Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2016 i Gourmet Traveller

SEAFOOD BARBECUE Barbecued prawns with brown butter and tamari (PICTURED; RECIPE P32) Grouper with white bean salad and coriander crema (RECIPE P113) Grilled corn with whipped sesame butter, lime and coriander (RECIPE P39) Lime tart with lime caramel (RECIPE P113) You could play it safe and choose familiar, foolproof whites for this barbecue such as a lime-juicy young Clare riesling, a classic match for prawns. Or be adventurous and try orange or skin-contact whites: they’re delicious with nutty or umami-rich ingredients such as sesame and tamari. AUSTRALIA DAY BARBECUE Burgers with pickled beetroot (RECIPE P36) Barbecued tomahawk with tomato relish (PICTURED; RECIPE P105) Coleslaw (RECIPE P88) Blueberry and coconut ice-cream sandwiches (RECIPE P39) Straya Day barbie, ma-aate! Chuck a few stubbies of VB in the Esky and a nice bottle…

GRILLED LOBSTER At Aussie-Chinese chef Lance Seeto’s new restaurant at Fiji’s Mana Island Resort there’s no gas or electricity, just fire. At WAR (Wild and Raw), Seeto creates brilliant modern dishes like this: slivers of lobster meat are grilled quickly over charcoal, then teamed with lobster ice-cream made with coconut cream, and topped with pickled lime. Heavenly. WAR, Mana Island Resort, Mana Island, Fiji. +679 665 0423. MICHAEL HARDEN RATHER A LOT OF COW There was lots of good stuff to eat at the latest Rootstock outing in Sydney, but the most memorable dish was undoubtedly the whole belted Galloway cooked over charcoal for 22 hours by Africola chef Duncan Welgemoed. It’s not often enough you see a forklift put to good use in cooking, but that’s the magic of…

GUTS AND GLORY Fungi, fermented food and scientists talking microscopic critters are all part of the gut-themed plan for the MONA Marketplace, MoMa, which opens in conjunction with Hobart’s Mofo festival (13-18 January) and runs each Sunday 11am-4pm until 27 March. mona.net.au STAGE RIGHT You won’t starve at the Sydney Festival (7-26 January) with restaurants including Sokyo, Regatta and La Rosa The Strand rocking out a choice of $30, $55 and other special à la carte menus as part of the Fast Festival Feasts program. sydneyfestival.org.au CRUSHING HARD From 22-24 January 34 wineries in the Adelaide Hills (Mt Lofty Ranges Vineyard, Tomich and Petaluma among them) will open their cellar doors for the Crush festival. crush festival.com.au…

What’s your mission at The Boathouse, Colin? We’re trying to push the envelope with a lot of the lesser-known Australian species like gurnard and ocean jacket. We see the boats come in each day so we’ve got unequalled access to the catch. It’s what gets the day rolling. What are you most looking forward to dishing up in January? The mahi mahi season is getting into full swing. We’ll do a sashimi or ceviche with the small ones and we’ll roast the big 15 to 20-kilo models over yellow polenta – it gives them an amazing crust. Then there’s the bycatch of longline fishing like Ray’s bream, which we pan-fry and serve with zucchini flowers, basil and crustacean vinaigrette. What will you be barbecuing over the break? My family has…

A fortifying summer cocktail that’s as portable as it is potable. No ice? No problems. The Black Rock Chiller is an invigorating pick-me-up that can be enjoyed anywhere – even in the Nevada desert. “Gizmodo asked me to make a drink for their writer who was going to Burning Man,” says Sother Teague of bitters-centric New York cocktail bar Amor y Amargo. “The brief was ‘cooling and refreshing’, but the caveat was that they’d have no access to ice.” So how does this Negroni-ish elixir manage to taste cold without being chilled? The secret, says Teague, is a beloved Italian liqueur. “The bracing menthol of Branca Menta immediately cools the senses while the peppery and slightly citrusy tequila delivers the punch.” Amor y Amargo, 443 E 6th St, New York,…

Entrée Perfect savoury parfait Brandied duck liver pâté Prep time 20 mins, cook 15 mins Serves 6 60 gm butter 300 gm duck livers, trimmed 100 gm button mushrooms, sliced ¹/ ³ cup brandy 2 spring onions, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 125 gm cream cheese, chopped, softened 2 tsp chopped chervil, plus baby chervil to serve Melba toasts, pickled Spanish onion and cornichons, to serve 1 Place butter, livers, mushrooms, brandy, onion and garlic in the Cuisine Companion bowl fitted with the mixer. Launch P1 Slow Cook program for 12 minutes. Remove and set aside. Rinse bowl in cold water. 2 Replace the mixer with the Ultrablade. Return liver mixture to bowl along with cream cheese and chervil and season to taste. Mix at speed 12 for 30…

By some fluke you have a patch full of edible plants on the cusp of delivering their bounty. It’s hot, you’re tired and about to go on a long-anticipated holiday. Your neighbours are fed-up with pulling your garden through the month yet again, and instead use an extension hose from your tap to water their garden. It’s payback time. THE SOLUTION This scenario can easily be avoided by growing your plants in a wicking bed. A wicking bed is essentially self-watering; using a reservoir of water below to “wick” moisture through the soil to be used by the plants as they require it. Ever dipped the tip of a tissue in a glass of water? The way the moisture is drawn through the tissue is called capillary attraction and the…

