This encyclopaedic tour of baked goods and their origins begins back in c12,000 BC, when hunter-gatherers cooked flat breads made from wheat, barley and mashed roots on hot stones. Moving through the history of griddle cakes and pancakes, the book then tackles an incredible array of breads, biscuits and cakes, pies and puddings, finishing (as a literary dessert) with more-luxurious patisserie bakes.
Along the way, Buttery highlights a huge wealth of forgotten – and delicious – recipes, techniques and ingredients, his book functioning, at least in part, as a call to bring them back. We should be dipping our Madeira cake in sweet Madeira wines, for example. And how sad that we have lost the early modern art of adding a caudle (a kind of custard of cream, sugar and…
