Innholdsfortegnelse for February/March 2023 i Cook's Country

THE BEHIND-THE-SCENES snapshot of Kelly Song, the newest test cook to join Cook’s Country, reminds me of my early experiences in a professional test kitchen and the things I learned there that made me a much better, more efficient, and creative cook. I was in my early twenties and had never seen anything like the Los Angeles Times’ test kitchen. The space was essentially a large, rectangular-shaped home kitchen outfitted with island workstations and high-end appliances, including double ovens, two cooktops, and a separate refrigerator and freezer on one end. At the other end, double doors opened into a dimly lit studio where food-photography magic was made. A large window offered tourists a seat at our kitchen table. Inside of the Times’ test kitchen, Donna Deane, a professional home economist,…

When pouring broth or milk from a Tetra Pak, most people tend to pour with the spout side down, which can be messy as the liquid glugs out. If you hold the spout side up, the liquid level doesn’t come all the way up to the height of the narrow hole, leaving a little air space above the liquid flowing out of the hole. This allows air to rush in at the same time as the liquid pours out, preventing the airflow from being interrupted and the liquid from glugging. Our science editor explained that when the liquid comes out of a container, an equal amount of air gets pulled into the container filling the abandoned space. If the container’s opening is wider than the liquid stream—as with a drinking…

MATEO OTERO PULLS a large, steaming pan of beef birria—chile-and-spice-braised beef—from the oven that it’s been simmering in for 14 hours. His Tucson restaurant, named Rollies Mexican Patio for the rolled, fried tacos on the menu, sits along South 12th Avenue, a stretch of highway known for its abundance of Mexican restaurants and grocery stores. In recent years, Rollies has garnered local acclaim for its birria, a dish that hails from Jalisco, Mexico, where it is traditionally made with goat. “In Tucson,” Otero says, “birria is always made with beef.” Otero fishes the meat from the broth and places it in a separate pan. Then, he blitzes the broth and aromatics with an immersion blender and runs the brick-red liquor through a fine-mesh strainer. The broth will serve as a…

This recipe calls for scrubbing the raw clams and then straining the clam cooking liquid to remove excess grit. Even so, there can be some grit and sand from inside the clams that ends up on the plate; this bothers some diners more than others. If you want to take the extra step to remove the bulk of the hidden grit, you can purge your clams before cooking (and then strain the cooking liquid as directed). Purging makes the clams expel any grit hiding inside their shells. Here’s how to do it. 1 Dissolve 2 tablespoons kosher salt for every quart cool water in bowl. 2 Fully submerge clams in saltwater solution. 3 Allow clams to sit for 2 hours at cool room temperature or refrigerate overnight. 4 Carefully lift clams from bowl, leaving…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 45 MINUTES Lemony Penne with Salmon and Fennel If you don’t like the licorice-y flavor of tarragon, you can substitute equal amounts of dill or parsley instead. 1 pound penne1 teaspoon table salt, divided, plus salt for cooking pasta2 (6- to 8-ounce) skinless salmon fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick½ teaspoon pepper3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided1 fennel bulb, fronds minced; stalks discarded; bulb quartered, cored, and sliced thin2 shallots, chopped1 cup heavy cream3 tablespoons capers, chopped1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 2 tablespoons juice2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. 2. Meanwhile,…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 45 MINUTES Pomegranate Chicken with Baharat Sweet Potatoes One 10-ounce box of couscous will yield the 1⅔ cups needed for this recipe. If you can’t find baharat, you can substitute ½ teaspoon of paprika, ¼ teaspoon of pepper, ⅛ teaspoon of ground cumin, and a pinch of ground cloves. 8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed2½ teaspoons table salt, divided1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces2¼ cups water, divided1 teaspoon baharat3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses½ cup pomegranate seeds3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 teaspoon red pepper flakes1⅔ cups couscous¼ cup fresh mint leaves, torn 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Sprinkle chicken with 1 teaspoon salt and place skin side down in cold 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cook…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 1 HOUR Ribollita (Tuscan-Style Vegetable and Bread Soup) We like to serve this soup with (even more) Italian bread. Garnish with grated Parmesan cheese, if desired. 6 ounces rustic Italian bread, crusts removed, torn into 1-inch pieces (about 4 cups)⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for serving10 ounces Swiss chard, stems chopped, leaves sliced into ½-inch-wide strips1 onion, chopped2 carrots, peeled and chopped1 teaspoon table salt3 garlic cloves, minced¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand6 cups vegetable broth1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Arrange bread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until dry and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. 2. Meanwhile,…

