Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 i Gourmet Traveller

CABBAGE PANCAKE WITH BROCCOLI, GOAT’S CHEESE AND SOFT EGG, Sourced There are comforting, robustly flavoured brunch dishes – and then there’s Sourced’s okonomiyaki-style cabbage pancake. It’s topped with an overlay of crisp caramelised broccoli florets and tangy goat’s cheese, with a soft-poached egg concealed at its centre. The answer when too many greens aren’t quite enough. 11 Florence St, Teneriffe, Qld. FIONA DONNELLY, QUEENSLAND EDITOR KINOKO SPAGHETTI, Pasta Wafu At this kiosk, the kinoko spaghetti is heavily accessorised with Japanese flavours. Chefs Kerby Craig and Hamish Ingham pan-roast mushrooms in a miso butter, followed by a koji sauce, then top the dish with an onsen egg and a good shake of furikake. The Exchange, Darling Square, 1 Little Pier St, Haymarket, NSW. LEE TRAN LAM, NEWS EDITOR CRAB TOAST, Le…

When you ran Acme, you described it as #notanitalianrestaurant and the pasta was inspired by Chinatown. Will Ciccia Bella’s menu have Asian influences, too? Ciccia Bella will certainly be an Italian restaurant. I’ll be taking a lot of inspiration from southern Italy and those beachside vibes. We want to keep the food light and singing, remembering that we’re in Bondi and have lots of loyal regulars to keep happy. If I do sneak a little dashi in here and there, we won’t be advertising it. What will be on Ciccia Bella’s menu? I’ve got a spreadsheet of about 100 ideas for the menu. I’m playing with turning Acme’s baloney sandwich into a fried calzone. And we’d like to utilise the woodfired oven more and have fun with the pizza. Is…

What’s something memorable you ate growing up in Melbourne? My mother left the outer shell of the broad bean on. I grew up eating them hard and hairy. Only very recently have I discovered that if you double-shell them, they’re the most magnificent food in the world. You recently landed a role in an upcoming American show. What did you drink to celebrate? My favourite tequila, Clase Azul Reposado, which Russell Crowe got me hooked on. I had everyone do tequila my style: on a very large rock, double shot with a big squeeze of lime and no mixer. What’s a budget meal that’s gotten you through lean times? I was vegetarian at my poorest. There were years of beans, rice and lentils – years where I could never imagine…

Marinara This is a rich tomato sauce made with tomato pulp, garlic and oregano. Some purists may disagree here, but we add sautéed onion for extra flavour. Chop ½ small onion into very fine dice and fry in a few tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil over low heat, stirring, until very tender. Add a couple of finely minced garlic cloves and stir until fragrant, then add about 400gm tomato pulp (you can use fresh tomatoes in season, but we also love Mutti Polpa finely chopped tomatoes). Simmer the sauce until it is thickened to your liking, then throw in some finely chopped oregano and season to taste. This sauce is great with spaghetti and grated parmesan, but you can also add anchovy fillets for good measure. Capers, olives, chilli and…

Goat’s cheese and potato salad SERVES 4 A bright, tangy spin on a favourite, with creaminess from goat’s cheese and crunch from roasted almonds. A light meal in its own right, or perfect with pan-fried chicken and a squeeze of lemon. 1 kg kipfler potatoes, scrubbed 100 gm ash-rolled goat’s cheese, coarsely torn ½ (firmly packed) cup watercress 11/2 (firmly packed) snow pea shoots (or extra watercress) 80 gm (1/2 cup) roasted almonds, coarsely chopped HONEY-MUSTARD DRESSING 80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp honey 80 ml (1/3 cup) lemon juice 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 Place potatoes in a large saucepan of cold, salted water and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until tender when pierced with a…

As the late Kingsley Amis – Martin’s dad – once declared, “Drink is a contentious subject.” Take the world of cocktails, ever torn by unresolved controversies that may appear minor to the outsider but are of paramount importance to serious drinkers. “I have seen grown men close to blows over whether you should or should not bruise the mint in a Mint Julep.” Amis speaking again. There are the classicists, such as British food and wine writer and broadcaster Matthew Fort, who says, “Am I alone in finding that the modern habit of tinkering around with classic cocktails is pernicious? Heaven knows, it’s hard enough to find the original made properly before you start messing about. Classics are classics for a very good reason. Leave well alone.” And then there…

