Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 i Gourmet Traveller

The Cunard line called on US health-spa specialist Canyon Ranch to design its “holistic” onboard spa, part of a royal makeover aboard Queen Elizabeth. The 2,081-passenger ship is sailing a record 54 days in Australian waters, until the end of March, and features several Australian partnerships. Bellboys are dressed by RM Williams and Akubra, the Australian Dance Theatre performs, and there’s the guest appearance of a 225-litre barrel of Starward whisky, named The Seafarer and distilled in Melbourne, which has spent the past year maturing on the open deck of Queen Elizabeth. The ship’s Mareel spa (pictured) features sound therapy in treatment rooms, and a meditation room with vibrating loungers, “binaural brain-wave music” and “hypnagogic meditative visuals”. cunardline.com.au…

After World War II, your parents ended up in Australia at the Bonegilla migrant camp, near the Victorian/NSW border. Do you recall your early years there? In general, kids don’t remember anything under the age of six, except for a few special memories. The story was that we got one egg a week, and they gave that egg to me. That’s what parents do for their kids. The food wasn’t particularly good, but it was food. And there was nobody trying to kill us. So it was a very good place to be. Your parents came from Poland. What did you eat at home? I remember having brown bread with halwa on it. Nobody had brown bread – everybody else had white bread. And nobody knew what halwa was. So…

A warm bowl of al dente noodles smothered in a rich sauce – what’s not to love? Chef and food writer Tony Tan refers to the dish, which has origins in Shandong province, as “Beijing noodles with Chinese Bolognese sauce,” but the literal translation is “fried sauce noodles”. Zhajiang, a soybean paste, is the typical base for said fried sauce – the most commonly seen uses sweet fermented yellow soy beans – and the end product is thick, rich and full of flavour. Variations abound, however; ketchup is common in the Hong Kong version, for example. Whatever your flavour, stir it all up and slurp away. THE TOPPINGS Coriander and thinly sliced cucumber tend to top the dish, but take it up a notch with spring onions or green soy…

Do not neglect the snacks at Kazuki’s. They may be an optional add-on to the set-course menus, but it would be foolish to bypass them. Do so, and you’d miss the thin crisp of kipfler potato topped with cultured cream and sea urchin roe. Or a Goolwa pipi, served cool and raw and wearing nothing but a subtle hint of soy and wispy strands of pickled ginger. The kitchen may well send out a Moreton Bay bug dumpling sitting on pickled cucumbers under a cloud of foamed sake butter as a little extra, but the long crisp of fried nori topped with cod-roe paste, salmon caviar marinated in soy and sake, and light sprinklings of sea-lettuce powder, that’s only on the snacks menu. So too a chicken-liver-parfait profiterole filled with…

Jake Kellie at Sunda Jake Kellie, from Singapore’s Burnt Ends, teams up with Sunda’s Khanh Nguyen at a one-off dinner where contemporary Southeast Asian and modern-Australian techniques will be fused with indigenous ingredients, all cooked over specialty woods. All The Chickens Morgan McGlone from Belles Hot Chicken has put together a night where the only thing on the menu is chicken. Chicken-loving chefs Matt Abergel (Hong Kong’s Yardbird), Palisa Anderson (Chat Thai), Paul Carmichael (Momofuku Seiobo), Thi Le (Anchovy) and Trisha Greentree (ex-Brae) will be exploring new takes on traditional chicken dishes such as yakitori, jerk chicken and Hainanese chicken rice. McGlone will be eschewing his famed fried birds for a take on the Hawaiian dish, huli-huli chicken. MFWF The Village Feast The tiny Gippsland town of Jindivick (population 500)…

Chicken satay SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 10 MINS Marinated chicken skewers with satay sauce for dipping are equally good for a quick weeknight meal or for pleasing a crowd. The quick sauce has the dual benefit of being both fast and not compromising on flavour. A winner every time. 800 gm skinless chicken breast, cut into thin slices, or chicken thigh cut into 2cm pieces 3 tsp finely grated ginger 2 tsp finely grated turmeric 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp peanut oil, for drizzling Coconut milk, for brushing Lime wedges or charred lime wedges, for squeezing Vietnamese mint leaves, to serve QUICK SATAY SAUCE 120 gm crunchy peanut butter 2 tbsp tamarind extract (see note) 1 tbsp light…

