Hunched down with my back leaning up against the cool peat bank, I scan my binoculars across the algae-covered rocks, kelp and wind-whipped sea. Local naturalist, photographer and guide Brydon Thomason had already spotted them: “See that triangular-shaped rock? Go up from that and then slightly left.” Nothing.
Then, suddenly, the rocks grow wet, brown fur, sleek heads and long Labrador-like tales – otters. First the mother, then her three cubs, slip with one fluid movement into the water. They are a single writhing mass, twisting and gliding over each other as they swim out into the bay off the east coast of Yell, one of the North Isles of Shetland.
“This is magic,” Brydon whispers. He grew up on the archipelago and has studied these mammals for more than…