Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i Gourmet Traveller

MUSSELS AND ’NDUJA, Marion Deliciously saline mussels are the heroes of this dish at this Fitzroy wine bar favourite. Bread toasted with a faint note of garlic adds texture, while ’nduja gives it all a moreish spicy kick. A glass of textural orange-style Brave New Wine Doppelgänger, meanwhile, can only improve things. 53 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, Vic. LISA FEATHERBY, FOOD EDITOR SCALLOPS, SHIRO AND KATSUOBUSHI BUTTER, Stillwater Grilled scallops from Bass Strait star on their half shells with a splash of white soy and bonito-infused butter, and a sprinkle of bonito flakes. The heat sets the flakes in motion on the way to the table, a little piece of theatre from head chef Craig Will. Stillwater, 2 Bridge Rd, Launceston, Tas. HELEN ANDERSON, TRAVEL EDITOR SMOKED MULLET DIP WITH POTATO…

Youth isn’t everything. Just ask Daniel Zivkovich, who runs Old Girls, a Canberra business that trades in “meat from well-lived and loved animals”. An alternative to typical farming methods, Old Girls sources meat from animals such as retired dairy cows, and aims to celebrate the complex flavours and textures that come with age. “The flavour is unique,” he says. “Our palates are more used to something that’s close to veal.” Zivkovich currently sources spent laying hens, roosters and retired or dual-purpose cattle, and is experimenting with dry-ageing. Pilot, Bar Rochford and Aubergine are among his customers, while local Chinese restaurants Lazy Su and Baby Su have been ordering roosters. “Congee is really good with roosters,” he says. “Especially roosters that have been around for three or four years.” instagram.com/oldgirlscbr In…

When your sole purpose is making chocolate, you become very passionate about it. For Green and Black’s co-founders Craig Sams and Jo Fairley, making chocolate is more art than science. With an ethical approach to sustainability underpinning the chocolate, the duo have become icons in the industry. “From the very beginning, our ambition was to create a brand that brought together the principles of ethics and indulgence. The name we came up with said it all - Green symbolises a commitment to sourcing ethical cocoa and the finest ingredients and the Black stands for the passionate crafting, high quality and delicious taste,” says Fairley. For the chocolate duo, the secret behind the brand’s success and authenticity starts at the very beginning of the process - during the fermentation and drying…

1 THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT BONITO DASHI Savoury and distinctly oceanic, dashi is a multifaceted weapon in the kitchen. It’s a great base for miso soup and a sound choice when poaching white fish. For a foolproof salad dressing, mix it with shoyu and mirin. $5.95 for 90gm. essentialingredient.com.au 2 UNDIVIDED FOOD CO GOOD BONES ORGANIC CHICKEN BONE BROTH Undivided Food Co chooses its ingredients seriously: free-range chickens from Inglewood Farms, organic Australian vegetables, biodynamic apple cider vinegar and Olsson’s sea salt. Together they make a golden broth with body, depth and a potent roasted quality. Built for jus, but just as rewarding on its own. $12.50 for 500ml.undividedfoodco.com 3 MOREDOUGH KITCHENS PREMIUM VEGETABLE STOCK Shop-bought vegetable stocks can be dilute and underseasoned. Not so in this case. There’s a tingle…

LIVELY FIZZ Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne, Champagne, $85 Partially wild-fermented in concrete eggs, this pristine Champagne is predominantly pinot noir but tastes more of chardonnay: lemony and full of lively minerality. Imported by imbibo.com.au VALUE RED 2017 Ravensworth Estate Sangiovese, Canberra District, $38 A glorious sangiovese that offers superb value: you’d have to spend a lot more to find a Chianti with this complexity and purity of red-cherry fruit and savoury tannins. ravensworthwines.com.au CRUNCHY FIANO 2018 Goon Tycoons Hipster Piss Fiano, Frankland River, $25 Cheeky name, lovely wine. Southern Mediterranean grape varieties are proving to be well-suited to the Frankland region, as this crunchy, textural, pear-juicy example demonstrates. goontycoons.com.au PROPER PALE ALE Bad Shepherd Victoria Pale Ale, Melbourne, $4.40 There’s plenty of weird and wonderful brews around, but sometimes you…

