Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

Win a Thermomix As we officially welcome the start of soup season, we’re celebrating with the ultimate kitchen helper. Simply subscribe to GT (or renew your subscription) and you’ll be in to win one of 20 prize packs, each valued at more than $2500. magshop.com.au/gmt Tumami by Alice If you’re still not quite clear on umami, head to page 60 for our comprehensive explainer. But for a real life lesson, grab yourself some Tumami and get tasting. Made by Alice Zaslavsky, it combines tomato and black garlic to create a flavour bomb in a jar. Boom. byalice.com.au Lobster kitsch Crustaceans are having a moment, particularly when it comes to tableware. We’ve seen ceramic crabs, prawns and lobsters aplenty. But none have tickled us quite as much as this retro delight.…

Matakana, New Zealand The sun was shining and the Champagne flowed as I arrived in Matakana, north of Auckland, to reunite with my closest friends after more than a year apart. The day was spent dining alfresco and playing Kubb on the lawn overlooking this spectacular view. Heaven. Joanna Hunkin, editor Nico’s Sandwiches These sambos aren’t simply sustenance, they’re reason enough to hustle back into the CBD and celebrate Friday with a Cubano in hand and disco music playing in the background. 1 Healeys Lane, Melbourne, Vic. Jordan Kretchmer, writer Fleur From pouring sake to reworking sushi, the dining room inside The Royal references Japanese cuisine in cool, unexpected ways. Case in point: these elegant kangaroo and pork tsukune – fluffy, smoky, and all too easy to eat. 531 Wellington…

After developing their own line of Japanese-style Basque cheesecakes in lockdown last year, Sydney’s 15 Centimeters has released a dedicated tea-flavoured series, which includes hōjicha milk tea and single origin matchaflavoured cakes. Keep your eyes peeled for their forthcoming Japanese “jiggling” cheesecake, which is set to be released later this year. 15centimeters.com.au Hunters and collectors Una Más’ head chef Andrew Wandless (pictured above right) and Icebergs Dining Room and Bar’s Alex Prichard are set to head to the Hunter Valley for the The annual Food Fight lunch and auction. The pair will face off against local chefs Sam Alexander (Yellow Billy Restaurant) and Mitchell Beswick (Muse Restaurant) to help raise money for aspiring chefs in the greater Hunter region. hunterculinary.com.au How does Kisumé’s dining experience work? Kisumé houses a few…

I grew up in Cherrybrook, which is a suburb in Sydney about 30 minutes from the city. It had a very big Chinese population, to the point that when it was Mid-Autumn Festival on the community oval, we’d do a lantern dance and there’d be markets and stuff like that. You take it for granted; when you’re little you don’t realise that the way you grow up is perhaps a bit different to how other kids grow up. I had a really big extended family, so it was common for us to have people over on Saturday or to go to other people’s houses. Food was the way you got together. Everything was centred around a meal. In my family, if you ever have something stuck in your throat at…

When the editor asked me to profile yuzu for this issue, I was only too happy to oblige. For the past decade or so, I have spent several months each year working in Japan, where I’ve fallen in love with this unique citrus fruit. Whilst we tend to associate the yuzu with Japanese cuisine, it is worth noting that it is also enjoyed in Korea, where it is known as yuja. The ‘normal’ citrus fruits we are familiar with in Australia and New Zealand all have a similar lineage. Oranges, lemons, limes, mandarins and grapefruits are complex hybrids descended from three wild ancestors: the wild mandarin, pomelo and citron. The wild mandarin gave them sweetness, orange colour and a loose rind. The pomelo gave them size. The citron provided them…

