Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Good Food

September marks a gentle change in the seasons. When we’re lucky, summer continues into the month and memories of sunny holidays are kept alive by the warmth and aroma of cooking with cumin, saffron, paprika and other spices from around the world. Boost your skills and transform your kitchen into a Moroccan souk or Caribbean beach shack by mastering the five easy spice mixes in this issue. The key is to use the mixes soon after blending, so we’ve included ways to add them to everyday dishes, too. We love sharing food and wine with friends, so we hope you’ll join us at our next #bbcgfeatsout event at José Pizarro Broadgate – details on page 47. I look forward to sharing a glass of cava with you.…

Each month we explore a restaurant trend, highlighting key dishes and ingredients. Here, Wei Shao, owner of BaoziInn, London ( baoziinn.com ), guides us through traditional dishes and ingredients of the Chinese provinces of Hunan and Sichuan and how they’re served at the restaurant. Sichuan pepper A real favourite when it comes to Northern Chinese cooking. Rather than giving off pure heat, Sichuan pepper causes a tingling sensation in the mouth and is said to stimulate circulation and aid appetite. Chef ’s special house-made soy sauce Chinese soy sauce infused with star anise, bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves and other herbs and spices. This sauce is used in many dishes at BaoziInn, but most notably it’s poured over prawn wonton dumplings, the restaurant’s most celebrated…

I honestly don’t think there’s another town like Harrogate in the UK. I’m extremely fortunate to be in an area that grows some of the best produce in the UK, from fruit and veg to amazing Yorkshire beef. My three favourite dishes on the menu at Restaurant 92 are the Yorkshire squab with grains, beetroot and horseradish. For those new to game, this is the perfect introduction – rich but not overpowering. Our beef Wellington is famous. We serve it year-round. For dessert, it’s the 92 millionaire – my take on millionaire’s shortbread, made with salted caramel and Caramac ganache. Restaurant 92 prides itself on using all local Yorkshire ingredients. I often forage for wild garlic, chanterelle mushrooms, elderflower and wild thyme in the fields around Harrogate. One of our…

So, you think you know about cheese? Know your cheddars from your comte, your stilton from your stichelton? Artisan makers are giving us more varieties than ever before and there are dedicated festivals, roving cheese trucks and three awards events to reward the very best – our own magazines editor, Keith Kendrick, was a judge at the recent British Cheese Awards. But, let’s face it, so much choice can be daunting. Enter stage left, the Academy of Cheese, set up by leading curd nerds to educate our palates and offer tips on how to store and serve, including advice on matching cheeses with drinks. Among this passionate bunch, legendary cheesemaker Mary Quicke came up with the idea of a recognised UK standard of accreditation for professional chefs and retailers. She…

Chris runs the Real Bread Campaign, including #SourdoughSeptember and #RealBreadWeek. He’s also author of the microbakery guide Knead to Know and recipe book Slow Dough: Real Bread. The Campaign welcomes everyone to join via sustainweb.org/realbread. @RealBread Grignette or lame for slashing dough, £3.50, bakerybits.co.uk Want eye-catching slashes across your bread without the health and safety challenge of a razorblade tied to a coffee stirrer? Then try this nifty little tool. Vogue plastic dough scraper, 99p, nisbets.co.uk One or two of these cheap, flexible friends are really handy for cutting, removing and generally wrangling dough. Salter Arc Pro stainless steel electronic kitchen scale, £14.99, John Lewis Exact measurements are a great starting or reference point when looking at what went wrong (or right).…

Coffee & spice grinder This compact machine uses a powerful 200W motor to drive the durable stainless-steel blades. The grinder has a 75g capacity and can be used to grind whole spices such as cinnamon and peppercorns, seeds such as chia, poppy and flax, and it is suitable for all kinds of nuts as well as coffee beans. Simply add your ingredients and hold down the on/off switch – it grinds in just 30 seconds. Product code G2252. HOW TO ORDER To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 84779 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/84779…

‘Indian spices have always been closely connected to magic, cultural traditions, preservation and medicine since early human history. Although Indian spices are easily available today, there was a time when wars were fought by the Romans to ensure that the trade route to India remained open to them. Some of the more widely used spices today are turmeric and cumin. Turmeric comes from the turmeric plant, and is heavily used in Indian curries to provide flavour. It is said to aid disorders such as arthritis and joint pain, while cumin, usually in the form of seeds or ground powder, adds a subtle smoky flavour to dishes, aids digestion and is high in iron.’ Kiran is a second generation British Asian who makes curry bases. Her company, Kiran’s Kitchen (…

Barbecue chicken & blue cheese wedges One-pan cooking makes this a weeknight staple. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY 2 sweet potatoes (400g) 1 tbsp oil 2 chicken breasts 5 tbsp barbecue sauce 75g stilton • Scrub the sweet potatoes and cut each into six wedges. Spread out on a baking sheet, drizzle with the oil, season and roast at 200C/180Cfan/gas 6 for 20 mins. • Lightly bash the breasts between two pieces of cling film until about 1cm thick. Put the chicken in a bowl and coat in the barbecue sauce. Add the chicken to the baking sheet, return to the oven for 10 mins, then crumble the cheese over the potatoes and bake for 5 mins more until bubbling. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER…

Sticky orange chicken stir-fry A great weeknight stir-fry option that allows you to pack in the veg. The sweet, sticky orange sauce that is used to finish this dish also works really well with chicken, pork or tofu. SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 10 mins EASY 2 garlic cloves, finely grated thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and finely grated 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 1 tsp Chinese five-spice 1 tsp sesame oil 6 skinless chicken thigh fillets, cut into bite-sized pieces 1-2 tbsp sunflower oil, for frying 1 red onion, thinly sliced 100g sugar snap peas 100g Tenderstem broccoli, halved widthways (and lengthways, if thick) 2 carrots, julienned 100g salted peanuts, to garnish For the sauce ½ orange, juiced 3 tbsp honey 1 tsp dark brown soft sugar 2 tbsp…

