Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2023 i Good Food

This month, we celebrate the flavours that remind us of home. For many of us, it’s the food we learned to cook when we were young, or enjoyed eating as we were growing up. Five inspiring women share their memories and recipes, from the rösti-topped shepherd’s pie that food director Cassie Best made with her mum in the UK, to Olia Hercules’ cover-star Ukrainian poppy seed buns. Read their stories and discover the unique twists they’ve added to make them extra-special on page 9. If the stories behind recipes fascinate you, subscribe to the new BBC Good Food podcast now. Every week, we explore the dishes that define our guests, along with a special cook-along episode so you can enjoy the recipe, too. Scan the QR code on the right…

Avgolemoni (or avgolemono) is a classic Greek soup that most families will have their own method for. This is my family’s recipe – specifically my mum and Yiayia Maroulla’s recipe – which is incredibly creamy, thanks to my mum’s brilliant method. The biggest difference between Grecian and Cypriot versions is that, in some cases, Greek-Cypriots add ground cinnamon. I’d never even tried it without until recently, but I love the gentle spice and warmth that cinnamon adds. However, you can simply omit it from the method (or sprinkle it over at the end.) As is the way with chicken broth soups, this is thought to be healing. There’s no denying that the velvety texture, warming spice and the vitamin C hit from the lemon makes it feel like a hug…

Pancakes In my kitchen, all special occasions are celebrated with breakfast pancakes. Growing up, pancakes cooking was the scent of Mother’s Day. It was the first dish I learned to cook, and reminds me of that Mother’s Day chaos when, aged six, I first held a whisk and learned to blend flour, eggs and milk into batter, fry them in butter, and top with everything from cold ricotta and a squeeze of fresh orange juice to, of course, maple syrup. Bre Graham, author of Table For Two (DK) Moong bean dhal Mother’s Day starts on our allotment, with my girls eating iced buns and toasting marshmallows on a big fire. Then, it’s home for moong bean dhal, rotli and rice with mango pulp on the side. My mum used to…

Sunday leftovers sandwiches Transform any surplus meat and veg from your Sunday roast into quick and easy sandwich fillers that will make a lunch to look forward to on Monday. Roast beef & roquefort sandwich MAKES 1 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY 2 slices of wholemeal bread softened butter, for spreading1-2 tbsp mayonnaise100g leftover roast beef, thinly sliced25g roquefort, at room temperature2 cornichons, sliced handful of frisée lettuce 1 Spread the bread slices with some butter, then the mayonnaise. 2 Top with the beef, then crumble over the cheese and top with the cornichons and lettuce. Sandwich with the second bread slice, then wrap and chill until needed. Will keep chilled overnight. GOOD TO KNOW folate PER SERVING 650 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 17g • carbs 25g…

Spicy rice with beans Though this isn’t a traditional jollof rice recipe, avocado provides a cooling contrast to the chilli, plus vitamin E and monounsaturated fat. It’s also a good source of folate, which guards against anaemia. If you’ve never used scotch bonnet, use half to start – they’re very hot. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins plus resting COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY V FIBRE IRON 5 OF 5-A-DAY 150g wholemeal basmati, rinsed2 tbsp rapeseed oil1 onion, chopped (about 175g)1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into large chunks½-1 scotch bonnet pepper, deseeded2 large garlic cloves10g ginger (peeled weight), chopped400g can chopped tomatoes2 tsp curry powder1 tsp vegetable bouillon (check it’s vegan, if needed)½ tsp ground white pepper2 tsp thyme leaves2 bay leaves400g can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed1…

Cookbook “Bersama by Francis Kuijk. It’s an Indonesian cookbook by my Dutch friend.” Music to cook to “Dance remix in the kitchen and Ibiza Lounge at home.” Cheap-eats restaurant “Seoul Kimchi in Manchester.” facebook.com/seoulkimchimanchester Fridge essential “Smoked mackerel.” Sunday lunch “I rub Malaysian spice paste on chicken, beef or lamb, and serve it with roasted vegetables, gravy and Yorkshire puddings.” NEXT MONTH, DON’T MISS RUKMINI IYER’S CASHEW RICE…