The highball, in its simplest form, is a base spirit topped with carbonated water; think gin and tonic, scotch and soda, or rum and Coke. Although the Brits lay claim to this fizzed tipple, its popularity in Japan is irrefutable. While the whiskey highball remains most recognisable, any spirit can be used. Here, we’ve opted for shochu – a uniquely Japanese spirit typically distilled from rice, barley or sweet potato. “Shochu is special in its own way, as it is often on par with premium vodkas and gins, without the price tag attached,” says Stuart Thompson, bar manager of Saké The Rocks. Miss Wednesday with a twist This rose-hued highball is our twist on one of Saké Bar’s staples, Miss Wednesday; a floral and sophisticated ode to shochu. In a…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Chicken katsu curry SERVES 4 800 gm chicken tenderloins 100 gm Kewpie mayonnaise 225 gm panko breadcrumbs (Japanese) Peanut or grapeseed oil, to shallow-fry Steamed rice, Japanese pickled vegetables, tonkatsu sauce, micro green shiso (optional) and furikake, to serve (see note) KATSU SAUCE 2 tbsp peanut or grapeseed oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 tbsp finely grated ginger 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp curry powder 1 tsp garam masala 2 tbsp plain flour 250 ml Obento tonkatsu sauce 1 For chicken katsu, place chicken and mayonnaise in a large bowl and season. Toss to coat each tenderloin well in mayonnaise. Working with one piece of chicken at a time, place in panko and turn to coat all over. Transfer to a tray and…

1. Japanese short-grain white rice Rice forms the base of some of Japan’s most popular dishes. This is a glutinous, short-grain rice that becomes sticky once cooked. Use it for sushi or donburi. 2. Rice flour A sticky rice flour commonly used to make Japanese confectionery. It’s entirely gluten-free, too. 3. Pink pickled ginger Also known as gari, these bright pickled strips are sweet, spicy and briny. Store in the pantry before opening, and the fridge straight after. 4. Karashi mustard Made from crushed Brassica juncea seeds, this fiery, slightly bitter condiment has a flavour similar to horseradish. 5. Soy sauce Everybody’s favourite, soy sauce, or shoyu, adds depth and complexity without overpowering the hero ingredients of a dish. 6. Cooking sake Cooking sake is one of the most valuable…

Kara-age. Yakitori. Sushi. And snacks – lots of snacks. For many Japanese Australians working in food and wine, the comforts of home come in bite-size pieces. From restaurants and supermarkets, to gardens and festivals, it turns out there are plenty of Japanese gems hidden in our own backyard. While our grand plans for picnics under cherry blossom trees, bento boxes on bullet trains, and 5am ramen in the city that never sleeps are still on hold, the land of the rising sun is not completely out of reach after all. So just where do you go when you want a taste of Japan? We asked seven prominent Japanese Australians working in food and wine to share their rituals of reconnection and help us uncover the best spots to experience a…

“I always say yes to requests to repair broken items… I feel it is my mission to save them.” Art kintsugi method: step by step Kawada examines the broken pieces and files down the edges to create channels. She then glues the pieces together and holds firmly until the glue is set, before removing excess glue. Kawada uses masking tape to protect the ceramic surface then fills the channels and missing segments with resin putty. She then polishes the surface with sandpaper before applying lacquer and sprinkling over fine gold, silver or brass powder.…

The food that we grow up eating stays with us forever. My mother didn’t work outside the home, but she was always busy. Her kitchen was constantly in motion. Throughout the house there was always evidence of our next meal, or food for the future. As is often the case with immigrant cooks, my mother’s food was unfussy and frugal. She grew her own food in our suburban backyard – shallots, gourds, chillies, mandarins, cumquats and greens – and managed to create stunning meals from these humble ingredients. It is with this ethos that I have created the recipes in this book, showcasing big flavours achieved from minimal ingredients, using everyday vegetables. To Asia, With Love offers recipes that are rooted in the East, with hints of the West. The…

OKINAWA Based on the places I’ve travelled to, Okinawa makes me think of an exciting and eclectic mix of aspects of Japan, America, Australia and even Hong Kong. The beaches, such as Manza Beach, are dreamy and the sea is as clear as any I’ve seen in Australia. The locals are so friendly and cheerful, and the mood a slow island pace. The island is exposed to many typhoons, and you definitely need a car or taxi to get there, but if you’re interested in a mix of Japanese and Western culture, then you should definitely book a trip to this dreamy place. The cuisine, with its American influence and local delicacies, is some of the most delicious food I’ve tried in Japan. The range of Japanese-meets-American food at the…

Last year marked the first time Gourmet Traveller had ever published a Japan issue in its 55-year-history. We were excited but apprehensive – not least because the world was in lockdown and travel anywhere seemed a very distant dream. So we were both surprised and delighted when the issue went on to become a bestseller. The response was overwhelming; our readers love Japan and they loved the issue. This year, we’re giving you more of what you love with our second edition of the Japan issue. And while it will still be some months until we can visit the island nation, there are plenty of places to experience a taste of Japan right here in Australia. In addition to exploring hidden Japanese gems, we retrace the history of Japanese cuisine…

