Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2018 i Gourmet Traveller

There’s a theme of reinvention throughout this issue. Taking something that works, breaking it down and reassembling it to see if it can’t be improved. It starts with René Redzepi’s Noma 2.0 in Copenhagen. We spoke to Redzepi in the manic few days before he threw open the doors at the most anticipated new restaurant in the world. He took us on a tour of the space that spans 11 buildings joined by glass and steel walkways and accented with Australian art. Set on an urban farm next to a man-made lake, it will become a new restaurant every four months as the season shifts focus from seafood to vegetables to game. It’s a wildly ambitious project that encompasses three greenhouses, tanks for live seafood, an ant farm, a room…

GRILLED BEEF RIB WITH CHIMICHURRI, Barrio You can take the boy out of Argentina, but you can’t take away his love of large meats. Or at least that’s the message you get when you order the beef from chef Francisco Smoje: a hunk of grilled rib, served sliced on the bone, carpeted with a chunky chimichurri and scorched onions. Barrio, 1 Porter St, Byron Bay, NSW. PAT NOURSE, MANAGING EDITOR APRICOT AND PEACH FROZEN SLICE, Bert’s Bar & Brasserie We’re big fans of inadvertent “snaccessorising” – when a dish perfectly matches an outfit or interior. And if there was ever a match for the glamour of the newly opened Bert’s, this grown-up Splice dessert – layers of tangy vanilla yoghurt with peach and apricot gelato and a playful whip of…

LOS ANGELES A NoMad hotel has opened on the West Coast: NoMad Los Angeles, the second property after the New York flagship. There are 241 rooms within the historic Bank of Italy building in Downtown, with a rooftop pool and multiple dining options. Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, of New York’s Eleven Madison Park, are behind the entire food and drink offering, with help from executive chef Chris Flint (Eleven Madison Park, NoMad NY). There’s The Coffee Bar, modelled after a 300-year-old café in Venice, a library that transforms into a cocktail bar, and an all-day lobby restaurant (Lobby) serving Italian-leaning dishes such as chicken Milanese, king crab tagliatelle and smoked eggplant lasagnette. The hotel is also doing an LA version of NoMad’s signature ice-cream sandwich, this time with bee…

We are now fully into what you might call “chocolate season”. It starts when the temperature drops just enough to ensure blocks and bars can be hidden away around the house without the fear they’ll melt on a hot day. But if you’re finding yourself sneaking into your stash just a little too often, don’t despair, there is another way: homemade bars that scratch the itch, with all the hallmarks of the best packeted versions – creaminess, crunch, chew, and richness – just without the packet. If at the same time you can use dates for sweetness rather than sugar, swap cream for coconut, and embrace extra-dark chocolate, then all the better. These recipes are a base – try candying nuts instead of popcorn, or use freeze-dried raspberries in place…

1 LORRAINE’S PÂTISSERIE The brownie at Lorraine’s Pâtisserie in Sydney is a crowd-pleaser. Made with both dark and milk chocolate, it’s a lighter and more subtly flavoured batch than most. And if your favourite part of a brownie is the thin flaky layer on top, this one does the same on the bottom. Another square? $6.50 per piece. merivale.com.au 2 PHILLIPPA’S With a recipe perfected over 24 years, the Belgian Chocolate Brownie by Phillippa’s is a classic. Made with Callebaut chocolate, walnuts and Dutch cocoa, it’s dense, and a treat to serve warm. Just add a scoop of ice-cream. $17-$21 for 360gm. phillippas.com.au 3 BLACK STAR PASTRY Are we picking favourites? Never. But if we were, this guy, teaming dark Valrhona chocolate and macadamia nuts, has the textural variation, structural…

Schwarzwälder kirschtorte doesn’t get its name from the Black Forest itself, but rather from Schwarzwälder kirschwasser or kirsch, the clear cherry brandy made in that region of south-west Germany. It’s typically used to spike the whipped cream and the dark-chocolate sponge that’s stacked in layers, sandwiching the cream and boozy cherries. It all makes for an impressive dessert gâteau, and while there are variations in presentation and ingredients – brandy and cherry juice in lieu of kirsch, for instance, or the addition of chocolate mousse or ganache – cherries, usually sour, chocolate and cream are non-negotiable. THE TOPPINGS Once the layers are assembled, which can be done in a springform cake tin, it’s topping time. Form curls of dark chocolate by shaving them from a cold block with a vegetable…