Try a subscription to BBC Good Food’s sister magazine, O, and get your first 5 issues for just £5! Each issue is packed with stunning, thoroughly tested recipes, restaurant recommendations, drinks, health and interiors features, as well as expert tips to level up your cooking skills.* Enjoy these great subscriber benefits Save money on the usual shop price The convenience of free delivery direct to your door Delivered in plastic-free, recyclable paper packaging Unlock digital access to Olive’s top pies and tarts recipes Get subscriber-only discounts on the Olive shop 3 easy ways to subscribe Scan the QR code to subscribe straightaway Order online at buysubscriptions.com/OLGF323 Call us on 03330 162 127** and quote OLGF323…

Book your tickets 15-18June 2023 | NEC Birmingham Entertainment | Tasting | Shopping | Inspiration The food and drink event of the summer is here! The BBC Good Food Show is back from 15-18 June, with new talent, new producers, new recipes, new inspiration and so much more! Our theatres will be bursting full of money-saving seasonal recipes to get you in the mood for summer, taught by your favourite celebrity chefs and experts live on stage, including James Martin, Nadiya Hussain, Ainsley Harriott, Jane Dunn of Jane’s Patisserie and others. Plus, we’ve got a range of brand-new producers to shop from and taste, catering to your vegan, gluten-free and dairy-free needs! Treat yourself to a delicious day out like no other – book your tickets today and quote GFR4…

Folded omelette & merguez sausage sandwiches with quick chilli jam If you’d like to make these sandwiches for a crowd, use a bigger pan for the omelette and cut to fit in the rolls. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 45 mins EASY 4 merguez sausages4 ciabatta rolls, halved100g halloumi, cut into 8 slices6 eggs small handful of coriander, finely chopped1 tbsp harissa25g butter For the chilli jam (makes 300g) 50g red chillies2 tbsp tomato purée2 roasted red peppers from a jar, drained and roughly chopped3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped15g ginger, peeled and roughly chopped80g golden caster sugar100ml rice vinegar 1 Begin by making the chilli jam. Trim and halve the chillies and put in a wide, non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Dry-fry for around 5 mins, shuffing…

International Women’s Day 8 MARCH Natalia Middleton’s feijoada I was adopted from Sao Paulo at six days old, then moved to the UK and later New Zealand, so I’m pretty multicultural in terms of my roots. My godparents are Brazilian, and we always have Brazilian dishes when we visit them. My godmother has taught me a lot. When I was 12, we went to Brazil for the first time and had feijoada – I remember feeling a really special connection to the dish, which has continued to this day. I now make it regularly at home, and it’s even on the menus in the prisons we work with as part of Food Behind Bars (see opposite). It’s traditionally garnished with orange slices and served with farofa, which is made from…

“Those are the days of miracle and wonder”, as the song goes – the happy days of our childhood. An overly full house crammed with children, parents, grandparents, friends and neighbours, always open doors. How did we all fit into that small terraced house? Kitchen activity was on high alert – cook, eat, cook, eat – and we were always standing by to look after everyone. As soon as the doorbell rang, a large pan of hot water would go on the hob to make milky, spicy-sweet chai and a plate of welcome-to-ourhome snacks would appear. No one could leave without eating something. Exhortations to eat filled the air: “eat something”, “eat more”, “have another”. These were the jingles of our childhood. Crispy namak para (deep-fried Indian snacks) SERVES 8…

Paul, now 52, had lived a reclusive life with his mum Jennifer, but after her death in March 2021, an unexpected opportunity opened up his world in a positive way. After learning about the benefits of volunteering through a support worker, Paul, who is hard of hearing and has a lifelong learning disability, spotted an advert for volunteers at FoodCycle, a charity providing free nutritious, healthy meals to locals. Paul says, “I was interested to find out more as I liked food, and my family were already helping me learn to cook and taking me shopping to buy ingredients.” Paul went along for a meal with his cousin Mark, remaining open-minded about the mostly plant-based foods on offer. “I tried loads of things I hadn’t tried before, like stuffed aubergine,…

