauties hail from Trentino Alto-Adige, a region with Austrian influence in the north of Italy. Often served in bars at breakfast time, alongside a rich espresso shot, they are equally delightful any time of day. Only weighed down by a generous serve of creamy filling, the dough is impossibly light, with the sparkly crunch of a spiced sugar coating. In our version, flecks of orange zest punctuate the dough while crushed fennel seeds add a savoury element to the sugar coating. Be warned: these little treats are extremely moreish. You’ll need to begin this recipe a day ahead to prove the dough. Step by step 1 Combine 100gm plain flour, 7gm dried yeast, 60gm honey, finely grated zest of 2 oranges and 130ml lukewarm water in the bowl…

According to Sean O’Brien, there are three types of people in the world; those who eat gelato in winter, those who eat it in summer, and the ones who eat it all year around. O’Brien and his partner, Mark Megahey, are in the latter category. The pair co-owns Ciccone & Sons, an Italian-style gelateria with a charming rockabilly vibe, which sits unassumingly on Regent Street in Sydney’s inner-city suburb of Redfern. Since opening in 2015, the store has evolved from operating a simple box freezer, to a café-style space serving whimsical-looking soft-serves, affogato, cocktails and 20 flavours of gelato and sorbetto. Megahey has been in the gelato-making business for nearly three decades, earning his stripes at inner-west institution, Bar Italia. “It’s this old-school Italian café in Leichhardt, maybe one of…

In his new book Ombra, chef CARLO GROSSI shares Roman-style pizza recipes from his popular Melbourne salumi bar. Pizza is not something to be taken lightly. There are many factors that result in great pizza, including the kind of flour used and the time taken to ferment the dough to develop the right crust that maintains some fluffiness but has enough stability to develop the perfect crusty cornicione around the edge. There’s a real science to creating a great pizza. I can't remember the first time I ever had pizza, but I can remember the first time I had one so inspiring that it elevated the whole concept to an art form for me. The soft chew of the dough was teamed with a lovely blistered crunch from the heat…

THE NEW MOOD Combine curvaceous, retro-inspired designs in soft sunset hues for a living room that’s playful yet practical. GREEN SCENE Create a dramatic dining room by layering emerald tones with dazzling Italian-made pieces.…

Studio Billie Bring a touch of sculptural serenity to any room with these elegant hand-poured candles from Studio Billie. Made in Sydney, they make the perfect gift to brighten anyone’s day. studiobillie.com Bippi Italian Style Chilli This fiery, textural condiment comes courtesty of Ben Circosta, a third-generation Italian living in North Melbourne. Inspired by a traditional family recipe, Bippi is as warming as a big kiss from nonna. bippifoods.com Alessandro Viola Note di Bianco An afternoon visit to Canberra’s excellent Paranormal Wines introduced us to this delightful Italian drop by Sicilian winemaker Alessandro Viola. Made from the little known grillo varietal, the Note di Bianco is as refreshing as a quick dip in the Med. @paranormalwines Orange, NSW Sampling the delights of Orange (including an afternoon at Printhie’s excellent cellar…

One of my weekly highlights is driving to Emilio’s Butchery in Rozelle to visit two of my favourite Lucky Kwong food purveyors, Will Heath and Milko Marinozzi. I first met them through longtime friend and biodynamic NSW farmer Tammy Kurtz of Lynden Lamb, whose product is sold at Emilio’s. I proudly offer Tammy’s stunning sustainably produced lamb and her father Paul’s delicious biodynamic Cowobbee beef brisket. I love how the food chain is re-humanised when we know the people behind the food that we cook with, and for me, the food definitely tastes better. Dynamic is certainly one word that could be used to describe butchery duo Will Heath and Milko Marinozzi. The unlikely pair co-own Emilio’s Specialty Butcher in Rozelle, a quaint, Italian-style specialty store with an unwavering commitment…

Stanley Tucci made the Negroni the must-drink cocktail in lockdown last year, thank to his YouTube masterclass guiding viewers on how to make the classic Italian cocktail. But the ruby red drink has been an acclaimed crowd-pleaser for more than a century. According to some, the Italian apéritif was originally fashioned in 1919, when Count Camillo Negroni asked a local Florentine bartender to strengthen his Americano – traditionally vermouth, Campari and soda – with gin. Since then, the stiff, herbaceous drink has gained a reputation for being dangerously powerful on an empty stomach. Yet, with its delightful orange twist, it’s an after-dinner digestif as much as an apéritif, too. As the late Anthony Bourdain once said: “It sets you up for dinner, in a way it makes you hungry, sands…

