Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2016 i Gourmet Traveller

MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH Goat’s cheese and herb quiche (RECIPE P47) Roast chicken salad with celeriac, radicchio and pink grapefruit (PICTURED; RECIPE P94) Hazelnut cakes with roast rhubarb (RECIPE P178) Mother’s Day is all about making your mum happy, and for all we know, she might be mad for big Barossa shiraz, in which case that’s what you need to serve with brunch. If it was up to us, though, we’d probably open a bottle of crisp, dry vermentino, a pale, dry rosé and then a cheeky half-bottle of pink moscato. COMFORT COOKING Broccoli soup (PICTURED; RECIPE P38) Slow-roasted pork neck, green olive sauce, parsley and walnuts (RECIPE P87) Green lentils with salami and cavolo nero (RECIPE P98) Olive oil cake with pumpkin-seed ice-cream and candied orange (RECIPE P35) If the…

WOOD-GRILLED CALAMARI WITH RADISH, SEAWEED David Moyle continues to kick goals with a menu that gives Tasmanian produce the love and respect it deserves. Local calamari is wood-grilled, cut into thin ribbons and then mixed with radishes, a dusting of dried and crushed seaweed and an enormously satisfying roasted calamari sauce. We call it perfection. Franklin, 30 Argyle St, Hobart, Tas, (03) 6234 3375 MICHAEL HARDEN CELERIAC, MUSTARD, BEER, HORSERADISH A thick disc of celeriac is poached in buttermilk, roasted and then smeared with mustard butter, topped with crunchy droplets of beer batter and finished with a good grating of horseradish: a super-savoury flavour bomb. Boom. Fleet, shop 2/16 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads, NSW, (02) 6685 1363 ANTHEA LOUCAS FERMENTED GRAINS & SPANNER CRAB Ah the F word. It seduces…

Mick “Maka” Kerkham didn’t learn to sew until he was 39. Now, at 51, the self-taught designer can’t get enough of it: he spends his days in his back-garden shed in Sorell, 30 kilometres north-east of Hobart, sewing classic leather knife rolls and sheaths as well as toolbelts for some of the country’s best chefs and makers. What do people want in a knife roll, Mick? Sometimes they want something to match their knives (black and silver, say) and sometimes it’s to match their personality. A lot of the chefs are going for that retro or vintage look at the moment. I don’t skimp on expense; I use quality brass buckles, which age softly with the leather. I have a laser engraver, too, so can put people’s names on the…

NEW GROUND Discover African spice with Duncan Welgemoed (4 May, Adelaide), eat Mexican with Neil Perry (17 May, Sydney) and beef it up with Black Bird chef Jake Nicolson (25 May, Brisbane) as part of May’s Gourmet Institute program. Tickets are $60, hn.com.au/ gourmet-institute HOLY CANNOLI The Italian Wine & Food Festival hits Melbourne for the first time on 29 May. Take your pick from over 250 wines, savour artisanal charcuterie and handmade pasta, or visit the Bar Americano pop-up and Gourmet Traveller’s Food Market. Tickets from $35. italianwinefoodfestival.com.au TWO TASTES International chefs Anthony Myint and Chris Kiyuna (The Perennial, Mission Chinese Food) will host a lunch in Adelaide’s picturesque Botanic Gardens Restaurant on 4 May as part of the fierce Tasting Australia line-up. Tickets are $180. tastingaustralia.com.au GET SET, GROW…

1 Robert Gordon medium bowl with handles in Salt Bush, $35, from Living Edge. 2 White Basics Chef du Monde square baker, $15.95, from Maxwell & Williams. 3 Chasseur La Cuisson ramekins in Grey and Duck Egg Blue, $15.95 for a set of two. 4 Flip Flop Slip baking tray, $124, from The Fortynine Studio. 5 Robert Gordon large oval platter with handles in Iron Dip, $45, from Living Edge. 6 Royal Doulton 1815 white serving dish, $49.95. 7 Chasseur La Cuisson X large rectangular baker in Duck Egg Blue, $65.95. 8 Cirrus marbled porcelain baking dish in Black, $65, from Heaven In Earth. 9 S&P Studio bakeware dish, $39.95 for a set of three, from Domayne. 10 Apilco gratin dish, $30, from Williams-Sonoma. 11 Cirrus marbled porcelain baking dish…