2016 Port Phillip Estate Balnarring Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula, $38 This silky, supple wine and its Red Hill sibling (also $38) are amazing value. You’d expect to pay twice as much for wines of this calibre. portphillipestate.com.au 2013 Catherine et Pierre Breton Nuits d’Ivresse, Bourgueil, Loire Valley, $40 Exceptional medium-bodied cabernet franc: crunchy, bright, juicy and nervy – delicious. Imported by george@ georgemccullough imports.com Balter XPA, Currumbin, $5 Brilliant balance of new-wave bitter hoppy perfume and old-style refreshing Aussie drinkability. No wonder it was voted number one in this year’s GABS Hottest 100 craft beer poll. balter.com.au 2017 Rieslingfreak No 5 Off-Dry Riesling, Clare Valley, $25 John Hughes is winning awards left, right and centre for his rieslings – such as this scintillating, pristine, refreshing example of the off-dry style…

If there’s one room in the house where you want versatility and state-of-the-art technology, it’s the kitchen. Look no further than the winning combination of a Wolf Steam Oven and Wolf Gas Cooktop, which allows you to effortlessly conjure up several dishes at once and use different cooking techniques at the same time. These pork dumplings, for instance, start on the cooktop, which has five dual-stacked burners that give precision heat control, from super-fast boiling times to the most gentle simmer. The dumplings are first lightly fried to bring caramelised flavour to the skins, then they’re transferred to the steam oven to finish cooking. In the meantime, you can have vegetables steaming and a roast on the go, all while the oven is monitoring optimum temperature and cooking times. PORK…

Miso-glazed mushrooms with walnuts and black barley SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 35 MINS Grains are wonderful cooked pilaf-style – they’ll plump up and take in other flavours really easily. Don’t forget the walnuts here to add some crunch. 1 tbsp olive oil 40 gm butter 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 750 ml (3 cups) chicken stock 250 gm black barley (see note) 1 tbsp shiro (white) miso 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp sake 300 gm Swiss brown mushrooms, sliced 2 tsp rice wine vinegar Roasted walnuts, to serve Baby shiso leaves (optional), to serve 1 Heat oil and half the butter in a saucepan over high heat, add onion and garlic and stir occasionally until tender (5-6 minutes). Add…

Today’s food distribution systems are such that almost all global foods are available in Japan. This has diluted traditional culinary mores, and one ironic result of that is an increased nostalgia for those very traditions. All kinds of Japanese ingredients, even somewhat obscure ones from small producers, are also now accessible throughout Japan, which has given rise to a renewed interest and excitement about previously regional Japanese foods. Japan: The Cookbook is not an examination of “regional” cooking traditions, as much as a curated experience of Japan’s culinary framework from a specific moment in time. Using both fine and generous strokes, I have put together what I hope is a broad and rich picture of the food of this island nation. Mostly, the Japanese I talked to shook their heads…

Sarah Oakes, editor; Robertson, NSW Like stepping back in time, the Robertson Show has country charm and community spirit in spades. Come for the spud races, stay for the CWA scones with jam and cream. @sarahaliceoakes Laura Jacobs, junior designer; Boranup, WA Going home to WA always includes a visit to our family property in Boranup. Part of the Margaret River wine region, days start watching the sun rise over the karri trees, and end with a glass of Leeuwin Estate shiraz. @laurajanejacobs Liz Elton, creative director; Forster, NSW I’m not much of a camper, but call it “glamping”, throw in a teepee, a real bed, some Persian rugs and tell me I can bring my dog and apparently I can be persuaded. BYO Heston Blumenthal charcoal barbecue to really…

WHO Dr Marty’s Crumpets won’t cure your arthritis or clear up your cough, but they're healing in a comfort-carb way. Martin Beck is a chef by way of MoVida who fell into the crumpet business in 2013 while looking for a change. He now supplies wholemeal and original crumpets to about 80 Melbourne cafés and restaurants including Tivoli Road Bakery and Spring Street Grocer. WHAT Using a simple mix of Laucke organic flour from South Australia (a tip-off from Tivoli Road Bakery’s Michael James), yeast, Mount Zero’s olive oil and pink lake salt, baking powder, raw sugar and water, Beck and his team of six (including his wife, Selma) hand-ladle 1000 crumpets a day onto flat-top grills, six days a week. The result is a small-batch crumpet that’s tall and…