The American Table Lima beans, which originated in Guatemala, have been cultivated in Lima, Peru, for centuries—hence the name—and are a staple food there. By the 1300s the Peruvians had found trading partners throughout South, Central, and North America and also in Europe. As the beans were introduced to North America, they were adapted into regional recipes. Many versions of Native American succotash used this large, nutritious bean. Lima beans remain especially popular in the dishes of the American South.…

For this dish we chose regular green lentils, which tend to break down a bit as they cook, making for a creamier final dish. Lentilles du Puy hold their shape better than regular green lentils, making them ideal in dishes where they need to stay more intact, such as lentil salads. As for flavor, green lentils are more mild and earthy, while lentilles du Puy are more peppery and complex. We like both types of lentils equally but use them in different types of dishes.…

IN CHINA (the world’s top grower of peanuts) and particularly in Sichuan, these mouthwatering peanuts are a favorite drinking snack. Spiced with citrusy, numbing Sichuan peppercorns and bright-red, aromatic chiles, they’re crunchy and salty-sweet with a balanced heat and an intense savory complexity. Huang Fei Hong, the manufacturer that sells snack-size bags of these spicy peanuts, has popularized them around the globe. Though their version is available online, once you have the ingredients on hand, it’s cheaper and more satisfying to make your own. It’s also exceptionally easy. The classic method calls for skinning and slowly deep-frying raw peanuts until well toasted before pouring off the oil and stir-frying them with spices. But you can achieve a similar outcome (using less oil and taking less time) by starting with unsalted…

LOOK FOR: • Multilayered bags that you can’t see through, to protect chips from air and light that makes chips turn stale and lose crispness • Larger chips (labels show fewer chips per serving) for easier grabbing and dipping • Moderate sodium (90 to 115 milligrams per serving) for just-right saltiness WHAT TO AVOID: • Clear or mostly clear plastic, single-layer bags that let light and air pass through and spoil chips’ crispness and freshness • Sodium levels of less than 90 milligrams (too low) or more than 115 milligrams per serving (too high) leaving chips too bland or too salty…

America’s Test Kitchen has been teaching home cooks how to be successful in the kitchen since 1993. Our mission is to empower and inspire confidence, community, and creativity in the kitchen. Millions watch our two shows on public television; read our two flagship magazines (Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated); and rely on our books, websites, videos, podcasts, and educational products for children. America’s Test Kitchen is located in a state-of-the-art Boston facility with 15,000 square feet of test kitchen and studio space. Learn more at AmericasTestKitchen.com. FIND THE ROOSTER! We’ve hidden a tiny version of the rooster above in a photo in the pages of this issue. Tell us where the rooster is hiding, and we’ll enter you in a random drawing. The first correct entry drawn will win a…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 45 MINUTES Chicken Cheesesteaks To make the chicken easier to slice, freeze it for 15 minutes. ¾ cup jarred hot or sweet cherry peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine, plus 1 teaspoon brine⅓ cup mayonnaise1 teaspoon pepper, divided2 (8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and sliced thin crosswise¾ teaspoon table salt, divided3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin1 onion, halved and sliced thin4 (6-inch) sub rolls, split3 ounces thinly sliced sharp provolone cheese, cut in half3 ounces thinly sliced American cheese, cut in half 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Combine cherry peppers and brine, mayonnaise, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt and…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 40 MINUTES Steak, Potatoes, and Broccolini with Scallion Sauce Use small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter. 1½ pounds small red potatoes, unpeeled, halved½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided2 teaspoons table salt, divided1¾ teaspoons pepper, divided1 pound broccolini, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch pieces6 scallions, trimmed2 (1-pound) boneless rib-eye steaks, 1½ to 1¾ inches thick, trimmed2 tablespoons prepared horseradish2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss potatoes, 2 tablespoons oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper together on rimmed baking sheet. Arrange potatoes cut side down and roast for 10 minutes. Toss broccolini with 2 tablespoons oil and ½ teaspoon salt and scatter over potatoes. Roast until vegetables…

Liquid smoke is thought to have been invented in 1895 by Ernest H. Wright, a pharmacist in Missouri, when he observed droplets of liquid fall down a stovepipe and realized the smoke was hitting cold air above, causing it to liquefy (this eventually led to the production of Wright’s Liquid Smoke, a product still commonly available today). There are brands of liquid smoke that are chemically fabricated with artificial smoke flavor, and you should avoid them (check the ingredient list). But good liquid smoke is manufactured in a relatively similar way to how Wright is first thought to have witnessed it: by pulling smoke from smoldering wood through a condenser. The condenser quickly cools the vapors and converts them into liquid.…

