Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

BEN WILLIAMSON chef Where there’s smoke Brisbane-based chef Ben Williamson has always had a knack for cooking over fire, and his modern Australian grill restaurant Agnes has helped him realise the full potential of flame-kissed cooking. In this issue, he shares recipes that harness the flavour of fire, from subtly smoked labne to ember-roasted chicken. “It sounds like a cliché but cooking with fire really does tap into your DNA in a way,” he says. THALIA HO photographer and writer Smoky sweets Award-winning food blogger Thalia Ho has forged a career centred around decadent recipes matched with her own poetic prose and photography. In this issue, we share recipes from her new book, Wild Sweetness, and its enigmatic smoke-themed chapter, which sees sweet treats imbued with subtle smoky flavours. “It’s…

MELBOURNE Despite a 14-day lockdown Melbourne’s hospitality troops are firing on all cylinders, with new openings still coming through. One of the most hotly anticipated arrivals is Aru, the latest venture from Sunda’s executive chef Khanh Nguyen. The menu rests on the flavours of south-east and east Asia, remixed for the modern Australian restaurant scene, underscored with fire, smoke, fermentation and curing techniques, all overlaid with Nguyen’s Vietnamese-Australian heritage. Take the bites and snacks: a Vietnamese-Bunnings sausage sanga hybrid, which sees a duck sausage glazed with leatherwood honey, and served on soft white bread with caramelised onion and hoisin sauce. Potato wedges with sour cream and sweet chilli sauce? They’ve shape-shifted into hasselback potatoes with a spiced herb sauce and a dressing of Laughing Cow cheese, and a potato-peel miso…

1 Low n Slow Meat Co. This newly opened destination for Brisbane-based American-style barbecue enthusiasts is situated within Brisbane’s new Rivermakers precinct. Half the site is a butcher and the other half is packed with barbecue accoutrements, with gear ranging from technical (think charcoal, hunks of fruit wood and knives) to tasty (with stacks of sauces, glazes, rubs and seasoning). 82 Colmslie Rd, Morningside, Qld. 2 Australian Meat Emporium This grand meat market is home to Sydney’s largest walk-in cool room, where you can grab a jacket and browse through rows of quality cuts. 29-31 O’Riordan St, Alexandria, NSW 3 Victoria Quality Butcher Specialising in meat primed for Korean-style barbecue, this Melbourne butcher stocks both pre-cut and marinated meats alongside classic fillet and bone-in cuts. Shop densely marbled wagyu, smoked…

IRREWARRA Almond and coconut This golden rubble combines everything you want in a toasted muesli; whole nuts, solid chunks of maple-rolled oats, thick flakes of coconut and sweet pops of dried fruit. Brown rice syrup brings an earthy sweetness to complete the mix. A luxurious way to start the day – and a perfect afternoon snack. $13.30 for 500gm, irrewarra.com.au SONOMA Spelt maple and almond The packet might look modest, but the contents are something to boast about. Toasted oats are combined with spelt to bring an extra level of nuttiness, amplified by shards of roasted almond. Maple syrup and vanilla combine to bring a subtle sweetness that doesn’t overpower the blend. $14.70 for 500gm, sonoma.com.au THE MUESLI FOLK Choconola Chocolate in your breakfast may sound intense, but this Tweed-based…

I first came to know of Oliver Costello and his amazing work through Groundswell Giving. Oli knows that there is right fire, and there is wrong fire. Firesticks is his life’s work; bringing Indigenous knowledge back onto Country to heal our environment and its people. When Oli leads a burn with Firesticks, it’s about culture, connection and community. All are welcome. Knowing that knowledge holders like Oli are leading the way and shaping the national conversation about fire and land management fills me with hope for the future. Fire is more than just an element to Oliver Costello, it’s a spiritual responsibility. The proud Bundjalung man has always felt deeply connected to his natural surroundings, spending his formative years exploring, hunting and fishing around his local Byron-Lismore area. It wasn’t…

