Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2020 i Good Food

‘Eating together is supposed to be an act of shared closeness, but in a family situation, it can also be about as relaxing as careering down a rickety helter skelter,’ says our wine columnist Victoria Moore in this month’s feature on what to drink with roast lamb (p129). In this issue, we’re taking the stress out of Easter gatherings with a menu that can be prepped ahead and served sharing-style, and our chocolate cheesecake cover star is the grand finale (p28). It’s guaranteed to create joyful atmosphere! Cook once, enjoy twice – that’s the thinking behind this month’s easiest ever midweek meals (p36). If, like us, you’re aiming to cut down on food waste, this is the ideal way to use your leftovers to delicious effect. For more ideas on…

Best Easter eggs MILK CHOCOLATE EGG M&S Fudgy Easter Sundae 210g, £10 This milk chocolate egg tastes high-quality and creamy, but it’s the fun, splat-design topping that makes it a winner. Made from caramelised white chocolate, dark chocolate, biscuit balls, pretzels and mini fudge pieces, it’s the perfect balance of sweet, salty, crunchy and soft. DARK CHOCOLATE EGG Cocoa et Co single origin dark chocolate teardrop 220g, £10, Sainsbury’s For anyone who loves dark chocolate, this luxe-looking egg ticks all the boxes. The chocolate has a rich, intense and slightly bitter flavour, as well as a smooth, creamy texture. FREE-FROM EGG Asda Extra Special free-from egg with vanilla flavoured truffles 200g, £5 In a category where few eggs impressed us, this one shone. Free from gluten, eggs and milk, this…

Beaded metal hanging planter Limited on space? Herbs and even some veg (such as lettuce) can be grown in hanging baskets – just leave in its pot and pop inside the planter. £19.50, Oliver Bonas Latchmere raised planter This stylish pine planter can be used for growing fresh herbs, salad or fruit. Plus, the lower shelf is a handy space for storing growbags and accessories – great for a small garden. £120, gardentrading.co.uk Slate plant tags After sowing your seeds, don’t forget to label what’s growing where! The chalk pencil can be wiped off with a wet cloth so the tags can be reused. £12 (set of six with pencil), gardentrading.co.uk Indoor watering can This 1.7-litre can has a narrow-angled spout for precision watering, and comes in stylish duck-egg blue.…

Carbonara with mint & peas Pancetta, parmesan and peas bring that sought-after umami hit, while mint and chilli wake up the senses. And, of course, tagliatelle offers comfort that is so inherent in every bowl of lovely pasta. If you don’t eat meat, crab (another provider of umami) is a worthy substitute. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 40 mins EASY 1 large onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves 1 red or green chilli, roughly chopped vegetable or rapeseed oil, for frying 200g smoked bacon lardons 100g grated parmesan, plus extra to serve 4 eggs 400g dried tagliatelle 100g frozen peas 1/2 small bunch of mint leaves, torn if large 1 Put the onion, garlic and chilli in a food processor and blitz until finely chopped. 2 Heat a glug of…

Spring sharing board “This veg-laden, mix-and-match sharing board is a great prep-ahead starter” This veg-laden, mix-and-match sharing board makes a great prep-ahead starter. Swap out anything you’re less keen on, and add cured meats or smoked fish, if you like. SERVES 6-8 PREP 30 mins plus 3 hrs marinating COOK 10 mins EASY V 1 small bunch of asparagus 1 bunch of radishes 2 heads of chicory, leaves separated 12 quails’ eggs, hard-boiled and peeled crackers and breadsticks, to serve For the marinated feta 150g feta, cut into cubes 130ml extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, zested 1/2 tsp chilli flakes 1/4 bunch of dill, finely chopped For the pea & artichoke dip 150g frozen peas, defrosted 6 tbsp soft cheese 1/2 small garlic clove, finely grated 70g marinated artichokes,…

16-in-1 digital multi-cooker Cook delicious family meals at the touch of a button with this 16-in-1 digital multi-cooker from Cooks Professional. This large and versatile cooker makes a huge range of meals, and eliminates the need for multiple appliances. Cooking simple, quick and healthy home-cooked meals has never been easier. Accessories include a 5-litre bowl, measuring cup, rice steamerdishand spoon, ladle, plus a manual with recipes to get you started. To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 98778 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/98778 JUST £64.99 (was £69.99) plus £4.95 p&p…

