Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2017 i Gourmet Traveller

FUSILLI, COZZE E CECI, Fico House-made fusilli, cooked bang-on al dente, served with local mussels and a purée of chickpeas cooked in dashi, finished generously with paprika and finely zested lemon, and lifted with sprigs of wild fennel – and not a skerrick of cheese in sight. Fico, 51A Macquarie St, Hobart, Tas, (03) 6245 3391 SUE DYSON AND ROGER McSHANE, TASMANIA EDITORS AGNOLOTTI DI CARNE E PARMIGIANO ESPUMA, Sosta Cucina Translation: gorgeous hand-pinched parcels of pork, veal and mortadella tossed with a rich and enormously satisfying parmesan zabaglione seasoned generously with black pepper. It’s typical of the standard of pasta that’s kept this old-school-style Italian joint humming for the past decade. Sosta Cucina, 12 Errol St, North Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9329 2882 MICHAEL HARDEN, VICTORIA EDITOR SPAGHETTI ALLA CHITARRA,…

PACCHERI Neapolitan for “slap” (as in slap you in the face while you eat it), these tubes are wider than rigatoni and fatter than cannelloni. Find them tossed with prawn and Napoli sauce at Osteria Ilaria in Melbourne, or stuffed with octopus at Wyno in Sydney. MALLOREDDUS Think of tiny gnocchi. Gnochetti, even –which is what they’re called in Sardinia. Locals serve them with rich sauces and pecorino. Acme in Sydney does a spelt version with king brown mushrooms, walnuts and rosemary. Both are winners. MAFALDE These ribbons with one or both edges curled are great for holding on to sauce, such as the braised rabbit and pecorino at Tartufo in Brisbane. Pino’s Vino e Cucina in Sydney, meanwhile, tosses them through a wild boar ragù. LORIGHITTAS Chef Giovanni Pilu…

Why did you become a chef? Because I was shit at maths – true story. When I was in middle school, my friend suggested we go to chef school (because there would be no maths and we could travel the world) and I was like, yeah, done, sold. And so here I am. You’ve just opened Matteo in Double Bay. Tell us about it. It’s a big Italian restaurant that is still comfortable and cosy. The space used to house the restaurant Limoncello, where I worked about seven years ago, but we stripped the whole place and changed basically everything except the tiles. Matteo is also the name of my five-month-old son – it’s been a busy few months. Standout dishes on the menu? Our linguine with scampi, and the…

With the dust barely settled on their Chinese Sydney pop-up Good Luck Pinbone, chefs Mike Eggert and Jemma Whiteman are at work on their next shape-shifting venture, this time in partnership with juggernaut Sydney restaurant group Merivale. This month they open Mr Liquor Dirty Italian Disco in the drive-through of the group’s Tennyson Hotel in Mascot. Italianate food and a pick-and-drink system that takes advantage of the ample fridge space at the pub’s bottle shop are the calling cards. “We were thinking of restaurants that are always fun – when it’s more than just a meal and you have a really good time,” Eggert says. “To us, Italian food is always happy.” Eggert and Whiteman have a wood-fired oven to work with, which they plan to use for everything from…

Ricotta, meaning “recooked” in Italian, is traditionally made from the whey leftover from making cheese. The residual protein in the whey forms the curds with the addition of an acidic element and heat. The fresh ricotta here, however, is made using whole milk and cream, lemon juice and salt. The heat curdles the mixture, separating the curds and whey. When the curds are drained, the result is creamy ricotta that’s unbeatable slathered still warm on bread with jam, crumbled over pasta or salads, or made into cheesecake. “Ricotta is the perfect entry point to cheesemaking,” says Sydney cheesemaker Kristen Allan. “It’s the easiest fresh cheese to make.” For ricotta recipes see page 98. Toolkit The milk you choose for making ricotta will effect the result. Allan prefers small-batch milk for…

