Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2020 i Gourmet Traveller

ROAST VEGIE AND CHICKPEA SALAD Harissa is one of those hail Mary ingredients for me and when there’s not a lot to work with in the fridge, roasting pumpkin and eggplant in harissa before tossing through chickpeas is quick, easy and full of flavour. Topped with tahini yoghurt and goat’s cheese, its a go-to weeknight meal. LAURA JACOBS, ART DIRECTOR NONNA’S RICE-STUFFED CHICKEN When we first tasted this family recipe from Matteo Tine in the test kitchen, I was desperate to recreate it at home. The chicken is tender and full of flavour, but the crisp, golden rice balls are absolute magic. I will be cooking this on repeat for years to come. If you missed it in the April issue, find it on our website now. JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR…

You’ve got mochi-rice risotto on your menu. What inspired this? The idea came when I was working at Florilège in Tokyo. Glutinous mochi rice has more umami than normal rice and has more texture. Usually mochi rice is steamed and then mashed up to make mochi, but we cooked it like normal rice and added bonito flakes, chicken and cured egg. In Japan, we have a dish called tamago kake gohan, which is white steamed rice and raw egg yolk with soy sauce. I don’t think many people will try raw egg with rice, so we made that more approachable by curing the egg. Your menu takes a root-to-leaf approach. Tell us about the homemade furikake seasoning that you made from leftovers at Kuro. We don’t think of it as…

First, flights to China stopped. Then airlines closed routes to other destinations. As the panic over the Covid-19 outbreak spread, politicians warned against overseas cruising, then international travel altogether, and eventually whole countries closed their borders and put their populations into lockdown. Sporting events and music festivals across the world were stopped and in Sydney, the Royal Easter Show and Vivid 2020 were the first big events cancelled. The panic was slow to start, but once it struck it was powerful and all consuming, striking all industries and every corner of the economy. But few more so than the travel industry. Several months into the global pandemic. The question remains simple: what effect will Covid-19 have on the travel industry, both globally and in Australia? And how long will it…

Subhana Barzaghi has been a friend and guide to me for over 20 years. Through her spiritual retreats and one-on-one teachings, Subhana has taught me so much about the importance of taking care of our mind, the importance of ritual and ceremony – in and around food – and how to cultivate quality and true happiness within our day-to-day. I have found these life skills to be invaluable in my hospitality career as a business owner, manager and chef, and especially now in this increasingly complicated world we find ourselves in. Subhana’s humility is palpable and powerful, and she is passionate about sharing her wisdom and knowledge with all. “By slowing down and being really present in your experience, it enhances all the senses.” Meditation, silent contemplation, mindful eating and…

With all its colourful components and perfectly presented toppings, sukiyaki might appear intimidating to the average cook. Yet this warming Japanese classic is remarkably simple, comprising vegetables, noodles and protein, all simmered in a broth packed with umami. Named after the term “sukimi”, which means sliced meat, the multi-layered dish can be cooked in two different ways. The Kanto-style of eastern Japan sees ingredients added to a bubbling broth, while the Kansai-style of western Japan requires the beef to be cooked in a heated pan first. Either way, making sukiyaki is a deeply therapeutic experience. BASE Sukiyaki commonly comprises mirin, soy sauce and sugar, with some recipes calling for dashi to create a broth. The Kanto method requires ingredients to be added one by one to a sukiyaki pan; the…

Japan’s lust for conformity might best be summarised by the proverb, “Deru kui wa utareru, or “The nail that sticks up gets hammered down” – a response to behaviour that goes against the grain. Although most foreigners’ faux pas will be ignored politely to avoid causing embarrassment, the sentiment is worth bearing in mind if you’d prefer not to risk insulting your host. Without rules and order, meticulously systematic Japan would fall into chaos, inevitably leading to the erosion of its culture and the unparalleled respect for seniority and experience which sustain it. But no pressure. When in doubt, simply observe your surroundings. If, for example, locals are noticeably quiet then follow their cue. THE BASICS Arriving on time for reservations or appointments is of utmost importance. If you’re prone…