Little more than a decade the idea that the ago United States could make a cheese that would proudly sit alongside the great benchmarks of Europe would have seemed risible. American cheese had a serious image problem and was considered to be a symbol of industrial evil in specialist-cheese circles But in recent years there has been an astonishing change in how the international community perceives US artisan cheese. The catalyst for this change was a cheese from Oregon’s Rogue Creamery being named best blue cheese in the world in London in 2003. After some years of diplomatic negotiations, Randolph Hodgson of Neal’s Yard Dairy was able to import this raw-milk cheese to the UK. It sold out in weeks. Today, Vermont is home to about 70 artisan cheesemakers, more…

Made Marion Andrew McConnell’s latest venture, Marion, next to Cutler & Co has an elegant fit-out combining whitewashed brick, concrete floors, leather banquettes and copper details. It’s a great fit for chef Allan Eccles’ menu, which covers the likes of sea urchin with finger lime and mussels with ’nduja on the one hand, and quality grills on the other. The wine list has around 15 wines available by the glass. Marion, 51-53 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, (03) 9419 6262 Local legend Sean Donovan’s reinvention of the Fitzroy Town Hall Hotel was completed recently, the pub emerging with a Nordic-influenced look and a menu that speaks of his preoccupation with cooking meat and seafood over charcoal. Three steaks, including a half-kilo rib-eye served with radicchio and blue cheese, plus oysters and roast…

At Cascina Eugenia, Alberto Alessi’s home at Lake Orta in Italy’s north-west, the dining table is set with a dozen chairs, each designed by a different architect. It’s a scene that reflects the Alessi philosophy – the Italian design firm is famous for an eclectic catalogue born of collaborations with designers from all over the world. Alberto’s grandfather Giovanni established Alessi in 1921 in Omegna, not far from Lake Orta, as an artisanal cold-forming metal factory that produced brass, copper and nickel tableware. In the ’30s, under the management of Alberto’s father, Carlo, the factory began moving towards mass production; when Alberto joined the company in 1970, he shifted Alessi’s focus to high-end international design collaborations. He isn’t a designer himself, but rather sees himself as a father to “design…

Match of the moment? A 2013 Pierre Rousse Martingale Chardonnay from the Languedoc (bright, juicy and delicious) with our Meredith sheep curd with soybeans, pea tendrils, rye and linseed. Favourite somms? Sally Harper from Bathers Pavilion gave me the wine bug. I also admire Banjo Harris Plane, late of Attica, and 10 William St’s Matt Young, one of the most brilliant minds in wine. Winemakers to watch? Nav Singh from Domaine Simha in Tassie makes a gamay that’s so beautiful and pure. Favourite summer drink? Riesling. I’m a big fan of Dom Valentine. His Valere is in a real German style. Wine destination? Jura, hands-down. Merricote, 81 High St, Northcote, Vic, (03) 9939 4762 EMMA HUTTON…

Slow burn Curtis Stone puts on a cracking barbie with 12-hour beef brisket and trimmings to match. The Redzepis at home René Redzepi and Nadine Levy Redzepi give us a taste of their laid-back approach. Close to the bone Chops, cutlets – meat grilled on the bone makes for the juiciest of barbecue eats. Down Mexico way Hartwood is fired by wood and canopied by stars – and the food is no less magical. Putting on the Spritz The Spritz specialists at Sydney’s This Must be the Place put a new spin on the cool classic. Out of Africola Duncan Welgemoed fires up a South African-style barbie at Ochota Barrels winery.…

Provence “This is a drink in the style of Italy’s Sgroppino with some flavours from further afield,” says Luke Ashton. “The blend of peach, sorbet and prosecco makes a delicious way to start or finish your party.” Makes 1 20 ml rinquinquin (a dry French peach apéritif; see note) 75 ml prosecco 1 scoop of coconut and pandan sorbet (see note) ¼-½ tsp lime zest, plus extra, to serve 1 Blend ingredients in a blender on high speed until smooth (10 seconds), pour into chilled Champagne flutes, garnish with a pinch of lime zest and serve. Note “If you’re not familiar with rinquinquin (pronounced “ran-can-can”) it’s something you’ll wish you knew about sooner,” says Ashton. “With its perfect balance of sweet and dry and clean, fresh yellow-peach flavours, you’ll find…

“The first thing that I do when I’m playing in other countries, whether I win or lose in the tournament, is to seek the fastest way to go back to Mallorca.” Tennis champion Rafael Nadal returns home to an island that has retained its relaxed Mediterranean charm and heritage while being polished by an influx of investment in high-end tourism in the past few years. Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands off Spain and a short flight from Madrid. Its capital, Palma de Mallorca, or simply Palma, is small but not too small – with a population of about 400,000, including a clutch of European celebrities. It’s blessed with a long city beach, cobbled streets and a magnificent landmark, the Gothic cathedral of La Seu. Residents in homegrown…