Super-salad wraps The trick to an exciting salad wrap is to make sure the veg is crunchy or has texture and that there’s something with a good hit of flavour in it as well. We’ve added cheese to this one, but you could just as easily add tuna, chicken or egg. Make sure the fillings aren’t too wet or they’ll drip out and make a mess. Take to school in: lunchboxes or wax wraps SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V 1 tortilla 2 tbsp hummus 1 lettuce leaf ¼ carrot, shredded or grated 4 cucumber sticks and/or 2 avocado slices 1 tbsp fresh tomato salsa or chopped tomatoes handful grated cheddar 1 Lay the tortilla flat on a board, spread the hummus on the bottom…

DISCOVER How does diet affect migraines? Migraines affect around one in five women and one in 15 men. It’s thought that certain foods can trigger an attack, but is this true? Professor Peter Goadsby from the NIHR-Wellcome Trust King’s Clinical Research Facility in London, gives us the facts. Generally, specific foods don’t trigger migraines, with the exception of two categories – alcohol, and foods that contain nitrates, such as cured meats. Foods such as cheese and chocolate have been considered ‘triggers’, but we now know that food cravings are part of the early stages of the migraine. Often, eating these foods is a symptom, rather than a cause, of migraines. Regular sleep, meals and exercise help avoid migraines. You’re more likely to have an attack when you deviate from regularity.…

Miso roast salmon, lentil & pomegranate salad SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY 80g dried puy lentils 1 tsp miso paste 2 tsp finely grated ginger 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 lime, zested and juiced 1 tsp rapeseed oil ½ tsp black/white sesame seeds 2 x 150g skinless wild salmon fillets 1 tsp apple cider vinegar 2 carrots, cut into fine strips with a julienne peeler or knife 60g pomegranate seeds 3 spring onions, finely sliced handful fresh coriander, chopped 1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cook the lentils in a pan of boiling water for 20 mins until tender. Meanwhile, mix the miso paste with 1 tsp of the ginger, the garlic, juice of half the lime, oil and sesame seeds. Put the salmon…

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, tasted his way through over 100 wines to choose our Wine Club selection. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His first book, Empire of Booze, is out now. Von Reben Riesling 2017 This wine comes from one of the warmer parts of Germany, Rheinhessen, where the grapes become very ripe. Limes are the first thing that jump out of the glass, then when you taste it there’s apple blossom, peaches and a little honey, all balanced by an electric charge of acidity. Those vivid flavours would be a great match for Vietnamese food…

For the paste 1 tsp coriander seeds ½ tsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp shrimp paste 3 garlic cloves, chopped 3 shallots, peeled and chopped handful coriander stalks, roughly chopped 12 green bird's-eye chillies, deseeded if you don't like it very hot half a thumb-sized piece galangal, chopped half a finger-sized piece turmeric, roughly chopped 2 sticks lemongrass, chopped For the curry 2 x 400g cans coconut milk 1 tbsp light brown soft sugar 6 skinless chicken thighs, roughly chopped 4 lime leaves, scrunched 2 tbsp fish sauce 100g green beans, cut in half 1-2 limes (to taste), cut in half handful Thai basil leaves 1 red chilli, finely sliced cooked jasmine rice, to serve…

350ml vinegar red wine, white wine, malt, white, or cider Bring to the boil with… 50g sugar – caster, golden caster, light or dark demerara + 1 tsp of dried spice seeds or a few whole large spice cumin, coriander, mustard, fennel seeds, cinnamon stick, or star anise Leave to cool and pack into a jar with… 500g veg or hard fruit – carrots, cucumbers, pears, turnips, onions, radishes, cabbage, green beans, cauliflower, or beetroot + fresh flavours sliced chilli, ginger, garlic, fresh bay, dill, rosemary or thyme Will keep for up to three months…

Chalkdown dry sparkling cider 2014, £12.99, laithwaites.co.uk Green apple deliciousness combines with honeyed, yeasty notes like you might get in an English sparkling wine. Better than prosecco. Find & Foster Pétillant Naturel, £15.20, shop. beerzoo.co.uk An ancient technique called keeving gives this one a cooked sweetness like apple pie, beautifully offset by acidity, a little tannin and a spicy, almost aniseed taste. New Forest Kingston Black, £15.50 for three bottles, newforestcider.co.uk Made from a great UK cider apple, Kingston Black, it’s packed with fruit. Tastes even better out of the barrel at Borough Market. Oliver’s at the Hop #7, £4, oliversciderandperry.co.uk You wouldn't think it could work but delicious citrus and floral notes from Cascade hops…

“I want people to realise that Syrians can be good neighbours. If they think ‘I like their food,’they may change their minds about us as people” I mad Alarnab is a cook. He opened his first café in Damascus, Syria, in 2000, and over the next 10 years built up a series of popular restaurants. In 2011, as the war escalated, many of his outlets were bombed, some of his workers killed, others kidnapped, and by 2014 he knew he and his family were in real danger. He took a boat to Greece – one of 54 people in a nine-person dinghy – then walked through Serbia and Macedonia to Hungary. From there, this respected restaurateur travelled in the back of a truck or held on underneath lorries, and eventually…

