Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2019 i Bon Appetit

The 101 BUYING Local fresh corn is sweetest (white, yellow, and bicolored are equally good). Pick heavy ears with tight green husks and glossy silk. Feel (don’t peel!) for gapless rows of fat kernels. STORING Corn starts to lose its sugars the minute it’s picked (which is why local is best), so plan to eat it soon—day of, if possible. Keep any unhusked ears in a plastic bag in the fridge and consume within three days. HOW TO CUT THE KERNELS (and not lose a finger!) Lay a shucked ear on your cutting board, then use a sharp knife to zip off a strip of kernels, creating a flat side. Roll the cob onto that flat side and continue to slice off kernels until you’ve gotten all the way around.…

SEPTEMBER 24–29, 2019 Millennium Park, Chicago 250 CHEFS•50 SOMMELIERS, MIXOLOGISTS & EXPERTS•175 VINTNERS, DISTILLERS & BREWERS•GRAND TASTINGS•DEMOS & SEMINARS•BOOK SIGNINGS BOFFO MOVIE-, TV-& THEATER-INSPIRED CULINARY EVENTS TITLE SPONSOR Bon Appétit PRESENTING SPONSOR Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Illinois FOUNDER Illinois Restaurant Association SUPPORTINGS PONSORS Choose Chicago AMERICAN EXPRESS Chairman’s Reserve Premium Meats UnitedHealthcare Constellation Brands JCDecaux Stella Artois Mariano’s Moët Hennessy USA US Foods South Walton, Florida Gordon Food Service Volpi Château D’ESCLANS Hyatt Regency, Chicago Evian Wintrust Financial Beam Suntory Barilla Thai SELECT RX Nut Butter Illinois Pork Producers Association PureCircle Pernod Ricard USA Bacardi USA Samuel Adams Brewing the American Dream Gibsons Restaurant Group Loacker Sioux Honey Association Co-Op The Langham, Chicago Buckhead Meat of Chicago Supreme Lobster & Seafood Company Martin’s Famous Potato Rolls and Bread…

IN A RANKING OF HUMANKIND’S GREATEST inventions, margaritas (refreshing and bright, boozy and cooling) and pies (homey, sweet, and decadent) are high on the list. And when these two Good Things combine to form one Very Good Thing, we get Frozen Margarita Pie. It’s tangy with citrus, spiked with tequila, and—thanks to the magical combination of sweetened condensed milk, whipped cream, and alcohol—light and mousse-y, with never an ice crystal in sight. Imagine a Key lime pie that collided with an icebox cake, then ordered a few drinks at the bar. We call it our do-it-all summer dessert because you can make it in advance, stow it in the freezer, and forget about it while you cook the rest of your August feast. And since it’s no-churn ice cream inside…

Creative Director MICHELE OUTLAND I’m stocking up on these pretty rose-patterned melamine plates I spotted at John Derian in NYC because they’re sweet and delightful. But also because they’re a mere $9 apiece (johnderian.com), which as design nerds know is a steal. So this summer I’ll throw them in my tote bag, head out to the beach, and picnic in style. Who needs disposables? Deputy Editor JULIA KRAMER on The Lunch We All Deserve Every day that I eat some wilting salad at my desk, I ponder an alternate life where I’m sauntering over to the Chophouse Row complex in Seattle’s Capitol Hill and scribbling my name on the sign-up sheet at By Tae. Here, easygoing chef Sun Hong hosts three seatings at eight counter stools for his casual lunch-only…

New-and-Improved Greek Salad 4 SERVINGS The method for marinating the feta in this salad is also a good trick for other fresh cheeses—try goat, mozzarella, or paneer. ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 small lemon, thinly sliced into rounds, seeds removed8 oz. feta1 Tbsp. chopped oregano Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper4 Jimmy Nardello or other sweet Italian frying peppers1 small red onion, very thinly sliced1 large Japanese or Armenian cucumber or 2 medium Persian cucumbers, peeled, cut into 1½" pieces1 lb. small tomatoes (such as Sun Gold and/or cherry), some halved, some left whole2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar Heat ¼ cup oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add lemon slices and cook until lightly charred around the edges, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer lemon slices to a medium bowl.…

Simple? It’s Complicated IF IT WERE UP TO ME, every issue of Bon Appétit would be the Simple Issue. Select choice ingredients, futz with them as little as possible, season well with salt and pepper, and use a generous hand with the olive oil. And as editor in chief of this magazine, I suppose it is up to me. But have you ever tried to tell Andy Baraghani what to cook? Found yourself entrenched in a recipe argument with Carla Lalli Music? Been stared down by Julia Kramer when she doesn’t agree with you and gives you that disapproving you-gotta-be-kidding-me look? A big reason why BA has remained so strong these past several years is because of all the strong personalities who work here. If you ask for someone’s opinion,…

