Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

Fish Shop At this slick new seafood shop you can mop up butter, chilli and garlic with hunks of Iggy’s bread, in between bites of well-seasoned squid. Or pick up some grilled snapper with salsa verde and salad and head to Bondi’s grassy knoll to kick back and enjoy an autumnal sunset with beach views. 87 Glenayr Ave, Bondi Beach, NSW. Jordan Kretchmer, writer Fortitude Valley, Brisbane A quick weekend visit to the River City was just enough to whet my appetite and leave me plotting a return visit. Fortitude Valley’s James Street serves up Palm Springs vibes and some of the best eats in town, from Hellenika to sAme sAme. Book ahead and arrive hungry. Joanna Hunkin, editor Adelaide Central Market A trip to Adelaide isn’t complete without a…

1 Good Boy Chocolate Former Attica pastry chef Alessandro Luppolo started making bean-to-bar chocolates back in 2019. Now, he makes his very own schmick bars inspired by the city of Melbourne and native Australian ingredients, which come packaged in recycled paper made with cocoa husks. goodboychocolate.square.site 2 Bahen & Co This Margaret River chocolatier was founded by former vignerons Jacqui and Josh Bahen. Using restored vintage chocolate-making machinery and ethically sourced cocoa beans, the pair’s 13 bar-strong range offers interesting flavour combinations, such as chilli and salt, and raspberry and rose. bahenchocolate.com 3 Hey Tiger This sweet social enterprise aims to make a positive impact within the cocoa farming industry by directly supporting ethical farmers. The names – Glitter Kitten, Fairy Wings, Hello Officer – are just as playful as…

When wine lovers and drinkers start to get a little more involved in their wine journey, assumptions will inevitably occur; particularly ideas about a brand or style of wine, or specific regions. Often, those perceptions are the result of creative marketing – wineries, grape varietals and regions are packaged up with a story or theme that gives us, the consumer, something to wrap our minds around so that we connect, invest and ultimately want to purchase. But what if you want to change your story and the preconceived notions tied to it? It’s an experiment that Langhorne Creek, a historic wine region 70km south of Adelaide, is undertaking with Project 5255. With the exception of a few wineries, such as Bleasdale and Lake Breeze, Langhorne Creek is best known as…

Arras This floral, spice-forward drop could almost be mistaken for a traditional French Champagne. Produced in Tasmania, it’s an Australian classic. Brut Elite NV, $60 houseofarras.com.au Printhie A serious home-grown, single-vineyard sparkling produced in Orange, resulting in an elegant, complex flavour and rich, refined palate. Swift NV Cuvée, $40 printhiewines.com.au Levantine Hill A unique cool climate sparkling from Yarra Valley, hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed. It’s fresh, delicate and the perfect addition to this chic cocktail. 2013 Blanc de Blanc, $90 levantinehill.com.au…

Very rarely does anything deserve the word “iconic”. But Penfolds Grange is one of those rarities – it’s even heritage-listed. So Magill Estate Restaurant, looking out over the shiraz vineyard, has to be spectacular to avoid being a disappointment. Phew. From the view down those geometric rows to the city – just 15 minutes away – to the final petits fours, it is. There are two ever-changing menus: seven courses for $220 or three for $150. Optional wine matching might be a good idea if you’re intimidated by the wine list, which runs to 30 pages. The restaurant has a solid, masculine feel that is offset by the remarkable lighting – festive globes dangling everywhere. The fascinating architectural quirks, though, are just a backdrop to that magnificent view. Full-length windows…

There are two words to describe paella: crowd pleaser. The instantly recognisable dish is arguably one of Spain’s finest national treasures. The original recipe can be traced back to the early 1800s and Albufera, a lakeside region south of Valencia. Made with rabbit and snails, it was a creation that made the most of locally sourced ingredients that were common at the time. Now, it’s a much-loved staple in almost every Spanish household. Although recipes differ from region to region, they all have one thing in common: the paella pan. “That’s the emblematic thing about paella, it’s the pan itself,” says Frank Camorra, chef and owner of Melbourne’s MoVida restaurants. A symbol of good times, the paella has become a party favourite around the world and the perfect way to…