“Six miles of pipes were laid to bring in a water supply and the growing season is inverted to run through autumn and winter” They grow okra and coriander here. There are fields of sugar cane and soya beans, palms and tropical fruit trees heavy with banana, guava and papaya, none of which makes this the most obvious place in which to grow wine grapes, which usually flourish in a cooler climate. Certainly, when Italian winemaker Piero Masi arrived amidst the dusty hills of Solapur in Maharashtra in central India, his initial feeling was that the idea of making wine here was pure folly. Now there are 240 acres of vineyards in this remote territory; and a barrel-aged red that Masi makes here from sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon that sells…

CAN COOK C.I.C, LIVERPOOL Can Cook C.I.C teaches children the importance of healthy eating and cooking to help tackle food poverty. Last year, they trained around 800 children to cook. POSSOBILITIES, GLASGOW Possobilities runs after-school cookery classes for young people with disabilities. Children are taught to follow a recipe, shop for ingredients, cook them and eat what they’ve created together. SWANSEA COMMUNITY FARM The Community Farm runs the ‘Growing Stronger’ project for children facing disadvantage. Spending time outdoors tending to animals, growing crops and learning how to cook gives them a unique opportunity to learn about a working farm and grow in confidence. CORNFIELD ECO WARRIORS CLUB, COLERAINE Occupying a garden and an allotment, Cornfield Eco Warriors Club teaches children about the benefits of living a healthy life by growing…

Get tips and inspiration for foodie breaks away. This month we’re making the most of harvest season in the New Forest, Andalusia and California, enjoying street food and natural wines in Copenhagen and sampling Somalian pancakes in Bristol A beautiful, relaxed waterside city packed with street-food stalls, cute coffee shops, bountiful bakeries, and some of the world’s best restaurants, Copenhagen is undoubtedly one of the great foodie capitals. It was put firmly on the global gastronomic map when a little restaurant called Noma (noma.dk) was first crowned Best Restaurant in the World in 2010. Noma’s influence cannot be underestimated and traces of the New Nordic Cuisine it helped kickstart can be found all over the city, from the use of seasonal, foraged ingredients to the dominance of natural wine. Whilst…

Joanna Blythman’s article discussing sweeteners (July) had a lot of responses in agreement… I totally agree with @JoannaBlythman article in @bbcgoodfood – fake sugars are a bad choice! I’m intolerant anyway. Cutting out sugar awakens the taste buds to natural sweetness. Fruit-infused water and cold brew teas are good alternatives to soft drinks. #bbcgfopinion #paleo Claire Wilkins @Nynaeve2k I completely agree with Joanna Blythman. I think the key to the obesity crisis is to move away from the dependency on sweetness towards the true and delicious flavour of food which is revealed when you remove the sugar and sweetness that masks it. I think many would agree that to reduce the nation’s sugar intake, we must prevent children becoming hooked on high sugar foods in the first place. Joanna Evans,…

HOT TREND Acorns A symbol of life and luck, discover why acorns are also inspiring chefs and food producers HOT TREND: ACORNS Trends aren’t necessarily new ideas – acorn kernels are an ancient foodstuff and now, both an ingredient and an inspiration in modern cooking. Chef Ollie Dabbous (formerly of Dabbous and now at the helm of Hide) was early off the mark in 2014 with his acorn praline, served with barbecued Ibérico pork. If you’ve eaten Ibérico pork, then you’ll have tasted that nutty background flavour already – Ibérian pigs eat a lot of acorns. In 2016 Agern (Danish for acorn) opened in New York, a nod to an indigenous culinary foodstuff in Scandinavia. Fast-forward to 2018 and Instagram favourite acorn pudding is on the menu at Hide, acorn…

rCUP, £12, Waitrose The UK’s first reusable coffee cup made from other cups! Both discarded paper cups and their plastic lids are used in its manufacture. At the end of its life (estimated at 10 years) it’s 100% recyclable. Not only is it a sustainable choice, it’s also 100% leakproof. Huskup, £10.95, huskup.com Available in various designs, this coffee cup is made from rice husks (the outer hull of the rice grain), a material that would otherwise be burnt at the mill, making this cup another sustainable choice. The cup is also durable, free from plastic and completely biodegradable. Zuperzozial biodegradable cruising travel mug, £10.50, trouva.com This travel mug is made from a blend of bamboo fibre and corn starch and strengthened…

Proper dunkers Now these biscuits are definitely double… triple…. quadruple… alright, I’ll stop there… proper dunkers. MAKES approx 25-30 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V * 165g unsalted butter, cold, cubed 225g plain wholemeal flour 225g coarse or medium oatmeal 80g light brown soft sugar 100g raisins 1 tsp white wine vinegar 100ml whole milk 20g runny honey 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 200g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into chunks You will need a 7cm biscuit cutter 1 Place the butter in a large bowl with the flour, oatmeal and sugar. Rub the mixture with your fingertips until it resembles breadcrumbs. Tip in your raisins and stir. Combine the vinegar, milk, honey and bicarbonate of soda in a separate bowl and give it a good mix.…

Sight, Smell, Touch, Taste, Sound by Sybil Kapoor (£24, Pavilion Books) A fascinating look at the benefits of multi-sensory cooking. Learn how the temperature of a frittata affects its flavour, or why it’s best to add bittersweet chocolate to brownies. Put science into practice with delicious everyday recipes. Must-try recipe Blackened salmon with pineapple salsa Cooking South of the Clouds by Georgina Freedman (£25, Kyle Books) A beautiful collection of recipes and stories from China’s Yunnan Province, an extraordinary, diverse region with a unique blend of cultures and cuisine. From noodle soups to stuffed momos, discover another side to Chinese cooking. Must-try recipe Home-style stir-fried pork with garlic chives Salt, Butter, Bones by Nicole Pisani (£25, Seven Dials) From a former top…

