Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2018 i Gourmet Traveller

In characteristically damp Scottish weather, the new V&A Dundee looks from a distance like a blackened hulk beached on a riverbank or, more romantically, an ark awaiting the great flood. In fact, Japanese architect Kengo Kuma had the cliffs of Scotland’s northeast coast in mind when he designed the hotly anticipated first outpost of London’s celebrated Victoria and Albert Museum – and Scotland’s first design museum. His original design positioned almost the entire building in the River Tay, and though this had to be scaled back to a prow-like 13 metres, the effect is no less dramatic. The museum is part of a £1-billion revamp of Dundee’s dockyard and waterfront precinct, positioning the city of 150,000, about an hour’s train ride north of Edinburgh, on the itineraries of design-focused travellers.…

WHO Alex Crawford began his career as a 14-year-old commis chef at Chloe’s Restaurant in Adelaide. Days off were spent learning how to temper chocolate and make ice-cream bases. He later started a business selling pavlova croissants and custard-tart macarons directly to cafés, but gave it up after costs became unsustainable. After a trip to Italy, which acted as a chocolate-making research mission, he began creating single-origin bars for his former clients and they loved them. The Sugar Man was born. HOW “Eighty per cent of the flavours are nostalgic,” he says. “I’m a big kid.” The Sugar Man’s chocolate draws on Crawford’s childhood memories, from his Milo dependency – “like everybody else, I used to eat it straight out of the tin with a spoon” – to his grandfather’s…

“I’d be happy with a big plate of broccoli, but I find myself eating hot chips a lot as a substitute.” What kind of food do you eat when you’re on the road? Yesterday, I ate a burrito from a 24-hour burrito restaurant. I eat mostly vegetarian. I love vegetables and often there are no vegetables or salads. I’d be happy with a big plate of broccoli, but I find myself eating hot chips a lot as a substitute. It takes a bit of extra effort to eat well and find out where the good places are. A lot of the time, I don’t like to eat before I play, because I get too nervous, so I find myself not having dinner until one or two o’clock in the morning…

I planted my first vegetable garden about 12 years ago when, for the first time in my adult life, I moved into a house with a reasonably sized backyard. I started with a herb garden, experimented with a few vegetables and was hooked. You plant a small seed – a pea, say – into the soil and, within a few days, a green shoot appears from the earth. It grows, climbing a trellis and bursting into flower. These flowers then attract insects for pollination. Small pea pods begin to emerge and, as they grow, young peas develop inside the pods. It’s hard to believe that planting just one seed creates so much life, beauty and sustenance. If the pods are left on the plant and allowed to mature further, the…

Kingfish sashimi, chilli, black bean, white soy Silken tofu, vegan XO, pickled long beans, mushroom floss Eric Koh’s signature dim-sum selection Roast duck with plum sauce Steamed scallops with XO vermicelli Moreton Bay bugs with black-pepper sauce Steamed coral trout, ginger and shallots Queen Chow special fried rice, cuttlefish, sweetcorn, barbecue pork Stir-fried okra, garlic, Shaoxing Toby’s salted-caramel brûlée tart Soy-milk panna cotta, fruit and granita VENUE: Queen Chow Manly 22-23 Manly Wharf, E Esplanade, Manly, NSW DATE: Tuesday 30 October 2018 TIME: 6.30pm PRICE: $100 per person including matching wines TO BOOK: Call (02) 9114 7341…

Would it be more useful to think of Lankan Filling Station less as a Sri Lankan restaurant and more an O Tama Carey restaurant? The food is very much Sri Lankan, tilted towards the Burgher side of Carey’s heritage, yet this is a place where everything bends less to the traditions of a particular state or culture and more to the force of a particular personality. The look of the room is more Sydney-now than Tropical Modernist or Galle Fort-chic, all banquette and bentwood, concrete and careful lighting. Rare is the Sri Lankan restaurant, too, that serves Single O filter coffee, good Martinis, sake and yuzushu, Loire gamay, sangiovese on tap and mead (mead!) alongside its king coconut water, faluda, teas and arrack. These things are united by no other…