Vittoria Coffee is proud once again to be the presenting partner of the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards. Now in our 61st year of roasting arabica coffee, we have been a long supporter of the Australian culinary industry and it gives us great pride to be associated with some of the country’s most prestigious restaurants. As pioneers of espresso coffee in Australia we salute the ongoing drive, innovation and enthusiasm shared by the tenacious chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers and waitstaff who are the driving force of our great hospitality industry. Congratulations to all the winners in this year’s awards; we wish you every continued success. Yours sincerely,…

New South Wales Muse Cnr. Hermitage & Deasys Roads, Pokolbin, (02) 4998 7899 Set in Hungerford Hill Winery, Muse shows off seasonal Hunter Valley ingredients. Chefs Troy Rhoades-Brown and Mitchell Beswick make magic with produce-led dishes. Margan 1238 Milbrodale Rd, Broke, (02) 6579 1372 Set in 100 hectares of vineyards, Margan, focuses on nose-to-tail food and home-grown wines, with chef Thomas Boyd crafting menus around the garden and orchard. South Australia Lot 100 68 Chambers Rd, Hay Valley, (08) 7077 2888. The sprawling farm-based home of The Hills Cider Company, Adelaide Hills Distillery and Mismatch Brewing also has a large dining pavilion overlooking paddocks and orchards. The kitchen piques Italian-inspired dishes with subtle use of native ingredients. The Salopian Inn Cnr Main and McMurtrie rds, McLaren Vale, (08) 83238769 Karena…

Adelaide & SA Sunny’s Pizza, Sunny’s Pizza, 17 Solomon St, Adelaide, Laneway hangout with unbound energy, that’s serious about Napoli-style pizza. What to order: #05 Pizza. Lost in a Forest, 1203 Greenhill Rd, Uraidla, (08) 8390 3444 Old stone church transformed into a carefree alt-wine lounge and pizza den. What to order: Banh mi pizza. Brisbane Tartufo 1000 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3852 1500 Full-service Neapolitan ristorante with its own woodfired oven, turning out perfect red and white sauce pizze What to order: The spicy diavola. Beccofino/Julius beccofino.com.au; juliuspizzeria.com.au A pair of family-friendly siblings offering pared-back pizza. What to order: At Beccofino, a Coppa; at Julius, the Marinara Deluxe. Hobart Local 52 Maroni Rd, Berriedale, (03) 62493573 Hand-stretched dough thrown into a woodfire oven, and fun-flavoured sundaes. What to…

You could measure Adam Liston’s childhood by the number of visits he made to his local chicken shop in Goodwood, Adelaide. His family would make weekly pilgrimages for the grilled chicken and chips (which they’d eat at home, with the mandatory salad or steamed vegies, to maintain the idea they were actually being healthy). Decades later, the Shobosho chef still regularly visits the same takeaway joint – and while the company has changed, the charcoal chicken hasn’t. “I take my daughter religiously every week,” he says, “and we have the same thing.” Chips and gravy for her, yiros and chicken for him. It’s an experience he wants to recreate – albeit on a more ambitious scale – at JoyBird in Hyde Park, his new 110-seat restaurant with Simon Kardachi (his…

CO’M GÁ HÔI AN Hoi An chicken rice SERVES 4 “This dish is similar to Chinese-style Hainanese chicken rice, but the result is closer to a salad,” says Jerry Mai. “I love it.” 1 chicken (about 1.8kg), at room temperature 1 tbsp ground turmeric 400 gm (2 cups) jasmine rice 50 gm (1/4 cup) white glutinous rice (see note) Nuoc mam dipping sauce (see recipe p145), to serve PAPAYA SALAD 200 gm shredded green papaya 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 bunch Vietnamese mint, leaves picked 100 gm pickled carrot and daikon (see recipe p145) 1 Rinse chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, then add chicken, turmeric and 1 tbsp sea salt, and poach, reducing heat if necessary, for 15…