Victorinox Style meets function in the Architecture Urban bag from Victorinox. It’s made using eco-friendly Nüwa fabric, with a traditional napa leather trim for a casual yet refined look. Priced $429. (02) 9482 6666 Décor Cook, serve, store and reheat food all in one Décor Thermostone dish with an airtight, leak-proof lid. Pop open the air-release vent in the lid for reheating in the microwave and pop it closed for an airtight seal. decor.com.au Kailis These elegant, eye-catching Australian South Sea pearl Swing earrings feature an articulated chain, suspended from a diamond- accented setting in a French hook style. Priced $5,240. kailisjewellery.com.au Maria Island Walk 2016 Recognised as one of Australia’s great walks, the four-day Maria Island Walk takes in rare wildlife, spectacular scenery, elegant accommodation, and local Tasmanian food…

Dance like no one’s watching, for festival season is upon us. Thousands of white flares and blue suede shoes are packed and heading to Parkes in central NSW for the annual Elvis Festival (6-10 January). parkeselvisfestival.com.au Sydney Festival returns with more than 140 music, theatre and dance events; highlights include singer-harpist Joanna Newsom’s latest opus, Spear by Bangarra Dance Company at Sydney Opera House, and The Flaming Lips in The Domain (7-26 January). sydneyfestival.org.au. For more specific musical tastes, the 44th annual Tamworth Country Music Festival (15-24 January) will feature about 700 artists. tcmf.com.au Sportswise, nothing says summer like the Australian Open at Melbourne Park (18-31 January); the tournament’s entertainment precinct has live music, food stalls and an autograph station. ausopen.com Meanwhile, professional cyclists and fans will be heading to South…

Tourism Fiji With gourmet food, azure water, luxury resorts and welcome respite from everyday life, Fiji is a place where happiness finds you in every sense. For an idyllic South Pacific experience visit fiji.travel/au or call (02) 92643399. BBC Earth Collection Here for the first time are three of David Attenborough’s most acclaimed and revered BBC Earth documentaries in one superlative collection. Now available to own on DVD & Blu-Ray priced $99.95. sanity.com.au Spiegelau The new Perfect Serve Collection was designed in collaboration with German mixologist Stephan Hinz for Spiegelau to cater specifically to the needs of the modern bartender. Priced from $69.95 for four. spiegelau.com.au Lurpak From topping toast to mixing with fresh herbs for flavoured butters, Lurpak Spreadable, made using the best Danish cream, has become a modern…

1 Mikoh “Lahaina” swim brief, $120, from Revolve. 2 James Read Express Glow Mask Body, $78 for 200ml, from Mecca Cosmetica. 3 Louis Vuitton Twist MM leather and canvas bag, $4,900. 4 Ellery “Radiate” dress, $675, from Parlour X. 5 Tiffany & Co Elsa Peretti “Claw” necklace in 18-carat gold with green jade, $16,200. 6 Mary Katrantzou “Birk” guipure lace top, $2,235, from Net-a-Porter. 7 The Upside “Snapper” neoprene tank, $129. 8 Miu Miu sunglasses, $335, from My Theresa. 9 Chanel Le Weekend de Chanel Renew, $148 for 50ml. 10 Valentino lace and leather espadrilles, $523, from Net-a-Porter. 11 Mara Hoffman “Harvest” cut-out swimsuit, $288, from Net-a-Porter. 12 Hatmaker “Gabon” straw sunhat, $390. Stockists p175.…

Adairs 1300 783 005, adairs.com.au Bambis (03) 9386 1222, bambis.com.au The Bay Tree (02) 9328 1101, thebaytree.com.au Bison Australia (02) 6257 7255, bisonhome.com Chanel 1300 242 635, chanel.com Citta Design 1800 256 723, cittadesign.com Claypool claypool.com.au Collector Store (02) 9699 7740, collectorstore.com.au Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au The Country Trader (02) 9698 4661, thecountrytrader.com.au The Design Hunter (02) 9369 3322, thedesignhunter.com.au Elements I Love (02) 9560 3067, elements.net.au Francalia (02) 9948 4977, francalia.com.au Freedom 1300 135 588, freedom.com.au Funkis (02) 9358 3093, funkis.com Garden Life (02) 9517 3633, gardenlife.com.au Ginkgo Leaf ginkgoleaf.com.au Hatmaker hatmaker.com.au Hayden Youlley Design haydenyoulley.com Ici et Là (02) 8399 1173, icietla.com.au Liberty Trading Co libertytradingco.com.au Lived in Coogee (02) 9665 5330, livedincoogee.bigcartel.com Loft (02) 9326 6588, loftfurniture.com.au Louis Vuitton 1300 883 880, louisvuitton.com.au Luumo Design…

inaugural Chinese edition to press – it’s out in time for Lunar New Year – and while planning the issue we were reminded of not only how diverse and exciting the travel experience to Australia is, but that some of the most precious memories waiting to be made lie beyond a visit to the Sydney Opera House or the Great Barrier Reef. Take the Far South Coast of New South Wales. This remarkable part of the world, including the “beautifully uncivilised” Sapphire Coast, is home to pristine beaches that run into lush dairy land and national parks, and in recent years it has flourished, becoming one of the emerging food destinations in the country. Helen Anderson travelled from Narooma to Eden to report on the renewal of this special region…

greens are popping up on plates . But do you know your warrigal greens from your barilla? Let’s hit the beach. “It’s amazing how much food and medicine you can come across below your feet,” says winemaker and market gardener Tim Webber. “It’s no wonder Australian chefs are using what’s right before our very eyes more and more often.” Webber was one-half of the team that opened Sydney wine bar Love, Tilly Devine; he has cooked at Sean’s Panaroma and foraged for restaurants including Africola and Ester. He and his partner, Monique Millton, now make Manon wine in the Adelaide Hills. When it comes to identifying coastal greens, Webber suggests familiarising yourself with a key half a dozen plants to start. “Try before you buy,” he says. Samphire is a…