Tucked away in an unassuming and oh-so-narrow shopfront in Hobart’s CBD, Sonny is a wine bar-cum-restaurant that’s big on “good food, good wine, good tunes and good times” despite its diminutive dimensions. With an ever-changing soundtrack thanks to the record player by the front door and a stack of vinyl, Sonny’s laidback buzz is in full flight from the moment its door opens. If you don’t want to queue, be there at 4pm but if you miss that slot don’t worry, tables turn over pretty quickly. While some patrons are there to try everything on the compact seven-item menu, others are enjoying a snack and glass of wine before moving on to their main event. The blackboard menu sits behind the open bar and gives away very little – jamon…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Bistecca pizzaiola SERVES 4 4 sirloin steaks (about 250gm each) 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing 40 gm (¼ cup) capers in vinegar, drained 1 tbsp oregano leaves 1 rosemary sprig, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 400 gm canned whole cherry tomatoes 4 anchovy fillets, drained Char-grilled flatbread, to serve 1 Preheat oven to 220°C. Preheat a char-grill pan over high heat. Brush steaks with oil, season to taste and grill until browned (1-2 minutes each side). 2 Transfer to a baking dish that fits steaks snugly in one layer (or an ovenproof frying pan), add oil, scatter with capers, herbs and garlic, then crush in tomatoes and place an anchovy on each steak. Transfer to oven and…

Italians have been transforming the humble staple of milk into a vast array of gourmet ferments for centuries. Fiercely protected traditions, preserved via the globally recognised Denominazione di Origine Protetta (protected designation of origin or DOP) status are, in part, what make Italian cheeses so lauded. But it’s also the wide variety of textures and flavours that keep people in amore with formaggio. “Italian cheeses have become world-renowned because of their versatility. They’re not just a delicious table cheese, but they add so much to the culinary world and what we cook, especially in wintertime,” explains cheesemonger Anthony Femia, owner of Melbourne’s Maker and Monger. From grand wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano made to exacting standards, through to locally produced, hand-moulded spheres of mozzarella, Italian cheeses call upon tradition, expertly sourced…

NEAPOLITAN PIZZA Dating back to Naples in the 18th century, this style of pizza is the OG on the pizza scene. It should be soft and pillowy with dark char spots from a woodfired oven. To call a pizza authentically Neapolitan, it must be verified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (The True Neapolitan Pizza Association). NEW YORK-STYLE PIZZA Characterised by its large size and hand-tossed base, New York-style pizza is often sold in individual slices to-go. The crust is thick and crisp, yet still elastic enough that it can be easily folded in half. CHICAGO-STYLE PIZZA Often labelled as the deep-dish pizza city, Chicago is the birthplace of this hefty beauty. What sets this style apart from others is its super deep pie-like crust and plethora of sauce and…

Andrea Vignali had $100 left in his bank account when he started selling pasta from his Melbourne home last year. The Italian chef had been stood down from Grossi Florentino due to the pandemic and, as a foreign visa worker, wasn’t eligible for Government support. So he did what any Italian does in a crisis; he made pasta. Vignali partnered with his close friend, housemate, and fellow chef Davide Bonadiman and the pair quickly made a name for themselves, with their weekly pasta drops – in particular their tortellini cacio e pepe – earning a cult following amongst locked down Melburnians. One of those customers was Michelle Badek, who locked eyes with Vignali over a fleeting delivery. It was love at first sight – and came with the added benefit…

It used to be generally-accepted wisdom that when you made seasonal adjustments to your makeup bag, lighter summer formulas were swapped out for heavier, often matte ones that delivered more coverage. But advances in technology mean forgetting everything you know about winter base. Piling on makeup for a “look” is out. Instead, we’re opting for the crop of sophisticated, light-as-a-feather tints that are packed with complexion-enhancing actives with the texture of glow-inducing serums. The finish is more modern: they melt into skin for a fresh-looking radiance that lets your actual skin shine through, while evening out tone. Even better, the repairing and calming ingredients promise to improve skin over time. Some are tried-and-tested favourites with slight tweaks, like (3) Laura Mercier’s excellent tinted moisturiser ($71) with macadamia and kukui seed…