Smoked cheddar, courgette & carrot muffins MAKES 12 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V 2 medium courgettes, grated 150g plain flour 100g rye flour or wholemeal flour 1 ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp smoked paprika ½ tsp cayenne pepper (optional) 3 large eggs 250ml double cream 5 tbsp olive oil 125g smoked or ordinary cheddar, grated 1 medium carrot, peeled and grated (about 90g) 50g parmesan or vegetarian alternative, grated chilli flakes, to serve 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Line a 12-hole muffin tray with paper cases. Mix the grated courgettes with 1 tsp salt in a large bowl and set aside. 2 Mix both the flours, the baking powder, smoked paprika and cayenne pepper, if using, together in a large bowl. Season.…

Deep green and royal purple, its colours as beautiful as a Farrow & Ball catalogue. Purple sprouting broccoli, or ‘PSB’ as it’s affectionately known, is one of my all-time favourite cruciferous vegetables. As well as bringing much needed colour during the cooler months and into spring, it’s packed full of vitamins A, B and C, is laden with iron and, more importantly, full of flavour – peppery and bittersweet. It is utterly delectable, and you’ve got until the end of April to make the most of it. While it does make for a wonderful side dish, PSB more than warrants being given centre stage, and pairs especially well with creamy tastes and bold flavours, making for a lovely lunch, starter or sharing plate when roasted, tumbled with pearly jersey potatoes…

• Keep sowing seeds outdoors in warm soil – try beetroot, carrots, cabbages, lettuce and Swiss chard. • In a greenhouse or on the windowsill, sow celery, French and runner beans, and sweetcorn. • Make supports for peas and climbing beans – don’t underestimate how vigorous your plants will be! • Earth up potato plants to protect them from frosts, encourage more spuds to form and prevent them becoming green and inedible. • Finish planting new fruit bushes and trees. • Prune fig trees, but wear gloves to protect against the sap. The April issue of BBC Gardeners’ World magazine is on sale now. For more seasonal recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com/ spring Catch up with the BBC Good Food Favourite Recipes Podcast hosted by Miriam. Available to download from Acast, Spotify,…

FUN & GAMES Throw an Easter egg hunt Keep the kids engaged during the holidays with an egg hunt around the house or garden – here’s all you need to know about organising one Pick your style If you’re hosting a classic egg hunt for a larger group of children, you’ll probably want to hide a good number of eggs and let the little ones go free-range. Be sure to make a note of your hiding spots (you don’t want any sticky surprises in a few weeks’ time) and keep a few extra eggs handy in case someone misses out. To entertain your own kids, why not plant clues for your intrepid explorers that lead from one prize to the next? Get creative and make your own scavenger hunt, or…

The last time I baked galaktoboureko – a Greek pudding made with an orange-scented batter and handfuls of dried, flaked filo – I posted a picture of the filo on Instagram asking people to guess what it was. It could have been a bed of white blossom, finely shaved coconut or a beautiful, minimalist type of confetti. Nobody guessed what it was. Usually, when working with it, the idea is not to let the filo dry, as it shatters and you can’t shape it, but these petal-like pieces were lovely to handle. When I look at what the Greeks do with filo, I could weep. There are more Greek pies in my repertoire than British ones whether buttery, golden or sesame seed-strewn, filled with bulgur, feta, big handfuls of pine-flavoured…

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, selects all of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now. Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for other wines can be found at bbcgoodfood.com/ wine-club. Vinas del Vero Series Limitadas Tinto Wine type Spanish Cabernet Syrah blend Characteristics Dark cherries and violets, meaty and juicy Try it with Roast leg of lamb with garlic & watercress butter (p22) Patronus Reserve Barossa Shiraz Wine type Australian Shiraz Characteristics Ripe strawberry fruit, leathery tannin, nutty mature…

1 Lay the fillet, skin-side down, on a board with the tail end facing you. Holding the end, cut into the flesh, stopping before you reach the skin. 2 Turn the blade so it’s almost flat against the skin. Hold the skin with the other hand, pulling it towards you while cutting away the fillet. 3 Halfway through, fold the fillet over to give you a little more room. 4 When you get to the end, gently lift the fillet up and away from the skin, then discard the skin. Find this recipe for our citrus-cured salmon at bbcgoodfood.com THIS MONTH Bake next level hot cross buns, p112 Learn the secrets to cooking with chocolate, p114 Electric whisks on test, p115 Tom Kerridge talks brownies, p117 Get pro tips and…