How can we make the most of cooking seafood over an open flame? As much as I love seafood steamed, roasted and fried, for me the best method of cooking a fish is over a fire. You can barbecue whole fish and fillets with equal success. It really is magnificent and easy to do, too. Briquettes might seem the very definition of one-touch convenience, but they tend to burn too bright, too fast, meaning you don’t get that steady, intense heat so desired when cooking over coals. Instead, start by using good-quality charcoal; it’ll last longer, cooks with a more consistent heat and imparts a beautiful flavour that’s neither tannic or harsh. Before cooking your fish, always allow all flames to die down until you’re left with white ash. Choosing…

As far as dish descriptors go, “strange flavour” isn’t exactly a marketer’s dream, but that hasn’t stopped it from gaining traction locally. Named for the “strange” yet seamless way contrasting tastes like hot, numbing, sour and fresh meld, the sauce can be traced back to China’s Sichuan province, where it’s partnered with everything from meat to peanuts. While Melbourne’s Gingerboy and Master in Sydney are among the restaurants serving strange-flavoured dishes, Neil Perry was one of the method’s early adopters with Spice Temple’s dish of strange flavour white-cut chicken. “The flavour comes from the combination of black vinegar and Chinese roasted sesame paste,” says Spice Temple Sydney’s head chef, Andy Evans. “On paper these two ingredients wouldn’t normally be found together; however, used this way, the result is extraordinary.” MAX…

ESTER Barbecued prawns with brown butter and tamari FRANK Charred sweet potato, goat’s curd and almonds GAS-LIGHT IZAKAYA Barbecued lamb ribs with yuzu-sesame yakiniku sauce THE TAMARIND Pineapple with ginger beer sorbet and coconut mousse “Ester’s long been a favourite local of mine, and I’d love to cook Mat’s prawns on the barbie at home.” Guido Di Lizio, Redfern, NSW Barbecued prawns with brown butter and tamari Chef Mat Lindsay usually cooks the prawns in a wood-fired oven, but a barbecue works well, too. Use your hands to eat these, and don’t throw away the shells and heads – they add great crunch. Prep time 35 mins, cook 10 mins (plus cooling) Serves 4 (pictured p30) 12 large king prawns 125 gm unsalted butter, diced 3 tsp tamari, or to…

In Malaysia, the state of Kelantan, on the north-east coast of the peninsular, is known for its beautiful beaches and laid-back lifestyle. Isolated from the rest of the country until a few decades ago, it’s also the most conservative; the food, however, is anything but. Coconut milk reigns supreme and sugar takes on more than a passing role in dishes that feel vaguely Thai (the state was once a part of Thailand). Think red coconut curry with prawns and vermicelli, for instance. More importantly, the state has come up with a dish that is seductive and sublime. An unsung hero, it’s the most fragrant chicken you’ll ever come across. Ayam percik (pronounced “per-chayk”), or chicken with percik sauce, is a street food cooked over coconut embers that pops up at…

SHARE AND SHARE ALIKE. CATER TO ALL TASTES AND CELEBRATE WITH THE BEST. SCAN THIS PAGE WITH THE FREE VIEWA APP TO CHECK OUT MORE COCKTAIL RECIPES AND SERVING SUGGESTIONS. RED, WHITE OR SPARKLING, WE’VE FOUND THE PERFECT DROP TO SHARE WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY High-quality grapes and varietal expression make the Jacob’s Creek range a crowd-pleasing choice for lazy lunches and New Year brunches. Available in a creamy Chardonnay, a showcase Sparkling or full-bodied Shiraz with hints of black pepper. For perfect pairings and recipes, visit jacobscreek.com/ourtable…

You’re reading this at the beach, or perhaps by the swimming pool. My holiday has been by the water, but of rather a different bent. In place of surfboards and thongs, here it’s gondolas and Gucci. Sand in your sandwich isn’t a problem – it’s more a matter of keeping the squid-ink risotto under control. Ah, Venice, where “surf’s up” can only be code for another round of Bellinis, and in place of beach towels, we’re surrounded by acres of ironed linen napkins and crisp tablecloths. Our good artist friend Sarah Lucas represented Britain this year at the Venice Biennale, the end of which coincided neatly with her birthday, so she scooped a group of us up and very kindly took us to Venice for three nights. (Her show included…

A reckless friend defines the borders of Europe by its green beans. A true European, he argues, would never serve a squeaky bean, and woe betide anyone who leaves them crunchy. Australian chefs, he continues, are so fearful of overcooked vegetables that they invariably err way too far on the under side. The line is fine, but at the Continental, true to the name, they’re all about the properly cooked veg, à point all the way, whether it’s asparagus, peas, peppers or zucchini. It’s not your everyday rallying cry, but you have to admit it has a certain charm. Vegetables are by no means the main game here. “DELI • BAR • BISTRO” reads the business card, and that’s roughly the order of priorities. By his own admission, chef and…