The Hot Toddy we know today – warm, boozy and punctuated with warming spices – is the byproduct of an Indian drink made from fermented palm sap, known as “tadi” in Hindi. Like many things, the British appropriated the recipe during their colonisation of India in the early 1600s, claiming the tipple as their own. By 1786, tadi was defined as a drink “made of alcoholic liquor with hot water, sugar and spices”. Today, that’s essentially what the Hot Toddy is. Whisky is the most common choice of liquor, however almost anything, from vodka to tequila, can be used. Sweet spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg bring flavours reminiscent of Christmas, while honey, lemon and ginger add a kick of immune-boosting goodness. Brandy Hot Toddy Add 60ml water to…

Until now, vol-au-vents have been the stuff of nightmares for me. Loaded with claggy béchamel sauce studded with tinned tuna and corn, they were a typical mid-week meal growing up – and I’d feign a mystery illness every time. But there’s no need at Porcine. Here, the passé puff-pastry case has been elevated to contemporary heights with delicate chunks of scallop and sweet braised fennel. A decadent Champagne sauce pools underneath, like a moat around a fancy French château. The reincarnated vol-au-vent is just one example of the confident cooking you can expect to find at Paddington’s latest arrival. Brought to you by an all-star cast – Nik Hill (The Old Fitz), Harry Levy (Don Peppino’s) and Matt Fitzgerald (Solotel Group) – the bistro fuses French classics with British pub…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Speedy carrot dhal SERVES 4 2 bunches (approx. 300gm) baby heirloom carrots, trimmed, scrubbed 1 brown onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tbsp grated ginger 800 gm canned brown lentils, drained 400 gm canned crushed tomato 270 ml coconut cream 4 store-bought roti Fried curry leaves or coriander sprigs, to serve TARKA 80 ml (1/3 cup) ghee or vegetable oil 4 sprigs curry leaves 4 whole dried chillies, torn 2 tbsp store-bought dukkah 1 To make tarka, heat 60ml (¼ cup) ghee in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add curry leaves and cook until crisp (30 seconds; be careful as hot oil may spit). Remove leaves and set aside. Add chillies, dukkah and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally…

Hailing from the north of Spain, Basque cheesecake is the perfectly imperfect dessert with the now-iconic burnt exterior. Credited to chef Santiago Rivera, his creamy creation first wowed in 1990. A smokiness that offsets the sweetness, no crust and a pillowy centre hiding just beneath the scorched top is the result of a simple combination of ingredients. Where Ester’s Mat Lindsay uses the flames of his wood-fired oven to bake his blackened version, you can recreate it at home by baking at a high temperature. Step by step Preheat oven to 240°C fan-forced. Line base and side of a 22cm springform tin with two pieces of baking paper, extending paper 5cm above the rim of the tin (see note, right). Beat 1kg room temperature cream cheese in the bowl of…

Any backyard barbecue enthusiast will tell you there are a million ways to cook a steak – and their way is the best way. Recently, the reverse sear method – a combination of indirect and direct grilling – is the technique everyone’s talking about. Irene Sharp, who runs online blog and events business Aussie Grill Sisters with her sister Desi, explains exactly how to do it: 1 Start your steak away from the direct heat of the charcoal until the internal temperature reaches 51°C. 2 Give it a quick sear over direct heat for around two minutes, flipping frequently until it reaches 54°C. 3 Rest for 5 to 10 minutes for a medium rare steak.…

WHAT TO WATCH FILMS 1 THE DRY Amazon Prime Video Eric Bana (pictured, right) will have you transfixed with his magnetic portrayal of a federal police officer haunted by youthful antics and small town gossip. The realism and realities of rural Australia and its tight-knit communities drive the story, while also serving as a sweeping backdrop that’s simultaneously nostalgic and stirring. Dramatic tension builds until the very last moment, making for intense and thrilling viewing. 2 BABYTEETH Amazon Prime Video Shannon Murphy’s feature-length directorial debut is both hilarious and heart-breaking, all in the same breath. The coming-of-age dramedy centres on Milla, a terminally ill teenager who falls for a drug-addicted runaway. It may sound bleak but rest assured, Babyteeth makes for charming viewing. 3 SOUND OF METAL Amazon Prime Video…

