Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2016 i Gourmet Traveller

CHRISTMAS EVE BARBECUE Soy-glazed pork-and-pineapple skewers (RECIPE P46) Charred and shucked corn, mint and pecorino (PICTURED; RECIPE P40) Cucumber and choko salad (RECIPE P146) Roast peach and raspberry Melba pops (RECIPE P169) At the risk of sounding like a wowser, I suggest moderately alcoholic drinks for this barbie – it is, after all, the night before the big day. Serve good mid-strength beer (there are some excellent ones around), lively dry Hunter sémillon and grapey, sherbetty moscato. FESTIVE FEAST Mud crab with curry brown butter (RECIPE P153) Peach and ginger roast turkey (PICTURED; RECIPE P160) Trifle (RECIPE P63) Start your feast with something cool and refreshing – stubbies of lager and glasses of crisp riesling or sauvignon blanc. Offer full-bodied white (pinot gris perhaps) and fruity rosé with the peachy…

Taking hams to the next level this Christmas. Ham is not only central to a Christmas lunch, it’s a mainstay in Boxing Day sandwiches and holiday breakfasts. And now top chefs from around the country are getting into the festive-ham spirit. Nathan Sasi of Sydney’s Mercado has created a glaze to go with Haverick Meats’ hams. The hams are black Berkshire, a breed known for its heavy marbling, and Sasi’s glaze is made with smoked maple syrup and sherry vinegar ($17.90 per kilo for the ham; $11.50 for 300ml glaze). “We smoke a lot of meats at the restaurant and we wanted to replicate these flavours in the glaze,” he says. Elsewhere in Sydney, the “party hams” LP’s Quality Meats serves and sells are also Berkshire, and come ready to…

What’s the food at Millbrook all about, Guy? It’s what I’d like to cook for people if they were coming to our house: something that we’ve grown in our backyard. How has access to the Millbrook Estate garden affected the way you cook? I wouldn’t be the person, let alone the cook, I am if it wasn’t for the garden. When you put all that effort into growing something, you want to use all of it. It gives you a greater respect for all food, not just vegetables – whether it’s using the lees and marc from winemaking in the kitchen, or getting whole animals in. What are you looking forward to cooking up this summer? January and February are going to be absolutely heaving: that’s when everything – and…

1 Kingfish ceviche tostada 2 Sumac lamb with broccoli tabbouleh 3 Smoked trout, carrot and beetroot salad 4 Soy-glazed pork-and-pineapple skewers 5 Chana masala with yoghurt and flatbread 6 Pasta and greens 7 Miso chicken and green beans with sesame 8 Dark chocolate cherry trifle 1 Kingfish ceviche tostada This dish makes an excellent snack on a summer’s day. If you don’t feel like frying tortillas, serve the ceviche and avocado separately with corn chips. Serves 6 as a snack 400 gm sashimi-grade kingfish, cut across the grain into 5mm slices ½ white onion, finely chopped ½ jalapeño, finely chopped Juice of ½ orange 1 tbsp olive oil Juice of 2 limes Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying 6-8 small tortillas 1 large avocado, coarsely chopped 40 gm sour cream 2 radishes,…

The root zone of an onion screams hardiness and can also be used to replant the vegetable. When buying bunching onions from the market, don’t ditch the root zones; they’re an opportunity for a second coming. ROOTS MANOEUVRE Simply cut the roots from your bunch of spring onions and plant them in trenches in the sunniest spot in the patch two to three centimetres deep – enough so the roots are completely covered and the bases of the stems are just below the surface. NURTURE NATURE Keep the roots well watered and within a week, or even less, you’ll notice a new shoot protruding from the root zones. A month or so later, with the usual prerequisites of plants thrown in – hydration, sun and moderate nutrition – your onions…

FIAT 500X The experience of shopping is always greatly enhanced by comfort and the removal of stress each step of the way. With the Fiat 500X’s 60/40 split-folding rear seats and a fold-forward front passenger seat, space is the least of your concerns. Let the 6.5 inch touchscreen and satellite navigation* direct you to your market of choice where ParkView® Rear Back-Up camera, Blind Spot monitoring and keyless Enter ’n’ Go features* will enable you to focus on gathering the perfect fresh ingredients for your Italian meal. Find out more at fiat.com.au/fiat500x *Features & optional extras specified available on select models in the 500X range at additional cost.…

Pizza pizzazz The latest venture by David Mackintosh (Lee Ho Fook, Rosa’s Canteen, Pei Modern) reads from the “do one thing well” playbook. SPQR focuses on Naples-style pizze from a wood-fired oven, served both whole and by the slice. It’s first-rate pie with a sourdough base. Toppings are divided into red and white (tomato, not tomato) with the number of ingredients low and quality high. SPQR, 26 Liverpool St, Melbourne, (03) 9671 3326 Host with the most Host’s location, a renovated warehouse in Brunswick, might ring alarm bells for the hipster-phobic. But its non-pretentious attitude and well-cooked, seasonally driven food save it from cliché. Start with rye bread and “blood butter” (spreadable blood sausage), then move on to pickled mussels with smoked yolk, flame-grilled mackerel with finger lime, lamb’s tongues…