Seabourn Ovation Seabourn Cruise Line promised “ultra luxury” when it launched its 600-passenger Seabourn Encore in late 2016, and it repeats the brief with twin sister ship Seabourn Ovation, which débuts in May. Both ships are designed by prolific hospitality designer Adam D Tihany, with the look and feel of a luxury yacht in curvaceous lines, and the liberal use of mahogany, chrome and leather. High-profile partnerships include a restaurant and bar by three-starred chef Thomas Keller and a spa and “mindful living” program by Dr Andrew Weil. seabourn.com The A and The B The first river cruise company dedicated to travellers aged 21 to 45 sets sail this month. U by Uniworld, a new brand by the well-established Uniworld line, has renovated two 120-passenger ships, renaming them The A…

I spend a lot of time flying and driving to get to regional theatres and arts centres around Australia, but I love it. Regional audiences are the best. I crochet now to help pass the time (only when I’m flying, obviously, not driving). I’m constantly astounded by my appalling sense of direction. I can’t even follow a GPS. I once took three and a half hours to drive from Melbourne to Bendigo with the GPS constantly telling me to “make a U-turn and proceed to the route”. I was so exasperated by the time I arrived that I taped the GPS under a seat and gave it away that night as a lucky door prize. When I’m travelling for work or with someone else, I’m never late to the airport.…

“Some radishes, like Pink Beauty, are shy and remain demurely covered, but daikon leap from the earth like breaching whales.” The first vegetable I ever grew was a radish. In my childhood garden we already had silverbeet, peas and asparagus. I don’t know why it was decided one spring that I should grow radishes – none of us liked them. It was the ’80s, and our salad repertoire consisted of tinned pineapple and beetroot, a mayonnaisey pasta salad and iceberg lettuce. Spicy things were something exotic to eat as a dare, but in a concrete-bound triangle between the paths to the shed and the compost heap, I sowed my seeds and they grew. I have visions of pretty red baubles, but I can’t remember eating them. Fast-forward 30 years and…

Perhaps it’s the soundtrack. Richard Clapton’s “Girls on the Avenue”, Stevie Wright’s “Evie”, Midnight Oil’s “Blue Sky Mine”. But there’s also nostalgia with the location. The sleepy strip of mostly single-storey shops in West Footscray feels more small-town 1970s than Melbourne suburb-on-the-rise. Most probably it’s just that Harley & Rose, the first venture by McConnell alumni Josh Murphy and Rory Cowcher, has landed with such confidence that it feels like it’s been here forever, slinging wood-fired pizza, Meatsmith charcuterie and minimal-intervention wine since Skyhooks were in the charts. The circa-1960s Modernist bank building plays its part. It was a pizza restaurant before Murphy and Cowcher rode into town, bringing Projects of Imagination with them to do the fit-out. It’s quirky now, with blond timber banquettes, acres of beige canvas blinds,…

Casarecce with pork sausage, cavolo nero and chilli  SERVES 4-6 There’s no beating a warm, comforting bowl of pasta. Classic Italian flavours – pork, fennel, cavolo nero and chilli – do the trick here. Can’t find casarecce? Penne and rigatoni work a treat. 2 tbsp olive oil 4 thick pork and fennel sausages, skins removed, broken into bite-sized pieces 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary 1½ tsp fennel seeds 1½ tsp dried chilli flakes 125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine 125 ml (½ cup) chicken stock 4 cups (firmly packed) roughly torn cavolo nero (about 1 bunch) 500 gm dried casarecce 50 gm finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve ¼ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 Heat olive oil in a large casserole over…

“It’s the miso of Australia, ready to add a dash of dark-brown complexity to anything it touches.” Breakfast lunch and tea? Chefs in Australia have played with Vegemite on and off over the years, but right now everyone’s favourite yeasty spread is really having a moment in the kitchens of our leading restaurants and cafés. Followers of Ben Shewry’s Instagram feed will notice that he has just doubled down on Attica’s commitment to Vegemite (first made three years ago with Gazza’s Vegemite pie), experimenting with that mum-lunch classic Salada crackers with tomato and Vegemite. This being a restaurant that charges a cool $275 a head for dinner, of course, the tomatoes are grown by the team, the heavily buttered Salada ain’t Arnott’s and the “Vegemite” is made from scratch using…

