Innholdsfortegnelse for December/January 2021 i Cook's Country

We love sweet and tender roasted beets, but you’re right—roasting them can take more than an hour, and then you have to factor in the time for cooling and peeling. Is there a faster way to cook beets? Yes, in the microwave. Simply peel the beets, cut them into pieces (whole beets do not cook efficiently in the microwave), put them in a bowl, and add a bit of water to create steam and prevent the beet chunks from drying out. After microwaving for about 12 minutes, stir the beets and continue to microwave for about 12 minutes or until the beets are perfectly tender. Here’s the recipe. MICROWAVED BEETS Serves 6 Total Time: 50 minutes If you’re using a Pyrex bowl and need to set the hot bowl down,…

AT ITS SIMPLEST, choucroute garnie is a rustic, rib-sticking, country-style dish that puts the focus on the meat. You might not guess it from the name: “Choucroute” means “sauerkraut” in French (the dish has roots in the Alsace region of France). And while there’s plenty of sauerkraut in this dish, it’s not exactly the first thing you see on your plate. Look at those sausage links! Look at that pork! The trick with choucroute garnie is to create a dish that is rich and meaty but not overwhelming. You want clear and present pork flavor, tempered with just enough acidity (from wine and sauerkraut) to keep things in balance. And you want to tie all these flavors together with accents such as thyme, garlic, and caraway. The specific meats and…

CHICKEN BREAST PROS: It’s readily available, relatively inexpensive, tender, quick cooking, and takes well to lots of different seasonings. Chicken breast cons: It’s not exactly packed with flavor, and it can be dry. My goal was to create a fast, easy dish that elevated chicken breasts from “just OK” to “fantastic.” If you’ve ever had a salad topped with sliced chicken breast, you know that the salad dressing does a great job of adding flavor and moisture to this mild cut. I decided to steer my recipe down a similar path by topping simply seared chicken breasts with a vibrant vinaigrette. I started by seasoning four boneless, skinless chicken breasts with salt and pepper and searing them in a little oil in a skillet. I let the cooked chicken rest…

EVERY TIME I visit my local Tex-Mex restaurant, I contemplate ordering several different dishes, but inevitably I hear the familiar, mesmerizing sizzle of fajitas being delivered to a neighboring table. I smell the tantalizing aromas from the searing-hot grilled meat and charred vegetables, and I am overcome with what I like to call “Fajita FOMO” (fear of missing out). I order the fajitas. Restaurants have an advantage with multipart dishes such as fajitas—a team of cooks. There may be a cook at the meat station, a cook overseeing vegetables, and still another responsible for tortillas. But I wanted a weeknight version at home, where it’s just me doing the cooking, and I wanted to use only one pan: my trusty cast-iron skillet. The most challenging part of fajitas is the…

BROCCOLI DOESN’T NEED to be bland or boring. It shouldn’t be overcooked to mush, underseasoned, or gray, either. I wanted to create a broccoli salad that brought out the best in broccoli by highlighting its mildly bitter flavor. My goal was a salad that would be bold; flavorful; and substantial enough to work as a starter, side, or even a main dish. To augment the broccoli’s flavor, I turned to a method we’ve used before with great success—skillet roasting. While moist cooking methods such as boiling or steaming discourage browning and don’t add much flavor, skillet roasting builds deep flavor by using dry, relatively high heat to create tasty char. I found that by fully filling the pan (a nonstick skillet is best here) with florets, usually something we discourage,…

I LOVE A FULLY loaded bagel on a weekend morning. I’m talking a schmear of cream cheese, smoked salmon, sliced onions, briny capers, fresh dill—the whole nine yards. It’s a perfect combination of flavors, so I wanted to bring it to cocktail hour, too. I set my sights on a dip that would highlight the subtle sweet and smoky flavors of the salmon, with a boost from a few complementary ingredients. I started with an 8-ounce block of chilled cream cheese, which I cut into eight pieces. Then, in the food processor, I layered 4 ounces of smoked salmon on top of the cream cheese, added lemon zest and juice, and seasoned it with a twist of freshly ground black pepper (because smoked salmon is already salted, there was no…