BEST BUDGET NAME Fearne by Swan 5-speed hand mixer PRICE from £16.99 A big pro for the Swan is its balloon whisk attachment – egg whites whipped with this are more voluminous than those mixed by the beaters. It also performs very well in kneading dough with sturdy attachments that cope well with the weight. While there is no turbo or pulse button, it is powerful and has five speeds. BEST BLOWOUT NAME Dualit CC810 PRICE £59 With its retractable electric cable, the Dualit offers the neatest storage solution of all the mixers we tested. At 400W (like the Fearne), it has decent power, and its extra-long beaters are ideal for reaching to the bottom of deep bowls and jugs. It is quite heavy compared to other mixers, but the…

WE STILL LOVE… TONIC WATER With more flavours popping up all the time, tonic’s not just for gin. These new varieties work well with spirits and in cocktails, but are complex enough to enjoy on their own. We like Franklin & Son’s rosemary tonic water with black olive (£1.29 per 200ml, drinksupermarket.com) and Jeffrey’s yarrow, rosehip & elderflower tonic syrup (£7 per 200ml, jeffreystonic.com). Classic tonic water is a delight with ice and vermouth, port or even a shot of espresso. BAR DICTIONARY: MIXING GLASS A mixing glass is called for when the drink requires dilution and chilling, but doesn’t need the aeration that a cocktail shaker or blender would create. Mixing glasses are often made from thicker-cut glass, and are larger (like a pint glass) with a…

1 Chocolate custard truffles Roll spoonfuls of any leftover chocolate filling from the chocolate pots on page 82 into balls (and any crushed toppings, if you like), then coat in cocoa powder. 2 Asparagus tagliatelle Cook tagliatelle following pack instructions. Drain and reserve a little cooking water. Mix with any leftover asparagus and butter sauce from page 80. Warm over a low heat with the reserved cooking water and grated parmesan. 3 Bean & veg lunch bowl Mix any leftover roasted veg and beans from page 37 with a 400g can chopped tomatoes, dried oregano and a drizzle of olive oil. Bake at 180C/160Cfan/gas 4 for 30 mins until bubbling. 4 Lamb tagliata Carve any cold leftover lamb from page 22 into very thin slices and…

A big push is on to ‘rewild’ Britain. As part of an effort to combat climate change, last year, Sir Ian Boyd – a former government Chief Scientific Officer – called for half of our farmland to be ‘returned to nature’; that is, allowed to revert back to unmanaged woodland and natural habitat. To put the scale of this in perspective, he believes that cattle and sheep numbers in the UK would plunge by 90 per cent. Now, I’m all in favour of planting more trees and using farming techniques that are in harmony with nature, but these extreme rewilding proposals could have a catastrophic impact on our nation’s ability to feed itself. Surely UK food production would plummet if most of our livestock farmers – the people who put…

Lyon “Vieux Lyon’s cobbled streets feel a bit like Diagon Alley” Long considered a gastronomic hotspot thanks to legendary chef Paul Bocuse, its atmospheric ‘bouchon’ bistros and Michelin stars, this elegant city at the edge of the Alps is now home to a bold new culinary destination, Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie (citegastronomielyon.fr). Opened last October, this is a state-of-the-art cultural centre that celebrates all things food. Inside, you’ll find dozens of exciting, interactive exhibits and a tasting kitchen, all of which employ inventive ways to tell the story of Lyon, French gastronomy and food culture around the world. Set on the banks of the Rhône, close to where it converges with the Saône just south of central Lyon, the Cité is set in a wing of the Grand Hôtel-Dieu,…

1st And the winner is... Ross-on-Wye Cider & Perry Company The Johnson family has been growing apples and pears and pressing them for cider and perry since the 1930s on Broome Farm in Peterstow. Father-and-son team Mike and Albert produce an extensive range of ciders and perrys using traditional methods to reflect their unique collection of heritage apples and pears. Albert explains, ‘Although cider is associated with orchards, not all producers are orchard-based. Fewer still have the commitment to expressing the individuality of each variety, but that is at the core of our philosophy. We want cider drinkers to have as much knowledge and appreciation for varieties as wine drinkers do, or even as we are seeing in modern beer with hops. We are producers of high-quality, clean, dry, pure…