Mess with Anzac biscuits at your peril. “Serious breaches” of the Protection of Word “Anzac” Act of 1920 can meet with serious penalties: up to a year in prison or $10,200 for a “natural person” and $51,000 for a “body corporate”. So how much can you alter the recipe while staying on the right side of the law and the Anzac spirit? Is there really any improving on a classic? The Department of Veterans’ Affairs says applications for permission to use the term Anzac commercially for biscuits are normally approved “provided the product generally conforms to the traditional recipe and shape, and are referred to as ‘Anzac Biscuits’ or ‘Anzac Slice’”. Calling them Anzac cookies is generally not approved “due to the non-Australian overtones”. But what is the traditional recipe?…

Apart from the occasional rush of jet engines, Botany Road in Mascot is a straight-up-and-down suburban strip complete with a chicken shop, a discount chemist, an IGA and a cake store. Look a little closer at the pub, though, and all is not as it seems. Round the back of the Tennyson Hotel in the old drive-through the lights are down, the music’s up and a wood-fired oven is running hot. Chairs are scattered around the concrete floor, plates of focaccia come out draped in lardo, and patrons don vintage ski suits to duck into the walk-in cool room. Past the slabs of XXXX and VB, Franck Moreau, master sommelier, has filled the shelves with outstanding wines at outstanding value. This is Mr Liquor’s Dirty Italian Disco, the latest incarnation…

In the pit below the gold-embroidered theatre scrim emblazoned with a double-headed imperial Russian eagle, the orchestra is warming up on a chilly autumn evening in Saint Petersburg. Their brows furrowed, they test and tune their instruments with the kind of intense concentration I recall in the characters of Dostoyevsky, Tolstoy and Turgenev, the leading lights of the famously intense Russian canon that I laboured through many years ago at university. In a different way, I’m limbering up, too, since this is the first night of a highly anticipated journey by ship into the heart of Russia. I’ve long been curious about life in the world’s largest nation, but also humbled by the scale of this Slavic enigma. I owe my grail to the 18th-century Romantic poet Lord Byron, who…

Omega is proud to announce that it will join the Volvo Ocean Race 2017-18 as the event’s Official Timekeeper. Omega celebrates this new partnership through the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M “Deep Black” in red. $6,525. omegawatches.com Harvey Norman The Broodie Floor Lamp is a great piece to create a retro look. With an on-trend copper-coloured shade and a matte-black lamp body, it adds a stylish finishing touch to any space around the home. $399. harveynorman.com.au Riedel The Fatto a Mano range, available in six colours and six grape varieties combines the elegance of Venetian tradition in a handmade stem and base with a machine made bowl. $129.95 per piece, $599.95 for a 6 pack. riedel.com Holland America Line Experience Japan’s cherry-blossom season and hanami, the celebration of traditional art and…

Don’t miss Eat your way through Kuromon Ichiba, one of Japan’s largest food markets, while admiring the gleaming seafood and impeccably fresh produce from more than 150 vendors. At the modest Takoyaki Wanaka stall, a line forms every morning for what are some of the city’s best octopus balls. Other highlights are a knife shop that’s been open since 1775, and a tea house dating back to 1937. 2 Chome 4-1 Nipponbashi SEE Bunraku Founded in Osaka in the early 17th century, the traditional Japanese theatre of bunraku stars puppets so big they’re controlled by three puppeteers. Stories of heroes and demons are accompanied by a chanter and a musician playing the shamisen, a three-stringed instrument. The National Bunraku Theatre offers English audio guides. 1 Chome 12-10 Nipponbashi, ntj.jac.go.jp/english STAY…

Measures & equipment • All cup and spoon measures are level and based on Australian metric measures. • Eggs have an average weight of 59gm unless otherwise specified. • Fruit and vegetables are washed, peeled and medium-sized unless otherwise specified. • Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. • Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based; cake tins are stainless steel, unless otherwise specified. Cooking tips • When seasoning food, we use sea salt and freshly ground pepper. • To blanch an ingredient, cook it briefly in boiling water, then drain it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty of iced water, then drain it. • We recommend using free-range eggs, chicken and pork. We use female pork for preference. • Makrut lime leaves are…

Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au Bison Home (02) 6257 7255, bisonhome.com Cargo Crew cargocrew.com.au Céline celine.com Chanel 1300 242 635, chanel.com Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au Dinosaur Designs (02) 9698 3500, dinosaurdesigns.com.au Francalia (02) 9948 4977, francalia.com.au H&M Studio hm.com/au Hale Mercantile Co halemercantileco.com Hub (02) 9217 0700, hubfurniture.com.au Ikea ikea.com.au In Bed Store inbedstore.com Jook Ceramics itsajook.com Kana London kanalondon.com Karen Walker karenwalker.com Katherine Mahoney katherinemahoney.id.au M.A.C maccosmetics.com.au Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com Mecca 1800 007 844, mecca.com.au Mr. Draper mrdraper.com.au Mud Australia (02) 9569 8181, mudaustralia.com Myer myer.com.au Net-a-Porter net-a-porter.com Papaya (02) 9386 9980, papaya.com.au Quies Designs quiesdesigns.com Riedel (02) 9966 0033, riedelglass.com.au Studio Enti studioenti.com.au The DEA Store (02) 9698 8150, thedeastore.com The Essential Ingredient theessentialingredient.com.au The Forty-Nine Studio thefortynine.com.au West Elm westelm.com.au Witchery 1800 640 249, witchery.com.au This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your…

Dark chocolate pots de crème with ginger pear SERVES 8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS CHILLING) Stokehouse Q, Sidon St, South Bank, Brisbane, Qld, (07) 3020 0600, stokehouseq.com.au 2 tsp finely diced crystallised ginger, to serve CHOCOLATE POTS 520 ml pouring cream 250 ml (1 cup) milk 2¼ tsp Dutch process cocoa 6 egg yolks 65 gm caster sugar 130 gm dark chocolate (55%-60% cocoa solids), finely chopped PEAR IN GINGER SYRUP 250 gm caster sugar 25 gm (5cm piece) ginger, thickly sliced 2 large corella pears, peeled, cored and cut into 3cm pieces 1 For chocolate pots, preheat oven to 160°C and place eight 150ml-200ml ramekins in a deep roasting pan. Whisk cream, milk and cocoa in a saucepan over medium heat,…

A happy union of cream and chocolate, ganache is a staple of the pastry kitchen. Its many applications depend on its consistency, which changes as it cools and sets. “Ganache is a basic building block,” says Alistair Wise, of Hobart’s Sweet Envy. “Once you master it, you can use it in a whole bunch of ways: we whip it and use it in our Brooklyn blackout cake, pipe it onto macarons, use it to make chocolate buttercream for cakes, or use it as a glaze. It makes life pretty easy.” Room temperature is best for storage, but there are exceptions to every rule. “If it’s 40 degrees, don’t do it,” Wise says. “Making ganache in a place like Cairns makes no sense. You should be sucking a mango.” Step by…

I remember every detail of my abuela’s hot chocolate. The way she made it with fresh ginger, using local dark chocolate, and served it in a particular blue mug. The memory of sitting there in the Dominican Republic, the breeze coming off the sea, surrounded by the voices of the strong women in my family, is something I will cherish forever. From those beginnings, hot chocolate has grown to be something of a fascination for me, and over the past five years I’ve been seeking out the best hot chocolate and keeping a diary of my travels online at ultimatehotchocolate.com. Why hot chocolate? Each has a story to tell about the origin of the chocolate used and who the maker was. At Soma in Toronto or CacaoDada in Seoul you…

WHAT IS IT? Kaya is very sweet coconut custard made with coconut milk and sugar, thickened with egg and often flavoured with pandan leaf. It’s popular throughout South-East Asia, particularly in Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore and parts of Indonesia. There are two main types: Hainanese kaya made with caramelised or brown sugar, which has a rich caramel colour, and Nyonya kaya, tinted green by the pandan that flavours it. In addition, the recipe varies from house to house – some use duck eggs, others chicken; some are thick and spreadable while others have a thinner consistency. Considering the ingredients, it’s no surprise that the word translates to “rich” in Malay. The best versions are beautifully smooth and so thick you can stand a spoon up in them. WHY DO WE…

