Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2019 i Bon Appetit

HAVING FRIENDS AND FAMILY AT home for the annual feast is one of the warmest times of the year. What could be better than catching up with your favorite people over comfort food? But, accommodating out-of-towners for the long haul comes with its own set of challenges besides getting ready for the main event—like those breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and snacks to serve guests along the way. You’ll have to stock up for additional meals, and also make sure you have the right tools and appliances at the ready to help you prep for perfection. Find every ingredient for entertaining throughout Thanksgiving weekend and more at homedepot.com/decor. Shop HOMEDEPOT.COM/DECOR…

The Other 29 Days In anticipation of stuffing, mashed potatoes, and “just a sliver” of every pie on the table come Thanksgiving Day, we like to keep dinner laid-back for the rest of the month with a few smart strategies: Embrace seasonal produce (this soup is our current favorite way to eat sweet potatoes). Skip the meat every so often (you won’t miss it in the larb on p. 20). And when in doubt, make a double batch of the jolting citrus-chile sauce on p.22 for a welcome respite from butter and gravy. Feel-Better Chicken and Rice Soup Bring 12 oz. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, 4 thinly sliced garlic cloves, one 2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced, ? cup jasmine rice, rinsed, and 5 cups water to a boil in…

1. For the Proudly Unconventional Some people don’t serve turkey. Maybe it’s a deer they hunted or a fish they got at the market or suddenly they’re vegan. Who’s to say? A skin-contact white wine can handle it all—with acidity for lighter entrées and the tannic structure to stand up to bolder dishes. Vino di Anna Palmento Bianco 2. For the In-Laws You Want to Wow Burgundy Pinot Noir will pair with everything your (fingers crossed) future in-laws serve. They’ll know the region and grape; you’ll know you can get it without shelling out the big bucks. New Burgundy producers sell equally expressive yet feasible versions (think $30–$40). Maison en Belles Lies Maranges Rouge 3. For the Full-Family Feast Your loud whole-family Thanksgiving will be filled with watery Pinot Grigios…

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The Mold Never Gets Old… This is your once-yearly chance to dust off that gelatin mold you inherited from Great-Uncle Albert (he was into suspended fruit salads, so what?). But beware a mold that’s very intricate—too many little nooks and crannies and indentations will make it more difficult for the jelly to slide out. Lacking a Great-Uncle Albert? Sorry to hear it. The best molds are vintage, so peruse Etsy until you find the shape of your dreams. Yes, French ice cream molds will also work—thanks for asking. And before pouring in your cranberry mixture, don’t forget to coat the tin with nonstick spray. FACE - OFF SMOOTH VS TEXTURED Brad prefers a smoother bite, so he tried a version that put the cranberry mixture through a food mill. But…

The heavenly toasted pecan topping is candied with brown sugar, butter, maple syrup, and salt. Go ahead and use it to top all desserts from now on. Started From the Libby’s Can, Now We’re Here Claire and Brad began with the classic Libby’s pumpkin pie recipe straight off the label. From there they upped the eggs for a richer custard, DIY’d their own pumpkin pie spice mix, and swapped in heavy cream for the evaporated milk. And, yeah, the whiskey. THE TOOL IMMERSION BLENDER We use an immersion blender to mix the custard filling—eggs, pumpkin, everything at once—because it’s fast, easy, and thorough. (Don’t have one? Don’t worry, a regular blender will get the job done too.) EXTRA DARK Your crust isn’t burning! The rye flour will make the crust…

Coconut Creamed Greens Whereas some creamed greens can get boring after two bites, these are impossible to stop eating. The greens maintain a bit of bite, and toasted coconut offers crunchy relief. p.92 Charred Sweet Potatoes With Hot Honey Butter and Lime When you mix hot sauce with butter, it turns into a spicy, creamy spread that’s perfect for melting atop burnished sweet potato halves, bringing them to life. p.92 RESPECTING TRADITION is not the same thing as serving the same dishes year after year after year. Thanksgiving is a dinner party, not an episode of Russian Doll. So this time, we’re ditching all those so-so sides whose only real selling point is: “We’ve been making this since the ’80s!” Instead, we’re serving coconutty creamed greens, spicy charred sweet potatoes,…