star letter This may seem controversial and I’m sure it will annoy many readers, but am I the only one getting frustrated with vegan and vegetarian food being named after well-known, meat-based dishes? I don’t mind who eats what – I love veg, meat, fish, pulses etc – but I don’t understand why there are suddenly cauliflower steaks, chicken-less nuggets and shepherd’s pie without the lamb (last I checked shepherds didn’t herd lentils!). I see advertising for vegan food declaring it, ‘tastes and looks like meat!’ Why not enjoy a vegetable for what it is? Perhaps I’m missing the point but I’d be interested to know what others think. Ellie Martin, Oswestry, Shropshire Ellie wins 12 bottles of customer favourite La Fonte d’Oro (£13.99, bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com). Puglia produces terrific, big, spicy…

@mealsbakesnbreaks Melanie made Gordon Ramsay’s pan-seared duck with pak choi & orange sauce (Feb), and it looks just like Gordon’s! @davey_pickering We’d love a big spoonful of Dave’s lemon drizzle sponge pudding (Feb). @thehappykitchenfood company How good does this version of our spring one-pot roast chicken (March) look? @meganfairbairn123 Check out the beautiful neat layers in Megan’s batch of our coffee walnut millionaire’s shortbread (March).…

NOW WE’RE EATING Einkorn soda bread Discover the ancient grain making a comeback and how to use it at home Einkorn is one of the earliest forms of wheat eaten by humankind. Milled into a flour, it’s rich and nutty in flavour, with a deep biscuity smell once baked into bread or cakes. We’ve seen ancient grains like einkorn becoming more familiar on the food scene recently, with many bakeries incorporating them into their recipes for added flavour. Gail’s (gailsbread.co.uk) offer an einkorn & whey sourdough, and we tried a delicious einkorn soda bread at Stoney Street (26grains. com) in London’s Borough Market, where pastry chef Henrietta Inman heads up the kitchen. The restaurant was recently opened by 26 Grains founder Alex Hely-Hutchinson, who uses an exciting variety of grains…

Veg in cocktails It’s becoming more common to see vegetables in drinks – and we’re not just talking about the celery in a bloody mary. Bars across the country are getting on board with produce-filled tipples; in fact, Bacardi’s 2020 cocktail trends report showed that 91 per cent of bartenders use veg in cocktails. Veg boxes There’s been a surge in online searches for fruit and veg delivery boxes recently, especially as we become more aware of their benefits. These include convenience, a decrease in plastic waste, and the encouragement of seasonal eating. Sichuan cooking This south-western Chinese cuisine is having a moment. Following the success of Fuchsia Dunlop’s The Food of Sichuan, we’ve noticed more Sichuan-style dishes and ingredients on restaurant menus, sites and social media feeds. Alternative flours…

GIN Hyke gin Foxhole Spirits specialises in sustainable spirits, distilling drinks from otherwise unused resources. Its Hyke gin is made with grapes that are surplus to the requirements of the supermarket supply chain and would otherwise be wasted. Flavoured with a blend of botanicals including coriander, myrrh, rooibos, juniper, cardamom and lemon zest, it takes some of its flavour inspiration from Africa and South America, from where the grapes originate. The result is a silky smooth, clean-tasting gin with a juniper-led flavour and notes of citrus and spice. 40% ABV, £24 (50cl), Tesco CORDIAL Jukes Cordialities Launched by wine taster and writer Matthew Jukes, these grown-up cordials are an alcohol-free alternative to wine designed to be paired with food. The addition of apple cider vinegar brings sharpness and complexity, and…

NADIYA’S AMERICAN MELTING POT Nadiya Hussain meets families in California and Louisiana who are keeping the traditions of their homelands alive through food – just as Nadiya’s family did when they moved to Britain. Plus, she cooks dishes she discovers along the way. Starts this spring on BBC One and BBC iPlayer. MASTERCHEF Following the fine dining and street food challenges in Mauritius, the final four contestants compete to recreate the extraordinary confections of top pastry chef Albert Adrià, and cook their own interpretation of a classic dessert. It all comes to a close in the final on Friday 17 April on BBC One and BBC iPlayer. Kathryn Custance…