MALTED MILK PANCAKES WITH NUTELLA MAPLE SYRUP Serves 4 (Makes twelve 4-inch pancakes) Total Time: 1 hour Do not stir the batter after letting it rest in step 3. Stirring bursts the bubbles created when the baking soda reacts with the buttermilk; these bubbles give the pancakes lift as they cook. The pancakes can be cooked on an electric griddle; set the griddle temperature to 350 degrees and cook the pancakes as directed. This recipe can easily be halved to serve two or doubled to serve a crowd. PANCAKES 1½ cups (7½ ounces) all-purpose flour¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar¼ cup (1⅛ ounces) malted milk powder1 tablespoon baking powder½ teaspoon baking soda1¼ teaspoons table salt1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk2 large eggs4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly1 teaspoon vegetable…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes Serve over basmati rice, sprinkled with fresh cilantro leaves. 1 tablespoon garam masala¾ teaspoon table salt½ teaspoon pepper4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided½ head cauliflower (1 pound), cored and cut into ½-inch florets1 onion, chopped fine2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger3 garlic cloves, minced1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes¼cup heavy cream 1. Combine garam masala, salt, and pepper in small bowl. Toss chicken, 1 tablespoon oil, and 1 tablespoon spice mixture together in medium bowl. 2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add cauliflower and onion and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in ginger, garlic, and remaining spice mixture and cook until fragrant,…

How to Rim a Glass with Salt (or Sugar) Moisten about ½ inch of the glass rim by running a citrus wedge around the outer edge (or by dipping the edge of the glass in a small saucer of water). Spread ½ cup of kosher salt or sugar (for up to four glasses) into an even layer on a small saucer, and then dip the moistened rim in the salt or sugar to coat. How to Garnish with Citrus Zest For a citrus zest twist, use a citrus zester/channel knife to remove a 3- to 4-inch strand of citrus peel, working around the circumference of the fruit in a spiral pattern to ensure a continuous piece. Curl the strand tightly to establish a uniform twist, and then place it directly…

“CHOUCROUTE IS A local dish that everybody kind of puts their own spin on,” says Eric Joppie, culinary director at Olympia Provisions in Portland, Oregon. “I’ve seen big pieces of salt pork, big pieces of smoked bacon, everything from different types of sausages to also having whole pieces of hocks and shanks. I’ve even seen some recipes that contain duck confit or goose fat.” In other words, according to Eric, choucroute garnie is a flexible, elastic, and ultimately personal dish. At Olympia Provisions, it’s even more personal than most, because here the cooks create nearly every ingredient—from the sauerkraut to the cured meats to the butter for the bread that’s served alongside the dish—either in the restaurant itself or at a large facility dubbed the “Meat Plant.” There, employees produce…

RUGELACH, SWEET ROLLED cookies popular in Jewish bakeries around the world, come in at least two distinct variations. The first is built on a yeasted dough and is most often found in Israel and among Mizrahi and Sephardic Jewish communities in many countries. The second is made from a dough that’s highly enriched with cream cheese and is much more common in the United States (see “Backstory”). Both share the same name, rugelach, which is derived from the Yiddish and connotes the idea of a “twist.” I first fell in love with rugelach as a kid, when the bakery attendant at my local grocery store would slip me (and other well-behaved youngsters) a cookie. On lucky days, it would be a chocolate-filled rugelach, the kind made with cream cheese in…

BOLOS LÊVEDOS, AT first glance, look a lot like English muffins. But these Portuguese treats (“bolos” means “cakes,” and “lêvedos” means “yeast”), originally from the Azores, are denser, sweeter, and richer than English muffins, thanks to whole milk, eggs, and butter. To get their classic look, they are cooked on two sides on a dry griddle or skillet. They’re often eaten for breakfast, but they can also be used as burger buns or sandwich bread. Inspired by a visit to Central Bakery, a Portuguese bakery in Tiverton, Rhode Island (see “A Mighty Muffin”), that turns out hundreds of bolos lêvedos a day, I set out to create a small? scale recipe for the home kitchen. After a few experiments with existing recipes, I zeroed in on some techniques we’ve used…