ONE FORD STREET Spelt maltagliati with tiger prawns and shellfish sauce BARRIO COLLECTIVE Bacon and cheese toasties PETITION KITCHEN Beef shin with romesco and lemon MARION Olive oil cake with pumpkin-seed ice-cream and candied orange “Would you please ask One Ford Street for the recipe for maltagliati with tiger prawns?” David Parker, Rozelle, NSW Spelt maltagliati with tiger prawns and shellfish sauce Prep time 45 mins, cook 1 hr 15 mins (plus resting) Serves 4-6 (pictured p32) 2 cups firmly packed basil, plus extra to serve 50 ml olive oil 400 gm fresh or frozen broad beans Shellfish stock 2 tbsp olive oil 1 carrot, coarsely chopped 1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped 3 golden shallots, coarsely chopped 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 kg ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 kg…

The scent of savoury custard cradled in buttery pastry as it emerges from the oven is one of the joys of a perfect quiche. The town of Lorraine on France’s north-eastern border with Germany is considered the birthplace of quiche – hence quiche Lorraine – but it seems a forerunner called féouse was known in Nancy as early as the 16th century. The early versions had a yeasted crust, whereas today we use shortcrust or puff pastry. The Alsace-Lorraine region is famous for both savoury and sweet quiches. The savoury varieties are usually made with vegetables, bacon and even rillettes set in custard, while the sweet quiches use local fruits, especially plums. The custard is generally made with eggs and cream, but some versions are part fresh cheese and part…

They’re late-night party animals with opposable thumbs and the neighbours are getting sick of your dog’s midnight howling. Ah yes, we’re talking about possums – stealth assassins in the vegetable patch. To safeguard your garden’s precious assets – and your relationship with your neighbours – the answer is quite simple. EVOLUTION THEORY Humankind has spent a lot of energy trying to invent the definitive possum deterrent, sonar devices (that freak out your dog) and funky sprays among them. Yet we realise now that possums are a lot like us – they’re quick to evolve. That’s right, possums now love chillies, and the chilli sprays that used to sting the critters are now a spicy aphrodisiac. What this tells us is that we need to keep evolving, too, or resort to…

Grossi Florentino Grill’s recent closure for a quick nip and tuck had many in Melbourne’s design and business communities reaching for the smelling salts. Florentino’s retro-cool mid-range offering was designed by architect Robin Boyd in 1959 and has been a power-lunch epicentre ever since. It was given a fairly thorough going-over in the 1980s, but it’s nonetheless the sort of place where change of any kind is viewed with suspicion. So the absence of any howls of outrage since it reopened surely points to business as usual, right? Maybe at first glance. The room looks familiar beyond the immediately obvious changes – the sleeker, darker but structurally intact dining room, absence of linen from the tables, the ’80s light fittings banished to design purgatory. White-aproned waiters, led by owner-chef Guy…

“So it really is a portmanteau of bros and rosé?” asked the chief subeditor? “Yes,” I replied. “I’m afraid it is.” Just about the only thing that’s hard to swallow at Bar Brosé is the name. Unless of course you somehow object to natural wines, loud music, beer in cans or beetroot in your Negroni. It’s a narrow slice of good times perfectly primed to the whims and wants of Darlinghurst circa now, and it’s nothing if not fun. The space, a sort of corridor running between Victoria Street and Darlinghurst Road, seems much, much bigger somehow than when it was The Passage, or even L’otel before it – the arterial plaque of layered renovations scraped away to reveal a series of rooms that are light and not without brightness…

1 EARTH TONES 2015 Hither & Yon Grenache Mataro, McLaren Vale, SA, $24 Like so many 2015 reds out there in bottleshop land, this has heaps of juicy red berry-fruit flavours typical of the warm, early vintage. But there’s also a delicious gutsy earthiness – like sweet black composting leaf litter – that sets it apart. hitherandyon.com.au 2 CRAFT SCENE Pact Beer Co Mount Tennent Pale Ale, Canberra, ACT, $4.75 In a crowded craft-beer scene, a new brand needs to get everything right to be noticed. This one does: high quality – lovely bright citrus and floral hop flavours, bold and bitter but refreshing and moreish – and super-smart packaging. Nice. pactbeer.com.au 3 BETTER LATE 2007 Jansz Late Disgorged, Tasmania, $55 The “standard” vintage Jansz, disgorged after five years, is…

Automata for the people Chef Clayton Wells turns up the party dial on his fine-dining repertoire for an easy-going lunch. Rule the roast A burnished bird hot from the oven is an all-time favourite, whether it’s served with bread sauce or fragrant pilaf. Lentil as anything Earthy and deeply comforting, lentils embrace whatever flavours come their way. It’s a wrap The taste of a tortilla catapulted high-flying chef Alex Stupak from modernist cuisine to haute Mexican. Smart cookies Crammed with oats or sweetly sandwiching dulce de leche, nothing beats a biscuit with your cuppa.…

