PROCURE a fine, lively fat turtle,’ reads the first line of a royal recipe for turtle soup, which runs on for many pages, including detailed notes on the slaughter (‘kill the turtle overnight so that it may be left to bleed in a cool place…’) and exactly how to cut the flesh from the shell. Edward VII couldn’t get enough of the stuff and was rarely without a flask to hand. Yet, even with a kitchen brigade of 42, making this soup took both time and toil.
This blessed broth, however, was nothing when compared with his favourite dish, Côtelettes de Bécassines à la Souvaroff. Here, a snipe was deboned, spread with foie gras and game forcemeat, breadcrumbed, wrapped in pig’s caul, grilled and smothered in a truffle-and-Madeira sauce. Hours…