BEER GOGGLES Woodforde’s Gold Here’s a craft beer to enjoy in the late summer sunshine: Bure Gold, a light and refreshing golden ale from Norfolk-based Woodforde’s brewery. Named by one of the company’s customers, the beer is brewed using a blend of three malt types – pale, lager and caramalt – and three UKgrown hops, First Gold, English Golding and Challenger. The result is a light and delicate ale that’s perfect with fish – or on its own. woodfordes.co.uk GIN CORNER Malfy con Limone Keep summer alive for longer with this refreshing Italian gin. Malfy con Limone is produced near Turin and it’s the peel of tart Sfusato lemons from the Amalfi coast that give it zing. Try it in a white negroni: shake 2 parts Malfy con Limone with…

The world-famous bar scene that the UK enjoys today owes a lot to the work of one man: bartender Dick Bradsell. One of his most popular creations was, and still is, the bramble, which is essentially a gin sour spiked with an eye-catching shot of blackberry liqueur. SERVES 1 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY 50ml gin 25ml lemon juice 3/4 tbsp sugar syrup ice cubes crushed ice 3/4 tbsp crème de mure 1 lemon slice and a blackberry (if in season) to serve Shake the gin, lemon juice and sugar syrup in a cocktail shaker with a good handful of ice cubes then strain into a rocks glass full of crushed ice. Drizzle the crème de mure over the top so it ‘bleeds’ into the drink. Garnish with the…

‘Moroccan food is truly exquisite. The taste is often subtle, layered with just a handful of spices and herbs. The cuisine is a mix of Arabic and Berber, the original inhabitants of the region. It’s also peppered with a little French and Spanish influence. Moroccans today shy away from flavours that are too punchy, instead favouring warming ginger, smoky paprika and earthy cumin. The more opulent tagines of the imperial kitchens use saffron, ras el hanout, chermoula and baharat, a woody mix of seven spices, for a more indulgent flavour.’ John is a chef, food writer and presenter who specialises in North African cooking. His latest cookbook, Orange, Blossom & Honey is out now (£19.99, Kyle Books).…

‘Cajun food comes from Louisiana. It is a state of two cuisines – Cajun and Creole. The Cajuns are Acadian émigrés, who left Canada when the Brits pushed them out, and the Creoles descendants from intercontinental immigrants – mainly Europe and West Africa. Cajun food is hotter, Creole more complex, and often redder with paprika and tomato. At Plaquemine Lock we boil seafood in seasoned and spiced water, coat chicken and fish in butter and spice and grill it until the spice blackens. The base flavours – black pepper, red pepper, dried herbs and alliums – are a consistent thread that runs through the two cuisines.’ Jacob is chef/publican of Plaquemine Lock ( plaqlock.com ), a pub in London’s Islington serving authentic Cajun-Creole cooking.…

2 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tbsp black peppercorns 1 tbsp dried thyme 1 tsp dried ground ginger 2 dried bay leaves 8 allspice berries 1½ tsp cayenne pepper ½ nutmeg, grated Island-style ham, pineapple egg & chips Sweet and spicy jerk-style spices work well with salty meats, such as ham. You could easily increase the quantities here and glaze a larger couple of hocks, if you can get hold of them. Cassie SERVES 4-6 PREP 25 mins COOK 2 hrs EASY 1kg piece unsmoked boneless gammon 1 litre ginger beer 5 cloves 5 black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 4-6 large potatoes, peeled and cut into chunky chips 3 tbsp vegetable or rapeseed oil 2 tbsp Caribbean spice mix, plus a pinch 1 tbsp treacle ½ lime, juiced 1…

‘Mexican food is extremely diverse – there are over 30 states in Mexico and each state is very different to the next. We all eat tacos but the adobos, salsas or marinades vary according to where you’re from. Even the tortillas vary: for example, the north of Mexico uses more flour tortillas than the rest of Mexico (where corn is prevalently used). Another differentiation in north from south is the heat, and there are places where, for example, a fresh jalapeño becomes a chipotle once it is smoked – most people know what a jalapeño is yet have never heard of chipotle chillies. In Mexican cooking, meat is marinated and slow cooked until falling off the bone.’ Born in Mexico, Edson worked as a chef in New York before moving…

Miriam Nice is a published author and illustrator. She has written over 300 recipes for BBC Good Food. @miriamjsnice “One of the first cookery books I was ever given was a kids’ microwave cookbook, so for me, the microwave represents my independence in the kitchen. I still remember my sense of pure pride bringing out a carefully made dish of microwaved gammon and pineapple rings or a canned tuna bake topped with crisps. I was probably about 10. Then, when our kitchen was being gutted, the only thing we had was a microwave plugged in under the armchair in the living room. I found it great fun to climb underneath the chair, armed with an oven glove, to retrieve a homemade sausage casserole amid the chaos and tarpaulin. Here are…

“I’m all-or-nothing – I will either eat all the chocolate or none of it” We’ve all been there and I certainly am always battling myself. Working long hours, and with food, means that I often feel I need sugar and caffeine just to stay on top of things. I am guilty of it and lots of us grown-ups are guilty of putting ourselves second where food is concerned. We’re not always good at thinking about what goes past our lips. I know when I am elbow-deep in recipe testing and knee-deep in laundry, all I wants is a bag of chips, a cup of tea and a bar of chocolate – and when I’m that busy, I have zero time for exercise. This is when life feels like it is…

Sesame prawn & smacked cucumber rice noodles SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY 1/2 cucumber 1 fat clove garlic, crushed 1 red chilli, finely chopped (deseeded, if you prefer) 1 tbsp sesame oil 3 tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 tsp low-sodium soy sauce pinch of sugar 100g rice noodles 160g frozen peas 160g frozen podded edamame beans 180g raw king prawns 160g mangetout 2 pak choi, white parts sliced and leaves left whole 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp sesame seeds 1 Lightly smack the cucumber with a rolling pin until it begins to break, then cut into pieces. Put in a sieve, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and leave to sit for 10 mins to draw out some of the moisture. To make the marinade,…