David Thompson is looking for a good root. High-grade turmeric, to be exact. The chillies and limes he has found in Perth, meanwhile, aren’t as fragrant as what he’s used to back home in Bangkok, while the coconuts in the kitchen smell like “an old man”. In short, the Sydney-born chef has had an interesting opening month in his first restaurant on Australian soil in 20 years. “Nothing’s the same,” he laments. “I don’t have my ingredients. I’m going to die.” But if anyone can pull it off, it’s David Thompson, one of the most respected interpreters of the food of Thailand in the world. At least that’s what his partners at Long Chim are hoping, anyway. Opened in December in Perth’s newly restored State Buildings, Long Chim – the…

I am drowning in young Australian red wines. Every few days yet another bottle of nine-month-old shiraz or grenache or pinot arrives, desperate to be slurped while it’s still full of vibrant, youthful, lively fruit. I swear there have never been so many current vintage reds on the market. And they start appearing on bottle shop shelves and wine lists earlier each year – some were even released as far back as June of last year: no sooner had the grapes been plucked from the vine and frothed through the fermenter than they were splashing purple in our glasses. To verify that this is a bona-fide trend, I dug around in my files and found a price list from Adelaide’s East End Cellars from Christmas 2005. Back then, EEC was…

The beach on Kos is littered with the detritus of the transient who come to find a better, sunnier life. Economic migrants wander the grey, coarse sand on tired feet. They look confused and blank. They hold hands for safety rather than affection. Some just sit in their wet clothes staring back out to sea. They are pathetic stragglers. You would need a heart of stone not to pity them. Certainly the boatloads of refugees arriving from Syria via the Turkish port of Bodrum seem surprised and humanely concerned to see them – vacant and confused English tourists who have flown to the Greek islands for about a quarter of the price that the refugees have paid to travel a quarter of a mile in a rubber boat. They’ve come…

Homemade white bread “Not multigrain, not gluten-free, nor rye or whole wheat – classic white bread is the only acceptable canvas for your delicious passion project, the brisket,” says Curtis Stone. “Texas barbecue sides are supposed to be minimalist, but minimalist done right. Baking soft, fluffy bread from scratch is doing it just right (and then some). Plus, stuffing brisket into a slice of bread means you can eat with your hands, the way it ought to be.” Prep time 15 mins, cook 45 mins(plus proving, cooling) Makes 2 loaves (pictured p86) 880 gm plain flour 55gm ( 1/4 cup) caster sugar 1½ tbsp sea salt flakes 65 gm milk 3 tsp dried yeast 50 gm unsalted butter at room temperature 1 large egg whisked with 1 tbsp extra milk,for…

Barnsley chops with charred lettuce and peas Barnsley chops are cut across the loin, resulting in double-sided chops that are the perfect size to serve one per person. You may need to order them ahead from your butcher, but if they’re not available you can use regular lamb loin chops instead. Charred lettuce and minted peas are an excellent match with the lamb, with buttermilk dressing cutting through the richness. Prep time 20 mins, cook 15 mins (plus resting) Serves 4 150 gm frozen or fresh peas 120 gm sugar snap peas, trimmed ½ cup torn mint, plus extra leaves to serve 2 spring onions, thinly sliced 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Finely grated rind and juice of ½ lemon 2 baby cos, outer leaves removed (reserve for another use),…

AFRICOLA’S BARBECUE MENU + PREGO ROLLS ‘A SENSE OF COMPRESSION’ GRENACHE + AFRICOLA CHAKALAKA + ROASTED RIB OF BEEF WITH NDOLÉ ‘BOTANICALS OF THE BASKET RANGE’ + SMOKED MULLOWAY WITH APRICOT AND BEER ‘THE PRICE OF SILENCE’ GAMAY + CURRIED YOUNG COCONUT SALAD WITH SORREL +5V 0V BASKET RANGE CHARDONNAY + CORN SALAD WITH PRAWN SALT ‘WEIRD BERRIES IN THE WOODS’ GEWÜRZTRAMINER + CAMEROONIAN SPICED BANANA GÂTEAU ‘SHE’S LOST CONTROL’ ISABELLA ALL WINES BY OCHOTA BARRELS Hot coals equal good times. Africola chef Duncan Welgemoed says he’s most at home when he’s grilling, especially outdoors in the company of friends. “There’s an authenticity to social barbecuing,” says the 33-year-old. “And a flavour that can’t compare with anything else. “A great barbecue becomes your personal expression. It’s about manipulating the fire,…

Roadtripping on the NSW Far South Coast reveals the magic of one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Helen Anderson explores its pristine beauty, discovering perfect oysters, hip new venues and a wave of savvy entrepreneurs along the way. We could buy a live lamb for $80 in the front bar of the Dromedary Hotel, or a second-hand ute (best offer). We settle instead for a seat on the verandah and watch a steady stream of passers-by shopping for fudge and knick-knacks in ye olde main street of Central Tilba, on the NSW Far South Coast. I’m here to see a man about a dog. And his 25 chooks, nine pigs, seven goats, four cows, three ducks, vegetable patch, cooking school, cookbook and TV series. On a former dairy farm on…

