Innholdsfortegnelse for October/November 2022 i Cook's Country

THE TURKEY ON our front cover is the center-piece that everyone at your holiday dinner will admire and devour. Over the years cooks have tried, and often failed, to serve a bird that is as delicious as it looks. For golden-brown skin, my grandmother rubbed her turkey with melted butter and basted it with a bulb baster every 15 minutes, but that technique takes a lot of time and effort. My mother’s generation cooked the turkey in an oven bag to ensure even cooking, but that bird tasted more steamed than roasted. And the professional cooks of my generation recommended roasting the turkey upside down in high heat, but that hot bird was difficult to manage and always looked a little squished to me. Then one Thanksgiving Eve when I…

I always set out a dish of sugared cranberries on Thanksgiving morning. The sweet-tart poppers complement everything from morning coffee cake to afternoon snacks to evening nightcaps. Their glittery shine makes any spread feel festive, and they also make a beautiful garnish sprinkled over a dessert (such as our Cranberry-Ginger Apple Tart on page 17) or skewered and perched on a cocktail glass. To make the cranberries extra-special, I’ll sometimes add aromatics, such as a couple orange zest strips, some fresh ginger coins, and/or a cinnamon stick, to the syrup as it’s heating. And I always save the syrup after draining the berries. It doesn’t taste much like cranberry, but it’s got the prettiest pink hue and can be used in any cocktail recipe that calls for simple syrup. SUGARED…

WATCH THE WEATHER It’s best not to fry when it’s raining, snowing, or windy. LOOK UP Make sure that there are no tree limbs, awnings, etc. overhead. KEEP CLEAR Set up the fryer in a stable, level area 10 feet away from buildings and leave 2 feet between the tank and the burner. Keep children and pets away. CHECK FOR LEAKS Be sure that all connections between the tank and fryer are secure and leak-free. MEASURE THE OIL FIRST Do not overfill the frying pot to ensure that excess oil does not drip into the flames. FULLY THAW THE TURKEY Oil and water—even frozen water—don’t mix; a partially frozen bird can cause oil to shoot out of the pot. MIND THE FLAME Keep the burner centered under the pot so…

A SALAD CENTERED ON Belgian endive, a member of the chicory family known for its bitter edge, calls for ingredients such as fruit, nuts, and cheese that can complement and mellow the endive’s bite. While endive, pungent blue cheese, and toasted nuts (especially walnuts) are a classic match, choosing oranges over apples or pears is a little unexpected. The tangy-sweet punch of the oranges keeps the bitterness of the endive in check, and it also balances the funk of the creamy blue cheese. Segmenting the oranges, which eliminates the peel and pith, emphasizes their vibrant color for a salad that looks as elegant as it tastes. Marinating the orange segments and thinly sliced red onion in red wine vinegar and olive oil blends their flavors and mellows the sharp onion.…

THERE IS SOMETHING so special about chicken skin. I love the way that the skin—when cooked carefully—renders, crisps, and achieves a deep roasted flavor. This recipe is for those who adore chicken skin the way I do but who also like white meat and can do without the bones. All you have to do is buy bone-in, skin-on breasts and remove the bones using some simple knife work. With a little guidance (see “Keep the Skin; Lose the Bones”) and practice, the technique is a cinch. Once you remove the bones, reserve them for making stock (see the recipe on page 37). Next, rub the boneless, skin-on breasts with a mixture of salt, pepper, lemon zest, and cracked coriander and fennel seeds (reserve a portion of this, sans salt, for…

SLICES OF RICH, tender brisket cloaked in a velvety gravy are already the star of any holiday table they grace, but you can make your brisket dinner next-level delicious by adding tzimmes, a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish dish of root vegetables and dried fruit (see “All About Tzimmes”), to the mix: Earthy carrots and sweet potatoes plus jammy prunes add sweetness that perfectly balances an unctuous, beefy braise. An Instant Pot is an ideal vessel for the job, since the pressure-cooking function tenderizes brisket in a fraction of the time (see “How Does an Instant Pot Work?”). To start, pick up a flat-cut brisket (see “One Brisket, Two Cuts”) and trim any extra-thick patches of fat cap. Then halve the meat lengthwise (to create narrower pieces that fit in the pot…

America’s Test Kitchen has been teaching home cooks how to be successful in the kitchen since 1993. Our mission is to empower and inspire confidence, community, and creativity in the kitchen. Millions watch our two shows on public television; read our two flagship magazines (Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated); and rely on our books, websites, videos, podcasts, and educational products for children. America’s Test Kitchen is located in a state-of-the-art Boston facility with 15,000 square feet of test kitchen and studio space. Learn more at AmericasTestKitchen.com. FIND THE ROOSTER! We’ve hidden a tiny version of the rooster above in a photo in the pages of this issue. Tell us where the rooster is hiding, and we’ll enter you in a random drawing. The first correct entry drawn will win a…