BALANCED Ginger chicken udon Fragrant and light, these noodles are packed with fiery ginger. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY 1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan over a medium-high heat and, once hot, stir-fry the chicken and cabbage for 5-7 mins until browned and almost cooked through. Add the ginger and chilli, and cook for a few minutes more until fragrant. 2 Add the remaining ingredients, except the coriander and pickled ginger, and fry until the chicken is cooked and the noodles are tender, about 1-2 mins more. Season, adding more soy, vinegar or mirin, if you like. Top with the coriander and pickled ginger, if using. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • vit c •…

For those who don’t know what ras malai is, let me enlighten you. It’s an Indian pudding made of light milk dumplings soaked in sweet, gently spiced milk. The milk contains notes of cardamom, crushed pistachios and sometimes flaked almonds and saffron, if you’re lucky. Ras malai cake This cake is baked in a foil container, so it soaks up all that milk. You should take it with you to a barbecue or a picnic, give everyone a spoon and just get stuck in. I guarantee your friends will ask you to make it again. SERVES 8-10 PREP 15 mins plus cooling and overnight chilling COOK 30 mins EASY V 4 eggs, lightly beaten175g caster sugar1 tsp baking powder200g plain flour20ml neutral oil, such as sunflower or groundnut280ml whole milk200ml…

Supertato by Sue Hendra and Paul Linnet is published by Simon & Schuster UK. Follow the adventures of Supertato with CBeebies on BBC iPlayer. Cheesy broccoli-stuffed potatoes (inspired by Supertato) SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY V ❄ 4 baking potatoes1 tbsp sunflower oil1 small broccoli (about 300g), broken into small florets (or use frozen sweetcorn or peas)50g unsalted butter150g cheddar, grated 1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, rub over the oil and season with salt. Put the potatoes directly on the oven rack and bake for 1 hr until the skin is crisp and golden, and the potatoes are cooked. Leave until cool enough to handle, about 15 mins. Meanwhile, cook the broccoli in…

Cardamom & peach quinoa porridge SERVES 2 PREP 3 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V Put 75g quinoa, 25g porridge oats and 4 cardamom pods in a small saucepan with 250ml water and 100ml unsweetened almond milk. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 15 mins, stirring occasionally. Pour in another 150ml unsweetened almond milk and cook for 5 mins until creamy. Remove the cardamom pods and serve topped with 2 ripe peaches, sliced and 1 tsp maple syrup. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • low cal • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 231 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 37g • sugars 10g • fibre 6g • protein 8g • salt 0.2g Healthy pancakes MAKES 10-12 PREP…

Slow-cooker puttanesca squid Squid is often flash-fried, but it’s also great when slow-cooked. Inspired by classic Italian puttanesca sauce, this dish makes a great hearty lunch. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 3 hrs 10 mins EASY 2 tsp olive oil1 onion, finely chopped3 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated6 anchovy fillets large pinch of chilli flakes (optional)1 tsp dried oregano400g can cherry tomatoes or chopped tomatoes600g prepared squid, tubes cut into rings, plus tentacles3 tbsp capers, drained150g pitted black olives125ml white wine (or use water) small handful of parsley, finely chopped crusty bread, to serve (optional) 1 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the onion for 6-8 mins until soft and beginning to brown. Add the garlic and anchovies and cook for…

These recipes were picked to provide healthy suppers for four people using affordable ingredients, and include ideas for using up any leftovers. We’ve included a balance of lean protein from meat, fish, dairy and plant foods, as well as energising carbohydrates and healthy fats, including the all-important omega-3 variety. Chole with cumin rice & raita Make this flavour-packed chickpea curry for a satisfying meat-free supper that also provides two of your five-a-day. It’s great if you haven’t got time to go shopping, as it uses up storecupboard basics such as canned chickpeas, dried rice and spices. You can easily dial down the spice levels for youngsters, too. Beans and pulses, like chickpeas, are rich in protein, resistant starch and soluble fibre, all of which slow the speed of digestion and…

