Innholdsfortegnelse for April/May 2019 i Garden & Gun

EDITOR’S LETTER Biscuits 101 A NEWBIE TAKES ON A SOUTHERN KITCHEN STAPLE DAVID DIBENEDETTO Senior Vice President & Editor in Chief PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARGARET HOUSTON I have a confession to make. Until recently, I had never baked biscuits from scratch. Oh, I’ve eaten plenty, whether at the nearest Bojangles’ after duck hunts (yes, I think that chain wins the fast-food biscuit war) or while visiting Blackberry Farm (those biscuits made the cover of G&G’s October/November 2012 issue). And though my Southern cooking repertoire does include such standards as smoked pork butt, venison chili, and fried sea trout over grits, I was inspired by this issue to finally rectify the glaring hole in my kitchen skills. I started by calling Karl Worley, who with his wife, Sarah, runs Nashville’s Biscuit Love,…

CONTRIBUTORS Lauren Northup WRITER As the director of museums at the Historic Charleston Foundation, Lauren Northup sees plenty of antebellum homes. “I’m basically a professional house peeper,” she says. An Asheville native now renovating her own historic house in Summerville, South Carolina, Northup wrote about a stately Holy City remodel for “At Home with History” (p. 110). At Charleston’s Nathaniel Russell House, she is also organizing an exhibition of objects—buttons, marbles, even a scrap of a reading primer—excavated from the rooms where enslaved men and women lived. Russell Worth Parker WRITER “I was trying to expand my worldview outside of the Marine Corps, so I decided to sit downandwrite,”saysRussell WorthParker, a lieutenant colonel stationed at the Pentagon who recently published his first article in the New York Times, about his…

TALK OF THE SOUTH YOUR GUIDE TO SOUTHERN CULTURE MUSIC Sky’s the Limit SINGER-SONGWRITER AND TEXAS NATIVE MAREN MORRIS ON HER NEW ALBUM, HER HONKY-TONK EDUCATION, AND WHY SHE WON’T BE CONSTRAINED By Matt Hendrickson PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID MCCLISTER Styling by Joseph Cassell; hair by Marwa Bashir; makeup by Lorrie Turk Dressed in a white tank top, blue jeans, and brown knee-high boots, Maren Morris slides into a suede chair in the sunroom of her manager’s East Nashville bungalow. Morning sunlight filters into the serene setting, but there’s an underlying current of anxious energy. Morris’s manager and publicist are working their phones and laptops. Boxes of chocolate croissants on the coffee table go untouched. Tomorrow, the twenty-eight-year-old will fly to New York City to premiere the video for “Girl,” an…

BOOKS History Repeats AN ICONIC LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT’S SOUTHERN TREK, REVISITED By Jonathan Miles The Southern travelogue constitutes its own subgenre of American lit. One reason, of course, is the sheer volume of writers who’ve documented their rambles through the South—a slew of journalists, plus litterateurs such as Henry Miller, James Agee, V. S. Naipaul, and more recently Paul Theroux. It’s as though writers interpret Shreve McCannon’s famous invocation in Faulkner’s Absalom, Absalom!—“Tell about the South. What’s it like there. What do they do there. Why do they live there. Why do they live at all”—as orders to pack some notebooks and head southward. A chewier reason for according these books their own separate shelf, however, is the sameness that pervades so many of these accounts. The South is different, they…

About the bartender: Jeremy Salmon As lead bartender at Garage Bar, Salmon has seen his fair share of Kentucky Derby season action. Since 2013, he's kept the Derby crowd's appetites whetted with flavorful cocktails at the neighborhood restaurant and bar, housed in a former auto service garage in downtown Louisville. Festivities for the week-long event require staying power for bartenders, Thoroughbreds, and patrons alike, with high rewards for steady hands and keen spirits. Salmon prepares all of his ingredients in the kitchen. He enjoys putting the personal element back into a craft that's become increasingly focused on technique and knowledge.…