CREAMED SPINACH IS a favorite side dish from fancy white-tablecloth steakhouses to more casual restaurants specializing in Sunday afternoon prime rib specials. I wanted to make this legendary side come alive in my kitchen. To do that would involve zeroing in on a couple things to get this dish just right: verdant spinach flavor and a rich, creamy sauce. Some recipes for creamed spinach call for very complex sauces, but I didn’t want the spinach flavor to be muddied by too many additions, so I chose carefully, including only a handful of complementary ingredients. I’d use pungent garlic; subtly sweet shallot; and Parmesan cheese, which would add its unmistakable umami depth. And I’d use cream, of course. The challenge would lie in how, and when, to include each ingredient. Since…

■ DOUBLE-CRUST CHICKEN POT PIE Serves 6 to 8 Total Time: 2 hours, plus 2¼hours chilling and cooling The pie may seem loose when it comes out of the oven; it will set up as it cools. You can substitute 3 cups of turkey meat for the chicken, if desired. CRUST ½ cup sour cream, chilled1 large egg, lightly beaten2½ cups (12½ ounces) all-purpose flour1½ teaspoons table salt12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled FILLING 4 tablespoons unsalted butter1 onion, chopped fine2 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces (⅔ cup)2 celery ribs, cut into ¼-pieces (½ cup)½ teaspoon table salt½ teaspoon pepper6 tablespoons all-purpose flour2¼ cups chicken broth½ cup half-and-half1 small russet potato (6 ounces), peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces (1 cup)1 teaspoon minced fresh…

WHEN PUREED WITH broth and maybe a bit of cream, roasted butternut squash makes a fantastic, hearty soup—one that’s a little sweet, pleasantly rich and earthy, and deliciously savory. But let’s face it: With the peeling, seeding, and chopping of the hard flesh, butternut squash isn’t the easiest vegetable to prep, and then (if you follow the path of most recipes) you must roast the squash pieces until they’re caramelized and sweet before pureeing them. Beyond that, sometimes you just want enough soup for two people—or even for one person, with a little left over for lunch. We sought an easier and quicker path to a smaller portion of butternut squash soup. Browning pieces of butternut squash makes them taste sweeter and more complex, and it’s a must-do step for…