Nathan Anthony is the home cook behind the hugely popular Bored of Lunch accounts on Instagram and TikTok where he shares his accessible, healthy recipes made using a slow cooker or air fryer, with over 1.5 million followers. @BoredofLunch Thai basil beef I adore this recipe, which was inspired by the local Thai takeaway we had growing up. The smell alone transports me back to my childhood, so it holds such sentimental value. That’s the beauty of food – it can trigger wonderful memories. The flavour here is sensational, like a rich satay. It’s got to be one of my all-time favourite fakeaways. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 3 hrs EASY 500g beef steaks, thinly sliced5 garlic cloves, crushed1 tsp chilli flakes1 tsp ancho chilli flakes1 tbsp holy basil…

Lake Garda, Venice & Verona Seven nights/eight days from £989pp* Departures from April to October 2023 This tour is a wonderful blend of some of the finest sights in northern Italy. Firstly, Lake Garda, with the snow-capped Dolomite mountains in the background; then Venice, a unique city full of cultural delights such as the Doge’s Palace, St Mark’s Basilica and the Grand Canal; lastly, Verona, one of the most romantic cities you will find. Your tour includes ● Return flights from a selection of regional airports with hotel transfers ● Seven nights in a choice of three-to four-star superior accommodation, inclusive of local taxes, with breakfast and dinner (stays at Hotel Portici and Antico Borgo are on a B&B basis) ● The services of our experienced and insightful tour manager…

After seasoning with salt, the second easiest way to boost the flavour of a dish is to introduce a little acidity. This will give your recipe more definition. It can be as simple as adding a splash of vinegar to a sauce or finishing with a squeeze of citrus, which works well when you don’t want the acid to dominate, but simply lift the dish a little. You can also include punchy ingredients such as capers or kimchi, which will have more of a starring role in the recipe. As well as the obvious vinegars, lemon, lime and pickles, ingredients such as natural yogurt, wine, soured cream, tomatoes or pineapple will also add acidity as well as more flavour.…

MUST-TRY RECIPE Doenjang lamb skewers Rice Table by Su Scott (£27, Quadrille) A firm favourite this month, Su Scott’s book is full of delicious, easy-to-follow Korean recipes, alongside her personal, raw exploration of identity – you’re sure to be drawn in. You’ll also want to bookmark the braised tofu and kimchi fried rice recipes. Dark Rye and Honey Cake by Regula Ysewijn (£26, Murdoch) Understand the history behind traditional Belgian bakes, which extends far beyond buns. Recipes are separated into celebrations and festivals, such as Candlemas and Midwinter. Ideal for poring over on a Sunday morning with a coffee and freshly made Vlaamse wafel. Must try recipe: Luikse wafel A Table Full of Love by Skye McAlpine (£26, Bloomsbury) Food is truly one of the best ways to show love,…

Lavazza Jolie coffee pod machine If you’re looking for a model that nails the basics, this one offers excellent value, with its sleek, statement design and modest footprint. It brews espresso with 10 bars of pressure to make rich coffee – simply lift and lower the handle to lock the capsules into place. If you prefer longer shorts or lungo shots, you won’t be disappointed. Available from Currys (£94.99), Amazon (£94.99), John Lewis & Partners (£95) Best budget coffee machine Russell Hobbs Compact Fast breadmaker For fresh bread made quickly, this small machine has two fast-bake functions that can turn around a large 1kg family-sized loaf in under an hour. There are 12 pre-programmed recipes to try, most of which come with a choice of three sizes. As well as…

SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK V 2 tbsp raspberry jam50ml gin1 tbsp lemon juice ice Stir the jam to loosen, then tip into a cocktail shaker along with the gin, lemon juice and a handful of ice. Shake until the outside of the shaker feels cold. Strain into a chilled glass to serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 192 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 20g • sugars 20g • fibre none • protein 0.2g • salt 0.02g…

BEER Hofmeister weisse beer You might remember Hofmeister from the 80s ‘Follow the Bear’ ad campaign. Since then, it’s been reinvented as a premium Bavarian beer and scooped many awards. Weisse, a wheat beer with notes of vanilla, banana and brioche, has received three stars from the Great Taste Awards. £23.99 (12 x 330ml bottles), hofmeister.co.uk KOMBUCHA Remedy cherry plum kombucha A great entry point into the world of kombucha, this one’s reminiscent of fruity cherry drop sweets, but with that classic kombucha sour tang for balance. £1.99 (250ml can), Holland & Barrett TONIC Artisan Drinks Amalfi lime tonic water Upgrade your gin and tonic with this zesty lime drink. It also works well with tequila or vodka. £4.90 (6 x 200ml cans), Ocado LIQUEUR Jumping Goat coffee vodka liqueur…

Chaapat, pronounced ‘cha-putt’, are delicious and simple Parsi crêpes or pancakes. They’re a nostalgic delicacy made with coconut milk and laced with nuts and a little sugar, then served with a cup of strong, sweet tea. This recipe comes from my mother-in-law’s family, who moved from Udvada, and it’s combined with my take on a traditional 18th-century ‘quire of paper’ recipe: an elegant, layered stack of paper-thin pancakes, served like a cake. Parsi pancakes SERVES 8 PREP 2 hrs COOK 45 mins MORE EFFORT V 225g plain flour225g sugar½ tsp saffron threads, crushed½ tsp cardamom powder (or crushed cardamom seeds)¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg4 eggs, beaten400g can coconut milk1 tsp vanilla extract60g pistachios, finely chopped (or blitzed in a food processor)1 tbsp ground almonds icing sugar, for dusting300g ready-to-roll marzipan1-2…

Poppy seeds are one of the most loved ingredients in Ukraine. The dough is used to make larger rolls or zavyvanets – shaped like the more familiar babka. But, I use it to make cinnamon-bun-like rolls. My mum would boil the poppy seeds in milk, but you can use plant milk or water, too. When you blitz the dough with sugar, it becomes buttery, so you can omit dairy altogether and leave the butter out – just increase the amount of poppy seeds. tip GET AHEAD You can make the dough the night before and cover and chill until needed. You can also make the filling in advance – it can be frozen for up to three months or covered and chilled for a few days. Let both come to…

When I was growing up, my mum did all the cooking. With both parents at work, family food was never fancy, but always full of love. Midweek, we’d eat quick, simple food: bangers and mash, macaroni cheese, bananas and custard. At the weekend, I spent time in the kitchen with my mum making pies of every description: potato-topped fish pie for Friday night, creamy chicken pie, apple pie when Bramleys were ready for picking, steak and kidney suet pudding for my granddad. The one that never appealed, though, was shepherd’s pie – until Mum created this rösti-topped version. The chunks of lamb (you could also use mince) give it body, but it’s the cheesy topping that captured my heart. SERVES 4-6 PREP 30 mins COOK 3 hrs 35 mins MORE…

Save on Samuel Groves stainless steel tri-ply chef pans Made in England, these Samuel Groves stainless steel tri-ply chef pans are guaranteed for life. Strong and versatile, they boast rapid and responsive heat distribution and come in three sizes: 20cm, 24cm and 26cm. The rounded base makes stirring, frying and whisking easier, and they perform superbly on all hob types, including induction, and are oven-safe up to 250C. The pans are also comfortable to hold, and supported by the Samuel Groves Pans for Life refurbishment service. HOW TO ORDER Visit samuelgroves.com, search for ‘tri-ply chefs pan’, then select the size and use the code GFCHEFPAN20 at the checkout. Offer ends 30 April 2023. SAVE 20% EXCLUSIVE PRICE from £65 including p&p…