Tomato and burrata with smoked bottarga, finger lime, toasted buckwheat and marjoram SERVES 4 “This is my take on the seasonal favourite, tomato and burrata salad,” says Ori Menashe. “Using cinnamon in the vinaigrette brings out the inherent warmth that tomatoes capture while ripening in the sun. The finger lime and toasted buckwheat add texture, while the bottarga and marjoram finish it with a much-needed savoury note.” Pictured p115. 11/2 tsp buckwheat 450 gm heirloom tomatoes (any seasonal mixture), small ones halved, larger ones cut into bite-sized wedges 170 gm burrata, broken into large pieces Pearls of 1 finger lime (see note), or 1/8 tsp finely grated lemon zest Leaves from 2 marjoram sprigs 10 gm piece bottarga (see note) CINNAMON VINAIGRETTE 60 ml (1/4 cup) Champagne vinegar 1 tsp…

Fried rice with dried shrimp and green mango “The fried rice at Kingdom of Rice was my absolute favourite, but now that their pop-up is finished I’ll have to make my own – could you please print the recipe?” Francis Parker, Alexandria, NSW REQUEST A RECIPE // TO REQUEST A RECIPE, EMAIL FAREEXCHANGE@BAUER-MEDIA.COM.AU…

Laura Jacobs, junior designer; Rottnest Island, WA An early swim, quick fish for whiting and a successful morning pulling up craypots was the Christmas Day I had dreamt of all year. Lunch is served. @laurajanejacobs Emma Holland, subeditor; Uluru, NT Sunrise hikes, intense heat, vivid blue skies and twilight purples. A magical trip to the Outback proved the ultimate escape from the city. @_emmajholland Matthew Hirsch, contributor; Sacred Valley, Peru Even shaggy alpacas roaming the verdant stretches of Peru’s aptly named Sacred Valley are hungry for their 15 minutes of Instagram fame. @il_vagabondo…

“For a long time, Ballarat suffered from being too close to Melbourne,” says Simon Coghlan, a local boy and co-owner of a new boutique hotel in the Victorian goldfields city. “Now we’re really standing on our own two feet, with so much heritage but also a critical mass of artisans and entrepreneurs and a rich cultural life.” Only 75 minutes by express train from Melbourne and 90 minutes (“on a good day”) by car, The Provincial Hotel is located opposite the city’s train station on historic Lydiard Street, making it a car-free getaway from the Victorian capital. Coghlan, his wife and TV host Gorgi, and business partner Drew Harry opened the hotel late last year after extensive renovation to 23 suites and a stylish ground-floor restaurant and bar named Lola,…

What’s your favourite place for a quick food fix? Pierre Roelofs, pastry chef (pierreroelofs.com): Pita pockets from vegetarian Israeli bar Tahina in Melbourne’s Northcote. They are quick, delicious, satisfying and pretty healthy. Rachael Trewin, A1 Canteen (a1canteen.com.au): Saray Turkish in Enmore for a pide and chicken salt chips, Fatima’s in Redfern for a falafel kebab. Donato Toce, Gelato Messina (gelatomessina.com): I love burgers and in Sydney I am spoilt for choice. When I’m travelling in the US, though, my fave burgers are Five Guys. Alanna Sapwell, Arc (howardsmithwharves.com): I like Bunnings for its sausages, Bird’s Nest in South Brisbane for its yakitori and delicious drops, and Kingsfood Sunnybank for its great variety of food. What’s been your best fast food experience? Pierre Roelofs: Short eats in Sri Lanka: a huge…

