Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2018 i Bon Appetit

ITALY’S #1 TOMATO BRAND HAS brought its innovative spirit and sustainably grown, highest-quality tomatoes to the U.S. Owned and operated by the Mutti family for four generations, the namesake company has worked tirelessly to preserve the fresh, natural sweetness of perfectly sun-ripened tomatoes in all its products. Mutti only uses the finest tomatoes from the best farmers in the famously fertile “food valley" of Parma, home of Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma. For generations, the family has cultivated deep-rooted relationships with farmers, for whom being a Mutti partner is a source of great pride. These relationships allow Mutti to source the region’s finest tomatoes, to which they simply add a pinch of Mediterranean sea salt to create their signature Finely Chopped Tomatoes, or "Polpa" in Italian. The result? Fragrant…

So how’d you get into cookbooks? KC: After college I got a job at the Library Ltd. in St. Louis. I used my employee discount to buy cookbooks by Nancy Silverton, Charlie Trotter, and Jacques Pépin. This was in the ’90s, preinternet, so it was the only way to learn about these chefs. That’s when I fell in love with cooking and started working at restaurants. What made you decide to go into business together? MM: We were at a crossroads two or three years ago. Ken was the chef de cuisine at Wolfgang Puck’s Cut, but we wanted to start a family. So we began thinking about a cookbook store since Ken has such a significant collection. KC: Also the Cook’s Library closed in 2009. I realized L.A. needed…

Search & shop at homedepot.com Farmhouse Dining FROM PREP TO PRESENTATION No matter what’s on the menu, The Home Depot has kitchen tools and tabletop essentials you can trust. ENTERTAINING MADE EASY 1 MAKE THE FOOD IN ADVANCE Take the stress away from the big day by prepping and cooking ahead of time. 2 SET UP A DRINK STATION A well-placed cocktail cart keeps guests out of the kitchen and relieves the host of bartending duties. 3 DIM THE LIGHTS Ambience is everything. Candles, lanterns and low lighting make for an enchanting autumn evening. VISIT HOMEDEPOT.COM FOR MORE INSPIRATION.…

Oven Polenta with Roasted Mushrooms and Thyme 4 SERVINGS 1½ lb. mixed mushrooms (such as crimini, shiitake, oyster, and/or maitake), torn into 1" pieces4 sprigs thyme, plus leaves for serving6 garlic cloves, smashed Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil2 Tbsp. unsalted butter1 cup polenta4 oz. Parmesan, finely grated, plus more for serving1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar Flaky sea salt Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 325°. Combine mushrooms, thyme sprigs, and garlic on a large rimmed baking sheet. Season generously with kosher salt and pepper; drizzle with oil. Toss to coat mushrooms, then spread out in an even layer.1 Transfer to upper rack in oven and let mushrooms roast while you prepare polenta. Bring 4½ cups water to a simmer in a…

Roast Fish with Cannellini Beans and Green Olives 4 SERVINGS 4 sprigs oregano2 15.5-oz. cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed1½ cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted, torn Kosher salt1½ lb. whole skinless whitefish fillet (such as cod, haddock, or halibut)2 small shallots, thinly sliced into rings1 Fresno chile, very thinly sliced into rings2 lemons, divided25 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Preheat oven to 300°. Combine oregano, beans, olives, and ½ cup water in a shallow 3-qt. baking dish; season lightly with salt. Place fish on top and nestle into beans; season fish generously with salt. Scatter shallots and chile over fish and beans. Very thinly slice 1 lemon and wriggle out seeds. Arrange slices, slightly overlapping, over surface of fish. Drizzle everything with oil and roast until fish is opaque throughout and flesh…

The best restaurant in Lisbon is not actually in Lisbon. It’s on the other side of the Tagus River in Cacilhas, a tiny port neighborhood you take a ferry to get to that is home to some abandoned factories and adorable feral cats who enjoy uninterrupted views of Lisbon’s very spectacular hills. There are tourists here but far fewer of them. And very few are at the best restaurant, which is a bodega-type café where a guy in a Corona hat who doesn’t speak English will ask you, “Sardinhas?” to which you will respond yes. And he will spend the next 20 minutes seasoning ten plump sardines with a wet chunky salt, grilling the sardines on a small charcoal grill on the sidewalk, asking other passersby the all-important question (“Sardinhas?”),…