Jake Smyth’s on the floor, hair ragged, busting out of his singlet. Karl Stefanovic, shirt unbuttoned to a few inches above his navel, is sharing shots of mezcal. When the Underground Brass Band’s version of New Orleans second line, R&B and soul isn’t blaring, it’s Drake, 2 Chainz and Kendrick Lamar backing up A$AP Rocky on F**kin’ Problems. The older patrons seem fine with it. The younger ones are dancing. Caitlyn Rees, GT’s 2018 Sommelier of the Year, is pouring wine. And the lobster is only $100. We ve said that entering Restaurant Hubert is the closest you’ll get to living out the Copacabana scene from Goodfellas. But walk down the stairs at Mary’s Underground, step through the red-lit doors, and be whisked away to a lo-fi Australiana version, where…

Baked sweet potatoes with goat’s cheese topping SERVES 4 Sweet potatoes are full of sugar, which means they crisp and caramelise beautifully in the oven. That’s a start, but the toppings are the hero here: a sharp, creamy filling of goat’s cheese, sour cream and chives, a scatter of roasted nuts and seeds for crunch, and mint for freshness. Serve them on their own, or as a tricked-up side with a roast in place of jacket potatoes. 8 small sweet potatoes (about 230gm each) 2 tsp olive oil 2 tbsp roasted nuts and seeds, such as pine nuts, sunflower seeds and pepitas Finely chopped mint, to serve GOAT’S CHEESE TOPPING 100 gm goat’s cheese (chèvre) 80 gm sour cream 1 golden shallot, finely chopped 2 tbsp finely chopped chives 1…

“Roast chicken with ginger, garlic, sesame, Sichuan pepper and Korean chilli is a go-to,” says Mark Best. Preheat a heavy casserole dish to 195°C. Break your chook down to legs and wings and split the breast in two. Coarsely grate a head of garlic and a big knob of ginger. Add a teaspoon of coarse salt and plenty of sesame oil, Sichuan pepper and gochugaru or chilli flakes. Roll the chook around in the spices and add to the pan skin-side up, roasting for an hour. Serve with roast sebago chips.…

START WITH CARBS Pasta, lentils, chickpeas, rice, polenta, puff pastry, filo. GIVE IT BODY Frozen stock, good butter, rich cheese, yoghurt, pancetta, tomato passata. BUILD FLAVOUR Chilli flakes, anchovies, garlic, soy sauce, fermented chilli, extra-virgin olive oil, parmesan, honey, lemon, ginger, vinegar. BULK IT UP Cavolo nero, fresh herbs, bitter greens, root vegetables, large cuts of meat. ADD SOME EXTRAS A glass (or a bottle) of mourvèdre, Guinness, cured meats, pickles, pâté, Milo, a secret stash of chocolate.…

Andrew McConnell’s flagship Melbourne fine diner, Cutler & Co, is celebrating its 10th birthday this year, and to celebrate the chef has shared a menu for this month’s issue. The recipes here represent some of McConnell’s favourite dishes from the last decade and, he says, can be “eaten together as a complementary meal, or lifted off the page one at a time”. “We’ve covered a lot of ground over the last 10 years so it was hard to choose which dishes to include,” he says. “But I think these provide a good snapshot of our approach at Cutler and the constant process of evolving ideas.” So what is it exactly that keeps a restaurant at the top of its game for so long? “Ten years ago, our main objective at…

Noodle soup with chicken and chive dumplings SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 3 HRS 15 MINS This soup is a warm hug, with or without the dumplings, with a double-boiled stock bringing extra richness. A chicken soup to cure all ills, or at least make you feel that little bit better. 2 kg chicken bones 2 litres (8 cups) chicken stock 1½ tsp sesame oil (or to taste) 200 gm fresh thin egg noodles 1 tbsp soy sauce (or to taste), plus extra to serve Thinly sliced spring onion, to serve CHICKEN AND CHIVE DUMPLINGS 430 gm minced chicken 1 bunch garlic chives, finely chopped 3 tsp oyster sauce 1 tsp soy sauce ½ tsp sesame oil ½ tsp finely grated ginger 30 wonton wrappers 1…

Getting there Air New Zealand and Latam fly one stop from Sydney and Melbourne to Buenos Aires. Latam has regular flights from the Argentinian capital to Ushuaia. Cruising there Ponant has 24 Antarctic itineraries from November 2019 to February 2020 on Le Soléal and three virtually identical sister ships. Itineraries from 10 to 22 days take in locations including the Antarctic Peninsula, Falkland Islands and South Georgia. The writer sailed on the 10-night Emblematic Antarctica voyage, which costs from $15,820 per person twin share. This includes return domestic flights between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia, all meals and drinks, onboard lectures, WiFi and daily Zodiac excursions with an expedition team. au.ponant.com…