Amy Hamilton Chef and co-owner of Gourmet Traveller’s Bar of The Year, Liberté. Also harbours School of Rock ambitions. Amy Hamilton knows a riff or two and considers the guitar a picnic essential. At least for a Liberté staff outing: “so we could torture nearby picnic people,” she jokes. When they’re not responsible for orders of garlic crab noodles and fried Brussels sprouts, most members of her brigade play instruments. “We have a running joke about forming the Liberté kitchen band. Our set list is composed of great takes on classics rewritten to themes and food items we find amusing – we all sing during service.” If musical jams aren’t your actual jam, she suggests a “trashy” classic, like a spinach cob loaf, for your picnic and keeping your food…

In some ways, The Summertown Aristologist was built for an audience of one. Winemaker Anton van Klopper, of Lucy Margaux fame, had been pining for the sort of places he frequented when he was in France – bars that poured his kind of wine and served his kind of food. The choice, in the end, he says, was to either move to Paris or make something of his own back home in the Adelaide Hills. Luckily for us, he went with the second option. The Summertown Aristologist was the result. Opened in spring 2016 by van Klopper, fellow Basket Range winemaker Jasper Button, of Commune of Buttons, and former Orana manager Aaron Fenwick, it quickly gained a reputation for service and food under original chef Tom Edwards that exceeded the…

Some years ago I wrote a book about Nordic food. The Nordic Cookbook is a documentary book in the sense that the recipes weren’t my own – I simply collected and compiled them in a way that made it possible for people to understand and use them. An important aspect of that was to make the recipes and my own food culture understandable to those who didn’t grow up in the Nordics. Most people never see past the flurry of recipes and variations of a handful of dishes such as gravlax, herrings and meatballs. Or articles about very ambitious Nordic restaurants like my own (Fäviken), which are all fantastic at what they do, but don’t reflect the food culture of people inside their homes. I wanted to help people to…

“Beautiful one day, perfect the next.” The old tourism campaign might still be true of Queensland as a whole, but in Brisbane “busy one day, even busier the next” is closer to the mark. The city is buzzing with activity and teeming with growth, not least in food, drink and travel. Clues are everywhere across the city. The huge construction crater on William Street, for instance, will be filled by a chunk of the new Queen’s Wharf precinct when it arrives in 2022. The $3.6-billion casino resort will bring 50 new cafés, restaurants and bars plus a handful of luxury hotels in its wake, including The Ritz-Carlton, Rosewood and Dorsett Brisbane. A second runway at Brisbane Airport, the fruit of an eight-year project, is on track for 2020. Howard Smith…

Don’t miss Ghuznee Street Move over, Cuba Street, this is the city’s emerging retail hub. Shop for local fashion and homewares at ENA (iamena.co.nz), Deadly Ponies (deadlyponies.com) and Precinct 35 (precinct35.co.nz). Stroll past Xoë Hall’s Starman-era David Bowie mural opposite Bowen Galleries (bowengalleries.co.nz), and enjoy a craft beer on the first-floor terrace of Fortune Favours brewery (fortunefavours.beer). SEE Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa Set on the waterfront, this jewel in the city’s arts crown hosts exhibitions about New Zealand’s Maori culture and heritage. The adjoining Toi Art gallery showcases works from thought-provoking colonial portraits to striking modern pieces by Kiwi artists such as Tiffany Singh and Michael Parekowhai. 55 Cable St, tepapa.govt.nz Located in the arty precinct of Hannah’s Lane, Wellington Chocolate Factory makes organic, single-origin, ethically traded…

1 APT Experience Europe like never before with APT. Only with APT can you board Australia’s most awarded, all-inclusive luxury Europe River Cruise. And with everything taken care of, you’re freer than ever. 1300 335 714, aptouring.com.au/Europe2019 2 Harrolds The latest collection by Italian-born, London-based designer Alessandra Rich balances restraint with seduction, and elegance with effortlessness. Available exclusively at Harrolds in Sydney. harrolds.com.au 3 Hunter Lab has extended its natural skincare range to feature luxurious activated charcoal cleansing products, including the Charcoal Mud Mask and the Charcoal Cleansing Stick, which both promote healthy skin. hunterlab.com.au 4 MG3 The perfect combination of style, performance and personality, the new MG3 Auto comes with a range of great features, including a seven-year warranty, available from $15,990-$17,990 driveaway. mgmotor.com.au 5 Mutti Experience the unrivalled…