When the produce is this flawless (thank you, August!), dinner inspiration is never far off. Blistered summer beans get a jolt of umami from a swipe of sunny miso butter. A quickly seared steak becomes a vibrant salad with an assist from sweet corn, crunchy cukes, and your new favorite vinaigrette. Need more ideas? We thought you’d never ask Skillet-Charred Summer Beans with Miso Butter Mix 4 Tbsp. room-temperature unsalted butter, 2 Tbsp. white miso, ½ serrano chile, finely grated, and one ½" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated, in a small bowl until smooth. Heat a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high. Toss 12 oz. green, Romano, and/or wax beans with 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a medium bowl, then transfer to skillet and cook, tossing occasionally, until…

YOU COULD technically refer to a shandy as a beer cocktail. And while this wouldn’t be wrong, making one takes about as much effort as cracking a beer. A shandy, loosely defined as beer poured over ice and topped with a tart-sweet mixer, is a gloriously unfussy drink. It’s all about honoring the tenets of summer, which include consuming alcohol and quenching thirst—ideally simultaneously. If the thought of drinking beer on ice horrifies you, lest the dilution degrade the integrity of the brew or whatever, know that I‘m talking about using the cheap stuff, not some hopped-up IPA or chocolaty stout. The shandy is especially friendly for hot-weather gatherings that last well into the evening since it’s the kind of low-ABV all-day sipper that keeps you in check (and, uh,…

Big in Japan American cocktail bars have been taking a hint from Tokyo Tokyo earned its place as a cocktail capital with its perfectionist bars (yes, that diamond-shaped ice cube is hand-carved) and rowdy drinking dens brimming with sours and salarymen. And then, of course, that cocktail culture hopped the Pacific. At first that meant opening carbon copies in the U.S., complete with the same chill jazz you heard on the speakers. Now that means bars that are truly Japanese-American, where cherry blossoms garnish martinis and katsu sandos are stuffed with mortadella. And we’ll kanpai to that. 1 NOT LOST IN TRANSLATION Kenta Goto—the man behind NYC’s Bar Goto and one of the movement’s pioneers—on sharing his homeland’s cocktail culture with an American audience Why this bar, why here? “I’m…

The Ice Shaved ice makes halo-halo a summer staple. “It’s hot and humid for most of the year in the Philippines,” says Boquila, who lived there until he was eight. “So the ice is there to cool you off.” It also balances out the sweetness of the dish. The Ube The crowning touch is a scoop of roasted, puréed ube—a sweet, starchy potato. “This is everyone’s favorite part,” Boquila says, but he warns guests not to eat it straight off the top. “You have to stir it all together to make sure you get a little bit of everything in each bite.” The Milk Traditionally, the shaved ice gets drizzled with sweetened condensed milk, but Boquila adds evaporated milk in a 50/50 ratio to ease up on the sugar. The…

HAM + CHEESE + BAGUETTE Optimal Beach Sandwich To be clear, we’re talking the good stuff—prosciutto cotto, sliced real thin, with Comté or Gruyère and a swipe of butter. 5 Things You Have to Do Before Summer Ends 1. Eat a peach over the sink 2. Carry sugar snap peas in your pockets 3. Have dinner in a bathing suit 4. Admit you got sick of tomatoes 5. Pee in the ocean How long perishable food can sit out at your picnic ≤ 2 Hours according to the USDA ≤ 3 Hours according to Carla Lalli Music How long to let that steak rest while you set the table and refill the wine ~10 min. Cookout Pyramid 3 Ingredients, So Many Options 6 Mint-Sprinkling Moments 1. On grilled fish 2.…

Small Tomatoes Cook thin-skinned Sun Golds and cherry tomatoes until just burst and serve tossed with pasta or over fish. Heirlooms These (pricey) beauties want to be seen—save them for salads, capreses, and topping your toasts. Beefsteaks Ideal for tucking into a burger or sandwich. And they have plenty of flesh that lends body to red sauce.…

SHOPPING LIST QUICK + SIMPLE = SUMMER pp. 50–67 P. 55 SHALLOW RYMAN DINNER BOWL, $60; mondaysbk.com P. 56 SMALL PORCELAIN BOWL (with sauce), $22; mondaysbk.com P. 56 DINNER BOWL IN SAND (with potatoes), $48; mondaysbk.com P. 61 DINNER BOWL IN SAND (with cabbage), $48; mondaysbk.com RIPE & READY pp. 80–89 P. 80 14" CHARCOAL FLARED BOWL, $169; terrafirmaceramics.com P. 83 PLATE BY LEN CARELLA (similar), from $285; spartan-shop.com TRAVEL PLANNER AWAY pp. 37–48 BAR GOTO 245 Eldridge St., NYC; 212-475-4411; bargoto.com BAR MOGA 128 W. Houston St., NYC; 929-399-5853; barmoga.com BESHARAM 1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco; 415-580-7662; besharamrestaurant.com THE BOMBAY BREAD BAR 195 Spring St., NYC; 212-235-1098; thebombaybreadbar.com BY TAE 1424 11th Ave., Seattle; facebook.com/bytaeseattle COOK OUT For locations, go to cookout.com DOMO-ALLEY GATO 1600 E. Sixth St., Austin;…