“Turkey isn’t the only very old wine-producing country with ancient indigenous vines that has attracted the attention of sommeliers.” Can’t keep up with all the new and obscure grape varieties crowding your favourite bar or indie wine merchant? I’m here to help. Tuck these five names away in your memory bank for the next time you’re scanning the list or browsing the shelves, and you’ll feel like a true wine adventurer. PINEAU D’AUNIS This red grape from France’s Loire Valley is particularly popular with sommeliers at the moment, partly because it produces wines in the fashionable medium-bodied, juicy style – with plenty of wild berry, undergrowthy flavour – and partly because some of the most revered natural-wine producers, such as Thierry Puzelat of Clos du Tue-Boeuf, use it. A couple…

Exclusive cooking events WITH HARVEY NORMAN AND AUSTRALIA’S FINEST CHEFS It's been 10 years since Gourmet Institute started bringing you together with your favourite kitchen talent at Harvey Norman, so what better way to celebrate than with an all-star season of celebratory dishes? Whether it's your first year joining the party or your 10th, you can expect a warm welcome, tasty ideas and new ways to rock your kitchen. Melbourne GUY GROSSI BEN SHEWRY Sydney GUILLAUME BRAHIMI PAUL CARMICHAEL JAMES VILES DAN HONG Gold  Coast CHASE KOJIMA BEN DEVLIN Adelaide JOCK ZONFRILLO DUNCAN WELGEMOED DON'T MISS OUT. BOOK NOW. TICKETS $65 EACH BOOK YOUR TICKETS NOW AT GOURMETINSTITUTE.PLEEZPAY.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT HARVEYNORMAN.COM.AU/GOURMET-INSTITUTE OR CALL KARLA KEMPSON (02) 9282 8386 SYDNEY 11 APRIL CLASSIC FRENCH DINNER PARTY WITH GUILLAUME BRAHIMI,…

Topher Boehm, head brewer and co-founder of Wildflower Brewing & Blending, remembers precisely the moment he knew he’d made a beer he could be proud of. “I sat my wife down right here and had the beer arranged in a basket. I set the whole scene for her,” the Texan says, gesturing to the rustic wooden table in his 1890s, timber-beamed former metal foundry warehouse in Marrickville, in Sydney’s inner west. In the past, she’d found many beers were too bitter for her palate. Tentatively, she took a sip. “It’s really good, Topher,” she said. It wasn’t long before some variation of this phrase was being uttered throughout the wider epicurean community across Australia. Since its launch last year, Wildflower has spread like, well, wildfire. It started with a small…

Little brownie cakes with fudge sauce MAKES 8 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS COOLING) These seemingly small cakes can easily be shared between two, depending on your tolerance for richness. That said, diehard chocoholics will have no trouble devouring the lot. Choose your audience – and portioning – accordingly. 190 gm butter, coarsely chopped 190 gm dark chocolate (60%-68% cocoa solids), coarsely chopped 210 gm brown sugar 3 eggs 130 gm plain flour 40 gm Dutch-process cocoa ¼ tsp baking powder 90 gm (½ cup) coarsely chopped milk chocolate 40 gm slivered or coarsely chopped pistachio nuts, plus extra finely chopped to serve Pistachio or vanilla ice-cream, to serve FUDGE SAUCE 150 gm caster sugar 170 gm dark chocolate (54%-58% cocoa solids), finely chopped 140…

Fowey Hall sits over the small harbour town of Fowey, on display like a trophy. It was built in 1899 by Charles Hanson, who had returned from Canada after making his fortune in timber. With its square corner towers, imperious arches and a lead-domed bellcote, it was designed so none should be left in any doubt that here was a local boy made good. The imposing, slightly batty edifice is now a hotel. While I’m checking in, I take a stab at pronouncing the name and, figuring I’ve got a 50-50 chance of getting it right, plump for “Foh-ee” over “Fow-ee”. “It’s pronounced Foy,” says the receptionist kindly in her luscious Cornish lilt. “It rhymes with joy.” This eccentric turn of phonemes isn’t the only thing to leave me wrong-footed.…