HEALTH TREND Air-fryer pasta chips This low-cost snack is made using the gadget everyone is talking about. SERVES 4-6 PREP 2 mins COOK 25-30 mins EASY V 200g small pasta shapes, such as farfalle2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil2 tsp smoked paprika1 tsp ground cumin large pinch of dried oregano1 tsp onion granules tomato dip, to serve 1 Cook the pasta following pack instructions. Drain and transfer to a large bowl. 2 Stir in the remaining ingredients, season with salt and pepper, and mix until the pasta is well-coated. 3 Set the air fryer to 180C, tip the pasta into the basket and cook for 15-20 mins, shaking every 5 mins until the pasta is crisp and golden. Serve the pasta chips on their own or with a tomato dip.…

Norman Musa is a Malaysian-born chef, author, TV host, tutor and restaurateur based in Leeds. He was executive chef of Kuala Lumpur restaurant and bar, and is currently a tutor for the Wagamama Chef Academy. He’s been a chef for Formula One racing, featured on Tom Kerridge’s Best Ever Dishes on the BBC, and is the author of Bowlful and Amazing Malaysian. Here, he tells us about one of his favourite family recipes. I moved to the UK in 1994 to go to university, and was constantly on the phone to my late mum who ran a food stall in Malaysia, asking her how to cook many of my favourite dishes that she made when I was a boy. I recreated them using the ingredients I could find in the…

Emma Crawforth is a qualified horticulturist, trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and is the gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World. This month, she shares advice on growing spinach. SPINACH What should you look for when spinach is ready? Pick the leaves as soon as they’re the size you require. Frequent picking encourages fresh growth. What time of year is it grown? Sow spinach in regular batches from midwinter to early autumn. Put the earliest into small pots under glass to plant out when large enough, and the latest will overwinter with a little protection from a cloche for spring picking. You’ll be able to harvest from early spring to late autumn. Are there different varieties of spinach? Some varieties suit spring sowing for eating before winter, like America,…

Weekends are packed full of cooking with my son Wilfred. He loves to cook, and as we’re both up first, we set about preparing the weekend meals for everyone else. Often, we make cheese, breads, pizzas and lots of veg-centric food. My wife Olia (her cover recipe can be found on p12) and any guests dropping by will tuck in to what we’ve come up with. Taking the time to sit down and eat together is so important – catching up, sharing stories and making each other laugh. These recipes don’t require much time at the stove, and they can be served sharingstyle for everyone to help themselves, maximising the time spent with family and friends at the table. Joe Woodhouse grew up in Cambridge and Scarborough. He trained as a…

Crumbly cheeses are the oldest recorded cheeses in British history, with Cheshire cheese thought to have first been recorded in around 1580. They are all made from cow’s milk, and are often named after the county in which they were originally made, which is why some are also often referred to as ‘British territorials’. 1 CHESHIRE The forerunner of all of crumblies, Cheshire was the most popular cheese in Britain by the end of the 17th century. Often bright white in colour, some are coloured naturally with annatto. It is zesty and grassy, yet rich, complex and savoury, and lends itself to being baked in a pasty or pie and enjoyed with a crisp, fruity cider. 2 LANCASHIRE Making traditional Lancashire is incredibly labour-intensive; not only does it use curd made over…

I’ve been lucky enough to visit, live and work in some of the regions of Britain where food from the Indian diaspora is at the heart of the culinary community. I come from Manchester, live in London, have worked in Birmingham, spent time in Glasgow, Cardiff, Leicester, Bradford, Swindon and Kent, and I’ve eaten amazing curries in each place. All of them feature in this fascinating exploration and celebration of the food that migrants from the Indian sub-continent have brought to the UK: Bangladeshi in Manchester; Parsi, Sri Lankan and African-Indian in London; Punjabi in the Black Country; Gujarati in Leicester – the list goes on. Every dish is connected by the past. As Sarah says, “Migration, the movement of people and food cultures, has created some of the best…