Green Goddess Crunch Sandwich A salad between two slices of bread! This picnic-ready meal has major California vibes, with an herby yogurt smear, tons of feel-good sprouts, and buttery avocado RECIPE BY ANDY BARAGHANI MAKES 2 ¼ cup basil¼ cup chopped chives¼ cup mayonnaise¼ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling1 lemon, halved, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper¼ English hothouse cucumber, thinly sliced4 slices multigrain bread1 avocado, thinly sliced8 oz. mozzarella, sliced ¼" thick2 cups sprouts (such as alfalfa or broccoli) 1. Place basil, chives, mayonnaise, yogurt, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a blender. Finely grate in zest from a lemon half, then squeeze in its juice. Purée until smooth; season dressing with salt and pepper. 2. Place cucumber in a small bowl;…

MY APARTMENT is small—and my kitchen is smaller—but this has never stopped me from throwing dinner parties as often as the people I live with can tolerate. Having friends over gives me a chance to experiment with cooking ambitious dishes for a more-receptive-than-usual audience (i.e., humans other than my kids). But feeding a group of people is never as simple as putting out food and expecting everyone to happily demolish it. Between picky kids and picky adults, food allergies and special diets, there’s always going to be someone who can’t eat spicy foods and someone else who’s avoiding meat/gluten/dairy/all of the above. So how to feed a crowd so everyone leaves happy? I start with mounds of pillowy homemade hummus, which makes a fantastic foundation for an epic late-summer feast.…

I WAS BORN IN KARACHI, Pakistan, but my dad is from Bangladesh and my mom is from Gujarat, India. I grew up with both cultures, so it was totally normal for us to have dhokla [a Gujarati snack made of fermented rice and lentils] paired with a Bengali fish fry. In Pakistan we ate things people over here wouldn’t touch, like chicken throat and goat tongue. Then we moved to Canada when I was nine, and everything was unfamiliar. I had never even been to a grocery store! One day my dad brought home an avocado thinking it was a kiwi. I KNEW THAT AS AN IMMIGRANT, I was different. But I never expected negativity. All the brown kids at my school got bullied. So I started going home and…

Court Note Cards “It’s an unwritten law in Philly that you must be aware of sports teams and their key players, and never ever root for a New York team. Needless to say, I’ve gotten more into sports since moving back. These Poem Press cards really speak to me right now.” $16 for 12 “This clip and spoon mash-up by Danish design store Hay is perfect for coffee or tea rationing. As a non-coffee drinker, I use it for granola or sunflower seeds to learn what proper servings look like.”CLIP CLIP SPOON $ 10 Putti Tote “I’ve always loved cherubs and wanted to do a slightly naughty one for the shop. Alelli Tanghal created this illustration for us. It either gets a smile or a confused ‘Is that a cherub…

FOR THIS NEW YORKER, the idea of California cooking elicits an amberhued fantasy of palm trees, big sunny kitchens, postcard sunsets, and envy-inducing produce (even in winter!). But the first time I drove up the half-mile palm-tree-lined driveway at Scribe Winery in Sonoma, I realized my corny fantasies didn’t even come close. I was there to shadow Kelly Mariani, who runs the culinary program at her family’s winery, while she cooked through her pared-down recipes. That’s how I found myself taking notes in Scribe’s open-air kitchen, looking out over a giant patio with a wood-fired grill and a working garden, where frisky quail hop among edible flowers. In the kitchen there were stacks of locally made ceramics, shelves of cookbooks, and a massive walnut-wood-topped island piled high with fruits, vegetables,…

STEP-BY STEPS TIPS & TRICKS Life’s a Picnic Whether you’re making a pilgrimage to the beach or hitting up your local park, everything just tastes better outdoors. Here’s our guide to maximizing your alfresco potential this summer 1 WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD, GO ROOM-TEMP OR GO HOME… If you’re worried about keeping every single item of food you’re packing fridge-cold, you’re packing the wrong stuff. Not everything needs to be Spam-level shelf-stable, but you should feel comfortable transporting all those snacks in a tote, not a cooler. GOOD PICNIC FOODS • Fried Chicken The greatest of all time. Arguably even more delicious room-temp than it is hot. • Chips and Dip Obvs. • Crudités Because you can’t just eat chips. • Cured Sausages Literally made with this exact scenario…

Pure Leaf.® Our Thing Is Tea. There are no shortcuts to making exceptional iced tea. In fact, our tea masters spent years perfecting it. It’s why they insist on using only real tea leaves, rolled and brewed for a smooth, delicious taste. It’s a difference that stands the test of time. And it’s a difference we think you’ll be able to taste at the very first sip. Discover tea the way it was meant to be with Pure Leaf.® Visit pureleaf.com ©2019 PURE LEAF is a registered trademark of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license. Get Ready to Feast Tickets go on sale June 7 for Feast Portland, one of America's premier food and drink festivals presented by Bon Appétit. Join 100 of America’s most innovative chefs for…