WHEN YOU WORK AT A FOOD MAGAZINE, Thanksgiving is your Groundhog Day. Same holiday every year. Gotta have turkey on the cover, and there better be mashed potatoes and gravy and stuffing and cranberry sauce and some sort of side that feels new but not, you know, too new. That last part, I guess you could say, is the mission for each November issue: Reinvent something that no one really wants reinvented. At BA we start percolating ideas in July, ensuring we have enough time to develop recipes, stage photo shoots, and get the whole thing to the printer and to your mailbox in time for you to start percolating. But this year, before we could sit down at some oversize conference table to debate russets versus Yukon Golds (hint,…

The 101 BUYING Shallots should feel heavy for their size and firm with dry, papery skins. Avoid any that are sprouted or have soft spots. STORING Kept in a cool, dark, and dry place (a.k.a. not in the fridge, where moisture lives), shallots will stay good for weeks. What’s the difference between a shallot and, like, a yellow onion? Shallots have a delicate and sweet flavor with a hint of sharpness, while onions bring a more intense heat. You can substitute shallots in nearly any recipe that calls for onions—just make sure you’re using the same volume. (For example, several medium shallots equals about one small yellow onion.) Why We Love: Fried Shallots Fried shallots are enjoyed across Southeast Asia as an all-purpose topper. We love Maesri brand, which is…

YOUR OLD-SCHOOL uncle only drinks big-name Italian wines. Your hipster cousin wants something she’s never had before. Mom is asking for a drink that’s sweet (but not too sweet!), and Grandma needs something to settle her stomach. Spoiler alert: Everyone at the table wants Barolo Chinato. This Piedmont wine variety is made by infusing Barolo with dried herbs, barks, and roots. The result is a sweet, spicy, vegetal wine that could just as easily be mistaken for vermouth as it could amaro. In true digestivo fashion, all you need are some glasses, ice (drop a single cube or drink it neat), and the bottle. No fuss. You already did enough of that with the meal. THREE OTHER BOTTLES TO BUY Cappellano Barolo Chinato, $70 Barale Fratelli Barolo Chinato, $42 Cocchi…

EVERYONE WANTS TO come to Nashville these days. On the hunt for hot chicken? We had it before anyone else (I see you, L.A.). Need a “Last Bash in Nash” T-shirt for a bachelorette party? We’re stocked to the gills. But while downtown’s honky-tonks are filled with tourists, I’m headed across the river to East Nashville. The onetime industrial wasteland has morphed into the kind of place where you’ll find competing ramen shops, ultra-hipster coffee snobs, and all the locals. Ever since the iconic Margot Café opened in 2001, the east side has changed for the better, and this newer crew of restaurants and bars continues that trend, cementing East Nashville’s status as the city’s most delicious neighborhood. The Kinda-Sorta-Southern Stunner The running joke for the past decade is that…

I got a great little BYOB spot: Corto in Jersey City. Everything on the Italian-inspired menu—the amazing meat-and-cheese plate, freshly made pastas, perfectly tender octopus over beans—is fantastic. Haven’t had a just-okay dish yet. These young folks know what they’re doing. on The T-Shirt That Makes Him Hungry THERE’S RESTAURANT merch you’d like to have. And there’s restaurant merch you need to have. For me, everything at Philadelphia’s premier sandwich shop Middle Child falls in the latter category, starting with this rad T-shirt. Chef and co-owner Matt Cahn tapped local artist Eric Kenney for the illustration and Press & Release Printing to make it. The shirt ($30) is sold only at the shop, and it’s as essential as a sandwich order. That’s because wearing it is a declaration that you’re…

This Year Break Out the Baking Sheet High-sided roasting pans keep the heat from directly hitting the turkey, causing some areas to brown more than others and increasing cook time. So we followed a trick that food stylists use for a beautifully browned bird by roasting on a wire rack set inside a baking sheet, which lets air circulate underneath for that crucial crispy skin. HOW TO TAKE THE TURKEY’S TEMPERATURE Each piece has an ideal temp: Look for 150° for white meat and 170° for dark. Start with the thickest part of the thigh, directing the thermometer down. Then get into the center of the breast by inserting the tip of the thermometer horizontally from the neck end, aiming for the meatiest part of the breast. Then go in…