Frank van Haandel is excited. And a little freaked out. The remarkable $13 million-plus building that houses Stokehouse Precinct, the reincarnation of his St Kilda foreshore restaurant that was destroyed by fire three years ago, is nearing completion. And he’s acutely aware of the weight of expectation. “To be quite honest it’s bloody scary.” After the fire in January 2014, the interest in the restaurant’s fate was such that it trended on Google for five days. For Melbourne, the reaction was not surprising. After van Haandel and his brother John won the tender on the 110-year-old building in 1989, Stokehouse grew to become one of a tiny handful of the city’s restaurants that could legitimately be called landmarks. Van Haandel says it was a “celebratory space”, loved by people from…

1 Sheridan’s Irish brown-bread crackers Irish cheesemonger Sheridan’s goal is to create the perfect cracker to accompany cheese. We think they’ve hit the mark with these buttery brown-bread crackers, made with stone-ground wholemeal flour and buttermilk. 2 Mason Clarke Preserving Co cumquat & native pepperberry preserve When it comes to a true Christmas spread, you can never have enough condiments. Mason Clarke’s cumquat and native pepperberry preserve pairs perfectly with cooked meats and will add a native Australian touch to your Christmas lunch. 3 Silver Penny Puddings traditional Christmas pudding Silver Penny Puddings is dedicated to making traditional handmade Christmas puddings. Baked at Kilmore in regional Victoria, the puddings are packed with all-natural Australian ingredients, and made the classic way with suet instead of butter, giving them a richer flavour.…

1 SUPER SWEETIE 2016 Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling, Clare Valley, SA $40 This has long been a super-reliable sweet wine, with lots of bright, luscious candied-lime flavour, vintage after vintage, but the 2016 edition seems to have just a little more brightness and lusciousness than usual. mounthorrocks.com 2 KEEP THE FAITH 2014 Bloodwood Chardonnay, Orange, NSW, $35 At a time when the trend is still towards rather austere, minerally chardonnays, it’s good to see some producers sticking to their guns, releasing a chardonnay with generosity, richness and a seductive, moreish quality. bloodwood.biz 3 NAKED CLARET 2011 Maison Blanche, Montagne-Saint-Émilion, France, $92 This adventurous organic Bordeaux estate bottles some of its top wine without preservatives. It’s fascinating to taste the two expressions side by side: both are superb, elegant clarets,…

Advance party Get ahead of the game this Christmas with dishes you can prepare ahead so you’ve got more time to play. All about Eve Kick off your festivities with a casual snack-fuelled Christmas Eve soirée with friends. Bajan soul Momofuku Seiobo chef Paul Carmichael shares the greatest hits from his mother’s Barbadian Christmas table. Off the hook We’ve plucked the finest fruits of the sea for a spanking-fresh festive menu that puts surf before turf. Peachy keen Bring the perfume and luscious texture of peaches to turkey and ham, sweets and salads. Sugar rush From nostalgia-laced doughnuts to icy poles, sugar is the focus of The Australian Women’s Weekly’s cookbook, Sweet.…

LAMB Platter (with lamb) from White Home. Rattan Oliver dining chair from Annandale Interiors. Shallow bowl by Studio Enti. Arya linen blend scarf (over chair) from Atolyia. Blue bistro chair from Parterre (used throughout). Rattan Oliver dining chair and round-back dining chair from Annandale Interiors. All other props stylists own. Stockists p214. PARTY STARTERS Top left, clockwise from far left: Veronica Trevizo, Paul Carmichael, Kylie Javier Ashton, Mitch Orr, Glen Goodwin and Cian Mulholland. RUM PUNCH Head Vintage Soho water jug from Papaya. White Christmas decoration from Papier d’Amour. COCONUT PUNCH Glass tumbler at left by Country Road. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. CREOLE FISH All props stylist’s own. TABLE Trattoria and Aria plates by Papaya. Rose gold cutlery from Luumo Design. Stockists p214. TABLE Blush paper ornaments…

Cherry pies with orange cream-cheese pastry The super-tasty pastry in these pies is delicate to work with. The trick is to ensure you have only the portion of pastry you need to work with out of the fridge at one time, returning the pastry-lined tins to the fridge as each is completed. Serve with scoops of strawberry ripple or vanilla ice-cream. The pastry can be made a day ahead and refrigerated, and the pies can be cooked four hours ahead; gently reheat before serving. Prep plus cook time 1½ hrs Makes 8 1.2 kg pitted cherries (thaw if frozen) 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar, plus extra dusting 35 gm (¼ cup) cornflour 1 tbsp lemon juice Butter, for greasing 1 egg, lightly beaten Orange cream-cheese pastry 320 gm softened…