Something that I have learned and would love to pass on is that jam cannot be rushed. Jam recipes might seem short on the page, but they’re designed to stretch time – from when you first create an idea for a new flavour combination to when you pop the lid off the jar as long as two years later and spread it on your toast. I have created recipes to be lingered over, ones that inspire and give you confidence to be a little more adventurous in the preserving kitchen. There is true spiritual pleasure to be had from jam. It isn’t just a twee or fusty undertaking – for me, jam is all about exploration, discovery and harmony. Peach and fig leaf jam  MAKES ABOUT 1.7 LITRES JAM Ensure…

The glass of gamay I’m drinking is delicious. It was produced by Andrew Nielsen, an Australian winemaker who works in Burgundy and sells wine under the highly regarded Le Grappin label. It’s full of lipsmacking purple fruit, perfect with the succulent lamb on my plate here at Clipstone, one of London’s best new bistros. It’s a very classy drink. And it only cost me five quid a glass because it was poured on tap, from a keg. Nielsen is one of a growing number of winemakers servicing the restaurant trade in the UK and around the world with kegs, as more and more establishments install systems for pouring wine on tap. Nielsen also sells 1.5-litre plastic pouches (with a tap) of Beaujolais, Burgundy and Côtes du Rhône called Bagnums: upmarket…

Stir-fried okra SERVES 2 Okra, also known as ladies’ fingers, divides people – some love it, and others hate it for its mucilaginous quality. Stir-frying it briefly, however, means the okra is less slimy in texture, and it’s also fast and delicious. Look for bright green pods with no blemishes and tips that will snap off like fresh green beans. 250 gm okra 2 tbsp vegetable oil 10 gm (2cm) ginger, finely chopped 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped 1 long red chilli, seeds removed, thinly sliced 2 tbsp chicken stock or water 1 tbsp light soy sauce ¼ tsp caster sugar, or to taste Coarsely chopped coriander, to serve 1 Blanch okra in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until bright green and crisp (10 seconds; see cook's…

Last year, in the middle of winter, our flock of four Isa Brown hens deposited a yellow cherry tomato seed on our lawn in Sydney’s inner west. Within weeks, it had become a full-grown plant and was pumping out at least two punnetfuls of the sweetest yellow cherry tomatoes every day, entirely out of season – which was nice but also faintly shaming, as my deliberate attempts to grow tomatoes in summer had failed spectacularly. Around the same time, I was served a dish at Firedoor in Surry Hills that included fresh, bouncy spring peas. Chef Lennox Hastie explained that yes, they were also out of season but a mate of his grows them in the backyard and an unusual warm spell had caused them to burst into existence months…

A group of 12 prominent Sydney chefs including Paul Carmichael from Momofuku Seiobo, Firedoor’s Tony Gibson and Black Star Pastry founder Christopher Thé, are seated at a long table 47 levels above the city at O Bar and Dining. The Sydney skyline glimmers under a soft wash of rain as the guests exchange gossip and jokes. In front of everyone is a glass of Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV. And next to that is a glass of milk. It’s not just any milk. This is deer milk. The first deer milk to be produced commercially anywhere in the world, and it’s the reason for today’s gathering. It’s not every day that an entirely new raw ingredient enters the world. “It’s almost like finding a new colour or a new music…

Celebrating vegetables in all their versatility and treating them with the reverence they deserve is Anna Del Conte’s aim in her latest cookbook, Vegetables all’Italiana. The food writer, historian and matriarch of Italian cooking in the UK, talks of when she first moved to Britain in the 1940s in an era when “most people were not interested in food of any kind” and vegetables were usually served limp and boiled, with no flavour, and then only as a side for meat or fish. At the time, she worked as an au pair for an English family that appreciated good food, and when asked one day to prepare carrots from their vegetable garden, won them over by preparing them “all’italiana” – in the everyday Italian way – chopped into thin discs,…