CHOCOLATE NESTS Crush 100 g shredded wheat cereal in a large mixing bowl. Melt 200 g dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl in short bursts in the microwave. Mix together and press into the holes of a lightly oiled mini mu›in tin or cupcake cases. Leave to set for 2 hrs. Fill with mini . eggs WHITE CHOCOLATE BUTTONS Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Melt 150 white g chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Spoon small puddles of the chocolate onto the parchment. Sprinkle with hundreds and thousands, if you like. Chill in the fridge until set. COOKIES If you don’t want to bake cookies, use only plain flour to make the cookie dough layer, halving the rest of the ingredients, and buy…

SERVES 6-8 PREP 25 mins COOK 6-8 hrs EASY * 3 tbsp olive oil 500g beef mince 1 onion, finely chopped 1 celery stick, finely chopped 1 large red pepper, thickly sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 tsp dried oregano 2-3 tbsp chipotle chilli paste 3 tbsp tomato purée 400g can chopped tomatoes 400ml beef stock 2 x 400g can black beans, drained 4 small squares dark chocolate cooked rice, tortilla chips and soured cream, to serve 1 Set the slow cooker to low. Heat 11/2 tbsp oil in a large, non-stick pan over a high heat and fry the mince for 10-12 mins or until evenly browned. Tip into the slow cooker. 2 Heat the remaining oil in the pan.…

Purple sprouting broccoli with tahini miso dressing SERVES 4 as a side PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V Grate a thumb-sized piece of ginger into a small bowl and add 2 tbsp tahini, 2 tsp miso paste, 1 tsp honey, the juice of 1 lemon and 3-4 tbsp water. Whisk until you have a runny, creamy dressing. Adjust the honey or lemon to your liking, then add a little more water to loosen, if it’s still too thick. Steam or boil 400g purple sprouting broccoli for 4-5 mins or until the stems are tender, then divide between plates and drizzle over the dressing. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 97 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 5g •…

April Fool’s Day 1 April If you’re stuck for fun prank ideas to play on friends and family this year, search ‘spooky truffles’ on bbcgoodfood.com. These were created for Halloween, but this sweet roulette game is also ideal for April Fool’s. International Carrot Day 4 April Try our no-prep braised carrots on page 26, or the moreish carrot cake monkey bread recipe on page 90. Good Friday 10 April Mark the day with Tom Kerridge’s traditional fish supper menu on page 78. Easter 12 April Celebrate with Esther Clark’s cookie dough cheesecake (this month’s stunning cover star). Get the recipe on page 28. National Tea Day 21 April Head to page 112 for Barney Desmazery’s next level hot cross buns. They’re the perfect treat to enjoy with a cuppa. St…

1 COOKIE CHUNKS Break up chocolate into large chunks and add to cookie dough, along with a handful of dried fruit, if you like. 2 ROCKY ROAD Mix up broken biscuits, chocolate and mini marshmallows into rocky road, then decorate with colourful chocolate eggs or other Easter sweets. 3 DIPPED FRUIT Gently melt some chocolate, then dip in strawberries, raspberries or banana slices. Kids can enjoy them straightaway, or leave to set in the fridge first. 4 CORNFLAKE CAKES For an Easter twist on this classic treat, add crushed wheat cereal, then decorate the top with chocolate eggs to make a bird’s nest. 5 CHOCOLATE BARK Reinvent leftover chocolate by melting it down and transforming it into a fancy bark. Decorate with sweets, small chocolates, sprinkles, or whatever you like.…

South American-style quinoa with fried eggs SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V 75g quinoa 400g can black beans, drained 1/2 tsp ground cumin 1/2 tsp ground coriander 1 lime, zested and juiced, plus extra wedges to serve 1 tsp cider vinegar 160g cherry tomatoes, halved 1 small avocado, stoned, peeled and roughly chopped 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander 3 spring onions or1/2 small red onion, finely chopped rapeseed oil, for frying 2 medium eggs 1 Put the quinoa in a small pan with 250ml water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and gently simmer for 15-20 mins, stirring occasionally until most of the water has been absorbed and the grains have doubled in size (if there’s any water left in the…

Slow cooker butter chicken “Stuffed-crust pizza has to be one of my favourite teenage discoveries” My go-to choice at the Indian takeaway has always been a creamy butter chicken. Mild, fragrant and rich, this recipe really fits the bill. It can be started on a Friday morning, then left to slowly simmer away until you get home from work. I serve mine with hot mango chutney and garlic naans. SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus at least 1 hr chilling COOK 6-7 hrs EASY * 500g skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into large chunks 2 tbsp butter or ghee 1 large onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and grated 1 tsp garam masala 2 tsp fenugreek 3 tbsp tomato purée…