WHAT IS IT? Colatura di alici is a deeply savoury Italian fish sauce; it derives from a sauce called garum that was popular in ancient Rome. It’s produced in Campania from fermented local anchovies caught off the Amalfi Coast, notably at a fishing village called Cetara. The amber liquid is sold in small bottles, an indication of its potency. Colatura di alici is considered a delicacy and priced as such. Thankfully a little goes a long way. WHY DO WE CARE? This sauce adds complexity and depth to many dishes. It’s a natural addition to many a seafood dish, but also excellent for seasoning a simple grilled steak, say, or in a quick pasta dish like the one here. The secret is to add it at the end of cooking…

Melbourne’s bar culture had its Big Bang moment 23 years ago in a CBD laneway site renovated by then-fledgling architecture group Six Degrees. That game-changing bar, Meyers Place, closed recently and to prove, perhaps, that nature abhors a vacuum, a new bar designed by Six Degrees has just opened in a nearby laneway. And, yes, it’s also something of a game-changer. Arlechin shows how far Melbourne’s laneway bars have evolved in two decades. For starters, it’s an irony-free zone. A 40-seater with herringbone parquet timber floors, barrel-vaulted cork ceiling, backlit wine cellar, marble-topped bar, fully equipped kitchen and a young, well-credentialled team, it’s as far as you can get from the punk DIY aesthetic of the early scene. Second, Arlechin comes from the Grossi family, owners of Grossi Florentino, the…

Roast chicken thighs with sourdough panzanella SERVES 4 Use whatever stale sourdough you have on hand for the panzanella – dark rye, for instance, will add extra complexity to this simple Tuscan tomato and bread salad. 80 ml (⅓ cup) olive oil 2 tbsp thyme 1½ tsp dried chilli flakes 3 garlic cloves, chopped 8 chicken thighs, bone in, skin on 2 ripe red or yellow oxheart tomatoes, cut into 4cm pieces 400 gm mixed heirloom tomatoes, cut into wedges ½ small Spanish onion, thinly sliced ½ tsp caster sugar 100 gm crustless day-old sourdough, torn 1 Lebanese cucumber, coarsely chopped 1 cup (firmly packed) basil, plus extra to serve ANCHOVY AND GARLIC DRESSING 125 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tbsp aged red wine vinegar 1 tbsp lemon…

There was no confusion when the second heart attack hit. He was suddenly shattered by the pain stabbing through his chest. Pavoni thought he was going to die. The heart attack took two days. It was a slow-motion realisation that even Alessandro Pavoni’s doctor missed. No one saw the signs. Or rather, there were no signs to see. The experience was nothing like what heart attacks on TV might have you expect – no clutching of the chest or gasping for breath. Pavoni was 36 years old, a surfer and yoga devotee, and a hotshot executive chef at the Park Hyatt Sydney. And he was very nearly a dead man. It was a blood test that the doctor ordered, “just in case”, that saved Pavoni’s life. There had been a…

Calabria Pasquale Trimboli, chef-owner, Italian & Sons, Bacaro, Mezzalira and Da Rosario, Canberra I’m from a small village called Platì in Calabria, on the slopes of the Aspromonte mountains. Platì has a population of about 4000. They keep things simple: there’s one road in, one road out, and a small bar in the main piazza where all the men gather after lunch and discuss life, sport and women. My relatives who have remained in the village are farmers and either grow or hunt. They rarely go to the supermarket. They rear their own pigs and cows, make cheese, cure meats, make wine and olive oil from their groves. Our meals together are a celebration of their hard work and this close connection with the land. You must eat ’nduja when…