Stokehouse, Melbourne; Harriet Davidson, writer & editorial coordinator Bollinger poured from a hanging hula hoop. How else to celebrate 30 years of service? Happy birthday Stokehouse. @harriet.olive Bicheno, Tasmania; Helen Anderson, travel editor The most thrilling way to see Tasmania is at 1500 metres, on a helicopter commute with Unique Charters from Launceston to a pierside lunch at Freycinet Lodge. @handersonglobal Karijini National Park, Western Australia; Max Veenhuyzen, WA editor It’s a special thing to be on traditional Banjima land, doubly so when in camp with roving native food pop-up, Fervor. @maxveenhuyzen…

Chase Kojima was still a teenager when he encountered Chuka cuisine in Kyoto. The cooking style, effectively a Japanese interpretation of Chinese cooking but geared to suit local tastes, paved the way for popular dishes such as miso ramen and gyoza. It was the general approach to Chinese food in Japan rather than the detail that stuck with the youngster, who went on to run Japanese diner Sokyo in Sydney. Growing up in the US, his early experience of Chinese food was confined to take-out. “Everything in Japan is light,” he says. “It was so much better.” Fast-forward and Japanese-Chinese fusion is on the chef’s mind again. His new Sydney restaurant, Chuuka, is built on the fusion of the two cuisines. Due to open in late July, it’s a collaboration…

Any other exciting condiments planned? We had a lot of leftover flatbread, so I thought it’d be cool to create a flatbread miso. We fermented it and it had this salty, sour flavour, not too different to kashk, a Lebanese ferment with yoghurt and burghul. When you worked at Yellow, you were known for your vegetarian dishes. Will vegetables play an equally big role at Gerard’s now? They’ll be an integral part of the menu. I’ll make a version of kataifi, with potato instead of pastry, and I’m starting to work with a lot of local growers. Do you think more chefs will make the move to Brisbane? I hope to see more chefs moving here. The seasons aren’t as dramatic as in the southern part of Australia. The coastline…

You spent your earliest years in Northern Ireland, before moving to New Zealand. What food do you recall having? Northern Ireland wasn’t exactly a gastronomic destination in those days. It was also a time of rations. I remember the day rationing ended and hurtling off to the sweet shop for as many Mars bars as we could afford (probably just the one). My mother, God bless her, was not much of a cook. The only real memory I have of eating anything at all was bread and dripping. Not bad, too, as I remember it. Is that possible? You started acting in high school. What it was like being on stage for the first time? I had a pretty bad stammer as a child. I also had (and still have)…

My dad used to make us pancakes as kids on special occasions, so they’ve always resonated with me. Nowadays, if I’m cooking breakfast, it means I’m on holidays or annual leave, so in a roundabout way, pancakes equal happiness. Buttermilk is a staple in the American South, so almost every pancake I’ve eaten has had buttermilk in it – and the South always sneaks into how I cook. The acidity in buttermilk also reacts with the leavening agent, which gives the pancake more lift; I also think the acidity helps cut the sweetness. There are a million ways to make most things, but I like the lightness and fluffiness that the whipped eggwhites give the batter. The thought process came from making sponge cakes and meringues, the method worked out,…

Simple pleasures (and dinner party peoplepleasers) don’t come much simpler than baked cheese. And few, if any, cheeses are as revered in molten form as Vacherin Mont d’Or. Named after a mountain peak in the Jura, this soft, pungent washed-rind cheese is the hard work of a small but steadfast network of farmers and makers in the Swiss canton of Vaud and the department of Doubs in eastern France, where it’s known as Vacherin du Haut-Doubs. Production begins mid-August and concludes mid-March, making the most of the dense winter milk from the same dairy cows responsible for Comté and Gruyère. CHEESE The most important thing is that the cheese is cooked until it is completely soft, golden on top and warmed all the way through. Serving it in its circular…