We set up a buffet using vintage Salton warming trays that have been in my family since the 1960s. We also like to use the “keep warm” settings on a slow cooker or an electric pressure cooker to serve things like mashed potatoes, soups, or sauces. –Nicole Konstantinakos, Deputy Food Editor Thanksgiving leans heavily on the stove and oven. Give some of the work to your other appliances. For instance, a toaster oven can keep rolls warm on top while baking more inside. –Jacqueline Gochenouer, Photo Test Cook Make a simple chicken stock (see page 37) well in advance to use in gravy, dressing, and even a leftover turkey gumbo. –Matthew Fairman, Senior Editor I always plan at least one grilled item to free up oven space (also, if you…

SMALL, WAXY fingerling potatoes are perfect for roasting, smashing, and dressing with a flavored oil. How do you do it? Coat the potatoes in olive oil and roast them on a rimmed baking sheet until they’re nearly tender, and then use the bottom of a dry measuring cup to evenly smash (or lightly crush) them. The potatoes’ petite size and thin skins make the smashing easy. Then roast them again to add flavorful browning. To make a simple, sensational flavored oil, render pieces of porky pancetta in extra-virgin olive oil in a skillet. This creates irresistibly crispy pieces of pancetta swimming in an ultrasavory infused oil. Add garlic and sage off the heat to bloom their flavors. Then all that’s left to do is pour the garlicky, herby pancetta oil…

YOU KNOW THAT classic American apple pie, standing proud and tall and packed with sweet, juicy fruit? This is not that pie. This free-form tart, more rustic yet somehow more elegant, too, features tender apple slices, crimson pops of tart cranberries, and bits of spicy ginger, all spread over a buttery, delightfully crisp crust. It’s got just enough cinnamon and orange zest to provide background warmth, and it’s lightly sweet, making it the perfect vehicle for lots of whipped cream or ice cream (or both). To make it, you’ll start with a typical food processor dough. But when you pulse the chilled butter into the flour and salt, take it a little further than you’re used to: past the stage of pea-size butter chunks, until it resembles coarse fresh bread…

Bacon, Apple, and Date Flatbreads Serves 4 Total Time: 50 minutes If the dough springs back in step 2, let it rest for a few minutes before trying to roll it again. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil4 ounces (½ cup) mascarpone cheese2 tablespoons warm tap water1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary½ teaspoon table salt, divided½ teaspoon pepper, divided1 pound pizza dough, room temperature6 slices cooked bacon, crumbled2 ounces pitted dates, chopped (⅓ cup)8 ounces fontina cheese, shredded (2 cups)1 red apple, cored, halved, and sliced thin½ cup thinly sliced red onion 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Brush rimmed baking sheet with oil. Combine mascarpone, warm water, rosemary, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. 2. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces.…

THIS DRESSED-UP dinner of pork tenderloin, Bosc pears, and jammy onions employs only one cooking vessel: a 12-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet. But parcooking the components sequentially—browning the pork, caramelizing the pears, and softening the onions—before combining them to finish cooking results in a delicious, well-balanced dish that comes together easily. PORK TENDERLOIN AND PEARS WITH BALSAMIC ONIONS Serves 4 Total Time: 1. hours Be sure to avoid overly ripe pears here, as they will become mushy during cooking. 2¼ teaspoons table salt, divided 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme1 teaspoon ground ginger1 teaspoon granulated garlic¾ teaspoon pepper2 (1- to 1¼-pound) pork tenderloins, trimmed1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil2 ripe but firm Bosc pears, quartered and cored4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided2 red onions, halved and sliced thin¼ cup balsamic vinegar2 tablespoons packed brown…

THE GREEK DIASPORA is an important component of the American melting pot, especially when it comes to food. Whether in Astoria, Queens; Boston; New Orleans; Omaha; Southern California; or Chicago—all areas with large Greek populations—people of Greek heritage have influenced American cuisine by opening countless restaurants and bakeries, adapting their traditional foods to share here. My favorite of these is tiropita. Tiropita—“tiro” means “cheese” and “pita” means “pie”—is a savory cheese pie made with layers of butter-brushed phyllo dough and a soft, flavorful cheese filling. It has several distinct forms: turnover-size triangles, large round or square pies, spirals, and cigar shapes. We zeroed in on the crowd-friendly option: a large square pie thick with tangy cheese. It is tiropita’s flaky phyllo that first catches your eye, but the soul of…

THE BEST MEATBALLS are tender and flavorful—but can be a bit of a project. You need to combine the ingredients, shape the mixture, brown the meatballs, and simmer them in sauce. We wanted to streamline the process for a fast, easy, delicious version for two—so we decided to skip the browning step. In the traditional method, browning the meatballs adds flavor to both the meatballs and the sauce (which you build in the pot after searing and removing the meatballs) and helps ensure that the meatballs keep their shape while simmering in the sauce. When we developed our big-batch recipe for Drop Meatballs (February/March 2018), we found that forgoing the browning actually results in a brighter-tasting sauce and avoids messy stovetop splatter. And even without searing, the meat and its…

