Gourmet Traveller July 2017

BASTILLE DAY CELEBRATIONS Mushroom and thyme soup with Roquefort croutons (PICTURED; RECIPE P89) Coq au vin (RECIPE P45) Prune clafoutis (RECIPE P178) The French love matching savoury food with sweet wines at the beginning of the meal, and a rich, golden late-harvest pinot gris would be great with the earthiness of the mushrooms and salty kick of the cheese in the soup. Follow with whatever pinot noir you braised the coq in, and a glass of Armagnac with the pud. A LONG WINTER LUNCH Saffron spätzle with Morton Bay bugs (RECIPE P35) Furikake lamb rack with carrot-ginger purée (RECIPE P41) Mandarin and ginger syrup cake (PICTURED; RECIPE P95) The heady aroma of saffron and the sweetness of Moreton Bay bug meat suggest the exotic flavour and creamy texture of a…

Our health and education systems, our gun laws, the relative decorum of our elected officials on Twitter. I transplanted my family from Washington DC to Sydney just four weeks ago for the job of a lifetime, editing Gourmet Traveller. I’d spent two years away from home in America’s capital and felt catapulted back by an incredible new opportunity and a way out of an increasingly volatile place to be. Dining in America is exciting: New York is home to the current best restaurant in the world and Washington DC, just a short hop south, does a fine job of serving its diverse population of political wonks and exuberant tourists, but the day-to-day reality of living, eating, shopping and cooking in the US made me long for home. Our passion for…

JOE WARWICK Eater, drinker, writer, editor and Scotch-egg enthusiast Joe Warwick has been a professionally overfed Londoner for 25 years. In that time he has seen the city’s restaurant scene flourish and grow. “Disappointed tourists stopped making jokes about London’s food a long time ago,” he says. “The only downside, if you can call it that, is that it’s now exhausting trying to keep up with all the new openings.” See his picks of the new places to stay and play in London in our Go List on page 129. MAX ADEY We threw a bagful of ingredients at Max Adey, and so quick were his reflexes not one hit the floor. In his first Fast column (on page 37) he turned them into eight meals to speed up your…

SPIT-ROAST CHAR SIU PORK AND BAKED MILK BUNS Take a seat at the bar overlooking the rôtisserie and yakitori pit, order something from the thoroughly interesting drinks list, and get to grips with the pork buns. The thick slices of spit-roasted meat are served with fluffy milk buns and a trio of condiments: pickles, onion oil and house-made hoisin. The best kind of DIY. Shobosho, 17 Leigh St, Adelaide, SA, (08) 8366 2224, shobosho.com.au SAMANTHA TEAGUE ANAGO NIGIRI Produce of startling quality, eye-watering dexterity – all par for the course at top Tokyo sushi bars. But at Yasuda you get that plus biting and hilarious commentary from chef Naomichi Yasuda. The only thing better than his freshwater eel nigiri is seeing his biceps pop with bodybuilder ease whenever anyone asks…

Cue tears of joy: Sydney is about to be reunited with Moon Park’s fried chicken. After closing their esteemed modern Korean restaurant in September last year, Moon Park co-owners Ned Brooks, Ben Sears and Eun Hee An are getting the gang back together, and this time they’re open for breakfast, too. Paper Bird, slated to open this month, is an all-day east-Asian eatery that will take over the Bourke Street Bakery site in Potts Point. Brooks says the menu will be similar to Moon Park’s, “except the geographic catchment has been widened to include aspects of Japanese and Chinese cuisine, rather than strictly Korean flavours”. Chefs Sears and Hee An are back in the kitchen, and Brooks will resume his role on the floor. Expect around 10 options at breakfast…

SYDNEY TO HOBART Chef Analiese Gregory has left Darlinghurst restaurant Bar Brosé to take over the kitchen at Hobart’s acclaimed Franklin in August. Gregory takes the reins from David Moyle, who is focusing on his Melbourne venture, Longsong. While plans for the new Franklin menu are a work in progress, a much larger kitchen – kitted out with static fridges for ageing fish, a wood-fired oven and a large cool room – will no doubt inspire. Gregory says house charcuterie could be on the cards, along with seafood and dishes to suit the cooler temperatures on the island. Meanwhile, the Brosé team has brought in chef Adam Wolfers (formerly of Yellow) for a two-month takeover. Expect to see more of the impressive Jewish-inspired fare Wolfers turned out at his recent…