September is a wonderfully abundant month when it comes to ingredients, as the last of the summer gluts leave us with an enviable larder. These recipes make the most of the season’s ripe stone fruit, tomatoes and beetroots – a buttery pie crust bubbling with molten peaches; a lazy traybake pasta sauce made with end-of-season tomatoes and a sea bass dish that celebrates the last of the courgettes. Peach Melba pie Peach Melba is a dessert named after opera singer Nellie Melba by the renowned chef Escoffier who created it for her when he was at the Savoy. Unsurprisingly, he was on to a winner with the combo of peaches and raspberries which also works beautifully in a pie. A brilliant way of using up raspberries that are a little…

Growing up in the United States, my childhood Asian food experiences were, sadly, limited to Americanised Chinese (aka chop suey and egg rolls). It wasn’t until I began travelling to Asia in the early 1990s that I discovered the staggering deliciousness of authentic Asian cooking. In this new world I became acquainted with all-stars like karaage fried chicken, pho, potsticker dumplings and ramen. It wasn’t just the hot-salty-sour punch I fell for, but the multitude of textures. From blistering curries to pillow-soft bao, I was spoilt for choice. After each trip I aspired to conquer my favourite dishes, balancing flavours and learning new techniques. Successfully cooking this legendary cuisine isn’t magic: you just need solid guidance and the right ingredients. Pork skewers (mu ping) with palm sugar glaze & jaew…

A former Victorian pub, the Marksman is an amalgam of a classic British pub and upscale dining room. Downstairs there’s glossy wood, leather banquettes and a fully stocked bar with enough reasonably priced beers on tap to keep locals happy; and upstairs, a colourful and modern dining space brilliantly lit by natural light and with an upholstered ceiling that softens the acoustics. Chef-owners Jon Rotheram and Tom Harris make the most of excellently sourced meat and fish, married with veg grown locally with care, like the beef rump and tomato recipe on page 100, as well as a little urban foraging which is most evident in the jars of flavoured syrups and vodka behind the bar. The meat-filled buns are famous, as is the Sunday lunch with roast chicken, roast…

William These well-flavoured, tubby pears look good served whole or halved, making them great for poaching or roasting, and their succulence makes them ideal for juicing. They bruise easily and go from ripe to past-it quickly, so use as soon as you can. Conference The most commonly stocked variety, these long, speckled pears are the easiest to store and transport, but this doesn’t make for the juiciest or most fragrant. Good as an all-rounder but best used slightly under-ripe in salads, grated through a stu ing or made into a chutney. Comice This late-season pear is the best ‘eater’ of the lot. In its prime, it’s juicy to the point of being messy to eat, with a nectar-sweet, floral flavour. Simply eat as is or use its juiciness to your…

1 Heat a dry frying pan and add the coriander and cumin seeds. Toast until they begin to colour and release their aromas. Remove from the heat, then grind to a powder using a pestle and mortar. Wrap the shrimp paste in foil and in the same dry pan, ‘toast’ the foil package for 2 mins on each side. 2 Pound the garlic using a pestle and mortar, then add the shallots, coriander, chillies, galangal, turmeric and lemongrass. Finally, add the shrimp paste and ground spices and pound to a smoothish paste. Alternatively, whizz everything in a small blender or mini chopper in the same order or, for the best and easiest results, half pound in a pestle and mortar, then finish in the chopper. The recipe makes double so…

For a meal in minutes, microwave ovens are hard to beat (see page 52) but how do you choose the one that’s right for you? Here are our picks of the best on the market. BEST MULTI-PURPOSE 1 Sharp combination microwave oven £206.10 amazon.co.uk The largest model we tried, this has a built-in grill and a combination oven – we crisped up some bacon beautifully and produced a perfect Victoria sponge. It can be either countertop or built-in, but at 40 litres it counts as a main unit. BEST FOR SPACE SAVING 2 Wilko copper- effect microwave £70 wilko.com Despite being the smallest we tried, it still offers five power settings, an express button and the option to delay the cooking start time. In a trendy…

“ Even though we were broke, we always had a Sunday roast” Shirley, 57, of BBC One primetime dance contest fame, is one of the most decorated ballroom and Latin dancers in the world. Nicknamed the Queen of Latin, she won the British Open to the World Latin American Championships with her first husband Sammy Stopford and took the title twice with her second husband, Corky Ballas. Shirley retired from competitive dancing in 1996 and became an internationally renowned coach and adjudicator. She replaced Len Goodman as head judge on Strictly last year. We lived on the Leasowe housing estate (on the Wirral) and I was eligible for free school dinners. The other kids laughed at me but all I could think was, ‘I’m getting a…

Migrateful This organisation works with asylum seekers. Every week they hold a chef training group that teaches the refugees cookery skills, improves their English, and offers them a support network. When they feel ready, they’re invited to teach their own class to paying customers. As these refugees can’t officially work, they’re paid in travelcards or food boxes – but the real bonus is the improvement in language and confidence from meeting members of their new community. migrateful.org Chios People’s Kitchen The Greek island of Chios has 4,000 permanent refugees living either in camps, detention centres or on the streets. It’s run by the refugees, which empowers them to support their neighbours, and supplies vegan meals for children and toddlers. The project is a great example of refugees living successfully alongside…