Roast the squash a day before, chill, and reheat in the microwave or leave at room temp when serving. Meet the 898 This palm-size squash, a new cousin of the beloved honeynut developed by vegetable breeder–mad genius Michael Mazourek, tastes like a turbocharged butternut, making you question every squash you’ve ever had before. It’s now rolling out at farmers markets, select grocery stores, and online grocers across the country. FACE - OFF DRIED FRUIT VS FRESH FRUIT Christina and Claire knew they wanted to add sweetness to the salad, but how? Dried cherries and apricots were early contenders (they’re easy to find and always in season), but Asian pear won out. The dried fruit was chewy; the pear was juicy, a better counterbalance to the other ingredients. Halve Not Your…

Add a splash of soy sauce to your gravy for a JOLT of UMAMI. Season your turkey a full day ahead and let it chill uncovered in the fridge for peak crispy skin. Eat the pie around a big bonfire. (That’s right! This year we’re going camping.) Open the door to the room where all the kids are playing Fortnite and meet your new team of dishwashers. Get your knives sharpened at the hardware store. Make desserts a day ahead to free up your oven (and miiind). Be specific instead of just asking, “Can I do anything?” Volunteer to take the trash out. Or grab extra chairs. Or track down Uncle Frank, who appears to have gone missing. Keep the turkey carcass. It’s the literal backbone of the best use…

STEP-BY-STEPS TIPS & TRICKS 1 High Heat + Plenty of Fat = A Winning Combination If you “don’t like” mushrooms, it’s probably because you think they’re limp, squishy, spongy, and/or bland. It doesn’t need to be that way. By using a hot pan and more fat than seems necessary, you can give them a good sear, drive off the water (mushrooms are 80–90 percent H2O), concentrate flavor, and get lots of crispy bits. Our entry-level, hater-converting method goes like this: Preheat a big heavy pan, add glugs of oil (mushrooms will absorb a little drizzle in no time) and, when it’s hot, the torn or sliced mushrooms in a single layer. This maximizes pan-to-’shroom contact. Let them cook—undisturbed!—until golden brown (not gray), then season with salt and cook until the…

The Long Game Laying out a striking table runner is the unspoken way to tell your guests that this is not just another meal—it’s Thanksgiving Top It Off Looking for ways to treat your runner right? These luxe-yetpractical accessories will secure your tablescape’s place among the greats A TALL ASK Colorfully tinted candlestick holders capture the vibe of an intimate family dinner regardless of how long the guest list may be. Rainbow Candle Holder, from $55; hawkinsnewyork.com ASSIGNED SEATING These place card holders (and the seating chart they imply) encourage guests to enjoy plenty of conversation without the family conflicts. Geo Stands, $88 for set of three; yielddesign.co A LITTLE SALTY An ample supply of salt cellars tastefully elevates your dinner spread and reduces the number of times you’ll have…

Kick Things Off With a Cocktail LAIRD’S APPLEJACK is the kind of holdover you just don’t see anymore. But that’s only because people forget. The inimitable apple brandy is something I reach for when fall rolls around. Here we’re going to make some sours for an all-time best Thanksgiving pregame. They’ve got the apple, citrus, maple, and baking spice notes of the season with enough refreshment and punch to chill any remarks from combative relatives. Applejack Sour Combine 2 oz. applejack (preferably Laird’s), ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice, ½ oz. fresh orange juice, ½ oz. pure maple syrup, and 2 dashes of Angostura bitters in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake until outside of shaker is frosty, about 20 seconds. Strain into a glass; sprinkle with freshly grated nutmeg.…

EVEN IF you love Thanksgiving, you’ve gotta admit, it’s a real to-do. But you know what’s not a to-do? Leftovers Day, the secondbest food holiday of the year. Held one to three days after Thanksgiving, Leftovers Day is…the day you eat all your leftovers. It’s a great way to ensure you aren’t stuck with a spoonful of stuffing or weird turkey parts in a ziplock bag that someone (me) can’t bring themselves to part with. My favorite way to celebrate is with other people, everyone gathered under one roof to clean out fridges and compare stuffings. Think of it as a Friendsgiving but without having to roast another turkey. This holiday can be as low-maintenance as opening a few plastic containers and drinking the rest of the wine you overbought,…