Green lentils with salami and cavolo nero Prep time 15 mins, cook 30 mins Serves 4 as a side or light meal 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped, plus 2 extra, thinly sliced on a mandolin ½ tsp chilli flakes 300 gm small green lentils 100 ml red wine 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock 1 fresh bay leaf 1 oregano sprig, plus extra leaves to serve ½ bunch cavolo nero, coarsely chopped 1½ tbsp red wine vinegar, or to taste 60 ml ( 1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 2 thin cacciatore salami, thinly sliced 1 Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, chopped garlic and chilli flakes, and sauté until onion is tender (4-5 minutes). Add lentils…

SINGAPORE LOH LIK PENG Entrepreneur, hotelier and restaurateur Though I travel and my routine changes… on Saturdays I always try to ride scooters with my four-year-old son at Gardens by the Bay, a huge park on the Marina Bay waterfront. We’ll stop at my café Pollen for coffee and cake. For weekend lunches… we often go to PS Café or Bincho, one of my restaurants and my son’s favourite, for little don rice bowls. For a business lunch… Odette, at the new National Gallery Singapore is great: a lovely location, lots of natural light, quite formal. Speaking of the National Gallery Singapore… I love it. Opened in November, it spans two of the city’s oldest buildings transformed into galleries, a gift shop and a wonderful kids’…

HIGH STEAKS A new restaurant by chef Thomas Keller (Per Se, The French Laundry) will open on Seabourn Quest this month. Called The Grill, it will roll out on all Seabourn’s ships, including newcomer Seabourn Encore, which débuts in December. The Keller restaurant will be modelled on classic American chophouses with dishes such as lobster thermidor, a Caesar salad prepared at the table, and ice-cream sundaes. seabourn.com CUBA REVISITED Carnival Corporation begins cruising to Cuba this month. Under Carnival’s new Fathom line, focused on “voluntourism”, the 704-passenger MV Adonia starts regular voyages between Miami and Cuba – the first time in more than 50 years a cruise ship has been allowed entry from the US. Seven-day itineraries include three Cuban ports: Havana, Cienfuegos and Santiago de Cuba. fathom.org PERSONALITY TYPES…

1 Dolce & Gabbana crystal-embellished iPhone 6 case, $945, from Net-a-Porter. 2 Azzedine Alaïa Andalouise wool-blend dress, $4,995, from Parlour X. 3 Chanel tweed-effect sandals, $1,550. 4 Burberry Beauty Lip Mist in Nude Peach No 212, $49. 5 Marni silk and cotton blend jacket, $4,035. 6 Prada Infusion d’Iris eau de parfum, $115 for 50ml, from David Jones. 7 Fendi crystal-embellished Baguette, $2,570, from Net-a-Porter. 8 Kailis Ascensus 18-carat white gold and South Sea pearl earrings, $14,800. 9 Gucci cotton scarf, $290. 10 Giorgio Armani ballet flats, $850. 11 Prada large trolley bag in Saffiano leather, $5,990, 12 Giorgio Armani sunglasses, $275. Stockists p175.…

MEASURES & EQUIPMENT * All cup and spoon measures are level and based on Australian metric measures. * Eggs have an average weight of 59gm unless otherwise specified. * Fruit and vegetables are washed, peeled and medium-sized unless otherwise specified. * Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. * Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based; cake tins are stainless steel, unless otherwise specified. COOKING TIPS * When seasoning food to taste, we use sea salt and freshly ground pepper unless otherwise specified. * To blanch an ingredient, cook it briefly in boiling water, then drain it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty of iced water (this stops the cooking process), then drain it. * We recommend using free-range eggs, chicken and pork. We…

Each issue we produce is special in its own way but our Hot 100 edition holds a special place on the editorial schedule for no reason other than it’s just so much damn fun. This issue is no exception. There are new eats to try (savoury éclairs at The Apo, cacio e pepe at Brickfields, and ice-cream treats at Mr Fitz’s Finest Ice Cream), and new hotels to check out (the Paris Ritz, Baz and Catherine’s Faena Hotel Miami Beach and the Whitby in New York). There are ingredients to discover like koji and dulse, trends we’ve clocked such as fine-dining scrambled eggs and fried chicken sandwiches, and new talent like the folks at Foolscap design and Studio Twocan. In short, the issue is jam-packed with excellent things to see…