Encouraged by my three environmentally-aware teenage children, I want to cut down on the amount of meat we eat. Not to cut out meat entirely, but adopt a more ‘flexitarian’ approach. According to research by retail shopping app Ubamarket, 32% of Brits are consciously trying to eat less meat for reasons ranging from their health to the environmental impact of the agriculture industry, plus 36% of meat-eaters now buy vegetarian and vegan products. Even fast-food giants KFC, McDonald’s and Greggs now offer vegan options. But as someone who was a housedad for the formative years of my kids’ lives, and thus responsible for feeding them healthy, nutritious meals, I’ve always been nervous about a purely plant-based approach. Growing kids need protein, and meat, of course, is a great source of…

Rosary Available in a roughly 20cm log, rindless and brilliantly white, this is so soft when young, it has the feel of mousse and tastes of summer. Rosary is made at the beginning of the cheesemaking road, with the curds only just set. Trickle This is an unpasteurised goat’s milk cheese in the shape of a camembert, but without the rind. It looks like flattened pizza dough, but the flavours are complex, with lemon giving way to single cream and a light ‘goaty’ note. Golden Cross Ripened using a camembert white rind, Golden Cross is a multi-award-winning fresh cheese. It has a savoury gooeyness that develops a few millimetres under the skin. Thanks to academyofcheese.org and paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk…

1 WHAT DOES ‘LOW ALCOHOL’ OR ‘LOW ABV’ MEAN? IS THERE A SET THRESHOLD? For a product to be considered ‘low alcohol’ it has to be 1.2% ABV (alcohol by volume) or less. When it comes to low-ABV cocktails, the lines are slightly blurred – it’s a bit of a grey area, as it’s such a new category. For example, a negroni is 25% ABV – people generally say that drinks under 10% ABV are ‘low alcohol’ (less than a glass of wine) and anything under 5% ABV is beer territory. 2 HOW DO YOU CALCULATE A COCKTAIL’S ABV? The equation is the volume of strong alcohol times the ABV percentage of that alcohol, divided by the sum of the ingredients and multiplied by 100. So, let’s say you are…

“My favourite sips are those taken in the lull before everyone sits down” Eating together is supposed to be an act of shared closeness, but in a family situation it can also be about as relaxing as careering down a rickety helter-skelter with no mat and a flappy scarf. My own gatherings are currently dominated by two- and three-year-olds, which means adult conversation happens in 12-second bursts, and is interspersed by management of food fights, food refusals and requests for attention; some of them delivered via the prongs of a fork. As chief glass-filler, I have learnt that, at Easter and Christmas (and any other occasion when we all get together), wine choices need to be pragmatic. This is not the time for a bottle that needs a single word…

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What is rhubarb? Despite being commonly thought of as a fruit, rhubarb is in fact a vegetable. It’s a close relative of sorrel. What to look out for Maincrop rhubarb, in season from March to June, can be tougher and stringier than forced rhubarb, which is available earlier in the year, between January and February. Rhubarb leaves should never be eaten, as they contain a poison called oxalic acid. Health benefits Rhubarb is a good source of vitamin K and fibre. It also contains vitamin C. Use sweet, tangy rhubarb in our refreshing rhubarb spritz recipe on page 121.…

Left Field Kombucha, a small craft brewer from the Scottish Borders, is one of the latest additions to the BBC Good Food Show line-up. Geraint, a former beer brewer, and wife Jo began experimenting with fermentation in their kitchen in 2016, making their own kombucha in the process. The tea-loving pair established Scotland’s first kombucha brewery in Eyemouth, a town with a history of tea smuggling, after selling their brew from kegs at local markets. They now ship kombucha across the UK. The pair say ‘the tea is entirely the star’ – instead of adding flavours to a base tea like many kombucha brewers do, they let the tea ‘do the talking’. Left Field uses ethically sourced teas from around the world, including Chinese yunnan black and Japanese green sencha.…