CRISPY ITALIAN SAUSAGE, ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, AND SQUASH WITH HOT MAPLE SAUCE 1 12.95 oz. package Field Roast Italian Sausage, thinly sliced12 oz. brussels sprouts, halved¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil1½ lbs. butternut squash, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced1 red onion, peeled and cut into ½" wedges¼ cup maple syrup2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar1 serrano pepper, thinly sliced½ tsp. Aleppo-style pepper, plus more for serving¼ cup mint leaves, plus more for serving Preheat oven to 425°. Toss brussels sprouts and sausage with 2 Tbsp. oil on a baking sheet. On another baking sheet, toss squash and onion with remaining oil. Season with salt and pepper; spread into an even layer. Roast, tossing once, until golden and tender, 25–30 minutes for brussels sprouts and sausage, and 35–40 minutes for squash and onion.…

ERIKA: When we decided to have a baby, we were both working full-time at White Gold, the butcher shop we ran in New York City. JOCELYN: As in 12 to 18 hours a day. EN: When you’re running on two hours of sleep every night, it feels like you’re tripping on acid and the world is melting. And it’s not just us. That’s what this industry is like. JG: The problem is, people don’t treat restaurant work like a career. There’s no 401(k) matching. No management training. And then we ask, “Why do people no-show?” ’Cause you don’t treat them like they have a real job! EN: We decided to start our business the same week I got pregnant: J&E SmallGoods, a small-batch sausage company (jesmallgoods.com). Right now it’s just…

You want flavor-packed gravy? You gotta earn it. Homemade turkey stock gets big bonus points. Get the recipe at bonappetit.com/turkeystock. To introduce some texture we added a crunchy, smoky breadcrumb-and-potato-chip topping, inspired by the flavors of patatas bravas. We ate it like fiends during testing. Roast Your Potatoes Before Mashing Want your mashed potatoes to taste like potatoes? Roasting them intensifies their earthy and malty qualities, and helps the flesh achieve a fluffy, moist texture. “You know, a Maillard reaction is happening in there,” said Molly, celebrated potato scientist. Maillard, as in the chemical jamboree that happens when sugars in foods rearrange in the oven, causing browning. Boiling, which yields tender but relatively bland potatoes, just doesn’t compare. DO IT AHEAD These are extra-velvety mashed potatoes with a light body…

The Case for Homemade Cornbread While you can absolutely use store-bought, we prefer to make our own cornbread. Why? Well, we have some control issues. Homemade means you get to choose the ratio of cornmeal to flour (we keep it 50:50 for flavor and sturdiness, though cornmeal superfan Rick goes as far as 70:30), adjust the sweetness, and add buttermilk for tang and tenderness. Last year Molly developed a recipe for cornbread specifically intended for stuffing. How convenient! (Find it at bonappetit.com/cornbread.) Some stuffing recipes call for stale bread, but we prefer to toast our cornbread low and slow in the oven so it gets crunchy browned edges and a nice roasty flavor. MORE IS MORE We crammed in as much sausage, stock, and aromatics as we could fit—the cornbread…

“I know now that Thanksgiving wasn’t a nice party with pilgrims on one side and Natives on the other.” HILLEL ECHO-HAWK Pawnee and Athabaskan, Seattle Owner of Birch Basket I GREW UP WITH A really big family in a very small town in Alaska. My mom is Irish and my dad is Pawnee. We always had Thanksgiving at our evangelical church. Turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, pumpkin pie. People would dress up as Indians and pilgrims. It was weird. As a kid I wanted to be the pilgrim. Indians didn’t have the good story. They were the supporting characters, not the stars. They were scary. It never occurred to me that there could be another way. Six years ago I read an article online about the real history of Thanksgiving, including…

At what age does one officially graduate from the kids’ table (asking for a 31-year-old friend)? —ELDERLY ELAINE The kids’ table is way more fun than what’s going down at the adult table, which is an encyclopedic rundown of cousin Arnold’s last five podiatrist appointments. But I get it. Respect. Did you help prepare a dish or do Cinderella-level floor cleaning? Do you file your own taxes? ONLY THEN do you get permission to dine among the elders. We do Thanksgiving potluck-style, but I don’t have time to cook anything. What can I bring (besides wine) to show that I am trying? –AT-LEAST-SHE-TRIED ADRIANA How about: •Compostable plates•Scratch-off lottery tickets•Ice•Pepto-Bismol•Bounty select-a-size paper towels•That book you borrowed from me in 2012•Grandma•Glad Deep Dish storage containers for leftovers What should I do…