Don’t miss Acetaia Giusti For pure-produce euphoria, go to Mercato Albinelli, Modena’s covered market (mercatoalbinelli.it). To delve deeper into local gastronomic traditions, visit Acetaia Giusti, the birthplace of balsamic vinegar, circa 1605. Some barrels haven’t been empty since the 18th century; the vintages of the oldest vinegars can be traced back to the 1600s. Hour-long tours conclude with tastings. Strada delle Quattro Ville, 155, giusti.it STAY Vittorio Veneto 25 This century-old three-storey villa bordering the old city has a classic Modenese façade – balcony, shuttered windows – and textured, modern interiors thanks to a 2015 renovation. Wi-fi and espresso machines are standard; the two suites offer more relaxation space. CIty sights are a stroll or short drive away, and parking is free. Viale Vittorio Veneto, 25, vittorioveneto25.it SHOP La Vacchetta…

APTJoin APT and Gourmet Traveller on a once-in-a-lifetime journey in 2018. Six tailor-made itineraries across Europe and Asia provide insights into each destination and the local cuisine. 1300 335 714, aptouring.com.au/GourmetTraveller LurpakMade using 100 per cent fresh milk with a pinch of salt, Lurpak is the perfect butter for cooking, baking and spreading, enriching just about any dish. Available from supermarkets nationally. Priced $6. lurpak.com/en-au/naturalness GaggenauThe 90cm-wide EB 333 wall oven, $14,999, is the latest version of Gaggenau’s 300 Series oven, updated to celebrate the company’s 333rd anniversary, yet staying true to the original’s design and capabilities. gaggenau.com/au Outdoor Travel Explore Europe’s scenery, history and culture on a hotel barge cruise. Six-night cruises take in Burgundy’s vineyards, Canal du Midi in Venice, the Scottish Highlands or River Thames. Priced from…

Pea risotto with buffalo mozzarella and spring herbs “The pea risotto at Fico in Hobart is the best I’ve had. Could you please print the recipe?” Alasdair Lyne, Battery Point, Tas REQUEST A RECIPE // EMAIL FAREEXCHANGE@BAUER-MEDIA.COM.AU…

Helen Anderson, travel editor; Uluru, NT Big sky, big desert, big rock. All the things I love about Uluru came together during a wander through the Field of Light. Even better, the season has been extended to 31 March 2018. @handersonglobal Brooke Donaldson, deputy art director; Waikiki, Honolulu My friend Anya and I wanted to escape winter and where better than Hawaii? We spent two weeks in the sun, exploring Oahu and enjoying cocktails on the beach. Mai Tais ahoy. @brookedonaldson1 Maggie Scardifield, staff writer; northern NSW My partner, Morgan, and I spent a few days exploring Cabarita Beach. Our meal at Fleet in Brunswick Heads, and two nights at Halcyon House, was a fantastic way to welcome spring. @mjscardi…

Glacial pace The French hotelier Maisons & Hotels Sibuet has applied the Sibuet family’s customary élan to a remote alpine retreat in the Mont-Blanc range, high above the ski town of Chamonix. Built in 1880 for mountaineers, Terminal Neige Refuge du Montenvers is perched on the edge of Mer de Glace glacier, which is visible from all 19 rooms and suites, a 10-bed dormitory and the two restaurants. The journey here is part of the adventure – guests depart Chamonix on the little red Montenvers train that climbs through pine forest to the lodge, in time for a traditional Savoyard lunch on a terrace beside the mighty glacier. Rooms from €190. refuge.terminal-neige.com MYSTIC RIVER A seven-night cruise on the Mekong is a highlight of a 13-day tour of Cambodia and…

 What’s your earliest food memory? Sitting on the marble benches in the kitchen at The Restaurant Manfredi in 1991. I’d watch my nonna making pasta and every so often she’d feed me a bit of the raw dough. “I got my first big job working at a fine-dining restaurant in Sydney. On my first night, I dropped an entire table’s meal onto the floor in front of them.” You’ve grown up spending a lot of time in restaurants. What makes a good one? That’s a mystery, just like a good song. There’s no formula – it’s about a certain energy coupled with great execution. Your father, Stefano Manfredi, is a wonderful and well-respected chef. What has he taught you about food? Many things – but above all he taught me…