“People have to use food banks handing out packaged food when so much fresh produce is wasted” Around 40 per cent of the fruit and vegetables farmers grow doesn’t make it to our shelves. Whether it’s a lump, an irregular shape, or a variation in colour or texture, they don’t conform to our large food retailers’ pernickety cosmetic requirements. In 2015, celebrity chefs Jamie Oliver and Jimmy Doherty highlighted this food waste scandal, and last year the chairman of the government’s Environment, Food and Rural Affairs Committee, Neil Parish, took supermarkets to task for not selling enough ‘wonky veg’, the term now used to describe the four out of every 10 vegetables and fruit deemed sub-standard by retailers because they don’t fit their nitpicking technical specifications. ‘It’s ridiculous that perfectly…

1 La Banchina One of the best restaurants in Copenhagen, La Bachina (https://www.labanchina.dk) is a hidden gem located in the industrial harbour and may just offer the city’s most idyllic setting for dinner in the former gate house of the shipyard. It also features a wood-fired sauna and a long pier where locals sunbathe, drink wine and swim in summer. Inside, seasonal set menus offer simple Italian and Danish dishes, plus natural wines, beers, and pastries. Four-course menu from £45. 2 Amass Equally hidden and almost next door to La Banchina in a huge gallery-like space is Amass (amassrestaurant.com), a high-end yet relaxed restaurant committed to sustainable, zero-waste practices. It also boasts its own garden growing vegetables, berries, and herbs. Founded by Noma alumnus Matt Orlando in 2013, the creative…

@prillypics April made our August cover recipe – little buttermilk cheesecakes with honey roast summer fruits. Gorgeous! @hannahbaugh_nutritionist We love the vibrant colours in Hannah’s version of our one-pan cod, chorizo & chickpeas (July). @nomeanfeast Megan made our next-level one-pan paella (July) and it looks seriously good! @whipupastorm We are seriously impressed with Emma’s version of our geometric tropical tart (July) – wow! #bbcgoodfood WAYS TO SHARE Write to BBC Good Food , BBC Studios, Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, London W12 7FA Email goodfoodmagazine@bbc.com  Find us on social media @bbcgoodfood and tag us #bbcgoodfood…

Broccoli coffee Made using broccoli powder and coffee, this trend comes from Australia. Every two tablespoons contains roughly one serving of broccoli, including fibre, vitamin B6 and vitamin E – for those who don’t eat their greens. Spiced drinks We’ve noticed a huge rise in spiced drinks, from cocktails to soft drinks. Think chilli & ginger Margaritas, habanero pisco sours and Jalepeño mojitos as well as soft drinks flavoured with ginger and cayenne. Camel milk From nut or oat to goat s, the past few years have seen a variety of milks on the market. The latest? Camel milk. It’s been drunk for centuries in North Africa and the Middle East, but now you can buy it in the UK, in selected Asda stores. Baobab Noted for its high levels…

CELEBRITY MASTERCHEF This must surely be one of the tightest fought series yet. Challenges facing this year’s semi-finalists include creating a classy dinner at Hever Castle, a feast for the Antiques Roadshow experts and having to go back in time as cooks at the Black Country Living Museum. Continues on BBC One. SATURDAY KITCHEN LIVE Matt Tebbutt is back with the live shows in September along with show regular Tom Kitchin and Swedish chef Niklas Ekstedt. Great British Menu judge Andi Oliver takes the reins on 15 September and the Hairy Bikers host on the last weekend of the month. Saturdays at 10am on BBC One. Kathryn Custance…

Emily’s raspberry & chocolate jam Perfect on a croissant, this raspberry & dark chocolate jam is one of many unusual preserves by Worcester-based Emily’s Jams and Pickles. There’s also orange & chocolate marmalade or lime & chocolate jelly. £1.50, (100g), emilysjams. co.uk Yasmin’s succulent tandoori salmon spice mix Scotia Spice products couldn’t be easier to use and they lend incredible depth of flavour. This is a handmade spice blend with a recipe card to make tandoori salmon for 4 people. £3.95, scotiaspice.co.uk Oppo Sicilian lemon cheesecake This little cheesecake is the perfect size for an after-dinner treat. It’s super zingy with a cinnamon crumb – and only 159 cals per pot. £2, (75g), Sainsbury’s Sacla nduja pesto Nduja is one of my new favourite ingredients, but it can…

We love spices, but often find the spice shelf in need of a purge after buying endless blends on top of the single spices we use everyday. In light of this, we’ve created special spice mixes inspired by some of our favourite cuisines. You can make them from spices you already have in your cupboards, and use them in lots of other dishes (which we’ve given you ideas for). The flavour of a home-toasted spice mix is superior to most ready-made varieties, but they’re at their best when just-blended and you’ll need to use before they lose their flavour.…

2 tbsp paprika 4 tsp garlic powder 4 tsp cayenne pepper 2 tsp ground black pepper 2 tsp onion powder 1 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp dried oregano Cajun fried shrimp These crispy spiced shrimps are completely addictive. Fry up a batch and get the beer on ice for an informal dinner with friends. Sophie Godwin, cookery writer SERVES 4 as an appetiser PREP 10-20 mins (depending on if you are de-shelling your own prawns) COOK 20 mins EASY 500g extra-large raw king prawns (the biggest raw king prawns in the supermarket are often in the frozen section), defrost thoroughly, peel if needed, then pat dry with kitchen paper – if buying from a fishmonger, ask them to peel and de-vein them for you 1 tbsp hot &…