Getting there Qantas, Delta and United fly one stop between Austin and Sydney, and select Australian capitals. Top ’cue 2M Smokehouse Barbacoa on the first Sunday of the month. 2731 S. WW White Rd, San Antonio, +1 210 885 9352, 2msmokehouse.com Franklin Barbecue Skip the line: order online, picnic elsewhere. 900 E. 11th St, Austin, +1 512 653 1187, franklinbbq.com The Granary ’Cue & Brew Get the pastrami. 602 Avenue A, San Antonio, +1 210 228 0124, thegranarysa.com La Barbecue LeAnn Mueller is barbecue royalty. Her urban food-truck brisket in Austin is badass. 2027 E. Cesar Chavez St, Austin, +1 512 605 9696, labarbecue.com Micklethwait Craft Meats Order Frito pie and pulled lamb. And all the sides. All of them. 1309 Rosewood Ave, Austin, +1 512 791 5961, craftmeatsaustin.com Snow’s…

The city was late to the craft cocktail party but recent bar openings signal good times ahead. Hidden amid Old Montreal’s tourist traps, behind a door in a laneway, The Coldroom (above; thecoldroommtl.com) reinterprets classic cocktails in a 19th-century subterranean vault. Street art marks the entrance to Atwater Cocktail Club (atwatercocktailclub.com) in the Saint-Henri neighbourhood. This den of smoke and mirrors – rum-and-berry Smoke Show is a signature drink – sources fresh ingredients from neighbouring Atwater Market.…

Aeria Country Floors (02) 9326 2444, aeria.com.au Bar Geek bargeek.com.au The Bay Tree (02) 9328 1101, thebaytree.com.au Cone 11 Ceramics cone11.com.au Dinosaur Designs (02) 9698 3500, dinosaurdesigns.com.au Dulux dulux.com.au Elph Store (02) 9332 2689, elphstore.com The Essential Ingredient (02) 9555 8300, theessentialingredient.com.au Francalia (02) 9948 4977, francalia.com.au Hub Furniture hubfurniture.com.au Peter’s of Kensington petersofkensington.com.au Table Manners table-manners.com.au Teranova teranova.com.au Hale Mercantile Co (03) 9939 1267, halemercantileco.com Harry the Hirer harrythehirer.com.au Hay (02) 9538 0855, hayshop.com.au In Bed (02) 9358 4245, inbedstore.com Lee Matthews (02) 9997 3787, leemathews.com.au Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com Net-a-Porter net-a-porter.com Ondene (02) 9362 1734, ondene.com Riedel (02) 9966 0033, riedelglass.com.au Safari Living (03) 9510 4500, safariliving.com Venroy venroy.com.au Wonki Ware wonkiware.com.au This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed…

Bokenäs, Sweden; Harriet Davidson, writer & editorial coordinator A week on Sweden’s west coast saw not much more than foraging for berries, reading on sun-drenched cliffs and eating shrimp sandwiches. Bliss. @harriet.olive Vomo Island, Fiji; Yvonne C Lam, digital editor This luxe resort has all the makings of a tropical holiday: coconuts, snorkelling, sunsets on the beach. I made every second count. @blurry.food National Gallery of Australia, Canberra; Laura Jacobs, art director Haystacks, waterlilies and Parisian street scenes – the curation of the Monet: Impression Sunrise exhibition is concise but impressive, and worth the road trip to the nation’s capital. @laurajanejacobs…

Shawarma. Gyros. Souva. Kebabs. They’re the go-to food for anyone looking for hangover-soothing sustenance and these spit-roasted-meat-plus-bread meals have also been inspiring top chefs. David Chang has added gochujang-spiced pork shoulder and yakitori-glazed chicken on spits at Bang Bar in New York, while René Redzepi’s celeriac shawarma (the showpiece of Noma’s Plant Kingdom menu last year) recently re-appeared in taco form at Copenhagen’s Hija de Sanchez. Locally, Adam Liston has opened JoyBird in Adelaide (see our feature on p114), a tribute to the neighbourhood chicken shop featuring char siu chickens stacked and cooked on a vertical spit, while Smith & Daughters’ Shannon Martinez grilled 80 kilograms of vegan souva for Melbourne’s Laneway Festival in February – and repeated the feat on a smaller scale at Sydney’s Cook For Syria event…