We’ve been wrong about hard cider for so, so long. Rather than a sweet gluten-free alternative to beer, this is a beverage more akin to natural wine—just made with apples instead of grapes. But now that American cider makers are embracing old-school hands-off fermentation techniques and heirloom apple varieties, cider is getting a well-deserved rebranding. The Northeast is the Napa Valley of the cider world. From New York’s Finger Lakes to southern Maine, apples have been growing for over 300 years. Here cider makers are turning blends of wild and orchardgrown fruit into still and sparkling apple wines (yes, you can also call them apple wines) with tantalizing acidity, tannins, and whispers of the lands on which they were grown. Small-scale producers like Barnard, Vermont’s Fable Farm Fermentory use yeasts…

Inside the kitchen of Passerotto in Chicago you’ll find the building blocks of Korean cuisine (doenjang, kimchi) alongside Italian ones (bagna cauda, Calabrian chiles), and it all makes perfect sense to chef-owner Jennifer Kim. “I get asked a lot: ‘Why Italian?’” she says. “I’m not randomly taking two things and trying to make it work. It’s something that’s been in the making my whole life.” As a first-gen Korean-American kid growing up in Chicago’s suburbs, Kim found solace in fiery soondubu, but later on when she was a pharmacy student, creamy risotto took its place. “Italian food became my other comfort food when I couldn’t find Korean food,” she says. Now, after ditching the pharma life and working at hot spots like Nico Osteria, Kim has translated her coming of…

ODYSSEY 2 PENDANT Spot ted at: Tusk in Portland, OR; designed by Jessica Helgerson Why We Love It: This swiveling pendant is simple but striking, all clean lines and glowing orbs, available in black or bronze and ideal for high ceilings. Take a cue from Tusk and mount a few in your dining room alongside a giant portrait of Keith Richards in a Speedo. It’s a vibe. ($259; schoolhouse.com) TOTIE TASK TABLE LAMP Spotted at: Dame in Portland, OR; designed by Maxwell Gray Interiors Why We Love It: Seemingly vintage, with a natural brass finish, these oldschool lamps cast just the right amount of downward light—and they won’t blind you thanks to their solid-metal shades. Hide the cord like Dame by rewiring it through a table. ($339; visualcomfortlightinglights.com) PANAY WICKER…

Roast Sausage and Fennel with Orange 4 SERVINGS 2 medium fennel bulbs, fronds reserved, bulbs halved through root end, thinly sliced lengthwise11 small red onion, halved through root end, thinly sliced lengthwise3 sprigs rosemary4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper6 sweet Italian sausages (about 1½ lb. total)1 medium navel orange1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar Flaky sea salt Place a rack in highest position in oven; preheat to 425°. Combine fennel bulbs, red onion, and rosemary sprigs on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 3 Tbsp. oil, season generously with kosher salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Arrange sausages on top, spacing evenly and nestling into vegetables. Prick sausages all over with the tip of a paring knife and drizzle with…

Broccoli and Garlic-Ricotta Toasts with Hot Honey 6 SERVINGS 1 baguette, sliced ½" thick on a diagonal (about 12 slices)6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 head of broccoli, stem peeled, stem and florets chopped into ½" pieces11 head of garlic, cloves separated2 Kosher salt1 Tbsp. honey1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1½ cups fresh ricotta Freshly ground black pepper Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 400°. Arrange bread slices in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 Tbsp. oil. Toss on baking sheet to coat, then arrange again in a single layer. Place broccoli and garlic on another rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with remaining 4 Tbsp. oil. Season generously with salt and toss to combine. Place…

I FIRST ENCOUNTERED QUARTER-SHEET PANS, the miniature sibling of the pans you turn to for roasting potatoes and baking cookies, when I was working as a line cook. I quickly learned to keep a stack near me at all times for anything from toasting sesame seeds to warming up tiny apple pies. And while I haven’t touched my fancy tweezers once since I stopped cooking professionally, I still find myself reaching for my own quarter-sheet pans—which, at about 9½x13", are not much bigger than this magazine. I’ll use them to toast a few handfuls of walnuts, broil shrimp, or heat up leftovers, tasks too small to pull out a half-sheet. And since several quarter-sheets can fit in the oven together, I can roast garlic, make crispy brussels sprouts, and bake…

Slow-Cooked Halibut with Garlic Cream and Fennel 4 SERVINGS Cod and pollock are both great alternatives for the halibut. 2 small fennel bulbs, fronds reserved, bulbs cut into ½"-thick wedges8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced4 cups heavy cream1 Tbsp. plus 3 tsp. kosher salt, divided; plus more1½ lb. skin-on halibut fillet, patted dry1 small lemon½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper Preheat oven to 250°. Place fennel in a large saucepan wide enough to fit fish comfortably. Add garlic, cream, and 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. salt. Place over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until fennel is just tender, 12–15 minutes (do not let cream come to a boil). Remove from heat. Season fish with remaining 1 tsp. salt. Using tongs, carefully slip fish into pan (it should be…