PRECIOUS CARGO There were bags of cement, kegs of beer, whitegoods – and passengers – aboard the maiden voyage last month of Aranui 5, the newest and largest Aranui freighter. The line’s cargo ships are a lifeline for communities across the far-flung archipelagos of French Polynesia, as well as being a popular way for travellers to island-hop. The 126-metre Aranui 5 can accommodate 254 passengers, a leap in size and comfort from the 200-passenger Aranui 3. The new ship, which will be based in the Tahitian capital, Papeete, will dispense cargo to remote ports across the Tuamotu archipelago, and the Marquesas and Society Islands, while passengers are able to disembark and explore onshore. aranuicruises.com.au TASTE FOR CRUISING Food is the focus of two new itineraries devised by Crystal Cruises. In…

Vintec The “Transbottle 3” is a wine-bottle carrier made from expanded polypropylene, keeping bottles at drinking temperature, safe from the effects of light, temperature and even breakage from heights of up to two metres. vintecclub.com Discover Asia Just as Vietnamese cuisine is all about balance, so too is this journey. Take guided tours through local markets, improve your skills at cooking school and enjoy meals at some of Vietnam’s best restaurants. discoverasia.com.au Robert Gordon Australia Add an element of style and originality to your home with the new Gourmet Traveller Signature Collection, a range of tableware by Australian Gourmet Traveller and Robert Gordon Australia. domayne.com.au Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection will launch its new luxury river cruise ship, the Ganges Voyager II, in January 2016 sailing a 13-day “India’s Golden…

MEASURES & EQUIPMENT * All cup and spoon measures are level and based on Australian metric measures. * Eggs have an average weight of 59gm unless otherwise specified. * Fruit and vegetables are washed, peeled and medium-sized unless otherwise specified. * Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. * Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based; cake tins are stainless steel, unless otherwise specified. COOKING TIPS * When seasoning food to taste, we use sea salt and freshly ground pepper unless otherwise specified. * To blanch an ingredient, cook it briefly in boiling water, then drain it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty of iced water (this stops the cooking process), then drain it. * We recommend using free-range eggs, chicken and pork. We…

OLIVER STRAND Oliver Strand regularly writes for The New York Times and Vogue, and is the author of Clean, Bright, Sweet, and co-author of Hartwood: Bright, Wild Flavours from the Edge of the Yucatán. His work was included in Best Food Writing in 2010, 2014, and 2015. In this issue he writes about Hartwood, a restaurant where, he says, chef Eric Werner “destroys himself each night” to maintain his high standards. Read more on page 106. DOMINIQUE AFACAN Writer, editor and sunseeker Dominique Afacan often takes the short flight from her London home to Palma, the pint-sized capital of Mallorca, to soak up the island’s year-round cheerful weather. “I’ve been travelling to the Balearics for over a decade, but in the past year or two I’ve noticed a new energy…

Two glass artists find beauty in the strangely seductive off-centre, one vessel at a time. Daniel Spitzer and Jill Reynolds are glass artists living in Beacon, New York. Spitzer is an established glassblower and Reynolds, a flameworker, produces glasswork on a much smaller scale. Together, the duo produce Malfatti Glass: a collection of delicate-looking yet surprisingly sturdy tableware made using only hand tools and their breath. From whimsical sake sets to test tube-like prosecco glasses, there’s an off-kilter magic to Malfatti (which means “misshapen” in Italian). Each piece is made from borosilicate, a type of glass more commonly reserved for laboratory ware. How does a Malfatti Glass piece come to be? Unlike furnace glass, which starts from a vat of molten material, we start with glass tubes of different sizes…

Chef Dan Hughes swaps Three Blue Ducks for selling gelati by the beach. WHO After hanging up his chef’s whites in February last year, Dan Hughes (formerly of Sydney’s Three Blue Ducks) started experimenting with goat’s milk. “It’s no secret I love goats,” says Hughes. “I grew up with them, drinking fresh goat’s milk and eating loads of cheese. I’m also a big fan of gelato, so combining the two seemed like a good idea.” WHAT The current Mr Goaty range includes four signature flavours: honeycomb and lavender; lemon curd; cacao and coconut; and raspberry and pistachio. “I wanted the flavours to be a bit different, and also reflect and complement the goat’s milk,” he says. The UK-born chef got the inspiration for the popular lavender flavour when he was…

SINGAPORE The National Gallery Singapore’s former Supreme Court building has welcomed chef Julien Royer (previously of Jaan) to its dining precinct. Odette is Royer’s 32-seater modern French fine-diner, which takes its name from his grandmother. Open for lunch and dinner and offering four-, six- and eight-course tasting menus, Odette dishes up the likes of beef tartare with smoked bone marrow, pickled kohlrabi and grain mustard ice-cream. HONG KONG Hong Kong-based Vietnamese-Australian chef Bao La has swapped Ho Lee Fook for Le Garçon Saigon, a new Saigonese grillhouse in Wan Chai. The new digs remixes French brasserie charm (tiled floors, banquette seating, French wines) with La’s family recipes and traditional southern Vietnamese flavours such as whole red snapper with rice paper and pickled daikon, his mother’s cha gio and sides of…