POTATO SALAD IS not a new idea, but this version might just surprise you. The simple combination of potatoes and fresh herbs in a creamy dressing—heady with the aroma of toasted garlic—may sound inviting enough, but what gives this potato salad a unique appeal is the texture of the potatoes, which are boiled whole and then torn into chunks (rather than being cut before boiling or boiled and then sliced). What’s so special about boiling and tearing potatoes? Boiling baby Yukon Gold potatoes whole in extra-salty water until they are very tender (rather than just tender, as some potato salads call for), creates a delightful contrast in textures between the tight, slightly firm exteriors (that “pop” a bit when you bite into them) and the creamy, well-seasoned interiors. Tearing the…

SWISS CHARD—like other dark leafy greens such as kale, collards, and spinach—possesses a richness that is immensely satisfying. The high vitamin and mineral content contributes to making you feel good when eating it too. The focus for this recipe was on simplicity and on letting the flavor of the chard shine without too many distractions. We sought to avoid having to separate the stems from the leaves (some recipes, including some of our own, give the tougher stem pieces a jump start in the pan) and to do all the cooking in one step—no blanching. To prepare this recipe, soften onion and garlic in a substantial amount of extra-virgin olive oil; this infuses the oil with deep flavor that carries through the dish. Then sprinkle in some red pepper flakes…

ESCABECHE IS A Castilian Spanish term used to describe meats, fish, and/or vegetables that are cooked (usually steamed or fried) and then marinated in a potent mixture of vinegar, oil, and aromatics. The result is a bright, tangy dish that can be enjoyed as an appetizer or a main dish, at room temperature or, most commonly, chilled. In Catalan Cuisine (1988), Colman Andrews explains that escabeche is based on a Persian preparation known as sikbāg, or “vinegar stew.” The dish was brought to what is now modern Spain by the Muslim population (that Christian Europeans called the Moors) that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula (and other regions) for 800 years during the Middle Ages. Similar dishes can be found throughout Spain, Portugal, the Philippines, Central and South America, Jamaica, France, Italy,…

HOW TO MAKE CHOCOLATE SNAPPY, SHINY, AND SMOOTH So many of our favorite Valentine’s Day treats are dipped in melted chocolate (think chocolate-dipped strawberries). But if you’ve ever melted a bar of chocolate to use as a coating, you might have been disappointed in the results. Melted chocolate must be properly tempered in order to develop its characteristic snap, shine, and smooth mouthfeel once it hardens. Tempering is a process of very precise heating, cooling, and reheating chocolate in such a way that its molecular structure is reworked to create chocolate that is shiny and snappy. If the tempering is not done correctly, the resulting chocolate can be soft, mushy, grainy, gray, and/or mottled. We temper chocolate by melting most of it and then adding the rest and stirring until…

RATHER THAN LUGGING home cans or bottles of sparkling water—and then filling up your recycling bin—carbonate tap water at home using a soda maker. Some models we’ve tested are flimsy or produce lackluster bubbles, but we’ve found a few favorites. Our top models use CO2 canisters that can carbonate dozens of bottles of water before they need to be replaced. (Those canisters can be exchanged at many retailers and online.) They also have conveniently sized reusable water bottles that are comfortable to drink from and easy to store in the refrigerator. However, only some of the bottles are dishwasher-safe. Finally, they are easy to operate. Some work by repeatedly pressing a button or pulling a lever; a “one-touch” model has three pre-programmed carbonation settings. Any of our winners can save…

WHEN AN ORDER of osso buco comes to the table at an Italian restaurant (whether it’s in the United States or abroad), it’s an event. As the savory smell permeates the room, all eyes turn to the meaty veal shank beautifully glossed in a dark, rich, red wine– and tomato-based sauce. The “wow” factor is high. But in Milan, where osso buco is said to have originated, the veal dish shows little resemblance to the version that’s commonly served in the United States. Rather than being adorned in a dark gravy, it is pared down, lighter, and fresher—the shanks are braised to tenderness in white wine and finished with a bright gremolata (a mixture of parsley, lemon zest, and garlic). This version of osso buco is cooked “in bianco,” meaning…

SPAGHETTI alle vongole, pasta and clams tossed in a garlicky white wine sauce, rightfully resides in the pantheon of classic Italian dishes. It’s one of the simplest, most satisfying iterations of pasta with fresh seafood, with a rich, complex sauce built from a heavenly shellfish broth. And unlike most other broths, this one requires only two ingredients and less than 10 minutes to make, a product of simply steaming the clams in white wine until they open. The resulting elixir is brimming with the bright essence of the ocean. It’s one of the simplest, most satisfying iterations of pasta with fresh seafood … Though this dish is exceptionally simple, making it well requires taking care in two key areas: removing the sand from the clams and recruiting the starchy pasta…

