Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2017 i Bon Appetit

RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS WHEN I COOK FOR MY FAMILY, it’s my chance to inject some sanity into the craziness of my workplace diet. As the food director at Bon Appétit, I taste and approve every single recipe we publish in print and online, five days a week, whether I’m in the mood for it or not. (I know, I know—tough job.) And while I’m not complaining, the truth is that the only time I get to satisfy my cravings, preferences, and rare moments of true hunger is when I’m the one at the stove. The dinners I put together for my husband and two sons rely more on fish than meat; are heavy on veggies, grains, legumes, and leafy greens; and require no excess pans or ingredients. These are…

BUTCHER & BEE Charleston , South Carolina PATTY: Chickpea flour, beets, mushrooms, freekeh, lentils, pecans, cumin, paprika THE SECRET : Chickpea flour as the binder, which delivers a nutty, vegetal flavor PLAN CHECK Los Angeles PAT T Y: Kale, mushrooms, yucca, cashews, breadcrumbs, potato starch THE SECRET : The cheese on top is processed with katsuobushi, a dried, fermented, and smoked bonito, which adds funkiness YEAH! BURGER Atlanta PATTY: Sea Island red peas, carrots, zucchini, breadcrumbs, herbs, spices THE SECRET : Duh, the pimento cheese that gets all melty as the patty cooks on the grill SUPERIORITY BURGER New York PATTY: Quinoa, legumes, seasonal vegetables, breadcrumbs THE SECRET : Both overcooked (to help bind) and undercooked (to give some bite) seasonal vegetables JARDINIÈRE San F rancisco PATTY: Textured wheat protein,…

LOS ANGELES IS THE EPICENTER FOR TASTY GRAIN BOWLS , CREATIVE SALADS , VIBRANT JUICES , AND VIRTUOUS SNACKS . AND THE LOCALS HAVE EATEN LIKE THIS FOR YEARS. COME A LONG ON A T RULY FEEL GOOD TRIP OUT WEST Health food just goes with Los Angeles the way Oscars just go to Meryl Streep. L.A. folk have been aboard the healthy-ish train since, well, trains were how most people got out here. As far back as the 1880s, the sick flocked here to heal themselves with sunshine, raw food, and lots of kale. Replace “the sick” with “aspiring actor/model” and the same pretty much holds true today. We can’t promise you’ll instantly morph into Jessica Alba after one macrobiotic grain bowl (but, say, your skin does look positively…

The best on-land culinary tours… are hosted by Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Score seats at Michelin-starred spots, visit VIP kitchens, and get access to cheesemakers and butchers worldwide The coolest food markets… are in the 20-plus cities where Viking Cruises port. Small groups can shop at, say, La Boqueria in Barcelona, then prepare a meal together on the ship. The most entertaining cooking classes… are taught by America’s Test Kitchen–trained chefs onboard the Holland America Line. Sample freshly made pasta and pies straight from the oven. The unforgettable cocktails… are within reach on Crystal Cruises. Take a shot of Bacardi with the people who make it, then go behind the scenes at other historic distilleries.…

WH AT DO LABNEH , KIMCHI , KOMBUCHA , SOY SAUCE , AND SALAMI HAVE IN COMMON? TH EY ’ RE ALL INFINITELY MORE DELICIOUS! NOT TO MENTION NUTRITIOUS! THANKS TO OLD" SCHOOL CURING , PICKLING , AND AGING TECH N I QUE S . WE CATA LOGED 2 5 8 ECLECTIC FE RMENTS FROM 22 RESTAUR ANT S AROUND THE COUNTRY. HERE ’S A TASTE OF OUR FAVORITES . 1 SEEDY CHARACTER At the Restaurant at Meadowood in Napa, these plump, fermented okra seeds make diners do a double take. Chef Christopher Kostow presents them in a delicate dish as a kind of faux caviar, alongside blinis, crème fraîche, and sliced fish. Not only is it a playful visual trick, but it’s a way to make the most of…

YOU KNOW THE DRILL : EAT BETTER MEAT AND LESS OF IT . BUT WHAT DOES THAT ACTUALLY MEAN, AND HOW ARE WE, PEOPLE WHO , YOU KNOW, LOVE EATING S TEAKS AND BURGERS AND BOLOGNESE, SUPPOSED TO DO THE RIGHT TH ING? RELAX, WE’ VE GOT YOU . THIS I S YOUR GUIDE TO SHOPPING SMARTER , COOKINGS TRATE GICALLY, AND FEELING BETTER ABOUT EATING MEAT_AND ENJOYING IT MORE THAN EVER . ( ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY ASHLEY MASON, LILLI SHERMAN, AND EMMA WARTZMAN ) 1 START FROM THE GROUND UP Freshly ground meat, whether it’s beef, lamb, pork, or chicken, is a delicious, versatile, and affordable alternative to the pricier cuts in the butcher’s case. It’s our go-to when we’re trying to get a satisfying weeknight dinner on the…