If the snacks are anything to go by, Etta has a firm grip on the concepts behind a neighbourhood local. Little cubes of pommes Anna made with Dutch cream potatoes are fried to crisp at the edges and served with a fermented black-garlic caramel and a flurry of finely grated parmesan. An oblong of Etta’s house-made sourdough that’s been soaked in fermented tomato juice is fried, then crowned with gorgeous flakes of cured hapuku smoked with applewood. “Fried and salty” is in play, as is “good with drinks”, and they leave you wanting more. Good qualities for a snack in any location. But it’s the fermenting, curing and smoking that underline chef Charley Snadden-Wilson’s understanding of the specific neighbourhood demographic. East Brunswick is a village that attracts a food-savvy clientele…

Emma McCaskill SPARKKE AT THE WHITMORE, ADELAIDE I’m a huge fan of stocks and broths, especially in winter, and chicken soup is a staple. If I’m short of time – which is highly likely – I’ll grab a roast chook from the local charcoal chicken shop, remove the stuffing, place it in a pot of water and boil it for about an hour. I add chopped onions, carrots, potatoes and kale for the last 15 minutes, then shred the chicken and stir it back in. Seasoning the broth well at the end makes a difference, too. Duncan Welgemoed AFRICOLA, ADELAIDE Always make sure you have some chicken broth in your freezer. Add shop-bought dumplings, ramen or even heaps of chilli and Spam if you’re feeling dirty enough. Another go-to is…

Leftover cacio e pepe, with extra cheese Aaron Turner Gruyère and pickled chillies Christine Manfield Leftover ragù Bolognese Mark Best Peri peri chicken livers Duncan Welgemoed Slow-braised lamb and brinjal Emma McCaskill Heidi Gruyère and smoked belly bacon Maggie Beer Kashkaval and bastourma Joseph Abboud Last night’s roast lamb and veg with Branston Pickle Peter Kuruvita Lamb curry Neil Perry Baked leg ham and mustard Matt Moran Ricotta, chocolate and marmalade Jaclyn Koludrovic Four-cheese mac and cheese Zoe Birch Black truffle and camembert Danielle Alvarez…

“My ultimate go-to sweet recipe in winter when I need some comfort is a quince and lemon pudding, preferably with Meyer lemon,” says Jaclyn Koludrovic. Cover 4 peeled and quartered quince in sugar syrup (equal parts water to sugar) in a baking dish, add a few savoury spices like juniper berries and cardamom, and bake at 150°C until pink (3 hours). Beat 60gm soft butter with 120gm caster sugar, a pinch of salt and the zest of 2 lemons. Separate 3 eggs, and beat in yolks, one at a time, until pale. Add 60ml lemon juice and beat to combine. Transfer to a large bowl. In batches, fold 50gm sifted self-raising flour into the batter, alternating with 230ml milk. Whisk eggwhites to stiff peaks, then fold into batter. Drain quince,…

You’ve got to hand it to Winston Churchill. Not only did he (almost) single-handedly win World War II, he also predicted the invention of lab-grown meat. An unsung futurist, he wrote in 1931 that the world would develop the technology to divorce the production of meat from the slaughter of animals. “We shall escape the absurdity of growing a whole chicken in order to eat the breast or wing by growing these parts separately,” he opined in his essay “Fifty Years Hence”, pre-dating even the invention of Spam by a good six years. “The new foods will from the outset be practically indistinguishable from the natural products.” The world is running almost four decades past Churchill’s deadline, and the artificial production of an excellent rib-eye or even a convincing chicken…

FRENCH CHILL Match this whimsical playlist with cheese and a fine red. It’s jam-packed with standards, featuring the sultry tones of Madeleine Peyroux, Édith Piaf and Françoise Hardy. AUTUNNO Anyone who’s spied the Tupak poster in the bathroom at Don Peppino’s will recognise the house style in their seasonal playlist, that’s heavy on hip hop and R&B. AMBIENT RELAXATION The zen is all around in this compilation of easy-listening instrumentals, perfect for low-key activities such as yoga, meditation – and naps. IT’S COLD OUTSIDE Songs to keep warm to by an open fire with a bottle of wine to hand. Artists include the likes of Bon Iver, The National and the dulcet tones of Whitney. WINTER SOUNDS Nine hours of snug and cosy tunes in a Spotify-selected playlist with hits…