I spent the start of the New South Wales lockdown torturing myself by watching endless episodes of a reality television series set on the Amalfi Coast. Outside, a sodden blanket of grey cloaked Sydney. Inside, I was basking in the warmth of the Mediterranean and dreaming of eating frutti di mare in Positano. Like many Antipodeans, I have only experienced Italy in summer; long, hot days spent wandering cobbled streets, stopping for gelato in the shade and sipping Spritz at sunset. Of course, there is more to Italy and its cuisine than endless sunshine and seafood. And given none of us will be escaping under the Tuscan sun any time soon, this year, we decided to explore a different side of Italy. Hence, we present the Winter Italian issue. From…

After a hiatus last year, we’re thrilled to announce the return of Gourmet Traveller’s annual Restaurant Awards, with finalists to be announced in our October issue. With support from Visit Victoria, we’re bringing the event to Melbourne for the first time in more than 10 years, with a special awards dinner to be held at Andrew McConnell’s Gimlet at Cavendish House. On the night, we’ll reveal the winners of six individual awards, including Best New Restaurant, Best New Talent, Restaurant Personality of the Year, Best Wine Bar, Best Destination Dining and Chef of the Year, as well as the ultimate accolade in Australian dining – Restaurant of the Year. The winners, along with Australia’s Top 80 restaurants, will be profiled in our Celebration Special this November. GREENER PASTURES Queensland has…

Wine industry professionals are often asked to predict the next big trend or which region has great wines they might not have tried. What started as quiet murmurings among pinot noir lovers at tastings has now become shouts above the din, as more people are looking towards Gippsland and beginning to realise there’s something special happening in this largely undiscovered region in Victoria’s south-east. You could say this is our final frontier – there are not many genuine cool-climate regions left in Australia that are untapped the way Gippsland is. “There is no question in my mind that the greatest vineyard in Gippsland hasn’t even been planted yet – the Holy Grail is still out there,” says Marcus Satchell from Dirty Three Wines. And he would know, born and bred…

Adelaide Hills Bitter Orange This floral, orange bitter mixes Australian and European botanicals to create a fragrant blend that’s suited to a Negroni. $59 for 700ml vintagecellars.com.au Applewood Distiller Okar Island Bitter Forged from native riberries, Davidson plum and strawberry gum leaf, this rounded Amaro spirit is both fruity and bitter. $55 for 750ml applewooddistillery.com.au Poor Toms Imbroglio Amaro The product of 25 “outrageous” fruits and herbs, Imbroglio delivers a bold and aromatic flavour. $45 for 500ml poortoms.com…

THE MASCARPONE CREAM This soft, ivory mixture is typically a mix of mascarpone, eggs and sugar, with some recipes calling for a touch of cream. Federico Zanellato, chef and co-owner of Restaurant Leo in Sydney, likes to add a splash of Marsala, which brings a subtle caramel flavour to the dish. THE BISCUITS Sponge fingers, also known as savoiardi, are a dried sponge biscuit and act as the perfect vehicle to soak up the coffee mixture. Once soaked, the texture should become soft and cake-like, and ooze booze when bitten into. THE COFFEE Espresso and coffee-flavoured liqueur are stirred together to create a pool for the sponge fingers to be soaked in. And while there’s no single liqueur that works best, Zanellato suggests Galliano Ristretto as a luxe addition. We…

There was a time, not so long ago, when Italian restaurateurs had to explain focaccia, calamari and other Italian staples to diners. Rinaldo ‘Ronnie’ Di Stasio remembers it well. It was around the same time, he says, that “mixed pasta” could be found on menus across the country: an assortment of pasta slapped on a plate, sometimes served in the Italian flag’s colours. “We all fell for it! Thank God we’ve all come out of it alive,” laughs the Melbourne restaurateur. “It was really important to us to re-establish ourselves as Italians in Australia. With that came the notion of wanting to be proud of being second-generation Italian.” Back in 1985, modern Italian dining was yet to gain the cachet it has today, where cacio e pepe has cult status…

There are two things you absolutely must take to Griffith: a pair of stretchy pants and an extra bag to cart home all the goodies you accumulate along the way. There will be packets of dried pasta, crisp almond bread wafers, biscotti, prunes and olive oil… and that’s not to mention the dozens of bottles of wine. It’s safe to say there’s no shortage of delicious food in Griffith – Italian food to be specific. The city, which is located in the heart of the NSW Riverina, on Wiradjuri land, is a little slice of Italy in Australia thanks to the Italian migrants who settled here in the early 1900s. Now, more than 60 per cent of the city’s population claim Italian heritage. While there’s no doubt the region’s history…