 It’s there in the golden fields flanking country roads. In the intense, eye-watering blue of the sky, and the hammer blow of midsummer heat. It’s there in the cattle grids and corrals, the rusting machinery propped like antique sculpture outside farmhouses, and the eucalypts, which are everywhere and abundant. Portugal reminds me of home so often that, after a week-long drive from Lisbon along the Algarve coast to the southern Alentejo interior, I’m convinced this is the perfect European road trip for Australians. And not simply because the landscapes can seem so familiar. Alentejo wines are among the continent’s finest, and more estates, or quintas, are offering boutique accommodation and dining for wine-loving travellers. Food-wise the Portuguese are almost as obsessed with provenance and seasonality as we are, and their…

VANCOUVER JASON ALTON Designer I like to start my day with a clear mind so stretching and meditation play a big role in my routine. Then it’s time for coffee, the morning news and a run along the seawall through Coal Harbour. The wall basically starts at the doorstep of my favourite hotel, The Fairmont Pacific Rim, and it’s a great route to take in some of the prettiest views of the city and the clean, crisp morning air. The best coffee comes from Giovane Café. The iced Americanos are my favourite. I get around the city in my new matte-black Lamborghini Huracán. After a day in the studio I reach for a glass of British Columbian pinot noir. My favourite comes from local producer Tyler…

Los Angeles is a city of many faces, from the faded glamour of Downtown that’s been given a new lease on life to the perennial gloss and glitz of Beverly Hills. For LA’s version of urban cool, though, head to Koreatown and stay at The Line Hotel. Opened in 2014 by the Sydell Group, it personifies the district’s mash-up of karaoke kitsch and new-found sophistication. Interiors at the 388-room hotel are urban-industrial in style with raw concrete walls, plywood detailing, low-slung beds and Mexican textiles adding bolts of colour. Floor-to-ceiling windows are a bonus, particularly in rooms with views to the hazy Hollywood Hills scattered with LA’s ubiquitous palm trees. After check-in, check out the leafy pool deck on the second floor. Laid-back by day, at night it becomes the…

1 Hector Saxe embossed leather game set, $2,580, from Mr Porter. 2 Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Butterfly pendant in 18-carat gold and diamonds, $3,950. 3 Louis Vuitton Camera Box, $5,000. 4 Hermès H Déco tea tasting set, $2,480. 5 Czech & Speake manicure set, $602, from Mr Porter. 6 Gucci silk scarf, $475, from Net-a-Porter. 7 Byredo Unnamed eau de parfum, $240 for 100ml, from Mecca. 8 Stella McCartney key ring, $122, from Matches Fashion. 9 Giorgio Armani Private Bag briefcase, $2,250. 10 Fendi Bag Bugs nylon and fur backpack, $2,566, from Matches Fashion. 11 Chloé Drew leather bag, $2,435, from Parlour X. 12 Balenciaga Safety Pin earrings, $365, from Parlour X. 13 Smythson Grosvenor jewellery box, $2,558. 14 Bella Freud Loving candle, $77, from Mecca. 15 Maison Michel fedora,…

MEASURES & EQUIPMENT * All cup and spoon measures are level and based on Australian metric measures. * Eggs have an average weight of 59gm unless otherwise specified. * Fruit and vegetables are washed, peeled and medium-sized unless otherwise specified. * Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. * Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based; cake tins are stainless steel, unless otherwise specified. COOKING TIPS * When seasoning food to taste, we use sea salt and freshly ground pepper unless otherwise specified. * To blanch an ingredient, cook it briefly in boiling water, then drain it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty of iced water (this stops the cooking process), then drain it. * We recommend using free-range eggs, chicken and pork. We…

The line-up for the 2017 Melbourne Food & Wine Festival is out and, as expected, they’re going big for the festival’s 25th anniversary. It’s a doubleheader this year, too: the 10-day festival coincides with the World’s 50 Best Restaurants reveal (4-6 April), which relocates to Melbourne for 2017. As part of the MFWF program, eight chefs whose restaurants have featured on the 50 Best list will host the annual MasterClass series (1-2 April). Dave Verheul (Embla) and Paul Carmichael (Momofuku Seiobo) will team up with friends for Fire 2.0 (2 April), a “fire masterclass”, while Monday Family Dinner (3 April) sees hospitality families including Angie and Dan Hong (Mr Wong), Kate and Cameron Reid (Lune Croissanterie) and Amy and Palisa Chanta (Chat Thai) cooking together. The House of Food and…

If there’s any single ingredient that screams summer (and holidays), it’s the glorious golden mango, with its luscious, juicy flesh and distinctive aroma. There’s nothing quite like eating a chilled mango over the sink, juice running down your arms, especially after a salty swim. Although they start to appear in September, mangoes are in full swing from November to March, with different varieties available at various times throughout the season. Each has its distinct characteristics, from sweet, silky and melt-in-the-mouth to slightly tart and fibrous. The first available are Kensington Pride, followed by the blush-skinned Calypso and super-sized R2E2. Later in the season come Honey Gold, Kent and Palmer, among others. If it’s an eating mango you’re after, look for deeply fragrant fruit with gently yielding flesh and no soft…