It’s hard to think of a more timely or compelling calling card for a fledgling coffee business than to be anointed roaster-in-chief at Sydney’s Noma pop-up. Tim Varney, who makes up one half of Bureaux Collective with Tim Williams, established the “coffee program” at Noma’s Copenhagen mothership a couple of years ago, and both Tims have gained a high profile in the coffee-obsessive communities of the UK, Norway and the US over the past decade, particularly in the spheres of roasting and sourcing. Now they’ve returned to Australia and plan to put coffee-roasting resources and skills in the hands of locals at the Bureaux Collective HQ in a small warehouse in Melbourne’s Cremorne. “Coffee-roasting equipment is expensive and not everybody has half-a-million dollars or the time it takes to negotiate…

I want to cook fish offal – where should I start? We’ve all become pretty familiar with the nose-to-tail concept with land animals, but nose-to-scale is also worthy of attention. Using all of the fish we buy makes good culinary and commercial sense, and there’s some great eating to be found in what are often considered the lesser parts. Fish heads, often discarded in this country, are the basis of many popular South East Asian curries and are gladly thrown into stockpots the world over. Bones, too, are extremely flexible in their use. Deep-fried, they give a satisfying crunch to many dishes, while used in stock they release collagen to give a velvety consistency. Scallops, frequently trimmed down to their sweet flesh, contain vast flavour in their cast-off roes and…

In two minds? The cure for apéro indecision at Smalls – a former garage turned drinking den in South Melbourne – is the East India, which combines two satisfying pre-dinner classics, vermouth and sherry, in one fortified fell swoop. “Sherry is slightly oxidative which gives weight and texture to dry vermouth,” says Smalls’ owner-manager Jess Ho. To hit the right balance, Ho recommends Maidenii vermouth for its herbaceous undertones and touch of sweetness. Smalls, 20 Yarra Pl, South Melbourne, Vic, smallsbar.com.au > Stir 45ml dry vermouth, 45ml dry sherry and a dash of bitters over ice until chilled, then strain into an ice-filled tumbler. Twist a zest of lemon over the glass to release its oils, then drop it in as a garnish, and serve. HEAVY METAL  This rustic stainless-steel…

It’s been two years in the planning and has taken six weeks of construction, but The Grill is back and, yes, it’s better than ever. The street-level room of Grossi Florentino has reopened, the fresh polish in the dining room courtesy of Mills Gorman Architects matched by a new blaze of energy in the kitchen. With a wood-fired asado and a Josper oven, it’s now more of a grill in nature as well as name. “Cooking over fire is an ancient technique in Tuscany,” says chef-owner Guy Grossi. “It adds dimension and gives a great smokiness to our dishes. The guests can smell the timber burning, which stimulates the senses as well.” And what better way to kick the tyres for yourself than to join us at this month’s reader…

1 Prawn and bean salad with preserved lemon dressing 2 Spiced eggs with okra 3 Broccoli soup 4 Chicken braised with cavolo nero and wine 5 Mushroom and mascarpone risotto 6 Fideuà with clams 7 Lamb backstrap with roast pumpkin, anchovy, mint and sesame 8 French toast 1 Prawn and bean salad with preserved lemon dressing Serves 4 as a light meal 175 gm green beans, trimmed 600 gm canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 2 tbsp olive oil 12 uncooked prawns, peeled, deveined, heads removed and tails intact 1 tsp coarsely crushed coriander seeds ½ Spanish onion, thinly sliced 1 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ bunch chives, cut into batons Preserved lemon dressing 200 ml extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 2 lemons ½ preserved lemon, flesh discarded, rinsed…

Long live Liberty Fitzroy’s Bar Liberty is the wine bar you get when alumni from Attica and Rockwell and Sons join forces. From its crudely painted sign to flavour-popping dishes – XO pipi with Chinese doughnuts, cured scallops with fermented buttermilk – Liberty covers all the new-school bar bases. The drinks list favours minimal-interventionist wine without being pedantic, and the service is friendly and informed. Bar Liberty, 234 Johnston St, Fitzroy Star turn Melbourne’s branch of Michelin-starred Hong Kong dumpling joint Tim Ho Wan launched later than expected, so the queues are perhaps even longer than anticipated. Chef Yong Qiang Wei sticks to the famed script – barbecue pork buns, prawn dumplings, cheong fun – and mostly nails the above-average dumpling brief. Congee fans should factor in the pork and…

