Having visited Toyama many times over the last decade, I realise now that I was unforgivably dismissive on my first visit. The coastal city is about three hours by train from Tokyo, and I’d arrived early to wander the city before a tour of nearby rural craft areas. When I stepped outside the station, though, it seemed sparse. Faced with low, cuboid buildings and wide yet noticeably quiet streets, I decided there was little to see but prosaic offices. So, within minutes, I made a beeline for Kansui Park, where I waited inside the cafe overlooking the canal and hectares of verdant lawn.
Later, I realised that had I walked a little further, I could have seen Nihon Sekkei’s all-glass Grand Plaza, completed in 2007, or taken the Portram, Japan’s…