Ricotta and silverbeet malfatti with sage burnt butter “The malfatti at Rosetta are absolutely addictive – could you please share the recipe so I can recreate them at home?” Natalie Liu, Artarmon, NSW REQUEST A RECIPE // TO REQUEST A RECIPE, EMAIL FAREEXCHANGE@BAUER›MEDIA.COM.AU…

I’m from two very different little islands. My Dad was from Bali and my Mum is Australian. I grew up in Tasmania, and I’ve lived in Bali for the past seven years. My children go to an incredible school near Ubud, called Green School, said to be the world’s first fully sustainable school. They’re very lucky. Growing up on small islands made me want to travel. I always wanted to see what the rest of the world was up to, so being able to find work that would accommodate that was really important to me. I’m lucky to travel regularly for work. Although I live in Bali, my work as the founder and designer of the luxury resortwear label Rama Voyage is based in Australia. I’ve also been on some…

1 BROOKLYN BRINE CO. WHISKEY PICKLES Start pouring the shots – these boozy bad boys are the ideal way to chase a Pickleback. Complex and full-flavoured, brimming with caraway and coriander seeds, with a hint of caramel, they’re just as enticing on their own as they are after a big swig of rye. $14.95 for 640gm. simonjohnson.com 2 PRESERVATION & CO. HEFEWEIZEN BREAD & BUTTER PICKLES Cider vinegar and the honeyed hit of hefeweizen lend a real sweetness to these compact slices. Their giving texture makes them a prime candidate for a supporting role in a cheddar toastie or between layers of salty meat in a Cuban midnight sandwich. $15.95 for 455gm. simonjohnson.com 3 HANDSOME DEVILS CO. CHIPOTLE PICKLES The onslaught of woody, dry cupboard spices that greets you mellows…

You’ll want to be drinking natural wines because they taste particularly good with fresh air. One of the most important things to remember when drinking outdoors: don’t forget the corkscrew. This sounds like outmoded advice now that pretty much every wine is bottled under screwcap (in itself possibly the greatest single development in the history of outdoors drinking), but there’s a couple of reasons why it’s still a good idea to pop a waiter’s friend into your pocket as you head out. Yes, most Australian wines are now under screw cap – but most European wines are still under cork. What’s more, natural winemakers, both Australian and European, tend to favour cork over screw. And you’ll want to be drinking natural wines because they taste particularly good with fresh air.…

Restaurant Hubert was the soigné setting for the latest instalment of hospitality’s night of nights, the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards. To celebrate the annual awards and the launch of the latest edition of Australia’s longest-running national restaurant guide, our biggest names in food flocked to the two-star restaurant for the announcement of Restaurant of the Year. The standard-setting fine-diner Quay basked in the glow of its new look and new menu, taking home Restaurant of the Year after an extensive renovation. Saint Peter chef Josh Niland was voted Chef of the Year by his peers in a remarkably rapid ascent for a young chef who just last year took home the Best New Talent honour. The latest Best New Talent winner is Ali Currey-Voumard, whose hyper-local, seasonal and ethical menus…

I am perched with my friend Timothy at a window seat at Smith & Daughters, the plant-based restaurant owned by Shannon Martinez and Mo Wyse, peering out onto a wet, shivering Melbourne evening. Despite booking a week in advance, the window was all I could get. We are sipping sharp Italian-New York inspired cocktails and anticipating a feast of faux-carnivorous delights: carpaccio and meatballs for entrée and polenta with beef ragù and chicken schnitzel for the main course. I’m not usually so carcass-oriented, but my friend – a meat-lover – is curious: how could a vegan restaurant have such a meaty menu? Will this be a return to the glutinous horror of the mock duck we pretended to enjoy as failed vegetarians at university? And when vegans say “fake meat”…

Charlie Carrington wasn’t looking for love in Israel. He was there for the recipes. Every four months his restaurant Atlas Dining changes cuisine and the Israeli chapter was up next. He flew there with a vague idea of what he was looking for but what he found dazzled him. “I fell in love with the simplicity of modern Israeli food,” he says. “It combines influences from the Mediterranean with a healthy, heavy vegetable focus and an approach to serving food that’s fast but never compromises on flavour.” The result of this new-found love is Colours Kitchen, a canteen in Prahran that serves Israeli-style salads along with sides of pita bread, meats and hummus. “These recipes are twists on the dishes we serve at Colours,” Carrington says. “They’re ideal for eating…