Some cafés chase Instagram trends, but Saha in Adelaide serves century-old dishes instead. “We wanted to bring our heritage into our cooking,” says Jinan Mehio, who runs the business with husband Abdoullah. These recipes have survived a lot, such as war in Lebanon and a devastating fire at Saha’s original location. They moved the café to a new site after the 2019 blaze, the fatteh, ful and manoushi remain as their grandparents’ grandparents made it: the chickpeas topped with yoghurt tahini, broad beans flavoured with garlic, lemon and olive oil and flatbreads seasoned with za’atar. Don’t treat the whole menu as an ancient text that can’t be changed, though: Mehio recalls their mothers “workshopping” dishes at the café’s start. “It was a bit like World War III some days –…

Crafting a restaurant identity is no easy task. But when inspiration is drawn directly from your family, childhood and cultural heritage, it is deeply personal too. Which is just part of what makes Sydney’s Ho Jiak restaurants so welcoming. After opening the first Ho Jiak in 2014 – a small 12-seat restaurant in Strathfield – chef Junda Khoo found the confidence to open a second, larger outpost in Haymarket. “That’s when Ho Jiak really developed its identity,” says Khoo. He decided the Haymarket outpost would pay homage to his amah – his grandmother – who taught him to cook and continued to school him until she passed away in late 2019, just weeks before he opened his third restaurant. “I always watched her cook and I learned a lot,” says…

As a child I was fascinated by TV cooking shows and would spend hours watching them with my sister. It didn’t was , or Middle Eastern – there we were, glued to the television set. And, whenever I got the chance, I would sit in the kitchen to watch my mother cook, regaling her with my made-up stories in the hopes of being allowed to stay there just a little bit longer. But it wasn’t until I left home for my university studies that my love for cooking turned to Syrian cuisine. I missed those flavours; I missed the hospitality of my parents’ home. So, in my attempts to stay connected to my home, my parents and my homeland, I started to prepare my favourite foods. It turned out that…

Rolex Tudor 2021 Rolex has released its new Tudor collection for 2021, including the classic 1926, now available with a pure white dial and soft leather strap. Understated and elegant, it’s the perfect gift for Mother’s Day. rolex.com Cobram Estate First Harvest Unlike wine, fresh is best when it comes to olive oil, which is why you should always buy Australian-pressed. First Harvest is the annual release of Cobram Estate’s best olives, cold pressed within four hours of picking and ready to serve, pronto. cobramestate.com.au Camilla and Marc Stay snug and support an excellent cause with Camilla and Marc’s new range of limited edition t-shirts and hoodies. 100 per cent of sale proceeds will go to the Ovarian Cancer Research Group. camillaandmarc.com Fino Vino Fino Seppeltsfield has long been one…

SYDNEY The newly opened A by Adina Sydney has launched in the centre of Sydney on Hunter Street. The premium apartment-style hotel has recruited respected local talent to lead the food and drink offerings, with executive chef Jane Strode, restaurateur Maurice Terzini, and the team behind Maybe Sammy all on board. While in Rushcutters Bay, the Vibe Hotel will host a pop-up series with Sam Young (ex-Lotus) and Michael Chiem (PS40). The Juicy Banana x PS40 feat. friends will see a selection of guest chefs create a luxe-but-affordable custom feast each Sunday in May. First up will be chef Graeme Hunt (ex-Chin Chin), followed by Grace Chen (ex-Poly) on Mother’s Day, Sunday May 9. VICTORIA Melbourne CBD’s newest precinct 80 Collins (home to Handpicked Cellar Door and Farmer’s Daughters) has…

Not many fruits ripen in May and June. The late summer-and-autumn bounty of deciduous fruits has finished, while the subtropical fruits of winter and spring have not yet come on. One plant that can still be carrying fruit at this time is the feijoa. The feijoa is a member of the myrtle family, which is prevalent in the southern hemisphere. In Australia it’s represented by eucalyptus, lilly pillies and bottlebrushes; in New Zealand by pãohutukawa and rãatãa; and in South America by guavas, including the feijoa. The feijoa is sometimes called the pineapple guava because of its resinous flavour. Their slightly odd taste and propensity to have a gritty texture have held them back from mainstream acceptance. It’s worth noting that the majority of familiar fruits have undergone significant domestication…