THE REDEMPTION OF EGG WHITES WEEKDAY LUNCH GETS GOOD CHARCOAL GOES GLAM ONE CHEF’S “IT” INGREDIENT SAMANTHA BEE’S STINKY LUNCHES 10 Ways to Eat, Shop, and Live All Healthy-ish in 2017 1 Green Groupies Go Here If you’re wondering where the spirulina set goes these days, let us direct you to daytime spot Destroyer in L.A. There, chef Jordan Kahn applies the artful precision of fine dining to foods like granola and breakfast salad. Oatmeal is capped with a frozen disk of cream; edible dusts grace many of the veg-forward dishes. The food is as delicious as it is experimental, making it the current health food destination in a city with no shortage of them (see page 80). 2 LOVE NOTE Rock This Crock Fermenting vegetables is like making wine…

SO IT ’S A WEDNESDAY. I just got home from staring at a screen all day, and I want to do something nice for myself (like cook a nourishing meal). But it’s 7:30 p.m., and simple is the only word my brain can process. This is the moment when I make what I call a cromlet (imagine the love child of a crepe and an omelet). It’s a riff on the traditional chickpea-flour pancake known as socca, popular in Nice, France. Chickpea flour is a little nutty, packed with plant protein, and makes killer pancakes. I like to add eggs to the (naturally gluten-free) batter, along with a riot of spices or herbs. It’s fast, flexible, and a blank canvas for whatever toppings I want. I never really measure, but…

HOW ONE OF HAWAII ’S BEST _KEPT SECRETS TOOK THE MAIN LAND BY STORM A Few Words on Poke Hawaiian chef Rodelio Aglibot , the man behind Chicago ’s Fire Fin Poke Shop , mu ses on his favorite dish Poke (pronounced “poh-kay”) means “to cut” in Hawaiian. Traditionally it’s made with the cheaper part of a firm fish, like the head or tail, diced into thick cubes. Back in the day it was usually ahi (tuna) or tombo (Hawaiian albacore). As a kid, visiting relatives in rural areas on Oahu, locals would sell plastic tubs of it out of coolers along dirt roads. It’s casual. If you had rice, you’d eat it with rice. At home my dad would have it with beer. Most of the poke of my…

EIGHT YEARS AGO NATE APPLEMAN WAS AN OVERWEIGHT AND ANGRY CHEF. TODAY HE ’S 85 POUNDS LIGHTER AND HAPPIER THAN EVER .AND IT ALL START ED WITH A DIET OF MODERATION, NOT DEPRIVATION Nate Appleman got fat cooking for other people. As the executive chef at Pulino’s in 2010, his rustic Italian food was getting hammered by New York critics, a rude fall from grace after winning the James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year Award a year before. “I blew a gasket every day I was in that restaurant,” he says. “I was miserable.” He knew it was time to change. Appleman wanted to be an active dad to son Oliver (now nine), so he started running. A nourishing breakfast followed. And a proper lunch. Then, he stunned…

AND MORE FROM THE BON APPÉTIT TEST KITCHEN FROM P. 97 GO BROWN PSA: When you brown ground meat in a pan, it should be, well, brown and crispy—not gray and mealy like mom’s taco meat. Here’s how to make the larb of your dreams. _CLAIRE SAFFITZ 1. Dry the meat on paper towels and let it come up to room temperature. (This prevents it from steaming in the pan.) 2. Add the meat to a hot, lightly oiled cast-iron pan and smash it into an even layer—then don’t touch it! 3. Once you see crisp edges, use a spatula to divide the patty and _lip it in pieces. Brown the other side, then break into bits and season. FROM P. 40 WHIZ K I D When it comes to…

BACK OF THE NAPKIN AYESHA AND ST EPH CURRY He may be the best basketball player on the planet (unless you’re talking to a LeBron fan), but in the kitchen, Golden State Warrior Steph Curry needs a little coaching. “He’s not focused enough when it comes to his knife skills,” says his wife, Ayesha, who follows that with a conciliatory, “Sorry, baby.” She should know: She wrote a cookbook, The Seasoned Life, and has a new show on the Food Network, Ayesha’s Homemade. So Steph rides the bench in the kitchen while Ayesha cooks for the family, including their two daughters, Riley and Ryan. Before big games, Ayesha makes the carb-loading pasta you’d expect for an athlete. But after really big wins, things get a little more imaginative: bananas Foster.…