It started with the promise of hand-dived scallops and an honesty box for payment, and a beach scoured by Atlantic gales. During a summer holiday I spent drinking peaty whisky and ferrying between Scotland’s Hebridean islands, someone mentioned an untended shack on the far-north island of Lewis and Harris in which plump scallops appeared like magic. People have travelled further for less, I’m sure. A year later, we’re listening to the BBC news in Gaelic on a hire-car radio, following a ribbon of road that winds through lumpy peatland, past the Callanish Stones arranged thousands of years ago in some still-mysterious pattern, past the Otter Bunkhouse (for humans or otters, or both?) to a vowel-burdened place called Uig. We stop high above a beach – pale, empty and scoured by…

Visit Victoria Brown Coffee and Bar, Buenos Aires…

What did you cook while growing up in South Korea? Naengmyun (Korean cold noodles). My mother kept some packaged versions for me to make in her absence. I remember my first attempt being very challenging – far from the familiar technique of making packaged ramen. I had underestimated the intricacies of cooking. Tell us about the illustrated menu cards at your New York restaurant, Atomix. We thought dining experiences as an artform was rather too fleeting. Food – once consumed and digested – is gone. But when you have something tangible like our menu cards, it becomes a memento. The cards also convey a lot about Korean food, right? We like to detail things: a Korean cooking technique, a brief history lesson on Korean cuisine, or even a crash course…

SYDNEY Sure, Maybe Sammy is Maybe Frank’s newest sibling, but this spin-off bar in The Rocks is doing its own thing. There are theatrical cocktails: Circus Circus features a pillow that you pop, revealing one prize-winning scratchie inside, while Lady Luck includes a bonus jar of mango and passionfruit hand-cream that guests apply in between sips. Diners can try blue-corn tacos with salmon and avocado or sardines with goat’s curd. MELBOURNE Take Northcote’s Estelle Bistro, merge it with the old Estelle by Scott Pickett space next door, and you have the new Estelle. Valentin Barrere (Vue de Monde) will serve ox tongue, beetroot with smoked bone-marrow dressing as well as charred kangaroo, sweetcorn and begonia, and flounder with XO mussels and sea grapes. ADELAIDE Jock Zonfrillo works fast: Mallozzi opened…

Baillie Lodges has added tropical rainforest to its cache of high-end itineraries. Founders Hayley and James Baillie have bought their first Queensland property, the well-established Silky Oaks Lodge adjoining Daintree National Park in Far North Queensland, and will spend about $10 million on upgrades. Baillie Lodges is in expansion mode following “substantial” investment late last year by KSL, a US-based private equity company. As well as working on acquisitions, the Baillies are developing Remarkable Lodge in southern Tasmania and operating a trio of luxury lodges, on Lord Howe Island, Kangaroo Island and at Uluru. They consider the Daintree lodge a “perfect fit” for the portfolio, “offering guests a broader range of multi-lodge itineraries”.…

It would be safe to say that anyone with an appetite will be incredibly satisfied after a weekender in Wellington. Craft breweries? Tick. Hidden laneways with obscure menus? Tick. Seasonally driven kitchens based on local providores, food miles and foraging? Hard to miss. With a distinctly meatless, plant-based menu, Hillside is quite literally sitting upon a gentle hill in the suburb of Thorndon – an easy 10-minute drive or gentle walk from the CBD if you’re working up an appetite on the way. Tucked away from the main part of town, the shoebox-sized restaurant site has a well-deserved reputation for fine food, led by owner and chef Asher Boote. Since their opening in 2015, it’s been all hands on deck with Asher and the team pitching in to create the…

• Ensure your jam pan is only half-full of ingredients and no more – otherwise you risk the boiling contents overflowing. • Use a wide pan (such as a Mauviel 36cm jam pan) that’s large enough to allow maximum evaporation of liquids in the quickest time possible. • Choose unblemished ripe fruit that tastes good. • Cooking times are a rough guide and will vary slightly. • Don’t cook more than 2kg fruit at a time. • The quicker the cooking time, the better. • Don’t use hard unripe fruit because it won’t break down.…