Dan dan mian SERVES 2 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 20 MINS “Classic dan dan noodles are made with pork and a preserved mustard green called ya cai mixed with spices and chilli oil. In this vegetarian version, I have used fresh tofu and shiitake mushrooms for texture and flavour,” says Tony Tan. “Now that fresh wheat noodles are readily available, the best noodle for this recipe is one with medium thickness. They are sometimes called Shanghai noodles.” Pictured p105 100 gm firm tofu, crumbled 1 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 30 gm dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in 250ml hot water for 10 minutes 500 gm fresh wheat noodles 2 tbsp vegetable oil Handful chopped spring onions, to serve CHILLI OIL 500 ml vegetable…

I was fresh off a flight from London and had rolled up to Sandy Bay, a little north of Auckland, in my converted Toyota Lucida camper. And I’d just spotted the public beach barbecues that Aussies and Kiwis blithely take for granted. “Are these, like, free barbecues? For just anyone to use? Communal grills? Right here on the beach?” With these words, I realised New Zealand is one of the most civilised nations on the planet. By “civilised”, I mean “evolved in a manner that our ancestors would approve of”. And if I were a hominid, I’d have certainly hoped that by 2021, my descendants would have made it significantly simpler to grill a load of meat for the tribe. Because cooking over fire has been a human priority from…

Inspired by Huski Luxury Apartments, Falls Creek, Vic…

The self-help mindset of change-from-within has hit the hair care aisle in recent years, with the integrity and condition of our manes becoming more important than ever. Happily, this approach is perfect for cooler months, when less moisture in the air and heating can leave hair dry, limp and prone to frizz. In the short-term, less-damaging heat styling tools (hello, Dyson) and shine sprays can mask your hair woes. But longer term, adopting hair care rituals that are as relaxing as they are regenerating means a healthier crown and less styling required. Smoothing a leave-in oil through just-washed mid-lengths and ends, letting it dry naturally while you start your day, is just one of the perks our shift towards the remote office has allowed. To maintain condition, get protective of…

Trudon boutique Trudon candles have been lighting Europe’s grandest residences for nearly 400 years. Now, Australia has welcomed its first boutique in Sydney’s Paddington, just next door to Santa Maria Novella. trudon.com.au Coravin Pivot There’s no excuse to drink bad wine with the new Coravin Pivot making it even easier to savour a glass of something special. The compact system can be used on cork or screw-top bottles, keeping wine fresh for up to four weeks. coravin.com.au The Caley Speaking of special, Yalumba has released its fifth vintage of The Caley, capturing the very best of Coonawara cabernet and Barossa shiraz. At $365 a bottle, it’s one to cellar for a special future occasion. yalumba.com Manta La dolce vita vibes are high at Manta on Woolloomooloo’s Finger Wharf, where the…

CRUNCH TIME What started out as a passion project for Barrie Seldon quickly turned into a business prospect after winning gold for this heat-driven, pangrattato-like topping at a Western Australian chilli festival. Made from an intensely textural combination of oats, chillies, coconut, onion, sesame and garlic, this fiery condiment brings life to the simplest of salads, soups and pastas. Try adding to roast vegetables or fried rice for extra crunch, too. krunchilli.com.au LIGHT IT UP Adelaide continues to live up to its “festival state” moniker, with the arrival of Illuminate Adelaide. For 17 nights the city will be aglow with light installations and interactive art pieces. The star attraction of the music program will see The Avalanches joined by the Adelaide Symphony Orchestra, to celebrate 21 years since the release…

Parrilla This is the catch-all name for the type of grill traditionally found throughout Central and South America. It is essentially a metal grate suspended above a firebox. Hibachi Meaning “fire bowl”, the hibachi is a traditional Japanese charcoal brazier. Ami-yaki is the Japanese method of barbecuing on open mesh, which allows the fats and juices to drip onto the hot coals, imparting food with a smoked flavour. Josper Rather than a specific method of cooking, Josper is a respected brand of charcoal ovens. Founded in 1969 by Pere Juli and Josep Armangué in Barcelona, it has become a leader in charcoal gastronomy, with a number of notable chefs installing the company’s rotisseries, Basque grills and charcoal ovens in their restaurant kitchens. Hāngi This is a traditional Māori method of…