I was in my mid-20s before I travelled overseas. After six years of study, my wanderlust was so pent-up I took off and didn’t look back. My whole life since then has been about travel, really. I’d like to know about responsible things like saving and investing, but I just pour it all into travel. When I started exploring the world, everywhere I went I’d find people who could understand me through skateboarding, TV, BMX. We shared a kind of language, a connection through globalisation and youth culture, that was profound and beautiful. I tried to learn Japanese, and my French is non-existent, but I have friends everywhere and the lack of a common language is no barrier to understanding. In terms of sociological theory, this idea of cultural convergence…

When Caitlyn Rees joined Mary’s Group earlier this year, the 2018 Gourmet Traveller Sommelier of the Year’s first job was to compile a killer wine list for the opening of Mary’s Underground, the brash, fun, foodie nightspot in The Basement, a former live music venue near Circular Quay in Sydney. The founders of the original Mary’s in Newtown have long been enthusiastic supporters of wines on the natural spectrum – organic, biodynamic, wild-fermented, minimal additions – and these are also the kind of wines that Rees likes to drink. So, she decided to limit the list at Underground to wines that met these criteria – and put a statement outlining her philosophy on the first page of the list. It’s great to see a sommelier go out on a limb…

On paper, it sounds contrived: a Spanish-themed food court run by three celebrity chefs in an American mall. But The Shops and Restaurants at Hudson Yards is no ordinary mall, and Mercado Little Spain is much more than a standard shopping-centre dining precinct. “What José Andrés and the Adrià brothers have done at Mercado Little Spain is really remarkable,” The New York Times food critic Pete Wells told me soon after my first visit to Hudson Yards. “There’s never been anything like it for Spanish food.” New York has never seen anything quite like Hudson Yards, either. Work started seven years ago on the US$25-billion complex atop a railway depot, sandwiched between Chelsea and Hell’s Kitchen on Manhattan’s West Side. Early features include the mall, a 101-storey office tower, two…

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR Attica Melbourne Attica has been evolving since it opened more than a decade ago but since Ben Shewry’s buy-out of his business partners a few years back, the evolution has become bolder and more experimental. From what’s on the plate to the restaurant’s culture, an always-interesting restaurant is morphing into something even more intriguing. And the inspiration behind the changes doesn’t always come from expected sources. Shewry, a diehard music fan and sometime DJ, cites ’80s punk band Fugazi as an influence on how he approaches Attica. “Fugazi is a band that’s all about self-publishing, self-creating, self-funding and doing everything themselves,” he says. “They have full independence, full creative control and kind of give the finger to the establishment, while on the other side, they’re absolutely…

Adelaide MAYBE MAE 15 Peel St, Adelaide The platonic ideal of the swanky subterranean speakeasy. What to order: The Bill Murray – a winning blend of Japanese whisky, apricot brandy, citrus and mint. PALOMA BAR AND PANTRY 20 Peel St, Adelaide This worthy newcomer spruiks Med-inspired drinks, conservas and smallgoods in elegant, sleek surrounds. What to order: The namesake Paloma. PINK MOON SALOON 21 Leigh St, Adelaide Chalet meets laneway at this endlessly charming institution with craft brews, on-trend wines and creative cocktails. What to order: Gin and juice, spiked with cardamom and celery. THE TASTING ROOM AT EAST END CELLARS 23-25 Vardon Ave, Adelaide The whole bottle shop is your list. Browse carefully, pick a bottle, pay a mere $15 corkage and enjoy. Easy. What to order: A flight…

Adelaide ABBOTS AND KINNEY 78 Pirie St, Adelaide, (08) 7099 2210 Classic pastry technique and modern tweaks with a Venice Beach aesthetic. What to order: Outstanding sfogliatelle. ELEMENTARY 9-17 Young St, Adelaide, 0450 066 216 Top-notch beans from quality farms around the world, brewed in a sunny open-plan warehouse space. What to order: Filter coffee. EXCHANGE 1-3/12-18 Vardon Ave, Adelaide, 0415 966 225 Come for the expert barista work, stay for the all-day menu that features a whopping three-cheese and ’nduja toasted sandwich. What to order: Whatever the Aeropress calls for. MY KINGDOM FOR A HORSE 191 Wright St, Adelaide, (08) 8410 7408 On-site roasting ensures that whatever ends up in the cup is always a cut above the rest. What to order: The Traffic Stopper. Brisbane CAFÉ O-MAI 15…