TASTEMAKER Pit Boss NORTH CAROLINA BARBECUE BARON SAM JONES ON KEEPING FAITH WITH TRADITION—AND BREAKING IT By Kathleen Purvis PHOTOGRAPH BY DENNY CULBERT “Where I grew up, Billy Graham himself couldn’t save you if you didn’t do whole hog over wood” In 1947, a tough, hardworking seventeen-year-old named Pete Jones opened the Skylight Inn, a little drive-up in tiny Ayden, North Carolina. Though he couldn’t read or write, Jones turned it into one of the South’s most revered shrines to whole-hog barbecue. He probably wouldn’t have predicted, however, that his grandson would take the family legacy to new heights. But Sam Jones has surprised a lot of people: He’s traveled all over the country smoking barbecue, and, in addition to the original Skylight Inn, he runs the more modern Sam…

JUBILEE Highway Legacy GULF SEAFOOD, COMEBACK SAUCE, AND THE LASTING ALLURE OF A JACKSON, MISSISSIPPI, INSTITUTION BY JOHN T. EDGE PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARIANNA MASSEY Frilled by a lacy crust, the onion rings at Crechale’s Cafe leave the kitchen in a wigwam stack on a white china plate. Shirrell Benton, who has worked at this throwback roadhouse on the outskirts of Jackson, Mississippi, for more than fifty years, moves through the dining room. Bearing an order of those rings and a pair of old-fashioneds, she glides between leatherette booths, past a mounted eight-foot sailfish, beneath an amoeba-shaped drop ceiling backlit by red and green neon. She sways her hips, lifts her chin, and smiles. Parcooked, battered, and deep-fried, the rings cleave on first bite. Dunked in comeback dressing, that smooth and…

SOUTHERN STYLE House Specials FIVE OUTSTANDING DECOR ELEMENTS WITH A SOUTHERN PEDIGREE By Haskell Harris PHOTOGRAPHS BY KIRK ROBERT 1 LIGHTING The lighting designer Fleming James grew up in Greenville, Alabama, with a mother who adored decor with a story. “I based my first light on this elaborate piece in our house that I loved when I was little,” James says. “It was called a bouillotte lamp. I thought it was the most beautiful thing I’d ever seen.” Following a stint at the esteemed London home-goods maker Soane Britain, James launched her own line of lighting, Oliver Street Designs, now based in Virginia. The company’s solid-brass creations (such as the Ambassador light shown here) feature custom handmade shades ($230–$1,195; oliverstreetdesigns.com  ). 2 CERAMICS “I LOVE CLASSIC COLORS AND…

OUT OF THE WOODS BUILDING A HOUSE IN THE MIDDLE OF TENNESSEE’S BLACKBERRY FARM IS AS CLOSE TO HEAVEN AS IT GETS By Michael Graff PHOTOGRAPHS BY HEATHER ANNE THOMAS Top left: The Ingalls FOUR YEARS AGO, AN ARCHITECT FROM GEORGIA AND A DESIGNER FROM Virginia drove toward the green hills of Walland, Tennessee, to Blackberry Farm. They went past the main dining barn of one of the South’s most beloved resorts, through the white pines, and they imagined what kind of home they could grow there for their clients, a couple who had long loved spending time at the destination. We’ve all gone on a vacation and imagined living in the spot permanently; it’s another thing to pull it off. The homeowners that the architect Keith Summerour and the…

HOT PLATES Five notable restaurants prepare to welcome diners this spring Chef-restaurateur Donald Link teamed with Rebecca Wilcomb, a former chef at his Herbsaint, to open Gianna in New Orleans. The restaurant will serve pastas with Italian wines and liqueurs, and takes inspiration from Wilcomb’s Italian grandmother. Named after the Greek goddess of the hearth, Hestia in Austin, TX, is James Beard Award semifinalist Kevin Fink’s spot centering around live-fire cooking. Chefs will take orders and deliver duck fat popovers and red snapper crudo from their kitchen stations. Tucked above Ryan Ratino’s Fourteenth Street modern bistro Bresca in Washington, D.C., Jônt is the chef ’s eighteen-seat jewel box, which will serve a progressive tasting menu of eight to eleven courses. In the adjacent bar, a menu of classics spans hot…