Trifles have been making spirits bright for 400 years. According to The Oxford Companion to Food, the first recipe with trifle in the title appeared in 1596, but recipes for trifle as we know it today were first seen in the mid-18th century. Before this, they were more along the lines of a fool. My trifle, like most, has three parts: a sponge base, in this case almond, syllabub in place of custard, and fruit in the form of fresh berry jam. I love the colours of the berries, and the syllabub keeps it nice and light. After a big Christmas lunch, that’s much appreciated. Syllabub, a foamy concoction of cream and wine, appeared about the same time as the first trifles and has featured in trifle recipes since. It’s…

“ Despite its robust reputation, there’s nothing ham likes more than to be treated gently.” A few weeks ago I was travelling around Israel being wined and dined very handsomely and with a generous spirit by the Israeli board of tourism, so I thought I could write a jolly little piece: “Ten Chefs from London Go Mad in Tel Aviv”, but my editor requested a piece on Christmas. Specifically speaking, spiced ham. It seems a shame, though, not to make the most of my recent travels, where I was walking in His very own footsteps (Jesus, not my editor). We wandered around Nazareth where He spent most of His time, and we enjoyed one of our better lunches in the village of Magdala from whence Jesus’ old friend Mary Magdalene…

DESIGNER POWER When it comes to the beloved FIAT 500, FIAT just couldn’t help themselves. So they took one of Italy’s most popular small cars and gave it more of, well, everything. The result is the irresistible 500X. Late last year FIAT launched the new 500X, an all-new entrant for the Italian brand into the small SUV segment. The 500X is a crossover SUV that combines an off-road and city look and lives up to the FIAT name by being cheeky, proud and individual. Still in keeping with the enduring charm and characteristics of the iconic 500, the 500X offers everything you would expect in a quality modern SUV including design, AWD, technology, performance as well as state-of-the-art safety and security features. Importantly, designers and engineers added more space, utility…

The salty smack of Clair de Lune oysters with a half-bottle of oysterman Steve Feletti’s Borrowed Cuttings picpoul and some fine and honeyed Berkelo sourdough and cultured butter. Charry herring contrasted with the freshness of a parsley salad. Chopped albacore, raw, pale and shining with citrus on crisps of bread. Lush rillettes of ocean trout hidden under rounds of radish. The pleasures of seafood at Saint Peter are great and they are many. And you’d hope so. Josh Niland, the restaurant’s chef and owner, has serious form, having worked at Est, staged at The Fat Duck, and headed the kitchen at Café Nice. But it’s the years he spent cooking with Steve Hodges at Fish Face that are most relevant here. Hodges, working with Greg Doyle at Pier in Rose…

“Bourdain’s shows are a gauntlet thrown in the face of the Vaseline-lensed, waterboard-you-with-rosé lifestyle shows that dominated the airwaves before he showed up.” Upon arriving at Anthony Bourdain’s summertime compound – a rented mansion in one of the Hamptons, east of New York City, with a big yard and a pool and hedgerows tall enough to keep neighbours and society in general at bay – I find him in the kitchen. Shirtless, tanned, lithe, and surprisingly tall and fast on his feet no matter how many times you meet him, he’s dishing out chicken-salad sandwiches. Anybody in earshot – a wild constellation of family, friends, employees, television producers, plus a coterie of his wife’s jiujitsu sparring partners – accepts. He takes slices of soft supermarket wheat bread, piles on the…

Wine pairing: discuss. Our menu is influenced by Japan, Korea, China and Hong Kong, giving us lots of freedom. We look at sake and whiskies, too. Which sakes? We focus on junmai sake. Made without brewer’s alcohol, it’s just rice, water, yeast and koji. It has lovely purity and intensity. Match of the moment? A classic: lobster roll with Champagne. Winemakers to watch? Jo Marsh at Billy Button wines, the guys at Unico Zelo and Rhen Dodd at Ephemera. Favourite watering holes? The Everleigh, Bar Liberty and Marion. Summer go-to? A G&T. So many exciting Australian gins emerging; it’s fascinating how people are exploring native botanicals. Supernormal, 180 Flinders La, Melbourne, Vic, supernormal.net.au…

Indian-spiced marinated turkey with two chutneys The marinade and chutneys all benefit from being prepared ahead, giving the spicy flavours time to get to know each other. Both chutneys can be made up to a week ahead; the mango one is inspired by a Dan Lepard recipe. Start a day ahead to marinate the turkey, then all you need to do on the day is pop it in the oven. And if you really want to get ahead, cook it the day before and serve it at room temperature. Prep time 1¾ hrs, cook 2 hrs 35 mins (plus marinating, resting) Serves 8-10 8 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 30 gm ginger, finely grated 1½ tbsp tomato purée ½ tbsp grated turmeric 2 long red chillies, seeds removed (optional), coarsely chopped…

