Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2021 i Gourmet Traveller

Tairua, New Zealand It’s officially been a year since I was last home in Aotearoa and there is nowhere I would rather be than looking down from the mighty maunga of Mount Paku in Tairua. The small beach town in the Coromandel Peninsula has been the backdrop to many happy summers. Joanna Hunkin, editor Etta, Melbourne Rosheen Kaul’s frozen take on traditional mignonette dressing will sway even the most ardent oyster minimalists with its red wine, shallot, thyme and pink peppercorn ways, a perfect icy, slightly spicy match with briny rock oysters. 60 Lygon St, Brunswick East, Vic Michael Harden, Vic state editor Deli’s Continental, Perth Perth’s heir apparent to the continental roll throne has hit 2021 running. Its latest effort to win us over? This vegetarian-friendly eggplant parmigiana beauty,…

NEW SOUTH WALES Byron Bay has welcomed another chic motel-turned-hotel makeover. The Sunseeker offers rooms and bungalows, plus a mineral pool, cabana bar and lush common areas. Owners David and Jessica Frid called upon Byron locals for the revamp. Julia Ashwood (who recently revitalised The Eltham Hotel) is behind the bold interiors, while Pete Windrim (ex-Supernatural Cellars) curated the bar’s drinks list. In Sydney, Accor has announced the opening of The Porter House Hotel is set for late 2021, taking over a 36-storey heritage building on Castlereagh Street. The 121-room boutique hotel will be part of the brand’s luxury MGallery collection. SOUTH AUSTRALIA Adelaide will welcome a new five-star hotel later this year when Accor’s Sofitel Adelaide opens on Currie Street in the CBD. The 250-room hotel will have four…

Having been a Fish Butchery customer since the beginning, I have witnessed Rebecca Lara’s journey from enthusiastic, young chef to taking on the top job as manager. It takes a special person to successfully steer the crew in Josh Niland’s avant-garde business, with its unrelenting focus on excellence. I was thrilled to hear of Bec’s promotion and true to her “can-do” style, she has seized the opportunity, showing natural leadership and enhancing each customer exchange with her trademark smile. When it comes to fresh thinking, Rebecca Lara is put to the test every single day. As the manager of Josh Niland’s Fish Butchery in Sydney, the 27-year-old chef is constantly looking for new and interesting ways to use each and every part of the fresh fish that arrive daily in…

Hanging Rock Macedon Brut LD Cuvée X, $115 For a sparkling whose base wine consists of 50 per cent reserve wine from 1998, it is astounding that this marvellous and complex drop doesn’t cost more. Less costly than most grower Champagne, it has layers of brioche and toasty notes. hangingrock.com.au 2019 Bindi Kostas Rind Chardonnay, $60 Michael Dhillon’s pick of his 2019 vintage, this wine comes from the vineyard block that sits on an eroded dam (where the lava flow stopped millions of years ago) that has the highest concentration of volcanic soils. The most approachable and drink early-style in the Bindi range. bindiwines.com.au 2019 Athletes of Wine Alto! Alto!! Rosso, $28 A bright red-fruited blend of Macedon Ranges pinot noir and malbec combined with King Valley merlot, that’s perfect…

Don’t be fooled by the name. Oaks Kitchen and Garden might sound like a thousand non-descript bistros anywhere in Australia, where you could expect a nice piece of fish, an unremarkable steak and something that includes granita for dessert. It’s none of these things. What you soon realise, when you bump down the muddy driveway, around 15 minutes south of Port Douglas, and park beneath the groves of foxtail palms, is that you’ve found yourself in a piece of wild paradise. And there’s not a neat little square of Atlantic salmon anywhere in sight. Co-owner and Lee Ho Fook alumnus Rachael Boon greets you as you walk towards the corrugated-roofed, open-air pavilion where lunch will be served. Stash your BYO bottles in the outdoor fridge and Boon, work boots on…

Spoiler alert: you’re going to enjoy yourself at Balthazar. Or at least you will if making reservations and à la carte dining is your idea of fun. In other words: all the things we used to do at restaurants before tasting menus and small plates (“the kitchen will send food as it’s ready”) took over the dining landscape. Not that dégustations and food-slinging wine bars are bad things, of course. But in an era where establishments often expect guests to fit into their system, finding operators that go the other way can feel novel. Restaurant-craft, however, is nothing new at Balthazar. Since opening in 1998, Balthazar’s clubby atmosphere and spirited Mod-Oz cooking has made it a go-to for business and recreational dining in the CBD. In the four years they’ve…