SYDNEY Surry Hills has welcomed Bar Suze, a wine bar by three pals who met working across the likes of Pinbone, Acme and 121BC. In the kitchen Phil Stenvall’s Swedish heritage comes through in the ever-changing menu, which may include smoked prawns with saffron aïoli one night, and smoked mussels with ’nduja and toasted bread the next; while the wine list favours Italian, Australian and French producers. An ex-Peppe’s chef can now be found at Lorraine’s, the newly minted bistro above Waverley’s Robin Hood Hotel, which pays tribute to the venue’s original owner Lorraine Havin, one of the first female licensees in New South Wales. Chef Clement Marchais is working over a charcoal grill to produce dishes including charred octopus with harissa and potato; and charcoal leek with hazelnut and…

1 Sake Connect Sake curator and educator Melissa Mills traded a career in dentistry to follow her passion for sake, going on to study Japanese, before undertaking formal training in 2016. Mills has had the pleasure of tasting more than 1,500 sakes while on the panel of the 2018 IWC Sake Challenge in Yamagata, Japan, and now channels this knowledge into her online store. sakeconnect.com 2 Black Market Sake Established in 2010 by Matt Young (former beverage director at Fratelli Paradiso and 10 William Street, and Aria sommelier) and Linda Wiss, this sake importer and retailer showcases artisanal sake through producer profiles and in-depth tasting and production notes. blackmarketsake.com 3 Sake Shop This shochu, sake, umeshu and Japanese beer shop was founded by the folks behind knife specialists, Chef’s Armoury.…

WADAMAN Gold sesame oil Osaka-based producer Wadaman is said to harvest the finest sesame seeds in Japan, and has done so for more than 130 years. This oil is in a class of its own; robust and rich, its deep-roasted flavour is well balanced with an underlying sweetness. $36 for 180gm, providerstore.com.au YAMADA SEIYU White sesame oil Based in Kyoto, this family run business has been making sesame oil for three generations. Their expertise is showcased in this soft and nuanced white sesame oil. Seeds are hand-selected and toasted in wood-fired ovens before being pressed and filtered. $37.30 for 300ml, twoprovidores.com.au KUKI Dark sesame seed oil Kuki has been employing the same compression method to make its products since 1886. The entire process, including cloth-paper filtering, takes roughly one-and-a-half months.…

Nearly 170 years after the original gold rush swept the Victorian town of Beechworth, the area is setting a new gold standard, leading the way when it comes to delightful Victorian chardonnay (alongside Yarra Valley, Geelong and the Mornington Peninsula). Crafting some of the most exciting wines in the region is Tessa Brown from Vignerons Schmölzer and Brown. Having worked as a viticulturist and winemaker across the country and the world, Brown and partner Jeremy Schmölzer use Beechworth’s altitude to their advantage. “I love Beechworth; its altitude will give us climate change mitigation and hopefully enough rainfall to be dry grown in the future,” she says. Brown says each winery in Beechworth has its own unique microclimate that highlights not only the individuality of the region as a whole, but…

Koyomi shochu Produced using traditional methods, this single-distilled shochu is made from barley, bringing crisp flavours and a fresh character. $42 for 700ml selected retailers Mitsutake shuzojo This shochu, crafted with sweet potato, black koji and water sourced directly from the Tara mountains, is naturally sweet. $88 for 900ml winonawine.com Momosuke shodai From sixth-generation producer Inoue Shuzo, this drop has a soft barley flavour with refreshing notes of citrus and spice. $59 for 720ml sakeshop.com.au…

The word okonomiyaki comes from the Japanese word okonomi, meaning things that you like, and yaki, which means grilled. The savoury pancake is made from a batter of flour and cabbage and filled with any meat, seafood or vegetables that take your fancy. The dish is said to have originated in post-war Japan as an easy and inexpensive form of sustenance. Although popular across the country, okonomiyaki is most specifically associated with the Kansai and Hiroshima regions, resulting in two distinct styles in which it can be cooked. Hiroshima-style is similar to a sandwiched crêpe, with noodles layered between two fried circles of batter. Kansai- or Osaka-style is more reminiscent of a rosti, with all the elements mixed into the batter. Chase Kojima, executive chef at Sydney’s Sokyo, suggests eating…