We have an idea for a fun night out that’s going to be a blast. Gather some friends and join like-minded gourmet travellers for tapas, raciones and fine wines at one of Melbourne’s most celebrated restaurants to dine in style and talk about how to turn the journeys of your dreams into reality. At Bar Lourinhã, renowned chef Matthew McConnell dives deep into the food of the Iberian peninsula, with a menu of dishes inspired by the rich culinary wealth of Spain, Portugal and beyond. Gourmet Traveller Victoria Editor and restaurant critic Michael Harden will be in attendance to talk food, travel and everything in between. Dive into a menu that celebrates bar-dining culture at its best as you discover the possibilities of visiting one of Europe’s great destinations, from…

Amanbagh, Rajasthan This modern Mughal palace in a fertile valley about two hours’ drive northeast of Jaipur redefines accepted notions of serenity. The elegant symmetry of architect Ed Tuttle’s design, wrought in marble, sandstone and dozens of domes and set in idyllic grounds shaded by eucalypts and palms, immediately casts a spell. Guests are welcomed with a sung prayer to Vishnu that echoes around Amanbagh’s stone reception hall like a mantra. Staff tie blessings to guests’ wrists and offer infusions of fennel, basil and ginger from the organic garden. The 37 suites are capacious pavilions split between bathrooms – each with baths carved from single chunks of Udaipur green marble – and supremely comfortable sleeping quarters. The effect of so much stone – pink Rajasthani and Makrana marble (as seen…

For many modern-day explorers, Africa represents the ultimate prize. A vast, untamed land of iconic wildlife, ancient cultures and unique landscapes, it’s a mysterious continent that compels respect and dares exploration. For those wishing to unlock Africa’s secrets there are a myriad of ways to go about it, and the rewards are nothing short of glorious – whether it’s by venturing into the unknown on a 4WD adventure, soaring high above the endless plains of the Masai Mara or drifting lazily along a river system teeming with life. Luckily, there’s an APT Luxury Tour just waiting for you to begin your journey. CHOBE RIVER SAFARI ON ZAMBEZI QUEEN This Signature Experience exclusive to APT guests, takes in incredible game viewing opportunities as you embark on a remarkable safari boat ride…

Poached chicken salad with harissa, eggplant, spring onion and tahini SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING) Maha East, 21 Bond St, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9629 5900 2 chicken breasts (about 200gm each), trimmed 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock, chilled 50 ml olive oil 1 large eggplant, cut into 1cm dice 3 spring onions, sliced 50 gm (2/3 cup) roasted flaked almonds 30 gm roasted sesame seeds ½ cup (loosely packed) coriander TAHINI DRESSING 55 gm tahini 2 tsp lemon juice, plus extra to serve 1¾ tsp pomegranate molasses 1¾ tsp maple syrup HARISSA DRESSING 100 ml olive oil Juice of ½ small lemon 1 small golden shallot, finely diced ¼ tsp harissa paste 1 tbsp coriander, finely chopped 1 Place chicken in…

Kenrokuen, Kanazawa, Japan In a nation full of exquisite gardens, this living work of art in the shadow of Kanazawa Castle is regarded as one of Japan’s finest. The name means “garden of the six sublimities”, referring to the principles of Chinese landscape theory (spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, water and views). Started in the mid-17th century and developed over 200 years, this garden is a textbook example of the Chinese ideal, full of artfully planted flowering trees, bridges, water features and teahouses. Villa d’Este, Tivoli, Italy This “giardini delle meraviglie”, or fantasy garden, is a masterpiece of Renaissance design. Commissioned in the 1550s by Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, and designed by Pirro Ligorio, the gardens are a riot of nymphs and grottoes, statues and follies, and are best known for…

Lobster Australienne SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 3 HRS 30 MINS (PLUS DRYING, CHILLING, COOLING) The lobster bisque makes more than you need but the remainder can be frozen for another use. 2 live Australian eastern rock lobsters (800 gm-900gm each) 100 gm butter, diced, at room temperature 2-3 dried kutjera (see note), crushed ½ tsp ground anise myrtle (see note) 2 lemons, halved, for squeezing Torn or finely chopped herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, chervil and tarragon, to serve Watercress dressed with lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil, to serve LOBSTER BISQUE 2 kg prawn shells or extra cleaned lobster shells or both (see note), crushed with a rolling pin 80 ml (1/3 cup) vegetable oil 2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped 1 large carrot, coarsely…