SALAD & CRAB Rondo copper tray (with crab) and Talo dip bowl (with lemon water) both from Città. Drift porcelain diamond-shaped decoration from Papaya. Salad plate (far right) from Mud Australia. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. SGROPPINO & CROSTINI Diamond-shaped paper lantern from Papier d’Amour, painted in British Paints “Exquisite Peach”. Coupes from William-Sonoma. Tray from West Elm. Salad plate from Mud Australia. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. KINGFISH Forks and Talo pasta bowl from Città. Noodle bowl (with lime) from Mud Australia. Tolix Tabouret stool from Thonet. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. TEXT PAGE Cinnamon round glass bauble (with copper lines) from Papaya. TROUT & ZUCCHINI Song platter from Papaya. Reserve stemless wine glass from William-Sonoma. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214.…

New York now New York is overflowing with so many great new places to eat – where to start? Pat Nourse checks out the greatest of the latest. Love a sunburnt country From beautiful beaches to fortress towns, a trip along the Algarve coast to Portugal’s Alentejo reveals hidden gems. Heart of gold More than a luxury resort, Reserva do Ibitipoca in Brazil’s gold-rush country is helping to reverse centuries of environmental decay. Many happy returns Long-haul flights from Australia have rarely been so cheap and the good news is prices are set to fall even further.…

For two centuries after the Portuguese went F halves on South America in 1494, they searched the land in vain for the glittering Inca riches plundered by their Spanish neighbours. Finally, at the end of the 17th century, a group of bandeirantes – ruthless adventurers and fortune hunters – pushed deep into the southeastern hinterland of Brazil and there, in the muddy banks of rivers and streams, they found alluvial deposits rich in gold. Soon half the nation’s population, along with hundreds of thousands of African slaves torn from the Congo, had amassed in the remote hills of Minas Gerais. Next came Portuguese fortune hunters, quickly followed by the bureaucrats sent to tax them. The European settlers prospered, building Baroque towns such as Ouro Preto to celebrate and fortify colonial…

CHINESE WHISPERS Qantas launches daily flights between Sydney and Beijing from 25 January, codesharing with partner China Eastern. It’s part of Qantas’s push into China; it currently makes daily return flights to Shanghai and 28 return flights a week to Hong Kong. Meanwhile, Virgin Australia has announced daily flights to Beijing and Hong Kong from June. qantas.com FLYING KITS Destination-inspired amenity kits have been introduced in Etihad’s business-class cabins. They feature skincare products by London’s Scaramouche + Fandango and Luxe city guides for Melbourne, New York, São Paulo, Rome, Bangkok and Abu Dhabi. etihad.com JUMBO EXPANSION The A380 rollout continues across Emirates’ global network. It has supersized its flights to Christchurch and Auckland – with five daily flights to New Zealand. And it recently added A380s from Dubai to Doha,…

Everyday Cashmere The perfect plane companion, these 100 per cent cashmere Jet Set scarves are pure luxury. At two metres long and 75 centimetres wide, they are the ideal size to use as a shrug or a travel blanket. everydaycashmere.com Raymond Weil Feminine and elegant, Raymond Weil’s Shine collection features a unique patented system of interchangeable bracelets for women who want a watch for all occasions. Priced $5,400. (02) 9363 1088, raymond-weil.com Woolworths This indulgent Gold Belgian White Chocolate and Vanilla Layered mud cake with gold-dusted baubles will be the talk of your table. Make sure it’s a centrepiece of your festive celebrations. Priced $15 at Woolworths. Green’s Planning a party this festive season? Whatever the occasion and your style of entertaining, Waterthins Bagelette bagel-style toasts are the perfect partner…

JASON DUNDAS Television presenter Where do you travel regularly for work? “I live in Los Angeles where I work in the entertainment industry. I also work for David Jones as its menswear ambassador and I host The X Factor on Channel 7, so I’m constantly travelling between LA and Sydney.” Suitcase of choice? “I use Tumi hard-shell suitcases, which allow me to fold suits and clothes with a minimum of creasing. I use a couple of different garment bags inside my suitcase to keep my wardrobe segregated.” Pre-flight routine? “The day before I travel I try to switch my body to the time zone of the country I’m heading to, to minimise jet lag. I try to sleep as much as possible on long-haul flights so I often do a…