Life is often defined and then separated by moments, both good and bad. There are pivotal events that divide your life, be they work, former partners, even flashy new cars, and anyone with children could easily describe their existence as pre-kids and post-kids. I find that each year there’s a seasonal sliding door that can throw life into turmoil: the time when there is basil and the time when there is not. As a gardener, I’ve broadened my horizons beyond the tomato and basil man I used to be. But successfully growing these plants continues to have a profound impact on me – life seems brighter, and I’m not discounting the impact my culture has here, too, being an Italian-Australian. Basil is one of those charismatic plants that changes a…

Want to know what’s going on at Oakridge winery’s restaurant now chef Matt Stone’s in the kitchen? Look no further than his steamed custard. A pale yellow beauty with the slightly quivery texture of silken tofu, made with local eggs (more on those in a minute) and whey from Yarra Valley Dairy, and subtly flavoured with crushed dried mountain pepper leaves. It’s surrounded by peas and broad beans picked from the Oakridge vegetable patch and tossed quickly in whey and butter, and then finished with the bright-green juice of the peas’ shells. It’s rustic, pretty, local, waste-free. The flavours are largely left to speak for themselves and the dish is as much about texture as it is flavour. That’s how Oakridge rolls these days. And there’s a Joost Bakker connection.…

Bar raising The bar menu at Momofuku Seiobo is back, and new(ish) chef Paul Carmichael has rewritten it with a distinct Caribbean twist. Notable dishes include snapper ceviche with jalapeño and macadamia milk, habanero fried chicken, and a jerk-spiced pork chop served in a cloud of lime fragrance conjured by lime zest, grilled lime wedges and a bed of kaffir lime leaves. Momofuku Seiobo, The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont, (02) 9777 9000 Sri city The setting isn’t promising: a hole-in-the-wall in a sort-of food court between office blocks, and the plates and cutlery are disposable plastic. But speak to Madushan Herath and Dinushi Pelanarathnage, proprietors of Taprobana, and their enthusiasm for the food of their native Sri Lanka is tough to resist. Chopped roti! Lotus-root curry! Lamprais! Pickles Malay,…

Does social media fan the fires of Sydney’s dessert culture, or vice versa? Any visit to a pâtisserie in Sydney is likely to include a glimpse into someone else’s photo shoot with a cult cake while it’s increasingly challenging to get through a quick look at Instagram or Facebook without coming across a post of perfectly poised and iced pastry perfection. But it’d be a pretty short-lived phenomenon if there wasn’t some substance to it, and in Sydney, now seemingly one of the world’s top destinations for snap-happy diners, the chefs more than come up with the goods. Here’s a rundown in no particular order of the city’s most essential sweet photo-finishes. 1 LORRAINE’S STRAWBERRY & MASCARPONE CAKE Combining the best ingredients with artistic flair is master pâtissière Lorraine Godsmark’s…

1 BLACK MAGIC 2015 Ochota Barrels “I Am the Owl Syrah”, Adelaide Hills, SA, $40 Not all these young reds need to be drunk early. Some – this one in particular – have what it takes to age gracefully for many years, as well as being ravishing right now: stunning amalgam of black pepper and black berries and sinewy black tannin. ochotabarrels.com 2 WHOLE STORY 2015 Bobar Syrah, Yarra Valley, Vic, $30 A wine of two halves: initially it comes across pale angular and spritzy, but as you splash it around in a big glass, it settles into a lovely, pinot noir-like groove of silky autumnal berries and forest-floor funk. tomeb@iprimus.com.au 3 JUICY FRUIT 2015 Lowe Tinja Preservative Free Shiraz, Mudgee, NSW, $22 If you doubt that preservative-free wine can…

Style, sparkle and a whole lot of love filled the room when Gourmet Traveller co-hosted the 2015 Silver Style cocktail party with the Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation at Alto, the industrial-chic event space at Melbourne’s GPO Building in November. Hosted with wit and warmth by Catriona Rowntree, the glamorous party was part fundraiser, part thank-you to the many donors and sponsors who help raise an impressive amount of money for the OCRF during the year. Gourmet Traveller has been partners with the OCRF since 2004: a percentage of every ticket sold for our monthly reader dinners goes to the charity for research into an early-detection test for ovarian cancer. Publisher Cornelia Schulze spoke of her pride in the magazine’s association with the OCRF. “We can get caught up in the…

1 To prepare your barbecue for the 12-hour brisket (see recipe p88), place a couple of pieces of newspaper in the bottom of a chimney charcoal starter. Place 12 charcoal briquettes on top of the chimney starter and light the newspaper. Allow the briquettes to burn until they’re all completely covered in a thin layer of ash (15-20 minutes). 2 On the bottom rack of a kettle barbecue, dump about two-thirds of the bag of unlit briquettes into the centre of the barbecue, then build a circle three-quarters of the way around the perimeter of the barbecue two briquettes wide. Place another two-briquette-wide layer on top and reserve any extra briquettes. 3 Place a 20cm-square disposable roasting pan on the side of the barbecue opposite the briquette chain and bring…