A classic pastry cream is the perfect filling for pastries, traditionally used in millefeuille or choux pastry, and as the base for fruit tarts. It can also fill cakes and doughnuts. The pastry cream can be flavoured at different stages, too. For a chocolate version, add 200gm chopped dark chocolate per 5-litre batch while it’s still warm. To make a nut-based pastry cream, such as hazelnut, add nut paste to your cream once it’s cooked but still warm. You can also add a fruit purée, such as an apple purée (see below). It makes the perfect base for a crisp, sweet pastry shell in fruit tarts. Or for a crème chiboust, as seen in Gâteau Saint-Honoré, add meringue, or fold through whipped cream for a lighter version called crème Diplomat.…

JUICY GRENACHE 2018 Aphelion The Verdant Grenache, McLaren Vale, $40 My pick of five very good grenaches, varietals and blends, from this new producer. Grapes from sandy Blewitt Springs soils result in a raspberry-fruited, juicy wine. aphelionwine.com.au RICH RED 2016 Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne, Saint Joseph, $81 This rivals wine from Hermitage and Cote-Rotie: Ripe blackberries squished onto gravelly soil and sprinkled with brown peppercorns. Delicious. randalls.net.au AWARD WINNING Teeling Whiskey 24-Year-Old Single Malt, Dublin, $600 Named Best Single Malt at the 2019 World Whiskies Awards: complex flavours of grilled nuts and whole wheat and citrus and spice tumble out of the glass. danmurphys.com.au WILD MEAD Hunter and the Harp Embarkment Mead, South Coast NSW, $22 Imagine a cloudy pet-nat sparkling wine delicately flavoured with wild hedgerow blackberry and lemon myrtle…

I ’m going to assume you are a music fan. I’m going to guess that your connection to music was forged when you were young. A moment in solitude or a moment in a crowd, a Chopin prelude or a Cat Power ballad collapsing in on itself, high-gloss ear candy pumped out of speakers at a Saturday pool party. Or the swelling voices of a neighbourhood choir at church on Sunday morning, the propulsive opening war chords of “Jumpin’ Jack Flash” or the modal blossoms of “So What” – whatever it was, something lured you in. If you are a certain kind of music fan, an obsessive, that initial swig led to a period of glutting, a slurping from the vat, fireworks flashing across your brain each time you made…

Introduction Welcome to the 2020 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. We’ve made some changes to the format this year but what hasn’t changed is the rigour and precision we’ve always expected from our team of reviewers. They’ve spent months scouring the nation’s culinary landscape, gathering the restaurants – old and new – that make Australia one of the world’s great dining destinations. In doing so, they’ve created a snapshot of the places that are vital to eat at right here, right now. THE YEAR IN RESTAURANTS This year has been a reminder that restaurants, above all, are businesses. Whether the talk has been of wages or of venues closing their doors, it’s a marker of how tough the industry can be, on owners and the people they employ, to deliver the…

Adelaide PARWANA 124b Henley Beach Road, Torrensville, (08) 8443 9001 A decade on, and the Ayubi family continue to set the nationwide standard for authentic Afghan cooking. What to order: Narenji palaw made with aged rice, candied orange and nuts. +82 POCHA Shop 3/25 Grenfell St, Adelaide, (08) 8212 8274 Jeyuk-bibimbap, kimchi pancakes, fried chicken and other Korean culinary hits are all the rage at this Grenfell Plaza hotspot. What to order: The killer kimchi-jeon. LANTERN BY NU 10 Selby St, Adelaide, (08) 7078 3559 The Street Bites menu at Nu Suandokmai’s home-style Thai eatery is a bargain collection of snacks that are satisfying on their own or a perfect prelude to a meal. What to order: Betel leaves filled with pork belly, prawns or coconut. TACO QUETZALCOATL Shop 28/18…