Annandale Interiors annandaleinteriors.com.au Atolyia atolyia.com Aura by Tracie Ellis 1300 304 269, aurahome.com.au Bargeek bargeek.com.au Batch Ceramics batchceramics.com.au Beautiful Spaces beautiful-spaces.com.au Becker Minty (02) 8356 9999, beckerminty.com Bison Australia (02) 6257 7255, bisonhome.com Byredo Parfums mecca.com.au Chanel 1300 242 635, chanel.com Città cittadesign.com Clay & Flax (02) 9460 7511, clayandflax.com.au Claypool claypool.com.au Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au The Country Trader (02) 9698 4661, thecountrytrader.com.au Cultiver cultiver.com David Jones 1800 354 663, davidjones.com.au Dear September dearseptember.com.au Dedece (02) 9360 2722, dedece.com The Design Hunter (02) 9369 3322, thedesignhunter.com.au Design Twins designtwins.com Dinosaur Designs (02) 9698 3500, dinosaurdesigns.com.au Earth & Baker ceramichomewares.com.au The Fleurist thefleurist.com.au The Fortynine Studio thefortynine.com.au Francalia (02) 9948 4977, francalia.com.au Freedom 1300 135 588, freedom.com.au Giorgio Armani (02) 8233 5888, armani.com.au Gourmet Traveller homewares (03) 9490 0600…

CON POULOS “You’d think after living in New York City for nine years, I’d know every place in town,” says Australian-born photographer Con Poulos, who shot our feature on the city’s hottest new eateries on page 174. “But the place is constantly evolving, and a local assignment like this makes me appreciate just how amazing and dynamic it is.” His favourite restaurant at the moment? “In fact, it was difficult leaving quite a few places I shot – especially Cosme, my favourite Mexican spot in New York.” CATHERINE ADAMS Catherine Adams, our pâtisserie expert, is the pastry chef and baker at Wellington Sourdough. Before moving back to New Zealand, she spent many years making some of Australia’s best-loved desserts as the pastry chef for the Rockpool Group. In this month’s…

A Canadian with a flair for fish keeps Melburnians supplied with the best in cold-smoked seafood. WHO Tom Cooper has been at the forefront of curing seafood for the Melbourne restaurant scene for more than 30 years, supplying the likes of Guy Grossi, Frank Camorra and Andrew McConnell with his smoked and cured salmon and ocean trout, as well as other smoked sundries. “I gave Frank Camorra his first smoked tomato around 13 years ago before he opened MoVida,” says Cooper. The smoked tomato sorbet with anchovy and capers is now his signature dish. HOW Cooper takes the best local fish he can get his hands on, carefully pin-bones the fillets, then cures them in various mixtures of salt, sugar, pepper and soft herbs for around 24 hours, depending on…

A zesty riff on an après-ski pick-me-up. The team at Big Poppa’s, the Sydney bar dedicated to late-night Italian eats, cheese and hip-hop, likes turning things on their heads. For their latest trick they’ve taken a mandarin liqueur usually served warm on the Italian ski slopes and turned it into a summery apéritif. “It’s super-light and punchy,” says Irish-born bar manager Bobby Carey. “I associate Christmas with cold climates, so I like the juxtaposition of using the liqueur in the summertime in Australia.” For a garnish, Carey suggests “an obnoxious swatch of orange peel to delight the senses and dry out your nose”. Buon Natale. Big Poppa’s, 96 Oxford St, Darlinghurst, NSW, bigpoppa.com.au SAMANTHA TEAGUE > Pour 25ml gin, 25ml Dubonnet and 10ml Varnelli Punch alla Fiamma…

BAR LIBERTY Chicken skin “GLT” BEACH BYRON BAY Charred and shucked corn, mint and pecorino JIMMY WAH’S Grilled squid with watercress, green chilli mayo and fried garlic FOLONOMO Cacao nib rocks “Would you please publish Jimmy Wah’s squid recipe?” Wesley Johnson, Broadbeach, Qld Grilled squid with watercress, green chilli mayo and fried garlic Prep time 40 mins, cook 20 mins (plus cooling) Serves 4 (pictured p38) 8 small squid (about 800gm; see note), cleaned and tentacles reserved 3 tsp grapeseed oil 2 tbsp tapioca starch (see note) 1 cup (loosely packed) watercress 1 long green chilli, seeds removed,thinly sliced Lime cheeks, to serve (optional) Green chilli mayo 1 egg 1 tbsp rice vinegar ½ long green chilli, very finely chopped ¼ tsp mustard powderPinch of dashi powder (see note)Pinch of…

There’s something to be said for a stage name to build hype and help sell an act. How many records, for example, would Ice-T have sold under his given name, Tracy Marrow? Would “Ice Ice Baby” have been such a hit if it was by an artist named Robert Van Winkle? But a name will only get you so far; it needs to be backed up by substance. The same rings true in the vegetable world. Consider the red beard onion: killer name backed up by solid qualities. The red beard is a variety of bunching onion that originated in China and Kazakhstan from wild members of the allium family, arriving in Europe in the Middle Ages and in England in the 17th century. It’s a hardy, fast-growing onion that…

Pascale Bar & Grill gets points just for being what it is: a glamorous upscale hotel restaurant and bar with aspirations of being a legitimate player on the city’s dining scene. Melbourne’s high-end hotel dining rooms mostly play it safe with risk-free menus, steep prices and a deathless addiction to buffets ensuring that the demographic skews distinctly to in-house guest. Not so at QT Melbourne’s flagship diner, where the hotel group’s signature decorative razzle-dazzle combines with well-sourced local produce, contemporary technique and an accessible (if at times bonkers) food style to make it as much a draw for those without a room key as those spending the night. The bonkers end of Pascale’s spectrum arrives in a variety of forms but a dessert called Rustic Chocolate Stove best represents the…