“I can’t imagine anyone feeling for an iceberg lettuce what I feel as I cut into a fat palla rossa radicchio.” I grew them first for their beauty. Treviso’s spear-shaped, deep-red leaves, and bold, white veins demand admiration, and peeling away the lettuce-like outer leaves of Castelfranco to reveal a heart of white splashed with blood-red stains is more magnificent than unwrapping any gift. Grumolo radicchio, nicknamed gnome cabbage by my daughters (it looks for all the world like a cabbage hit with a shrink ray), proved its worth when I used some in table decorations for a visiting chef’s dinner, where my friend began eating the arrangements while waiting for her meal. Then I grew them for their ease. The long, green leaves of spadona chicory resisted pests and…

“[The farmers in Brazil told me] they were producing ordinary coffee then Nespresso came along and said look, let’s show you how to get the best out of your coffee plants.” SHANNON BENNETT Creative Director, Vue de monde COMMON GROUND His name is a byword for fine dining in Australia but Shannon Bennett knows that serving up unsustainable produce, no matter how delicious, is a no-go. “Chefs have a responsibility,” says Shannon Bennett, Creative Director at Vue de monde. “If chefs don’t buy a particular product doing harm to the environment, then that practice will stop. So chefs have to wake up and realise their responsibilities, and I think that if they start talking to partners like Nespresso, they’ll learn a hell of a lot.” Bennett, who uses a Nespresso…

Is the decade-defining bread of the ’90s back on the rise? DAVID MATTHEWS checks the country’s bread baskets. The question rings out into cyberspace: “What are your favourite focaccia fillings – either those you buy or make yourself?” I’m deep in archived Vogue Australia forums. I expect no responses, or maybe some light ridicule. But the answers fly back: pesto and lemon; chicken, avocado and Swiss cheese; char-grilled eggplant, sundried tomatoes, feta. Four pages, all positive. Then, on 20 April 2005, it goes silent. And I think to myself, I’ve pinpointed when focaccia died in Australia. Died? Maybe not. You can still have it the way you used to: at Tropicana Caffe in Sydney’s Darlinghurst focaccia service runs till four; Brunetti in Melbourne still kicks it how it always has.…

Prosciutto and parmesan cappellacci with brown butter and asparagus SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS RESTING) A simple filling of fancy ham and cheese for this hat-shaped pasta is complemented here by a nutty brown-butter sauce. 150 gm chilled butter, diced 2 tsp fresh thyme 2 tsp fresh oregano 2 bunches asparagus, trimmed and coarsely chopped 2 tsp lemon juice Finely grated parmesan (optional), to serve SEMOLINA PASTA DOUGH 300 gm (2 cups) semolina flour, plus extra for dusting 75 gm (½ cup) plain flour, plus extra for dusting 4 eggs PROSCIUTTO AND PARMESAN FILLING 80 gm prosciutto, finely chopped 60 gm coarsely grated parmesan 40 gm breadcrumbs from a crusty white loaf, crusts removed 2-3 tbsp milk 1 For pasta dough, process ingredients…

We’ve travelled all over Tuscany during the past 20 years. It’s Giancarlo’s homeland. He was born and raised in Montepulciano Stazione, a tiny village near the Umbrian border. He remembers a happy yet tough childhood living on his family smallholding, helping his mother with the cooking and his father on the land. They had little money and grew most of what they ate. Giancarlo’s mother, Marietta, was sadly very ill when I met her. I would have relished learning from her first-hand and often imagine I hear her whispering advice in my ear. I’m fascinated by the way she, and her mother before her, used to cook. Both cooked over an open fire using a grill positioned over the embers and had a tripod for a cauldron (which we still…