Tito’s Apple Cider Mule 1.5 oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka, 2 oz. ginger beer, 1 oz. apple cider, and squeeze of fresh lemon juice Add Tito’s Handmade Vodka, ginger beer, apple cider, and lemon juice to a copper mug with ice. Stir and garnish with a lemon and apple slice. Find a Tito’s Copper Mug at TITOSVODKA.COM/STORE. For more Tito’s Handmade Vodka recipes, visit TITOSVODKA.COM.…

What to Eat, Drink, and Buy This Month No disrespect to that box of Bisquick you grew up with, but did you know you can make pancakes with sourdough and buckwheat and even coffee flour? Chefs do. Across the country, they’re upping their breakfast games, transforming the ho-hum flapjack into a must-order item…

APPLE VARIETY Most ciders are made from a blend of apple types, but you want to see specific names, like Northern Spy, Golden Russet, or Newtown Pippin. Avoid anything that says “apple juice” and definitely steer clear of the word concentrate. SPARKLING OR STILL Not all cider is bubbly. Like wine, there are still and sparkling varieties. For a smooth drinking experience, go still. For a livelier one, bubbly. UNFILTERED See a little sediment in your bottle? Totally cool! It’s leftover bits of yeast and apple that usually get filtered out. Here they help give the cider that earthy taste we’re after. RAW Pasteurization kills living bacteria and yeast, making cider more shelf stable. But if it’s labeled raw, it was not pasteurized, giving the cider a life and vibrancy…

We all know the feeling. You look around a restaurant and suddenly think, Damn, everyone looks good. Why? Superb lighting—the right fixtures in the right spots with the right bulbs. “Like a great cocktail, a well-lit space is the result of different flavors; some bold, some subtle,” says Ken Fulk, the designer behind spots like NYC’s Legacy Records. Creating the same ambience at home requires precision. Too bright and a space feels like a hospital; too dark and you can barely see your plate. A dimmer alone won’t cut it. We turned to some of the best-lit restaurants and their designers to light the way. GET THE LAYERED LOOK Go to Karasu, an izakaya-style restaurant-within-a-restaurant in Brooklyn, and you might as well be in Tokyo. One tiny window offers no…

When I cook on weeknights, the last thing I’m looking for is drama. Which is why, as the weather starts to cool down, I’m all about the allure of the oven. The oven might not seem as exciting as the stovetop, with its high-stakes searing and sautéing, but it accomplishes much more than baking a batch of cookies. Its relatively gentle dry heat encourages juices to mingle, flavors to intensify, edges to crisp, and textures to tenderize. All of these recipes are inspired by the Italian concept of al forno, or ovenbaked. Although the idea traditionally refers to wood-fired ovens, all you really need is a baking sheet or roasting pan to make these weeknight-friendly dinners at home. Putting your oven to use means your kitchen fills with great smells…

Baked Pasta alla Norma 8 SERVINGS 1 medium globe eggplant, peeled, cut into ½" pieces2 pints cherry tomatoes8 garlic cloves, smashed¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for skillet½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, plus more for sprinkling Kosher salt2 large eggs2 Tbsp. tomato paste4 oz. finely grated Parmesan, divided1 lb. spaghetti12 Tbsp. drained capers½ cup torn basil, plus a few whole leaves Preheat oven to 425°. Combine eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, ¼ cup oil, and ½ tsp. red pepper flakes in a large ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron. Season generously with salt and toss to combine. Roast, shaking skillet once or twice, until eggplant is tender and tomatoes burst, 25–35 minutes.2 Let vegetables cool while you prepare the pasta (watch out for the hot handle when you take the skillet…

HALLOWEEN is not my number-one holiday. There was the year I got egged; I hate those Ghostface masks; and as a parent, the evening is an emotional roller coaster of hysteria, anticipation, and sugar-induced shock. On the bright side, I’ve come up with a few rules over the years that help smooth out the edges, and by now my nineyear-old knows the drill. He must actually say the words “trick or treat”; he can have one piece of candy per five city blocks, and then one a night till the haul is gone; and, most important, he has to eat something “real” before we head out. Since this kid loves crunchy vegetables and is motivated by the promise of future rewards, if I throw together a plate of what we…

FROM FALL TO LATE WINTER, you will always find a stash of butternut squash tucked away in a basket in my kitchen. Although my normal routine involves plenty of roasted cubes and puréed soups, some of my favorite ways to eat butternut have nothing to do with cooking it in the oven. I’ll use a box grater to shred one into muffins for breakfast, sauté it in a stovetop hash with chorizo, or slice it into thick planks to butter-baste on the stove like a steak. And if you’ve never thought to shave squash into ribbons for a crunchy raw (yes, raw!) salad, turn the page. “There was a time when soup was my butternut squash default. But it has so much more potential than that! Now I can’t decide…