Corey Alston PRESERVING GULLAH CULTURE IN CHARLESTON HISTORY LOVES COMPANY CHARLESTON, SC Among the stalls at Charleston, South Carolina’s City Market, fifth-generation artisan Corey Alston continues his family’s time-honored trade, sweetgrass-basket weaving, at his Gullah Sweetgrass Baskets stand. From traditional S-handled and fanning baskets to one-of-a-kind commissions, his designs stand out as much for their artistry as for their meticulous construction. But Alston is more than just an artist; he’s also an ambassador for what makes Charleston culturally unique. Why is Charleston the perfect place for your art? My craft was brought here from the west coast of Africa, and it has stayed here generationally as a heritage passed from parent to child. The culture of my people, the Gullah, is a fundamental element of Charleston. What is one thing…

Kicking Plastic If you follow me on Instagram, you know I love my family, the outdoors, and my dogs, and I hate single-use plastics, especially water bottles. This year my family made a pact to go water-bottle free and instead opt for reusable ones. The reasons are obvious. Americans used fifty billion plastic water bottles in 2017, and roughly thirty-eight billion of those were not recycled. Sadly, you don’t have to look far to see where many of them end up. My kids make a sport of picking up bottles littering the marsh and floating on our waterways, and at the local soccer field, we often find more strewn about than we can lug to the recycling bin. And while I realize we can’t stem the tide of plastic pollution…

LETTERS “While and grappa Italian are wine compare great, they to just our can’t Southern bourbon” LIQUID ASSETS Sat down with the latest Garden & Gun expecting to read about watering holes, but instead read about urban watersheds and encountered the beautiful words of Wendell Berry via David DiBenedetto (Editor’s Letter, February/March 2019). Thanks, y’all. Nathan Lott New Orleans, Louisiana While Italian wine and grappa are great, they just can’t compare to our Southern bourbon. Thanks so much for the new bars to try when we are home (“The South’s Best New Bars,” February/March 2019). Mindy Howard Butler Vicenza, Italy PRAISING POETRY One of the highlights of my experience at the Sewanee Writers’ Conference was getting to listen to, talk with, learn from, and just generally be on the same…

SPORTING SCENE Blast from the Past ARE PAPER SHOTGUN SHELLS RIPE FOR A REVIVAL? By Irwin Greenstein PHOTOGRAPH BY JACQUELINE STOFSICK Spend a morning shooting a box or two of paper shotgun shells, and one of the first things you’ll probably notice is the smell. That particular aroma, something like a combination of toasted walnuts and burnt wax, can inspire fond memories among those who grew up in an era when shotgun shells made with paper casings were the standard. Just ask Kevin Kelly, the owner of Kevin’s Fine Outdoor Gear and Apparel in the bobwhite quail capital of Thomasville, Georgia. As a boy, Kelly received his first shotgun for Christmas in 1957, a .410 Winchester Model 37 that came with a box of Winchester Super X paper shells. That…

Sass, Line, and Sinker Essays by G&G writers span funny bones and fly reels In the spit-out-your-bourbon-funny Southern Lady Code (Doubleday), Alabama native Helen Ellis’s cheeky translation of regionalisms greases together such topics as the “tidying” trend and how to force-feed a cheese log to a guest: “Slather some on a Ritz cracker and choo-choo it toward her mouth. One bite and she’s speaking in a Southern accent.” “All I know of beauty I learned with a fishing rod in my hand,” David Joy writes in the introduction to Gather at the River (Hub City Press). The essay collection coedited by the North Carolinian includes J. Drew Lanham’s ode to fishing holes; Ron Rash on Appalachian trout; and Jill McCorkle mulling over mullet.—CJ Lotz Jacqueline Stofsick (3)…

TOOLS Ready to Roll THE RIGHT BAKING GOODS—FROM MEASURING CUPS TO MIXING BOWLS—WILL DO A BATCH OF BISCUITS PROUD, EVERY TIME By Haskell Harris and Phillip Rhodes PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHNNY AUTRY Food and prop styling by Charlotte Autry BAKING SHEET Pastry professionals love Doughmakers pans and baking sheets, like this 10-by-14-inch Biscuit model, for their durability and signature pebbled surface. The pattern is embossed into the aluminum to allow airflow for better browning. It’s naturally nonstick, too ($14; doughmakers.com  ). CANISTER Simple and elegant, this lidded terracotta container from Michele Varian takes inspiration from traditional French preserving jars, and provides a cool, dry, and dark place to keep flour fresh ($100; michelevarian.com ). MEASURING SPOONS The gold finish and substantial weight of these measuring spoons…