Our winners Our winner; (ATK also recommends Baker’s Imitation Vanilla Flavor) ATK recommends Argo Double Acting Baking Powder EIGHT KEY INGREDIENTS AND HOW TO STORE THEM 1 UNSALTED BUTTER When baking cookies, we reach for unsalted butter. The sodium level of salted butter can vary, and we prefer to control the seasoning of our cookies. Plus, salted butter almost always contains more water than unsalted butter, which can interfere with gluten development. Store: Butter can pick up off-flavors when it’s refrigerated for longer than a month, and it can turn rancid as its fat oxidizes. For longer storage (up to four months), move it to the freezer. 2 COCOA POWDER When we want big chocolate flavor, we turn to cocoa powder, which has a higher proportion of flavorful cocoa solids,…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes Pecorino Romano cheese can be substituted for the Parmesan. 3 cups water¾ cup instant polenta2½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1¼cups), divided½ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped coarse1 teaspoon table salt, divided½ teaspoon pepper, divided5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces1 garlic clove, minced¼teaspoon red pepper flakes4 large eggs 1. Adjust oven rack 4 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Bring water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Whisk in polenta; reduce heat to medium-low; and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 cup Parmesan, tomatoes, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cover to keep warm. 2. Brush rimmed baking sheet with 1 tablespoon oil. Toss broccoli rabe, garlic,…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes Sirloin steak tips, also known as flap meat, can be sold as whole steaks, cubes, and strips. To ensure uniform pieces, we prefer to purchase whole steaks and cut them ourselves. 1½ pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces1 teaspoon table salt, divided¾ teaspoon pepper, divided2 tablespoons vegetable oil¾ cup plain yogurt3 ounces Stilton cheese, crumbled (¾ cup), divided1 garlic clove, minced1 teaspoon red wine vinegar1 head iceberg lettuce (9 ounces), cored and cut into 8 wedges10 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved4 slices cooked bacon, crumbled into ½-inch pieces2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 1. Pat steak dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¾ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes One large or two small bunches of basil will yield the ½ cup needed here. ¼cup table salt for brining2 pounds shell-on jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per pound)6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided3 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin2 garlic cloves, minced1 teaspoon fennel seeds½ teaspoon red pepper flakes½ small head napa cabbage, cored and sliced thin3 oranges, peeled, quartered, and sliced crosswise ½ inch thick½ cup shredded fresh basil1 tablespoon cider vinegar¼teaspoon table salt 1. Dissolve ¼ cup salt in 1 quart cold water in large container. Using kitchen shears, cut through shells of shrimp; devein shrimp but do not remove shell. Using paring knife, cut ½-inch-deep slit in each shrimp along vein line, taking care not to cut…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes You can substitute spaghetti or linguine for the bucatini. 2 ounces pancetta, cut into ½-inch pieces2 garlic cloves, minced1 tablespoon grated lemon zest, divided½ cup dry white wine2½ cups water2 cups chicken broth1 pound bucatini½ cup panko bread crumbs1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil⅛ teaspoon table salt⅛ teaspoon pepper1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup), divided5 ounces (5 cups) baby kale1 cup frozen peas 1. Cook pancetta in Dutch oven over medium heat until crispy, 6 to 8 minutes; using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to paper towel–lined plate. Add garlic and 2 teaspoons lemon zest to fat left in pot and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in…

The difference between steel-cut oats and old-fashioned (“rolled”) oats lies in the manufacturing process. Steel-cut oats are full oat groats (whole oat kernels with the hull, or outer shell, removed) sliced into small pieces with steel blades. This leaves much of the kernel intact and helps give steel-cut oats their signature chewy texture. Rolled oats are oat kernels that have been steamed and flattened using large disks, which makes the oats thin, flaky, soft, and able to readily absorb liquid. Quick-cooking and instant oats are processed the same way that rolled oats are, but they are rolled thinner and are sometimes precooked and then dried so that they cook even more quickly. Because steel-cut oats are physically more dense, they require more liquid during cooking and typically take about 25…

ATK REVIEWS WE LOVE LARGE plastic cutting boards because they’re inexpensive, relatively lightweight, and easy to clean and maneuver; unlike wood or bamboo cutting boards, they require no maintenance. We had never devoted an entire review solely to these practical boards, so we bought seven models, priced from about $19 to about $70, and used them as we chopped onions, minced parsley, pounded chicken breasts, and cleaved chicken parts for stock. We also washed each model by hand or in the dishwasher 50 times. In the end, we found that the best large plastic cutting board for most home cooks is the Winco Statik Board Cutting Board 15" x 20" x ½". This utilitarian board is about ½ inch thick, so it didn’t flex or bounce during use, and it…

FOR ME, THE appeal of orange chicken is undeniable. Crispy fried bits of juicy boneless chicken tossed in a vibrant, sweet-sour, slightly spicy orange sauce—what’s not to like? According to Panda Express cofounder Andrew Cherng, orange chicken was invented by chef Andy Kao in Hawaii in 1987. The layers of flavor that permeated the satisfying dish have made it a favorite ever since. On a recent evening in my tiny kitchen, I looked around halfway through cooking a batch of orange chicken and found that I’d used nearly every mixing bowl in my cupboard and covered the entirety of my limited counter space with prep equipment and cornstarch—and I hadn’t even begun to fry. The end product—savory pieces of chicken tossed in a beautifully complex citrus sauce—tasted really good, but…