MELBOURNE FOOD & WINE Recorded during March’s Festival of Ideas, this aural feast features interviews with Lune Croissanterie’s Kate Reid, Peter Gilmore and the team from Joe Beef. SIMPLE PLEASURES In each episode of this fun-filled pod, Yotam Ottolenghi invites a pal, like Nigella Lawson or Michael Palin, over for a meal prepared from his book Simple. HESTON’S POD & CHIPS Heston Blumenthal presents “the world’s first multi-sensory podcast”, which delves into the weird and the wonderful. “Time Travel with Heston” and “How to Eat with your Ears” are just two highlights. HIGHLY ENTHUSED Instagram-obsessed, style-conscious and switched-on duo Sophie McComas and Sophie Roberts share their recommendations for everything worth consuming, online and in reality.…

HO JIAK, Sydney Ho Jiak’s indomie goreng comes in all shapes and sizes, tossed with salted duck egg and spanner crab, or with marron, if you’re game. GOOD DAYS, Melbourne Good Days delivers its signature noodle soups, including an addictive vegan pho loaded with mushrooms. Good day, indeed. BEN’S BURGERS, Brisbane There’s no messing with a classic, and Ben’s Burgers are about as classic as it gets. Add some pecan pie for good measure.…

Doughnuts with sour cream and salmon roe 2017 Domaine Besson Petit Chablis King George whiting with brown butter, pickled onion and dill 2017 Sinapius Clem Blanc riesling blend Wood-grilled prawns with fried garlic and chilli oil 2017 Eastern Peake Pinot Tache Pinot Noir rosé Roasted duck breast with spiced quince, anise crumb and mead sauce Baby kipfler potatoes with hay butter and sorrel 2016 Anthony Thévenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes Red endive and beetroot salad with juniper and horseradish cream 2017 Cullen Red Moon Malbec/ Petit Verdot/Merlot Apple terrine with burnt-butter ice-cream, oat crumb and butterscotch sauce Tariquet L’Idée Folle!…

The story of Hardware Société goes something like this… Will and Di Keser realise that what people want from Hardware Société is brunch. All day. This is when some of the dishes that are the foundation for the café’s popularity come into being. Melbourne is a town where people have already taken to the idea of breakfast, but what Di and Will do at Hardware Société is something new. There’s eggs Benedict, but they turn it into lobster Benedict, which comes with a citrus hollandaise foam, soft herbs and a 64-degree egg. They serve scrambled eggs with a double-smoked bacon slab, peas and Gruyère. Fried brioche becomes a signature, perhaps served with Earl Grey-poached pears and chocolate ganache. It’s not like any other brunch menu in town. “Our food is…

YAMAMOTO Word of mouth is very important in Tokyo, especially for a restaurant as tucked away as Yamamoto. It’s in the basement of a nondescript building near Yoyogi-Uehara station, with just eight seats at a bar overlooking an open kitchen and another six in a private dining room. The bar, made of hinoki, Japanese cypress, is the place to watch Seiji Yamamoto at work. He trained as a sushi chef before moving into kaiseki, Japan’s traditional cuisine featuring multiple courses, artful presentation and ultra seasonality. A meal might start with a bowl of raw seafood of varied textures – crunchy herring roe, warm sea urchin, creamy tuna with miso, chewy smoked razor clam – and progress through 10 courses in a classic kaiseki format. Fried lotus, shiitake, fugu (the infamous…

Fine form Paris-born jeweller Anissa Kermiche has ventured into ceramics with a range of boldly coloured vases that celebrate modern femininity. Anissa Kermiche jugs jug ceramic vase, $530, matchesfashion.com BLANKET STATEMENT Two Good supports women fleeing domestic violence. For every throw sold, another is donated to a women’s shelter. Author Sarah Wilson collaborated with Waverley Mills to design the throws, which are made from recycled yarn and Australian merino wool. Two Good throw, buy one, give one for $250, twogood.com.au Blown away Each piece of glassware from creative studio R+D Lab is handmade in Italy using traditional mouth-blowing techniques. Thanks to fashion label, Lee Mathews, a selection is now available in Australia. R+D Lab glassware, from $45, leemathews.com.au Eye for design Each piece in this collaboration between an Israeli interior…