Murphy’s law You’ve got to hand it to Folonomo – the Surry Hills not-for-profit eatery has done a great job of landing kitchen talent. Claude’s chef Chui Lee Luk was the first resident (check out her cacao nib rocks on page 42) and now Josh Murphy, former head chef of Cumulus Inc and Builders Arms, takes the reins, looking after the restaurant and Gratia, its café offshoot, till early next year. Get into it while you can. Folonomo, 370 Bourke St, Surry Hills, (02) 8034 3818 Right, said Fred It’s been more than two years in the making, but Fred’s, the Merivale group’s take on Chez Panisse-style dining, has now opened on Oxford Street, and it’s more than worth the wait. Talented young American chef Danielle Alvarez pays tribute to…

With a malt-biscuit base and the rich goodness of cream cheese and corn, this play on traditional cheesecake makes a winning dessert. The Wholesome Food Company has done the work for you, producing thoroughly natural snacks with traditional quality ingredients like you’d make yourself – tasty and additive-free. They’re so much more than a quick toothsome bite, too. With the range of authentic chips and popcorn, you’ve got a flavoursome set of ingredients at your fingertips to bring your recipe repertoire to life, whether it’s a crunchy coating for pan-fried chicken or these rich and delicious cheesecake pots. Tahini caramel cheesecake popcorn pots You’ll need eight jars of about 350ml capacity each. Makes 8 150 gm Malt ‘O’ Milk biscuits 50 gm The Wholesome Food Company pretzels, plus extra to…

“People respond to the ability to have a real experience here, get their hands dirty, and still be able to get the tram home.” Alex has settled on an old paint factory. Nick has taken over an abandoned ice works. And Cam’s venue is a former bakery on a busy main road, right on the tram line. Say hello to Australia’s new urban wineries where the traditionally rural activity of crushing grapes and fermenting wine has been transposed to various city settings across the country. As the 2017 harvest looms, these new places offer town dwellers a glimpse of vintage without the inconvenience of schlepping all the way out to a wine region. Winemaker Alex Retief opened the ambitious Urban Winery Sydney to the public in May in a rejuvenated…

I should be there, down there with you. I should be writing this on my annual sojourn to Australia, down to file your Christmas copy, sitting on a veranda smelling eucalyptus, listening to parrots and feeling that light, cocky, amused, insouciant naughtiness which is Australia’s natural aftershave. By rights I should be checking my wardrobe, thinking about getting a lift to Vanya Cullen’s winery for a singular long alfresco lunch among the grapes and the bees. Or perhaps it’s early and I can go to the beach caff, which always has an enormous number of brown legs in it, and then walk the dunes with Jock Zonfrillo. He’ll tug at succulent twigs, mentioning that they are a bit like Vegemite with a hint of urine, and were used by Indigenous…

In recent years, innovation has become a catchphrase in almost every industry, and the restaurant and coffee businesses are no exception. Food is a hot topic in more ways than one. We race to the latest restaurant openings, we marvel over Instagrammed dishes and we tune in to watch every incarnation of cooking show. And more and more we think about where food is going in the 21st century – both in terms of ethical production and dining trends. In recent years, innovation has become a catchphrase in almost every industry and the restaurant business is no exception. It’s the creative and innovative chefs and restaurateurs in our outstanding dining scene today who will take us to that future, and we’re asking them what’s next. Just as pioneering chefs in…

While it sounds a bit recherché, a dash of yuzushu, a blend of sake and fresh yuzu juice, gives a Spritz a twist that’s hard to pin down. Aperol Spritz Franciacorta, a drier, more Champagne-like sparkling wine from Lombardy, makes a refreshing alternative to prosecco. And while it sounds a bit recherché, a dash of yuzushu, a blend of sake and fresh yuzu juice, gives a Spritz a twist that's hard to pin down. (Kudos to Sydney wine bar 10 William St for the inspiration.) Makes 1 (pictured p134) 40 ml Aperol 60 ml Franciacorta or prosecco Soda water Splash of yuzushu (optional; see note) Lemon slices and green olives, to serve 1 Pour Aperol into a large wine glass or tumbler half-filled with ice. Top with Franciacorta or prosecco,…

TART White jug from The Design Hunter. Bottom plate in stack from White Home. TURKEY Bowl from Luumo Design. Highball glass from Country Road. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. SLUSHIE Napkin from Hale Mercantile Co. Tissue balls from Poppies for Grace. Spoons from The Country Trader. HAM Wonki Ware bowl from White Home. Tumbler (bottom right) from Spence & Lyda. Napkin from Hale Mercantile Co. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. SALAD Wonki Ware plate (left) from White Home. Tissue ball (far left) by Poppies for Grace. Napkins from Hale Mercantile Co. Smoke glass bottle (top) from Hay. Small bowl from The Lost and Found Department. Low tumbler (bottom right) from Spence & Lyda. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p214. TRIFLE All props stylist’s own. ICE-CREAM…