Bitter Honey by Letitia Clark (£26, Hardie Grant, out 30 April) Chef and food writer Letitia Clark’s book intertwines traditional Sardinian recipes with stories from the island, giving a beautiful insight into how Sardinians cook, eat and live. It begins with aperetivo dishes, like grilled aubergine with ricotta salata & mint, before moving on to hearty pastas, risottos, fish dishes and desserts. Must-try recipe Pumpkin, ricotta & chilli ravioli with brown butter & sage The Pastry Chef’s Guide by Ravneet Gill (£18.99, Pavilion Books) After working as a pastry chef in some of London’s top restaurants, Ravneet Gill has written her first book, in which she shares secrets for achieving perfect pastry. Ideal for home cooks, this is a complete guide to baking, which includes an enlightening theory section as…

Charred cauliflower, lemon & caper orzo SERVES 1, plus 1 lunchbox PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V 1/2 cauliflower, broken into florets, stalk chopped into cubes 2 tsp olive oil 100g orzo 2 tsp capers, drained and rinsed 1 small garlic clove, sliced 1/2 lemon, zested and juiced 100ml low-salt vegetable stock (check it’s vegan, if required) handful of rocket leaves, to serve ■ Heat the grill to high. Toss the cauliflower with half the oil and some seasoning. Tip onto a baking tray and grill for 15-20 mins until golden, charred, and tender all the way through. ■ Meanwhile, cook the orzo in a pan of boiling salted water for 8 mins, or until al dente. Drain. ■ Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and…

the dilemma Lamb is quite expensive – is there anything else I can serve for Easter lunch that’s a bit cheaper? the solution A spring-inspired pot pie will be just as pleasing as a roast without having to cost a lot. Make a pack of chicken thighs feed six with a hearty, crowd-pleasing pastry top. You can still serve it with roast potatoes if you just can’t go without! I think I prefer Easter to Christmas – there’s the chocolate and the groaning dinner table, but a glut of new-season vegetables as an added bonus (and less of the chaos). While lamb is traditional for Easter lunch, seasonally speaking, spring lamb isn’t available on shelves until June, as the lambing season begins in mid-March. Some British lamb can be born…

Chocolate chip traybake CUTS INTO 32 pieces PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 30 mins EASY V 190ml rapeseed oil, plus extra for the tin 250g plain flour 80g cocoa powder 3 tsp baking powder 300g light brown soft sugar 350ml whole milk 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 large eggs 100g white chocolate chips For the icing 150g butter, cubed 200g icing sugar, sieved 4 tsp cocoa powder 2 tbsp milk 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Oil the base and sides of a 33 x 23cm roasting tin that’s at least 21/2cm deep. Line with baking parchment. Combine the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, sugar and a good pinch of salt in a large bowl. Break up any sugar lumps with a whisk. 2 Whisk the…

DISCOVER Do I need to eat during my run? Performance nutritionist James Collins explains different fuel needs during training. Under one hour As long as you’ve eaten enough in the day, there’s no need to refuel during a shorter run – focus on fuelling properly before your run instead. Over one hour For harder, longer runs, consuming small amounts of high-GI carbs (such as sports drinks, energy gels, jellied sweets or a low-fibre, carbohydrate-rich energy bar) can help maintain performance. For a race Carbohydrate-rich food and drinks can be a useful tool during a race. Practice consuming carbohydrates during your last eight weeks of training to find out what works best for you. Carbohydrates also provide important fuel for the brain, which allows the body to keep working when muscles…

Good Friday is my favourite bank holiday of the year. Unlike the Monday ones (which have that back-to-work-tomorrow feeling about them), Good Friday holds so much potential for the weekend ahead – another reason to celebrate. But, as it’s a Friday, chances are you won’t have time to do a special shop, so this is a supermarket-friendly menu. It’s seasonal and includes a classic method for cooking fish, but it’s also been designed to be as easy as possible, so you won’t need three days to recover from cooking it. Happy Easter! Tom Bay-crumbed salmon with creamed spinach & wild mushrooms I love serving roasted salmon with creamed spinach and a light white wine and mushroom sauce, but rather than making all of the elements separately, I’ve brought them together…

Turkey meatballs in tomato sauce are light as a and seem to invite confessions, like when my dear friend, singer-songwriter Sam Smith, explained they thought that Mexico was in Spain while we fed these beauties to them on the podcast. Jessie SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr EASY 90g fresh white breadcrumbs 75ml whole milk 500g turkey thigh mince 2 garlic cloves, crushed or finely grated 1 lemon, zested 1 egg, beaten 40g pecorino or parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to serve 2 tsp finely chopped oregano, or 1 tsp dried oregano grating of nutmeg For the tomato sauce 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 heaped tbsp tomato purée 1 tsp paprika 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes large handful…