In 1865, in south-west Pennsylvania, John Mostoller spotted a wild goose in the stream that powered his family sawmill, shot it, then took it home for his mother to cook. I’m sure she felt the mix of emotions that often accompany gifts of wild meat. Gratitude and pleasurable anticipation, accompanied by thoughts of the gory task of removing feathers, feet and innards. While gutting the goose she found a handful of unusual looking beans in its crop and saved them for planting out that spring. The resulting beans, which became known as Mostoller Wild Goose, proved delicious fresh, shelled or dried, and, as a testament to their utility, we’re still growing them 150 years later. John’s mum, Sarah Mostoller, was my kind of woman. Undoubtedly the Mostollers weren’t the first…

ROBUST RED 2017 Oliver’s Taranga Tempranillo, McLaren Vale, $32 A great example of how the tempranillo grape can produce red wines with an irresistible combination of black fruit and firm, grippy tannins. Perfect with grilled garlicky lamb. oliverstaranga.com MARTINI GIN Melbourne Gin Company Single Shot, Yarra Valley, $95 After years focusing on producing just one gin, MGC has branched out with an outstanding spirit that makes the best Martini I’ve had in years. melbournegincompany.com SPECIAL SPARKLING 2018 Bertrand Bespoke L’Ecume des Jours, Central Victoria, $36 This excellent pét-nat is a blend of white and red grapes, which are brought together to produce a sparkling wine that’s both crunchy-apple refreshing and savoury-nut satisfying. maisonlapalus.com WILD THING 2018 Stargazer Riesling, Tasmania, $38 Beautiful expression of wild-fermented Tasmanian riesling from a single vineyard…

David McMillan never leaves you wondering. The co-chef and co-owner of Montréal restaurant Joe Beef, in Australia for the first time for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, is a man of strong and blunt opinions that he’s not shy about sharing. There is, for instance, his take on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. “It’s something I have a problem with,” he says. “It’s highly élitist restaurants for the richest, most well-travelled, most sophisticated one per cent of the world. That’s not my goal; I don’t want that to be my life. I want to enjoy cooking – I don’t want a chef in a white vest screaming at me or working for me. I don’t want to work in even a top 1,000 restaurant. I don’t abide by that…

Casey Wall has a thing for Italian-American food. And the American-born chef and co-owner of Melbourne’s Carlton restaurant Capitano, where he’s built a menu around it, reckons it’s ideal for fast home cooking. He should know. “Italian-American cooking, particularly in places like New York and New Jersey, has a strong Sicilian influence so a lot of dishes start with a flexible base like passata,” he says. “Once you have the base things on hand, you can make a variety of dishes that are all quick to cook.” To this end, Wall has included a quick and versatile tomato sauce to go with the recipes he’s supplied for this month’s issue. “I’m not a fan of bought passata and pasta sauces, and this recipe brings the freshness and vibrancy of in-season…

I’ve never been too comfortable talking about my cooking because I hope, in a way, that it can speak for itself. That has always been the idea, making food that doesn’t require much explanation to convey emotion. That said, of course there is a story behind it. As many who have ended up here can tell you, New York is a generous town – the sense of community, the nerve the city breeds in you, the drive that most of us share. This is where I met restaurateur Thomas Carter, who was looking for his next project. He knew of a space downtown that I knew in its previous incarnation as the Knitting Factory nightclub. There was nothing fancy or grand about it, but we loved the location and wanted…

Getting there Emirates, Qatar and British Airways fly one-stop to Edinburgh from select Australian cities. Caledonian MacBrayne operates regular car ferries between the Scottish mainland and the Hebridean islands. Loganair flies between Glasgow and Islay, and from both Glasgow and Edinburgh to the island of Lewis and Harris. Stay The Edinburgh Grand The neo-classical former National Bank of Scotland has been transformed into 50 luxe apartments and The Register Club, a cocktail bar, games room and snug, with splendid original features. 42 St Andrew Sq, Edinburgh, lateralcity.com Islay House A private estate since 1677, this charming boutique hotel with a serious whisky bar is surrounded by a community garden and Bridgend Woods. Bridgend, Islay, islayhouse.co.uk Lews Castle This 19th-century gothicrevival castle set in a 270-hectare estate has chic apartments upstairs, and a…