You don’t even need to lift your chopsticks off the table to know Yoko Dining is an izakaya with a difference. Owner Jonathan Barthelmess’s background is Greek-Australian. Head chef, Kitak Lee, is Korean. And those sun-drenched river and Story Bridge views? Distinctly Brisbane. But then, Yoko was never intended to be a flatpack rehash of some notional Tokyo muse. It’s something far fresher. And more fun. Yoko sits alongside Greca, Barthelmess’s breezy ode to the Greek taverna, which opened at Howard Smith Wharves in 2019. It’s been a big couple of years for the chef-restaurateur, who also has Sydney’s Cho Cho San, The Apollo and its sister restaurant in Ginza. But it’s been smoother sailing up north this time around. “It’s such a different experience opening a second restaurant –…

Spring The spring ingredient that captures the Japanese imagination more than any other is takenoko, giant edible bamboo shoots that grow all over Japan and are at their most tender as the snow melts from the mountains and brings new life. Many country people will head into the forest first thing in the morning to dig up the pyramid-shaped shoots to make into dishes such as takenoko gohan, where they’re simply boiled and served with rice, sake, mirin and soy sauce. The Japanese love to celebrate the blossoming of colourful flowers during every month of the year; the chrysanthemums of late autumn and the shaga, or wild fringed irises, of spring are just two. But the flowers that lure most tourists are of course the sakura, radiant pink cherry blossoms,…

French 75 Keep track of the days and make Friday an event with a celebratory cocktail – and there is none simpler or more glamorous than the classic French 75. I use Plymouth Gin and top with Mumm. Joanna Hunkin, editor The Jean Claude Pandan via PS40 @ps40bar When I found out one of my favourite bars was sending out their off-kilter cocktails, I signed up straight away. Delivered with a smile, and sipped with an even bigger one. Jordan Kretchmer, writer 2017 Las Jaras Rosé via DRNKS @_drnks_ The Sydney-based natural-wine gurus have curated a series of isolation packs. The High Hopes pack features this lush Californian rosé. Georgie Meredith, writer & editorial coordinator…

Need to escape from reality for a little bit? Tourism Australia’s collection of 360-degree videos will digitally decamp you to some of the country’s most beautiful locations – kayak through the Katherine Gorge in the Northern Territory, snorkel along the Great Barrier Reef, or explore Kangaroo Island. youtube.com/user/australia QUICK FLICKS Run out of TV to watch while self-isolating? Quibi is the new mobile-only platform built entirely around snappy, minutes-long shows (Quibi is short for “quick bites”). Its food shows feature LA chef Evan Funke breaking down Italian staples on Shape of Pasta and comedian Andy Samberg hosting Biggest Little Cook-Off, where contestants battle to make tiny food, such as coin-sized pasta dishes. quibi.com Quick-thinking bars are upgrading your at-home happy hour. Enjoy tipples from Sydney’s Continental Deli, Melbourne’s Black Pearl…

1 Kitchen Aid’s Kyoto Glow Stand Mixer If you can’t get dressed up to go out, then at least your kitchen bench can. Kitchen Aid’s new Kyoto Glow is the new colourway for this prized kitchen staple. The soft yellow-green hue will brighten any benchtop, while being the perfect tool to encourage isolation baking or pasta making. Known for it’s easy-to-use dough hook, this benchtop mixer is sure to add some fun to your quarantine cooking routine. $749, kitchenaid.com.au 2 Le Creuset’s Fusion Noodle Bowl The French kitchenware brand has released a swish new range dubbed Zen Kitchen, which takes inspiration from the eating rituals and design trends of Japan. A standout piece from the collection is the new ramen-style bowl – it’s made from thick stoneware, making it perfect…