2019 Bremerton ‘Bâtonnage’ Chardonnay, $32 Made from a single vineyard selection of estate-grown fruit, this one is for classic chardonnay lovers. The wine adopts its name from the French term ‘bâtonnage’, referring to the winemaking process of stirring the yeast lees when the wine is in a barrel, giving the wine a plush mouthfeel that envelopes the senses in vanilla notes. bremerton.com.au 2020 Charlotte Dalton ‘Project 5255’ Fiano, $35 One of three wines created as part of Project 5255. Proclaimed by Dalton to ooze praline and honeysuckle notes, the palate on this wine is expressive and lush, with a texture that demands a cold bucket of prawns and hot chips as you watch the sun set over the ocean. charlottedaltonwines.com.au 2016 Bleasdale ‘Double Take’ Malbec, $79 If you’re ever going…

If someone were to ask you out for a Korean meal, chances are that visions of paper-thin slices of grilled meat and a medley of chilli-flecked side dishes would spring to mind. Probably less so a Moreton Bay bug bibimbap, which is what makes Jung Sung so intriguing. At this new contemporary Korean restaurant atop the Old Rum Store in Chippendale’s humming Kensington Street precinct, the popular one-bowl Korean wonder, which is traditionally made with humble ingredients, such as rice, vegetables and egg, comes deconstructed. And if there was ever a reason to break the rules, this is it. In place of a hot stone bowl are two rustic vessels – one is meticulously layered with puffed buckwheat, quinoa and diced soy-marinated Moreton Bay bug meat, while the other cradles…

Sooner or later, so they say, everything old is new again. Like Otto Brisbane – the Sunshine State incarnation of a Sydney favourite that shimmied into the River City back in 2015. But February saw the suave Italian decamp its inner-city abode for the former headquarters of Stokehouse Q, a more recent victim of the Covid-19 pandemic. And while the Arkhefielddesigned space wasn’t dreamt up with Otto in mind, you’d never know it – there’s no better fit for the fine diner than waterfront River Quay, especially considering the original is perched on Woolloomooloo’s Finger Wharf. More tables and less kitchen space mark the major changes for the new eatery so far, though menu movements are promised to follow soon. For now, expect the same polished Italian favourites made from…

The humble steamed pud is a dish forged from warmth and comfort. This marmalade version is made even more nostalgic by its aromatic, citrus-forward syrup of sticky marmalade. Slices of orange, which are served just on the verge of caramelised, drip with sweet syrup whilst creating a tart layer and soft, chewy texture. It’s a colourful, eye-catching centrepiece ideal for any dinner party or family celebration, and a confident crowd-pleaser for those with a sweet tooth. Serve as is or with a dollop of crème fraîche alongside. Citrus substitute You can substitute orange with any in-season citrus, such as mandarin, tangelo or blood orange. Step by step 1 Arrange half of the syrupy orange slices (see recipe, right) in base of a buttered 2-litre pudding basin, then pour in half…

Operating a restaurant within a heritage-listed building comes at a cost. Namely, the challenge of restoring, renovating and cooking under strict limitations. But according to Bentley’s Brent Savage, the historic spaces are well worth the cost and effort. “It’s an absolute privilege to go into these buildings on a daily basis,” he says. From booming banks and the glory days of print media, there are a number of Australian restaurants serving diners a glimpse of bygone eras; with original architecture and features adding historic charm to the overall dining experience. NSW BENTLEY In 1856, inquisitive readers gathered at The Herald Corner, where Pitt, O’Connell and Hunter Streets meet in the CBD, to pick up The Sydney Morning Herald straight off the presses housed in a grand new building. The Renaissance…

Chicken, leek and black garlic pithivier SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING) This classic French pie hails from the town of Pithiviers and is constructed with two discs of puff pastry and finished with a distinctive pattern. Begin this recipe the day before. 200 gm Desiree potato, peeled and chopped 190 ml pouring cream, warmed 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil 650 gm chicken thigh fillets, fat trimmed 50 gm butter, chopped 1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced 100 gm flat pancetta, trimmed, cut into lardons 2 black garlic cloves, finely chopped (see note) ¼ cup (loosely packed) tarragon leaves, finely chopped 160 ml (2/3 cup) dry white wine 55 gm plain flour 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock 60…