There’s nothing quick or simple about a lesson in Hindu cosmology. “First there’s Brahma, the creator of the universe, with his wife, Saraswati.” Charles points to a candy-coloured riot of gods and monsters gazing beatifically from the temple façade at Mylapore, in old Chennai. “Then there’s Vishnu, with blue face and four arms, the preserver and protector, with his wife Lakshmi, goddess of wealth and good fortune, in the red saree, though she changes with Vishnu’s incarnations…” With royally rounded vowels, our guide continues at length, describing the powers of the supergods, their chariots of choice (eagles, bulls, rats, peacocks) and the names of their many avatars. And their children’s names. Some say there are 33 million Hindu gods; others 330 million. Occasionally Charles will test me gently: “And Shiva…

Alex and Trahanas alexandtrahanas.com Amazon amazon.com.au Ancient Greek Sandals ancient-greek-sandals.com Asos asos.com.au Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au The Bay Tree (02) 9328 1101, thebaytree.com.au Beer Cartel beercartel.com.au Bottega Veneta (02) 9239 0188 Brett Stone utopiaartsydney.com.au Brigid McLaughlin brigidmclaughlin.com Bunnings bunnings.com.au Cecilie Copenhagen ceciliecopenhagen.com Chef Vs Clay djm.ceramics@gmail.com Chuchu chuchu.net.au Cibi (03) 9077 3941, cibi.com.au Città cittadesign.com Continental Delicatessen continentaldelicatessen.com.au Cornersmith cornersmith.com.au Cos cosstores.com Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au Cultiver cultiver.com Daiso mydaiso.com.au Di Lorenzo (02) 9698 8737, dilorenzo.com.au Didgeridoonas didgeridoonas.com.au Dinosaur Designs (02) 9698 3500, dinosaurdesigns.com.au Domayne domayneonline.com.au Downtown Music Sydney downtownmusicsydney.com.au Eco Food Boards ecofoodboards.com.au Etsy etsy.com Fjällräven fjallraven.com.au Gallantoro 1300 001 275, gallantoro.com Ginkgo Leaf ginkgoleaf.com.au Glassons glassons.com Harkham Wines harkhamwine.com.au The Happenstore thehappenstore.com Hay hayshop.com.au House house.com.au House of Arras houseofarras.com.au Hunted + Gathered huntedandgathered.com.au Ikea ikea.com.au Jac+Jack jacandjack.com Jatana Interiors jatanainteriors.com.au Kate Sylvester katesylvester.com.au Knife Shop Australia knifeshopaustralia.com.au Koskela (02) 9280 0999, koskela.com.au Latest Buy latestbuy.com.au Little White Dish littlewhitedish.com.au Living Edge (02) 9640 5600, livingedge.com.au Lunatiques lunatiques.net.au Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com Mecca 1800 007 844, mecca.com.au Montmartre Store (02) 9969 5456 Mud Australia (02) 9569 8181,…

NABEMONO, Master Den’s Poppu Uppu Kappo is gone, but anguish at its absence is lessened by its temporary successor, a sharply focused pop-up offering three Japanese hotpots – beef, seafood and mushroom – each accompanied by vegetables to simmer at the table. Get in quick as it’ll be gone by the end of October. Master Den’s Poppu Uppu, 1 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9639 9500. MICHAEL HARDEN, VICTORIA EDITOR BRAISED BROAD BEANS, Ottoman Cuisine There’s broad beans, then there’s double-podded broad beans. But what about cooking them in the pod? Pick the beans when they’re very young and tender, and not only can the whole bean be eaten, they can be haunting and elegant, as this Turkish take, accented with dill and sumac, demonstrates. Ottoman Cuisine, 9 Broughton St,…

Dan, what’s this about a new gig? Executive chef across the whole Establishment? I’m getting old! And I have three kids now. So basically I need to be a better father and husband. It’s a progression in my career where finally I don’t have to be slaving away in the kitchens till midnight every night. Even though my week still consists of doing service a few nights a week, I now have a better work-life balance. What does this new role involve? My role is to collaborate with and develop each of the chefs of each venue in the building: Mr Wong, Sushi E, Est, the main bar and Palmer & Co. I love seeing chefs under me grow into confident and creative leaders. Nothing makes me more satisfied. Where’s…