Bassike bassike.com Byrnt Ceramics byrntceramics.com Chanel chanel.com, 1300 242 635 Chef vs Clay djm.ceramics@gmail.com Chuchu chuchu.net.au Dear Frances dearfrances.com Dior dior.com, (02) 9295 9022 Eadie Lifestyle eadielifestyle.com.au Earp Bros earp.com.au Gucci gucci.com Hale Mercantile Co halemercantileco.com, (03) 9939 1267 Hansen & Gretel hansenandgretel.com Hermès hermes.com Holly Ryan hollyryan.com.au Iittala iittala.com.au In Bed Store inbedstore.com Jac + Jack jacandjack.com Kattleya Silang, 0422 967 987 Kristin Moore Pottery kristinmoorepottery.com Lee Mathews leemathews.com.au Long Courrier longcourrier.com.au Luna Ceramics lunaceramics.com Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com Mecca mecca.com.au Peter’s of Kensington petersofkensington.com.au Porter’s Paints porterspaints.com Riedel riedel.com, (02) 9966 0033 Scanpan scanpan.com.au, 1800 808 971 Skin & Threads skinandthreads.com Teranova teranova.com.au, (02) 9386 0063 The DEA Store thedeastore.com, (02) 9698 8150 The Essential Ingredient essentialingredient.com.au The Lost + Found Department thelostandfounddepartment.com.au Utopia Art utopiaartsydney.com.au Williams Sonoma williamssonoma.com.au Wonki Ware wonkiware.com.au This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our…

Daube of beef with winter vegetables SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 2 HRS 15 MINS At du Fermier, chef Annie Smithers makes her own salted pork belly, but mild pancetta is equally effective. Pictured p154. du Fermier, 42 High St, Trentham, Vic, (03) 5424 1634 20 gm unsalted butter 2 tbsp olive oil 1.5 kg piece trimmed beef oyster blade or chuck, cut into 8 pieces 1 onion, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp plain flour 750 ml dry red wine 2 fresh bay leaves 1 thyme sprig 8 baby kipfler potatoes, scrubbed 150 gm piece mild pancetta 16 golden shallots, peeled 16 Swiss brown mushrooms Pinch of caster sugar (or to taste) 12 baby carrots, trimmed 12 baby turnips, trimmed and scrubbed…

When Kim Seagram opened Stillwater, her destination restaurant in Launceston’s colonial-era flour mill, she set out to “capture northern Tasmania on a plate” Nearly 20 years later, the Canadian-born Launceston entrepreneur has extended the same brief for travellers, carving out space in the mill for a boutique hotel full of northern Tasmanian character. Like the restaurant downstairs, the seven rooms of Stillwater Seven are a showcase of local talent: design by Cumulus Studio, beds by Hobart-based AH Beard, woollen throws by Waverley Mills, bathroom products by Lentara Grove, and walls hung with works by local artists. The showpiece curved bar-pantry in each room is made by local artisan Simon Ancher from Tasmanian blackwood, and filled with produce from a rollcall of star regional producers: Coal River Farm cheeses, Tasmanian Butter…

SYDNEY Glenda Lau, the Automata chef who gave Clayton Wells his first taste of a muffuletta and thereby inspired an Instagram frenzy at A1 Canteen, is launching her own restaurant in Rushcutters Bay. Opened with Alessia Bottini (Fratelli Paradiso), Bayswater Kitchenette will serve home-style Italian food, with cheese crocchetta, ragù Bolognese and lasagne and cotoletta inspired by Bottini’s mama and nonna. Muffulettas pending. This spring, Dan Hong is reviving Lotus, the venue in which he made his name by riffing on classic Asian dishes and upcycling fast-food favourites, at its original site in Potts Point. For the pop-up, replacing The Fish Shop, Hong will continue the reign of the Lotus cheeseburger and bring back classics such as his tuna with sweet wasabi and hot fudge sundae. MELBOURNE Scott Pickett is…

I have two homes. One in Sydney, where I was born and grew up and where my mum lives. And the other in the south of England, where my husband, Greg, and my daughters and two granddaughters live. When I’m working in Europe I can often just fly home for 24 or 48 hours, but I’ve been working a lot in the US and so far this year, as well as the usual European travel, I’ve had lots of long-haul: Sydney to UK return twice, UK to LA return, and New York and San Francisco, and now I’m in Detroit. This is a bit extreme. Greg and I love travelling; we’re complete gypsies. This year’s been unusual – I had a few weeks off because a project was cancelled. We…

When the Corowa Distilling Co released their inaugural small batch of whiskey in August last year, all 320 bottles sold out in just 24 hours. This is not an uncommon story: such is the feverish enthusiasm for craft whiskey in Australia at the moment – and so good is the quality of many of the new whiskies emerging from small distilleries across the country – that supply simply cannot keep up with demand. Corowa co-founder Dean Druce doesn’t see that demand falling off any time soon. In fact, he’s banking on it continuing to grow. The distillery only filled its first barrel with raw new spirit as recently as early 2016, but is now filling up to 200 barrels a year, and has the capacity to make 10 times as…