Traditions and customs that become stagnant or irrelevant get left behind, and we forget we ever had them. Heritage is the history we choose not to leave behind. This makes heritage as much about progress as it is about preservation. It also makes heritage a hell of a lot more fun to think about than the word might sound. Because heritage isn’t really about staid old traditions, or keeping things “as they were”. It’s not about idealising the past. Humans are fickle creatures with really bad memories. We only bother to preserve the bits of the past that are valuable and desirable to the present. Whether we’re talking about a hand-me-down family recipe for steak pie, an iconic hotel or the cultural identity of an entire nation, heritage is the…

A true Darwin local will tell you there are a number of laksa places you must visit – each being entirely personal and non-negotiable. But much like the number of laksa connoisseurs in Darwin, there is no definitive laksa. Communities have long mixed and matched ingredients, following seasonality and taste. From variants of curry laksa, Assam laksa or a combination of both, there’s something for every taste. So what to pick? Here are three of our favourites to try. Chok’s Place Jason Chin grew up in the institution that is Chok’s Place. From the days his mother ran the show – making early morning trips to Sunday’s Rapid Creek Market – to completing commercial cookery, he’s been at the helm of the Darwin Galleria hotspot for the last 13 years.…

I’m often a little stumped when people ask about my heritage. It’s not something I have any deep connection to. In my lifetime alone, my family has lived everywhere from Germany and Scotland to Hong Kong and New Zealand. My extended family stretches the globe from Vancouver to Melbourne. Technically, we are British – yet few of us identify as such. The closest I get to embracing my British heritage is enjoying the occasional Sunday at the pub. So I am especially grateful to those who are happy to share their stories and heritage, making my world a brighter, bolder, and frequently more delicious place. In this issue, we asked chef Junda Khoo to share his Malaysian heritage with us and create a family banquet inspired by his amah’s original…

RED HOT Vinden Wines has released a sparkly new drop, and it’s one you may not have seen before. Alicante Bouschet is one of few grapes with red flesh, as well as skins – the result of a cross between the Grenache and Petit Bouschet varieties. Grown on the red, loamy clay of Vinden Estate in the Hunter Valley, it’s lively and crisp, with a light fizz elevating the fruit’s bright, berry-forward notes. The sparkling wine is bottled in a prestige swing-top champenois glass, making it a breeze to pop and reseal. “This is all about fun, beautiful, affordable everyday drinking, not just for special occasions,” says Angus Vinden, owner and winemaker at Vinden Estate. Sparkling Alicante Bouschet, $35 for 750ml, vindenwines.com.au Take your long lunch to the next level…

I think I must have had a sixth sense that the world was going to get locked down, because I crammed a crazy amount of travel in the four years before Covid hit. I love travel – it forces you to be in the present. Everything is exciting: reading a bus route, finding a train station, or finding a good cup of tea. Everything is an adventure. There are quite a few places I want to go back to when I can. I did a film in Jordan and went across to Palestine and I really want to go back there. I love Mexico City, I reckon that’s my favourite city in the world. Galapagos Islands. Anywhere in South America. I’d like to go to Spain. I’ve been learning Spanish…

I met Clarence Slockee over ten years ago through my friend, local elder Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo. At the time, I had just discovered Australian native bush foods and reached out to the local First Nations community to better understand and learn about their culinary traditions and culture. Clarence’s innate care for country is palpable. He continues to teach me so much, and now I have the great privilege of collaborating with him every day at South Eveleigh. Clarence Slockee personifies what it means to have a “green thumb”. His love for the land was fostered from a young age, and has seen him flourish to become one of Australia’s most recognisable faces in the world of horticulture and gardening. As a child, when he wasn’t fishing or foraging for finger…

A hard-hitting concoction of Champagne and gin, the French 75, or Soixante Quinze, is the classiest of cocktails, with herbal notes and a tart citrus twist. Harry MacElhone, the legendary Scottish-born bartender responsible for making Harry’s New York Bar in Paris a cultural phenomenon, is said to have created the drink in the 1920s. The first printed recipe can be found in his drinks bible, Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails, where he calls for it to be served in a highball glass. Fuelled by booze, lemon and sugar, the effervescent elixir was said to bring such a kick that it was like being shelled by a Howitzer 75mm field gun, used by the French in World War I, hence its name. With appearances in silver screen classics, such as Casablanca…