CHOCOLATE PERCENTAGES The key to understanding chocolate is that the higher the cocoa percentage, the less sweet it is. This is because more cocoa means fewer milk solids, which naturally contain sugar. If you’re baking, you’ll probably be adding sugar, so it’s best to use chocolate with a higher percentage of cocoa. While this doesn’t guarantee it’s high quality, it is a good indicator. HOW TO MELT CHOCOLATE On the hob Melting chocolate on the hob is the most controlled method. It’s important to make sure your chocolate never comes into contact with the water, which will cause it to ‘seize’ (see right). • Pour water into a medium saucepan to a depth of about 4cm. Put over a medium heat and bring to a gentle simmer. • Put a…

A brownie is so easy to make; whack it together, stick it in a tray and it doesn’t really matter if it’s undercooked. It’s not like a cake – we’re not trying to make a sponge here and needing to check that it’s risen properly and all level. The beautiful thing about a brownie is that it’s uneven; it has to have that crisp top and a squidgy middle, but there’s nothing exact or precise about it. Create layers of flavour . You can flavour a brownie with lots of different ingredients; you can put chilli in it, you could put herbs through it (mint would be beautiful, or infuse bay leaf in the butter as you melt it), and salt – we all love salted caramel. Flavours should come…

1 My favourite gadget is a Thermomix. They’re incredible, even in a professional environment, and are perfect for slow cooking, blending and even breadmaking. But, if we’re talking the opposite end of the price spectrum, it’s a microplane – I love to grate cheese using one, as it looks very professional. It also creates the finest lemon zest. 2 A pinch of sumac will take your cooking to the next level. It has a subtle, tangy lemon flavour, so you’re adding acidity but it isn’t as harsh as straight lemon juice. It’s excellent on so many things – sprinkle it on cooked fish, or use in salads. 3 Cauliflower frittata is my go-to four-ingredient recipe. Finely chop half a cauliflower (leaves and all), then cook down with some olive oil…

1 FILLING YOUR KETTLE When you’re making a cuppa, only boil as much water as you need. The Energy Saving Trust says overfilled kettles cost UK households £68million a year in energy bills. Switch to an eco kettle, too – they use 20 per cent less energy than conventional electric. 2 STOP BUYING SINGLE-USE PLASTIC Use up what you have already, then invest in reusable items. The more times you use an item, the better its value becomes, so even though a wax wrap might be pricier, it’s probably a better investment – you can use it in more ways. Instead of using cling film to wrap food for storage, you can use beeswax (or vegan) food wraps, reusable storage boxes (make sure they fit the food tightly so it…

Oh, how they laughed! You join me at a street-food event where, baffled by the ‘biscuit’ listed on the menu in a braised short-rib dish, my friends are asking me for clarification. Momentarily, I blank. I am stumped. Apparently, this is hilarious. ‘I thought you were a food writer?!’ runs the ensuing bantz. That I remembered what this US scone-muffin hybrid is, quicker than anyone could Google it, did nothing to quell the ‘call yourself an expert’ hilarity. Me? I shrugged. Whatever! This is not indifference to the question. It’s me cutting myself some slack. We all should. At any time, I have around 10,427 food factoids pinging around my noggin. That figure grows annually as some details embed themselves forever and, inevitably, others are forgotten. Consequently, I would never…

Following a very successful residency at 10 Heddon Street, Chris Leach and David Carter have opened permanent spot Manteca in Soho. The Italian menu features fresh pasta and meat in equal measure: the silky mortadella is made in-house, as is the hand-rolled garganelli and ravioli (p143). Starters include crisp and crunchy pink fir apple potatoes dipped in smoked cod roe, and pig’s head fritti. If you’ve still got room left for dessert, try the stunning pink rhubarb tart (p143). mantecarestaurant.co.uk @manteca_london Orange campari MAKES 1 PREP 5 mins EASY V Pour 50ml Campari and 50ml blood orange juice into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well, then double-strain into a small cocktail glass. Garnish with a dried blood orange slice, if you like (see tip, below). GOOD TO KNOW gluten…

Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, high welfare chicken and eggs produced under the British Lion Code of Practice, and sustainably sourced fish. We avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. If egg size is important, we’ll state it in the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily…