Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2019 i Gourmet Traveller

Andy, congratulations on Spice Temple’s 10th birthday. Do you recall your first day there? I remember it well. It was my daughter Lola’s first birthday and I had to duck out of her birthday party so I could get to the kitchen and prep. What were highlights from your Spice Temple research trips with chef Neil Perry? I had no idea that many of the provincial embassies in Beijing and Shanghai had restaurants. At the Yunnan embassy, we discovered a really good slice of rubing, which is like haloumi. Wok-fried with Sichuan salt and pepper, it was amazing. Our braised lamb with steamed bread pockets were inspired by those we had at the Xinjiang embassy. I hear your fish-drowned-in-heaven-facing-chilli dish recalls a near disaster in a Shanghai restaurant. Neil turned…

Manoella Buffara is a sustainability champion. The chef-owner of Manu in the southern Brazilian city of Curitiba has launched 89 urban gardens in her city and helped install 4,000 beehives. She has also taught locals how to turn waste into food, with the likes of watermelon-peel jam. After meeting chef Jock Zonfrillo in São Paulo – where he introduced her to Australian ingredients such as strawberry eucalyptus and Moreton Bay fig shoots – she’s “super excited” about taking part in Adelaide’s Tasting Australia festival. She appears at Glasshouse Kitchen: Roast at Town Square on 14 April. tastingaustralia.com.au…

Casarecce with pancetta and Brussels sprouts SERVES 4 Brussels sprouts are far more than a side dish. Here, they form the base of a midweek pasta, with pancetta and rosemary bringing the oomph. 400 gm dried casarecce 60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 50 gm pancetta, diced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tbsp rosemary sprigs 6 large Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced 60 ml dry white wine Finely grated parmesan, to serve Crème fraîche (optional), to serve 1 Cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until al dente (about 10 minutes). Drain, reserving a little pasta water. 2 Meanwhile, heat oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add pancetta, garlic and rosemary and stir until golden (3-5 minutes). Add Brussels sprouts…

Everybody loves chocolate sauce. But while the lusciousness of a pourable ganache is hard to beat, the cream base means it can fall a little on the rich side. For a sauce that can be poured at will, and isn’t so cloying, a sugar-syrup base is the way to go. Keep in mind that the choice of chocolate will define the result; a bittersweet chocolate, around 70% cocoa solids, will balance the sweetness of the sugar syrup and keep the chocolate flavour front and centre. We recommend any couverture you’d be happy to eat as a block, but play around and find the chocolate you like. A little cocoa powder will also add a bit more body and a deep, rich colour. The rest is simple: heat, stir and pour…

Why write a book about bread and butter? What makes such a humble pairing, and ostensibly a minor event of the day, become a match worthy of such deep exploration? For starters there are few pairings eaten so frequently, and even fewer so entrenched in such a variety of global cultures. Other pairings may complement each other perfectly – think pea and mint, beef and horseradish, tomato and basil, ham and mustard – but none of them create quite the same “ah-ha” moment as bread and butter. Bread and butter has existed for such a long time, and they’re truly global products. There’s the Polish celebration of nowe latko, where bread figurines of a man with a bobble cap surrounded by eight geese are made to encourage abundance in the…

Helen Anderson, travel editor; Antarctic Peninsula Every moment on an Antarctic voyage (in this case aboard Ponant’s Le Soléal) is precious – every whale breach, every penguin parade, every iceberg awesome, in the true sense of that overused word. @handersonglobal David Matthews, senior editor; Hakuba, Japan Fifty centimetres of overnight snowfall in Hakuba means first tracks at any of the resort’s 10 zones. Cutting up the powder, of course, comes first, photos second. @matthematical_ Harriet Davidson, editorial coordinator; Cottage Point, NSW This was the GT team’s “view from the office” when we headed off on a road trip to film a series of videos featuring the new Mazda CX-5. @harriet.olive…

Pussy cat, Tasmanian-style. Sweet and sour cane-toad legs. Fox tikka masala. Roast camel stuffed with goat and pheasants. Not your typical recipes, but then Eat the Problem isn’t a typical cookbook. Its author, curator and artist Kirsha Kaechele, calls her 544-page book an “artwork”. Its publisher, the outré Hobart institution MONA, calls it “a surrealist compendium of food and art”. It features “recipes” for cooking, eating and thinking about pests, along with poetry, essays and interviews that “reimagine what we think of as invasive”. Contributors include chefs (Enrique Olvera, Dominique Crenn and Heston Blumenthal among them), writers, scientists and artists, including Tim Minchin, James Turrell and Marina Abramovic. Kaechele traces the project to 2013 when she staged zero-waste markets on the museum’s roof. “We asked all the food-stall chefs to…

1967 Scales Jostedalsbreen Glacier in Norway. 1969 Leads the first hovercraft expedition along the Nile. 1979-82 Leads the Transglobe Expedition, the first global circumnavigation along the polar axis by surface travel. 1991 Co-leads a team that discovers the lost city of Ubar in Oman. 1992-93 Crosses the Antarctic continent unsupported, the longest such polar journey in history at the time. 2000 Suffers frostbite to four fingertips and a thumb while travelling solo to the North Pole. He later amputates the fingers in his garden shed. 2003 Runs seven marathons in seven days on seven continents. 2007 Climbs the north face of the Eiger. 2009 Reaches the summit of Everest. 2015 Runs the ultra Marathon des Sables in the Sahara Desert. 2016 Climbs the highest mountain in Europe (Mount Elbrus, Russia),…

You had me at heritage-listed 1930s bathing pavilion in Williamstown. Add a restaurateur with runs on the board (Dave Parker of Neptune, San Telmo and Pastuso, among others) and a fondness for San Sebastian’s pintxos bars, and we’re deep into hell-yeah territory. Even with this western bayside suburb’s track record of producing disappointing restaurants, expectations at Sebastian are as high as the potential of dashed hopes. Good news then that expectations win the day. The first encouraging hint arrives with the chistorra, chef Leigh Robbins’s house-made version of the classic Basque sausage. It’s superb, cooked over charcoal, and flavoured with pimento, juniper, fennel and cumin. There’s plenty of fat and salt in the pork to keep things juicy and full-flavoured, and the accompanying syrupy cider reduction, accented with star anise…

When Jen Lo first began making chocolate, she used the cheapest ingredients she could find: blocks of Old Gold, Dream bars, whatever she could get at Woolworths – if it was half price, it went in her basket. She taught herself to temper with instructions on the Cadbury website and made chocolates that didn’t set properly so the ganache oozed out. That was then. These days at Bakedown Cakery, the business Lo launched four years ago and turned into a bricks-and-mortar shop in Sydney in 2017, the chocolate is couverture, the ganache stays put, and she’s long had her tempering technique down. “I went to the Australian Patisserie Academy to do a crash course in chocolate-making and found out I was doing it all wrong,” she says. Rather than discount…

Salted caramel only has four ingredients, is simple to make and has many uses. It does, however, require a little care and attention. For starters, there are two ways to make caramel: the wet method, which begins with sugar and water, and the dry method, which uses only sugar. A wet caramel has its place (it’s great for hard-set toffees, for example), but for a butterscotch-style sauce like this, I prefer dry. The dry method is also easier. There tends to be a fear with caramel that it might crystallise and seize up. Thing is, that only happens with the wet method, and then, only if you stir it; with dry it’s not a concern, you’re just melting and caramelising sugar. I take mine to the edge of burning because…

Nick Stanton has been busy. The chef’s new restaurant in Carlton, Leonardo’s Pizza Palace, opened just before Christmas and has been swamped from day one. He’s also re-inventing his South Yarra restaurant Ramblr, heading to the US on a fact-finding mission, and is getting ready to “push boundaries” at Leonardo’s with a new Italian-Australian focus. No wonder he’s so happy Easter is coming. “It’s a great time of year for chefs,” he says. “You’ve come out of the hustle of Christmas and things slow down a bit. It’s always a good time for me to gather some friends at my house to catch up and relax over a long lunch.” The menu in the following pages is based on some of the dishes Stanton serves at Leonardo’s combined with a…

The most important thing to remember when maintaining a starter is routine and temperature. This is a living thing, and like all living things it needs to be treated as such. It needs regular feeding to survive, it needs warmth when required, and if it’s feeling lazy, it needs encouragement. Ideally, you feed your starter every day, but every starter has a slightly different routine and you’ll get to know what suits yours over time. To feed the starter measure out 1 tablespoon of your sourdough starter and discard the rest. Then add equal parts water and flour to the tablespoon of starter; use 40ml water, 20gm bread flour and 20gm wholemeal flour. Day 1 In a jar, mix 100ml warm water with 50gm bread flour and 50gm wholemeal flour.…

Getting there Emirates and Etihad fly one stop to Cairo from select Australian cities. Travelling in Egypt is most comfortable between October and May when temperatures are cooler across the country. The summer months (June to September) are hot but there are fewer visitors and prices are lower. Getting around Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent specialises in private and small-group safaris to Egypt. The tour described here is part of the 14-day Portrait of Egypt private journey; it includes stays in Cairo, Luxor, Aswan and Alexandria with a four-night cruise aboard the Sanctuary Sun Boat IV. It costs from $10,355 per person twin share, and includes breakfast daily, all meals during the cruise, six extra lunches, domestic flights, sightseeing with private Egyptologists, transfers and entrance fees. 1300 590 317,…

Getting there Emirates flies from all major Australian cities to Dubai with connections to Zurich, which is much closer to Austria’s Arlberg region than Vienna. The drive to the Arlberg takes about two hours, or take the train from Zurich to Bregenz, the capital of Vorarlberg state. emirates.com Stay & eat Rote Wand This 53-room “gourmet hotel” lends a chic edge to the sleepy village of Zug, with a choice of family apartments and suites in six buildings, a sophisticated main restaurant and bar, the 1,500-square-metre Red Spa, and the Schualhus’s impressive chef’s table run by Max Natmessnig. Zug 5, Lech am Arlberg, rotewand.com Hotel Gasthof Post Elegant rooms, an indoor-outdoor pool with stunning mountain views, full spa, organised activities and fine dining are highlights. And tremendous hosts in Sandra…

Bacar Drawn by the sunshine and surf, Japanese hipsters flock to Okinawa for a cosmopolitan life by the sea. A popular hangout is Bacar (above), a busy pizzeria where the Tokyo-trained chef turns out excellent incarnations of Margherita and marinara pizze. Sit at the outdoor tables on summer nights when Negronis fuel conversations into the late hours. 3-16-15 Kumoji, +81 98 863 5678 Sushi Izumi A charming husband-and-wife team attentively serve Edo-style sushi to nine diners at a time using local bounty, including bigeye tuna, buttery clams and steamed tiger prawns. There’s no English spoken and there’s no menu, either; you’ll be happy to take your chances on the catch of the day served alongside traditional favourites such as Japanese horse mackerel and sun-dried tilefish. 2 Chome-1-10 Tomari, +81 98…

A food lover’s greatest-hits journey by private jet across southern Australia ticks a lot of boxes in less than two weeks: private tours and long lunches at wineries in three states, shucking oysters at Coffin Bay, fine dining on Kangaroo Island and in Hobart, and whistlestops in Kalgoorlie and Coonawarra along the way. Captain’s Choice’s 13-day “Gourmet Trail of the Southern Coast” departs Perth on 14 September and ends in Hobart. It’s one of several free-range private-jet itineraries of Australia launched by the luxury travel company this year. captainschoice.com.au Ecuador’s ancient Nacional cacao was decimated by fungal disease in 1916 and thought to be extinct in its pure form, until its rediscovery in a remote valley. Since 2013, To’ak has produced limited-edition heirloom chocolate aged in casks – its Art…

Conventional notions of wellness are broadened in a collection of small-group journeys designed by luxury travel operator Abercrombie & Kent. “They’re about a balance of cultural appreciation and an unhurried pace that allows guests full immersion in some of our favourite destinations,” says A&K’s Sujata Raman. Commune with shamans and ayurvedic doctors, hike in cloud forests and visit sustainable community projects on journeys in India, Southeast Asia, Kenya and Peru. Departures between October and December. abercrombiekent.com.au The expeditionary expansion of French luxury cruise line Ponant gathers pace with the launch this month of its third Explorer-class ship, Le Bougainville , and another in August, Le Dumont-d’Urville . The nine-ship fleet embarks on nearly 40 new itineraries this year. au.ponant.com…

NSW Ben Devlin has left Paper Daisy to open his first solo venture, Pipit, in the Northern Rivers town of Pottsville. Likely menu highlights include grilled oyster with macadamia milk noodles and hot sauce, and mud crab in bunya-nut tortillas. Devlin says the wine list will be sourced from Australian producers growing grapes within 150 kilometres of the sea. Can you solve the world’s problems with a morning coffee or lunchtime cravings? Sydney’s Portal hopes so. Its profits go to charities that help achieve the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. The CBD café’s menu, by Mecca’s Michal Siudeja, includes poached chicken buns with miso mayonnaise and cabbage, apple and coriander slaw, and chai delivered by bicycle by its creator, Stew Taylor. MELBOURNE More than three decades after opening his first…

Awarta Nusa Dua Resort & Villas In the enclave of Nusa Dua in Bali’s south-east, Awarta is distinguished by its focus on Indonesian-Chinese Peranakan heritage and style. In a lush garden compound are 14 one-, two- and three-bedroom villas filled with Peranakan-style timber furniture and Chinese lacquered artworks. All villas have butlers, outdoor bathing pavilions and big pools. After a session at Awarta’s private beach club, guests head to the all-day diner, The Long Table, or for dinner in its Chinese restaurant. awartaresorts.com Capella Ubud Resort designer Bill Bensley has imagined a 19th-century expeditionary camp in the Balinese jungle, set on four hectares of vertiginous rice terraces and rainforest in the Keliki Valley, about 25 minutes’ drive north of Ubud. Guests are handed a “survival kit” (insect repellent, poncho, ear…

What memories of food do you have from your childhood in Malaysia? At that age, you think food is food. You don’t realise that people make dishes in different ways. I would see my aunts, uncles and grandmothers do versions of the same dishes. When my aunt cooks the stuff that she used to cook when I was younger, it brings back the same memories. There’s a certain way she cooked chicken and potatoes, there’s a certain way she cooked spinach. Right now, it’s making me hungry. You moved to Melbourne to study law, which inspired your sitcom Ronny Chieng: International Student . What did you eat on campus? My palate was much more simple. We were eating such crap, everything was “good”. It was all about…

ONE TO WATCH Darraweit Valley Apple and Pear Cider, Macedon Ranges, $11.50 A new name on the craft cider scene: a refreshing, gently rustic cider that combines the tart dryness of apple and the fruitiness of pear. facebook.com/darraweitvalleycider PURE EXPRESSION 2018 Blue Poles/Amato Vino Lost on Mars, Margaret River, $30 A terrific expression of the marsanne grape: 30 per cent skin contact and fermentation in amphora lends a savoury quality to the variety’s trademark honeysuckle tang. amatovino.com.au SNAP TO IT 2015 One Block Yellingbo Shiraz, Yarra Valley, $40 This is about as good as Yarra Valley shiraz gets. Bold purple colour in the glass, gorgeous perfume of prickly bramble and peppery spice, deliciously supple and snappy and bright in the mouth. oneblock.com.au SPRITZ IN A CAN Chapel Hill Americano Vermouth…

At the end of the world – behind the mountains of discarded cat-eye sunglasses, Gen-Z yellow dresses, chunky dad sneakers, bike shorts once worn with blazers, bum bags and Birkenstocks, past the unclothed tables, chilled reds, skin-contact whites, queues out the front, kingfish crudo and jars of house-made XO sauce – we’ll still have Est serving $45 entrées and offering complimentary dessert with a $95 glass of Château d’Yquem. The world could be burning outside and the waitstaff wouldn’t miss a beat, calmly pouring flutes of Blanc de Blancs from the Champagne trolley and checking the creases in the linen to the very last. Food and fashion can be a funny thing. Knowing whether to stick or twist isn’t easy when being new so often takes precedence over being good.…

ETHICALLY MINDED Raw, vegan, made without additives, organically farmed, or sustainably sourced. Who said that chocolate couldn’t taste good and feel good too? INDULGENT MAXIMALIST Fans of the more-is-more approach will be right at home among these full-throttle flavours. THE VISUAL CREATIVE Turns out you can judge a chocolate by its cover. THE EXPERIMENTALIST For those seeking exotic combinations, provocative textures and something a little different.…

• Have ingredients weighed ready go you start. Once the sugar begins to caramelise, your attention should be squarely on the pan in front of you. For this caramel sauce it’s 300gm caster sugar, 250gm cream, 50gm chilled diced butter and 1 tsp salt flakes. • Use a large, deep pan; the caramel will start to bubble and spit once the cream is added and it’s incredibly hot. • Make sure your butter is cold. This will help prevent the sauce from splitting and ensure the end result is nice and smooth. • Unless you want a new spatula, use a wooden spoon to stir the sugar – some spatulas can melt into the hot caramel.…

Cauliflower and cheese SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 1 HR Three cheeses and added crunch from crisp breadcrumbs elevate an all-time classic. 1 small cauliflower (about 1kg), cut into florets and thickly sliced 25 gm butter 25 gm plain flour 400 ml milk 1 tsp Dijon mustard 100 ml pouring cream 100 gm coarsely grated Gruyère 80 gm coarsely grated cheddar 50 gm finely grated parmesan 120 gm coarse sourdough breadcrumbs 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional), to serve 1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Blanch cauliflower in a large saucepan of boiling salted water (2 minutes; see cook’s notes p152). Drain and leave to steam dry, then transfer to a 1.9-litre baking dish. 2 Meanwhile, melt butter in a saucepan over medium…