Caribbean food evokes colour, flamboyancy and fusion, being a truly multicultural cuisine that meshes together African, Indian, European and more flavours from every corner of the planet. The key herbs – thyme, chive and coriander – are often used as the base of a marinade for stews and curries. Key spices such as allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger are pungent, heady and also commonplace in marinades. Tamarind enhances our food with a sour, sweet and tangy note. Another flavour that can’t be missed out is the Scotch bonnet. As vividly coloured as it is powerful, it’s an intense chilli pepper that, unbeknown to many, can be used whole to impart a sweet, rich flavour without the chilli hit in sauces, stews and curries. There’s no denying, there’s nothing subtle about…

Smoky Mexican spice mix Roasted sweet potato wedges SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V * Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut 3 sweet potatoes into wedges, leaving the skin on. Put on a large baking tray, coat in 2 tbsp oil and 2 tsp smoky Mexican spice mix. Roast for 35-40 mins or until cooked through. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 200 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 32g • sugars 17g • fibre 5g • protein 2g • salt 1.0g Hot & herby Cajun spice mix Cajun hollandaise SERVES 2 PREP 2 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V Substitute 1 tsp Cajun spice mix for the cayenne pepper and salt in our dead…

Slow cooker stroganoff Stroganoff usually a quick-cook cut of beef, such as fillet or sirloin. This version is not only lighter on the wallet, it’s full of flavour. Serve with pasta, rice or mashed potato. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 5-8 hrs 30 mins EASY * 750g stewing steak, such as chuck, cut into strips 1 tbsp vegetable or rapeseed oil, plus a little more if needed 2 onions, halved and sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 beef stock cube, or 1 tbsp liquid stock 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 50g butter 200g chestnut mushrooms, halved 2 tsp cornflour 200g soured cream small bunch parsley, chopped tagliatelle or mashed potato and a pinch of paprika, to serve 1 Turn on the slow cooker. Season the beef. Heat the oil in…

Moroccan lamb burgers Get a quick fix of spicy, fruity flavours with these simple-to-make burgers. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY 1 onion, roughly chopped 2 ½cm piece ginger, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped handful fresh coriander 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp cinnamon 75g ready-to-eat dried apricots, roughly chopped 500g lean lamb mince wholemeal rolls, lettuce, sliced tomatoes sliced red onion and mayonnaise, to serve 1 Blend the onion, ginger, garlic and coriander in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the spices, apricots, lamb and seasoning. Blend until slightly chunky. 2 Shape the lamb mixture into six burgers. Cook under a medium-hot grill for 4-5 mins each side until cooked through. 3 Serve in wholemeal buns with the lettuce,…

Rules I live by to be productive at work and together as a mum are: Always prep lunch the night before – if you are caught short, you are more likely to make a bad lunch choice. Set the alarm to get out of bed at least an hour before you normally would, especially if you struggle to get out of bed. Not being rushed and feeling relaxed allows you to make better choices in the morning. Have breakfast and try to carry a healthy snack with you to make sure that, if you get a pang, you can sate it without guilt. Always carry water with you. When you’re thinking you need a caffeine hit, you may just be thirsty. Don’t feel bad if you have a bar of…

You can get any ingredient you want these days. Sometimes I surf the pages of souschef.co.uk (probably the best single source of the exotic) and wonder what you do with some of the foods they sell. I’m always willing to try the new but sweet potato starch, preserved radish, anardana powder? I’ve never used any of these. Soy sauce, though, has had a place in British kitchens for decades. In the 1970s, when I started to get interested in what was in my mum’s cupboards, I could find Fern’s curry paste (rich and dark and smelling of spice and fruit) and soy sauce. The soy sauce was hardly ever used – though I tried to make egg fried rice one night, ending up with something like scrambled eggs with rice…

Breakfast fatigue: it happens to all of us. Despite being the most important meal of the day, it can sometimes get a bit samey, especially during the week. Bonne Maman’s Breakfast Compotes add a breath of fresh air to everyday breakfast dishes such as granola and yogurt or muesli, as well as overnight oats if you’re on the go. They’re available in three flavours – whole dark cherry, luscious apricot, and subtly tart and sweet rhubarb. Much lighter and juicer than a jam or marmalade, they are full of ripe, whole fruits, so keep in the fridge once opened as they are not a preserve. Bonne Maman Breakfast Compotes are available nationwide in Waitrose and Sainsbury’s, as well as from Ocado. Just look for the green gingham lids! If you…

S’mores dip MAKES 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 7 mins EASY Melt 200g milk chocolate, 2 tbsp milk and 200g mini marshmallows in an ovenproof frying pan over a low heat. Cover with 150g mini marshmallows. Grill on high for 1-2 mins. Serve with digestives and fruit skewers for dunking. PER SERVING 349 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 6g • carbs 58g • sugars 44g • fibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g Mini honey & mustard dogs  MAKES 12 PREP 5 mins COOK 18 mins EASY Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cook 12 raw cocktail sausages on a baking tray for 12 mins. Mix 1 tbsp grainy mustard with 1 tbsp runny honey. Brush half over the sausages and return to the oven for 4-5 mins,…

‘The whole point behind pickling and preserving vegetables and fruit is to capture them at their best and extend the season for as long as you want to play with it throughout the year’ 1 PICKLING OR FERMENTING? Pickled produce brings acidity to a dish and fermented brings salt, so it’s all about balance, what you serve them with and how you want the dish seasoned. Both methods are straightforward, but an easy pickle can be as simple as some sliced red onion steeped in vinegar and a touch of sugar for a few minutes to soften. Health-wise, pickled foods don’t hold the same benefits as fermented. 2 SAFETY FIRST The most important thing, whichever recipe you go with, is that your jars need to be properly sterilised. You can…