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, I’d eagerly park myself on our Brescia sofa to watch Iron Chef, the cult classic Japanese TV show that was part cooking, part crazed gameshow. The judges on the show would be feasting on uni and tonburi seeds. I’d be eating a French Onion Le Snak and kiwi-strawberry Snapple. Australian food TV up to this point had been little more than Geoff Jansz chucking a lamb cutlet onto a barbie and Peter Russell-Clarke bellowing “Where’s the cheese?!” Iron Chef was real, intelligent cooking. It was melodramatic, sure. Inexplicably, the host bit into a yellow capsicum in every opening sequence. But behind the goofball theatrics (played up by the cheesy English dubbing), real chefs were doing extraordinary things with udon, duck feet and cuttlefish,…

Saori Tsuya, who owns and helps run Carlton fine diner Kazuki’s with her chef husband Kazuki, pauses when asked to explain the restaurant’s approach. “It’s hard to describe exactly what we do here,” she says of the restaurant where Japanese and European flavour and technique are melded in exquisite combinations. “We are Japanese and we know Japanese food but we are not a typical Melbourne Japanese restaurant. Many of our influences have come from our time in Melbourne.” The quality and skill of Kazuki’s cooking make it almost incomprehensible that he came to cooking by accident. In 2002 he was running low on money while travelling in Australia and applied for a waiting job at Misuzu’s, an izakaya-style restaurant in Melbourne. Because his English wasn’t great, he was instead offered…

There are few chefs who could say they’ve emerged from the past year with a renewed sense of energy, and Kylie Kwong feels fortunate to count herself as one of them. “I know I am on the best path for this next chapter because everything just feels right and I feel completely reinvigorated,” says Kwong. This next chapter is opening Lucky Kwong, an Australian-Cantonese cafeteria-style restaurant located within the South Eveleigh precinct. Kwong describes it as “super-casual, fast, open, warm, welcoming, energetic – it will feel like you are in [my] home for a meal”. Unlike her seminal restaurant Billy Kwong, it will be a walk-in, no-bookings setup, with a small menu and daily specials. But similarly, it will deliver Kwong’s signature dishes that combine creativity, care and most importantly,…

NEW SOUTH WALES Sustainable hotel group Crystalbrook Collection is set to open the first five-star hotel in Newcastle. Transforming the long-standing Roundhouse building (which started out in the 1970s as the City Administration Centre) and located opposite Civic Park, Crystalbrook Kingsley has 130 contemporary rooms and suites with either harbour or park views. In the rooms, all bathroom amenities are biodegradable or recyclable, while throughout the hotel there’s keyless room access, paperless check-in and check-out and no single-use plastic. The hotel’s restaurant and rooftop bar will source 80 per cent of its produce grown from within a three-hour radius of the hotel. VICTORIA Melbourne’s CBD hotel resurgence is continuing with the arrival of Mövenpick Hotel Melbourne on Spencer, marking the Swiss brand’s second site in Australia. Run by Accor, the…

In 2004 I shifted my Billy Kwong menu from conventional ingredients to local, organic and biodynamic. This is when I first met Spiral Foods founder James Wilson, as I began to use his delicious organic tamari and brown rice vinegar. Spiral sauces have become part of my menu’s DNA. The company recently celebrated its 42nd anniversary, which is testament to the integrity of Jim’s intention: the belief that wholesome food is a basic human right. Essence is a word that comes up a lot when speaking with James Wilson. The charismatic Sydney-based entrepreneur is continuing a mission to help preserve tradition, particularly when it comes to food production and the world of natural ferments. Before founding Spiral Foods in 1979, Wilson says he didn’t have a solid career path. “I’d…

2019 Sentio ‘Beechworth’ Chardonnay, $58 Chris Catlow knocks it out of the park with his latest chardonnay. A slow build of stone fruit and delicious Granny Smith apples comes before a crescendo of minerality and vanilla oak. The wine is equal parts ethereal and powerful – new world Chardonnay at its best. sentiowines.com.au 2018 Domenica Roussanne Marsanne, $47.50 This wine is the ultimate winter white and a labour of love for winemaker Peter Graham. The fruit is farmed organically and carefully managed to balance acidity and minerality. Hints of ginger floral-spice meet pear and green almond with a mineral twist, courtesy of Beechworth’s slate. domenicawines.com.au 2018 Vignerons Schmölzer and Brown ‘Brunnen’ Pinot Noir, $45 Hailed as rising stars, Tessa Brown and Jeremy Schmölzer continue to prove themselves talented winemakers. Their…