Have a Gavvers Snails in garlic and parsley butter. Steak tartare. Onglet and red-wine shallots. Pork belly and lentils. Chocolate mousse. From the carte to the name to the Art Nouveau logotype, Bistrot Gavroche is all about those sepia-toned good old days. It might be an extension of a Singaporean brand, but its chef, Frederic Colin, sticks to the script, opting to soothe rather than surprise. Bistrot Gavroche, 2-10 Kensington St, Chippendale, (02) 9281 6668 Near Miss Ms Murray? This snappy new CBD café is the latest venture from the team behind John Montagu. (That Woolloomooloo sandwich bar was named for the Earl of Sandwich; Fanny Murray was his mistress.) Montagu’s Maffra cheddar and sage toastie is here, alongside the bacon and egg bun. They’re joined by more breakfasty stuff,…

WINE INSIDER: RAÚL MORENO YAGÜE, ARBORY BAR & EATERY, MELBOURNE Go-to pour? A cool-climate 2013 Bird on a Wire Chardonnay: stone fruit, moreish richness and plenty of tension on the palate. Best pairing? Grilled saltbush lamb cutlets with the electric acidity and herbal tone of 2013 Alvarinho Muros Antigos Vinho Verde. Hardest dish to match? French fries have a moody personality. A day is better with… Grenache – perfume, fruit, spice, guts and voluptuous curves. Winemakers to watch? Alex Byrne and Taras Ochota. Favourite bars? Bellota wine bar in South Melbourne and Bouzy Rouge in Richmond. Hangover cure? Two Panadols, a pint of water, half a bottle of Moscato d’Asti and a cigarette. Arbory Bar & Eatery, Flinders Walk, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 8648 7644, arbory.com.au…

CLAYTON WELLS’ LUNCH MENU FOR SIX + KINGFISH WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE, YUZUKOSHO, SHISO AND FINGER LIME + PICKLED EGGS AND ONIONS + FLOUNDER WITH WAKAME AND LEMON BUTTER + ROASTED RED CABBAGE WITH BONITO BUTTER + SLOW›ROASTED PORK NECK, GREEN OLIVE SAUCE, PARSLEY AND WALNUTS + RADICCHIO SALAD WITH BLISTERED GRAPES, SHALLOT AND ZA’ATAR + BLACKENED PEARS, VANILLA MASCARPONE AND CANDIED HAZELNUTS Automata chef Clayton Wells makes entertaining sound easy. “Prepare as much ahead of time as you can, drop everything on the table at once and then join the party,” he says. It all sounds very casual and seems at odds with the chef’s background: before opening Automata, his first solo restaurant, six months ago, Wells was sous-chef at Sydney fine-diner Momofuku Seiobo and he’s also clocked kitchen time…

Let’s get this out of the way right up front. I’m a white boy from suburban Massachusetts where Old El Paso taco nights were mother’s milk. I loved that stuff. In fact, I wouldn’t even consider Mexican food that didn’t come with a spice pack and a sleeve of crisp shells until long after I’d graduated culinary school and settled into a kitchen trajectory that had nothing to do with tacos. In 2005, I was clocking 90 hours a week in the pastry kitchen at Alinea in Chicago. I lived in a lousy walk-up in Lincoln Park with Lauren Resler, the woman who would eventually see fit to marry me, and on our days off she and I would explore the city’s ethnic neighbourhoods. Along 26th Street, you couldn’t walk…

1 GET A GRIP Australian winemakers and drinkers alike are developing a passion for reds with seriously savoury, tongue-hugging tannin. The northern Italian red nebbiolo is the best-known example of this style – outstanding wines include those from Pizzini, Fletcher, Giaconda and Casa Freschi – but other grippy southern Italian grapes are showing extreme promise, too. Look for aglianico from Chalmers in Heathcote and sagrantino from Sassafras in Canberra, Oliver’s Taranga in McLaren Vale and an ambitiously priced, preposterously named $200 sagrantino from d’Arenberg called The Athazagoraphobic Cat. 2 SISTER ACT Sisters Maddie and Becc Sharrock are behind Melbourne’s Studio Twocan. They craft cement pots that meld burnt-orange, peach and yellow pigment in ways reminiscent of the Australian landscape. From this month Jardan will stock Twocan’s vases (originally commissioned to…

ANN SHERRY Executive chair, Carnival Australia Where do you travel for work? “With more of Australia embracing cruise tourism, I’ve been spending more time in regional areas. Domestically, I fly frequently to Melbourne and Brisbane, and internationally to Miami and Europe.” How often are you away? “About 60 to 70 domestic trips a year and about 10 international trips a year.” Suitcase of choice? “Samsonite. I like my bags strong, light and on wheels and always bright red so I can identify them easily on the carousel. I’ve never owned a black suitcase.” Pre-flight routine? “I always load up my iPad with books before I fly. On longer flights, I have a facial at the airport before I board.” Essential cabin items? “My iPad, earplugs, moisturising creams and pressure socks.”…