However daunting it may seem, buying a whole squid and cleaning it yourself is easy and economical. Look for one that’s extremely fresh or frozen solid – it should be shiny, slightly translucent and firm. There are many squid-fishing spots in Australia, so a fresh catch should be easy to find. If frozen, let it thaw completely in the fridge, then clean and use immediately. These cephalopods have a mild-tasting flesh that soaks up the flavours with which they’re cooked and, with little by-catch, they’re sustainable too. Step by step 1 Using a slight twisting motion, pull the head and tentacles firmly away from the body; most of the entrails will come out as well. 2 Pull out and discard the clear quill that runs down the inside of the…

Blood plum, burrata and watercress salad with toasted barley SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 25 MINS Choose plums that are ripe but still firm for this recipe. Peaches or nectarines would also work well. 1 tbsp olive oil 200 gm (1 cup) pearl barley 6 blood plums, cut into wedges 2 baby fennel, thinly shaved on a mandolin, fronds reserved 350 gm watercress, sprigs picked 1 golden shallot, thinly sliced on a mandolin 2 burrata, drained BASIL VINAIGRETTE 125 ml (1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve 2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice ½ cup basil leaves 1 Heat oil in a medium saucepan…

I look back at all that I’ve learned in my food career and I realise that, perhaps as with you, I have evolved and improved in technique, gained more confidence in what may once have been obscure to me and am now so comfortable in my simple approach that, while I’ll always be firmly rooted in the flavours of Iran and the Middle East, it’s impossible to stick a specific label on my approach. Over the years I’ve noticed the once-embraced “simplicity” of food and cookery has been somewhat sidelined in favour of complexity, modernity, technique and process, especially in haute cuisine and fine-dining restaurants. While this is all perfectly valid, I am and shall always remain the consummate home cook, favouring simplicity in ingredients, recipes and techniques, and yet…

If you enjoy long walks, hiking up hills and marvelling at nature, Lord Howe is your dream destination. The eight-hour return hike to the top of Mt Gower is considered one of the best day walks in the world. The island also offers world-class snorkelling, as well as other water sports, such as surfing and paddle-boarding. Fishing is also a popular activity, with public barbecues surrounding the island’s beaches, ready and waiting for you to cook your fresh catch. If, however, you prefer to lounge by a pool and dine in different restaurants every night, this is not the place for you. Dining options outside of your accommodation are limited to local clubs and just one all-day diner, Anchorage Restaurant.…

One of the first things you need to know about Canberra’s wineries is that most of them aren’t actually in Canberra. This cool climate wine region spreads over several clustered regions – Lake George, Murrumbateman, Yass and Hall to the north, Bungendore and Wamboin to the east, many of which blur seamlessly into New South Wales. But no one’s splitting hairs when the wine’s this good – particularly the region’s flagship riesling – the views stretch for years, and everyone has time for a chat, whichever side of the border you come from. Top tasting experiences “I made my first wine when I was nine,” says Stephanie Helm, head winemaker at The Vintner’s Daughter in Murrumbateman who is, as her winery’s name suggests, the daughter of one of the district’s…

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Deiji loungewear For the ultimate in cool comfort – morning, noon or night – you can’t go past this French linen lounge set from Deiji Studios. Equally perfect for mooching at home or sipping aperitivi poolside. deijistudios.com Mercedes E-Class Cabriolet Make the most of the remaining long summer days and hit the road in Mercedes’ coolest new ride, the E-Class Cabriolet. Top down, music up, what better way to hit the road and explore regional Australia? mercedes-benz.com.au Church Road Tom New Zealand remains off-limits to travellers for now but you can still treat yourself to a taste of the country’s best and savour a bottle of Church Road’s Tom collection, straight from the magnificent Hawke’s Bay. church-road.com Oliver James lilos Forget pink flamingos or rainbow unicorns, the only way to…

HIT REFRESH A sustainable wine store and bar, Adelaide Festival highlights, party bites, and the latest restaurant and hotel openings. THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND AUSTRALIA RESTAURANT NEWS SYDNEY Darlinghurst has welcomed Cafe Freda’s, taking over a sprawling corner spot near Taylor Square. It’s an evolution of the now-closed Freda’s in Chippendale, and while it will keep its party-starting roots, owner David Abram and his partner, artist Carla Uriarte have recruited chef Xinyi Lim to oversee a menu of thoughtful and shareable snacks. In Potts Point, Morgan McGlone (Belle’s Hot Chicken) is behind Sunday, a restaurant and bar that pays homage to the humble roast chicken. You’ll also find a signature sundae for dessert, care of Rivareno Gelato. The South Eveleigh precinct will soon be home to a…