DRINKS A Better Bitter TRADITIONAL ITALIAN AMARO TAKES A TURN SOUTH By Wayne Curtis PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHNNY AUTRY Food and prop styling by Charlotte Autry Sipping a good amaro for the first time is like getting a knock on the door from unknown relations. They might come off as a bit off-putting upon first acquaintance, but after a few moments, you find they’re of good character, full of warmth and cheer. You extend an invitation for a longer stay. Amaro is Italian for “bitter,” and the category encompasses such familiar spirits as Campari and Aperol. In Italy, amari are regional, and variations are wide-ranging—from the toasted citrus-peel and honeyed sweetness of Sicilian Averna, to the basso profundo root-beer-like notes of Amaro Lucano made in Basilicata. Our tongues are hardwired to…

IN THE GARDEN Lilies with a Legacy A HUMBLE SOUTHERN BULB FINDS NEW RESPECT, THANKS TO A CAROLINA PLANTSMAN By CJ Lotz PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARGARET HOUSTON On a lonely road, outside an abandoned juke joint, among broken glass and malt liquor cans, lilies bloomed. Nearly five feet tall, with upright white and pink trumpet flowers, the beauties caught the eye of a young plantsman driving down Highway 301 in Allendale, South Carolina. Augustus Jenkins Farmer III (he goes by “Jenks”) was then the new plant curator of Riverbanks Botanical Garden, an hour and a half north in Columbia. A graduate of Clemson University, he was on a visit home to his family in 1992 when he spotted the flowers outside a forsaken music hall called Regina’s Disco Lounge. As it…

AT HOME WITH HISTORY A YOUNG CHARLESTON FAMILY UPDATES A HOUSE WITH DEEP LOWCOUNTRY ROOTS By Lauren Northup Styling by Kendra Surface PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIE WILLIAMS AN ENCHANTING PAINTING HANGS IN A QUIET CORNER OF ZOË AND BRYS Stephens’s Charleston, South Carolina, sitting room, depicting the library of Zoë’s childhood home, the circa-1772 William Gibbes House, with its brimming bookshelves and French wallpaper awash in afternoon light. The scene provides both a glimpse into the past and a powerful reminder of Zoë’s generational perspective on life in an old Charleston home. “We are all only stewards of these houses for a short period,” she says, “and time is so much bigger than any one of us. These houses will be here long after we are gone.” Zoë, who had two…

The SOUTHERN DRIFT BOAT I visited High Country Boats in Banner Elk, North Carolina, on a snowy winter day, to help me understand how Matt Maness’s —T. E. N. drift boats differ from—and emulate—their famous Western cousins. Maness emerged from a concrete-block shop below an old Appalachian log house he and his wife, Shannon, were repurposing. He wore a two-week-old beard and a striped beanie over a ball cap—winter garb for a mountain fly-fishing guide. Inside the shop a half dozen boats were stabled in various stages of construction. Rolls of fiberglass cloth lined the walls. Yogurt containers filled with dried epoxy were scattered about like old coffee cups. Eight boats are about as many as Maness and his business partner, Les Vance, want to build each season, but given…

FIELD REPORT DESTINATIONS A guide to adventures in the South and beyond BRAYS ISLAND PLANTATION South Carolina Just sixty miles from Charleston, SC, lies 5,500 acres of natural beauty, sporting activities, and a community where neighbors live for the everyday adventure. BraysIsland.com  843.846.3170 THE BROADMOOR Colorado From the traditional vacation to a spontaneous adventure, the award-winning Broadmoor gives you a privileged glimpse into a true luxurious Colorado Rocky Mountain adventure. Broadmoor.com  888.283.9879 REYNOLDS LAKE OCONEE Georgia Founded on 12,000 acres of lakefront property, Reynolds Lake Oconee features six golf courses, unique sporting grounds, and all the recreational and culinary amenities befitting a world-class private club. ReyoldsLakeOconee.com  800.800.5250 GREENVILLE South Carolina From unique shops and art galleries to distinguished museums, theaters, and natural attractions, the Greenville, SC, area awaits discovery. VisitGreenvilleSC.com…