WINTER SQUASH PRIMER As soon as fall hits, the produce aisles are brimming with winter squashes in all shapes, sizes, and colors. Here’s a rundown of some of our favorites. –Jessica Rudolph ACORN SQUASH One of the most ubiquitous winter squashes found in supermarkets. Dark green and acorn-shaped with orange flesh, a dense texture, and mild flavor. BUTTERCUP SQUASH A flattened, rounded green squash with pale-green stripes and a circular ridge on the bottom. Flesh that is on the drier side and very mild in flavor. BUTTERNUT SQUASH Immediately recognizable by its bell shape. Tan skin and bright-orange, moist flesh with a sweet, nutty taste. DELICATA SQUASH Oblong and pale yellow with green or orange stripes; thin, edible skin; and creamy flesh that is more earthy than sweet-tasting. HUBBARD SQUASH…

FRYING YOUR THANKSGIVING turkey is a vibe—it sets a mood that says, “I am celebrating this holiday 110 percent, but it’s going to be fun and chill, and we’re going to be outside.” In regard to the finished product, fried-turkey enthusiasts utter a common refrain: “It’s the best turkey I’ve ever had.” They rave about how deep frying produces beautifully browned skin and juicy meat. Having never tried it myself, I was excited by the prospect—but I also imagined it as a daunting, even scary, endeavor. After studying dozens of recipes, I fried my first turkey on Thanksgiving Day in 350-degree oil until the thickest part of the breast registered 160 degrees. It was drastically overcooked. The problem was that while the turkey rested, its temperature kept rising due to…

WHEN ROASTED UNTIL their exterior leaves turn crinkly and brown and their interiors are just slightly softened, sweet and nutty brussels sprouts can’t be beat. Roasting brussels sprouts quickly with a blast of high heat is the way to reach this ideal. Though it might be intimidating, adding brussels sprouts to a baking sheet that has been preheated in a 500-degree oven jump-starts the browning process. (A pair of good, dry oven mitts can help alleviate any worries.) After quickly tossing the sprouts with olive oil, salt, and pepper, simply spread them evenly on the preheated sheet. There’s no need to arrange them with their cut side down, as the hot sheet and high cooking temperature achieve browning all over, with more concentrated browning on the side touching the sheet.…

UMBRIAN-STYLE chickpea soup is a fantastic example of how Italian cooks transform simple ingredients into something wholly satisfying and greater than the sum of its parts. Umbria is one of the few Italian regions without a coastline. That, coupled with its fertile soil, earned it the nickname “cuore verde,” or “green heart.” This region is known for its myriad vegetables including legumes such as lentils and chickpeas, as well as pork, cheeses, olives, wine, and truffles. Chickpeas are the base of a staple soup from the region. To develop our own version of this hearty soup, we cooked through a selection of old and new recipes. The soup is traditionally simple to make but never simple in flavor; it gets its backbone from rendering pancetta in a good amount of…

THIS IRRESISTIBLE SALAD pairs marinated tomatoes with crispy, delightfully irregular croutons and an intriguing olive sauce with warm spices. Consistent year-round, dense, meaty plum tomatoes won’t exude so much juice as to wash out this salad (as globe and many heirloom tomatoes would). Here, their relatively mild flavor is coaxed out and ratcheted up with a little time spent in a simple red wine vinaigrette with lively fresh garlic, spicy chile flakes, and a judicious amount of sugar. Tearing crusty bread into pieces before toasting them until they’re golden brown creates croutons with more surface area and therefore crunchier edges, adding textural intrigue that cubes of bread can’t achieve. When tossed with the marinated tomatoes, the croutons soak up moisture and flavor but remain crisp, giving them that elusive characteristic…

This supremely satisfying combination of greens and couscous falls somewhere between a pilaf and a salad. ISRAELI PEARL COUSCOUS, originally called “p’titim” (meaning “little crumbles” in Hebrew), was invented in Israel in the 1950s when rice became scarce during a recession. Then–Prime Minister David Ben-Gurion pushed manufacturers to create a substitute. But it wasn’t actually called Israeli couscous until 1993 when Tribeca Grill Executive Chef Don Pintabona paired p’titim with sea bass and put it on his menu as “Israeli couscous.” In this one-pan meal, Israeli pearl couscous is paired with boldly flavored chicken. Crisping the chicken skin and then letting the chicken and couscous cook together—unlike Moroccan couscous, pearl couscous needs to simmer on the stovetop to reach its tender yet chewy texture—adds schmaltzy chicken flavor to the dish.…

LARGE CAPACITY: Simply put, we preferred the models that held more spice containers, either by being generally large themselves or making more efficient use of space. Our favorites held at least fifty 4-fluid-ounce spice jars. We also liked models that could fit containers of multiple types and sizes, including tins and larger plastic shakers. EASY ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION: Some models required little to no assembly, but a few of our favorites did call for some setup. In those cases, we liked straightforward instructions and parts that fit together easily so that we could get straight to organizing. STURDY MATERIALS AND DURABILITY: Models made of thick, hardy plastic or metal were durable and strong enough to support heavy glass spice jars without toppling or collapsing. GOOD VISIBILITY: Having a good spice…