You might think lettuce is a rather uninspiring topic of discussion. It’s easy to disregard lettuces as the most bland of all vegetables: the tasteless filler we resent paying for at restaurants; the warm, flaccid item which then-treasurer, Paul Keating, compared opposition leader John Hewson’s parliamentary performance to being flogged with. Yet lettuce has a long and fascinating association with humans. Lettuce was domesticated by the Egyptians by 3000 BC, probably for the oil that comes from its seeds, or as medicine. Ancient lettuces have milky sap, from which we derive our word ‘lettuce’, via the Latin word for milk, ‘lactus’. This bitter sap has narcotic qualities. Throughout most of its history lettuce was eaten to induce sleep. Egyptian lettuces looked nothing like ours. They grew a metre tall, with…

Curried egg burger with lime pickle SERVES 4 150 gm (½ cup) mayonnaise 1 tbsp lime pickle, chopped 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander, plus extra sprigs to serve 4 soft burger buns 8 eggs, lightly beaten 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream 2 tsp curry powder 2 tbsp chopped chives 30 gm butter 50 gm mixed lettuce leaves 1 carrot, shredded Lime wedges, to serve 1 Combine mayonnaise, pickle and coriander in a bowl then spread on both sides of buns. 2 Whisk eggs, cream and curry powder in a bowl then stir in chives and season to taste. Melt butter in a large non-stick frying pan over low-medium heat. Add egg mixture and cook, stirring occasionally, until egg is just set (2-3 minutes). 3 Spoon mixture onto buns then…

Anchovies These salty, slippery suckers will add an intense savoury note to any dressing or sandwich. “My favourite anchovies are Ortiz,” says Matteo Toffano. Ben Shemesh loves using them in aïoli and bagna càuda. “I like that they add not only a saltiness, but another level of flavour altogether,” he says. Butter “We use salted butter by Meander Valley Dairy,” says Shemesh. “It’s a very important ingredient on our Mere Catherine sandwich that’s just butter, brie and serrano ham on a baguette.” Citrus For a burst of fresh and fragrant acidity, you can’t go past citrus. “We’ve got different citruses for different uses,” says Palisa Anderson. Don’t be afraid to use the rind and zest, too. “Always use these at the end, as you don’t want to overcook the oils…

My 33-year-old friend Roxy recently had a romance with a 23-year-old man, who she calmly told: “The key to happiness in life, Louis, is low expectations.” I am not quite such a stone-cold fox but, after the year we’ve had, I can see the wisdom in keeping dreams simple… so that potentially, our expectations can be surpassed. I’d never suggest we settle for the mediocre, but many of my most memorable travel experiences have occurred when I showed up with low or no expectations. So, I’m dedicating this column to the simple, unsung things that regularly overdeliver on their promise. “I left this classic diner feeling like San Francisco had welcomed me with a hug and a kiss. I also felt pissed.” I’ll start with breakfast. The most humble meal…

Island House Lord Howe’s newest and most exclusive property is designed to share, offering a maximum occupancy for eight people, across two houses. Priced from $6600 per night, minimum five-night stay, including a fully stocked pantry, bar and access to private chef Kimie Uemoto, who will prepare meals to order. 92 Anderson Rd, (02) 6563 2228, islandhouse.com.au Capella Lodge Offering the best views on the island, Capella Lodge delivers instant escapism and first-rate dining, thanks to executive chef Cooper Dickson, who creates custom daily menus. Each of the resort’s suites comes with a private terrace overlooking the twin peaks of Mt Gower and Mt Lidgbird. For something extra special you can upgrade to the Catalina Suite or Makambo Loft, which both come with private plunge pools. Priced from $1700 per…

SAGE ADVICE Exercise your green thumb inside for a change with virescent furnishings, shapely curves and a dash of metallic. WHITE HOT Bring interest and warmth to a monochromatic room with natural textures and contrasting silhouettes.…

I didn’t need the chaos of 2020 to teach me that there’s pleasure to be found in life’s simplest things but it certainly proved a potent reminder. As we head into February, after yet another tumultuous summer, never have I craved the simplicity and stability of routine more. The humble joy of devising – and devouring – a freshly packed lunch in the park. The contentment that comes from plotting a week’s worth of simple and speedy weeknight dinners. After months of embracing the slow, I suspect we are all ready for life to speed up again; to be hustled out of the kitchen and back into the real world. Of course, that shouldn’t mean compromising on taste or quality – so this issue is dedicated to keeping things simple…

