I ARRIVE AT GRANDE RIVIERE, north-east Trinidad, just before dusk. The village seems sleepy, tucked into a green valley bordered by a sandy beach and backed by forested hills. The Caribbean Sea, dull under the darkening sky, is tranquil to match, holding tightly to its great secret.
Just paces from the lapping waves, I join a huddle of people surrounding Kevin Muhammad, head of the Grande Riviere Nature Tour Guides Association. I am the only foreigner at this spot tonight, but we all share the same reason for attending: we’re here for the leatherback turtles.
Kevin is explaining the etiquette that must be followed when encountering the world’s largest, most mysterious turtle. His audience is rapt, even the children, as he closes his speech: “See you on the beach at…