THE HUMBLE CRACKER With a recipe baked to perfection, these new flat bread crackers are hard to resist. There’s no denying their toasted golden colour and crunchy texture will make them instant crowd-pleasers. Crafted from wheat, ryeflour and wholegrain oats, the Chilli Jam variant is charged with chilli flakes, vinegar and a touch of brown sugar. Also available in Sea Salt and Burnt Fig. GRAZING PLATTER BRILLIANT BASE Start your platter with Kettle Chilli Jam Flat Bread Crackers. CHEESES Vine-wrapped washed rind cheese Buffalo mozarella Parmigiano Reggiano EXTRAS Pickled red onion Oxheart tomato Basil pesto Mixed radishes Heirloom beetroot Crisp pancetta Available at Coles…

“I love tagine,” says Neil Perry. “It’s so simple; once you make the chermoula, it’s a five-minute job”. Combine 1-2 tbsp ground chilli and ras el hanout, 1 tbsp each of ground cumin, coriander seeds and turmeric, and a pinch of sweet paprika. Add a diced red onion, 4 garlic cloves, a handful of coriander and a handful of flat-leaf parsley. Pour in 125ml olive oil, squeeze in juice of ½ lemon and blend to a paste. Add diced lamb and marinate overnight. Fry lamb over high heat for five minutes in olive oil, add any vegetables you like – pumpkin, green beans – add water to cover, a pinch of salt, a few tablespoons of honey and the juice of a lemon, and braise until tender. 30 minutes before…

“A minestrone full of vegetables, beans and cavolo nero, with a dash of extra-virgin olive oil and grated parmesan says winter to me,” says Maggie Beer. Gather all the veg you have – leeks, carrots, potatoes, pumpkin. Cut into dice and sauté in generous amount of oil for about 8 minutes with fresh herbs, a can of crushed tomatoes and 500ml chicken stock. Simmer until softened, then add 2 cups cooked cannellini beans. Add chopped cavolo nero and cook just until the greens are limp. Add some stale bread if you have it and allow it all to simmer. Top with a good dash of good Aussie extra-virgin olive oil and grated parmesan to serve.…

NSW SMALL TOWN 4/41 Wason St, Milton Neighbourly is the operative term at the new south-coast venue from the St Isidore team. Due to open as the first spring shoots appear, Small Town, a 20-seater just off Milton’s main drag, sees the team refocusing on the simple things. “We never intended for St Isidore to be a special-occasion place,” says co-owner Jo Thomas. “Here we’ll be distilling the dining experience to good wine and simple, delicious food. More fun. More concise.” Inside, the space is bright and warm, with marble and timber accents, and food is stripped back and coastal. Expect mud crab with rice, curry leaves and fried garlic, and snacks such as sea urchin roe on nettle crackers. Sasha Siljanovic’s wine list, meanwhile, ramps up the by-the-glass options…

NESCAFÉ GOLD ORIGINAL IS A PREMIUM SOLUBLE COFFEE WITH ADDED BARISTA-STYLE GROUND COFFEE TO DELIVER A TASTE BALANCE BETWEEN RICHNESS AND DEPTH. What makes an instant coffee experience memorable? It all starts with premium coffee beans, sourced by NESCAFÉ experts. Afterwards, each bean is carefully roasted then ground to deliver the perfect taste experience at home. NESCAFÉ Gold Original produces a premium cup of soluble coffee with added baristastyle ground coffee to deliver a taste balance between richness and depth. Each unique NESCAFÉ Gold variety, Original, Intense, Rich and Smooth, includes a strength rating to help you find your perfect match for your next coffee moment. WHEN TASTE MATTERS Find your perfect NESCAFÉ Gold match with a range of flavours and strengths to suit all tastes. Nescafe.com.au Nescafe.com.au…

2015 CASTAGNA ADAM’S RIB THE RED, Beechworth, Vic This nebbiolo with a touch of shiraz from the family’s biodynamic estate has notes of cherry and rosehip, with an earthy backbeat. $40, castagna.com.au 2018 FREDERICK STEVENSON BV HONGELL GRENACHE, Barossa Valley, SA Steve Crawford reveals a brighter, snappier side of grenache. Sappy, juicy red fruits are the dominant theme, while whole-bunch fermentation lends rawness and a wild edge. $32, frederickstevenson.com.au 2017 CULLEN DIANA MADELINE, Wilyabrup, WA The latest release of this Bordeaux is vibrant, with a palate of violets, currants and blackberries, and hints of cacao and tobacco. $129, cullenwines.com.au…