When you hear the word cider, do you start humming I Am a Cider Drinker by The Wurzels? Or perhaps it brings back memories you’d rather forget of teenage misadventures. You probably aren’t thinking of something elegant and complex that comes in a champagne bottle and tastes best drunk from a wine glass with food, rather than knocked back in pints. It’s going back a bit but cider (or cyder, if you prefer) used to be a high status drink. In the 17th century cider made from Redstreak, a West Country apple variety, fetched more per barrel than madeira and beat wines in tasting competitions. English gentlemen scientists were experimenting with sparkling cider before anyone, least of all the French, thought to do the same with wine. As recently as…

Your food heaven? Black pudding. And I’m also a Haribo freak – I often have one in my mouth when I’m on Strictly. And hell? Haggis. Favourite celebrity chef? Gordon Ramsay. Describe yourself in three words: Dedicated, hardworking, funny. Your ideal weekend? Spending time with my family and the people I love. Dream dinner party guests? Oprah, Freddie Mercury, Walt Disney, Karen Carpenter, Michael Jackson, Johnny Cash (so my mother could sit next to him), Elton John, Frank Sinatra and Elvis. What did you have for breakfast today? Just half an avocado because I have red-carpet events coming up and I’m trying to get into my dresses – I’ve gained 5lb. Favourite tipple? A brandy and one ice cube. Finish this sentence……

This has been a terrible year for British restaurants. Soaring business and food costs and a drop in how regularly people eat out has left an oversaturated market floundering. Last year, insolvencies were up 20 per cent, and, according to financial experts Begbies Traynor, around 11,000 restaurants are now in ‘significant’ financial distress. The headline victims of this have been national chains such as Byron, Jamie’s Italian and Carluccio’s, whose closures and rescue deals have been hot news. ourindependent arebattling similar pressures. This year, a number of acclaimed local heroes, such as the Michelin-listed Deeson’s in Canterbury (‘Passion, unfortunately, does not pay the bills.’) and Harrogate’s Norse, have closed. More closures will follow, particularly if we don’t do our bit. In theory, we all crave high-street diversity and flourishing independents,…

BBC Children in Need will return to BBC One for its 39th Appeal Show on 16 November – and this year BBC Good Food is supporting the charity by encouraging our readers to raise money by cooking a specially-created menu for family and friends by our star chef Tom Kerridge. Since the charity started in 1980, the public have raised more than £950 million for disadvantaged children and young people across the UK, currently funding over 2,700 projects. See where the money you raise for BBC Children in Need is spent in your area by visiting bbc.co.uk/Pudsey. Don’t miss the next issue of BBC Good Food , on sale 20 September, where you’ll find Tom Kerridge’s menu and more about how you can #donatefordinner…

1 Wonky Veg Boxes delivers weekly/fortnightly veg boxes and fruit bags that you can customise to exclude what you don’t want. wonkyvegboxes.co.uk 2 Morrisons’ Wonky Veg Box includes carrots, onions, potatoes, parsnips plus a minimum of three of the following: cabbage, cauliflower, swede, leeks, peppers. 3 Riverford Organic trials and tests seeds to find the most flavoursome vegetable varieties. Its veg boxes are 100% organic and seasonal. riverford.co.uk/wonky-veg Do you agree with Joanna? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter #bbcgfopinion…

The New Forest Best for pannage pork and woodland walks Mellow yellow autumn arrives in the New Forest with crops of sun-ripe squash, russet apples golden carpets of acorns, beech mast and chestnuts. The latter makes for supremely pretty if inconveniently poisonous windfall, at least for the forest’s free-roaming ponies. The solution, since 1079 when William the Conqueror founded the forest as a royal hunting ground, has been to put local pigs out to pannage – to forage for this autumnal fodder which will fatten them up to produce a tender, sweet meat that equates to prized Ibérico pork. Common practice across the country for centuries, it’s now unique to the New Forest, and hikers in this preserved part of rural Hampshire get a kick out of finding piggies rootling…

Llangoed Hall Llangoed Hall is a true country house hotel, providing an idyllic location for weddings, lunches, afternoon teas and special occasions. Head Chef Nick Brodie’s award-winning cuisine has flair and imagination and only the finest local produce is used to create outstanding gourmet dishes. Following Nick’s appearance on The Great British Menu, pop in to sample one of his delicious creations. eventsmanager@llangoedhall.com llangoedhall.com • 01874 754525 Six Generations of Risotto Rice Riso Gallo brings you the best Italian Risotto Rice selected from the rice fields of the Po Valley, motherland of Risotto and Risotto Rice. Gran Gallo traditional risotto rice has a plump stubby grain and a high starch content, which give it a perfect balance of creaminess and bite, making it ideal for a perfect risotto. www.risogallo.co.uk…

Each month, we ask a Good Food fan to recommend a great place to eat or shop in their area. This month, Emma Barnes recommends Tabure restaurant in Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire ( tabure.co.uk ) This modern Turkish kitchen offers delicious, affordable tapas dishes. Chef’s specials include braised octopus and harissa beef koftas – perfect for sharing with friends. I love the walnut and elderflower baklava to finish, it’s the perfect way to complete your traditional Turkish dining experience! Know a great place to eat? Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using # gfeatsout…

Pear & chocolate flapjack crumble SERVES 4-6 PREP 10 mins plus cooling COOK 30 mins EASY V 2 x 400g cans pear halves in syrup 100g butter 100g golden syrup 300g porridge oats 100g bar dark chocolate, chopped 1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Drain the pears (keeping the syrup) and cut each half in half. Tip into a dish or ovenproof pan about 22cm across. Drizzle 2-3 tbsp of the syrup from the can over them. 2 Melt the butter and syrup in a saucepan, then stir in the oats and a pinch of salt. Quickly mix in the chocolate, but don’t let it melt. Tip the mixture over the pears. 3 Bake for 30 mins until golden and crisp. Cool for 5 mins before serving with…