Borealis Basecamp Alaska is considered primarily a summer destination, yet there are about 250 nights a year in which the northern lights can be viewed from Borealis Basecamp, about 50 minutes’ drive north of Fairbanks, Alaska’s second-biggest city (population 33,000). In a new Adventure World itinerary, guests can view the night sky from bed in luxe fibreglass domes, and explore the backcountry on snowmobiles or dog sleds. 13 70 71, travel-associates.com.au Lapland Circle Adventure Stoke the fire, pull up the doona and view the lights overhead from a heated glass igloo on this three-day Bentours adventure in the Finnish wilderness of Lapland. The igloos, at Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, sleep up to six and have a fireplace and private sauna, or settle into the resort’s smoke sauna, said to be the…

Business is running hot and cold on the Mornington Peninsula. An ice cave full of falling “snow” and a deep freeze set to -25 degrees are among more heated pursuits in a $13-million expansion at Peninsula Hot Springs in Fingal. Seven new geothermal pools (including an aquatherapy pool) are fitted with underwater speakers, and surround a stage and amphitheatre for performances, talks and yoga. Also new are a third eatery, two 30-person saunas to complement the cold therapies, and a wellness centre. Further plans include accommodation in private lodges, a hotel and camping. Open daily 7am-10pm, 140 Springs La, Fingal, Vic, (03) 5950 8777, peninsulahotsprings.com…

People have always associated our restaurant closely with wild food and foraging, but the truth is that the defining pillar of Noma is fermentation. That’s not to say that our food is especially funky or salty or sour or any of the other tastes that people identify with fermentation. Try to picture French cooking without wine or Japanese cuisine without miso. Fermentation isn’t responsible for one specific taste at Noma – it improves everything. Each spring, we look forward to eating white asparagus, but its season is short. Fermenting the asparagus gives it an afterlife that keeps us sustained through the colder months of the year. This recipe comes from our long-time friend and anarchist farmer Søren Wiuff. The mild bitterness of the asparagus interacts with the citric acid of…

ANTIPASTI Traditionally, the olive salad is the star here. Green and Kalamata olives are chopped up and mixed with the likes of capers, vinegar, garlic and dried herbs such as oregano. Artichokes, sundried tomatoes and capsicum aren’t strangers to the sandwich and in A1’s version here, spinach plays a part. SLICED MEATS The musts: salami, ham and mortadella. They might be interspersed between helpings of cheese and antipasti or assembled all together. Soppressata and capocollo may also make an appearance. CHEESE You’ll see thin slices of provolone, Swiss and often, mozzarella. The cheese softens the hit of salt and acidity coming from the layers of cured meat and antipasto. BREAD The original loaf was a traditional Sicilian “muffuletto”. It resembled a large, flat hamburger bun with a sprinkling of sesame…

WORTH THE WAIT De Bortoli 20 Years Old Barrel Aged Black Noble, Riverina, $90 Bottled to celebrate the vineyard’s 90th winemaking anniversary, this fortified botrytis semillon is rich with dark caramelised marmalade and fruitcake flavours. debortoli.com.au GORGEOUS GIPPSLAND 2018 Fleet Amis Pinot Gris, Gippsland, $30 This dry pale copper pinot gris is exactly what you need with a spring salad: it smells fresh with herbal hints, and is crisp and crunchy on the tongue. fleetwines.com.au SINGULAR MALT Benromach 15 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Speyside, $145 After 15 years maturing in oloroso sherry and bourbon barrels, this single malt emerges with intense flavours of spice, grilled nuts, toast and a hint of raisin. Imported by albawhisky.com.au CELLAR ME 2017 Gundog Estate Rare Game Shiraz, Hunter Valley, $60 Outstanding Hunter…

Finger lime is a litmus-test ingredient. It’s powerful, and requires a restrained hand lest it obliterate every other flavour on the plate, so the way it’s deployed reveals exactly how much attention is being paid by the chef. At Sunda, chef Khanh Nguyen is clearly paying attention. It’s finger lime that seals the deal in his clever take on otak-otak. You see versions of this Indonesian fishcake, traditionally cooked in a banana leaf, all across Southeast Asia. At Sunda, though, it becomes a crab parfait flavoured with curry paste, coconut milk and finger lime, set with seaweed extract in an oblong mould. Presented on a rectangle of banana leaf, the parfait is topped with crabmeat mixed with lime zest and chives, chilli threads, coriander – and an exacting measure of…