Brisbane Happy Boy East St, Fortitude Valley Bunker-style interiors meet a roving line up of greatest hits, with a left-field round-up of wines by-the-glass. What to order: The value banquet. Little Valley 6 Warner St, Fortitude Valley Modish interiors provide a smart backdrop at this modern Chinese fine diner, from the team at Rick Shores What to order: The tangle of goodness that is the Chinese Bolognese. Donna Chang Shop 3, 171 George St, Brisbane, (07) 3243 4838 Heritage quarters with decorative ceilings create a premium setting at this upmarket riff on Chinese. What to order: A glass from Penny Grant’s broad-ranging list and the kitchen’s riff on classic prawn toast. Melbourne Dainty Sichuan Multiple locations, daintysichuanfood.com.au Nothing dainty about the fiery flavours at this ever-expanding Melbourne empire. What to…

House pickles Anchovy montadito Prawn croquetas Tuna “lomo”, almonds and buttermilk Organic cucumbers, kumquat and queso fresco Goolwa pipis, fino and ancho chilli Wagyu “carne cruda”, salted mackerel and walnut sauce Spiced chickpeas and spinach Free-range Berkshire pork shoulder, pimento and beans Blood orange crema and burnt orange caramel Drinks include a Spritz de Portugal on arrival, matching wines during dinner, and ginjinha to finish VENUE: Bar Lourinhã, 37 Little Collins St, Melbourne, VIC DATE: Wednesday 23 October 2019 TIME: 6.30pm PRICE: $115 per person including drinks TO BOOK: Call (03) 9663 7890 or visit obee.com.au/barlourinha/e/ iberianescape-gourmet-traveller…

Gaijin is the Japanese term for people like me. I used to cringe when I heard it. It took years to overcome the shame of it. But these days I don’t mind it so much. Partly because it doesn’t really apply to me anymore. Mostly because I’ve come to accept it. Gaijin means “foreigner” or “outsider”, but it really implies something more like “intruder”. Put more stereotypically, a gaijin is a white guy, clumsily bumbling through Japan, leaving a wake of social miscues and broken dishes behind him. It’s a term that’s meant to be derogatory – sometimes playfully, other times with menace. And even though I’ve lived in Japan for the better part of three decades, speak Japanese fluently, have opened two successful ramen shops in Tokyo, and am…

Tourists start lining up outside Franklin Barbecue in East Austin before dawn. The restaurant provides camp chairs for the wait, which can take up to half the day as a line stretches around the teal-and-white low-rise building. Some customers pack their own coolers. Others bring their dogs. Pitmaster Aaron Franklin has tapped into a universal craving for smoked meats, and his franchise includes cookbooks, a music festival, side hustles with other local chefs, a pending line of backyard barbecue pits and a television show (my favourite episode: Pickin’ Beef). He’s camera-ready and smokes a quality brisket. But this first morning in Central Texas I’m searching for a breakfast taco, and I drive past Franklin on my way to a food truck deep in South Austin. On an unpaved roadside lot…

EAT Mon Lapin The folk from Joe Beef, the city’s most famous restaurant, opened this natural wine bar (above) last year. It’s a cosy restaurant in the same vein, with seasonal, wine-friendly fare that changes daily: perhaps radishes in chicken-liver mousse, or smoked-eel carbonara that recalls Joe Beef’s celebrated lobster spaghetti. 150 Saint-Zotique, vinmonlapin.com Agrikol Owned by two local darlings from indie band Arcade Fire, this restaurant serves Haitian street food: whole fried fish, beans and rice, plantain and beignets. The menu is teamed with infectious Caribbean music, a riot of Haitian artworks on turquoise and coral walls, and Barbancourt rum – ideally in DIY Tí Punch cocktails (fresh lime, sugarcane syrup and plenty of Haiti’s best rum). 1844 Amherst, agrikol.ca Beau Mont Long before Joe Beef became a destination…

APT Experience unique encounters as you venture away from the regular tourist trail to discover a different side to the world. Secrets of The Baltics: 11 days from $7395, Call 1300 335 714 or visit aptouring.com.au/smallgroups Hugo Boss Symbolising the modern man’s need to reconnect with his inner self, the new fragrance from Hugo Boss, Boss Bottled Infinite, is refreshing yet deep, encouraging him to take time out for his passions. 100ml for $135. Holland America Line Join Holland America Line to experience the only purpose-built wine-blending venue at sea. Blend is an intimate venue where guests can create their own blend of red wine. hollandamerica.com Mutti The best meals start with the best ingredients. Since 1971, Mutti Polpa finely chopped tomatoes have added a fresh and fragrant tomato flavour…