You grew up in rural Victoria. What’s a strong food memory from that time? I remember my parents cooking sukiyaki in our home as a winter treat for friends. The friends had never had anything like it. We’d eat on the floor with chopsticks in front of an open fire: everyone’s faces would go red from the heat and all the adults would drink way too much. Your family would travel 350 kilometres to visit the nearest Asian grocer. What do you remember from those shopping trips? Japanese ingredients were so precious to us because they were so hard to get! My mum, Yoshiko, loved adzuki beans: they’re used in desserts and are somewhat baffling, but her passion for them was contagious. Even now that all those ingredients are much…

Yukino Ochiai is talking about umami, the fifth basic taste after sweet, sour, salty and bitter. She describes umami as the “double-bass” of the flavour orchestra: a deep sense of savoury deliciousness on the tongue. But she’s not talking about the food of Japan. She’s talking about the experience of drinking sake made using age-old brewing methods. Ochiai is a Sydney-based sake importer and international sake judge. In 2017, she was named Australia’s first female Sake Samurai, the highest honour bestowed by the Japan Sake Brewers Association, for her work in sake education and promotion. The perfect person, then, to share insights into the small number of sakes still made in Japan using the traditional kimoto and yamahai processes of creating a starter culture. “Chefs love kimoto and yamahai,” says…

Soba noodle soup SERVES 4 Noodle soups are super-satisfying when the weather cools. Buckwheat noodles add plenty of texture and earthy flavour, while restorative dashi broth brings umami-packed comfort. 4 eggs 360 gm dried soba noodles 750 ml (3 cups) dashi (see note) 175 gm broccolini, trimmed into florets and stalks thinly sliced, to serve 1-2 tsp sesame oil Fried tofu or silken-pressed (momen) tofu, cut into cubes, to serve Garlic chives or chives, thinly sliced, to serve Light soy sauce, to taste 20 ml cooking sake Togarashi (see note), to serve 1 Cook eggs in a saucepan of simmering water over medium-high heat until soft-boiled (6-7 minutes). Drain and refresh under cold water, then peel and cut into halves. 2 Cook noodles in a large saucepan of boiling water…

Autumn is here once again. You may sigh, rejoice or open a bottle. With the change of weather, supper takes on a more significant role. We are suddenly hungry. Once the nights draw in, I am no longer satisfied by plates of milky burrata and slices of sweet, apricot-fleshed melon. No more am I content with a bowl of couscous with peaches, soft cheese and herbs for dinner. What I crave now is food that is both cosseting and warming, substantial and deeply satisfying. And yet, I still find my diet is heavily plant-based with less emphasis on meat. It is simply the way it has progressed over the years and shows little sign of abating. At the start of the longest half of the year, our appetite is pricked…

Raised in his family’s Chinese restaurant, Hideki Ii was exposed to cooking from an early age, but it wasn’t until he met legendary Australian chef Tetsuya Wakuda that his career took off. After relocating to Sydney to become senior sous chef at Tetsuya’s, Ii went to New York to work for the UN before returning home and opening Shirosaka, a Michelin-starred modern kaiseki in Tokyo’s Akasaka neighbourhood. This is where you’ll find the chef – and certified sommelier – eating and drinking when he’s off the clock. In the mood for pasta Before opening Shirosaka, I worked at Union Square Tokyo for six months with Michael Romano who was the chef at the original Union Square Cafe in New York. The restaurant does burgers, pasta and steaks. Over the past…

SYDNEY Chefs are tapping into our love of simple comfort food at this time: Peppe’s in Bondi is doing a great-value 1kg vegan lasagne (delivery or pick-up); Ragazzi has turned its CBD laneway location into a drive-through, offering fresh-pasta packs with duck ragù or puttanesca sauce; and Stanmore’s Sixpenny is turning its fine-dining sensibilities towards dishes such as moussaka, and also has its own general store with baked goods and produce. Down the road in Enmore, Stanbuli is delivering, so you can set up your own mezze spread at home. The Fish Butchery team are also prepping meal kits. One night you could be eating semolina spaghetti (made by Ciccia Bella’s Mitch Orr) with XO vongole, the next evening tiger prawn and ocean-trout sausage jambalaya. MELBOURNE Experience fine dining at…