Chicken scallopini with mushrooms SERVES 4 This Italian classic, topped with a medley of buttery mushrooms, is great for a Sunday meal. If you have time, salt the chicken the day before to really enhance the flavour. A green salad, fresh sliced sourdough or potatoes would be a welcome side. 4 skinless chicken breasts (200gm each), cut in half horizontally 3 tsp thyme, coarsely chopped 60 ml (1/4 cup) olive oil 300 gm mixed mushrooms such as king brown, wood-ear, shimeji, oyster and shiitake, coarsely chopped 40 gm softened butter Juice of ½ lemon, plus lemon wedges to serve 1 small garlic clove, finely grated ½ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley Green salad and sourdough (optional), to serve 1 Scatter chicken with thyme and salt. Heat a large frying pan…

The cement is hot and the street is bustling. I do my best to stay out of the way as I reach out to pay the vendor, a man of few words and lightning-quick hands, who presents me with a wrapped bundle. Peeling open the paper reveals lightly charred meat tumbling out of a disc of warm, soft flatbread. I take a bite and keep walking. You might be picturing this scene in Kolkata, with the vendor slinging kati rolls. Or maybe your mind went immediately to the dry, hot streets of Jerusalem and lamb shawarma. It’s possible you imagined rou jia mo, the shredded-pork buns of Shaanxi province in China. I could have been in my hometown of San Francisco, eating a carne asada taco. Any of these locations…

Artichoke and salted ricotta tart with salsa verde SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING, RESTING) This grown-up tart, brimming with fresh spring flavours, is made for enjoying outdoors on a rug in the sun. You can prepare all the elements in advance, then just assemble when you’re ready to head out for your picnic. If you can’t find fresh artichokes, use grilled and marinated artichokes (available from delicatessens). Fresh ricotta from the delicatessen will give best results – either buffalo or cow’s milk ricotta will do. 185 gm (1/2 sheet) Carême or other all-butter puff pastry 400 gm fresh ricotta 150 gm goat’s curd 6 large green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped BRAISED ARTICHOKES 4 globe artichokes 1 lemon, halved, plus 4 peeled…

As a Malaysian-born Chinese person, I didn’t really grasp the whole four seasons thing until I came to Australia; growing up, we had hot and wet and hot and wetter. But over the years of living here, I have acclimatised, and my understanding has deepened greatly since I moved to closer to the bush. Now the songs of the magpies and currawongs say to me that spring is upon us. When the broad beans, asparagus and peas in my veggie patch are ready for picking, I can’t help but be excited by the possibilities they create. Shall I stir-fry the broad beans with lup yuk, the cured belly pork flavoured with soy sauce? Or mash them like the cooks do in Shanghai? Or toss them with steamed eggplant? And the…

Getting there Singapore Airlines operates 137 direct flights a week between Singapore and six Australian cities – Adelaide, Brisbane, Canberra, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney – connecting with 10 flights weekly to Chennai, with regional carrier SilkAir. singaporeair.com Australians require a visa to travel to India. November to April is the cool – and peak travelling – season in Tamil Nadu. May to July is hot; June to December is monsoonal. Getting around Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent specialises in private and small-group journeys to southern India and throughout the subcontinent. Its 16-day limited-edition small-group tour “India: The Beautiful South”, for example, travels through Tamil Nadu and Kerala and costs from $9,895 per person twin share, with departures in February and October 2019. This includes hotel stays in Chennai, Pondicherry,…

Ricotta and silverbeet malfatti with sage burnt butter SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 25 MINS 150 gm unsalted butter, chopped 20 gm sage leaves Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated, to serve MALFATTI 1 kg silverbeet (about 1 bunch), stalks reserved for another use 730 gm (about 1 bunch) cime di rapa (see note), stalks discarded 320 gm (about 1 bunch) cavolo nero, stalks discarded 1½ tbsp olive oil 1 large garlic clove, bruised 500 gm buffalo ricotta, well-drained (see note) 50 gm (½ cup) fine dried breadcrumbs 1 egg 1 egg yolk ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 50 gm (⅓ cup) “00” flour 1 For malfatti, coarsely chop greens. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, add garlic and greens and stir occasionally until leaves are…