Alternative Brewing alternativebrewing.com.au Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au Brett Stone utopiaartsydney.com.au Città cittadesign.com Cherie Peyton cheriepeytonceramicart.com Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au David Jones 1800 354 663, davidjones.com.au The DEA Store (02) 9698 8150, thedeastore.com The Design Hunter(02)93693322,thedesignhunter.com.au Di Lorenzo(02)96988737,dilorenzo.com.auEarp Bros earp.com.auElph Storeelphstore.comThe Essential Ingredienttheessentialingredient.com.auThe Fortynine Studiothefortynine.com.auFrancalia(02)99484977, francalia.com.auFunkis(02)93583093,funkis.comGhost Waresghostwares.com.auGinkgo Leafginkgoleaf.com.au Hermès(02)92873200,australia.hermes.comIn Bed Store inbedstore.comKoskela(02)92800999,koskela.com.au Matches Fashionmatchesfashion.comMH Ceramics mhceramics.netMontmartre Store(02)99695456 Mud Australia(02)95698181,mudaustralia.com Net-a-Porternet-a-porter.comPeter’s of Kensington (02)96621099,petersofkensington.com.auTeranova (02)93860063,teranova.com.auTuchuzy(02)93657775, tuchuzy.comWitchery1800640249,witchery.com.au FARE EXCHANGE (p178) Fico151MacquarieSt,Hobart,(03)62453391,ficofico.net This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Bauer publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at bauer-media.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a…

Casa a Noto, south-east Sicily Gather 15 pals for aperitivi on the terrace with views of vineyards and the nearby town of Noto, renowned for its World Heritage-listed Sicilian Baroque architecture. An hour’s drive south of Catania airport and half an hour from the city of Siracusa, the villa is surrounded by groves of olives, citrus, figs and almonds on a wine estate. Too relaxed to fuss in the kitchen? There’s a cook on hand. The closest beach is five minutes’ drive, though guests might find it hard to stray beyond the swimming pool in the garden, and more aperitivi on that terrace. bellinitravel.com Villa Il Galero, Asolo, Veneto Though only an hour’s drive from Venice Airport, the hill town of Asolo is charmingly unspoilt. The 17th-century Villa Il Galero…

Just back from… Los Angeles and Hong Kong, visiting galleries and restaurants. Next up… Two weeks in Tokyo and the art island of Naoshima in the Seto Inland Sea. I was brought up in Kunming in southern China, which is also known as Spring City because of its weather. It’s such a pretty place to live. Lots of film directors, writers and dancers live there. It’s not a major city like Shanghai or Beijing, but it has poetic elegance. When I arrived in Melbourne in 2007 to study filmmaking at Swinburne I was struck by how creative and grungy the city is. It’s a very intimate city, with close connections between the worlds of design, architecture and hospitality. The most significant trip I ever took was to Berlin six years…

“Many people both in Italy and beyond assume that ordering a Spritz means you’ll get an Aperol-flavoured sparkling drink.” I drank my first Spritz in a piazza in Venice one golden afternoon in the early 2000s. It was a revelation. This sparkling, incandescent drink seemed the perfect thing for that lazy, liminal hour between work and play. It tasted fantastic with the selection of salty, savoury snacks on the table in front of me. It felt like people had been drinking this glorious concoction in piazzas in Venice for centuries. It felt timelessly Italian. Turns out that the version of the Spritz I was drinking – a blend of sparkling prosecco, bittersweet liqueur and fizzy water, served over ice in a wine glass with a slice of orange and a…

Here’s a thing: just about every restaurant in Australia does vitello tonnato wrong. Simply slices of veal topped with a tuna mayonnaise? Do not pass Go, do not collect 200 lire. Tonnato doesn’t mean “tuna” – that’s “tonno” – it means tuna-like. It’s a reference to the preserved-tuna texture the poached veal is supposed to have once it’s spent a day or two luxuriating in the sauce. It’s not pretty, which is probably why most chefs think they’re doing you a favour by reinventing it, but in doing so they’re robbing you of the pleasures of its true feel and flavour. But I’ve just found someone who gets it right. Who says “contemporary mores be damned” and serves the veal in all its gloopy, faintly fishy splendour, layered with slivers…