Beach parties, live music, parades and performances with a tropical backdrop are planned for the 22nd annual Port Douglas Carnivale (20-22 May). Enjoy the three Cs – comedy, cabaret and circus – from 12 May at the festival’s Spiegeltent, while elsewhere the best local produce and regional wine will be served at a long lunch and market stalls. Langley Park in Perth is the site for Taste of Perth (29 April to 1 May), featuring some of the city’s most talented chefs. Swing, scat and pop at more than 18 live performances at the 29th annual Thredbo Jazz Festival (29 April to 1 May). At GABS, the Great Australian Beer Spectacular (20-22 May in Melbourne; 27-28 May in Sydney) try a jam doughnut-flavoured beer or a Mexican chocolate stout, along…

FOOD Peter Gilmore on the farm Go up country with the Quay and Bennelong chef for a feast with friends around the fire. The pie chart Take them sweet, take them savoury, big and small, take them any way you can. Truffles decoded How do you get the most out of truffles in your own kitchen? The Agrarian Kitchen’s Rodney Dunn has the answers, and they’re mighty tasty. Rolled gold Make a meal of cornmeal with fresh ideas taking polenta from breakfast to dinner and back again. Masterclass: sweet and sour pork Asian food expert Tony Tan goes back to basics with this beloved Cantonese classic. TRAVEL Meadows to mountains A nine-day hike from the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana, to Italy’s Friuli region is peppered with wildflowers, daily feasts and special…

1 Charles Tyrwhitt Charles Tyrwhitt is offering 100 per cent cotton shirts for only $39.95, plus free delivery and returns. Claim the offer and browse the classically stylish men’s and women’s collections at ctshirts.com. 2 Pinot Noir NZ 2017 Immerse yourself in New Zealand’s pinot scene over three days along the Wellington city waterfront. This premium wine event educates and connects visitors to what makes pinot noir so special. pinotnz.co.nz 3 Harvey Norman The exquisite brass-studded detail of the upholstered bedhead and foot end of the “Maison” bed is combined with quality Victorian ash timber to complete a stunning design. Priced from $2,199. harveynorman.com.au 4 Miele Hailed as the fastest and most powerful built-in steam oven in the world, the Miele DGD 4635 Built-in Pressure Steam Oven sets a new…

AJ MOLLER Anthony Jay Moller is a commercial photographer from Brisbane. While he shoots most of his work on two 5D Mark IIIs, he says he’ll always have a soft spot for his medium format Yashica-Mat. “It was all I could afford when studying at uni,” he says. “I’ve recently passed it on to my young nephew, who’s enjoying the ‘old-school’ 120 film process.” In this issue, Moller captured our Brisbane Hot 100 items. “Mister Fitz’s was the standout – I’m a sucker for ice-cream.” The Hot 100 begins page 125. VANESSA AUSTIN Sydney stylist Vanessa Austin didn’t think she had much of a sweet tooth until collaborating on the biscuits feature in this issue (page 112). “The choc-hazelnut Afghans took me back to eating Nutella from the jar as…

WHO Mississippi-born chef George Francisco has been busy finessing his bacon recipe since migrating to Australia in 2001. His aim? To recreate the intensely flavoured, southern-style, dry-cured smoked bacon he remembers from childhood. Last year, the expat left his executive chef role at Tower Estate in the Hunter Valley and relocated to sunny Noosa to set up Voodoo Bacon. WHAT Each slab of bacon is handmade. Francisco sources bellies from free-range pigs from Ipswich in Queensland and applies a dry-cure of rock salt, brown sugar, juniper, thyme, garlic and assorted spices. The applewood used for smoking is from the Sunshine Coast. “As you cure, it gets salty, so you need smoke to get the balance right,” says Francisco. “The applewood gives an equal amount of smoke, salt and sugar.” Most…

Last year you made the move from Melbourne to Perth. What’s been the biggest change? The climate. It dictates how we balance the menu and I’m still not sure how the seasons work over here. While I was at Stokehouse we’d do braised meat and pasta in autumn but Perth is still quite warm, so we’ll be keeping the menu light and fresh. What kind of dishes can we expect? Cold entrées – gazpacho, crudos, carpaccios – and grilled fish with minimal garnishes. We’re doing Blue Ridge marron and fennel roasted in the Josper with citrus butter and potato crisps. It’s been really popular. My vision is to use as much as we can from Western Australia, so I’m excited for Manjimup truffle season to kick into gear. I’m thinking…