Honey-Sriracha Shrimp Lettuce Wraps DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 35 MINUTES Honey-Sriracha Shrimp Lettuce Wraps We like to garnish these wraps with chopped peanuts. Serve with rice, if desired. 1 carrot, peeled and cut into2-inch matchsticks2 tablespoons rice vinegar¼ cup mayonnaise¼ cup sriracha, divided1 tablespoon honey1 tablespoon soy sauce1½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, cut into ½-inch pieces¼ teaspoon table salt2 tablespoons vegetable oil4 scallions, white parts minced, green parts sliced thin on bias1 head Bibb lettuce (8 ounces), leaves separated 1. Combine carrot and vinegar in bowl; set aside, tossing occasionally. Combine mayonnaise and 2 tablespoons sriracha in second bowl. Whisk honey, soy sauce, and remaining 2 tablespoons sriracha together in third bowl. 2. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels and sprinkle…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 45 MINUTES Italian Sausages with Farro and Kale Pilaf We developed this recipe using Bob’s Red Mill Organic Farro. 1 cup pearled farro¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided Table salt for cooking farro10 ounces kale, stemmed and coarsely chopped1½ pounds sweet Italian sausage2 apples, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces1 red onion, chopped1½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary½ teaspoon pepper¾ cup pecans, toasted and chopped coarse¼ cup dried currants 1. Combine farro and 1 tablespoon oil in large pot. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 6 minutes. Add 2 quarts water and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until grains are tender with slight chew, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir in kale and cook until kale is tender,…

DINNER TONIGHT SERVES 4 1 HOUR Mushroom Taleggio Pizza Garnish with minced fresh chives and red pepper flakes, if desired. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided12 ounces mixed mushrooms, sliced ¼ inch thick3 garlic cloves, minced1½ teaspoons minced fresh rosemary½ teaspoon pepper¼ teaspoon table salt1 pound pizza dough, room temperature6 ounces (¾ cup) small-curd cottage cheese4 ounces fontina cheese, shredded (1 cup)4 ounces Taleggio cheese, rind removed, broken into rough ½-inch pieces1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup) 1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Brush rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons oil. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just shimmering. Add mushrooms, garlic, rosemary, pepper, and salt and cook until mushrooms are browned, about 10 minutes.…

LIMA BEANS ARE worth getting excited about. If your memories of these beans are informed by experiences with murky, grainy, gray specimens in your school cafeteria, you’re in for a pleasant surprise when you try the frozen baby variety we call for here: They’re sweet, petite, and tender—yet still substantial. In a nod to Southern home cooks (proud masters of cooking beans with cured pork), we simmer frozen baby lima beans in chicken broth with some lightly browned bacon, a halved onion, salt, and plenty of black pepper—the resulting beans and their rich cooking liquid are much more than the sum of their parts. The broth, with a little stirring, becomes a thick, glossy liquid as the starch from the lima beans and a bit of bacon fat emulsify into…

LOOKING FOR A persuasive way to say “be mine” this Valentine’s Day? There aren’t many ways better than presenting the person—or people—you care about with a gorgeous, caramel-glazed mini chocoflan of their very own. This popular Mexican dessert pairs a creamy, silky vanilla flan with decadent chocolate cake. In Spanish, the plural form of flan is “flanes” (pronounced “FLAN-es). Mini chocoflanes are also called pastelitos imposibles, or impossible cakes, for the seemingly magical way the cake batter and flan switch positions while baking. The whole thing is caressed with glossy cajeta, a sweet-tangy sauce that’s produced by cooking down and caramelizing sweetened goat’s milk. It’s like the well-known cow’s-milk dulce de leche but more complex with a subtle brightness that lifts you off your feet, lightening the rich dessert and…

AMERICANS LOVE SALTY snacks, so it’s no surprise that tortilla chips are the second most popular in the nation—after potato chips—with sales of $5.3 billion annually. Tortilla chips are “a big sector of overall packaged snack food [and have been] growing the past several years,” said David Walsh of snack-industry association SNAC International. Tortilla chips were first popularized in the United States in the 1940s by a Mexican American woman, Rebecca Webb Carranza, who ran a Los Angeles tortilla shop. She cut up and fried some misshapen corn tortillas instead of discarding them—and they were an instant success. In the test kitchen we love them with salsa and dips, layered in nachos and casseroles, and atop bowls of chili. To find our favorites, we researched top-selling national brands compiled by…