YAMATO: RAW Family-owned business Yamato has been producing soy sauce in the city of Kanazawa for over 100 years. Their natural shoyu is light and well balanced with subtle hints of miso and a soft, spirituous tang – the result of a 14-month aging process. $16.50 for 180ml, simonjohnson.com SHODA: JUKUSE Shoda is one of the oldest manufacturers of shoyu in Japan, and their expertise is evident in this dark, viscous soy sauce. There is a heady amount of salt here with a briny bite and slight piquant aftertaste. It’s a solid flavour enhancer and best put to work in a glaze, braise or marinade. $28 for 360ml, junpacific.com/tokyomart SPIRAL FOODS: ORGANIC Endorsed by Kylie Kwong herself, this organic, Australian-made soy sauce should be a staple in any household pantry.…

FINE BLEND NV Nadeson Collis Inception, Drumborg, $45 Brilliant sparkling wine made using chardonnay and pinot from the 2017 harvest, blended with 15-year-old solera, then aged on lees for 15 months. lethbridgewines.com JUICY PURPLE 2019 Serafino Bellissimo Montepulciano, McLaren Vale, $25 This vibrant young wine really fulfils the promise of the montepulciano grape in Australia. Full of black-cherry fruit, it’s balanced by snappy tannins. serafinowines.com.au FRESH & FLORAL 2017 Bird in Hand Ted Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, $150 Outstanding expression of Hills chardonnay, with refined citrus floral aromatics and great freshness, but still with plenty of generosity and layers of satisfaction. birdinhand.com.au LIMITED EDITION NV Crittenden Savagnin Macvin, Mornington Peninsula, $90 Exquisite, complex and nutty blend of flor-aged savagnin, fortifying spirit and fresh grape juice. The next limited release in June…

Dashi is the building block for many Japanese dishes, and it’s surprisingly simple to make, requiring only a few ingredients. “It adds complexity to so many different dishes,” says Michael Ryan, owner and chef of Provenance in Beechworth, Victoria. Dashi is used as the backbone for miso soup, noodle-soup dishes like udon, soba and ramen, and chawanmushi. “It’s not a flavour on its own, but an enhancer,” he says. The simmering liquid unlocks the umami flavours of kombu, and you can also add other dried ingredients. “Once you add bonito, it’s a really defining and unique aroma of Japanese cuisine.” Using dashi for chawanmushi Chawan translates to “teacup” and mushi is “steamed”, which is why this delicate savoury custard is often served in a small teacup (the Japanese variety without…

When ex-Noma chef Thomas Frebel bites into an ingredient pulled straight from the earth – perhaps it’s the wild mountain vegetable amadokoro, with its asparagus-like stems, or the Japanese wild kiwi, which he says tastes like a mix of cultivated kiwi, lychee, mangosteen and even the fruit of the monstera plant – he’s hit by two sensations almost simultaneously. “First you’re enjoying the flavour and that moment of discovery,” he says. “And then you come to the quick realisation that our guests will never experience this, unless we bring them here.” It’s an inescapable fact that the moment you take an ingredient from its natural environment, you are holding it at its fragile peak. Deterioration is the only possible next step. “That razor clam you pull from the water or…

When Chaco Bar first opened as a hole-in-the-wall yakitori spot in Sydney’s Darlinghurst in 2014, owner Keita Abe couldn’t have imagined its success and evolution. Fast-forward to 2020, and the original Darlinghurst site is now Chaco Ramen, where the Japanese noodle soup takes centrestage. Then there is the new Chaco Bar, reimagined in a moody, elongated site in the neighbouring suburb of Potts Point, where diners can take a seat at the long communal timber tables, or head up the back to be close to the fiery yakitori action. “We want the feel of an authentic Japanese restaurant, but we always want to push the boundaries,” says general manager Kei Tokiwa. “One foot in the traditional world, one foot pushing further.” Both restaurants take inspiration from yatai, a traditional, informal…