SYDNEY Expect Da Orazio with a Melbourne Wine Room spin at The Dolphin Hotel in Surry Hills with Maurice Terzini calling the shots. The pub will be split into a new-look public bar, dining room and a wine room with a mod-Italian bent. The menu will be overseen by Icebergs executive chef Monty Koludrovic and is likely to feature classics such as spaghetti vongole, cotoletta and calamari Sant’Andrea. The public bar will be the first of the three spaces to open. LONDON The team behind Highbury favourite Trullo have now opened Padella, a low-key and affordable pasta bar in London’s Borough Market. Starting at about $10 a plate, the menu features eight pasta dishes (including Trullo’s popular tagliarini with slow-cooked tomato sauce, and ricotta ravioli with sage butter) as well…

Anchovies are either loathed or loved – you can’t be lukewarm about an anchovy. At GT, we are firmly in the “for” camp. A couple of tins of anchovies in the pantry take up very little space, but despite their diminutive size, they pack a serious flavour punch. They add deep savouriness to all sorts of dishes and can be employed in a subtle manner or made the star of the show. We often add them when sautéeing onion and garlic as the foundation of a dish – an anchovy or two adds a certain something to proceedings, melting away to invisibility, yet leaving their flavoursome mark. We also love to place them centrestage – spiking a lemony, garlicky mayo to serve alongside fried cauliflower, say, or in a take…

We all have our Achilles heel. For a politician it might be taking a helicopter. For Derek Zoolander it’s turning left. Mine is picking peas before they’ve grown beyond a bite-sized pod because they’re the ultimate vegetable snackage. There are few tastier times in the patch than when peas are in full bloom and those sweet, crunchy snacks litter the foliage. Their bounty aside, peas also provide benefits to the garden by injecting the soil with nitrogen. After those greedy summer vegetables – tomatoes, sweetcorn, zucchini – the soil is depleted of that essential element and in need of replenishment. Planting peas in the spaces that these crops once occupied helps redress the balance because, along with broad beans and other legumes, peas produce nitrogen as they grow. So, by…

“Come hungry and thirsty, and with an open mind, and remember, Italians do it better!” Italians do it better. That’s been the motto, if not the mission statement, of the Italian Wine and Food Festival since its inception. Inaugurated in 2013 in Sydney, the festival this month makes its first appearance in Melbourne, and it’s going to be big. We spoke to the festival’s founder, award-winning sommelier Lara Caraturo, about its highlights. You’re a champion of Italian wine in Australia, Lara; how did that come to be? I married another sommelier who is very passionate about all things Italian. Then I had the pleasure of working for Sardinian-born chef Giovanni Pilu at Pilu at Freshwater restaurant in Sydney for eight years. I created a very Italian-focused wine list for the…

“This unique itinerary promises an unforgettable journey filled with French culinary experiences, from market tours to wine tastings.”– EMMA KNOWLES, FOOD AND STYLE DIRECTOR, GOURMET TRAVELLER The team at Gourmet Traveller is excited to be embarking on its first cruise collaboration – a culinary journey through the south of France with luxury river-cruising specialists APT. The itinerary has been designed for the gourmet traveller, with GT food and style director, Emma Knowles, hosting tours and cooking demonstrations, and designing the menu for the gala dinner. “This will be a standout trip. Bordeaux and the Rhône are two of the most exciting food and wine regions in France,” says Knowles. “It’s going to be a lot of fun.” TOUR HIGHLIGHTS • Enjoy unforgettable French culinary experiences, from market tours to wine…

I’m writing this on the train. I don’t like writing on trains – the view keeps moving. The one piece of advice I can offer to aspiring writers is never, ever have a desk facing a window. When you look up, you should see only your thoughts. A moving window is not writer’s block, but writer’s tourniquet. The panorama wraps itself around your imagination, strangling ideas. (Actually, there’s one other piece of advice – say everything you write out loud. Not muttering to yourself like a Shakespearean actor rehearsing Henry V. Though I don’t recommend that on a train, either.) I particularly like the view from trains. There’s something about them that flatters a landscape. Or perhaps they just don’t scare it. The country just doesn’t look like it’s running…