Two forthcoming Carlton ventures are quickening pulses: the reopening later this year of the refurbished and expanded King & Godfree deli and wine store, and a new Sicilian 100-seater called Mr Pietro by Kaprica’s Pietro Barbagallo. BAKER Baker D Chirico Undulating joinery makes this one of the ’hood’s most beautiful shops, but there’s beauty, too, in Daniel Chirico’s range of sourdough bread (from wholemeal to fruit loaf), custard-filled bomboloni and queue-attracting seasonal fare such as panettone. 178 Faraday St, Carlton, Vic, (03) 9349 3445, bakerdchirico.com.au BUTCHER Donati’s Fine Meats The strains of Italian opera, owner Leo Donati’s bracingly frank manner and some of the finest rabbit, veal, pork and pork products in Melbourne make this butcher shop, here since the 1960s, a Carlton landmark. 402 Lygon St, Carlton, Vic, (03)…

It should be no surprise that Gourmet Traveller knows a thing or two about how to throw a good party. And true to form, it was a night to remember when Australia’s food heroes and hot talents gathered in Sydney in August for the annual Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards and the launch of the GT 2018 Australian Restaurant Guide. The gala dinner was held at Chin Chin in Surry Hills, the new restaurant from Melbourne restaurateur Chris Lucas. The Sydney outpost of Melbourne’s favourite South East Asian hotspot has been a long time coming, and the Oscars of the Australian food world were the perfect excuse to throw open the doors early. Guests including Andrew McConnell, Dan Hunter and Kate Reid flew in for the awards, enjoying cocktails, laughs and…

Out on a limb in the extreme north-east corner of Italy, far closer to Vienna than to Rome, Trieste was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire for centuries. And you can tell. On arrival, during a brief reconnaissance drive around the centre, I see the Habsburg presence everywhere. Piazza by piazza, what seems like the entire dynasty appears in a succession of solemn statues – from Leopold I, Holy Roman Emperor from 1604-1705, to Empress Elizabeth, “Sisi”, the consort of Emperor Franz Joseph, who came to a sticky end when she was stabbed to death by an Italian anarchist in Geneva. No wonder the city was once nicknamed “Vienna by the Sea”. Down on the promenade, from the Canal Grande where small boats rest at their moorings to the Savoia Excelsior…

Puglia is one of Italy’s most appealing and unspoiled regions, where life passes by at an unhurried pace. It has extraordinary Baroque and Renaissance architecture plus the World Heritage-listed conically roofed white stone huts called trulli. Accommodation is often found in masserias – restored farmhouses – while the region’s sunny climate produces fine-flavoured ingredients showcased in highly regarded rustic cuisine. Some call it the new Tuscany, minus the crowds. Between walks of five to eight kilometres, guests in the intimate group of no more than 14 will visit Puglia’s architectural hotspots such as the 15th-century town of Alberobello, learn secrets of the local cuisine with an Apulian mamma in Lecce, and visit Matera, famous for its ancient cave dwellings and as the setting for Mel Gibson’s The Passion of the…

Pea risotto with buffalo mozzarella and spring herbs SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 20 MINS Use the best herbs you can find – the key to success here is variety and freshness. At Fico, the chefs use a beer vinegar from Emilia-Romagna; we’ve used Champagne vinegar. Pictured p178. 1 kg peas, podded, shells reserved 80 ml (⅓ cup) olive oil 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 100 gm carnaroli rice 150 ml dry white wine 600 ml mozzarella whey (see note), heated 40 gm chilled butter, diced 40 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano (preferably 36 months old), finely grated plus extra to serve ⅓ buffalo mozzarella ball, blended until smooth, plus extra torn to serve (optional) 2 tsp Champagne vinegar, or to taste 1 cup mixed spring herbs, such as…