When I’m getting on an aeroplane, I love wearing a new tracksuit... Then I always wear a trench coat over it for some polish. I would say one of the most valuable lessons I have learned while travelling is to be organised. Prior to Covid I was travelling for work a lot and I would organise my trips down to the hour – my meetings, museums, restaurants, everything. By being organised and having everything planned has allowed me to be more spontaneous in those in-between moments. You can really be where you are and soak in the moment more instead of worrying or planning. For design inspiration I draw on so many incredible places. In my formative years as a designer, Italy was where I perfected my craft. I won…

The Hilltops region surrounds the township of Young in southern New South Wales, which boasts the unofficial title of “cherry capital of Australia” (although Orange might have something to say about that). But what is undisputed by both winemakers and drinkers alike is the incredible quality of new wave wines coming out of the region. Making up just two per cent of vineyards in New South Wales, the region is proving small but mighty when it comes to wine production, delivering quality over quantity. With a moderate daytime temperature range that is perfect for drawing out the ripening process, the Hilltops region delivers wines that share one common trait, according to Dr Brian Freeman of Freeman Vineyards – “an intensity of flavour”. What makes the region so unique is the…

St Agnes XO 15 year old This citrus and stone-fruit forward brandy is the ultimate drop for a Hot Toddy. Aged for 15 years, it’s rounded and balanced with hints of sweet oak. $114 for 700ml stagnesdistillery.com.au 23rd St Not Your Nanna’s Vanilla, apricot and honey are the primary notes here. Two years in a mix of French and American oak give this brandy a rich colour and nuanced flavour. $50 for 700ml 23rdstreetdistillery.com.au Bass and Flinders Ochre Layers of orange peel and caramel give this Australian, leather-bound bottle depth and length. Touches of clove and cinnamon complement the cocktail perfectly. $230 for 700ml bassandflindersdistillery.com…

Melbourne may be a little punch-drunk post-lockdown number four, but there’s plenty of life in the city yet. In fact, despite the many obvious signs that Things Have Changed, it’s not stretching the truth to say the city is also experiencing a boom of sorts, given the number of restaurants, bars and hotels that have opened in recent months. There are more on the way too. While some of them were planned pre-pandemic, many others followed it. The best thing? It’s not just the safety of business as usual. Risks are being taken, new ideas are being explored, optimism is present and accounted for. It appears the city enjoys a challenge and it’s fired Melbourne up. “That we’ve been able to get through this last 12 months and actually open…

Every morning, cakes, scones, focaccias, cinnamon scrolls and a range of obsession-inducing loaves (including the bakery’s signature fig leaf-adorned sourdough) await purchase at Cherry Moon General Store, still warm from the brick wood-fired oven at the rear of the store. The hearth at the heart of the popular Sydney bakery, tucked away in a back street of Annandale in the city’s inner-west, is the manifestation of owner and head baker Kimmy Gastmeier’s professional and personal journey, along with centuries of wood-fired knowledge spanning cultures and continents. “It’s an Alan Scott oven,” says Gastmeier, referring to the caravan-sized installation she commissioned for the bakery; previously a De Bortoli wine cellar. “He was a blacksmith from Tasmania who was angry that centuries of wood-fired culture was being forgotten.” Scott, who died in…

Sommelier Jenna Phillpott of Melbourne’s newest wine bar, Auterra Wine Bar in Armadale, shares a selection of the best drops to explore in the cooler months. From boutique Victorian producers through to international vignerons, each of these wines will pair perfectly with an open fire. 2017 Crissante Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo Piedmonte The Alessandria family have been producing wines since 1958 and when opening this wine, you can’t help but be transported to the rolling hills of Langhe. It’s easy to imagine strolling between the vines, as aromas of fresh truffles, roasted hazelnuts, roses, and wild mint jump out of the glass. $45, justgrapejuice.com 2016 Marion, Valpolicella Superiore Corvina Blend Veneto A portion of the grapes used to make this wine are rack dried, creating an intense flavour, loaded with luscious…