Turmeric chicken with lemon pickle and almonds When you don’t want to roast a whole chicken, Marylands are a great option; their high fat content makes them great for roasting. Start this recipe two weeks ahead to pickle the lemons. Prep time 20 mins, cook 1¼ hrs (plus pickling) Serves 4 4 chicken Marylands (about 350gm each) 60 ml ( 1/4 cup) grapeseed oil 1 white onion, cut into wedges 4 red birdseye chillies, halved 1 garlic clove, crushed ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp nigella seeds 3 sprigs fresh curry leaves, torn 60 gm natural almonds, coarsely chopped Juice of 1 lime Steamed basmati rice and yoghurt (optional), to serve Lemon pickle 1 lemon 1 tbsp grapeseed oil ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds Pinch of brown mustard seeds Pinch of…

Salted peanut and sesame biscuits These are simple and super-easy to have on hand. For a quick dessert, they also make a very tasty ice-cream sandwich – try coconut or vanilla ice-cream. Prep time 20 mins, cook 15 mins (plus chilling) Makes about 26 (pictured p113) 220 gm (1 cup) brown sugar 60 gm softened butter 1 egg, lightly beaten 75 gm (½ cup) plain flour 1/8 tsp baking powder 70 gm roasted sesame seeds 2 tbsp black sesame seeds 70 gm (½ cup) roasted salted peanuts 1 Beat sugar and butter until pale (2-3 minutes), then beat in egg. Add flour, baking powder and ½ teaspoon fine sea salt, and beat to combine. Stir in sesame seeds and peanuts. Refrigerate until firm (1 hour). 2 Preheat oven to 160C…

ADELAIDE TO PISA Qatar Airways added Sydney to its network in March, and this month it touches down in Adelaide in its new Airbus A350. These are just two of 14 new destinations in an impressive show of confidence by the Doha-based airline. Check your geographical knowledge. There are five new European ports in the next year: in August it touches down in Pisa, the airline’s fourth Italian port, followed by Helsinki, Sarajevo, Skopje and Nice. In Africa, six new ports are planned: thrice weekly to Marrakech, Morocco, from July, as well as the Seychelles, Douala, Cameroon; Libreville, Gabon, and Lusaka, Zambia. And in December, the airline begins a daily service between Auckland and Doha, currently the world’s longest route. qatarairways.com TRANS-PACIFIC DREAM United Airlines has responded to increasing competition…

Palermo bears many wounds from the mafia’s post-WWII reign of terror but none more poignant than the empty gilt frame in Oratorio di San Lorenzo from which Caravaggio’s Nativity with St Francis and St Lawrence was stolen in 1969. Sitting above the altar surrounded by Giacomo Serpotta’s sculptures, the empty frame was a shocking reminder of a crime that’s still on the FBI’s top 10 unsolved art thefts. Custodians of the oratory found the sight so painful they hung a bad reprint, which only made the loss more acute. “It was a scar,” says Italian art expert Peter Glidewell, the driving force behind a painstaking project to recreate the painting using old photographs and the latest 3D technology. Dubbed Caravaggio 2.0, it culminated in an emotional unveiling in Palermo in…

DON’T MISS Starbucks originated in Seattle and it’s a city that takes its caffeine seriously. Popular indie cafés include Milstead & Co (900 N 34th St), Slate Coffee Bar (5413 6th Ave NW) and Elm Coffee Roasters, a well-designed recent arrival (240 2nd Ave S). TOTAL IMMERSION In need of instant rejuvenation? Indulge in a sea-salt scrub or mud wrap, or plunge into one of several mineral pools at Banya 5, a modern, bustling bathhouse beloved by locals (217 9th Ave N, banya5.com). Stateside Chef-owner Eric Johnson serves exceptional Hanoi-inspired dishes – banh mi, goat curry, spicy pork ribs – in a charming room with palm frond-pattern wallpaper, industrial furniture and brass accents. 300 East Pike St, statesideseattle.com Manolin Seafood fans arrive early for seats at the U-shaped…

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Hazelnut cakes with roast rhubarb Prep time 10 mins, cook 35 mins (plus cooling) Makes 6 120 gm sour cream, plus extra to serve ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda 120 gm plain flour 100 gm caster sugar 80 gm softened butter 60 gm hazelnut meal ½ tsp baking powder 1 egg 1 tsp vanilla bean paste Pure icing sugar, for dusting Coarsely chopped roasted hazelnuts, to serve Roast rhubarb 200 gm rhubarb, cut into rough 5cm lengths 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar Juice of I orange and ½ lemon 1 Preheat oven to 180C. Butter and flour six 125ml fluted cake tins and place on a baking tray. Combine sour cream and bicarbonate of soda in a bowl and set aside. 2 Process flour, sugar, butter, hazelnut meal, baking…