Eric Werner had never headed a kitchen when he and his wife, Mya Henry, decided to buy a plot of jungle in Tulum, a beach town south of Cancún, and open the restaurant he had built in his mind. Werner had been a line cook at Vinegar Hill House, a highly regarded restaurant in Brooklyn, but he had never had to create a menu, hire staff, meet with purveyors, review the plans for a new ventilation system, or attend to the endless soul-numbing tasks that have little to do with preparing delicious food but are an important part of running a small business. Werner knew he had culinary talent, and that Henry had a good eye. It seemed like enough. It helps explain why Hartwood feels like a fantasy of…

The real Mallorca This gem in Spain’s Balearic Islands has more to it than its party reputation. Discover its charismatic culture and cuisine in the charming capital and pretty mountain villages. Going coastal Roadtripping on the NSW Far South Coast reveals its pristine beauty, perfect oysters, hip new venues and a wave of savvy entrepreneurs along the way. Drop in the ocean A tiny private island off Fiji is the emerald setting for a resort that tropical daydreams are made of.…

Guidebooks on Fiji say that cannibalism in this part of Melanesia went out of fashion more than a century ago. So why, as I settle in this idyllic patch of the South Pacific, do I feel like I’m being fattened for slaughter? It’s day two of a three-day stay on Dolphin Island, the private-island retreat owned by the proprietors of New Zealand’s luxe Huka Lodge, and I’m sitting in the kitchen of Aunty Meena in the town of Rakiraki on Viti Levu, the main island of Fiji. We’re at a long table surrounded by pots, teetering towers of empty ice-cream containers and the heady scent of Indian spices. As Aunty Meena tells me about her days as the region’s chief health inspector, she reaches into a large bowl of bhaji…

WUPPERTAL, GERMANY MEOW MEOW Artist and performer “It was almost by accident that I ended up in Wuppertal. I was falling madly in love at the time, so I imagine I was exuding a heightened and thrilling energy. I’d gone to do a concert there and a friend said, ‘One of the dancers from the Pina Bausch company is in town. Would you like to meet?’ “I’d long had an affinity with Bausch’s work and always wanted to work with her. We met the dancer for a drink and I remember spilling red wine on her beautiful dress. I was clearly overexcited. She said, ‘What a pity Pina is not here; I have a feeling you two would get on so well.’ I didn’t think too much about it at…

TRANS-PACIFIC TRAFFIC After a hiatus of nearly 20 years, American Airlines has launched daily direct flights from Sydney to Los Angeles as part of an expanded partnership with Qantas. Though Qantas continues to fly to LA, the new deal frees up aircraft to resume flights between Sydney and San Francisco six days a week after four years’ absence from the route. JUST THE TONIC Qantas, Rockpool and Four Pillars Gin have crafted a limited-edition bottling, the Modern Australian Gin, to be served in select Qantas lounges and Rockpool restaurants. NEW-GEN BIRDS Focus in the skies this year will be on the next-generation Airbus A350. This month Singapore Airlines receives the first of 67 on order and in April will fly its new baby on the 13-hour route from Singapore to…

DON’T MISS People-watching on Copacabana Beach is a pastime in itself. Enjoy the circus without being jostled in the crowd on a stand-up paddleboard. Rio’s latest fitness trend is especially popular at the south-west end of the beach, where typically calm reef breaks offer ideal boarding conditions. DAYTRIPPING The idyllic car-free island of Ilha Grande is a two-hour drive, then a quick ferry retreat from the frenzy of Rio. A biodiversity hotspot, this largely undeveloped island has pristine rainforest, tropical beaches and 150 kilometres of hiking trails connecting coastal villages and hamlets.…

FOOD On a Mission With Mission Chinese Food, Danny Bowien has turned the cuisine on its head, first in San Francisco, then New York and now your kitchen. Halcyon days At Paper Daisy, chef Ben Devlin nails sandy-toed and pool-side luxe like few others; get your taste of his sunny brilliance here. Masterclass: larb Fine-tune Thailand’s greatest contribution to the summer snacking world with the inside word from Chat Thai matriarch Amy Chanta. Fruit salad days Reboot sweet childhood favourites with glam twists of chilli, basil, pomegranate and spice. TRAVEL Secret Provence In the shadow of mighty Mont Ventoux, Sophie Dening coasts through the villages and vineyards of the Vaucluse. Land and sea With the wind in her hair and Wineglass Bay in her sights, Maya Kerthyasa hikes and sails…

Prosecco jelly with melon and buttermilk granita Begin this recipe a day ahead to set the jelly and freeze the granita. Prep time 20 mins, cook 5 mins (plus cooling, setting and freezing) Serves 8-10 750 ml prosecco 165 gm ( 3/4 cup) caster sugar 6 titanium-strength gelatine leaves, softened in cold water for 5 minutes ¼ each rockmelon and honeydew melon, seeded and flesh scooped into balls with a melon-baller Mint leaves, to serve Melon and buttermilk granita 100 gm caster sugar ½ rockmelon (about 1kg), peeled, seeded and flesh coarsely chopped 150 ml buttermilk, well-shaken Juice of ½ lemon, or to taste 1 Stir prosecco, sugar and 250ml water in a saucepan over medium-high heat until sugar dissolves, then bring to a simmer. Squeeze excess water from gelatine,…