SHOP The intersection of Cuba and Ghuznee streets is the city’s axis of hip, where indie boutiques sell unique fashion, accessories and homewares. Precinct 35 (precinct35.co.nz) features one-off ceramics and objets d’art; Deadly Ponies (deadlyponies.com; pictured) has a cult following for its leather bags and wallets; and Hunters and Collectors (huntersandcollectors.net.nz) is vintage-fashion heaven. Don’t miss Chef Monique Fiso delves deep into Maori cooking techniques and native ingredients (pictured) at Hiakai, featuring the likes of a granita of the indigenous herb horopito atop local oysters, and mamaku fronds as petits fours. hiakai.co.nz SEE Street art Wellington’s art scene is access-all-areas. Creative highlights of a city stroll include artist Xoë Hall’s mural of David Bowie on Ghuznee Street (above); a protest against shark finning on Cable Street’s Shark Wall; and Wharehoka…

Tyrrell’s Wines Hunter Valley Shiraz Throughout the barbecue season, what better wine to serve than Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Shiraz. It’s perfect to enjoy on a balmy evening. $25. tyrrells.com.au Ponant Yacht Cruises and Expeditions Luxury cruise company Ponant offers over 400 small-ship voyages worldwide from the Kimberley to Antarctica. Book your first cruise and receive a discount of $1,600. au.ponant.com Parisi The dual-spray Newform Libera kitchen mixer comes in a copper-satin finish with a new anti-fingerprint opaque finish. It’s available in seven exclusive metal colours and is made in Italy. $1,495. parisi.com.au Liebherr Love entertaining? A Liebherr refrigerator and wine cellar has you covered. The BioFresh compartment keeps fruit and vegetables fresh for longer so it’s easier to plan ahead. $15,228. home.liebherr.com India Tourism Singapore Travel to India and enjoy…

Alexandria Tiles alexandriatiles.com.au Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au Brett Stone utopiaartsydney.com.au Byrnt Ceramics byrntceramics.com Chanel 1300 242 635, chanel.com Chef vs Clay djm.ceramics@gmail.com Chloé chloe.com Chuchu chuchu.net.au Città cittadesign.com Collective Sol collectivesol.com.au Dior (02) 9295 9022, dior.com Emily Ziz emilyziz.com Glicks Furniture glicksfurniture.com.au Hale Mercantile Co (03) 9939 1267, halemercantileco.com Heart in Ceramics 0403 210 302, etsy.com/shop/heartinceramics In Bed inbedstore.com Inartisan inartisan.com Jac + Jack (02) 9380 6630, jacandjack.com Jardan (02) 9663 4500, jardan.com.au Lee Matthews (02) 9997 3787, leemathews.com.au Little White Dish littlewhitedish.com.au Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com Meadowlark meadowlark.com.au Net-a-Porter net-a-porter.com Riedel (02) 9966 0033, riedelglass.com.au Seed & Sprout seedsprout.com.au Spiegelau (02) 9966 0033, spiegelau.com.au Splendid Wren Ceramics splendidwrenceramics.com Studio Alm studioalm.com Thonet 1800 800 777, thonet.com.au Top3 by Design 1300 867 333, top3.com.au Witchery 1800 640 249, witchery.com.au Young Vessels and Object 0402 971 999 This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including…

Fried rice with dried shrimp and green mango SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS 2 tbsp vegetable oil 25 gm (5cm) ginger, finely grated 6 garlic cloves, finely grated 700 gm snake beans, thinly sliced 100 gm garlic chives, cut into batons 2 long red chillies, thinly sliced 80 gm dried shrimp 600 gm cold day-old steamed long-grain rice (about 300gm uncooked) 100 ml light soy sauce 20 gm caster sugar 1 tsp MSG (optional; see note) 1 green mango, cut into julienne “The salty, oceanic taste of the shrimp with the sour-sweetness of the green mango, a little heat from the chilli and plenty of texture make this a complete dish.” 1 Heat a wok over high heat. Add vegetable oil, ginger and garlic,…