Also known as potstickers, these pleated, crisp-bottom dumplings are originally a Chinese creation. However, they’ve become a venerated dish in Japan. The difference between Japanese gyoza and Chinese jiaozi lies in the garlic – gyoza contain a richer, garlic-infused flavour, along with a more finely chopped filling of minced pork, cabbage and nira (garlic chives). Their wrappers are also much thinner than the Chinese counterpart. Gyoza parties are popular in Japan, where guests fill and fold wrappers together. This recipe from Sydney’s Nakano Darling restaurant makes 50 gyoza, so go ahead and throw a party. Quick gyoza sauce Combine equal parts soy sauce and rice vinegar in a dipping bowl. For extra flavour, add sesame oil, finely grated ginger and garlic to taste. Step by step 1 For lace mixture,…

Australia, one can confidently say, is crushing hard on Japanese food. From exclusive, seemingly impossible-to-book omakase restaurants such as Minamishima in Melbourne or Sushi E in Sydney, to regional styles of ramen and Hokkaido baked cheese tarts, Australia’s Japanese dining options deliver across the board. While this diversity is impressive, even more remarkable is how quickly Japanese food has established a foothold in this country. Food historians believe Australia’s first Japanese restaurant was not a restaurant, but rather the Sukiyaki Room pop-up operated by Chieko Yamasaki in 1957, inside Dungowan Restaurant in Sydney’s Martin Place. The following year, she moved the restaurant to Kings Cross and, in 1961, rebadged Sukiyaki Room as Sukiyaki House. Other establishments began opening throughout Australia with operations such as Brisbane’s Little Tokyo (1966), Melbourne’s Sukiyaki…

“When I repair people’s things I get really emotional, it brings us together.” Often inanimate objects become sentimental fixtures in our home. Whether it’s the fragile souvenir that reminds you of your first holiday or the mug you were gifted on your birthday, we form emotional attachments to the things that anchor our every day. It’s also the reason why we’re so upset when one of these cherished items accidentally smashes to pieces – it feels like a little bit of ourselves breaks too. One person on a mission to repair the things that bring us joy is designer-maker Yoko Kawada. Working out of her Marrickville studio, Kawada practices the art and philosophy of kintsugi. Dating back to the 14th century, kintsugi is the Japanese art of giving new life…

Pork donburi Shiro miso has a mild, delicate flavour and is easily adaptable. Its sweet taste makes it ideal for marinades and soups. SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS MARINATING, RESTING) Donburi is a classic Japanese comfort-food dish comprising a savoury topping on rice. Begin this recipe the day before. 250 ml (1 cup) light soy sauce 125 ml (½ cup) cooking sake 125 ml (½ cup) mirin 100 gm caster sugar 100 gm white miso 1 tbsp freshly grated wasabi or to taste, plus extra to serve (see note) 1 kg piece boneless pork belly, skin on, cut into 1cm-thick slices 2 tsp shichimi togarashi (see note) Steamed Japanese rice, mixed assorted Japanese pickles and purple baby shiso leaves, to serve 1 Place…

Yes, you’ll find exceptional ramen, sushi, yakitori and tea in Tokyo – but you can enjoy the world’s best pizza there, too. That’s how next-level the dining scene is in Japan’s capital. Its wood-fired slices outshine what you’ll find in Naples (just ask verified fans such as Momofuku’s David Chang, Fratelli Paradiso’s Gio Paradiso, Provenance’s Michael Ryan and Pizzeria Beddia’s Joe Beddia). Tokyo doesn’t just have the biggest haul of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, it has an unshakeable commitment to food: where else can you eat six different scoops of sesame ice-cream in one go (like at Gomaya Kuki) or find a kilometre-long strip dedicated purely to cooking utensils (like Kappabashi Street)? The city is also home to outstanding architecture, memorable galleries, blossom-filled parks and significant sites of worship.…

BRIGHT NEW DAY Mix and match cheerful colours and bold shapes for a dining space that is sure to get the conversation started. NATURAL COMFORT For a living area that’s both warm and welcoming, combine a neutral palette with tactile textures.…