VEGETARIAN GLUTEN FREE DAIRY FREE Minute steaks with Café de Paris potatoes SERVES 4 1 kg kipfler potatoes, scrubbed, halved 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 6 garlic cloves, sliced 8 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped 80 gm caperberries 1 tsp each mustard and curry powder 100 gm unsalted butter, chopped 4 Scotch fillet minute steaks (about 200gm each) 12 thyme sprigs Dijon mustard, to serve 1 Preheat oven to 240˚C. Place potatoes on a large oven tray. Pour 125ml boiling water over the potatoes then cover tray tightly with foil. Place in the oven and bake until just tender (20 minutes). 2 Combine olive oil, garlic, anchovies, caperberries, mustard and curry powder in a small bowl, spoon over potatoes, then gently crush and toss to coat. Roast until potatoes are golden…

There are some things in life you just know. Little tips, tricks and rituals absorbed from family members that have never been questioned; like the way you tie your shoes, or where to store the Vegemite (always cupboard). In the kitchen, those pearls of wisdom become ingrained, forming the bedrock of a cook’s foundations. From the basics, such as how to chop onions or adding salt to pasta water, through to more sophisticated and intricate behaviours tied to family and cultural heritage. For Parwana’s Durkhanai Ayubi, those nuggets of knowledge are steeped in Afghan tradition and passed down from her mother, while for Fico’s Federica Andrisani, they come from her Italian father. We speak to nine chefs about those life lessons and how they continue to influence them in the…

JULIAN HILLS CHEF-OWNER NAVI, MELBOURNE “I love ph and so does my wife Georgia, it’s part of the reason we moved back to Melbourne, and particularly to the west. A regular of ours is Ph Chú Th in Footscray, where the broth is always fragrant. My eldest daughter Eleanor gets so excited when we say we’re going there for dinner. They serve her a kid’s helping with scissors so you can cut up the noodles. When she was two we cut them up for her but now she’s four she cuts up her own and adds her desired sauces. The staff already know what the girls are going to eat before we say anything and they know that Eleanor wants the blue booster seat, not the red. Going there is…

When I started writing this book in late 2018, the world was a different place. But now we are at a turning point, in a moment of crisis and great opportunity. , me, are the joy and the connection and beauty of sharing a meal, I feel now it’s time to stress the changes we need to make. I want to make it clear that how we eat can actually help to shift the world we live in. Our food system has the single biggest impact on the climate. It affects every inch of our planet and every creature on it. If we want to help slow, and one day (hopefully) begin to reverse climate change, it is widely agreed that the most powerful thing we can do is eat…

The entrance hall of the Art Gallery of Ballarat is a riot of colour, the vast wall above its impressive timber and wrought-iron staircase salon hung with exuberant modern art that hums and pulses with energy. According to director Louise Tegart, who joined Australia’s oldest and largest gallery three years ago and revolutionised the way it displays its lauded collection, the entrance hang is a reaction to the gloom of lockdown. It also perfectly encapsulates what’s happening in Ballarat right now – a joyful, energetic and exciting collision of the old and the new. Victoria’s third largest city, a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, is having a moment. A new generation of creatives and entrepreneurs, supported by an enthusiastic council, have been colonising the marvellous Victorian streetscapes that define this gold…

Darwin’s iconic heat is perfectly paired with its signature dish: laksa. In many ways, the spicy wonder is emblematic of the city and all that it values: food, culture and community. As the meeting point between the influences of southeast Asia – laksa’s natural habitat – and Australia, the territory’s capital is nothing short of a flavour bomb when it comes to laksa. Locals love it, line up for it and, even in the Top End’s sweltering temperatures, always have room for another bowl. So much so, there’s an annual festival that celebrates all that is laksa, with 2020’s festival hosting nearly 40 stall holders. The further you tuck into it, the more you’ll understand the locals’ cult-like craving. The spicy noodle soup is a true love child – and…

MODERN FARMHOUSE For a country kitchen with a contemporary twist combine time-honoured designs with a pared-back colour palette. TAKE A SEAT Create a cosy place to relax and recline with statement chairs that are both stylish and comfortable.…