Just before leaving my home town of Wellington, New Zealand’s capital city, to move overseas, I took a walk to the Mount Victoria lookout. This was always my favourite Wellington walk for its wise old trees and abundance of flowers, but also because it shows the whole maze of the city, and it always reminded me how small the city is, despite how big it once felt.
In Māori mythology, the North Island of New Zealand is a large fish, caught by the demigod Māui. Wellington Harbour and Lake Wairarapa are the fish’s eyes, and the Remutaka, Tararua and Ruahine mountains its spine. Even now, the region’s rugged geography has an untamed wildness to it.
In the city itself, much of the street life falls around the thoroughfare streets and…