1 Seed and Sprout, crunch box Following 18 months of design development, this stainless-steel lunch box is plastic-free and has individual compartments to keep every element fresh and crunchy. It also comes with two small leak-proof pots, ideal for dressings, dips and other messy, tasty things. $89, seedsprout.com.au 2 Monbento, original This two-tiered receptacle has been inspired by the design of Japanese bento boxes. It’s airtight and will seal in the slipperiest of salads, soups or stir-fries. It’s also dishwasher- and microwave-safe, making it ideal for the shared office. $59.95, nourishedlife.com.au 3 Porter, lunch bowl This ceramic 1-litre lunch vessel is perfect for packing up leftovers or transporting picnic creations. Simply take off the lid and you’re ready to serve. Plus, it’s BPA-free. $69.95 until.com.au…

LIRAH Cabernet grand reserve Queensland-based vinegar producer Lirah has been in business for nearly 20 years and their expertise is evident in this nuanced bottle of red. Strong on the nose, it’s fuelled by warm notes of blackcurrant and cherry. Red pasta sauces and meat marinades will benefit from a solid dash. $26.65 for 750ml, twoprovidores.com.au MAISON RENOUX Aigre doux Michael Renoux brought his vinegar-making talents with him from Brittany to Melbourne in the early 1970s. Made from home-grown apples, this oaky French-style drop is infused with fennel seeds and star anise, offering a sweet-yet-sour, almost caramelised flavour. It’s a favourite at Sydney’s Fabbrica store. $20 for 375ml, ciaofabbrica.com LEONARDI Oro Nobile white balsamic This smooth, white balsamic is made from Trebbiano grapes and aged and acetified in oak barrels…

Garden Grown Just like its stylish bottle, this gin stands out from the crowd thanks to its delicate floral notes inspired by an Australian summer garden. $85 for 700ml gardengrowngin.com.au Dasher + Fisher Inspired by the crisp waters of the Tasman Sea, this Ocean Gin promises aromas of seaweed and ocean spray. Perfect for fresh summer drinking. $69 for 500ml southernwilddistillery.com Applewood The only distillery in Australia to be B Corp-certified (the gold standard in sustainability) this gin features notes of desert lime, wattleseed and peppermint gum leaf. $70 for 500ml applewooddistillery.com.au…

In our current world, a change is as good as a holiday. And while we may not be able to travel to the sun-drenched Mediterranean just yet, we can slip into our finest linen and slink down to D’Albora Marinas for a leisurely waterside lunch at Ormeggio at The Spit. Post-lockdown, the longstanding Italian fine-diner underwent renovations and resurfaced as a more laidback, “alla moda” version of itself. Less drab, more fab. No meat, all seafood. Inside, stuffy upholstered armchairs have made way for on-trend rattan and timber ones. Complementing them are vintage Turkish rugs, sheer curtains and a hint of brass. An impressive marble cocktail and gelato bar stretches down one side of the room; behind it, vases decorate a textured stucco wall. The updated space is fresh and…

Matteo Toffano King and Godfree, Melbourne As one of Melbourne’s oldest grocery stores, King and Godfree has been delivering Italian-accented lunches and supplies to Melburnians for more than 130 years. Head chef Matteo Toffano draws on his northern Italian heritage (he’s from Asiago in the Veneto region) and uses great Victorian produce to create memorable salads, classic panini and deli staples. Ben Shemesh Small’s Deli, Sydney Inspired by European delis and unrestricted by a single country of origin, Small’s Deli is a pint-sized operation in Potts Point with serious sambo and salad clout. Opening Small’s in March 2020, chef Ben Shemesh (ex-Dear Sainte Eloise) and his partner, designer Emily Van Loon, weathered the pandemic thanks to a creative menu and strong community focus. Palisa Anderson Boon Café, Sydney A flavour-packed…

What even is Australian food? Healthy, hip and possibly with a smashed avocado on top? It is true that since I opened Bills Darlinghurst in Sydney in 1993, a joyfully casual sort of Australian food has backpacked its way across the world, being welcomed wherever and bringing a touch of Sydney sunshine to restaurant countertops from New York to Tokyo, Rome to Seoul. This adoration all feels very new – Australia was long an underdog in global culinary rankings. When I was growing up, we went quietly unnoticed beyond our sandstone shores and isolating oceans. I imagine for anyone outside Australia who bothered to think about it, our cooking was generally considered to be like British food, only worse. However, because of some lucky stars and gratifying quirks of fate,…

Stay Halcyon House, Cabarita Beach…