I rish whiskey is having its moment. For decades, this venerable, elegant, yet peerlessly approachable spirit found itself eclipsed by its bolder, more brawling Scotch and American cousins. That's over with. Sales have been rising at spectacular rates (last year, they were up an astounding 23 percent in the U. S.), new brands abound, and new distilleries are open, with more in the pipeline. But why?
A little history: 30 years ago, there was only one company making whiskey in all of Ireland, Irish Distillers Ltd, with two operating distilleries. A hundred years before, when the English whiskey writer Alfred Barnard toured the island's distilleries, he found 28 in operation, many of them quite large. But the 20th century was unkind to the industry, leaving only Bushmills, in Northern Ireland,…