Yellow cabs: check. Water towers: check. Sirens: check. Fire hydrants: check. Steam coming out of holes in the ground: check. Rats on the subway tracks: check, check, and check. More than any other city, New York delivers on its reputation. No matter how much New Yorkness you soak up in the virtual world, the real thing still manages to overdeliver. It’s big, it’s dense, it’s loud, it’s exciting and, apart from money and power, two of the things it does best are culture and food. Finding good – or at least interesting – art in New York isn’t all that challenging, so not much help is needed there. But the number of players in the food scene is large enough to warrant a bit of research, even if you only…

Le Creuset The new Le Creuset Professional Hard Anodised range will equip you with all the tools you need to cook like a professional. It’s the perfect initiation into the cooking techniques of the world’s best chefs. From $180. lecreuset.com.au SMEG Winner of two major international design awards, and combining both style and function, Smeg’s ’50s-style stand mixer has elegantly simple features that make baking a pleasure.smeg50style.com.au Hardy Bros Hardys HRB wines are premium cross-regional blends that push boundaries while retaining the finest character of each terroir. These pioneering wines are as interesting as they are unique. Priced $30. hardyswines.com The Essential Ingredient This Christmas, create a custom gift box filled with tasteful treasures for the gastronome in your life, or choose one from Essential Ingredient’s specially curated collections.essentialingredient.com.au American…

SOUTH EAST AURA Scenic has launched its second river cruise ship in South East Asia, Scenic Aura, on a 10-day voyage on Myanmar’s Irrawaddy River. It’s the 16th river ship in its fleet, which covers Europe, Russia and South East Asia. The Aura has 22 suites, all with living room, separate bedroom and balcony, plus an open-air cinema and pool. scenic.com.au BEST AT SEA Sydney chef Mark Best opened his first restaurant at sea on Genting Dream last month, the first ship launched by the Asia-based line Dream Cruises. His 219-seat restaurant, named Bistro, features dishes inspired by Best’s travels across Asia, using Australian produce and an emphasis on wine pairings. The restaurant has an alfresco seating area and a chef’s table. dreamcruiseline.com CRUISING CURTIS The Curtis Stone roll-out continues…

Who doesn’t love the prospect of snowflakes, gingerbread and glühwein? This is the moment to surrender to Christmas kitsch at markets in Germany and Austria; we fancy the neighbourhood vibe of the markets in Vienna’s boho Spittelberg. Meanwhile, Chanel’s annual Métiers d’Art collection opens on 6 December at the Ritz Paris, once the home of Coco Chanel. And bringing a little Paris to Canberra is Versailles: Treasures from the Palace at the National Gallery of Australia (9 December to 17 April). Marie-Antoinette’s harp and a tapestry woven for Louis XIV are among priceless artefacts leaving France for the first time. Ready picnic hampers and rugs as Moonlight Cinema returns to select city parks nationally from early December. Expect a top line-up of films and refreshments from licensed food trucks. In…

FOOD Burgers and beyond Pop the tops on some coldies and savour the sizzle of the best burgers in town: your own. Gone troppo Watermelon, pomelo, mango, oh my: give your table a lift with the ripe bounty of tropical fruit. The Stokehouse returns Celebrate the revival of an Australian landmark beach restaurant with these exclusive recipes. Curtis Stone’s strawberry secrets No-churn strawberry ice-cream? Strawberry and almond cheesecake? Curtis has all the answers. Masterclass: kebabs Just meat on a stick? With a few pointers from Turkish chef Somer Sivrioglu, the humble kebab becomes so much more. TRAVEL Bali’s new wave More beach clubs, more cocktails, more fusion cuisine. We survey Bali’s new hotspots – where to eat, drink, play and stay. Blue lagoons There’s chilled French wine and poisson cru…

Raspberry-chocolate bombe Alaska A bombe is a spectacular centrepiece, and can mostly be made ahead. For extra theatre, consider (carefully) flambéeing it with some warmed kirsch at the table instead of blowtorching it. Start this recipe at least two days ahead to set the bombe. Prep time 40 mins, cook 35 mins (plus chilling, freezing) Serves 8 220 gm caster sugar 4 eggwhites Pinch of cream of tartar Raspberry sorbet 1 kg raspberries 220 gm caster sugar Chocolate ice-cream 200 gm dark chocolate (66% cocoa solids), coarsely chopped 500 ml (2 cups) milk 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream 5 egg yolks 55 gm (¼ cup) caster sugar Butter cake 90 gm unsalted butter, coarsely chopped and softened 90 gm caster sugar 2 eggs, at room temperature 90 gm self-raising…