IT was Colin Tennant, the flamboyant Scottish lord responsible for Mustique, who, back in the 1980s, had the brilliant idea of opening a hideaway beach resort beside St Lucia’s iconic twin peaks. He ran a restaurant here called Bang Between the Pitons, because that’s exactly where it sat and, today, this hallowed spot —part of a World Heritage Site—is home to the finest hotel on the island, the 96-room Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort.
‘You’re right in the cleavage,’ my taxi driver explains graphically as we descend to a forested valley culminating in an immaculate white beach. Its sands have been imported, but, elsewhere, the mood is sweetly St Lucian. Tropical gardens frame a vast pool, a traditional Creole breakfast is served in the Great House, white wooden cottages decorated…