Ham Hock and White Bean Stew 8 SERVINGS If you can’t find corona or gigante beans for this stew, use smaller white ones like cannellini. Keep in mind that they’ll cook a lot faster, so give the ham a 30-minute head start. 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 medium onions, halved through root ends2 heads of garlic, halved crosswise2 small carrots, trimmed, scrubbed½ cup dry white wine2½ lb. smoked ham hocks (about4 medium)1 bunch of thyme, stems tied together with kitchen twine2 cups corona or gigante beans, soaked overnight, drained Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Cook onions and garlic, cut side down, and carrots, turning carrots occasionally, until cut sides of onions and garlic are golden, about 4 minutes.…

Black Forest Layer Cake with Cherry Preserves 12 SERVINGS Some chocolate cakes can be overwhelmingly intense, but this one manages to feel light and balanced, with no single component dominating the others. Even if you’re not a fan of fruit and chocolate, this combination will change your mind. SOAK 1 cup (225 g) whole milk1.8 oz. (50 g) 70% cacao chocolate, finely chopped FILLING 1 envelope unflavored powdered gelatin (about 2½ tsp.)9½ oz. (270 g) 70% cacao chocolate, finely chopped1 tsp. kosher salt¾ cup (175 g) whole milk¼ cup (80 g) light corn syrup1½ cups (350 g) heavy cream ASSEMBLY Chocolate Genoise (see master recipe, p. 105)⅔ cup cherry preservesChocolate Swiss Meringue Buttercream (see master recipe, p. 105) SOAK Heat milk and chocolate in a small saucepan over medium-low, whisking often,…

READY, SET, DECORATE You’re more likely to find olive branches or tiny plums than buttercream roses or fondant animals atop pastry chef Natasha Pickowicz’s ultramodern layer cakes (see page 98). She seeks out seasonal flowers, greenery, and fruit for an unexpected and organic effect. We asked her for tips on how to re-create the look at home. LIKE WITH LIKE Group similar shapes and colors together. Think tomatoes and red currants, or bay leaves and blue thistles. FLOWER POWER Instead of decorating with whole flowers, try pulling off the petals and scattering them all over. MIX-AND-MATCH FRUIT Try mixing fresh and dried fruits, like clusters of raisins on the vine and fresh grapes, for cool visuals. HELP! The filling is spilling out the sides of my cake while I’m trying…

TRAVEL PLANNER STARTERS pp. 11–24 BESSOU 5 Bleecker St., NYC; 212-228-8502; bessou.nyc BONDI HARVEST 1814 Berkeley St., Santa Monica, CA; 310-586-7419; bondiharvest.com THE CHARTER OAK 1050 Charter Oak Ave., St. Helena, CA; 707-302-6996; thecharteroak.com FABLE FARM FERMENTORY 1525 Royalton Turnpike, Barnard, VT; 802-234-5667; fablefarmfermentory.com FRIENDS & FAMILY 5150 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-668-2000; friendsandfamilyla.com GRAND CAFE 3804 Grand Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612-822-8260; grandcafemn.com HOLY ROLLER 509 Rio Grande St., Austin; 512-502-5119; holyrolleraustin.com JUNE’S ALL DAY 1722 S. Congress Ave., Austin; 512-416-1722; junesallday.com KARASU 166 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn; 347-223-4811; karasubk.com THE LAKEHOUSE 10455 NE Fifth Pl., Bellevue, WA; 425-454-7076; thelakehousebellevue.com LAWRENCE 5201 St-Laurent Blvd., Montreal; 514-503-1070; lawrencemtl.com NOW SERVING 727 N. Broadway, Unit 133, Los Angeles; 213-395-0627; nowservingla.com PASSEROTTO 5420 N. Clark St., Chicago; 708-607-2102; passerottochicago.com PROUD MARY 2012 NE Alberta…

Chrissy Teigen decided to be “ballsier” in her second cookbook, Cravings: Hungry for More, and it’s all because of her mom, Pepper. When Teigen realized people weren’t scared of the “pungent, strong flavors of Thai food,” she doubled down and embraced them fully with a chapter dedicated to many of her mom’s recipes—like pork larb, fish cakes with spicy peanut sauce, and tom yum noodles. One of the simplest recipes in the book was created because her family wanted ribs but didn’t want to slow-bake or smoke them. Pepper’s solution was to deep-fry four or five single-bone baby back ribs at a time like chicken wings. In four minutes the soy-garlic ribs get crispy on the outside and tender inside, and then they’re topped with Mom’s red-hot pepper sauce. “The…