Winter is known to assault the senses, but if there’s anything it teaches us, it’s that not all lies dormant. It turns us ravenous. Thirsts become deeper; hungers, greater; and desires, stronger. Smoke is synonymous with the new season, for fire is at its heart. It’s primal. Who we are, what we are, stripped down to the core. I’ve always thought that the body eats but the spirit remembers, and smoke sates some savage within, however deep or buried. It’s comforting and familiar, but with a bad reputation. I don’t think it’s as overpowering or narcotic as it’s made out to be; instead subtle, secretive and shy. Not just soot, ash, or smog, but elemental and earthen, with a rather feverish undertone; it’s complex. And therein lies its beauty. It’s…

Nothing clears the head quite like the bright skies and crisp air of a near-freezing morning in Queenstown. A few deep breaths are all it takes to feel refreshed and revitalised, ready to take on the day ahead. Which is just as well, as the region is home to some of the world’s best pinot noir and the tendency to overindulge soars as the temperature drops. Of course, you don’t need to spend your days blasting down the region’s ski fields to enjoy a winter escape in Queenstown, although it does add a certain satisfaction as you treat yourself to a venison steak dinner or while away an afternoon wine-tasting through the Gibbston Valley. In fact, the longer you spend exposed to that fresh, bracing air, the more decadent it…

Kate Somerville Lifting Eye Cream A triple peptide complex relaxes the look of wrinkles, hyaluronic acid plumps and hydrates, while vitamin C brighten and firms under your eyes. $182, Mecca. Jurlique Nutri-Define Supreme Eye Contour Balm Rich and highly concentrated, this anti-ageing balm dramatically improves the appearance of deep lines, with the addition of alfalfa seed extract to target puffiness. $105, Jurlique. Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge Eye and Lip Contour Cream Re-energise your eye contour with this velvety formula that firms the upper eyelids, or use above your lips for a smoother, more youthful pout. $265, Sisley Paris. Bare Minerals Skin Longevity Long Life Herb Eye Treatment This vegan, plant-powered eye cream strengthens the delicate skin around your eyes as California poppy provides antioxidant protection. $53, Mecca. Supremÿa Eyes at Night…

Let’s be clear: we know cooking with fire is nothing new. It is as old as humankind itself; the very reason we have survived and evolved to the point we’re at today. But while many societies have kept fire at the centre of their food culture, burning bright, others have turned their backs on it, favouring more efficient, convenient methods. Because while it may be the most primitive method of cooking, to do it well can prove quite the challenge. Which is part of the reason cooking with fire is experiencing such a resurgence. For many, there is enormous pleasure to be found in building the perfect fire; in experimenting with different types of wood and the subtleties they bring to a dish. It can be a laborious process –…

How did you get into cooking? My mother-in-law used to own a hawker stall in Penang, which specialised in char koay teow. When she came on holiday here, she bought her special sauce to do her char koay teow, and that’s when the idea popped into my head to bring her char koay teow to Melbourne. I started selling dishes online, and then in June 2019 I had a pop-up in the Hawker Hall. Eventually I found my own shop in Hardware Lane in May 2020. Can you tell us more about your signature dish? It’s a street food dish that’s very popular in Malaysia. The Penang char koay teow is a bit different from the other states in Malaysia – this one is more on the savoury side, a…

NEW SOUTH WALES The Sapphire Coast has welcomed the second coming of Hillcrest Merimbula. The bones of the lush accommodation were originally built in 1969 as a local motel, and now the entire property has undergone a chic and modern refurbishment. The elevated property, set across nearly two acres of land, has been rejuvenated with a new pool, native garden and tennis court, while the rooms feature specially commissioned artworks and fresh timber finishes. Similarly up the coast in Northern NSW, The Surf Yamba has become the first boutique hotel in the area. Located across from Yamba’s main beach, guests will find a rooftop terrace and plunge pool, alongside contemporary rooms. VICTORIA  Melbourne Marriott Hotel Docklands has just opened, complete with a 28-metre infinity pool and rooftop bar. It’s also…