ADVERTISEMENT Choose Your Own Adventure THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE IN PANAMA CITY BEACH With 320 days of sunshine on average per year and a wide variety of activities that will satisfy every type of traveler, you could make multiple trips to Panama City Beach, located where the Gulf of Mexico and St. Andrews Bay converge, and still discover something new each time. No matter who you are or what your agenda, having an ice-cold beverage and a basket of fried shrimp on the beachfront deck at Schooners, “the Last Local Beach Club,” is the only way to start your PCB vacation. (Children are welcome.) From there, the choice is yours. At Pier Park, go for a ride on the recently opened SkyWheel—its thirty gondolas soar two hundred feet above the…

ADVERTISEMENT Design Notes Garden & Gun style director Haskell Harris breaks down the transformation of the magazine’s historic Cigar Factory office space When the G&G team, led by style director Haskell Harris, began dreaming up the design for the magazine’s new digs inside Charleston, South Carolina’s revamped Cigar Factory—during the early part of the twentieth century, 1.5 million cigars were hand rolled daily at the historic East Bay Street building, built in 1881—they wanted the place to feel more like the homes depicted within the magazine’s glossy pages than a corporate New York–style office space. “I think Southerners, in general, feel really comfortable in environments that are welcoming and relaxed,” Harris says. “The space may have refined elements, but on the whole, they are pretty laid-back.” To help achieve that…

CONSERVATION Boxwood Blues A VIRGINIA NURSERY FIGHTS BACK AGAINST A BLIGHT WIPING OUT ONE OF THE SOUTH’S MOST BELOVED PLANTS By Logan Ward PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY DARREN BRAUN Josh Meyer was ten days into his position as the director of buildings, gardens, and grounds at Tudor Place Historic House and Garden in Washington, D.C.’s Georgetown neighborhood when a staff gardener told him something was up with the boxwood. This was on a Friday last October, and Meyer, trained as a landscape architect, didn’t think much of the minor defoliation and leaf spotting. “But here’s where it gets crazy,” he says. “We came back on Monday, and the symptoms had spread to pretty much all the collection areas. You could see this thing just descending on the property.” The “thing” was…

STYLE Lightness of Being A CHILDHOOD SPLIT BETWEEN INDIA AND NEW ORLEANS INSPIRED TRISHALA BHANSALI’S NEW LINE OF GAUZY ESSENTIALS By Elizabeth Hutchison PHOTOGRAPHS BY TIM BLACK It’s not hyperbole to say that the designer Trish-ala Bhansali’s love of Indian textiles began just moments after her first breath, when her mother wrapped her tiny wriggling body in a dohar, a traditional Indian blanket made of three layers of fine soft muslin. Now in her early thirties, the New Orleans native still won’t travel without one. And muslin, along with a handful of other high-quality natural fabrics, has become the foundation for Lekha, her new line of handmade dresses, blouses, pants, jackets, and shoes, all inspired by the two rich cultures that shaped her childhood. Bhansali was born and raised in…

ANATOMY OF A CLASSIC Open Invitation A SWIM IN CUMIN-SPICED SOFRITO AND A STEAM IN VERMOUTH-SCENTED BROTH GIVE THESE CLAMS A KICK By Kim Severson Food and prop styling by Charlotte Autry Southerners who love bivalves can be deeply particular about the provenance of their oysters. But clams? Not so much. At Watchman’s Seafood and Spirits, a cheery Southern sustainable-seafood restaurant in Atlanta from the team behind Kimball House, chef Daniel Chance is hoping to change that. All of the fish he cooks there has a story. The kitchen can trace the snapper to the fishing boat that pulled it from the Gulf of Mexico and knows the day-to-day state of the stone crab fishery off the coast of Florida. “We want to save some for the next guy,” Chance…