Think of it as an early spring-clean. The most comprehensive of Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat’s programs, the acclaimed seven-night Winter Detox, aims for nothing less than transformation. It includes a range of cutting-edge wellness therapies, health consultations, spa cuisine based on produce grown in extensive on-site gardens, and wellness seminars aimed at imparting take-home skills for better health. Seven-night detoxes at the 200-hectare hilltop retreat start on 30 June, 21 July and 11 August. gwinganna.com…

1 ON EATING MEAT  Matthew Evans The food critic turned farmer-restaurateur has written an “ode to farming animals and eating animals”. On his Fat Pig Farm in Tasmania, the unabashed meat-eater has learned how difficult it is to fill the bellies of just one family. He wonders, then, how do millions of Australians – in one of the world’s biggest meat-eating nations – source so much at such low prices? What he discovers, explained in a breezy style that belies its scythe-like precision, is illuminating, and sometimes unpalatable. Murdoch, $32.99, pbk, out 1 July. 2 THE FATE OF FOOD  Amanda Little Subtitled “What we’ll eat in a bigger, hotter, smarter world”, this book could present as a grim warning on waste and folly. Instead, journalist Amanda Little offers solutions to…

Osso buco, risotto Milanese SERVES 4 “One of the most famous dishes from Milan, the key ingredient in this risotto is saffron,” says Scott Pickett. “It’s a perfect foil for the slow-cooked veal. The classic way to serve this is to scatter it with gremolata, which adds a wonderful freshness.” Pictured p92. 1 kg ripe tomatoes 4 veal osso buco pieces (350gm-450gm each) 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 onions, diced 2 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped 250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine 2 litres (8 cups) veal or chicken stock 1 large thyme sprig 1 large rosemary sprig 1 large sage sprig 1 fresh bay leaf Large pinch of saffron GREMOLATA ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, coarsely chopped Finely grated zest of…

Getting there Air New Zealand flies direct to Wellington from Sydney up to 12 times a week; from Brisbane up to five times a week; and from Melbourne up to seven times a week with regular connections to Blenheim in the heart of the Marlborough wine region. airnewzealand.com.au Stay The Marlborough Lodge This former convent reopened in 2016 as a luxury lodge with 10 guest rooms on a property of more than six hectares amid the vineyards, 10 minutes’ drive from Blenheim airport. It’s adjacent to the Rapaura Tennis Club and has a swimming pool open in the warmer months. The lodge is well located for tours of cellar doors and can arrange regional tours. From $1600 a night, twin share, including breakfast, pre-dinner drinks and canapés, and multi-course dinner…

Never Never Distilling Co is an Australian distillery on the rise. Their Southern Strength Gin won the World’s Best Classic Gin at the 2019 World Gin Awards in London. $75. neverneverdistilling.com.au Holland America Line The exclusive Food & Wine shore tours by Holland America Line include hands-on cooking classes with chefs from top restaurants, culinary walking tours, winery visits and more. hollandamerica.com Nescafé The Nescafé Gold coffee range makes it easier than ever to enjoy café-quality coffee at home. The range includes classic cappuccino and sophisticated flavours. $6.30 for 8 sachets. nescafe.com.au Kettle The Flat Bread Crackers range from Kettle is made with natural ingredients, with a selection that includes sea salt, chilli jam and burnt fig. They’re perfect for a delicious snack.snackbrands.com.au/kettle-flat-bread-crackers Green & Black’s The new Smooth range…

Measures & equipment • All cup and spoon measures are level and based on Australian metric measures. • Eggs have an average weight of 59gm unless otherwise specified. • Fruit and vegetables are washed, peeled and medium-sized unless otherwise specified. • Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. • Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based; cake tins are stainless steel, unless otherwise specified. Cooking tips • When seasoning food, we use sea salt and freshly ground pepper. • To blanch an ingredient, cook it briefly in boiling water, then drain it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty of iced water, then drain it. • We recommend using free-range eggs, chicken and pork. We use female pork for preference. • Unless specified, neutral oil…

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