Have you ever had the experience of planting coriander seedlings, only to have them bolt immediately to seed? The problem lies not with the plant itself, but is a common example of user error. We tend to think of seasons in terms of temperature: summer is hot, winter is cold, spring and autumn are mild. But there is more to seasons than merely temperature. Equally as important as the change in temperature over the seasons, is the change in day length. The further south you travel from the equator, the more the day length changes over the course of the year. In Tasmania and the South Island of New Zealand, winter days are noticeably shorter than summer days. The summer and winter solstices mark the longest and shortest days of…

2020 Mallaluka x Built to Spill ‘Fight Fire with Fire’ Sauvignon Blanc Pet Nat, $35 Mallaluka winemaker Sam Leyshon teamed up with online wine and vinyl retailer Built to Spill to create this experimental bubbles, made with Freeman Vineyards sauvignon blanc. The result is a mezcalmeets-pineapple skin, savoury style of sparkling. Plus, 20 per cent of profits goes to the Firesticks Alliance and Lord Mayor’s Distress Relief Fund. builttospill.wine 2021 Nick Spencer Hilltops Rosé, $25 When pairing rosé with cooler months, a bit more weight and mouthfeel is required. Throw in some juicy red fruit notes with refreshing acidity to pair with slow-cooked dishes. Winemaker Nick Spencer’s latest release ticks all the boxes thanks to its blend of Hilltops grenache, sangiovese, merlot and graciano. A perfectly delicious, medium-weight rosé. nickspencerwines.com.au…

Otherwise known as the Cubano, the Cuban sandwich is an icon of Cuban culture in America. The layered feast is said to have been born in the late 1800s as a quick and affordable meal for cigar factory workers in Florida’s Tampa and Key West. As both the cigar industry and Cuban immigration boomed throughout Florida, particularly in Miami, so did the popularity of the Cubano. While the ingredients remain straightforward, there are a few regional variations, including Tampa’s addition of salami. Danielle Alvarez, head chef at Fred’s in Sydney and Miami born-and-raised, believes keeping it simple is key. “There are a lot of things that could add to or change this sandwich, but in my opinion, a super-classic Cuban is the best version!” THE BREAD You’ll be hard pressed…

Cameron Stephens Condimental, NSW I once visited a chilli seed specialist on the Central Coast on a research mission, and boy, he was a total character. It was 10am and he roped us into a tasting session of his super-hot chillies, fresh off the tree; Chocolate Scorpions, Carolina Reapers, etc. “Come on,” he said. “Just bite off the ends, that part of the chilli barely has any spice in it.” He then told us how he had cross-bred a chilli hotter than anything he had ever grown, that had potential to set a new Guinness World Record for the hottest chilli on earth. The problem was, he’d eaten the only chilli on the tree that contained the seeds needed to grow more. He proudly told us how he ran to…

Smoke billows and swirls, and flames flicker and glow as the aroma of delicious fire-cooked dishes fill the air at the Dark Mofo Winter Feast in Hobart, enticing you in. In ancient times, fire-cooking was most likely borne out of the necessity to sustain life, but today, other than the sheer joy, simplicity and spectacle of cooking food this way, it’s all about the extra flavour that cooking with fire imparts. Charring builds flavour – the deep, complex layers of flavour that have us clamouring for more. The process of charring fruit and vegetables caramelises their natural sugars and intensifies their flavour, rendering them soft and sweet on the inside with a delicious crisp char on the outside. Charring also adds a lovely smoky flavour to foods, the flavour profile,…

TONAL TEXTURES Roll out a patterned rug then layer with jewel tones and contrasting shapes for an interesting and inviting space. MINTY REFRESH For a cool, calm and contemporary kitchen, soften an edgy marble-and-black palette with a hint of mint.…