WHAT’S IN SEASON How Sweet It Is FRIED, GRILLED, OR PLATED RAW, GEORGIA’S FAMED VIDALIA ONIONS ARE SPRINGTIME MVPs By Jenny Everett ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN BURGOYNE In the spring of 1931, one of the first farmers to plant onions in Toombs County, Georgia, made an unexpected discovery: Bulbs that were typically sharp-flavored when planted elsewhere turned sweet in the low-sulfur soil of his fields. He started telling neighbors and selling bags from the back of his truck. Word spread about “those onions fromVidalia,” the local PigglyWiggly stocked them, and the easy-eating allium gained rock-star veggie status around the South. “I have been eating these sweet onions ever since I had teeth, or so they tell me,” says Adam Evans, chef and owner at the newly opened Automatic Seafood & Oysters…

PROMOTION THE GARDEN & GUN GUIDE TO MintJulepMonth® APRIL 4–MAY 4 JULEP RECIPES WITH A TWIST and PLANT YOUR MINT TODAY! In 2013, Louisville declared April to be Mint Julep Month. In the ensuing years, this monthlong celebration of the South’s favorite springtime sipper has spread far beyond Kentucky—to participating bars across America, where you can enjoy refreshing twists on the traditional drink of the Derby. Participants are encouraged to swap plastic straws for sustainable alternatives in an effort to make a positive difference for our oceans and waterways. To give you a taste of the action, we’ve called in four recipes, each featuring a unique secret ingredient, from expert bartenders making Kentucky-caliber juleps in Chicago, Houston, D.C., and Charleston, South Carolina. #MINTJULEPMONTH WE MAKE OUR BOURBON CAREFULLY. PLEASE ENJOY…

LET THERE BE LIGHT A NEW ORLEANS LIGHTING DESIGNER LOOKS TO HER GARDEN DISTRICT HOUSE FOR INSPIRATION By John Kessler Styling by Suzonne Stirling PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALISON GOOTEE WHEN JULIE NEILL FIRST BOUGHT HER DOUBLE SHOTGUN HOUSE ON A pretty Garden District street in New Orleans, it offered a built-in solution for any parent with two teenagers to raise. The front door on the left side could serve as the kids’ entrance, with the door on the right reserved for grown-ups. As the children progressed through high school, she had a few years to consider how she’d renovate the 2,800-square-foot duplex—which at the time had six tiny bedrooms and a wall separating the halves—and make it into the home she wanted. Most essential to Neill’s plan: honoring the 1880 structure’s…

The CRAZY BIG, INSANELY COLORFUL, COMPLETELY FAR-OUT VISION of JAMES MICHALOPOULOS THE MOST RECOGNIZABLE PAINTER IN NEW ORLEANS IS ON A MISSION: TO MAKE SURE THE CITY DOESN’T FORGET THE ARTISTS WHO KEEP IT FUNKY BY WAYNE CURTIS PHOTOGRAPHS BY WILLIAM HEREFORD A STAIRCASE HAS GONE MISSING— it was supposed to be over here, says the artist James Michalopoulos. He had marked the location on the warehouse floor the other day, and those marks had been erased or moved or something happened, and so he scouts around. “Oh, here it is,” he finally says, tapping a scuffed line with his toe where the stairs and their ziggurat landings will soon arise. He demonstrates with his hands how the steps will make their way to the second floor…

G&G PARTNER EVENTS MAY 3 A STITZEL-WELLER AFFAIR Louisville, Kentucky Blade and Bow Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey hosts the fourth annual pre-Derby celebration featuring a dinner menu by Brooks Reitz followed by a live performance with Mt. Joy at the legendary Stitzel-Weller distillery. MAY 9–12 FISH TO FORK WEEKEND Amelia Island, Florida Dine on fresh catch and culinary specialties by top chefs from around the country at the sixth annual Fish to Fork weekend hosted by Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort. JUNE 7–9 B4 WEEKEND Boca Grande, Florida Gasparilla Inn & Club presents the ultimate weekend of Beach, BBQ, Bourbon, and Beer at its annual B4 Weekend—three days of warm weather, exceptional accommodations, and not-to-be-missed culinary experiences. JUNE 14 SUMMER STABLE PARTY Nashville, Tennessee Celebrate the start of summer at…

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