APT Board Australia’s most-awarded luxury European river cruise. 2019 and 2020 dates for all-inclusive cruises are out now. The 15-day Magnificent Europe tour starts from $6,995 twin share. aptouring.com.au/eumcr15 Australian Pork Chefs have long loved Australian pork for its versatility. This year PorkStar celebrates the Lunar Year of the Pig with favourite pork dishes from talented chefs. Visit pork.com.au for recipes. Avalon Waterways Tuscany has all the ingredients for a perfect holiday with its hilltop villages, lush vineyards and romantic valleys. Indulge your senses on the Gourmet Tuscany tour. From $1,959. cosmostours.com.au Ilve The Artusi Built-In BBQ in Stainless Steel includes four burners, a cast-iron plate and two ribbed griddle plates. It maximises space, allowing the alfresco area to feel like a second kitchen. $2,699. ilve.com.au Holland America Line From…

Churaumi Aquarium Located on a peaceful peninsula about an hour’s drive from the city, this aquarium showcases the aquatic life found in the Ryukyu archipelago. A highlight is the Kuroshio Sea tank, where a pair of whale sharks is part of a program aimed at breeding the fish successfully in captivity. 424 Ishikawa, Motobu-cho, churaumi.okinawa/en Loisir Hotel With Naha’s only natural hot-spring spa and a swimming pool designed by Hanae Mori, one of Japan’s most celebrated designers, this hotel is so compelling you may be tempted not to venture to the beaches nearby. The spacious rooms offer sunset views over the East China Sea and, on a clear day, the Kerama Islands. 3 Chome-2-1 Nishi, solarehotels.com Okinawans are among the longest-lived people on Earth. Learn more about their diet at…

Heart of glass This handmade Riedel decanter is not only elegant but practical, too. It’s perfect for Champagne or the more mature wines from your cellar. Santé. Riedel Decanter Amadeo Fatto a Mano, $629.95, riedel.com Keep it cool Gaggenau’s new wine climate cabinet has three independently controlled temperature zones to keep riesling crisp or red just cool enough for your next dinner party. Gaggenau Wine Climate Cabinet, $15,499, gaggenau.com.au SHINE BRIGHT As we head into the cooler months, candles can help bring warmth to darker evenings. Create a cosy atmosphere with this Gucci candle, which has relaxing scents of orange and birch. Gucci Fumus Medium Star Eye Candle, $620, gucci.com Award-winning artist Craig Ruddy takes inspiration from his surroundings and the people in it. This bright painting, Sunshine, was inspired…

Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au The Bay Tree (02) 9328 1101, thebaytree.com.au Cos cosstores.com/au Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au David Jones 1800 354 663, davidjones.com.au Di Lorenzo (02) 9698 8737, dilorenzo.com.au Dior (02) 9295 9022, dior.com Emily Belle Ellis 0439 401 271 Hale Mercantile Co (03) 9939 1267, halemercantileco.com Hayden Youlley Design haydenyoulley.com Jardan (02) 9663 4500, jardan.com.au Lightly (03) 9348 9520, lightly.com.au Longines (03) 8844 3300, longines.com.au Maison Balzac maisonbalzac.com Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com Mud Australia (02) 9569 8181, mudaustralia.com Net-a-Porter net-a-porter.com Pared Eyewear paredeyewear.com Porter’s Paints 1800 656 664, porterspaints.com Rag & Bone rag-bone.com Splendid Wren Ceramics splendidwrenceramics.com Surface Gallery surfacegallery.com.au Tera Nova Tiles teranova.com.au Tiffany & Co 1800 829 152, tiffany.com.au Top3 by Design 1300 867 333, top3.com.au Uashmama uashmama.com.au West Elm westelm.com.au Wheel & Barrow wheelandbarrow.com.au Williams Sonoma williams-sonoma.com.au Zanui zanui.com.au This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our…

Salted caramel and chocolate tart SERVES 10-12 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS RESTING, CHILLING) 150 gm butter, diced, at room temperature 100 gm pure icing sugar 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 30 gm (¼ cup) almond meal 1 egg 250 gm (1⅔ cups) plain flour, sifted CARAMEL FILLING 105 gm caster sugar 50 gm liquid glucose 210 ml pouring cream 1 titanium-strength gelatine leaf 65 gm chilled butter, diced 2 tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra to serve DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE 250 gm dark chocolate (66%-70% cocoa solids; preferably Valrhona), finely chopped 310 ml pouring cream 30 gm liquid glucose 65 gm cold butter, diced 1 For pastry, beat butter, icing sugar and vanilla in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until…

Salted caramel and chocolate tart “I’d love to recreate my favourite tart from Bistro Guillaume for my next dinner party. Could you please print the recipe?” Melissa Davies, Balmain, NSW REQUEST A RECIPE // TO REQUEST A RECIPE, EMAIL FAREEXCHANGE@BAUER-MEDIA.COM.AU…