The family tree of rolled pastries in the European tradition sprawls from French croissants to Viennese kipfel. Rugelach share roots with some of these treats, but according to food writer Tami Ganeles Weiser, the style of rugelach most common in the United States—made with a nonyeasted dough built on rich cream cheese—is a relatively new American twist. As she writes in Tablet magazine, “… the creation of rugelach, as we know them today—cookies made from yeast-free dough, rather than yeasted pastries—happened in the United States, less than a century ago, as a result of the commercialization of one of its key ingredients: cream cheese.” Cream cheese was first developed commercially in the United States in the late 19th century, when dairies proliferated across the Northeast (especially in New York, New…

IMAGINE A ONE-POT shrimp pasta dish: a cross between a garlicky scampi and a zippy, lemony piccata, with a little bit of creamy sauce tossed in for good measure. That’s what I was craving when I started work on this recipe. I wanted tender, succulent shrimp (they easily turn rubbery if they’re overcooked) and lots of rich, silky sauce balanced with just enough vibrant lemon and briny capers. The sauce needed to be fully flavored with garlic and white wine, but it also needed to support (not upstage) the star of the show: the shrimp. You see, I love shrimp. I grew up in coastal South Carolina eating shrimp for dinner that had been caught on day boats that very morning. Those shrimp boils were my favorite meals of the…

CHICKEN AND POTATOES are a classic pair: humble and hearty, with lots of room for gussying up. Here I was after a simple one-pan chicken and potato dish with deep flavor. I chose bone-in chicken thighs, a great cut for braising because they stay juicy and tender while rendering plenty of flavorful fat (which would deeply flavor the potatoes). I first browned the chicken, starting the thighs skin side down in a cold nonstick skillet to gently render the fat and get the skin golden and crispy. Then I removed the chicken and browned some potatoes (halved small, waxy potatoes held up best) in the rendered fat left in the skillet. added halved shallots for their subtle sweetness, along with garlic and thyme for depth. Just a cup of liquid…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes If there’s not enough brine in the kimchi jar to yield ¼ cup, add water to compensate. Make sure to use firm (not soft) tofu here. 1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef½ teaspoon table salt½ teaspoon pepper1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger½ cup mirin3 cups water3 cups kimchi, drained with ¼cup brine reserved, chopped coarse2 cups chicken broth8 ounces firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes2 tablespoons soy sauce4 scallions, sliced thin1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil 1. Combine beef, salt, and pepper in Dutch oven; cook over medium-high heat, breaking up meat with wooden spoon, until moisture evaporates and beef begins to sizzle, 8 to 10 minutes. 2. Add ginger and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in mirin, scraping up any browned bits.…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes Use the large holes of a box grater to shred the carrots. 4 (10- to 12-ounce) bone-in split chicken breasts, trimmed and pounded to ¾-inch thickness1½ teaspoons table salt, divided1 teaspoon pepper, divided1 pound carrots, shredded1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed3 ounces feta cheese, cut into ½-inch pieces (¾ cup)2 oranges, peeled and segmented2 tablespoons harissa2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon lemon juice 1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and sprinkle with ¾ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Place chicken, skin side down, in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cover skillet and place over medium heat. Cook chicken, without moving it, until skin is light golden brown, about 15 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, combine carrots, chickpeas, feta, oranges, harissa, mint, oil, lemon…

Serves 4 Total Time: 30 minutes Top these tostadas with fresh cilantro leaves and crumbled queso fresco. 1 (14-ounce) bag green coleslaw mix1 tablespoon minced jarred jalapenos, plus ¼ cup brine, divided¾ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon table salt, divided⅓ cup sour cream3 tablespoons lime juice (2 limes), divided1 tablespoon vegetable oil3 cups frozen corn, thawed8 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, halved lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick6 ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed¼ cup chicken broth12 (6-inch) corn tostadas 1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions; heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine coleslaw, 3 tablespoons jalapeño brine, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. Combine sour cream, 2 tablespoons lime juice, and ⅛ teaspoon salt in second bowl; set aside slaw and crema. 2. Heat oil in…